The service life of any knife directly depends on the methods of its operation and the procedure for sharpening the blade. Devices for sharpening knives are so diverse that they allow to modern man do not resort to the work of specialists, but do all the work yourself at home. You can use a special tool to sharpen knives. industrial production, as well as any device manufactured with my own hands. It is important to know that simple elements for sharpening knives (for example, a whetstone), which are at hand, can do a bad job and the sharpness of the product will not only not return, but gradually the product will completely become unusable. Moreover, any homemade device for sharpening knives can be based on the use of these simple sharpening devices. Details on how to make your own sharpener can be found below.
A homemade manual machine for sharpening knives, provided that all the requirements for its creation are met, will simplify the sharpening of knives and its performance will be no worse than that of a professional. Proper sharpening includes next rule: each type of cutting product has a certain edge sharpening angle, which must be constant along the entire length of the blade (see table No. 1). A sharpening device that will initially be based on this principle will give the craftsman a sharp knife edge for a long time.
Table No. 1. Sharpening angle in parallel with the type of cutting device
When sharpening the edges should be processed evenly. To fulfill this condition, the following rules must be observed:
The simplest device for sharpening knives is based on the use of an angular frame and a whetstone. The price of such a primitive factory-made device is quite high, as is the price of replaceable whetstones, but making such a device for sharpening knives at home will not be difficult for a craftsman. You will need the following equipment:
First you need to make a pair of wooden corners, placing the bars to each other strictly at an angle of 90º (Fig. 1). Close the resulting wooden corners together parallel to each other as a single whole and drill holes through the diameter of the bolts. Insert bolts into the holes and tighten the corners slightly with nuts.
The point of this invention is that it is possible to sharpen simply by holding the knife vertically in relation to the sharpening surface located at a given angle.
The most important thing is to properly secure the touchstone between wooden corners devices. To do this, using a protractor, you need to set the desired angle of inclination of the touchstone and tighten the bolts tightly to clearly fix the position of the touchstone.
With some modification of the device, you can also fix the position of the knife relative to the sharpening stone. A significant disadvantage of such a machine for manual sharpening it is impossible to smoothly adjust the angle of inclination of the sharpening stone.
Scheme and drawings homemade sharpener for knives from mounting angles, based on the Lansky device, are clearly shown below.
To assemble this device you will need:
In both metal jaws, intended for fixing the keystone, you need to drill for a connecting bolt. Fix the touchstone. A thin smooth knitting needle, previously bent at an angle of 90º, must be inserted and secured in the hole of one of the jaws. In the future, using this knitting needle-shaped clamp, a certain angle of inclination of the touchstone will be set. Such a device for sharpening knives is characterized by a wide range of sharpening angles, which will undoubtedly be of interest to most craftsmen.
Knife sharpening machines with locking blades will attract the attention of those people who want to sharpen a knife not only efficiently, but also quickly. The design, which rigidly fixes the knife blade relative to the sharpening stone moving at a set angle, allows you to accurately set the angle of inclination.
To create such a homemade machine with your own hands you will need:
The die intended for fixing the vertical threaded rod must be drilled through with a 6.5 mm drill. The hole should be located at a distance of 15 mm from the edge of the die, approximately in the center.
Next, in the resulting hole you need to cut a thread for an M8 stud. The wooden block prepared in this way must be screwed to the base at a distance of 265 mm from the edge using ordinary self-tapping screws 50 mm long, screwed in with reverse side grounds.
After securing the wooden part of the holding device, you can begin to attach the iron plate. In the center of the 200*65 mm plate, you need to drill an oblong groove, 90 mm long and about 1 cm wide. The groove should be located from the edge of the clamping plate at a distance of 60 mm. Additionally, you need to drill a hole at a distance of 20 mm from the opposite edge and cut a thread in it for an M8 bolt. Then you need to attach the clamping plate to the previously prepared wooden base. Using another bolt and a suitable washer, you need to fix the clamping plate in the center of the cut groove. The fixation should be clear, but at the same time neat, so as not to damage the surface of the blade.
The most the hard part Assembling this device consists of preparing a control device that will set the sharpening angle of the knife. For this you will need:
It is necessary to drill a couple of holes on a piece of plywood: a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm along a cross-section of 42×18 mm (the distance from the edge on the 42 mm side should be set at 15 mm) and a through hole with a diameter of 5 mm along the side with a cross-section of 42×25 mm (the distance from edges 10 mm). Square pipe should be cut in half so that you get a “U”-shaped bracket with a width of 40 * 15 mm and ears of 20 mm. You need to drill 8 mm holes in the ears, into which an M8 pin will later be inserted. Connect the resulting bracket with furniture hinge using rivets. Using the second part of the furniture bracket, attach a block of plywood to the resulting structure with an M5 bolt.
Connect the touchstone to a guide rod, which is a steel rod with a cross-section of 8 mm. When connecting the keystone and the guide rod, you should strictly ensure that their center lines coincide. If desired, for ease of use of the sharpener, a handle-holder can be attached to the whetstone on the reverse side. All that remains is to secure the whetstone in the guide mechanism, secure it with a thumb and the homemade device for sharpening knives is ready.
Machines with fixed sharpened surfaces are a simple modification of the device for processing household knives. In such a device there is no possibility of adjusting the sharpening angle; however, several different angles for sharpening can be set in advance different types knives. The work of sharpening blades using such machines is not difficult; you just need to move the blade along the abrasive surfaces in the recess.
The device consists of a pair of planes inclined to each other at a certain angle, one of which is a grindstone.
The procedure for creating an electric sharpening machine is simple: it is enough to equip almost any device for sharpening knives and scissors with an electric drive. Like sharpening machine allows you to quickly and efficiently sharpen the product and at the same time provides a better concave shelf at the edge of the blade.
The mechanism of an electric sharpener for sharpening knives contains a guide, which is located along the axis of rotation of the sharpening stone, and with the help of which the blade is adjusted at a given angle. The sharpening angle is set and set by the guide, and the clamping force is determined by the master.
Particular attention must be paid to the speed of sharpening, because... The electric drive allows you to sharpen the product at high speed, as a result of which the surface of the knife heats up. Such surface heating leads to tempering of the hardened steel, as a result of which the knife can quickly lose its hardness and its service life will be noticeably reduced. To prevent tempering of the steel, sharpening should be done on a high-speed electric sharpener in short periods of time and with sufficient breaks to allow the knife to cool.
It will not be difficult for a modern craftsman to make sharpening stones with his own hands. For this you will need:
You can use ready-made powder as an abrasive, or you can prepare your own abrasive, for example, from an old block Green colour still of Soviet production. Such a block can be ground into powder and used in the future as an abrasive.
The wooden die needs to be treated on one side with sandpaper and frequent cuts must be made with a saw. Mix epoxy resin with abrasive chips. Having previously placed the block in a cardboard box glued to the size of the block, cover the prepared surface of the wooden block with a mixture of epoxy resin and abrasive. Once the resin has completely cured, the block is ready for use.
Another option for making your own sharpening stones is to create a sharpening stone from small rectangular glass plates about 5 mm thick. Using double-sided adhesive tape, sandpaper is glued to the surface of the glass plate. The sharpening stone is ready for use.
A simple device for sharpening knives is a tool consisting of a pair wooden slats and pairs of bars with abrasive, with the same geometric dimensions.
Wooden slats should be thoroughly sanded with abrasive sandpaper. Then, after applying auxiliary markings, depending on the sharpening angle of the knife, make cuts to a depth of 15 mm. Insert sanding blocks into the resulting holes so that each groove matches, then secure them with bolts. To give the sharpening device greater stability, the lower part of the surface can be padded with a piece of rubber.
The types of devices for sharpening cutting tools are different and each master will be able to choose the manual machine that will fully satisfy his needs.
Materials
1. Plywood or plastic plate 10 mm thick.
2. Screws, wing screws, washers and rod (0.5 m) with M6 or M8 thread.
3. Used magnets hard drive computer
4. Bearing from an old coffee grinder.
5. Emery (abrasive skins) sheets and bars of different grain sizes: 120, 320, 600, 1500.
1. The stationary part of the machine is made of plywood (plastic). Strips 30 cm long and 5 cm long and (10...12) cm wide are fastened with the letter G from the bottom with an aluminum corner. In the upper part we install 1 or 2 magnets (we fill them epoxy resin). We drill a hole in the lower opposite part and install a threaded rod (height 12...15 cm) with a bearing vertically.
On the surface (to support the knife being sharpened) we install a prepared aluminum (or stainless steel) plate with a slot in the middle (up to 2 mm thick) with a wing clamp.
2. The moving part has two options:
Option A. For sharpening with whetstones.
Option B. For sharpening with abrasive cloths.
The aluminum profile has 4 sides with a width of 25 mm.
A strip of abrasive sandpaper of different grain sizes is glued to each side: 120, 320, 600, 1500. For stickers, I use a stationery glue stick. Afterwards, the used strip of skin is easily removed with a knife and a new strip is glued on.
1. Install the knife to be sharpened as in the photo.
The knife is clearly fixed by a magnet and there is no need to secure it mechanically.
Using a movable stop, we set the knife up to the required position and secure the stop with a wing screw.
We place the moving part of the machine on the knife.
Now we set the sharpening angle by lowering or lifting the bearing using screws.
For the first sharpening, turn the side with the minimum grit number 120 (the coarsest) towards the knife blade.
sharpen until you get a continuous strip on the edge of the blade (0.5...1 mm wide)
We turn the knife over and repeat everything.
We continue the process with sandpaper 320, 600, 1500.
Now you can shave with a knife.
The same procedure for sharpening with sharpening stones. But in this case there are several disadvantages:
1. The middle part of the block wears out over time and then the sharpening angle “floats”, which is not the case in the first option.
2. Bars with different grain sizes need to be changed, but in the first option, to change the grain size you only need to rotate the edge. The bar is removed by pressing the spring with two fingers.
All knives are now fully sharpened. If some of the knives become dull during use. I only sharpen these 600 or 1500 grit knives with two or three strokes on each side of the knife.
Thank you for your attention!
"Useful homemade products"from Gamir Khamitov.
The simplest variation of sharpening is homemade device from wooden and abrasive bars. To make it, you will need two bars of each type - they must be strictly the same dimensions. Wooden products must first be treated with sandpaper to remove all burrs from their surface.
The manufacturing procedure itself will not cause any difficulties. First, mark the wooden blocks: taking into account the required sharpening angle of the knives, draw lines for future fastenings of abrasive workpieces. Then apply sharpening stones to the resulting lines and mark their width on the wood. The next step is the cuts: make them according to the markings on both wooden products cuts of the required slope and depth of 1-1.5 cm. Insert abrasive bars into the recesses and secure them with bolts.
Advice. To prevent the resulting device from slipping on the surface while servicing the knives, attach a rubber gasket to it from below - it will give the device the necessary stability.
A more complex variation of the knife is a stand with a separate support and a sharpening rod attachment. To make it you will need:
Sharpener construction diagram:
To achieve high-quality results, it is not enough to build one of the above-mentioned devices - you also need to master the rules of manual sharpening and understand the order of work.
First, the required sharpening angle of the tool is calculated - it must be maintained throughout the entire sharpening process. Next, using smooth movements alternately “from yourself” and “towards you”, begin to move the blade along the sharpening element - an abrasive or a rod. In one movement it should go along the sharpener from edge to edge. In this case, movements are performed perpendicular to the edge of the blade.
Important! At the end of each pass, the blade should remain on the sharpener and not tear off, otherwise you can not only dull the knife even more, but also deform its side surface.
Move the blade along the sharpener with one side until a burr appears on the back side - then turn the knife over and begin sharpening the other side of the blade in the same way. Continue sharpening alternating sides until the burrs are completely gone. Gradually reduce the pressure of the knife.
The most important parameter for sharpening a knife is the required blade angle. It depends on the scope of application of a particular tool and the range of tasks assigned to it:
Please note that there are also combination knives: they are divided into several zones with different sharpening angles. The advantage of such tools is versatility, the disadvantage is the complexity of maintenance.
So, personally assembling a device for sharpening knives is an excellent way out of a situation where there is no desire to buy professional device or regularly contact a professional to service your tools. Before you are two options for making sharpeners of different levels of complexity - choose which one you can handle, and use it strictly according to the indicated rules, so that the sharpening is not only of high quality, but also safe.
The blades in a cutting tool are the basis of everything. A kitchen knife, grinder wheels, chains for a brush cutter or chainsaw with a well-sharpened blade simplify and speed up the work process.
You can sharpen a tool in a professional workshop or at home if you make a knife sharpening machine with your own hands from simple materials.
For knives used in household use, not needed special tool For sharpening, it is enough to have a sharpener in the form of a bar at hand. But if you have a chainsaw at home, the chains of which also need regular sharpening, or an angle grinder, the disks of which constantly become dull, then it is better to make the installation yourself. The essence of the device is this: a block is attached to the desktop in two variations - with or without adjustment. For those who do not understand the essence of making a sharpener with your own hands from the text, you can watch photo or video master classes.
In order for the device to turn out to be of high quality and safe, you need to calculate in advance the dimensions of the machine for sharpening knives with your own hands and select necessary materials. The first thing to do is calculate the angle between the working part of the cutting blade and the block.
Next comes the selection of base materials (support) and stone. You can make a machine from glass covered with sandpaper or stone attached to a support. The first option is less expensive, and sandpaper can be changed at any time, but a more reliable installation is made of stone.
In order for the machine for sharpening knives according to the drawings with your own hands to turn out perfect and last for more than one year, you need to take the advice of experts. The first thing to take into account is what type of blade will be sharpened.
After all, an individual angle is selected for each knife:
If you need to make a sharpening machine, you will need the following materials:
If you want a universal device, then you need to make several retractable bolts at once at a distance apart so that you can change the tilt of the beam if necessary. This can be done using simple measuring tools and drills. After this, you can cut the slats to a convenient length.
The inconvenience of such a machine is that you will have to independently control the position of the knife relative to the beam. If you don’t want to think about anything at all while sharpening knives, scissors or chains, then you should make a more complex machine.
Read each step carefully and, where possible, draw a drawing for each step indicating all dimensions - this will be an excellent help in your work:
8. Make a regulator:
The universal sharpening tool is ready. Cut out several templates with different angles so that you can use them as a guide when working. Remember that pre-created drawings will help you at every stage of creating a tool - do not neglect this step, otherwise it will be very difficult to avoid mistakes.
No matter what you need to sharpen - simple kitchen knife, garden or nail scissors or chains for a chainsaw - such a tool will cope with any job if you set the angle correctly and remember to use it when the need arises.
Almost every person in life is faced with the question of sharpening knives. After all, any knife, regardless of its quality, sooner or later becomes dull. Therefore, the blade must be carefully maintained.
In stores today you can choose any sharpener from a huge variety.
In general, there are several main types of such devices. Namely:
Oil-based, on the surface of which there is oil, specifically to save material.
Water, similar to the previous one, but water is used here.
Natural, industrially processed.
Artificial, made from non-natural materials.
Rubber, extremely rare. Completely inconvenient to use.
Every knife sharpening has its moments.
For example, Japanese independent type requires sharpening special attention quite an experienced specialist, since the Japanese type of steel is quite fragile. To sharpen them, manufacturers recommend using different water stones with different grain sizes.
Housewives use store-bought sharpeners for sharpening. When using several knives, their sharpness remains longer.
But this is very important, even though it takes a lot of time and effort.
For this it is necessary to create special conditions. Thanks to them, the knife will remain sharp for a very long time.
Therefore, it is important to choose the right angle at which you will sharpen your knives. According to the basic rule in this matter, than smaller angle, under which the knife is sharpened, the stronger the cutting edge will be.
It is important not to forget that the next sharpening depends on the maximum sharpness. The sharper the knife, the faster you will have to sharpen it. At the same time, making it “workable” again will be much more difficult.
The purpose of sharpening is to restore the sharpness of the blade. To do this, take care of the correct sharpening angle. That is, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which complies with the standards from a technological point of view.
To check how well the sharpening is done, cut the material that is cut by the blade of this particular knife. If the material is cut simply, you will do everything absolutely correctly.
In order to choose the right angle correctly, it is important to have some experience, without which it is quite difficult to cope with this issue. And even more so if there is no special equipment for this.
After all, if you hold a knife with your hands during the sharpening process, it is quite difficult to achieve its ideal “sharpness” as a result.
Sometimes it happens that the knife needs to be sharpened quickly. A block of wood, a hacksaw, sandpaper, a ceramic plate, a chisel, etc. may come in handy here.
And there are even those who can sharpen them on a foundation made of cement and sand. But this method is not recommended at all. After all, there are a lot of other and more proven ones!
The best of all is to make a homemade device. This is not only convenient, but also hardly distinguishable from the factory one.
Knives of this type can be handled by an experienced professional craftsman who has not only knowledge, but also skills in this matter. The process is actually quite complicated.
At the same time, it is quite difficult to find equipment for sharpening such a knife in a simple store. You should know what will help here modern instrument, in which you can set low speed with water cooling.
It is necessary to use a new stone on which Smooth surface. The best will be aquatic view stone
In addition, without specific experience and sharpening skills planing knives, you can also contact a service station, which probably has equipment such as a sharpener.
