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» The most efficient potbelly stove. Potbelly stove: device, application, types of homemade and factory-made, drawings Homemade potbelly stoves

The most efficient potbelly stove. Potbelly stove: device, application, types of homemade and factory-made, drawings Homemade potbelly stoves

Winter in Russia is more than winter. It's no secret that at this time of year it is uncomfortable to be outside a room with heating, but what to do if there is such a need? For example, you need to visit a garage and spend some time there. And the love of the stronger half of humanity for gatherings with friends in the company of their iron horse is known to everyone.

Of course, gatherings with even a slight “minus” outside rarely bring joy if the garage is not heated around the clock. There is a way out if you manage to install a homemade potbelly stove in the garage.

Features: pros and cons

The advantages of a homemade stove made from a barrel usually include:

  • fast heating with minimal fuel consumption;
  • simplicity and accessibility;
  • the opportunity to make it with your own hands from the most different materials, even assistants;
  • unpretentiousness when choosing fuel (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat, etc.);
  • Sometimes, for better heating and heat exchange, a kind of “labyrinth” of metal sheets is installed on the stove.

It will also be quite true to say that a stove made from a barrel probably has more disadvantages than advantages:

  • large heat losses and, as a result, significant fuel consumption during long-term use;
  • if you make a potbelly stove from an ordinary barrel, then you need to be prepared for the fact that it will not last a relatively long time due to the insignificant thickness of the walls - they will quickly burn out;
  • poor ability to regulate temperature;
  • if the potbelly stove is made horizontally, it will take up quite a large space in limited space boxing;
  • the vertical orientation of the stove will benefit the use of space, but the walls will burn out faster than a horizontally placed potbelly stove;
  • due to burning out of the walls, the stove can be a fire hazard and will require more attention when heating;
  • such a stove needs a high chimney with a height of more than 4 m, which will have to be cleaned regularly.

Most of these shortcomings can be eliminated by making the body of the potbelly stove from a gas cylinder. It has thick heat-intensive steel walls that are well welded.

Preparing an old cylinder for welding is very important due to the likely presence of explosive gas residues inside, even if the neck is removed.

There are several preparation options: you can simply fill the cylinder with water and leave it for a long time, or add alkaline substances to the water to neutralize the gas. However, this method is considered the most reliable:

  • the cylinder in a vertical position must be securely buried in order to cut a hole with a grinder;
  • fill it completely with water, wait a few hours;
  • mark the cutting line;
  • cut with a grinder until a through hole appears - water begins to flow out;
  • complete the cut and drain the water - the risk of fire is guaranteed to be eliminated.

Principle of operation

Let's take a closer look at the operation diagram of a homemade potbelly stove:

  • Combustion air is supplied through the ash pan to the furnace firebox;
  • During the combustion process, heat is released, which heats the bricks and walls of the furnace;
  • smoke, soot and combustion products are drawn out through the chimney;
  • combustion regulation to obtain the necessary heat transfer is carried out by increasing/decreasing the open gap of the blower door;
  • a potbelly stove is heated using different kinds both liquid and solid fuels (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat).

Potbelly stove under development

A potbelly stove, the fuel for which is not wood, but waste oil, has its own characteristics. It can be either a small stove for a regular garage or a device designed for heating large areas. In any case, all models work on the same principle and have similar designs and operating principles.

  • The potbelly stove has 2 parts. Used oil is poured into the lower part, where it is heated and brought to a boil.
  • The vapors are drawn through a perforated pipe for oxygen access, where their initial afterburning occurs.
  • The vapors are completely oxidized and burned in the upper part connected to the chimney.
  • The temperature in the lower container is relatively low; the upper chamber heats up to the maximum, heating the room. Its walls can even glow from the heat. Accordingly, this affects the choice of material for making cameras.

Drawing diagram of a potbelly stove during testing with conventional dimensions and proportions.

Let's consider the advantages of potbelly stoves during testing.

  • Unpretentiousness and “independence”. There is no need to constantly add firewood or perform any actions, the main requirement is correct adjustment filler neck gap (10-15 mm).
  • Efficient heat dissipation.
  • There is no soot from the chimney, the stove does not smoke.
  • Relative fire safety, since waste fuel is difficult to ignite, and only oil vapors burn.

Flaws:

  • noisiness;
  • characteristic odor (this can sometimes be eliminated by installing a water circuit or air heat exchanger with a supercharged fan that directs part of the air from the chimney to another room for heating);
  • the combustion chamber (connecting pipe with perforation) and the chimney have to be cleaned quite often;
  • the coked layer of burnt oil in the lower chamber is also quite problematic to remove.

When using a potbelly stove with waste fuel, you must adhere to the mandatory rules.

  • It is not allowed to use waste oil with gasoline or other flammable impurities.
  • Filtration of waste from solid particles is required.
  • Water should not be allowed to enter the mining area.
  • Strong drafts are not allowed.
  • Compliance with everyone fire regulations when installing the stove indoors.
  • Reliable ventilation is a must.

  • It is strictly forbidden to leave the stove unattended or sleep while the stove is running.
  • Do not use water for extinguishing!
  • Horizontal sections of the chimney hood are prohibited. The permissible angle of inclination of the chimney is 45°.
  • The chimney should have a length of 4 to 7 m.
  • It is recommended to pour waste into the furnace to a height of less than? volume of the lower chamber.
  • It is necessary to have it in close proximity to such an oven powder fire extinguisher and/or sand.

DIY making

Drawings and dimensions

The potbelly stove will produce maximum efficiency provided that it complies with the calculations made.

Let's look at the design of the chimney.

  • The vertical part (up to 2 m) is covered with fireproof thermal insulation.
  • The pipe is inclined or parallel to the floor (2.5-4.5 m), the distance from the ceiling in the absence of heat-resistant protection is 1.5 m, from the floor – 2.2 m;
  • The diameter of the chimney must be calculated with great accuracy so that its operating speed is less speed combustion of fuel, and it would not throw out all the heated air along with combustion products outside immediately, but would allow it to heat the walls, which is what main feature this type of stove. The calculated permeability of the pipe should be 2.7 times the volume of the firebox. That is, with a firebox with a volume of 40 liters, the chimney should have a diameter of 106 mm.
  • If there are grates in the potbelly stove, the height of the firebox is calculated from the top of the grate.
  • Complete combustion of fuel can be ensured by creating a high temperature, which can be achieved by using a metal or brick three-sided screen around the potbelly stove. Install it with a gap of about 70 mm from it. Heat reflection also has a fire-fighting function.

  • Bedding or a fireproof surface under the stove is strictly necessary, because:
    • thermal radiation from the furnace emanates in all directions, including downwards;
    • the floor can become very hot, which can lead to a fire.

Sheet metal is used as bedding; the area is 350-400 mm larger than the vertical projection of the stove on the floor (preferably 700 mm). You can use sheets made from other fireproof materials with a thickness of more than 1 cm.

Chimneys are installed differently in different rooms.

  • Part of the pipe is routed through the wall of the garage; this is the most common type.
  • The chimney is completely left inside the garage box and exits through the roof. Thus, the garage is heated better, but the installation process itself is much more labor-intensive.

Required materials and tools

To make your own potbelly stove in the garage, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • sheet metal for making an ash pan and hob if the stove is located horizontally;
  • metal for the chimney pipe (preferably with two elbows);
  • materials for fixing grates and supports;
  • oven doors;

  • cast iron discs;
  • welding machine;
  • sander;
  • welding wire/electrodes;

  • hammer;
  • tape measure/measuring tape;
  • chisel;
  • pliers;
  • drill;
  • metal stripping brush;
  • chalk pencil.

Let's look at the manufacturing process step by step.

  • As already mentioned, the stove can be manufactured in horizontal and vertical versions.
  • The dimensions of the stove are selected based on the dimensions of the garage box, taking into account all measures fire safety.
  • The walls need to be welded from sheet metal more than 4 mm thick.
  • The grate is welded inside the firebox or placed on fastenings welded to the walls of the firebox from the inside (removable version). It can be purchased in retail chains or made with your own hands from a sheet of steel by drilling holes no more than 20 mm in diameter, or from thick wire.
  • Weld the bottom.

  • Cut a convenient hole for fuel supply and 5-7 cm lower for the ash pan.
  • The doors can be made from sheet steel yourself, or you can purchase a ready-made cast iron block.
  • The stove is installed in the selected location in the garage.
  • At this stage the chimney is attached. The longer its area indoors, the warmer it is in the garage, since it also heats the air around it.
  • At the last stage of work, you need to put the potbelly stove on its legs. They are made from profile pieces, joined by welding or screwed to the body. You can also use a metal box without a front wall (used as a woodshed), and the materials for the base can be bricks or forged elements.

Where to place it?

Compliance with fire safety rules when using a potbelly stove in a garage is vitally important. Here we are talking about both the safety of the car and the preservation of the life of the person himself. The location of the stove is one of the important tasks. Most often, the corner of the garage box formed by two walls, which is located opposite the gate, is chosen. Direct contact between the stove and the car is strictly prohibited.

The distance must exceed one and a half meters. Similar conditions must be observed for the distance from flammable substances and objects.

The surface of the walls near the stove must be covered with fire-resistant material. They can be additionally lined with brick. If the garage is wooden, then the distance from the surface of the stove to the nearest wall should exceed 1 m.

If a potbelly stove is used for heating or cooking, it is very important to follow the rules of its operation. Their implementation, in addition to fire safety, will help increase its service life.

  • Before the first lighting, the stove must be checked and made sure that all connections and components are tight, and all defects must be corrected immediately to avoid the penetration of combustion products and carbon monoxide into the garage room.
  • For certain reasons, the chimney must be vented outside. The part of it located inside the garage space must be sealed.
  • The chimney is strictly prohibited from being vented into ventilation system. Even if the stove is installed in the basement, it must have a separate chimney.
  • The passages of the wall or ceiling of the smoke exhaust pipe must be insulated with fire-resistant, non-fire-hazardous materials.

  • A box of sand and a fire extinguisher must be kept in the garage in accordance with fire safety regulations.
  • A potbelly stove is also used as a stove and for boiling water. To do this, install a hob with burners on it (usually it is made of cast iron stove) or a tank for heating water.
  • The potbelly stove heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly. This disadvantage can be partially compensated for by a brick screen that accumulates heat and returns it to the room as it cools after the potbelly stove goes out.

Direct contact between the screen and the potbelly stove is prohibited. The gap between them is left at least 10 cm.

  • Typically, a brick screen has a significant weight, so it will most likely require its own foundation. Let's consider the stages of its manufacture.
    1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep.
    2. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand ( average consumption sand 3-4 buckets), compacted.
    3. The next layer is 10-15 cm of crushed stone, which is also compacted.
    4. The laid layers are leveled, then filled with a layer of cement mortar.
    5. Wait for the cement layer to completely harden. The longer the hardening time, the better (usually the time period is more than a day or longer, this will give additional strength to the foundation).
    6. Then several layers of roofing material are laid.
    7. The screen itself is laid out in half a brick, the initial two rows are made with continuous masonry on roofing felt. In the 3-4th row it is necessary to make ventilation gaps, then again continue laying the brick in a continuous layer.

Correct ways Cleaning a potbelly stove mainly comes down to removing contaminants inside the chimney, which is done relatively rarely. Mostly a brush is used. It is quite possible to make it yourself from a cylinder-shaped brush, tying it to a rope.

It is best to use brushes with plastic or iron wire bristles. The diameter of the brush is selected in such a way that when passing chimney there was no significant resistance.

Cleaning is used to increase the passage of smoke flow through the pipe and improve heat transfer. Sequence of the cleaning process:

  • plug the combustion hole with a rag;
  • make 2-3 careful movements with the brush so as not to break the seal of the chimney (stop if the brush moves freely);

Most of us have probably heard about such a stove as a potbelly stove. In its performance it represents metal structure equipped with a chimney. Such stoves were very popular in the first half of the 20th century. But after some time, when they began to install gas ovens And central system heating, they began to be forgotten.

Subsequently, they were remembered during the Second World War: during these years, when there was no central heating, potbelly stoves helped keep the rooms warm. These homemade stoves are often used to heat dugouts, dugouts and heated carriages. In the 50s of the 20th century, these stoves were remembered by the owners of summer cottages, who installed them in their garden houses. These days they are still popular primarily as a means of heating. utility rooms area 10-15 sq. m. They do an excellent job when used in garages, small country houses, greenhouses, etc.

High popularity of potbelly stoves ensured their dignity, of which they have sufficient quantities:

However, potbelly stoves cannot be considered an ideal heating device. Therefore, while getting acquainted with their advantages, it is also necessary to pay attention to the disadvantages. Although heating such a furnace takes a minimum of time, the achieved They don't hold temperature for long. For this reason, you have to regularly add fuel to them. In this regard, they are noticeably inferior to long-burning stoves, which do not need to be given attention throughout the day. The amount of thermal energy generated by a potbelly stove is not enough to provide comfortable temperature in a large room. It has a rather low efficiency of 5-10%. According to this indicator, it is inferior to most modern heating installations.

How to increase furnace efficiency?

This problem is relevant for many masters industrial production and ordinary craftsmen. To get an idea about this process, you should first find out how the potbelly stove works and become familiar with some important points.

Chimney diameter

When using potbelly stoves, the main thing is to ensure that a smaller amount of flue gas comes out through this chimney compared to the volume produced by the firebox. If this problem is successfully solved, the gases will remain in the pipe and move around the furnace space a certain number of times. This will cause air circulation, which is prerequisite, ensuring fuel combustion. As a result, when leaving through the chimney pipe, these gases will already have a lower temperature.

This problem can be solved by defining optimal diameter chimney. This can be considered a size that three times the volume of the firebox oven in cubic meters. However, if gas circulates in a metal box, it will quickly lose its temperature.

To avoid rapid cooling of gases and to ensure their complete combustion, it is necessary to change the fuel combustion process so that it takes place in the pyrolysis mode. It can be created using high temperature. Moreover, even if you try to use dry furniture as fuel, you will not be able to achieve the desired effect.

You can try to regularly add coal, but with the help of such raw materials it is impossible to create optimal conditions for the pyrolysis process. This is only possible if the oven operates in smoldering mode and naturally switch from one operating mode to another. Now we come to the next important point.

Steel three-sided protective screen

It should be placed in such a place that it is removed from the body of the stove at a distance of 50-60 mm. Thanks to it, more than half will be reflected towards the stove infrared radiation, which will ensure the temperature the firebox needs. It is very important to choose the correct distance between the furnace and the shielding element, since this can significantly affect the economic component of the design. The use of wood and coal at the very beginning of the combustion process ensures thermal energy production a lot.

Bearing in mind that the supply of firewood and coal is constantly in short supply, it is important to ensure that the very first portions of heat end up in the room and do not go down the chimney.

Among the currently known methods of heat transfer, convection has no equal in terms of efficiency. In practice, it is implemented by heating the air near the stove so that it spreads throughout the entire room. This problem can be solved using the screen.

Although the heating temperature of the lower layer of the potbelly stove is not so high, heat still radiates downwards from it. This creates a risk of fire in the room. For this reason, as a base on which the potbelly stove will be placed, it is necessary to use a metal sheet that provides removal 30-40 cm from the stove. Moreover, under it it is necessary to place an additional sheet, which can be made of asbestos or basalt.

It is worth noting that a potbelly stove is not able to 100% maintain the pyrolysis mode. This is due to the fact that after entering the chimney pipe, the gases leave it without having time to give up their heat. This can be achieved if you correctly approach the installation of the chimney pipe, choosing the most optimal design for it.

This problem is solved as follows: the chimney design must have a vertical part reaching a height of at least 1 meter. It should also provide a layer of thermal insulation, which can be used as basalt wool.

A pipe should go from it, located at a slight angle and having a similar diameter. She has special name - hog. With its help, conditions will be created under which it is possible to ensure the combustion of gases, as a result of which the heat supplied to the room due to them will increase by 30%. The length of such bars can reach 2.5-4.5 meters. It should be placed no closer than 1 meter from the walls and ceiling. There should be a space of 2 meters wide between the bottom of the stove and the hog. It would be useful to provide protection for it based on a metal mesh.

Ever since its appearance and popularization, the potbelly stove changes were made to their design. As a result, today they are long-burning stoves that are easy to operate and have a high level of efficiency. Modern version These furnaces no longer have grates, and an air choke has appeared at the ash-burner, the main purpose of which is to regulate the thermal power and combustion mode. To ensure long combustion, air enters the fuel from above.

Among the various options for potbelly stoves, the highest energy intensity is demonstrated by cast iron stoves. Such devices could even work without a screen. It was this feature that was taken into account when it was decided to use them for heating army barracks. In our country, they have been manufacturing army potbelly stoves for a long time, and there are no complaints about the quality of their work. These installations differ in many respects, including dimensions.

Assembling a potbelly stove with your own hands

In terms of design, such a stove includes a firebox with a grate, a blower ash collector and a chimney. Any building is suitable as a place to install a potbelly stove. The main thing is that there is a possibility for the chimney to be brought outside. If you have an empty one lying around gas cylinder, then you shouldn't get rid of it. You can find a use for it if you make a potbelly stove body out of it.

Materials for assembling the stove

To make a potbelly stove with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  • steel grate;
  • steel corners;
  • chimney pipe;
  • steel sheet;
  • door.

Necessary take a gas cylinder and mark the place at the top where the iron rim with the tap is located. It needs to be removed, for which you can use a hammer.

Then you need to cut a hole for the door, calculating its dimensions in advance.

The corners will be used for a frame for the door, for the manufacture of which you will need welding.

After the frame is welded to the cylinder, you need to install the door on the bolts, for which you will first have to make the necessary holes for them.

In a place corresponding to the bottom of the oven, you should cut holes for the grille, after which it must be welded. On the other three sides it is necessary to install steel sheets using welding. They will serve as walls for the future furnace. The result should be a box with a door that does not have a top. The box must be welded to the bottom, and this must be done so that the open side is adjacent to the door. Next, you need to install a damper, with which you can change the mode of air supply to the furnace firebox.

To make the stove-stove stable, it is necessary to weld the legs to the gas cylinder. A hole is made on the back side through which gas will escape from the chimney. After this, they begin to assemble the chimney, providing it with a turn that will allow the heat to leave the room with a slight delay.

The above diagram is applicable for making a potbelly stove with your own hands based on a 40 liter milk can.

How to make a potbelly stove from steel sheets with your own hands

The design of the firebox of such a stove should include partitions that will save you from the need to spend a large amount of fuel to maintain the operation of the stove.

Materials for assembling the furnace

To make a similar version of a potbelly stove, you The following materials will be required:

The first thing you need to do to build a potbelly stove with your own hands is a drawing that will simplify the task of making it for you. Next, you need to take the sheets and cut out elements for the stove body and two partitions from them. The latter must be installed in the upper part of the firebox; in the future, they will provide a complex, winding path for flue gases, which will provide more high efficiency generation of thermal energy by the furnace.

At the top you need to do chimney hole with diameter 110 mm. You also need to place a hole for the hob, the diameter of which should be 150 mm.

Next, we take the sidewalls and attach them by welding to the bottom of the body. It is necessary to weld steel strips 30 mm thick to the walls. They will serve as the basis for the lattice. It can also be created from a steel sheet, in which you first need to make a hole with a diameter of 20 mm. To create a grate, you can use reinforcing bars or purchase ready-made products in the store.

Conclusion

Although the potbelly stove seems to be a rather outdated version of the heating device, it is still remains in demand. In stores you can find many options for modern stoves, but it will be better if you make a drawing for it yourself. This will allow you to create with your own hands a stove that will completely suit you in all respects. In addition, there will be no problems with this, given that such a stove has a simple design, and its manufacture requires affordable materials that can be found in almost every household.

A compact stove for heating a small room, commonly called a potbelly stove, will soon celebrate its 100th anniversary. Having appeared in the 1920s, such metal stoves with a chimney became simply indispensable during the Great Patriotic War. Patriotic War. The potbelly stove has not given up its position to this day, remaining a necessary attribute of a garage, greenhouse or country house. Such a stove is needed wherever people need to warm up and cook food, despite the lack of central heating.

A potbelly stove has its advantages and disadvantages. The undoubted advantages of this heating device can be attributed:

  • energy independence and autonomy;
  • cheap fuel in the form of coal, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, peat, waste technical oil, diesel fuel, paint waste, etc.;
  • fast heating;
  • small dimensions;
  • installation without foundation;
  • no capital required;
  • ease of operation;
  • low financial costs if you make your own stove.

However, the potbelly stove also has disadvantages:

  • required good ventilation in room;
  • high fuel consumption;
  • the need for constant monitoring of fuel levels;
  • rapid cooling (however, this drawback can be corrected - to increase the efficiency, the stove can be lined with bricks).

Note: If you feel the need for such a device, then you have two options - buy an industrially made metal stove or make it yourself.

First, we’ll talk about purchased potbelly stoves, the cost of which starts from about 4,000 rubles (for example, the Ugolek stove) and rising to 40,000 rubles and above (this cost is typical for potbelly fireplaces with the beautiful names “Bavaria”, “Baron” and etc.).

With heat exchanger

In the middle of this price range fall, for example, potbelly stoves with a water heating circuit and a heat exchanger, an army cast-iron stove, and a long-burning potbelly stove of the Klondike type.


The materials for stoves and potbelly fireplaces manufactured in workshops are usually stainless steel and cast iron. The standard drawing assumes the presence of a bunker with a firebox door, an ash pan, and a chimney pipe. However, it happens that a potbelly stove is equipped with a hob, burners and even an oven. The enterprises also make heater stoves, as well as potbelly stove fireplaces, in which increasing efficiency A ceramic or steel casing is installed, which significantly increases heat transfer. If you wish, you can buy a fireplace-stove for your home or just a stove with a gas generator.

Homemade potbelly stove

It’s not difficult to make a potbelly stove with your own hands, even without a drawing. Available materials are suitable for the work, be it a gas cylinder, a milk can, a barrel, a piece of pipe or sheet iron lying around in the garage. Having decided what you can put into action, choose a drawing of a rectangular or circular section of the combustion chamber for your potbelly stove with your own hands.

For example, you need to do the heating yourself country house and you have an unused milk can (for arranging the stove itself), a bent piece of pipe (for creating a chimney) and a piece of metal fittings with a diameter of at least 6 mm (for the grate). To make a stove out of all this, you just need to be familiar with the tools, as well as use a little ingenuity.

The can is installed on its side - this is the basis of our home-made potbelly stove, its combustion chamber. A rectangular blower is cut out under the neck, the edges are processed with a file. The blower can be left in this form, or you can attach a damper to it, resulting in an output stove with adjustable draft.

In the upper part of the bottom of the can you need to make the markings yourself for the chimney (it should be 2-3 mm less than the diameter of the pipe). We cut out a hole and tightly push a piece of pipe adapted for the chimney into it. Half the work is done.

Next we deal with the insides of the potbelly stove. With our own hands we make a grate in the form of a “snake” from a metal rod. We insert the rod into the neck of the can and position it so that the grate stands horizontally in the future combustion chamber. That's all! If desired, you can place the resulting stove on an iron pallet and a rack of bricks. This will help avoid heating the floor and also reduce the likelihood of a fire to a minimum.

Note that a similar algorithm of actions can also be applied if you want to have a potbelly stove from a barrel. Long burning Such stoves cannot boast, but they cope well with the function of quickly heating the room.

Second life of a gas cylinder

A good idea for a small stove is to reuse containers that can withstand high heat. We have already talked about barrels, but how do you like, for example, a potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder or even two? These containers are good because they allow you to make your own stove for a country house or garage, like vertical arrangement, and horizontal.

To create such a potbelly stove you will need the following tools:

  • welding machine;
  • grinding machine with wheels;
  • drill with drills;
  • brush with metal bristles;
  • tape measure and construction pencil for marking;
  • hammer, chisel, pliers.

The materials you need to make your own stove are:

  • 1 or 2 gas cylinders;
  • Metal sheet for ash pan and hob(thickness must be at least 3 mm);
  • cast iron doors (old ones, for example, from wood stove, or made with your own hands from sheet metal);
  • chimney pipe;
  • thick metal fittings for making legs and grate.

Before starting work on a gas cylinder, open the valve and leave it in this state for at least 12 hours to ventilate the container. Another way to clean a bottle is to fill it to the top with water and then empty it completely.


For a vertical stove-stove, the gas cylinder is placed in its standard position, the neck is emptied and markings are made for the future firebox and vent. The marked pieces are cut out with a grinder. The grate is made separately - for this, fittings cut to the required dimensions are welded in the places marked at the bottom of the cylinder.

Hinges are welded to the cylinder on which the doors are hung. Next, latches are installed, which are designed to protect and increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove. A smoke exhaust pipe is welded on top or on the side of the cylinder.

For a horizontal potbelly stove-stove, the cylinder is installed on the “legs” sideways. A square hole is cut in it for the door and a round one for the chimney pipe. Instead of a grate, a series of holes are drilled at the bottom, and a rectangular container for collecting ash is welded below the cylinder. The stove is almost ready, all that remains is to hang the door with your own hands and install the chimney.

If desired, a complete set of vertical and horizontal stoves from gas cylinders can be expanded by hob made from a sheet of metal attached on top.

Free fuel

Note: If you want to minimize the cost of fuel for your potbelly stove, consider making homemade design for heating using automobile oil drained from the car.

The potbelly stove is especially good for garage owners. Its design drawing includes two tanks connected by a pipe, as well as a chimney.

To create a stove for mining you will need the following materials:

  1. Metal 4 mm thick for a potbelly stove.
  2. Metal 6 mm thick for the top tank cover.
  3. Metal rods for the legs of the stove (3-4 pieces of suitable thickness).
  4. Pipe made of heat-resistant material for connecting tanks (diameter at least 100 mm, length about 400 mm).
  5. Chimney pipe (length at least 4 m).

Work on the formation of a potbelly stove during mining is carried out in the following order:

  1. Legs are welded to the lower tank.
  2. A lid with holes made for oil and air is welded onto the top of this tank.
  3. At least 50 holes with a diameter of 9 mm are made on the connecting tube.
  4. Weld the tube to the lid of the lower tank.
  5. A second tank with a filling neck and a chimney pipe is welded on top.

Using this potbelly stove is easy. Oil is poured into a cold device through the filler neck almost to the top, not reaching the reservoir cap by just a few centimeters. Kindling material in the form of rags or newsprint is also placed there. All you have to do is set it on fire, and soon you will enjoy the warmth.


As a rule, such stoves “consume” from 700 to 2000 ml of waste oil per hour. Potbelly stoves during mining allow you to boil water and cook simple food. However, their operation requires the presence of good ventilation in the room to remove carbon monoxide, as well as compliance with fire safety rules (you cannot place flammable materials near the stove, use flammable materials such as gasoline, acetone, etc.). The waste tank must be protected from water. Refilling with oil is carried out only after the stove has completely cooled down.

Sheet metal

How to make a potbelly stove from metal? This project can be completed yourself if you have experience in welding and necessary tool. The following materials will be needed:

  • sheet metal (its quantity determines the size of the stove);
  • steel corners 5 mm thick;
  • metal tube about 30 cm long;
  • pipe with a diameter of 180 mm.

To obtain a potbelly stove-stove, you need to weld a rectangle of metal sheets joined end-to-end (without a lid yet). On one side, place the ash pan and the firebox door. Inner space The stove is divided into smoke circulation, firebox and ash pan.


In the last two compartments, a grate is installed that will hold solid fuel. To do this, steel corners are welded inside the potbelly stove on the sides at a height of up to 15 cm. A pre-welded grate is placed on them (it can be made from steel strips welded to thick metal rods at a distance of about 5 cm). It is better to make the grate removable, so that later, when it burns out, you can easily replace it. In addition, the removable grille design makes cleaning the heating device easier.

Let's return to the construction of the stove. To increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove, you can make fastenings for a removable reflector (a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 12 mm), which will separate the firebox and smoke circulation. To do this, two metal rods are welded on top. After installing the reflector, you should have a smoke channel.

Having arranged the insides of the potbelly stove, you can weld the top metal sheet, which will become the lid of the structure. A hole is made in advance to secure the chimney pipe. Next, the stove is equipped with jumpers that delimit the doors made for the ash pan, reflector and grate. As a rule, a small door is installed under the ash pan, but two steel doors are made to fit the full width of the stove, so that it is convenient to remove the reflector and grill.

The next stage is welding the latches and legs to the structure (metal tubes with a diameter of up to 3 cm and a length of 10 cm are suitable for them), as well as chimney pipes from a curved pipe with a diameter of about 18 cm (note that the chimney is placed on a 20-centimeter sleeve ). The sheet metal potbelly stove is ready.

Warm brick

A potbelly stove using wood, coal and other types of fuel can significantly increase its efficiency. To do this, it is enough to build a screen of baked clay bricks around it with your own hands. If you look carefully at the drawings of such a mini-building, you will see that the bricks are laid at a short distance from the walls of the stove (about 10-15 cm), and, if desired, around the chimney.

Bricks require a foundation. Do you want the masonry to last a long time? Then fill the base one at a time to form a monolith. It is better to take concrete as the material for the foundation, which should be reinforced with steel reinforcement yourself. It is advisable to place the reinforcement layer at a distance of approximately 5 cm from the surface of the concrete pad.

Ventilation holes are made at the bottom and top of the brickwork, which will ensure air movement (heated masses will go up, cold air flows will come from below). Ventilation also prolongs the life of the metal walls of the potbelly stove, delaying the moment of their burning due to cooling by circulating air.

Bricks laid around the stove accumulate heat and then release it for a long time, warming the air in the room even after the stove goes out. In addition, brickwork additionally protects objects surrounding the stove from fire.

If desired, you can completely lay out the stove from brick. Such a structure is advantageous in that it will last for many years without additional effort on the part of the owner. However, there are also certain disadvantages. The disadvantages of this option include the following:

  • the process of laying out such a stove is quite labor-intensive and is suitable only for those people who have experience in masonry with their own hands;
  • a brick stove is quite expensive, as it requires the use of fireproof materials, including special clay for mortar.

In order to get a small potbelly stove with wood, it is enough to lay out a cone measuring 2 by 2.5 bricks, 9 bricks high. In the combustion chamber, rows 2-4 are laid out of fireclay bricks. An ordinary fired clay brick is suitable for a chimney, into which you must remember to insert a stainless steel sleeve.

Whatever the method of making a miniature stove or potbelly fireplace with your own hands, whether you make them according to a drawing or by eye, the main thing is that at the end you get an effective heating device, and in an expanded configuration also a hob for cooking. Look around for suitable materials (barrels, sheet iron, etc.) and go ahead to your own homemade stove or even a potbelly fireplace!

The potbelly stove is a faithful companion for summer residents, security guards, and those who like to repair cars in own garage. Owners of small private houses also often use this heating option as the most economical and portable.

Such a stove is quite capable of heating a small room in a matter of minutes, and thanks to modern design solutions, it will not spoil the interior at all country house. Almost anyone who sets their mind to such a goal can make a potbelly stove with their own hands. We will look at how to do this in this article.

Tools for work

In order for the manufacture of a heating device to take you a minimum amount of time, you need to prepare the following tools:

Welding machine (at least 200A)
Electrodes and protective mask for welding
Bulgarian
Cutting and grinding wheels for metal
Slag hammer
Metal brush
Pliers, a simple hammer, a chisel
Drill with drills
Measuring device(roulette, meter)

What types of homemade potbelly stoves are there?

Appearance and specifications Potbelly stoves can be different. Each room has its own stove, which can both heat it and fit harmoniously into the interior. The future of the stove can be based on sheets of metal or used already ready product: a medium-sized metal pipe, barrel, gas cylinder or tank. In any case, the wall thickness should not be less than 3-5 mm.

If you need to heat a garage, then almost any option will do, since such a stove only requires heating a small room. For a potbelly stove that will be in the house, the aesthetic side is also important - the appearance of the unit, so it is better to immediately abandon some options. An important point is also the type of fuel that is used

Potbelly stove being worked on with your own hands

This is an option that is not suitable for heating residential premises. Due to the pungent odor that is released during the combustion of waste oil, it is not very pleasant to stay in such a room for a long time. Even if a good exhaust hood is working, all things in the house will be saturated with this specific “aroma”. This stove is perfect for heating garages and other non-residential premises.

To make it, you will need a 4-5 mm metal sheet, which will be cut into pieces, and a chimney pipe. All elements of the stove are cut out using a grinder. The edges of the pieces are cleaned. Before cutting, it is necessary to make the correct marking of all parts, according to the drawing.

Round holes are made in a pipe of the required length. This pipe is designed to connect the upper and lower tanks of the potbelly stove. It is also necessary to drill two round holes in the upper tank: one for the chimney pipe (top left), the second for connecting pipe(bottom right). The bottom tank of the stove is made in the same way, only the cutout for the pipe is made in the center of the tank. To fill the fuel, it is necessary to provide a filler neck, which is equipped with a sliding cap.

The lower part of the tank is made flat, and four or three legs are welded onto it. To ensure that the lower and upper parts do not become loose, they are reinforced with additional stiffening brackets. Weld seams must be thoroughly cleaned, and the furnace must be covered with high-temperature enamel, which will protect the metal from rust.

How does this oven work?

A potbelly stove produces heat in the following way: using a long thin stick or rolled paper, the waste oil in the lower container is set on fire. When the waste catches fire, the filler cap should be closed. Combustion air will flow through a pipe that is connected to the upper tank. Rising up hot air heats the top of the stove to a high temperature. It gets so hot that you can even heat a kettle on it.

Such a stove - perfect option for a garage, since it successfully heats a small area, and used materials for the firebox are always available to car owners.

Stove-stove made from a pipe or barrel

If you are planning to construct a heating device from a pipe or barrel, you need to select the appropriate diameter. It directly depends on the size of the room that needs to be provided with heat.

A potbelly stove made from a barrel can also be used in a residential area, provided that it is made carefully and correctly. This type is most popular for heating country houses.

Two are cut into the barrel rectangular holes, which will be connected to the firebox and ash pan. The cut pieces are used for doors. They are cut to the right size, framed with strips of metal and attached handles and a latch to such improvised doors.

Inside the barrel (pipe) two brackets are welded in the shape of a corner. These are holders for the grate, which are located just below the doors. You can use welded fittings as a grate or buy a ready-made one in a store.

A piece of pipe is welded tightly, and supports are welded to its lower part. A hole for the chimney is cut out on top of the pipe, into which the pipe is inserted and welded.

Only after this are the doors installed. They are attached to door hinges and install the hook for the latch, having previously measured the required level.

To give the stove an aesthetic appearance, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the welding seams and paint the product with heat-resistant enamel. If everything is done carefully, such a heating device will look no worse than its factory counterpart. After the paint has dried, the stove is connected to a chimney pipe that goes outside.

This is the easiest to implement and practical option. Despite the fact that such a potbelly stove takes up quite a lot of space, it is used for heating more often than other models. It is also very convenient that on the surface of the tank you can heat water in a kettle or pan, as well as dry clothes.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

The used gas cylinder is very suitable for the stove. This is an almost ready-made form for a potbelly stove, which requires minimal modifications.

The upper part of the cylinder, where the tap is located, is cut off, and a plug is welded in its place. A square cutout is made in the bottom of the cylinder - this will be the firebox. The cut piece must be turned into the firebox doors. To do this, it is scalded with metal and a handle is attached to it for opening. Subsequently you will have to weld to the hole metal hinges, on which the door will be placed. Install by yourself door leaf It’s better at the very end, when the potbelly stove is completely ready.

In order for air to enter the firebox, several holes are drilled in the bottom of the cylinder. They will provide traction and serve as grate bars. To prevent burnt firewood from falling to the floor, a metal box - an ash pan - is welded to the bottom of the cylinder. It can be made from thinner sheet metal. The ash pan is also equipped with doors.

After this, legs from metal corner or pipe scraps.
There will be a smoke exhaust pipe at the back of the stove. To do this, you need to cut a round hole in the upper part that matches the diameter of the pipe and weld it there.
On top you can arrange an impromptu cooking stove. It can be made from a metal grid or fittings by welding the frame to the top of the cylinder.

This potbelly stove is an excellent option for heating a summer house, garage or change house. It is versatile and does not take up much space in the room.

Rectangular potbelly stove

Of all possible options, such a stove is the most compact and neat type. It is used in residential premises, where, thanks to rectangular shape, the stove is easy to decorate and make almost invisible.

The most popular factory model is “Gnome”. Its structure is quite simple, and heat transfer is very effective.

This stove consists of only a few elements: a swamp, an ash pan and a chimney. The stove is installed on four legs. The second picture shows more complex design firebox that retains heat for a long time.

It is quite possible to build such a structure yourself. Let's take a closer look at how to do this

For this you will need these Consumables: a sheet of metal, at least 4 mm thick, a chimney pipe and a steel corner. In addition, you need to purchase a lid for the burner.

You need to cut out four walls, the bottom and the top cooking surface. In order for the fuel to burn completely in the firebox, it is necessary to use special plates that are located inside the stove. Thus, more heat will be produced in the combustion chamber.

Holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut out in the front part of the structure. Subsequently, doors on hinges, with handles and locks will be attached to them.
An opening for the burner is cut out from above, corresponding to the size of the part, and a hole for the pipe through which the smoke will come out.

The legs from the prepared corner are welded to the bottom of the stove.
The place where the grate will lie is marked on the side panels. Sections of corners are welded here, which will serve as supports for the grate. You can make the grate yourself. To do this, you need to drill a large number of holes in the steel sheet so that it becomes like a sieve, or weld a grate from steel rods.

At a short distance (at least 15 cm) from the hob in the upper part of the stove, a plate is welded. It should match the size of the stove, but not reach 8-9 cm to its end. A second similar plate is placed a little lower. It should also not reach the end of the container, only in the front part. These plates form additional ribbon-like passages inside the stove. The heat from the burning fuel will enter the resulting corridor and heat the plate. This way, more heat will remain inside the tank rather than escaping straight into the pipe.

Rules for safe use of a potbelly stove

Fire safety rules are very important when using a homemade heating device. In order for a potbelly stove to bring warmth and comfort to the room and not pose a threat to health, you must remember the following safety measures.

The stove must be placed on a fireproof base. It could be tile, sheet metal or brickwork. Walls near the stove also need to be protected from overheating. You can cover them with fire-resistant material or use non-flammable drywall. Under no circumstances should furniture or other flammable objects be placed near the stove.

The slightest spark or too heat surface of the potbelly stove may cause a fire.

In order to eliminate the possibility of accumulation of combustion products in the room, use ventilation. Think in advance where your potbelly stove will be located, and how you can ensure the flow of fresh air into the room and the outflow of carbon monoxide from it.

Install the stove in a place where there is less traffic; do not allow children to play near the device. By observing these simple rules, you will provide yourself with inexpensive heat during the cold season.

Beautiful a budget option heating and cooking stove - potbelly stove. It is incredibly convenient and easy to set up and operate. Such a device is good to have at the dacha, in the workshop, in and many other places. A water stove can heat several rooms. There are many different models on sale today, from unassuming functional to sophisticated retro. But their price cannot be called low. Therefore, craftsmen who have some experience, have tools and suitable metal, you can try to make an effective potbelly stove with your own hands.


Cutting out from a balloon

The simplest version of a potbelly stove can be made from scrap materials. A thick-walled barrel, an old industrial can or a gas cylinder (empty, of course) is suitable for this.

Resourceful craftsmen they put the pipes into use suitable diameter, rims from dimensional wheels and sheets of metal.

When choosing the initial product for work, you should take into account that metal that is too thin will deform when heated too much, and the product made from it will lose its shape. The optimal thickness of the material is 3-4 mm.

For convenient and effective work on making even a small potbelly stove with your own hands, you will need the following:

Events with balloon No. 1

Several rows of holes are drilled in the bottom of the potential firebox (the side of the cylinder), which will act as a kind of grate. The ash pan is located along it - in our case, a box made of thick metal. It must be equipped with a sealed door that does not allow ash and hot coals to get outside.

The legs of the structure should be welded on the sides of the ash pan. A round hole is made on top of the lying cylinder.

The vertical part of the potbelly stove will stand on it. It is convenient to make the door from the head of the second cylinder; a pipe with a valve is not welded into it - to regulate the combustion intensity. If the door hinges are placed at the top, then the lid, under its weight, will fit tightly to the opening of the firebox, which will reduce air suction to a minimum.

Events with balloon No. 2

A special screen, the panels of which are installed on the rear and side surfaces, will not only increase the operational safety of the system, but also, due to the formation of additional convection flow, will significantly enhance its performance.