Stairs. Entry group. Materials. Doors. Locks. Design » Materials Disassemble the front door Freelander 2. B2: check the connection of the door release cable on the inside handle with the door latch

Disassemble the front door Freelander 2. B2: check the connection of the door release cable on the inside handle with the door latch

A common problem with opening the trunk on Freelander 2 and Discovery 3 and 4 cars is a malfunction of the 5th door open button. The problem manifests itself in different ways:

The trunk opens spontaneously and the message “TRUNK OPEN” is displayed on the information display, while the car, when the alarm is set, does not lock the doors and emits a sound signal informing the owner about unlocked door.

After washing or driving the car in the rain, the trunk door stops opening. After some time, the door opens again exactly until the next “shower”.

When I press the open button, nothing happens.

The way out of the situation when the trunk does not open at all is as follows: (1) open the trunk using the button on electronic key, if such a function is specified in the key itself; (2) for cars up to the 2010 model year, it is necessary to simultaneously press the door open and close buttons in the car interior, on the panel, and hold them together until the lock operates. This procedure can be carried out conveniently by two people, as it has a double locking lock.

If after doing both methods the door still does not open, possible malfunction Most likely, there will be a malfunction of the lock itself. But now let's look at the problem associated with the button.

In most cases, the reason for the failure of the button is its structural leakage, loose sealing rubber to the body and the location of the button itself in the area of turbulent turbulence when the car is moving. As a result, the button rainy weather, or in the sink, is constantly exposed to moisture. Moisture getting inside comes into contact with the metal pressure plate, causing oxidation processes. The resulting oxides are deposited on the plate, thereby creating an additional travel distance of the plate to the contact spot with the microswitch. In this regard, when you press the button, the force on the microswitch increases and, as a result, leads to its breakdown.

Oxidation and wire breakage is also one of the reasons for the trunk not opening. As a result of the wiring being in a constant humid and acidic environment from reagents, oxidation and wiring breakage occur.

The solution to the problem is to repair the wiring or replace the button assembly, depending on the cause. To get to the button on Freelander 2, you need to remove the trunk lid trim and unscrew the bolts securing the visor with the button.

Very often, the visor mounting bolts become covered with rust and cannot be dismantled. This complicates repairs and can lead to fastening failure. Caution must be exercised!

This is the picture that appeared before our eyes on the 2008 Freelander 2:

If you do the repairs yourself, you can try to clean the plate and seal it sealing gum buttons to prevent future moisture penetration. However, practice shows that the effect of this operation will not last long.

We recommend replacing the button with a new one, the cost of which is about 2800 rubles. The cost of replacing the button was 1,500 rubles. Completion time is about 35-50 minutes. Prices are indicated at the time of repair and do not constitute an offer.

We give DISCOUNT 20% for all work upon your first visit to our technical center!

Remember that any repair requires appropriate qualifications and skills of a craftsman. After all, each car has its own characteristics!

Question: Disassembling the Freelander 2 door

It so happened that he personally applied Filka to the microfence. I jammed the bottom of the door, tore off and damaged the trim. (IMG:) (IMG:) They advised me to come to the chiropractor for inspection with the door disassembled. (IMG:)
On the forum I found only general pictures from which I understood how many screws there are and that there are “bugs”. How to get to the entire farm is not really clear (IMG:) The eyes are afraid, but the hands do. See if anyone is interested.

Peculiarities:
1. the door trim sits firmly on the “bugs” - I wrapped the knife in a rag to prevent scratches, before doing this, disconnect the backlight from below.
2. as soon as the first bug is picked, a chain reaction continues. Carefully! do not break the two brackets on the door trim under the mirror (I killed one (IMG:)).
3. Next, lift the trim up and separate it from the door by a maximum of 5-7 cm.
4. disconnect the power window wire and the door handle drive (everything is simple - it takes a long time to describe).
5. turn off and unscrew the speaker, the speaker is held on by 3 screws and two clips built into its body - be careful not to break it! Press the clip on the side along the radius of the speaker and remove it.
6. Install (from the driver's door) the glass at a level of 2/3 of the diameter of the hole for the speaker, insert your hand into the hole and carefully bend the plastic brackets with outside door, disconnect the glass from the drive and fix it in the upper position using available means.
7. Disconnect the controller unit (3 self-tapping screws) from the door drive housing, unscrew the fastening (10 key) of the window regulator drive (6 points) and turn it 90 degrees. pull out clockwise.

Good luck!

Attached images

Answer: Eh, dear man, you are right. (IMG:) But almost all the bugs fly off easily, except for two, which are installed almost under the mirror, are made of a different material and it is very, very difficult to get to them from the counter - there is critically little space (IMG:) Is this or really a special spatula puller needed or a half-meter screwdriver, lighting, a keen eye in the crack and finally know where to shove its infection (screwdriver)... (IMG:) (IMG:) (IMG:)
Although, if you removed the door trim on Filka, share your experience, everyone will be interested (IMG:)
And if this is just reasoning, well, then let it be just reasoning (IMG:)

Question: Question about the turbine

Hello. My turbine is humming. The car is a Freel 2 diesel 160 horsepower. The question is. Will the turbine from the Ewok fit the Freelander? If you leave your actuator.

Answer:

Quote(AlexRBB @ 14.6.2018, 18:39)

Got it, thank you. Also, can you tell me if the turbine is humming? But only while driving. Could it even be the intercooler pipe? Are there any options on how to check?

The main signs of leaking pipes: loss of power (dips), black smoke during acceleration.
More detailed search on topics about pipes/intercoolers/turbines. Here this stuff has been chewed and chewed for a hundred rows. And symptoms, and what, and where, and photos, what to change for, where to get them, part numbers, prices. Good luck!

Question: I want to buy a used Freelander2. What to look for?

Good afternoon I really hope for your support and advice. The question arose about changing the car, now I have a right-hand drive Toyota (Vitz). I really like it, nothing breaks at all. But I really love traveling by car, nothing fits in my little one, I want to buy a car that is comfortable, roomy and reliable, and of course beautiful to my liking!!! Everyone advises a lot, but I really like Freelander. They say a lot of good and bad. The accumulated amount is enough for Freelander 2007-2008. After reading the information, I realized that the year also plays a role. What you should pay attention to when buying, maybe someone will write an algorithm of actions on how to choose, with maximum security (although I understand that here you will be lucky), but at least some basic rules. Thanks in advance everyone

Answer:

Quote(Master @ 20.2.2013, 12:01)

No need to be so critical. I have my third (in total) car. The first 8 years mileage is 45 thousand, the second 5 years - 48 thousand, friel 5th year - 36.... thousand. For some people it’s 5 km to work, for others you can count it yourself. (IMG:)
PS. I’m not going to sell Frila for the next ones.....

Logically, there should be a bicycle in this row with such a distance to work! Mileage will be even less! Yet again healthy image life! (IMG:)

Question: Help me decide

Hello!
Tell me, is it worth taking a Disco-3-diesel-manual transmission as the first car in your life? Or does she still need experience in owning other cars? So to speak, do you need to mature for it? There are a couple of options (Freelander is among them, though).

For those interested, here are the options:

http://www.24auto.ru/board/cars/krasnoyarsk/land-rover/discovery/6838263/

http://www.24auto.ru/board/cars/krasnoyarsk/land-rover/discovery/6910792/

http://www.24auto.ru/board/cars/krasnoyarsk/land-rover/freelander/6704468/

Answer: If you are not afraid, then you should take it)))

Question: Start after lunch

Hello friends, I picked up the car after the repair (the Freelander won’t start), and now the following miracles happen to it: the car starts only in the afternoon, and after that it works perfectly, even if it’s turned off a hundred times and then started. After the error on the crankshaft sensor failed, it would seem that everything is just change the sensor and you will be happy, but no, I changed the sensor, changed the magnetic tape, checked the wiring, everything is the same, I don’t know what to do.
Everyone is already laughing and calling it the afternoon Freelander, they say this doesn’t happen. Maybe someone had something similar?

Answer: Set the clock and time zone correctly (IMG:)

Question: After replacing the automatic transmission, shocks appeared when engaging gears R and D

Good day, I ask for help. Essence of the question
I changed the automatic transmission to Freelander 2, installed a contract one, and reset the automatic transmission adaptation using SDD. I started the car, everything was fine, but this problem appeared: A noticeable shock when switching from parking mode to R and D. You can feel it in the cabin, when you look at the pit, the jerk of the engine with the gearbox is decent. What could it be? How to treat?
Thanks in advance.

Answer: Now comes the fun part.
Today I went to the office where I got the box and found out that the box that they sold me was a contract from Europe from a 2012 car, mileage 10,000 km, there’s only one thing, but it’s from an Ewok.
As they told me in the service, the boxes are identical, so there will be no returns.
In short, the replacement span came out.
What to do now? How to adapt the box from Evoque to Freelander2?
Are there any options to save the situation?

Question: Is it worth it?

I have a land rover freelander 2 2.2 T.D 2008, 150,000 mileage. Due to financial opportunity, I thought about getting a newer frill (I’m not even considering another car), restyling 2014, are there any significant changes besides color displays, square fogs and etc? Or should we just drive the old one and save the money for a newer model? And will Freelander 3 appear?! Thanks.

Answer: A new Friel came out (sort of), but it’s not Friel anymore. Better ride on your own. At least you know what it's made of)))

Question: Maintenance cost for FL2

Good afternoon everyone!
I'm interested in the cost of regulated maintenance for Freelander.
I would also like to know the frequency of maintenance. I heard that after 10 thousand km and the second option was that after 12 thousand km or once a year.
It depends on what comes first.
I would also like to see the maintenance diagram itself, that is, what is replaced and after what interval of mileage.
Thanks to everyone who responded.

Answer: Everything is clear about 12 thousand. It’s just that a person from St. Petersburg writes that 12 thousand or once every six months. Read above. It turns out that you need to service every six months, regardless of how much you have accumulated - 3000 or 10 thousand. ??????

Question: it jerks during acceleration, help me find the reason

Freelander 2 diesel 08, 09 the lineup automatic transmission
When accelerating at about 2-3 rpm, shocks occur, as if jerking 3-5 times, then it’s normal, at this moment there are no gearbox shifts
I already wrote about the problem before, but I thought either the pipes or error p0113 were to blame, but at the moment, when diagnosing errors, the terrain response works fine,
could it be a box, go where else to look? I can’t imagine where to go in my area to find out what’s wrong... maybe someone has encountered this...??????

Answer: Greetings! I don’t know if it will help or not, I had a similar problem on RRS. During sharp acceleration or overtaking, at these speeds there were jerks and fluctuations in speed. No matter what I thought, it turned out that I refueled with low-quality diesel (I refueled at Lukoil), they diagnosed water in the fuel filter. After changing the filter everything disappeared. However, there was water left in the tank, I had to clean it, otherwise water would get in again.

Question: The car is jerking

Good afternoon Don’t tell me this problem has arisen. I have a Freelander 2 diesel 150hp 2013, about a week ago I was stuck in a traffic jam on the street hot weather I release my foot from the brake and get a push forward and so on throughout the traffic jam, but on cool days everything is fine, what could this be?

Answer:

Question: Question to Master Lr

In the previous post you explained how to remove the trunk handle, but only now I discovered that Freelander was mistakenly listed in my profile instead of D3. Are there any differences in removing the cladding? Thank you!

Answer: Which one?
Unscrewing the tube?

Question: Wheels from Ford and Jaguar

Will rims from Ford and Jaguar fit Freelander 2?
They are also 5x108 and c.o. 63.3, nuance: they have M12x1.5 fasteners, and we have M14x1.5 (if the catalogs don’t lie).
From memory, the holes in the standard discs are larger than 14 mm and the alignment is conical.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Or just try it on? But this is not very convenient, especially if the discs are sold in another city (IMG:)

Answer: For the winter I installed 17" Ford Kuga wheels, everything fits, I used original nuts.
Photos of dirty disks:
(IMG:)

Question: Need help

I apologize, maybe there is already such a topic, but I searched and didn’t find it. The problem is the following: Freelander 2008 2.2 suddenly stopped pulling while driving, the check didn’t light up, but errors P02E0 and P02E1 appeared, what these errors are connected with, I know, but I can’t go where to go understand. The throttle is normal. Thank you very much in advance

Answer:

Quote(Aksellus @ 6.3.2017, 16:01)

Check the connector on the air meter, it may be loose.

I cleaned the throttle, 2 days passed and everything was gone

Question: Broken thread in the air filter housing

Freelander 2 2008 2.2 diesel

Repair option:
You will need:
100 rubles for 4 5mm nuts. 4 screws 5x45
screwdriver and 5.2mm drill bit.

unscrew the 4 screws/screws of the air filter, remove the filter, pull it up and remove the lower part of the housing
Now you have it in your hands and it is convenient for you to carry out the following operations.

Don’t forget to also drill holes in the top cover so that the screw can pass through easily.

Answer:

Quote(zweryga @ 29.9.2012, 21:16)

At some point, the threads in the lower part of the air filter housing were stripped

Everything is fine with my thread because I serviced it myself all the time and didn’t trust the OD (IMG:)
And TS +100 for ingenuity! The remaining question is to ensure that the cage nut does not fly out. I would also grab it with super tape on the sides. There's a place there. Then it will be totally cool.

WARNING: Diagnosis by substituting an element from another vehicle is NOT permitted.

Substituting control modules does not guarantee confirmation of the fault and, in addition, may cause additional malfunctions in the vehicle being tested and/or in the vehicle from which the modules are removed.

1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.

2. If an obvious cause is identified for the problem you identified or the customer described, correct it (if possible) before proceeding with subsequent actions.

3. If the visual inspection does not reveal the cause, check the symptoms by referring to the symptom chart, or check for DTCs and refer to the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) index.

DTC Index

NOTE: If a control module or component is suspected and the vehicle remains under manufacturer's warranty, refer to the Warranty Guide (Section B1.2) or determine if there is any previously approved custom program in place before installing a new module/component. .

NOTE: Universal scan tools cannot read the codes listed or can only read 5-digit codes. Match the 5 digits from the scan tool to the first 5 digits of the listed 7-digit code to identify the problem (the last 2 digits provide additional information read by the manufacturer's approved diagnostic system).

NOTE: When performing voltage or resistance tests, always use a digital multimeter (DMM) that is accurate to three decimal places and has a current calibration certificate. When checking resistance, always consider the resistance of the DMM wires.

NOTE: Before starting diagnostic programs using Pinpoint tests, check and correct basic faults.

For a complete list of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that can be stored in your vehicle, see Section 100-00.

Behind additional information refer to: Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index - DTC Driver/Passenger Door Module (DDM/PDM) (100-00 general information, Description and principle of operation).

Symptoms table

Sign	Possible reasons	Action
One of the doors does not open from the outside (but does open from the inside)	Door lock Cable fault Door handle	Switch to PINPOINT TEST A.
One of the doors does not open from the inside (but does open from the outside)	Door lock Cable fault Door handle Locking (child safety)	Switch to PINPOINT TEST B.
One of the doors won't close	Door lock Cable fault Door handle Door lock switch Wiring harness	NOTE: Make sure that accumulator battery the car is fully charged. Switch to PINPOINT TEST C.
A door unlock message appears on the instrument panel	Door lock Wiring harness Dashboard	Switch to PINPOINT TEST D.

Fault localization test

Pinpoint test A: one of the doors does not open from the outside (but does open from the inside)

A1: Check that the door release cable is installed correctly between the lock and the outside door handle

Remove the door trim panel (if necessary). For more information, refer to: Front Door Trim Panel (501-05 Trim, Removal and Installation) / Trim Panel back door(501-05 Interior trim, Removal and installation).

Check that the door release cable is installed correctly on the outside door handle. Is the cable installed correctly?

Yes- GO to A2.
No

A2: Check the connection of the door release cable on the outside handle with the door latch

Is the door release cable connection on the outside handle to the door latch installed correctly? Is the door release cable on the outside handle installed correctly?

Yes- GO to A3.
No- Connect the door release cable correctly. If the cable is damaged, install a new one. Check the normal operation of the system.

A3: Using the outside door handle, check that the latch is working properly

With the door open, use a suitable screwdriver to lock the door latch and pull outside handle door to make sure the latch unlocks. Does the door latch unlock?

Yes- GO to A4.
No

A4: Shut the door and check its operation

Yes
No- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).

Pinpoint test B: one of the doors does not open from the inside (but does open from the outside)

B1: Check that the door release cable is installed correctly between the lock and the inside door handle.

Make sure the lock is disabled (if necessary).
Remove the door trim panel (if necessary). For additional information, refer to: Front Door Trim Panel (501-05 Trim, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Trim Panel (501-05 Trim, Removal and Installation).
Check that the door release cable is installed correctly on the inside door handle.

Is the cable installed correctly?

Yes- GO to B2.
No- Connect the door release cable correctly. If the cable clamp is damaged, install a new clamp. Check the normal operation of the system.

B2: Check the connection of the door release cable on the inside handle with the door latch

Yes- GO to B3.
No- Connect the door release cable correctly. If the cable is damaged, install a new one. Check the normal operation of the system.

B3: Check the door latch plastic retainer/cable housing for damage.

B4: Using the inside door handle, check that the latch is working properly

With the door open, use a suitable screwdriver to lock the door latch and pull the inside door handle to ensure the latch releases. Does the door latch unlock?

Yes- GO to B5.
No- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).

B5: Shut the door and check its operation

Make sure that the door opens, closes, locks and unlocks normally after slamming. Repeat this procedure 5 times. Does the door work correctly?

Yes- Check the normal operation of the system.
No- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).

Pinpoint test C: one of the doors does not close

C1: Check the operation of the inner door handle locking clamp

Check the door latch locking/unlocking by pressing/pulling the locking clip on the inside door handle. Does the door lock and unlock?

Yes- GO to C2.
No- GO to C5.

C2: Check that the door latch electrical connector is installed correctly

Yes- GO to C3.
No

C3: Check the door latch electrical connector terminals for damage.

Check the electrical connector terminals and door latch for damage.

Yes
No- GO to C4.

C4: Check voltage at door latch

Check the voltage at the door latch electrical connector.

Yes- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
No- Repair the wiring harness. Check the normal operation of the system. If the problem persists, install a new door latch (as needed). For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).

C5: Check the connection of the door release cable on the inside handle to the door latch

Is the door release cable connection on the inside handle to the door latch installed correctly? Is the door release cable on the inside handle installed correctly?

Yes- GO to C6.
No- Connect the door release cable correctly. If the cable is damaged, install a new one. Check the normal operation of the system.

C6: Check the plastic door latch cable retainer/housing for damage.

Check the plastic door latch cable retainer/housing for damage. Is the plastic door latch cable retainer/housing damaged?

C7: Using the inside door handle, check that the latch is working properly

With the door open, use a suitable screwdriver to lock the door latch and press the inside door handle release to ensure the latch locks. Does the door latch lock?

Yes- GO to C8.
No- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).

C8: slam the door and check its operation

Make sure that the door opens, closes, locks and unlocks normally after slamming. Repeat this procedure 5 times. Does the door work correctly?

Pinpoint test D: a door open message appears on the instrument panel

D1: Check that the door latch electrical connector is installed correctly

Make sure the door latch electrical connector is installed correctly. Is the electrical connector installed correctly?

Yes- GO to D2.
No- Install the door latch electrical connector.

Check the normal operation of the system.

D2: Check the door latch electrical connector terminals for damage.
Disconnect the door latch electrical connector.

Check the electrical connector terminals and door latch for damage or corrosion.

Yes Are the terminals damaged or oxidized? No- Repair the electrical connector. Check the normal operation of the system. If the terminals on the door latch are damaged, install a new door latch (as needed).