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Systems heated floors V Lately have become quite common. They not only increase comfort, but also serve as a good addition to the main heating system. For efficient but economical operation of the heated floor, it is necessary to install a thermostat that turns the system on or off. You can see what it looks like in the photo.
Connecting the thermostat to warm floor(water) is not mandatory, although its use contributes to more economical coolant consumption. As for electrical and infrared systems, the installation of a thermostat is essential for their operation.
Before choosing the place where the thermostat will be located. There must be a 220 V electrical network next to it. Between the electrical network and the thermostat, it is necessary to leave space for the location of the circuit breaker.
When creating an electric heated floor, you need to provide space for a temperature sensor. It is usually placed near the thermostat. It is unacceptable to cover it with furniture.
In the case when it is used to heat the floor electrical cable, which is laid in the thickness of the screed, then the temperature sensor is removed from the concrete, placing it together with the inside of the corrugated pipe. As a result, one end of the pipe is located in the thickness of the screed, and the other is brought out to the wall so that, if necessary, the faulty sensor can be removed and replaced without removing the floor covering.
After completing the installation of the electrical system, markings are applied at the place where the thermostat will be installed. The connection diagram for the heated floor controller will help with this. If the device is built-in, then a niche is made at its future location (read also: " "). To install the overhead device, use self-tapping screws and dowels.
Please ensure that the power of the heating element of the underfloor heating system and the thermostat are compatible with each other. The load on the heating element must be less than the maximum power of the thermostat.
When installing a water heated floor, the temperature sensor is fixed at a height of about 100 centimeters; it can be placed next to the thermostat. But we must take into account that there should be no additional heating sources near the sensor.
After the underfloor heating system has been started, you need to place a regular thermometer next to the temperature sensor and set the required heating temperature on the regulator. The underfloor heating system should maintain stable performance for several hours. After testing the heated floor for normal performance, you can use them. The thermostat makes it possible to set the required temperature and thereby save on coolant.
There is nothing complicated about how to connect a floor heating regulator. But you need to follow the instructions exactly and follow the scheme for performing this work. In addition, the connection must be made with the electricity turned off - this is required by safety regulations. As a result of installing a heated floor system, within a few hours you will notice how much more comfortable the house has become.
The design of a heated floor system consists of installing heating elements under floor covering and further connecting them to a source of electricity. This does not happen directly, but through a thermostat - a device used to regulate the temperature. Connecting a heated floor to a thermostat (thermostat) and electricity is a simple operation, so it can be done without the involvement of professional electricians. Moreover, caring manufacturers usually depict an electrical installation diagram on the housings of their thermostats. However, if you are a person who does not understand the wilds of electricity at all, some of the nuances may not be clear to you. We will try to take into account possible controversial nuances and describe the process of connecting a thermostat to a heated floor system in as much detail as possible - for dummies.
The thermostat is used to maintain a stable temperature in a “warm” system, as well as to turn heating mats (films) on and off. The device “reads” the temperature sensor readings and automatically turns off the power supply as soon as the floor heats up to the required limit. At the same time, he himself remains in work mode and continues to control the situation. If the sensor notifies about deviations in temperature conditions, the thermostat will again release electricity into the system and the floor will begin to heat up.
The most popular and reliable thermostats are mechanical and conventional electronic. More complex ones are electronic programmable. Despite the significant difference in their “stuffing”, the principle of connecting thermostats is very similar.
The thermostat kit includes a temperature sensor, mounting box, terminals, installation and operating instructions
The thermostat is usually mounted into the wall, like a regular switch. A place is selected for it near the existing electrical wiring, for example, near an outlet. First, a recess is made in the wall, a thermostat mounting box is installed there, and the wires (phase and neutral) of the power supply and temperature sensor are connected to it. The next step is connecting the thermostat.
There are “sockets” located on the side of the thermostat. The wires of the network (220V), sensor and heating cable.
It is useful to know that the wires that are connected when installing the thermostat are color coded:
Connecting the heated floor to electricity is carried out in the following order:
Connection diagrams may vary slightly depending on the types and models of thermostats. Therefore, so that the user does not make a mistake, all contacts are usually marked on the device body.
When connecting the thermostat, follow the connection diagram shown on the device body
Small differences in connection are also dictated by the characteristics of underfloor heating cables. According to their structure and number of cores, they are divided into single-core and double-core. Accordingly, there are some nuances in their connection diagrams.
A two-core heating cable has two current-carrying conductors under a protective sheath. This type of cable is more convenient than a single-core design, since it is connected to the thermostat only from one end. Let's look at a typical connection diagram:
Connection diagram of a two-core cable to a thermostat
We see that in one two-core cable there are 3 wires adjacent: 2 of them are current-carrying (brown and blue), 1 is grounding (yellow-green). The brown wire (phase) is connected to pin 3, the blue wire (zero) is connected to pin 4, and the green wire (ground) is connected to pin 5.
The thermostat kit, the circuit of which we just looked at, does not include a grounding terminal. If there is a grounding terminal, installation is much simpler.
Two light green wires are connected to the ground loop through the PE terminal
A single-core cable has only one current-carrying conductor, usually it white. The second wire - green - is the grounding of the PE screen. The connection diagram could be like this:
Connection diagram of a single-core cable to a thermostat
White wires (both ends of a single-core cable) are connected to thermostat contacts 3 and 4, and a green ground wire is connected to contact 5.
As you have already seen, connecting the thermostat is one of the easiest stages in constructing a heated floor. You don’t need to be a rocket scientist to figure out the simplest diagram drawn on the device’s body and follow all the manufacturer’s recommendations. The only difficulty may be ensuring personal safety when working with electricity. Follow the installation instructions and remember that work on connecting the thermostat must be carried out with the circuit breaker turned off.
In order to provide the desired microclimate in rooms automatically, there are devices that control the operation of heating devices - thermostats. Their function is to maintain the set temperature in the room without directly affecting the boiler installation. This material is intended to illuminate the question of how to properly connect a thermostat to any heating element, be it water heating or infrared emitter.
All thermostats designed to automatically maintain a given air temperature within 
premises are divided into 2 groups:
The basis of the design of both types of devices is a temperature-sensitive element, which, when the set temperature value is reached, acts on the valve mechanically or sends an electrical signal to the actuator (servo drive, relay, contactor, etc.). If we are talking about the simplest non-volatile thermostats, then a striking example is valves with thermal heads installed on heating radiators. More “advanced” thermal heads with electronic control and battery power have also appeared on the market.
Correctly connecting a water heating battery through a thermostat is not difficult, especially if it is installed simultaneously with a radiator. If not, you should empty this branch of the system by first turning off the boiler or closing the corresponding fittings. Then disassemble the supply line to the battery and install the thermostatic valve in accordance with the instructions.
Important! No need to put thermostats on everything heating devices within one room. For control, it is sufficient if the devices regulate the flow on radiators whose total heat transfer exceeds 50% of the total. For example, if there are 2 batteries in the room, the valve with the head must be placed on one, whose power is higher. The same thing applies if their heat transfer is the same.
To connect a thermostat with an additional remote temperature sensor and a capillary tube, attaching this sensor to the wall will be added to the previous procedure. Its purpose is to measure environmental parameters away from the heaters, so it is better to place the recorder at a height of about 1.5 m from the floor.
Attention! Thermostatic valves work to shut off the coolant, so they cannot increase the heating power, only reduce it. Boiler equipment is responsible for providing the house with thermal energy.
Unlike electric heated floors, where the temperature controller is included and the diagram provides for its connection, underfloor water heating in the basic version is not equipped with automatic means. They need to be chosen from two types:
There is another way centralized management from the controller by the system " smart House", but in view high complexity We will not consider this system. The simplest diagram for connecting a heated floor with a three-way valve and a thermal head with a submersible temperature sensor is presented below.
Connection to underfloor heating
The thermal head, whose drive is installed in a three-way valve, uses an immersion sensor to measure the temperature in the supply manifold, to which the heating circuits of all rooms are connected. When the coolant temperature reaches the set temperature, the head drive activates three-way valve, as a result of which water begins to circulate inside the underfloor heating system. The supply of coolant from the boiler is stopped or limited.
This kind of microclimate control is indirect, with coolant flowing to all rooms at the same temperature. A heated floor connected to an electronic thermostat, guided by a room temperature sensor, does not have this drawback. Implement correct connection The following diagram will help.
Connecting a heated floor to an electronic thermostat
To attach room thermostat to the distribution manifold, you need to install it on the wall indoors, lay the power wires to the home electrical network and to the switching unit, the latter must be placed on the rail above the distributor. Next, the plastic cap is removed from the supply line valve and a servo drive is installed in its place.
The final connection of the heated floor to the thermostat is completed by connecting the wires from the servo drive to the electronic unit. The terminals on all devices to which wires must be connected are indicated in electrical diagram supplied with each product. Now the coolant will be supplied to each circuit depending on the actual temperature in the room where the thermostat is located.
Since in many cases home heating is carried out using infrared heaters, a thermostat can be used here to save electricity. Just as in previous cases, when the device reaches a certain temperature in the room, it will break the circuit and turn off the heater.
Important! When purchasing a thermostat in order to turn off an infrared heater, it is necessary to compare the power consumption of the heat source and the maximum switching power of the thermostat. The latter must be larger and have a reserve in order to function normally together with the heating element.
If 1 heat source is used to heat the room, then connecting the thermostat to infrared heater as follows:
In large areas, 2 or more electric heaters are installed, then a parallel circuit is used:
Small country houses Owners heat garages, garages and other similar buildings using electric heating elements. They are immersed in an oil or water medium that fills a homemade register welded from steel pipes. The most simple means automation for such a heat source is the same thermostat, it is not difficult to install, you just need to lay the wires to the heater. Of course, it is easier to use heating elements with a built-in thermostat in the design, but then the control will again be indirect, based on the coolant. It's better to use a regular one the electronic unit with the sensor and connect it to the heating element. The picture below uses simple circuit connecting a heating element with a thermostat.
Knowing how to connect a thermostat to a heated floor and to a heating element or other type of heater, you can do this work yourself. There are no particular difficulties here, you just need to choose the right device for electrical power and connect it in accordance with the diagram.
Hello, dear readers of the Electrician's Notes website.
I planned to install a heated floor in my bathroom at the beginning of November. After reading many reviews and suggestions on the forums, I chose the Thermomat heating mat, or Thermo for short, from a Swedish manufacturer.
The TVK heating cable has two conductors with a cross-section of 2.8 (mm) in double Teflon insulation. The inner sheath is made of aluminum foil (screen), and the outer sheath is made of PVC, which gives the cable additional strength and tightness, as well as uniform temperature distribution along its entire length. The cable is attached to a plastic reinforcing mesh of a certain size.
This is what it all looks like.
This heating mat is also convenient because it can be installed directly into the layer of tile adhesive. The result is a “thin warm floor”. And according to the manufacturer's instructions, it can be installed even on old tiles.
My bathroom is modest in size, so I chose the TVK-130 heating mat kit costing 3,528 rubles. Here are its characteristics:
The supply connecting wires (made of copper) have a cross-section of 1.0 (mm2) and a length of 3 (m). They are also called “cold” because they are not heating, but only connect the TVK cable to the thermostat.
This kit also includes a piece of corrugation for laying the temperature sensor (temperature sensor), which comes with the thermostat. There was no thermostat included in this kit, so I had to select one separately.
I chose the simplest one mechanical thermostat TR-110 from the National Comfort company.
Its cost was 1499 rubles.
I could also buy an electronic one, which has many functions, an LCD display and the ability to program, but it will be more expensive in price, and I don’t need so many “bells and whistles” in the bathroom. It would be a different matter if I used it in a water heating system.
By the way, the warranty for TR-110 is 2 years from the date of purchase.
Here is the receipt for all purchased floor heating equipment:
Total, 5000 rubles.
TR-110 is necessary to maintain a given temperature (from +5°C to +45°C) of the heated floor surface in the bathroom, kitchen and other rooms. This happens using a temperature sensor that comes with it. In fact, this is an ordinary thermistor, whose resistance changes in one direction or another depending on the temperature.
Technical data:
In terms of switching ability, it suits me, because... The power of the heated floor is only 130 (W) or 0.6 (A).
If your floor heating load current exceeds the maximum load current of the thermostat, then you need to use a contactor.
First of all, you need to decide on the installation location of the thermostat. I already had an outlet installed in my bathroom, so in order not to lay a new line, I decided to install the thermostat just below the outlet and connect it with a cable from it.
Then, between the outlet and the thermostat, I made a power cable for the TR-110 thermostat.
In my case, a VVGng cable (3x2.5) was laid from the apartment panel to the socket. This line is secure circuit breaker 16 (A) and RCD 25 (A), 30 (mA). Therefore, to power the thermostat, I laid a cable of a similar brand and cross-section - VVGng (3x2.5).
If you are renovating the entire apartment, then it is advisable to lay a separate supply line from the apartment panel for the heated floor copper cable cross section 2.5 sq. mm. This line must be protected by a circuit breaker 16 (A) and an RCD 25 (A), 30 (mA).
To hide the power wires of the TVK-130 heating cable and the corrugation with the temperature sensor, I made a vertical groove in the wall from the floor to the thermostat socket.
All that remains is to hollow out a channel (a continuation of the groove on the wall) in the floor at a distance of 30-50 (cm) into the heating zone for laying a corrugated tube with a temperature sensor. We immediately leave it in the canal.
Then you need to lay out the TVK-130 heating mat.
To do this, we will remove all debris, sharp objects and dust after gating, and prime old surface gender ( concrete base- screed).
Carefully lay the heating mat on the floor surface so that the temperature sensor is located at the same distance from the heating cable, and secure it with plastic brackets.
Then we apply tile adhesive to the mesh and lay the tiles. As they say in the instructions, the total layer (tile adhesive + tile covering) should not exceed 2 (cm).
On the body of almost any thermostat there is a diagram of its connection. My case is no exception.
The temperature sensor (thermistor) is always connected to terminals 1 and 2. Polarity does not matter.
The thermostat supply voltage 220 (V) is supplied to terminal 6 (phase L) and terminal 5 (zero N).
I hope you know how to find the phase of the power supply. If you have forgotten, then read the article about or.
1. For two-core cable
In my case, a two-core TVK cable is used. Therefore, we will connect it to the thermostat according to the following diagram.
We connect the brown wire (phase L) to terminal 3, the blue wire (zero N) to terminal 4, the yellow-green wire (PE shield grounding) to terminal 5.
Here I ask you to pay attention to the fact that the heating cable screen is supposed to be zeroed. If you have an apartment, then the screen should not be grounded, but grounded. Otherwise, if you have an RCD installed in your panel, then it will be .
Unfortunately, this thermostat does not have a grounding terminal (PE), so you need to connect the screen of the TVK cable to the PE network conductor using. And lay the connection itself in free space socket box.
Some models of thermostats already have a PE grounding terminal installed, which significantly speeds up the installation process.
2. For single core cable
If you use a single-core heating cable, then its wires (usually white) are connected to terminals 3 and 4, and the yellow-green wire (PE shield grounding) to terminal 5.
There is a similar situation here with the heating cable screen being grounded. Read the explanation of this just above.
To install the thermostat in the socket box, you need to remove the adjustment “wheel” and bend the two latches. This way you will remove the front part of the regulator. Place the remaining part into the socket box and secure it with screws around the perimeter.
On outside The thermostat is located:
The switch has two positions. If it is set to “0”, then the thermostat is disabled, if “1”, then the thermostat goes into working condition and controls and maintains the set temperature of the heated floor surface.
Just the same, with the help of the “wheel” the adjustment takes place required temperature according to the applied scale.
When the red LED is on, it means that the thermostat has turned on the heating system.
How it works? It's simple. We set the temperature on the regulator to 26°C. If the floor surface temperature is less than 26°C, the thermostat turns on the heating cable. As soon as the surface temperature reaches 26°C, the thermostat turns it off.
This is how you achieve both comfort in the bathroom and savings electrical energy, due to the fact that the heaters are not constantly on.
P.S. That's all. Thank you for your attention. If according to this material If you have any questions, please ask them in the form of comments or via personal email.
Today, “warm” floors are becoming increasingly widespread as an alternative to traditional convection additional heating of rooms. And if in country houses the most popular cable systems, then the owners of city apartments prefer to use film, infrared coatings.
However, to automate and increase energy efficiency of work, operation of any electrical systems warm floor is impractical. Available today various systems control the temperature regime of the heated floor, which you can simply connect yourself.
To connect, you will need a minimum of tools that are usually used when performing electrical work:
The sequence of installation and connection of the thermostatic device is as follows:
The advantage and comfort of using heated floors is unlikely to be fully experienced if the installation and connection of the temperature control device is carried out incorrectly or with defects. In this case, trial activation and verification are a very important step.
They are carried out under the control of the home owner, who must be sure that the electric floor heating system can subsequently be left unattended.
The check and test run sequence is as follows:
Device and connection diagram When using a thermostat to control a underfloor heating system, it controls the temperature and is the switch for the servo drive that controls the flow hot water. General scheme Installation of the thermostat is similar to the sequence of installing a thermostat for an electric heated floor. However, there are certain nuances here.
The sequence of installation operations for a water heating system is as follows:
In conclusion, it should be noted that the majority modern models thermostats are universal devices. They can be successfully used not only for heated floors, but also for automating the operation of electric boilers.
