A waste oil furnace is best option for heating warehouses, garages, and work spaces. The result of using such a stove combines good heating and low cost of fuel used. Used oil (“waste oil”) refers to those types of waste that are available in large quantities at any service station or garage. Such oil is difficult to recycle and almost impossible to dispose of.
Waste oil stoves are exactly the way to reuse this product. Any used oil - transmission, motor, industrial - can serve as fuel on which such homemade heating installations will operate.
Thanks to its design, the exhaust furnace can be made by hand. The undoubted advantages of this type of heating include:
At the same time, there are some problems associated with the operation of heating stoves running on oil. These include the need to install a high chimney, up to 4 meters high, as well as systematic weekly cleaning of the stove from dirt and soot.
In order to assemble a furnace for mining with your own hands, you do not need to buy new metal products. You can use scrap metal, which is found in almost every garage. For example, a compressor housing from a refrigerator or any old cylinder can serve as a prototype for the manufacture of a combustion chamber.
You will also need two thin-walled pipes about 4 m long and 8-10 cm in diameter. They will play the role of the main and additional radiators. Another pipe is needed for exhaust. An approximate drawing of a single chamber oil furnace is given below:
During operation, waste oil furnaces must be in a vertical position. To do this, you need to make legs - pieces of pipes or corners are suitable for this. Identical pieces of metal about 20 cm long need to be welded to the body of the future stove. After this, we install the homemade heating device in a vertical position.
We cut a hole in the upper part of the stove for the hood. In size it must correspond to the radius of the prepared pipe.
You can try to drill out a small cutout with a grinder, but it is better to make a hole with a larger diameter using a welding machine.
We weld the exhaust pipe. We make holes in the pipe body. For this work, you can use a grinder with a cutting wheel. The holes are made at a distance of 10 cm from the body and up to 0.5 m high. In the same pipe, at a distance of one meter, we make a cut into the second pipe - for an additional radiator. This work can be done with a welding machine. An additional radiator is located parallel to the floor, along the wall. At the top of the homemade stove we make a hole for supplying fuel.
This is the simplest version of the stove, which can be improved and made convenient and safe. For example, put a sheet of iron on a horizontal radiator - then the exhaust furnace can be used not only for heating, but also for heating water and cooking.
The furnace diagram consists of two chambers connected to each other by a piece of large diameter pipe with drilled holes.
The lower half will be a container for waste oil, which will be used as fuel. At the same time it will be both a combustion chamber and an evaporator. An approximate drawing of such an installation is provided below:
Two-chamber waste oil stoves must have legs. Air gap between the floor and the bottom of the stove will serve as an additional factor that improves heating of the room.
A hole must be made in the lower housing, covered with a damper, to adjust the operating mode and supply fuel to the chamber.
A pipe with holes is welded into the upper cover of the lower housing. This pipe will become an afterburning chamber in which steam from boiling oil will burn. This design scheme can ensure almost complete combustion of fuel.
To the top heating system a heated cylindrical body is welded. There should be a partition inside it to trap warm combustion products.
The chimney pipe is welded to the upper surface of the heating module. The diameter of such a pipe should be more than 100 mm, length - 3-4 m. The chimney should be placed vertically or at an angle.
The chimney must be positioned strictly vertically and with access to the street - this is the only way to avoid spontaneous extinguishing of an oil stove.
The chimney drawing shows that this part of the heating system should be collapsible - this will make it easier to clean it from dirt and soot.
For continuous operation oil system heating, it is necessary to ensure an uninterrupted supply of fuel to the furnace body. To do this, you can weld an additional container just above the evaporator chamber, which will be connected to it by a separate metal pipe.
You can increase the efficiency of the stove, for example, by forcing the air flow to the top of the stove. To do this, the diagram changes slightly: on the upper compartment heating device an air heating chamber is installed. A fan is installed next to it at a safe distance.
With the help of such a fan, air is pumped into the air exchanger, heated there and supplied to the heated room.
The basic drawing of the stove can be improved: for example, a heating boiler with a water circuit can be made on its basis. This way you can heat several rooms in one building.
Oil does not burn on its own. To start the reaction, you need to throw a highly flammable “seed” into it. In the fuel compartment, about a glass of gasoline, alcohol or solvent is poured over the used oil. Using a wick on a long base, the seed is set on fire. When the “seed” burns, a certain amount of heat is released, which is necessary for the oil to boil.
When boiling, the oil evaporates. Hot oil vapor enters the afterburner pipe, which produces a stable column of fire in the pipe. 5-10 minutes after heating, the oven reaches a stable operating mode. Using a blower-damper, you can determine the intensity of heating and the heating power as a whole.
Do not use flammable liquids as the main fuel. Gasolines or solvent are intended only to start the combustion process and are used in small quantities. In order to effectively use the heating system, you need to use only clean waste oil as fuel. Even a small admixture of water leads to sudden foaming of the oil, its release to the surface, after which a fire may occur.
Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the quality of the fuel and have a fire extinguisher nearby. An oil stove should not be used in rooms with strong drafts - this leads to the flame extinguishing in the stove. In order to re-ignite it, you will need to wait until the device case has completely cooled down.
Stoves during mining should not be left unattended, as when optimal mode During operation, its surface heats up to 800°C - this can ignite objects located nearby. After finishing work, you need to wait until the oven cools down to an acceptable temperature.
Often for a car enthusiast there is a problematic situation with proper disposal used motor oil, diesel fuel and other flammable elements from vehicle components and components. So why not use the waste to heat your own garage, especially since you can get it for free, and the pollution for environment minimal. All that remains is to make a stove that consumes this type of fuel with your own hands. Among car owners, this type of garage stove is quite well known and widely used.
The use of such stoves is typical for garages, utility rooms, country houses and other premises, mostly of a technical and economic nature, which do not require any special cleanliness and aesthetics.
In general, liquid fuel stoves perform their purpose perfectly, but just like other types of stoves, they have their own characteristics, including advantages and disadvantages.
The fuel for furnaces that consume liquid fuel is diesel fuel or used motor oil. Furnaces using diesel fuel are produced mainly industrially, although there are quite good home-made samples, while those working on mining are made handicraft in ordinary garage conditions. For self-production, a furnace using waste is best suited due to the ease of construction and low cost of materials, since the materials for the furnace can be pieces of pipes of various diameters or sheets of metal in the case of rectangular tanks. It is also possible to use old propane cylinders.
The design consists of two tanks connected to each other by a perforated pipe. The upper tank has an offset relative to the vertical axis of the lower one. It is best to use a cylindrical shape for the tanks used, but in practice rectangular tanks are very often used and performance does not suffer at all from this. To give the working vertical position on the floor of the room, the design provides legs. Schematic structure of the furnace in the figure below:
The fuel combustion system in the stove operates on the principle of pyrolysis - burning fuel vapors. Since the flash point of motor oil is relatively high, its complete combustion requires heating it to form vapors, which are subsequently burned in the oven. To achieve this result, in bottom tank filtered waste is poured through the filling hole, filling it halfway and igniting. To quickly ignite the oil, add a few grams of gasoline or solvent into the filling hole.
During the combustion of gasoline, the oil heats up and begins to evaporate from the surface, then the vapors ignite in the afterburning chamber, and the temperature of the furnace goes into the operating mode of pyrolysis combustion. In the fuel tank, which also serves as a firebox, oil is directly burned. The air required for primary combustion is taken in through the filling hole. An air damper is provided to regulate the combustion process. With the throttle fully open, the oil consumption will be about 2 liters. per hour, while in slow burning mode to maintain operating temperature about 0.5–0.7 l. at one o'clock.
A self-made furnace for mining is equipped with a vertical perforated pipe for the supply of air, which is necessary for the pyrolysis combustion process. The oil vapors that get into the pipe, mixed with the incoming air, burn in it, as well as partially in the upper tank. Next, combustion products bypass the partition and are removed through the chimney from the room.
We will focus on finished drawing furnaces from pipe sections, since this material is the most accessible. The first step is to study the finished drawing and calculate the amount of material needed to make an oil stove. If the exact diameters indicated in the drawing are not available, this is not critical, the main thing is the approximate size ratio. I advise you to print out the drawing so that you always have it at hand when assembling the stove.
The material for the cylinders in this example is a disused propane cylinder, but lengths of metal pipes other diameters.
To complete the work you will need the following tools:
The installation location should be selected based on the location of windows and doors and the stove should be located in the corner opposite to them. It is also worth paying attention to the convenience of venting the chimney outside. Taken together, these parameters for selecting a location for the stove play a role main role. It is recommended to make reflectors on the walls from sheet metal or galvanized steel to improve heat transfer into the room and ensure fire safety. Don't forget about fire safety. When installing the stove in a room with a wooden floor, you should lay a sheet of tin over the installation site. For a concrete floor, it is also worth making such a bedding, since when filling oil into the tank there is a high probability of spilling it, and on concrete floor such traces can no longer be removed. This is where a sheet of tin helps us out, because it won’t be difficult to wipe off spilled waste from it with an unnecessary rag.
Welding elements together should be done as follows: first we go through the entire length of the joint using spot tacks in increments of 3–4 cm, then only weld the joint completely. Be sure to ensure that the seam is welded properly, otherwise oil will seep into even a microscopic crack.
The tank is made collapsible and consists of two parts for easy cleaning of carbon deposits. Next, we assemble the tank lid from a piece of pipe and a cut out circle of metal with two holes for the filling hole and the afterburner. The outer diameter of the pipe section for the lid should be slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the tank, thanks to this the lid will close it freely.
We weld the lid by placing it on the top of the oven.
All that remains is to weld the pipe for the chimney outlet. A piece of pipe with a diameter of 10–12 cm and a length of 13 cm is perfect for its role. To complete the entire structure, you need to weld a steel bar between the upper and lower tanks, thus ensuring additional rigidity of the structure. After completing all welding work, the welded seams must be cleaned with a grinder with a cleaning disk to remove burrs and sharp edges, so as not to get injured during further operation of the furnace. The upper part can also be made collapsible by making it by analogy with an oil tank.
Upon completion of assembly, be sure to check all welded seams for leaks using a soap solution and feeding compressed air in the oven cavity.
By analogy, you can make a furnace from sheet steel with the only difference being that the number of parts and welding operations will slightly increase. Therefore, describing it separately does not make practical sense. Below is a drawing for a sheet steel stove:
Before igniting the stove, you first need to fill it with at least half a tank of waste and add a few grams of gasoline or solvent on top. Typically, heating to operating temperature takes no more than five minutes. You need to wrap a piece of paper on a piece of long wire to make a kind of wick, set it on fire, and carefully ignite the gasoline through the hole for filling the waste. Gasoline heats the oil to the temperature of evaporation of flammable substances, where they then ignite. A stable combustion of oil vapor is formed in the perforated pipe. The intensity of combustion is regulated by covering or opening the filling hole, from where air is blown directly.
No matter how reliable your stove may seem, you should not forget and always follow the basic fire safety rules:
In our case, only the lower tank will undergo regular cleaning, since unburned components and soot settle there. To clean the tank, just remove the top part and access is open. It is best to clean the walls with a hard metal object like a spatula or a metal brush. After cleaning, the walls can be washed without big amount gasoline and then dry. We put the entire structure in its place and you can use the stove again.
A stove using liquid fuel, in particular using waste motor oil, is no more difficult to manufacture than a conventional wood-burning stove, and in some ways even simpler. Any person who has welding skills and has worked with metal is able to assemble it in his garage, one might say, on his knee. In the cold season, such a stove will always be a lifesaver in the garage or at the dacha.
It's always nice to put waste materials to good use. And if it concerns fuel and heating, it is also very profitable. A striking example is heating stoves on used oil. They can use any oil that can burn. Transmission, diesel, machine, confectionery, vegetable... Really any. There are no problems with fuel for such units. What they found, they filled it in. Moreover, a do-it-yourself furnace for mining is also made from waste materials: an old gas or oxygen cylinder, sections of pipes of different diameters or pieces of metal.
If you simply set fire to any used oil, it will smoke mercilessly and “smell” even more intensely. Therefore, direct combustion is not used. First, volatile substances are evaporated, then they are burned. This is the basic principle of design development. Therefore, in some versions, the stove has two combustion chambers connected by a tube in which holes are made.
In the lower chamber, the fuel is heated and evaporated. Combustible vapors rise upward. Passing through a pipe with holes, they mix with oxygen dissolved in the air. Already in the upper part of this pipe the mixture ignites and burns out in the second chamber. Moreover, the combustion of vapors occurs with the release of much more heat and less smoke. At the right technology There is practically no smoke, as well as soot.
The second method of separating “heavy” fuel (oil of any origin) into “flammable” components is more effective, but also more difficult to implement. For efficient evaporation, a metal bowl is installed in the lower chamber. It heats up, and drops of waste falling on it instantly turn into volatile flammable vapors. In this case, the glow is obtained (at correct mode) white-blue, as when plasma burns. This is where another name for this design comes from - with a plasma bowl.
To achieve the greatest efficiency of fuel combustion, waste oil must be fed into the lower chamber very in small portions. In some variants - drops, sometimes - in a thin stream. That is why this technology is called drip feed.
These are the basic principles of the “action” of homemade heating units. There are very a large number of their combinations and variations. Several of them are described below.
You can see an example of waste combustion in a plasma bowl in the video below. This is a Gecko mining furnace; it has a built-in water heater and can work as a heating boiler.
The main and main advantage is that spent fuel and oils are used, which would otherwise be disposed of. If the technology is followed, combustion is so complete that virtually no harmful emissions occur into the atmosphere. Other advantages are no less significant:
There are also serious disadvantages. And the main thing is that if the technology is not followed, fuel combustion occurs incompletely. And its vapors enter the room, and this is very dangerous. Therefore, the main and main requirement: furnaces operating on waste oil are installed exclusively in rooms with a ventilation system.
There are also disadvantages:
Due to these features, such units are rarely used for heating residential buildings. If they are installed, it is in separate rooms and in a modified form.
In its basic version, a homemade stove uses waste oil to heat the air. They are also called heat guns, heat generators or air heaters. It is rarely used in this form for heating residential premises: the air dries out and oxygen is burned off from the hot metal walls. But for maintaining normal temperature in production or technical premises, such units are very effective: they quickly raise the temperature. They can be seen at service stations, car washes, garages, production workshops where there are no flammable materials, in warehouses, greenhouses, etc.
Do-it-yourself furnaces - the best option for the garage
Many options can be modified: you can install a coil for heating water or make a water jacket. Such equipment already belongs to the category of water heating equipment and can be installed in a water heating system. Without automation, an exhaust furnace with a water circuit requires constant monitoring, but for a summer house, outbuildings with livestock, etc. this is a great option.
Today there are already more than a dozen different designs. They use different methods for extracting thermal energy and have different structures.
It is easier to make a stove if the body is already ready. As such, you can use a gas or oxygen cylinder, a thick-walled barrel or pipe. The diagram below explains how to make a waste oil stove from a pipe.
The operation of this unit is based on evaporation in a plasma bowl. It can produce up to 15 kW of heat (on average it can heat 150 square meters of area). Greater heat transfer due to any changes (furnace size or increased air supply) is impossible: the thermal regime will be disrupted and instead of more heat, you will get more fumes, and this is unsafe.
The assembly order is as follows:
After installing the oil tank, testing can begin. First, place some paper in the bowl and pour flammable liquid, everything is set on fire. After the paper is almost burned through, the oil supply opens.
It is not for nothing that this drawing of a waste oil furnace is given with such a precise indication of materials. These are the parts you need to use. As a result of the work homemade stove, with a consumption of 1-1.5 liters of fuel per hour, you can heat a room up to 150 “square meters”.
A furnace using waste oil from a cylinder (oxygen or gas) is presented by the author in the video. The design is similar to that described above, but with original modifications (and it is a little simpler)
This homemade stove, with its small size and weight (10 kg), fuel consumption of about 0.5 lira per hour, produces 5-6 kW of heat. You can melt it more, but you don’t need to: it might explode. The design is loved by car enthusiasts: the garage heats up quickly even in extreme cold, uses oil sparingly, and is also compact. That’s why it can be called “garage”.
The fuel tank of this little air gun is assembled from the bottom and top of a standard 50 liter gas cylinder. It turns out very reliable design(save at least one circular seam from the cylinder - there is an O-ring there that will give greater strength. You can make a tank from any other container similar sizes: with a diameter of 200-400 mm and a height of about 350 mm.
In addition to the fuel container, you need to make a pipe in which the fuel-air mixture is mixed. The wall thickness here is at least 4 mm. You can use a pipe suitable diameter. The cones are made from structural steel no thinner than 4 mm.
The dimensions of the waste oil furnace indicated in the drawing can be adjusted up or down, but only by 20 mm - no more. Particular care must be taken to weld the seams in the funnel areas: here the fuel-air mixture lingers for a long time, which is why the temperature is considerable.
The length of the chimney pipe is no more than 3.5 meters. Otherwise, due to too good traction, fuel will be pulled into the pipe, which will significantly increase consumption and reduce heat transfer.
The picture on the right shows a hot water version of a homemade stove. Around the top of the afterburning zone, several turns of a steel tube are made through which water is passed. To prevent the gas temperature from dropping too much, the coil is covered with a heat-reflecting steel casing. Cold water fed from below, passing in a spiral, heats up and goes into the system.
This option is very popular among summer residents and in garages. A convenient small stove, which is made with round or square combustion zones. The design is so successful that there is even industrial options. For example, one of the enterprises sells it under the name “Ritsa”. The diagram shows all the required dimensions.
Diagram of a waste oil furnace with dimensions - everything you need to make it yourself
A video report on how to assemble this stove will help you navigate the work order.
The video below shows an option with square containers, its filling and dimensions.
Furnaces operating on waste oil are not only made by handicraft methods, they are also produced by industry. Moreover, there are both imported and Russian. But their type of construction is different.
European or American waste boilers belong to the category of liquid fuel furnaces. They use the supercharging principle: oil is sprayed into small droplets and connected to the air flow. And the fuel-air mixture is ignited. Imported factory stoves use the same principle, only a special burner is installed in which the fuel is heated before spraying.
To appreciate the difference in technology and structure, watch the following video. The device is completely different.
Most Russian-made furnaces use the first principle - there is a hot (plasma) bowl in which liquid fuel turns into gaseous fuel, mixes with air and is burned. The following units are built according to this principle:
There are many models of furnaces that use waste oil. And below are several diagrams that may give you an idea, and if you bake your own oven, it will be effective, economical and safe.
Oxygen cylinder stove
Diagram of the Gecko stove
Waste oil stove "Typhoon"
A stove operating on waste oil, drawings, diagrams, photos, videos of the stove working during exhaust. DIY oil oven. How to cheaply heat a garage, box, workroom, cottage or greenhouse? Using a homemade stove running on waste oil.
Used motor oil can be said to be practically free fuel; every car enthusiast has it, and for workers at bus stations and motor transport enterprises it is not difficult to obtain waste. You can heat a room for practically pennies, if you can get used oil, oil consumption is 1 liter per hour of furnace operation.
The design of the furnace is extremely simple. The furnace consists of two chambers, which are connected by a piece of pipe to ventilation holes. The lower chamber is a container for fuel and also serves as an evaporator.
In the lower container there is a hole with a valve for filling oil and adjusting the air supply to the chamber.
A pipe with holes is welded vertically to the lower chamber; in fact, it is an afterburning chamber for burning boiling oil vapors. Air enters through the holes to keep the flame burning.
An air exchanger chamber with internal partition, which retains heat, thereby allowing oil vapors to completely burn, and increases the heat transfer of the stove.
The upper chamber is connected to the chimney. You can learn how to properly make a chimney for a potbelly stove so that the stove does not smoke from this article.
How does the exhaust stove work?
Engine oil does not burn by itself, oil vapors burn, in order for the oil to begin to evaporate, you need to carry out the following steps:
Waste oil and a little gasoline (50 grams) are poured into the lower tank of the stove. Using a wick on a stick, the gasoline in the chamber is ignited through the hole.
When gasoline burns in the chamber, a large amount of heat is released, as a result the oil boils and forms vapors that ignite and burn in the pipe. When the gasoline in the chamber burns out, the stove will already work due to the heated oil, which releases flammable vapors.
You can watch the stove in action in this video.
Drawings of a waste oil stove.
The figure below shows drawings of a furnace operating on engine oil waste.
The oven can be improved so that you do not have to refuel the oven often; this process can be automated a little. An additional tank of larger capacity must be welded to the lower tank at the same level; as the oil burns in the chamber, the oil from the tank will flow through a pipe into the chamber.
Stove with additional capacity for oil.
When using a furnace using waste oil, safety precautions must be observed.
The stove itself is fireproof if you follow simple rules:
The oven should not be left unattended for long periods of time.
The connections on the chimney must be sealed.
A strong draft can cause a strong flame.
Avoid getting water into the oil, as this may cause hot oil to splash out of the reservoir.
In the room where the stove operates, there must be ventilation, or an open window, when burning oil vapors will be released harmful substances, they exit into the chimney; if the structure is damaged, harmful substances can enter the room.
To heat non-residential and technical premises, heating units operating on alternative types fuel. For example, a waste stove runs on used engine oil. Moreover, in addition to mining, many other types of fuel can be poured into it - this is fuel oil, vegetable oils, transmission oil and much more. The effectiveness of such stoves has been proven by the experience of numerous users. And having at your disposal a source of inexpensive fuel, you can provide yourself with heat for minimal money.
In this review of waste furnaces, we will cover:
A homemade stove using waste engine oil is characterized by simplicity of design and high efficiency. And low oil consumption will ensure minimal costs for heat generation.
A waste oil stove is good because it can operate on the lowest quality and cheapest fuel. In this regard, lucky are those who work as car repair technicians in own garage– by doing a scheduled replacement of engine oil, you can extract waste in almost unlimited quantities. The oil furnace itself is distinguished by its low cost, because it can be assembled from the remains of old iron.
Waste oil is very cheap look fuel, and for auto repair shops it is completely free.
The oil stove burns fuel to the maximum during exhaust in a safe way. If you set fire to used oil poured into any container, it will fume and smoke, giving rise to hellish aromas and filling heated rooms with acrid and far from safe smoke. And very little heat will be generated from such combustion. A waste oil furnace, having a well-thought-out design, burns fuel so that it does not form soot.
Depending on the design of the stove and its size, it can heat an area of up to 500 square meters. m. and even more. Oil consumption is scanty - it ranges from 0.5 to 5 l/hour, depending on the power of the unit. The combustion temperature reaches +400-500 degrees. The average chimney height is from 4 to 5 meters. Stoves can operate on both clean and contaminated fuel. The resulting heat can be used for a variety of purposes:
Thus, an exhaust furnace is a fairly universal heater with simple device, high efficiency and low cost.
Exhaust furnaces are divided into two large categories, based on the type of fuel decomposition into combustible components. Now we will tell you why it is necessary to decompose waste in general. As we have already said, in pure form it burns with the release of a minimal amount of heat, producing a huge amount of smoke and soot. Accordingly, such combustion is of little use. But if we heat fuel to a certain temperature, it will begin to disintegrate into its component fractions.
Scheme of operation of a pyrolysis furnace using waste oil as fuel.
The resulting components mix with oxygen in the air and form a flammable mixture. It burns at higher temperatures and does not form soot. If we look at the chimney, we will see that only a small amount of light smoke comes out of it. This smoke is also dangerous, but it goes outside our premises. And the desired warmth awaits us inside.
An oil stove can operate through pyrolysis. A fire is ignited on the surface of the fuel, as a result of which it begins to evaporate, burning almost completely in a perforated pyrolysis chamber. The final combustion of all residues occurs in the afterburner. Advantages of the scheme:
A homemade stove for testing, built on the basis of such a scheme, will delight you with its ease of ignition and quick access to operating mode.
The disadvantage of such a stove is that it cannot be extinguished - it goes out reluctantly, and if it goes out, it will continue to release a flammable mixture. Therefore, such heaters are charged with a strictly dosed amount of fuel.
Scheme of operation of a drip furnace operating in mining.
The drip furnace is a little more complicated - it uses a slightly different method of fuel decomposition. It falls into a special heated bowl and breaks down into components that burn with a large release of heat. Once in operating mode, the dropper furnace will burn flammable fractions at maximum high temperature - the color of the flame will change from yellow to blue-white, reminiscent of plasma. Due to this, drip furnaces received their alternative name - exhaust furnaces with a plasma bowl.
Naturally, there is no plasma in such furnaces and cannot be - this fourth state of aggregation of matter is formed at extremely high temperatures, reaching tens of thousands of degrees.
The exhaust furnaces themselves can have the most different designs. Some use natural fuel supply, while others use supercharging, which increases the efficiency of fuel combustion and increases the flame temperature. They may also differ in case type. For example, in pyrolysis models heat is released by the afterburning chamber and pyrolysis chamber. Stove in progress closed type warms with his metal body or even used to heat the coolant in the built-in heat exchanger.
You already know how a waste oil furnace works. The pyrolysis principle is simple, but less effective. And drip models are more complex in their design, but ensure the most complete combustion of fuel. In addition, they can work as part of water heating systems. Before we tell you how to make a working stove, it is necessary to talk about the advantages and disadvantages of this equipment. Let's start with the positive features:
As you can see, there is really nothing complicated in the design of a furnace operating in mining.
Not without its drawbacks:
It is necessary to regularly clean the chimney so that it does not become completely clogged.
Despite the rather serious disadvantages and limited scope of application, waste furnaces continue to be quite popular equipment.
As we have already said, any type of fuel can be used as fuel for waste furnaces. The easiest option is to purchase used machine oil. Its cost is from 25 rubles per liter. If you try hard, you can find oil at more affordable prices. In this regard, car oil change shops are lucky - they can get it from customer cars (usually no one takes it).
In addition to processing, you can use any types of oils:
Vegetable oil ignites quickly if heated thoroughly. It even causes fires.
In addition to oil, you may need kerosene to light the stove - it is used in pyrolysis stoves.
The use of gasoline and solvents to ignite stoves is strictly prohibited - they are highly volatile and ignite with pops and explosions. The same kerosene is ignited softly and safely.
The photo shows the factory furnace Teplamos NT-612, running on waste oil.
Before we tell you how to make a furnace for working with your own hands, we will look at several models of factory-assembled furnaces. A typical example is the Teplamos NT-612 oven. This is a typical drip fanless heater, intended for use in garages, workshops, hangars and other non-residential and technical premises. The power of the device varies from 5 to 15 kW, fuel consumption - from 0.5 to 1.5 l/hour.
Teplamos NT-612 is a closed type oven. It contains a chimney and a pipe for air supply. Combustion of fuel occurs in the inner chamber. In order for the oven to reach operating mode, it must be heated using small quantity diesel fuel poured into a special bowl. After the fuel burns, we get a stove ready for refueling and further work - we open the waste supply and set it on fire.
The design of this unit has a built-in tank that can hold up to 8 liters of fuel.
A mini-furnace of the “potbelly stove” type is as simple as a matchbox. It is made of sheet iron and is characterized by its versatility - it heats non-residential premises and allows you to cook food (small pots, pans and kettles are placed on the surface of the afterburning chamber). The power of such units varies widely. The equipment operates on the basis of pyrolysis.
Zhar MS-25 can operate on both waste oil and diesel fuel.
Let's consider a more solid stove - this is the heat generator Zhar MS-25. The unit can operate on both waste oil and diesel fuel. For its operation, electricity is required to power the built-in fan. Thermal power the device is 25-50 kW, which allows it to heat an area of up to 500 sq. m. In this case, the maximum flow rate is up to 4.5 l/hour. The stove is quite large, it weighs 130 kg and requires a good chimney. The temperature of the air entering the heated rooms is +50-70 degrees.
We have already examined all the features of furnaces operating on waste oil. Units were also affected industrial production, including a mini-furnace of the “potbelly stove” type. All that remains is to deal with homemade devices. We have already said that you can assemble the stove yourself using welding machine, a set of tools and suitable hardware. Let's look at this process from a practical perspective.
Next, we will tell you how to make a working furnace with your own hands. Let's start with the most difficult option - this is a homemade stove for a garage from a cylinder. The basis for its manufacture will be an old gas or oxygen cylinder, from which the condensate must be drained. The cylinders have fairly thick walls, so at the end of the work we will get a safe stove made with our own hands.
Looking at the drawing of a homemade furnace during testing, we can notice that the role of the body is played by the cylinder itself, from which the upper part is sawed off. Case height – 550 mm.
Now we will figure out how to assemble an exhaust furnace from a gas cylinder. For this we will need a welding machine, power tools and a tape measure. In addition to the cylinder, you need to prepare:
From the upper part we make a lid through which a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm will be inserted into the cylinder, not reaching the bottom by 60 mm. We weld a cover with four holes to the bottom of this pipe (one hole in the center, its diameter is 22 mm, three more holes with a diameter of 5 mm along the radius, with a slight indentation from the middle). A pipe with a diameter of 20 mm is inserted into the hole in the middle, through which fuel is supplied.
Towards the bottom inner pipe We weld a metal bowl - diesel fuel will burn in it, heating the bowl, into which the waste will subsequently drip. The cup itself is made from a piece of pipe with a diameter of 140 mm and a piece of sheet iron, cut in the shape of a circle and welded on the bottom side. The height of the bowl is 20 mm.
By the way, during testing it is necessary to make five rows of holes with a diameter of 10 mm in the inner pipe of our furnace. The total number of holes is 35 pieces (a total of five rows of 7 pieces each). The distance between rows is 100 mm.
Ultimately you should end up with a design similar to this.
Next, we proceed to forming the chimney and vent. The blower is made at the very bottom of our stove– diesel fuel is poured into the bowl through it for ignition and heating. Also, dripping waste is ignited through it. We cut a hole for the chimney in the upper side part - weld a piece of pipe with a diameter of 110 mm into the resulting hole. Subsequently, the chimney pipe itself will need to be welded to it.
It is also recommended to do top part another viewing window with a lid. As for the intake of atmospheric air, it is better to take it from the outside by welding a cover with a hole for the air supply to the top of the inner pipe.
To complete everything, we weld the top cover - the process of creating a waste oil furnace with your own hands can be considered complete. Now it needs to be tested in test mode - it is best to conduct experiments on the street. Pour some diesel fuel into a cup and wait until it burns out. After this, we open the exhaust valve and watch how the process of reaching the operating mode begins. Only after completing the test can you begin installing the stove in a heated room.
Now you know how to assemble a stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands. The unit running on exhaust or any oil will delight you with a lot of heat. For example, the exhaust furnace diagram presented above is designed to heat a room with an area of 70-80 square meters. m. Let's now look at the scheme for creating a pyrolysis unit - that is, a small potbelly stove.
Assembly diagram of a pyrolysis furnace operating on waste.
This oven will consist of three main parts:
The oil container is made from a piece of pipe with a diameter of 344 mm, its height is 100 mm. We weld a sheet metal lid on the bottom. Our top cover is removable, it is made from a pipe with a diameter of 352 mm - sides with a height of 600 are welded to it. In the cover we make a central hole for the combustion chamber with a diameter of 100 mm. We make a hole nearby with a diameter of 60 mm - it will serve as a blower. This hole is closed with a simple rotating lid.
By adjusting the clearance of the blower, we can regulate the intensity of combustion, which will affect the air temperature in the room. If you completely close the vent while the stove is running, it may go out.
We make an afterburning chamber - we use a pipe with a diameter of 352 mm and a height of 100 mm. In the lower part we make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm into which the combustion chamber pipe is inserted. In the top cover we make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney. Inside, closer to the chimney opening, we weld a small partition 330 mm wide and 70 mm high. Our do-it-yourself oven is almost ready.
It remains to modify the combustion chamber. Everything is simple here - take a drill and a 9 mm drill bit, drill 48 holes (6 rows of 8 holes each). With a total combustion chamber pipe height of 360 mm, the holes should be located in an area 20 mm from the bottom and 50 mm from the top.
After completing all the work, check the tightness of all welds - this will allow you to count on maximum efficiency of the stove.
Check the performance of the resulting unit outside. This will protect you from possible fire and other accidents.
We start testing the furnace - we install it outside, pour the waste into an oil container, and add kerosene on top. Carefully set it on fire, leaving the ash pan open. After some time, the stove will return to operating mode - you can adjust the burning intensity using a blower. After this, the stove is moved indoors (it must be ventilated).
In order for heating to be as efficient as possible, install the furnace in a corner, and line the side walls with galvanized iron so that all the heat is reflected into the room.
A stove in the garage for working out is a simple and inexpensive solution for heating the room technical purpose. And if the garage is a workshop where people often come for oil changes, then there will be no problems with fuel - there will always be plenty of it. When using the oven, you should be careful:
By following these rules, you will ensure complete safety of the premises and protect yourself from injuries and burns.
