Materials needed:
1. 24 foam blocks measuring meter by meter and 5 cm thick.
2. 60 wooden slats with a cross section of 2*1 cm. Length of at least 2.2 m.
3. 5 cylinders of polystyrene foam.
4. 4 rolls of adhesive tape
5. 60 bolts with a diameter of 6 mm. 3 cm long and 60 7 cm long. 120 nuts and 120 washers. 12 screws with rings.
6. 24 linear meters of polyethylene, 1.5 m wide.
7. 6 bags of sand.
8. sheet thin plywood 1.5 * 1.5 m.
9. A strong pole, with a diameter of at least 7 cm, made of wood or iron pipe, at least 3 m long.
10. Pieces window glass any shape and size (preferably large)
11. Several meters of thin soft iron wire.
12. 12 supports for an iron mesh fence.
13. 12 linear meters iron mesh.
14. Putty for foam plastic.
15. Two door hinges, rings for padlock and a latch for locking from the inside.
Tools:
Drill with 6.2 mm drill bit.
Saw on wood.
Japanese knife.
Iron.
The order of work.
1. In the selected location, a pole is driven or buried into the ground so that the height from the surface is at least 2.5 m.
2. A circle with a diameter of four meters is drawn around the pillar.
3. 12 foam blocks are installed in a circle and secured with adhesive tape along the entire outer diameter of the circle in two places, from the bottom (as low as possible) and from the top.
The blocks must stand level, so that the corners of adjacent ones coincide in height.
4. 5 cm long pieces are cut off or broken off from one of the slats and placed two at a time on the upper edges of all twelve installed blocks. A second row of blocks is installed on top of them and they are also tied with adhesive tape in two rows, one of which should go along the very top.
5. In the intervals between blocks with outside 12 2.2 meter slats are vertically inserted from above. Each of them should protrude slightly from above.
6. Horizontal and vertical gaps, together with the inserted slats, are filled with foam from a balloon.
You need to wait until the foam hardens.
Lunch break.
7. When the foam froze, we got a monolithic dodecagon with a diameter of four meters. In one of the faces of this hexagon, we cut a doorway measuring 60*180 cm with a Japanese knife. We cut it carefully and evenly. We don’t throw away the cut out part; it will be needed.
8. We go inside and along the diameter of the central pillar at a height of 2.5 m. opposite the edges of the foam hexagon, screw in 12 screws with rings.
9. Take the next 12 slats and, having drilled a hole in them from one end, connect these slats with screws using screws and nuts with washers. (The free ends of the slats should lie on upper faces six-grader). In this way we form rafters for the future roof.
10. We connect the free ends of the slats extending from the central post with the tops of the slats, which were previously inserted vertically into the spaces between the blocks.
To do this, we apply each rail extending from the post to the top of the rail installed vertically and, having drilled both slats at this intersection, we connect them with a screw. We cut off the protruding parts connected by vertical and horizontal slats with a saw.
11. Now our structure has acquired minimal rigidity and the roof can be installed. The roof is made in advance from polyethylene. To do this, it is cut into six identical pieces of four meters in length and then soldered together with the edge of a hot iron through a sheet of newspaper in three pieces so that two panels of 4 by 3.5 m are obtained.
12. Mark the center of one panel, put it on top of the central post so that the center coincides with the top of the post, attach it to the post with adhesive tape and straighten the roof along the edges so that the edges hang from the side walls. Then we attach the edges to the walls with adhesive tape along the entire diameter.
That's it, now our house has a translucent roof.
13. We frame the doorway with slats on both sides. To do this, we apply slats on the sides of the opening, inside and out, and drill through the inner and outer slats and the foam plastic located between them. We insert bolts into the hole and secure the door frame. This needs to be done around the entire perimeter of the door.
We screw the door hinges to the door frame. If the holes in the hinges are not sufficient, widen them with a drill and fasten them with screws.
14. We make the door. To do this, we cut a sheet of plywood into two identical halves and fasten both halves along the length with two slats. Then we cut off the excess plywood so that the door is 65*185 cm in size and attach it to door hinges so that it completely overlaps the doorway from the outside.
After that to inside We attach the doors with screws using the foam remaining after cutting out the doorway. This must be done when closed door so that the foam fits exactly into the doorway. Next, you need to cut strips from it with a Japanese knife so that it does not fit too tightly to the doorway and allows the door to open freely without clinging to anything.
15. We strengthen the house from the outside. To do this, opposite each edge, almost close to it, we hammer in fence posts and attach the fence to it from the outside using wire. In this case, the edge with the door remains free.
16. We lay the remaining polyethylene sheet on the ground inside the house, for which we will have to cut it from one of the edges to the middle so that it can be carefully laid out around the pillar and sprinkle it with sand so that the edges along the walls and along the cut made stick up. This will protect the house from moisture from below.
All. The house is ready. Using a Japanese knife, we cut off everything unnecessary and unnecessary. If desired, you can make windows in the house by strengthening the glass on the walls using wire threaded directly through the walls at the corners of the glass. Then a hole is cut slightly smaller sizes glass
17. At the end, all the walls of the house, outside and inside, are coated with putty, to which you can add dye. This is necessary to hide all connections and give the house a finished look.
The area of the house will be about 14 m/2
You can surround your house with ivy and soon it will be completely covered with leaves and flowers.
If you make an insert, wooden or iron, into the central post on top, it will serve as a base on which you can attach solar panels, wind turbine, satellite dish and other gadgets.
The photo shows another house, but also made of foam blocks.
There are people to whom the expression “foam house” seems stupid and not everyone is able to take it seriously. In a way, this phrase is correct, because foam plastic blocks are used to build a house, which are later reinforced with concrete.
We are building a house from polystyrene foam
Today, one Japanese company offers consumers kits for building a foam house with their own hands. Such Japanese houses, in their opinion, have many advantages, one of which is resistance to earthquakes. This manufacturing company loudly called its japanese houses housing of the 21st century.
Technical features of this unique material are given in the table.
Later in the article we will talk to you in more detail about foam structures, and tell you what positive qualities such cladding can boast. We will also reveal the secret of the technology for performing the work, after which you will be able to build a house from foam plastic with your own hands.
We build a house from polystyrene foam
To tell you about buildings made of foam plastic, it is worth highlighting a number of advantages that a building made of foam blocks can boast:
Such insulation, as it were, envelops reinforced concrete profiles on each side.
Such a building can sufficiently hold warm air not only in the cold season, but also to keep cool on hot days.
Formwork is not the familiar panels that need strengthening and installation. At their core, these are blocks of foam plastic, in the middle of which there is a cavity. According to some characteristics, this material is very similar to cinder block, but externally you can’t tell them apart from each other. When constructing a building from block foam, you fill its interior with concrete mass, installing reinforcement there in advance.
This formwork is presented as a complete material. Technology installation work the same: install the blocks, mount the reinforcement and pour it in concrete mortar. In principle, such formwork can be presented in 3 varieties: as slabs, blocks or standard panel formwork, which is fixed together with specialized jumpers. The use of panel formwork is the most affordable option from a financial point of view, however, working according to such a scheme is not as easy as we would like.
The most suitable solution when doing construction work yourself is to use blocks that are so reminiscent of the long-familiar cinder block.
Also foam and concrete structure has some negative aspects, the most significant of which is considered to be the “thermos” effect. You can overcome it only by installing a high-quality system in your home. forced ventilation, which makes the work performed more expensive.
Another, no less unpleasant point is the environmental friendliness of the structure, which, even if tightly sealed with plaster, is out of the question. It is also worth noting the possibility of the material igniting, after which toxic substances will be released during combustion, which can even kill a person.
As you can see, not everything is as rosy as it might seem at first glance.
DIY foam house
Basically, all buildings, no matter what material, are built using the same technology:
The only difference can be noticed only during the construction of walls, which we will discuss in more detail a little further.
Well, the technology for performing work is carried out in the following order:
That seems to be all, these are all the nuances and features that you need to know about when constructing surfaces from permanent formwork. Most important point, which I would like to mention is that the cavity of the blocks must be thoroughly filled with concrete, without leaving the slightest gap.
We build the walls of a house from polystyrene foam ourselves
Building floors from foam blocks with your own hands is only half the battle. When the concrete hardens, the walls will have to be covered with plaster. The plastering technology is slightly different from the usual work and looks like this:
Please note that some types of wall façade panel can be installed not on the frame, but glued directly to the surface of the walls.
In conclusion, I would also like to mention this method of constructing foam plastic buildings, such as building frame house. Using this principle, it is much easier to build a building with your own hands than using the above. At its core, this is a familiar building based on a durable frame, in which foam plastic takes on the role of insulating material.
That's all I wanted to talk about. On the one hand, building a house out of polystyrene foam with your own hands - good decision, but as soon as you remember the “thermos” effect, you don’t really want to move into such a building.
But we all have our own opinion on this matter, and it is likely that for some such buildings will become the only and ideal solution. We will not dissuade you under any circumstances; the choice, as always, is yours.
IN Lately You can increasingly hear talk about the so-called thermal house. It may seem like this is a made-up term from some science fiction novel, but in reality everything is much simpler. A thermal house is a house built from polystyrene foam. This technology construction is also called permanent formwork.
This article will discuss how to buildDIY foam house.
These blocks are hollow boxes. Their dimensions are standard (95x25x25 cm), but for construction interior walls products of a slightly smaller width are used - 95x13x25 cm.
Note! Expanded polystyrene blocks are produced using industrial conveyor production technology. During a work shift, the production line produces about one hundred and twenty blocks.
The advantages of building materials include:
It is also worth noting that polystyrene foam is a “breathable” material, that is, one that allows air to pass through.
But there are also disadvantages that need to be taken into account before construction begins.
The cost of one such block is approximately 300 rubles, which is relatively inexpensive. Let's consider the costs of building a polystyrene foam house in comparison with a brick one. Thus, a thermohouse is a structure that is ready for final finishing and can be covered with either plaster or paint, or siding. In the same time brick house needs putty and thermal insulation (with the same foam), which, of course, increases construction costs.
In a word, a thermal house is an inexpensive pleasure, since it already includes both finishing and insulation. Moreover, according to GOST, the height of such a house can reach 15 m, which is equivalent to 5-6 floors.
Most people are sure that polystyrene foam, like any other “chemical”, is unsafe or even harmful to health. This fact has not yet been confirmed, but it has not been refuted either. It is worth noting that there are a number of requirements, in particular sanitary and GOST, to which the manufactured products fully comply.
But some people are difficult to convince even of obvious things, which is most likely due to a psychological factor. And even the fact that polystyrene foam is widely used in insulation and interior decoration, as well as in the manufacture disposable tableware, for some reason is not in in this case a powerful argument.
Having dealt with the strong and weaknesses material, you can begin installation. But first you need to prepare everything you need.
The work will require:
Construction of a house begins with the foundation. The best option– ordinary strip foundation, although it all depends on the soil characteristics in the selected region.
After pouring, the base is supplemented with support. For this wooden blocks 50x60 mm in size are laid along the entire perimeter of the foundation. The entire remaining area must be laid with boards of similar thickness.
Note! After laying, the wood is treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic.
The construction of a thermal house is similar to the assembly of a construction set - the blocks are joined groove to groove, laid with reinforcement and assembled into walls.
Step 1. Foam blocks are prepared for installation: cleaned, leveled and thoroughly dried.
Step 3. Concrete solution is prepared. To do this, cement, crushed stone and sand are poured into a concrete mixer in a ratio of 1:3:3 and filled with such an amount of water that the resulting liquid mixture is obtained.
Step 4. After running five rows, the solution is poured into the voids between the layers of blocks. When pouring, it is advisable to tap the side surface of each block - this will make the concrete shrink more densely.
Step 5. Part of the wall is assembled from the next five rows of blocks and filled with mortar again. The procedure is repeated until construction is completed.
Step 6. Sewage, wiring and other communications are laid directly into the walls of the house, after which it is covered with a roof and the final finishing of the walls is carried out. It is typical that it is recommended to lay the pipeline in still hollow walls, while the electrical wiring is routed through pre-made grooves (there should be no problems with grooved foam).
In choise roofing material there are also no restrictions. In essence, a foam house - monolithic design, capable of withstanding any load, so even natural tiles can be used for coating.
Note! It is better to start the construction of a thermal house in warm time years at a temperature not lower than -10ᵒС.
Foam blocks retain their original properties for a long time. There is even an opinion that a house built from these blocks, under appropriate conditions, can last up to 100 years.
As already mentioned, there are practically no restrictions when decorating the walls of a thermal house internally/externally. From a financial point of view, it is more profitable to use decorative plaster or regular paint, and cover the inside with plasterboard.
The thermohome may look different. Below are instructions for constructing an arched building standard sizes: the height of the walls is 3 m, total area– about 10 m². Of course, such a structure cannot be used as permanent housing.
Before starting construction, you need to take care of everything necessary. Below is a list of materials:
Step 1. First, the foundation is built. In this case there are no differences from the previous option.
Step 2. A 50x60 mm beam is laid along the entire perimeter of the base, fastening is done using anchors. In this case, the structure is periodically checked with a level.
Note! To optimize fastening, you can use any mounting foam, except extra-class. This is explained simply: this type of foam expands greatly.
Step 3. The side walls of the base protruding above the ground are finished decorative stone. The stone is placed on ordinary concrete mortar and lightly knocked down with a hammer.
Step 4. The foundation is covered with a waterproofing layer (polyethylene film is suitable). A brick can be laid on top of the film to increase the strength of the foundation and protect against subsidence.
Step 5. Next, foam blocks are prepared. They are cut and glued in accordance with preliminary measurements. For the frame of the arch you need to use only shaped blocks, and to fill the walls you can use ordinary thick sheets. Polyurethane foam is used for gluing.
Note! For fixation, you can also use special glue for polystyrene foam, but polyurethane foam is consumed more economically. The only drawback of foam is that its expansion must be constantly monitored, otherwise the tightness of the frame may be compromised.
Step 6. Ready arches made of foam plastic are attached to the base with self-tapping screws and dowels. To do this, holes are made along the entire perimeter of the foundation (with equal spacing), into which high self-tapping screws are installed. Then, holes are made in the appropriate places in the lower part of each arch, after which the arches are mounted on self-tapping screws.
Note! For ease of assembly, dowels can be inserted into the holes in the arches in advance.
Step 7. The arches are additionally fixed. If polyurethane foam is used, then it fills the gap between the frame and the base using a thin tube. If glue is used, then all working surfaces are lubricated with it before installing the arches.
Step 8. All that remains is to seal the cracks between the blocks with concrete mortar and plaster the walls of the house. For further finishing, as already mentioned, you can use any material - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences.
As you can see, building a foam house is not such a complicated procedure. The main thing is to correctly calculate the consumption of building materials and securely fix the blocks on the foundation. By the way, not only blocks can be used in construction.
For permanent formwork, you can use not only foam blocks, but also large perforated panels that are connected to each other by a frame made of reinforcement. The panels are attached to the reinforcement using mushroom-shaped nuts at the perforation points (such nuts are made from polyethylene under high pressure).
The average size of each panel is 100x300 cm. The gap between the outer and internal slabs(each 5 cm thick) is 15 cm, which is quite enough to build a house of two or three floors. Products are delivered to construction site element by element or already in finished form.
Construction of structures from 35-density polystyrene foam or how I built it domed house with your own hands using Japanese technology....
Let's build a round house.
And we will live differently.
And the windows, the roof - everything in it,
we'll call it something else...
Everything is real, accessible and practical. Low-budget construction technology is a reality. Therefore, checking what you read in practice, stay firmly on the ground so as not to fall into the sky from surprise...
(To all inveterate “Cubo-fundamentalists” and “occupiers” of construction forums who have not implemented a single project in practice, “buyers and sellers” who want to receive ready-made design solutions and calculations, "clever guys" who like to flood in the segment of technologies, technical characteristics, standards, scope of application, safety, ecology, etc., while keeping silent about the "price of the issue" when comparing, please: do not strain. Sincerely, [email protected])
elements on site
And so let's start in order. I will write about the construction of the dome and the house itself later (due to the fact that the foundation for the house is not ready, all communications, etc., are now being laid). I’ll start a photo report with a description with the construction of a tent element (tent type) over an autonomous basement. Size 3 m in width X 4 m in length (on the foundation), height at the ridge - 3 m, floor area - 12 m2, wall thickness - 180 mm ,material of construction is 35-density polystyrene foam.
This is what the elements of the house (dome and tent elements disassembled at the construction site) look like:
The elements are voluminous, but quite dimensional and quite light. All elements have an abbreviation indicating the serial number, name, purpose, row number, position, etc., it’s not difficult to figure out what’s what.
And so, on the prepared foundation (in my case the foundation is top part basement foundations about construction, technology, insulation of which I will not write - this is not related to the topic) with the displayed zero we fasten with anchors wooden beam to the foundation, measuring 50mmx60mm, we bring it under the level and sit it on polyurethane foam.
We will attach the elements of the first (bottom row) of the tent, that is, the vault (wall), to the beam, the beam will serve as a tenon to the groove of the element. There can be several options for assembling this structure: you can assemble the entire row at once and mount it on the foundation, you can mount the entire wall and install or two walls at once... I decided to mount an arch from all the elements and use it as a template (aligning it level with the foundation) and adjust everything to it - all subsequent elements of the rows.
All elements are glued together polyurethane foam or assembly adhesive for foam plastic and are fastened with staples (the foam can stick out when it expands and break the structure), the staples are made of steel wire. After 20 minutes, when all the elements are glued together and the foam has dried, we remove the staples (you can immediately cut off the foam or glue on all seams) and begin installation on foundation.
We place the structure (arch) on the beam after gluing it with glue or foam and secure it with self-tapping screws using dowels with hats (for polystyrene foam).
We glue all the elements thoroughly with mounting adhesive or foam, especially the middle and inner seam, the outer seam is not necessary (it will have to be cut out to fill with acrylic sealant or any waterproof mass on acrylic base for outdoor work - according to your desire and wallet).
When the tent is ready, assemble the window and door elements (they are included in the kit - one at a time) as well as the gables (you can make the gables yourself from brick, foam block, wood, in my case, polystyrene foam). You can install the windows and door as desired - either on the pediment, or on the sphere.
When you have decided “where and how”, cut out the openings and install the door and window elements.
I cut out the openings using a jigsaw and a narrow garden saw.
Then you install the gables. When the structure is ready, put everything in order: cut off excess foam or glue on the seams, smooth out all the irregularities (differences) at the joints of the elements using a foam float or abrasive mesh No. 40, No. 60 and prepare all external seams and joints for sealing with acrylic sealant (the main thing is to get in good weather, if it rains, everything will be washed away, both your time and your money, and therefore, after 12-18 hours of laying the sealant, I recommend going over the seams with ceresite SM-11).
After sealing the structure, we install doors, windows, electrical wiring and ventilation. (By the way, we mount the doors on a wooden or metal carcass). Next, we prepare the structure for reinforcement with ceresite SM-11 (this is in my case, then the finishing will be artificial stone) using facade mesh (serpyanka) with a density of 145 g/m for the outside and a density of 125 g/m for finishing inside. For finishing for painting, the mesh is placed on the putty (start-finish) for exterior and interior work, there are many options.
The consumption is not high. (I have a ribbed design specifically for polyurethane foam - polyurethane foam coating, but since polyurethane foam has its drawbacks, all the ribbing was sanded. And all the elements of the sphere are smooth on both sides.)
Finishing (reinforcement) is done first inside, then outside.
I decided to make the exterior finishing (decor) with artificial stone from the tanvald series (fortunately there are polyurethane forms left, I make the stone myself, the technology is the simplest: flour (granite dust), cement, perflix (it is light weight, glue, fiber...), liquid glass, plasticizer and iron oxide pigment (for example, yellow, brown) - all of course in proportions.
Since I decided to finish the roof with stone, support strips were installed (40x60 timber)
Elements of (external) basement ventilation:
Option for finishing gables and roof:
The roof and arches are finished with artificial stone of the "dolomite" series, the pediments are "tanwald". After laying the stones, the supporting wooden blocks are dismantled (they cannot be left, they can be pulled, since wood has a different stress under loads, both atmospheric and mechanical). You can also make the support from polystyrene foam (wall), 3 or 5 cm is enough (after cutting out a groove and gluing it with mounting glue), you can leave it as a flange (edge) of the roof, if this is necessary (as an option), you can use dozens to make a roof slope (to drain water, but in winter icicles can form), spreading it at 45 degrees...
Coverage options ( composite materials) may be different. In this option, “aquastop” (waterproofing) was used without tinting the coating.
For protection, I’m still deciding: either applying polyurethane foam with painting, or flexible tiles.
And also for everyone (additional waterproofing). On the external reinforcement (after drying) I apply a 1mm layer of this glue and after drying I glue the pebbles.
For waterproofing the dome for painting, there is another option, for example “AQUASTOP”, but I will write about it when processing the sphere of the house....
This is the kind of cheerful cellar I plan to get at the end.
In summary: let’s summarize the first results.
Assembling the structure, two people are involved, the work time is 6 hours;
Sealing, one person involved, work time - 3 hours;
Reinforcement inside and outside, one person involved for 6 hours.
Protective coating (roof):
And so, I stopped at protective coating made of flexible tiles. The stone had to be removed due to the complexity of installation on the dome (the dome of the house, the height to the “ridge” is 8 meters). The decision was made to cover the guest house (a wooden log house standing next to the water), a self-contained basement and a domed house with one composite material (roof texture).
Issue price: $10 per square meter.
(I do not indicate the cost of the work due to 70% of the work being done independently).
There is an option for using polyurethane foam (coating (spraying) with a polyurethane mixture).
In our region:
1 cm layer - waterproofing, price: 7-9 dollars per sq. meter;
Layer 3cm - mechanical protection and waterproofing, price: 11-12 dollars.
per square meter;
Layer 6 cm - mechanical protection, waterproofing, thermal insulation, price: $15-18 per square meter.
There are people to whom the expression “foam house” seems stupid and not everyone is able to take it seriously. In a way, this phrase is correct, because foam plastic blocks are used to build a house, which are later reinforced with concrete.
We are building a house from polystyrene foam
Today, one Japanese company offers consumers kits for building a foam house with their own hands. Such Japanese houses, in their opinion, have many advantages, one of which is resistance to earthquakes. This manufacturing company loudly called its Japanese houses housing of the 21st century.
The technical features of such a unique material are shown in the table.
Later in the article we will talk to you in more detail about foam structures, and tell you what positive qualities such cladding can boast of. We will also reveal the secret of the technology for performing the work, after which you will be able to build a house from foam plastic with your own hands.
We build a house from polystyrene foam
To tell you about buildings made of foam plastic, it is worth highlighting a number of advantages that a building made of foam blocks can boast:
Such insulation, as it were, envelops reinforced concrete profiles on each side.
Such a building can sufficiently retain warm air not only in the cold season, but also keep it cool on hot days.
Formwork is not the familiar panels that need strengthening and installation. At their core, these are blocks of foam plastic, in the middle of which there is a cavity. According to some characteristics, this material is very similar to cinder block, but externally you can’t tell them apart from each other. When constructing a building from block foam, you fill its interior with concrete mass, installing reinforcement there in advance.
Related article: Kitchen decoration with false panels
This formwork is presented as a complete material. The installation technology is the same: install the blocks, install the reinforcement and pour the concrete solution into it. In principle, such formwork can be presented in 3 varieties: as slabs, blocks or standard panel formwork, which is fixed together with specialized jumpers. Using panel formwork is the most affordable option from a financial point of view, but working according to such a scheme is not as easy as we would like.
The most suitable solution when doing construction work yourself is to use blocks that are so reminiscent of the long-familiar cinder block.
Also, foam plastic and concrete structures have some negative aspects, the most significant of which is considered to be the “thermos” effect. It can only be overcome by installing a high-quality forced ventilation system in the house, which makes the work performed more expensive.
Another, no less unpleasant point is the environmental friendliness of the structure, which, even if tightly sealed with plaster, is out of the question. It is also worth noting the possibility of the material igniting, after which toxic substances will be released during combustion, which can even kill a person.
As you can see, not everything is as rosy as it might seem at first glance.
DIY foam house
Basically, all buildings, no matter what material, are built using the same technology:
The only difference can be noticed only during the construction of walls, which we will discuss in more detail a little further.
Well, the technology for performing work is carried out in the following order:
