Those who have ever used an electric drill have encountered difficulties when it is necessary to make a bunch of holes. It's a disaster if there are holes in the board, but making holes in the metal? For this, the industry came up with drilling machine. Those who have it are very lucky, and those who don’t have it - prepare your pockets.
Personally, my pocket is small, so I can’t afford a factory drilling machine. Well, Chinese, made of tin, I can certainly afford it, but it’s bullshit. Soviet, semi-complete ones are unreasonably expensive. In principle, I didn’t consider magazine racks for drills, they were too childish. Wandering around the Internet I found a lot of homemade products, but the availability of turning work stopped me. You can order a couple of parts from a turner, but no one wants to share normal drawings, and when you design a part yourself, a mess will always come out. If a jamb comes out, run back to the turner and ask him to fix it. But one day I came across interesting video from Zhelezjaka about homemade stand for drill. Simple design, repeatable and versatile. While watching the video from Zhelezjaka There were no analogues of this design yet.
I was going to make this stand for a whole year, maybe more. After going on vacation, I finally started work. I made some adjustments to the design; they do not fundamentally change the machine, but they unify the materials and reduce the manufacturing time of some elements. I tried to use the minimum amount of purchased material, I tried to use the garbage that I had. But we still couldn’t do without shopping. From the main one, I bought an additional pipe for the guide, a corner and a strip, 1 meter for each position.
Now let's look at the manufacturing process. Actually, my carriage guide is also made of square pipe 40x40x3 mm. I bought iron in a small hardware store; rolled metal products are stored there almost under storage. open air and doesn't really shine with quality. But there is one advantage to this: you can touch everything there and choose better. And so it happened. From the beginning I wanted to take a pipe with a wall thickness of 2 mm, but the seller and I were unable to choose an even piece. I took a wall thickness of 3 mm; thick-walled pipes are much smoother. Steel is steel and traces of corrosion are an integral part of it. Therefore, I had to clean almost the entire rental, especially the guide. I did not bring him to a state of cat pride.
I forgot to say that in advance I prepared a set of preliminary drawings, according to which I made the basic elements. A set of final drawings will be posted at the end of the article. Blank to size mode. Here is the first deviation from the author's project, I took a corner for the carriage and bracket 45x45x4 mm. A 40x40 pipe fits perfectly into it, there is no need to cut anything and an excellent installation gap is formed (seen in the photo below). I tried to repeat the author's manufacturing technology.
I put some sandpaper on it, clamped it on the guide with clamps, and welded everything together from the heart. And then remove the figurines, clamping it so that “mother, don’t worry”! I was able to remove the rack bracket only by knocking it against the rest of the 45th corner. Next, I cut the entire corner, welded the carriage, put twice as much sandpaper and that’s it…. I can no longer remember how many swear words were wasted, cigarettes were smoked and everything that moved nearby was cursed, and it was impossible to separate one from the other. How the author makes everything so simple, I don’t know. And the technology, in my opinion, should be as follows: put double-folded sandpaper -> compress it with clamps -> weld the edges on all four corners -> completely boil one of the edges -> let it cool completely -> try to remove it from the mandrel. If it comes off the frame, then weld the second edge. If it doesn’t work, then cut off the tacks on the uncooked edge and lightly remove the guide. In the photo below there are already welded blanks; the smallest one will not be used.
I made Stanina out of what I had. And I had almost a meter of channel 8. I adjusted the length of the bed to the length of the rest of the square pipe that remained after making the guide. Below is a picture of the installation process of the rack bracket. To be honest, this bed design is not very good. The shelves of the channel are all crooked, one piece is concave, the other is convex. Horror, not rental. He pretended to set it at a right angle, although it was unclear to what plane. I will deal with perpendicularity later.
and back. The rear panel has two threaded holes. These holes will serve to secure the machine in a horizontal position when processing wood.
And fasteners to secure the stand in a vertical position. A single bolt is welded to provide grounding. The holes for the wires are not visible here, but they are in the drawings.
About the adjustable feet. By some chance, there were no standard legs from a refrigerator or washing machine, I’m just amazed. I had to make it from a bolt and an enlarged washer, the price was a couple of kopecks. But I had those things into which the legs are screwed, but tall nuts would fit perfectly in their place.
The drum is the one that will spin the cable. I took a creative approach to making this part. It works exactly the same, but is designed differently. Steel bars with a diameter greater than 10 mm home shed It’s hard to find and my shed is no exception. Plus, I immediately resolved the issue of the removable handle. As an axis I used an M10 bolt with a short GOST thread. Cutting off the excess from it I got a smooth axle. The bolt head will serve as a kind of element for engaging the axle with the handle. The outer part of the drum will serve as water pipe. If you do not have such a pipe in your metal waste, then you can replace it with a pipe purchased at the nearest plumbing store. To center the axle we had to make bushings, so to speak, manual method, without lathe. To do this, I clamped two M10 nuts on the remaining bolt scrap (don’t throw away the scrap, it will come in handy later), inserted it into a drill and sharpened the entire structure using an electric sharpener. Since there are no threads on the bolt trim, the threads in the bushings also need to be drilled. The bolt head has a hole with an M5 thread for attaching the handle. It turned out pretty good.
In the picture below, I have already welded the bushings to the axle, the main thing is not to forget to put on one of the eyes first. There are holes in the outer race of the drum through which the race will be welded to the bushings. All dimensions and clearances are indicated in the drawings.
Here's the result:
Carriage. There’s not much to tell here, we’ll assemble everything according to the drawings. Just one addition. In the original, the carriage is locked with one of the adjusting bolts. After all, they are adjustable, so as not to touch them, so after welding all the parts, I made an additional threaded hole specifically for the locking bolt. I made the threads for the adjusting bolts only with a rough tap, in order to prevent spontaneous unwinding.
View from the other side. Sorry about my welds, I cook as I can.
The handle is also a lever. After looking at the photo, don’t throw tomatoes. In my version, the lever is made of horn-shaped spanner wrench on 17. It had a broken cape, so I gave the cape a second life.
On the one hand, I welded a homemade washer from a strip onto the cap part of the key.
Next is an element that is not in original design- this is an emphasis. This stop is attached to the top of the guide post and is used when securing the machine in a horizontal position. The holes for mounting to the stand are not made coaxially to minimize rotation of the stop.
Another new detail. I called it "table". Since there is no plane on my bed, I had to twist around. It is made from a piece of laminated chipboard, not the best option, but that's it for now. With the help of screws I have the opportunity to set the working plane perpendicular to the stand.
This is what it looks like. The photo also shows an auxiliary carriage on which a ruler and a tool for woodworking will be placed.
And here you can see the table adjustment element.
It's time to make a bracket for attaching the drill. And again the materials that I had were used. Clamp made of strip 25x4 mm, pipe extension 30x30x2. This strip fits perfectly inside the pipe, making it easier to attach one to the other. And this rotation of the clamp ensures perfect alignment. The clamp is made by tapping a strip around a pipe with a diameter of 40 - 42 mm.
A little closer.
And brew it carefully. I was worried about the quality of these seams, since this is the weakest place in the entire structure.
Let's put the welder aside for a while and get to the drill. As I already said, I had been planning to make the machine for a whole year. During this time I acquired a drill, which I don’t mind. It was given to me as a non-working one. The wire was simply crushed inside and over time it burned out in this place. I corrected the wire, but the drill, apparently, is very tired and full of backlash. The first thing to replace was the cartridge and rolling bearings. The shank bushing was also broken.
To be honest, I would rip the hands off these designers who are in a simple drill added ratchet function. There is no sense, the bearings are broken and the axial movement of the cartridge adds to all the delights. The most interesting thing, at least in this drill, is that the ratchet unit is the same size as the outer race of bearing No. 608. My attempts to knock the ratchet out of the silumin cage were unsuccessful; I had to cut off the teeth with a hacksaw and go to the market to look for a bronze bushing. And at the market they charged an absurd price for this sleeve, which I was very offended by and basically left with nothing. In place of the bronze gold bushing, the inner race from the same 608 bearing fits perfectly in size. One bad thing is that this is a one-time replacement; next time you will have to change the bushing along with the cartridge shaft. Let's see how long he lives. To eliminate the axial movement of the shaft, instead of a repelling spring, I installed a bushing made from a plumbing fitting, and placed a machined washer on the other side. The bearings have been replaced, the backlash has been eliminated, and the mechanisms have been lubricated.
Attention, the faint of heart, please do not look at the next picture! Since this drill was specially reserved for the machine, I tried to make it so that it could only work in this machine. I cut the handle. From the barbarian... The start button was removed, the reverse lever remained in its original place, the cut was covered with a neat lid.
And what did I get in the end? I placed the button in the cavity of the frame, made a threaded hole in the front panel and tightened the adjusting screw there. Thus, I received a remote speed control unit. You tighten the screw, it gradually presses a button that changes the speed of the drill. Separately mounted a toggle switch for turning on the machine.
Below is the process of assembling the spindle bracket. I attached a guide from the printer to the chuck, which made it possible to relatively accurately align the axis of the tool perpendicular to the table.
Here is the welded bracket. I immediately made a hole in the table and bed. I cut a thread in the bed to screw in the center to hold the wooden workpiece during turning work. Then he began to prepare parts for the manufacture of a tool rest (Podruchnik is a stand for a cutting tool on a lathe).
And here he is ready. It has simplified functionality; there is no height adjustment. I have never worked as a woodturner in my life, or metal lathe either, I will learn and try.
And in principle the machine is ready, almost maximum load. The first serious hole was made with a 13 mm drill front panel machine for installing the toggle switch, let me remind you that the panel is made of a strip 4 mm thick. The result exceeded all expectations, without preliminary drilling and a minimum of effort, without even straining, I drilled a hole in a matter of seconds. I was glad, the state of euphoria passed and noble traces of young rust began to catch my eye. I was in a hurry to assemble everything and didn’t bother to paint it in detail. Now we have to take everything apart.
As always, I waited until it got colder to start painting. Therefore, I had to paint in the barn, it’s not a pleasant pleasure, paint on the street. I chose green color, this association has been around since childhood - if it’s a machine, then it’s green.
Painting the bed. I was too lazy to take out the wire, a collective farm is a collective farm.
The paint has dried and here is the result of the work:
On the other side:
And in the lathe position:
Here are the promised drawings. I ask all norm inspectors and very smart people not to comment on the drawings, or even look at them :)) joke. Enjoy it for your health! I even made a specification according to which you can estimate the volume necessary materials. But I must warn you, do not blindly believe the drawings, double-check, I am not a robot and can sometimes make mistakes.
The result is a great tool. I cannot yet fully evaluate the turning option, since I only have a chisel instead of cutters. But as a drill there are a couple of “buts”:
And do not forget to use personal protective equipment when working. Do not violate safety requirements, no matter how stupid and ridiculous they may seem.
You don't have to spend money on a benchtop drill press because it's not that difficult to make your own. To do this, you will need to purchase, manufacture or use used parts. We will tell you about creating several designs, and you can choose your model for assembly.
Almost every owner who is building or renovating his house or apartment, repairing household and garden equipment, various crafts made of metal and wood. But for some operations, a drill is not enough: you need special precision, you want to drill a hole at a right angle in a thick board, or you just want to make your work easier. To do this, you will need a machine that can be made on the basis of various drives, machine parts or household appliances, other available material.
The type of drive is a fundamental difference in the designs of homemade drilling machines. Some of them are made using a drill, mostly electric, others using motors, most often from unnecessary household appliances.
The most common design can be considered a machine made from a hand or electric drill, which can be made removable, so that it can be used outside the machine, or stationary. In the latter case, the switching device can be moved to the frame for greater convenience.
The main elements of the machine are:
The base or frame can be made from a solid cut of hard wood, furniture board or chipboard. Some people prefer a metal plate, channel or tee as a base. The bed must be massive to ensure structural stability and compensate for vibrations during drilling to produce neat and accurate holes. The size of the frame made of wood is at least 600x600x30 mm, of sheet steel - 500x500x15 mm. For greater stability, the base can be made with eyes or holes for bolts and attached to the workbench.
The stand can be made of timber, round or square steel pipe. Some craftsmen use the frame of an old photographic enlarger, a substandard school microscope, and other parts that have a suitable configuration, strength and weight as a base and stand.
The drill is secured using clamps or brackets with a hole in the center. The bracket is more reliable and provides greater accuracy when drilling.
The feed mechanism is needed to move the drill vertically along the stand and can be:
Depending on the type of mechanism adopted, the type and structure of the rack will also differ.
The drawings and photos show the basic designs of tabletop drilling machines, which can be made from electrical and hand drill.
With a spring mechanism: 1 - stand; 2 - metal or wooden profile; 3 — slider; 4 - hand drill; 5 — clamp for fastening the drill; 6 — screws for fastening the clamp; 7 - spring; 8 — square for securing the stand 2 pcs.; 9 - screws; 10 — stop for the spring; 11 — wing bolt for fastening the stop; 12 - base of the machine
With spring-lever mechanism
With a spring-hinged mechanism: 1 - bed; 2 — washer; 3 — M16 nut; 4 — shock-absorbing struts 4 pcs.; 5 - plate; 6 — bolt M6x16; 7 - power supply; 8 — thrust; 9 - spring; 10 — M8x20 bolt with nut and washers; 11 — drill chuck; 12 - shaft; 13 - cover; 14 — handle; 15 — bolt M8x20; 16 — holder; 17 — rack; 18 — cup with bearing; 19 - engine
With hinged springless mechanism
A stand operating on the principle of a screw jack: 1 - frame; 2 - guide groove; 3 - M16 thread; 4 - bushing; 5 - nut welded to the bushing; 6 - drill; 7 - handle, when rotated, the drill moves up or down
Drilling and milling machine: 1 - base of the machine; 2 — supports for the table lifting plate 2 pcs.; 3 - lifting plate; 4 — handle for lifting the table; 5 - movable drill holder; 6 — additional rack; 7 — screw for fixing the drill holder; 8 — clamp for fastening the drill; 9 — main rack; 10 — lead screw; 11 - drum with Vernier scale
Machine made from a car jack and drill
The carriage is made of furniture guides
Mini-machine from a decommissioned microscope
Base and stand from an old photographic enlarger
Machine made from a hand drill: 1 - bed; 2 — steel clamps; 3 — grooves for attaching a drill; 4 — drill fastening nut; 5 - drill; 6 - slider; 7 — guide tubes
Video 1. Step by step guide for an inexpensive machine. The bed and stand are wooden, the basis of the mechanism is a furniture guide
Video 2. Drilling machine - jack from Zhiguli and drill
Video 3. Spring-lever stand for drill
Video 4. Step by step creation steel rack for drill
A steering rack for a car and a drill are quite massive products, so the frame should also be massive and, preferably, with the ability to attach the machine to a workbench. All elements are welded, since connections with bolts and screws may not be sufficient.
The frame and support post are welded from channels or other suitable rolled products, about 5 mm thick. The steering rack is secured to a stand, which should be 70-80 mm longer than the rack, through the eyes of the steering column.
To make the machine more convenient to use, the drill control is placed in a separate block.
Video 5. Drilling machine based on a steering rack from Moskvich
Assembly procedure for tabletop drilling machines:
All fastenings must be made as securely as possible. It is advisable to join one-piece steel structures by welding. When using any kind of guides, you need to make sure that there is no lateral play during movement.
Advice! To fix the part in which the hole is drilled, the machine can be equipped with a vice.
You can also find ready-made stands for drills on sale. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the weight of the structure and the size of the working surface. Lightweight (up to 3 kg) and inexpensive (up to 1.5 thousand rubles) racks are suitable for making holes in a thin plywood sheet.
If there is no drill on the farm or it is not advisable to use it in the machine, you can make a design based on asynchronous motor, for example, from the old washing machine. The design and manufacturing process of such a machine are quite complex, so it is best to make it by a craftsman with sufficient experience in turning and milling work, and assembling electrical circuits.
To familiarize yourself with the design, we provide assembly drawings and detailing, as well as the characteristics of assembly units in the specifications.
Parts and materials for manufacturing the machine are shown in the table:
Table 1
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300x175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main stand | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and has an M12 thread cut into it |
| 4 | Spring | L = 100-120 mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | Lead screw | Tr16x2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Tr16x2 | |
| 9 | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | ||
| 10 | Lead screw bracket | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | Washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of drive pulleys for V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one stream to another |
| 15 | Electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | ||
| 18 | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | ||
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, from wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | ||
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | ||
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | The drive V-belt has a “zero” profile, so the grooves of the pulley block also have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Network cable with plug | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool chuck no. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head provides both translational and rotational movement. It is mounted on its own base - a duralumin console.
Parts and materials for manufacturing the spindle head are shown in the table:
table 2
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Steel circle Ø 12 mm | |
| 2 | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm | |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial rolling bearing No. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers-spacers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Special M6 screw with knurled button | |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm | |
| 10 | Bearing | Angular contact |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
Drilling machine assembled
The electrical circuit depends on the type of engine.
Simple electrical diagram for factory machine 2M112
Mini-machines for drilling circuit boards by radio amateurs also borrow the drive from various low-power devices. In this case, cutters for cutting photographs are used as levers, soldering irons, and collet pencils instead of a chuck. The drilling site is illuminated with LED flashlights—there are plenty of opportunities for technical creativity.
A simple electrical circuit for controlling an electric motor
Video 7. Mini machine for drilling circuit boards
A drill is a multifunctional tool, but human hands Given its weight, it is difficult to obtain special drilling accuracy. A do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill according to the proposed drawings may come in handy. If the drill is an everyday tool, it can be secured to the bracket with clamps. When a power tool is included in a permanent composition, the ballast assembly of the machine can be removed.
The drill press is used by those who create homemade items. They are made with imagination; it is difficult to find the necessary parts in the store and the meaning is lost. Craftsmen love to create everything themselves. Often such a craftsman is faced with the question of the accuracy of the holes that he must drill. Everyone knows that there is no way to accurately perform work under a canopy or on your knees. You will need a holder to secure the tool with the equipment.
Which drill to use depends on the nature of the craftsman’s hobby. The production of electronic circuit boards for radio amateurs requires a drill cross-section of 0.3 mm, manually at the slightest deviation from right angle the drill will burst. Only a small drilling machine will save the situation, but it is expensive. There is only one way out - to do it yourself.
On your own machine, created from scrap materials, you can:
The machine is a drilling machine, which means it is assumed to use a drill assembled with or a quick-clamping one. The tool must be mounted securely vertical rack and have freedom of movement up and down. The stand must be installed vertically and secured to a massive plate underneath, which is called the frame. The tool is simple to describe, but in order to achieve precision in performing operations, it is necessary to create a well-calibrated design. In special publications and the Internet you can find drawings of a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands from various materials.
Any tool created according to company standards is equipped with safety elements - protective screens, locks against accidental activation. When creating your tool, you need to take care of protection and take measures so that the machine does not fall into the hands of children.
Drilling is accompanied by strong vibration. Small shocks destroy the structure of materials; precise execution of operations cannot be achieved. Vibration is dampened by soft pads, which are mounted in places where the tool is attached, and a massive frame - vibration waves are dampened. Poor assembly, misalignment, and a shift in the center of gravity contribute to slight trembling of the instrument. All moving parts of a homemade drilling machine from a drill fit seamlessly, with minimal gaps. 
To help the master who is building a drilling machine from a drill for the first time with his own hands, drawings are offered. Assemble the structure from wooden blocks and use furniture board Any person with basic carpentry skills can use the frame. The wooden structure is fastened with self-tapping screws. 
Corners are used to fasten elements. The drill attachment unit can be made dismountable, on removable clamps, or the tool can be firmly built in. An important part of the device will be a movable sled device, along which the drill with drill moves during operation. Often, furniture telescopic guides are used to create runners. It is simply and clearly shown how to assemble a drilling machine with your own hands in the video:
The proposed option is universal and works equally well with metal, wood and other materials. But it is cumbersome and for small operations craftsmen make miniature machines using a tripod from a photo enlarger and a welded frame. In some cases, the steering column from the car is used. Metal frame structures require metalworking skills. How to make a drilling machine is decided depending on the availability of available parts and the purpose of the device.
A perfect example unusual design small device For radio technicians, a machine made from an old school microscope and a UAZ car windshield wiper motor will serve. The engine produces a lot of torque, but to use it you will need to lengthen the shaft. Its power and torque are sufficient to drill through foil-thin sheets of metal. The bracket itself needs modification - the fine adjustment and microscopic unit are removed and a miniature engine is mounted.
A newly manufactured machine requires additional adjustment. Test run carried out on a table where all irrelevant items have been removed. The machine is considered correctly assembled and ready for further work if:
When drilling, remember to heat up the device, periodically lift the equipment when drilling deep, you can use liquid for cooling.
Always remember, fast cutting tool is a source of increased danger. Changeover can only be carried out on de-energized equipment. Eyes should always be protected with goggles.
A selection of various drilling machines, created by the hands of masters, for all occasions confirms inexhaustible ingenuity craftsmen. You can buy everything in a store, but creating your own instrument is worthy of a master.
Drilling work is not particularly difficult and often does not require other equipment other than conventional drill. Therefore, home workshops may not have a drilling machine. However, if you have a home-made benchtop drilling machine, you can breathe a sigh of relief, as some of your worries will be resolved on their own.
Sometimes situations arise when an electric or hand drill is not able to provide the desired parameters of the hole being drilled. Often in amateur radio practice it is necessary to make printed circuit boards, where many holes must be drilled that have a small diameter. Drilling holes with a diameter of 0.5-1 millimeter with a hand or electric drill or a large drilling machine is inconvenient, and the drill may break.
Purchasing industrial drilling machines is not always economically feasible, and then you can make a homemade drilling machine. Many people choose mini drilling machines, because, despite the apparent complexity of the design, they are actually very simple equipment and consist of four parts.
A homemade drilling machine is intended for drilling through and blind holes in solid material, for example, drilling, reaming, countersinking, cutting out sheet materials discs and internal thread cutting. Drilling and milling machines can perform milling, surface grinding, inclined face milling and horizontal milling.
To perform the above operations, a countersink, drill, tap, reamer and other tools are used. Using special jigs and additional tools, you can cut a hole with a large diameter, bore the hole and grind the hole precisely.
Drilling machines are of the following types: single- and multi-spindle semi-automatic, vertical drilling, jig boring, radial drilling, horizontal boring, horizontal boring, diamond boring. Models are designated by numbers and letters. The first number indicates the group to which the machine is classified, the second - the type of machine, the third and fourth - the dimensions of the machine or the dimensions of the workpiece being processed.
The letter that appears after the first digit means that a certain model of drilling machine is modernized. If the letter is located at the end, then it should be understood that a different drilling machine was made based on the main model. Among all drilling machines, we can distinguish the following main types of universal machines: multi- and single-spindle, radial and horizontal drilling.
Depending on the area of use, there are special and universal drilling equipment. Wide Application They also found specialized machines for mass production and large-scale industry, which are manufactured on the basis of universal machines by equipping them with multi-spindle thread-cutting and drilling heads and thanks to the automation of the work cycle.
A drilling machine, like other technological machines, consists of the following components: transmission mechanism, engine, controls and working element. The transmission mechanism is designed to transmit movement from an electric motor to a working element, which is a drill, which is mounted in a chuck mounted on a spindle - a rotating shaft.
Rotation to spindle from electric motor transmitted using a belt drive. By turning the handle, the chuck and drill bits can be lowered or raised using a rack and pinion drive.
On the front panel of the drilling machine there are buttons to turn the electric motor off and on. The design of the drilling machine is quite simple: the machine is turned on by pressing one of the outer buttons, depending on the desired direction of spindle rotation; the machine can be turned off by pressing the middle red button.
A vertical column screw is fixedly attached to the base of the machine. By turning the handle, you can move the spindle head up or down along the screw; the second handle serves to fix it in the required position. Control the depth of blind holes using the provided scale.
Depending on the workpiece material, it is necessary different speed drilling. To do this, it is customary to set a certain spindle rotation speed by throwing a belt drive onto pulleys of various diameters. Factory workshops use more than complex circuits drilling machines than were just discussed.
Before drilling using a homemade machine, you need to remove all unnecessary things from the workbench. The workpiece with the marked centers of the holes must be secured in a vice. Next, insert the drill required diameter into the cartridge and secured with a special key. To check the correctness of the work performed, the machine is turned on for a while.
If you have installed the drill correctly, its tip will not describe a circle when rotating. If it is installed skewed and its beating occurs, then the drilling machine must be turned off and the drill secured according to the instructions of the drilling machine. Then turn the feed handle, lower the drill and install the vice with the workpiece in such a way that the core coincides with the tip of the drill.
Turn on the machine and drill a hole, press the feed handle smoothly, without much effort or jerking. When drilling a through hole, place the workpiece on wooden block so that the drill does not break and the machine table does not deteriorate.
When drilling a deep hole, remove the drill from the hole from time to time and cool it by dipping it in a bowl of coolant. It is recommended to reduce the pressure on the handle at the end of drilling. After drilling the hole, smoothly turn the feed wheel, raise the spindle to its highest position and turn off the machine.
A drilling machine is easy to make with your own hands. In everyday life, it is beneficial to have on hand devices and tools for performing carpentry and plumbing work. After the obsolescence of many household appliances The owners still have many useful spare parts and electric motors in their arsenal, from which they can, if desired, make such useful equipment as a drilling machine.
The most simple solution You will be able to assemble a mini drilling machine with your own hands using a drill. The drill weighs a little, so the stand can be made from chipboard, boards or sheet metal. For comfortable work on something like this homemade machine it is necessary that it be quite massive to absorb the vibration of the drill and sufficiently stable.
It is important to obtain a right angle between the holder and the base. Typically, the drill is attached using two clamps (it is better to place a rubber gasket between the clamp and the drill) to a board that moves along guides that are attached to this movable board and to another stationary board. The downward and upward movement of the movable board is controlled using a lever associated with it.
The downward movement of the lever can be limited by a block that supports the lever in the lower position. The fixed board is attached to the horizontal pipe through a flange. The horizontal pipe is attached to the vertical pipe, which is attached through a flange to the base of the machine (to a thick wide board) or to a workbench.
The height of the bar, which limits the lower position of the lever, is adjustable, which allows you to change the drilling depth. Make 4 holes in the movable board that are intended for fixing the drill clamps. On the side facing the stationary board, narrow slats are glued, which are lubricated with wax for better glide.
The drill, in addition to the clamps, is fixed with two rods that support it from below. Since with such fastening the shape of the drill does not strictly ensure the vertical position of the drill, you need to glue a strip to the board to compensate for this.
To ensure free movement of the drill, the guides must be prepared strictly in the vertical direction. They can be a protrusion metal profiles made of aluminum, which are screwed with threaded screws to the boards along the entire length. Having assembled a strong and stable structure, it is necessary to fasten the profile guides strictly perpendicular to the plane of the base and parallel to each other.
In the photo of self-made drilling machines, the attachment points to the moving platform of the drill and the installation method for the guide profiles are clearly visible. The guides must ensure high-quality pressing of the movable board to the stationary board. The main condition for this is the absence of distortions and backlash.
When assembling the lever, remember that you cannot tighten the moving parts; it is customary to use a second nut to lock the nuts. The rail that leads to the moving board from the lever should be rounded at the end. After reducing the pressure forces, to automatically raise the drill to the top position, it is necessary to set the springs to compression or tension.
One end of the spring is attached to the horizontal pipe with wire, and the other end is attached to the bottom of the movable board. When the spring is not flexible enough and a stationary board interferes, this is done through a rope.
The drawing of a drilling machine, which is assembled on the basis of a motor from a washing machine, differs from the one discussed above in the most complex mechanics and type of electric drive. Asynchronous motor from old washing machine is heavier and has more vibration. The shaking will be stronger the further away the engine is from the rack.
Intense vibration causes inaccurate drilling and drill breakage. There are two options - make a powerful frame so that when the drill is lowered, the drive also lowers, or place the motor motionless closer to the holder stand, then only the working part of the drilling machine will move.
The second method involves a more complex execution. Here you need a pulley and a belt that allow you to regulate the rotation speed. There are many solutions without a belt drive with a drive located against the wall. They are much easier to assemble, but the assembly discussed below takes a non-standard approach, and certain techniques used may be useful.
Vibrations still remain, but they are so minimal that when drilling iron with a 0.7 mm drill, the drill remains intact. At home about high precision When manufacturing such mechanisms, one can only dream; it is still necessary to strive for maximum fit of parts. The characteristics of the drilling machine and its performance will depend on this.
The moving part of the machine consists of an axial hexagon, a tube suitable size, a clamping ring and two bearings and a tube with internal thread to secure the cartridge. A pulley is subsequently placed on the hexagon, part of the future transmission system. The tube must first be sawed lengthwise at both ends with a grinder, and make the cuts on top deep enough to ensure reliable adhesion to the hexagon.
The entrance must be made tight and driven in with a hammer. If donning occurs without special effort, then you need to select another handset. Then fill the compression ring and bearings. The height adjustment system consists of a pipe with notches and a gear. To make cuts accurately, you need to roll out the plasticine and drive a gear along it.
An imprint will appear that can be easily measured and appropriate markings made on the adjusting pipe. The length of this ladder must correspond maximum height, onto which you can lift the drill. Press the axle with hexagon and bearings into the slotted pipe.
Such a design will move back and forth vertically in a stationary frame tube as the gear rotates. At the same time, the axis rotates in a horizontal plane through a belt drive. The frame is made from a metal corner using bolts. The entire structure is mounted on the wall.
And finally, remember that the first option for assembling a drilling machine is preferable. The assembly option proposed by the second can be supplemented or improved. However, such a simplified solution deserves attention.
For all those who like to make a product with their own hands, it will be an excellent helper. Such a unit, in a garage or at home, will allow you to accurately and accurately make holes, mill wood, drill broken bolts out of threads, and so on. However, buying a drilling machine can be quite expensive, and why spend extra money when you can easily make a drilling machine yourself.
Drilling machine drawing
Manufacturing requires a minimum of expensive materials. These are basically improvised tools that can be found in any garage. Of course, the material must meet the requirements of the device.
For example, for the manufacture of a large stationary machine, without metal frame not necessary, and in the case of a tabletop unit, only wooden materials can be used.
For all types of structures, three fundamental factors will be required:
Of course, the feed lever should be placed under working hand master, left or right. However, this is not the only condition for convenience. The drill feed lever should not be long, so as not to interfere with work, but not short, so that it is easier to apply pressure on the part. For a better idea of the length of the lever, it is worth considering the drawings of factory drilling machines. There the length is adjusted to the desired size.
Regardless of which drilling mechanism will be used, it should be secured with the smallest possible error factor. To do this, it is best to attach the drilling mechanism to a vertical rod. However, you can use a solid wood panel with guide rails.
Without a reliable frame, a homemade drilling machine will not only perform poorly, but will also become dangerous to use. The base of the tool should be twice as wide as the volume of the structure. This width will allow the structure to be stable during the necessary pressure. In this case, the feed lever should not protrude beyond the edges of the bed. This rule does not apply to stationary machines, because they are fixed to the surface of the table or made with an individual table.
DIY drilling machine
You can make a homemade drilling machine using several driving force options:
In this case, for each type of structure the characteristics of a stationary, portable or desktop machine will be determined. In the case of an electric motor, you can make a stationary or tabletop device, and in the case of an electric drill, you get either a desktop or portable unit. A hand drill can even have the character of a portable device that does not require power.
In order to get a good drilling machine from a drill with your own hands, the design for this tool is better to make a tabletop one. In this case, you should avoid fixing the machine to the table. An electronic drill is a fairly popular tool, so it will be useful if it can be removed from the machine. In this case, the structure on the table will be redundant.
A benchtop filler machine will require the following materials: 
For the frame, it is better to use a metal box with a wall thickness of 3 mm. A square pipe stand is welded to the box. This stand will serve as a barbell or tripod. Next, a tight slider should be attached to the tripod, which will hold the drill holder and the drill itself.
It will be difficult to select an exactly suitable slider, so it should be made of metal plates. The free space between the slider and the tripod should be no more than 0.5 mm, despite the fact that the tripod will be perfectly level.
Further sequence of actions:
Such machines perform well as stationary tools. To figure out how to make a drilling machine from an electric motor, you will have to look at the drawings and delve into the field of electrical engineering.
The machine will require a two-phase motor, which will greatly simplify the connection and expand the range of application of the unit. Such a motor is connected to phase and neutral wires. Incorrect connection will only affect the direction of rotation. If the rotation is in reverse side, then the wires are swapped and the problem is solved.
When making a stationary structure for drilling, you will need:
The operating principle of this machine is very simple. The motor drives the drill head thanks to a belt drive. In this case, the engine and the drill chuck are inseparable during operation and move along a vertical line simultaneously, thanks to their joint fastening.
It is very convenient to use a drilling machine from a hand drill in cases where it is not possible to connect an electric drill to a power source. To make the machine, you can use a wooden frame:
Metal runners are attached to the vertical wall (they can be taken from old furniture or bought in a store), and a hand drill holder is attached to them. This way, the drill will move up and down freely, however, this is not enough. To prevent the drill from falling under its own weight, a spring of the required elasticity is attached to the drill holder and the base of the machine.
Don’t forget about the handle that you will need to turn. Nothing should hinder its movement. The result should be a unit that is driven manually and does not require power.
