A home drilling machine (simply a drill) is equipment that anyone who has ever mastered at least something once feels an urgent need for. Craftsmen sometimes make drills with 2-speed gear, part tables with more than 3 degrees of freedom, and even two-coordinate CNC drilling and milling machines, see fig. below. But in this publication we will consider the manufacture of a drilling machine with our own hands - one that simply drills and mills - but accurately, cleanly, and confidently keeps its accuracy for a long time subject to occasional short-term overload: stable processing accuracy is the main requirement for metal cutting equipment. Which in amateur designs is performed, unfortunately, most often only due to a random combination of circumstances.
Wooden drilling "machine"-monster
It always seems to beginners that woodworking is easy and simple. A damaged workpiece will fit into small crafts or fuel. Perhaps that is why a real craze has recently been observed: home-made machines with responsible wooden details. As a result, monsters sometimes appear in the world, which, probably, would have surprised Archimedes, see fig. on right. However, remember: the best achievable accuracy on wood is +/- 0.5 mm. In metal cutting, the largest allowable error is 0.375 mm by default (in England and USA 0.397 mm = 1/64 inch). This is the question about using the tree as the main structural material the machine is closed without discussion that, they say, wood is also deformed, worn out and damaged by orders of magnitude lighter than metal. Well, for lovers of deep inner self-satisfaction in products - free will for their money and work.
Fantasy is an indispensable condition for any creative success, but in mechanical engineering it is useless without accurate calculations and reconciliation with proven solutions. The history of machine tool building goes back thousands of years - bow turning and drilling machines with a foot drive were used already at the end of the Stone Age. On the topic of this article, the tested sample is an industrial design desktop vertical drilling machine. We will refer to it, choosing and deciding how best to make a drilling machine with our own hands: there are single copies of drills in operation, which have exceeded 100, and they still hold accuracy.
The device of a desktop vertical drilling machine is shown in the figure:
Its main modules are a bed, a column, a console and a table for the part. The components of the main nodes are slightly highlighted in color, and their components are brighter in colors. The simplest table (not counting the wooden block) is a vise. The rotary-sliding table allows, in addition to drilling, to perform some milling operations. The frame is usually tightly attached to a workbench or other reliable support.
Screw clamp - fixing the console of the mini-drilling machine
In operation, the console is set in the required position according to the size and configuration of the workpiece using the lifting and turning mechanism of the slider, and fixed. The spindle is fed into the working stroke by a separate feed mechanism. In amateur and industrial for home use structures, the lifting and turning mechanism is most often the operator's hand, and the latch is the screw clamp of the slider, see fig. on right; in TB, both are acceptable. But what must certainly be in the design of a drilling machine according to the requirements of the same PB is a fender or just a fender: if you throw the feed handle, the spindle or carriage along with it should automatically bounce up to the stop. In home drills, the chipper is most often a spring installed in suitable place, see below.
Note: industrial production, sale and use at enterprises and in IP workshops of drilling machines without a fender are prohibited by the PTB.
An electric drill is a ready-made drive, gear, spindle and chuck in a monoblock. Put it on the carriage of the machine - and you can drill. In terms of accuracy, the solution, generally speaking, is not optimal (see below), but in many cases it is acceptable, but it eliminates the need to order expensive turned parts of increased accuracy, see below. In view of what the beds for installing a drill are now sold, perhaps not on the street from trays; prices are affordable. When choosing one to make a drilling machine from a drill, be guided primarily by the mode of operation of the equipment; the price also depends on it:
Note: As a rule, a rotary-sliding table for the workpiece is optionally offered with drill stands, which allows for certain types of milling. Price within $20.
The frame for the drill (which sellers for some reason stubbornly call racks) must be chosen not by manufacturer (“China” - not “China”); Now the market is full of "German China", not to mention the products of the post-Soviet states. You need to check the design.
Firstly, specimens with plastic non-nylon sleeves of plain bearings are unequivocally rejected: the runout and drift of the drill by more than 0.5 mm will appear already on the 10th - 20th "hole" and will continue to increase. The second is the backlash of the console. We take it by the far end, shake it up and down and to the sides with the clamp clamped. There should not be a noticeable "talker" (the tactile sense of an untrained person feels a beating of 0.4-0.5 mm).
Next - inspection of the structure, see fig. below. For conventional drilling, the one shown in pos. 1. Perfect option- at pos. 2: drill collet clamp, shifting the column to the side reduces the vibration of the console by an order of magnitude, and by turning it sideways by 45 degrees, you can mill by hand with precision “as best you can” the part on a standard non-sliding table, removing a pair of table mounts, because at the same time, its manual displacement relative to the horizontal working axis of the console will be linear.
And here is a sample in pos. 3 do not take in any case. Firstly, the collar of his column is low and its fastening is unreliable. Secondly, the longitudinal grooves under the table facilitate manual milling “how it goes”, but, unlike the diagonal ones, they do not dampen the vibrations of the frame. Moreover, they will concentrate where indicated by the arrows (the tide under the column is made too narrow) and from there they will go straight to the column and table.
Let's say the price of the frame you like does not suit you. Or a drill, if it is a "draft", with a percussion mechanism, which was in operation on building structures and the beating of the cartridge is visible to the eye. Then, first of all, we find out if the master who owns a lathe of increased accuracy (not coarser than 0.02 mm) is within reach. Which, by the way, is not a fact - a high-precision machine is very expensive and never pays off on a stream of common orders. But, let's say, found. We take the drawing in Fig. on the right, we go to him and ask if he can carve it out of steel no worse than 30HGSA, and how much he will take for work. “This” is the drawings of the table drill spindle. The rest of its details can be machined on a conventional machine, or found in the ruins at the iron market or in your trash. Most likely, it will turn out that buying a bed + table is cheaper, and if you estimate the costs for the rest, then, perhaps, a drill with increased accuracy will be outlined. On sale there are; they can be recognized by the absence of a percussion mechanism and a collar specifically for installation in a bed: a turned steel cuff is put on it.
However, there are cases when a homemade drilling machine will either be cheaper or completely free, or the most best drill on the bed will not replace it. The fact is that, in addition to bending and vibration loads, torsional loads are also transmitted from the working body (tools - drills, cutters). This is due to the difference in the lever arms from the axis of the column to the closest to it and the far edges of the tool; torsional loads from the cutter, gnawing the material with one edge, are an order of magnitude greater than from the drill. Therefore, it is unrealistic to obtain an accuracy of processing with a drill on a bed over 0.1 mm (why - see below), but let's say, a hole of 2.7 is needed for the M3 thread; under M2.5 - 2.2, and the processing error in this case is unacceptable. In general, it makes sense to make a drill with your own hands, despite the costs, if:
Note: in the latter case, you are lucky, suddenly an old children's bicycle is lying around somewhere. The tubes of its frame are of excellent steel, and the wheel hub is almost a finished spindle; on order, only an adapter with a Morse taper for a tool chuck remains. Working thoughtfully and carefully, an old bicycle can be turned into a drilling machine with an accuracy of approx. 0.1 mm, or actually a free drill stand, see for example. video:
But, let's say we need higher accuracy, and we need to mill the grooves without losing it. In this case, the layout of the machine is of paramount importance.
The best option is the location of the spindle and drive different sides columns, pos. 1 in fig. The heavy motor in this scheme acts as a counterbalance to earthquake-resistant buildings: it reflects vibration and torsional loads from the spindle in antiphase. In the area of the column from partially extinguish each other. The damping is maximum if the center of gravity of the carriage is exactly along the axis of the console, and the higher, the thinner the drill and the less pressure on it. That is, the accuracy of the machine for fine work increases, and at the same time, without loss of accuracy, it can withstand quite significant overloads.
Note 4: do the drill for precise work with a direct drive to the spindle and the location of it and the drive on one side of the carriage, it is possible if there is a ready-made vibration-damping frame, for example. from an old microscope (under 2), etc. optical devices.
In mini machines for printed circuit boards and jewelry work, an unpleasant effect is observed: in order to obtain an accuracy above 0.05 mm, the column has to be made disproportionately thick, pos. 3. This is due to the fact that its ability to absorb vibrations and torsional loads is determined by the area cross section, which falls in a square with a decrease in the size of the part. For boards for components with a lead pitch of 2.5 mm, as well as small metalwork and carpentry work, an accuracy of 0.05 m is sufficient. At the same time, the main influence on its deterioration is exerted by loads bending the column. To parry them, it is enough to use a double column of a 10-14 mm bar from ordinary structural steel, pos. 4. If the usual accuracy of 0.375 mm is sufficient, then by doubling the column, a drilling machine for episodic work can be made even from a drill and plumbing propylene pipes, pos. 5. Its resource before loss of accuracy is small, but the material is also cheap and does not require processing to order.
An important role for the accuracy of drilling is also played by the device of the spindle feed mechanism (carriages in the machine from a drill): jerks and / or uneven feed force at least increase the runout of the drill. When drilling with a thin carbide drill, in this case, its removal, breakage and, as a result, irreparable damage to the labor-intensive workpiece are very likely.
In machines and beds for a drill of increased accuracy, a rack and pinion feed mechanism is used (on the left in the figure), which ensures its complete uniformity and, which is especially important for manual feed, precisely proportional return of the tool stop to the hand. This requires a rack and pinion with a well-defined tooth profile - involute. Otherwise, the feed will go jerky even with absolutely smooth pressure on the handle. It is unrealistic to make a pair of rack and pinion with the same involute teeth “on the knee”; picking up a suitable ready-made pair is unlikely, so rack and pinion feeders in homemade drills are extremely rare.
More often they make a simple single-lever feed mechanism, in the center in the figure, but this is far from optimal. At the beginning and at the end of the stroke, when smooth feed and drilling accuracy are especially important, it transfers the emphasis to the hand insufficiently, and excessively in the middle of the stroke, which increases the likelihood of the tool getting stuck in viscous material. From these shortcomings, the feed mechanism with a cranked breaking lever, on the right, is free; in addition, it additionally dampens console vibrations. The ratio of the shoulders of the knee take approx. 1:1.
Drilling thin brittle/ductile parts is more accurate, and the likelihood of drill breakage and breakage is less if the spindle is fixed and the table with the part is fed up to it, therefore, in many drills for fine work, the table is equipped with a separate feed mechanism. Due to the inertia of thinking, it is often also made rack and pinion, see for example. Further. But, given that the mass of the table in this case much more than such a part, a lever-feed table turns out to be no worse, but it is completely affordable for home production. Its device is shown in Fig.:
There is only one nuance: so that the clip does not lead during assembly, it is tightly inserted into the through hole of the base and welded from below (from the underside). You need to cook with an OMA-2 electrode or thinner with a direct current of 55-60 A with short diametrically opposite tacks (“pokes”). Dimensions of the table for printed circuit boards and jewelry work 60-150 mm in diameter; thickness 6-12 mm. Table shank diameter 12-20 mm; length by the feed stroke +(20-30) mm. The tube for the shank (wall thickness from 1.5 mm) is desirable to be machined or drilled and reamed so that the shank runs smoothly in it without noticeable play. The short lever arm is made approx. equal to the diameter of the table; long - whatever you want.
Let's look again at Fig. with factory settings. The designs of their half-frame carriage consoles are similar; they are quite rational, but designed for automated and robotic production: precision casting and then finishing in place on a CNC machine and laser measurement.
A diagram of an analogue of a console with an amateur-designed semi-frame is given on the left in the figure:
The first thing that attracts attention is that you need to cut 5 parts from a thick steel sheet, trimmed (processed with an end mill) for evenness and parallelism of the sides. Second, the end sections of the inserts filled with dark gray must also be even, clean, and parallel. Those. and here you can not do without a milling machine. Finally, outside the production conditions, it is unrealistic to perform a sliding pairing of the slider and the guide carriage (shown by the arrow) with a backlash of less than 0.1 mm. Let's estimate the ratio of the lever arms - the transverse runout of the drill is more than 0.5 mm.
The design of the console of a drilling machine, which is not very technologically advanced in mass production, but adapted for manufacturing by handicraft methods, is shown on the right in Fig. (the feed mechanism and the drive with the bracket are conventionally not shown). Moreover, in it, the beating of the drill on the inhomogeneities of the material causes the carriage on the column and the guide to skew in opposite directions, and the lateral drift of the tool does not exceed the amount of play in the slip liners. Only one detail is cut out of a thick plate - slider 4. Its precise processing is only necessary in the area of \u200b\u200bclamping the column and installing the guide, and 3 bronze bushings-inserts will precisely fit any turner of average qualification in place, if you give him a column and a carriage guide (they can be machined with normal precision).
So that the entire assembly does not lead to welding, you need to cook as before. case: OMA-2 electrode or thinner, direct current up to 60 A. The seams are also welded alternately with tacks: a “poke” on one, the same on the same far one, located symmetrically. Then the tacking of the seam closest to the first, the same on the diametrically opposite one, etc., etc., until all the seams are welded.
Note: the accuracy of the machine with the described console will be higher if it is assembled not by welding, but by screws with gluing with high-strength glue for metal ( cold welding). First, everything is assembled without glue, the clips are aligned for parallelism and the fasteners are tightened. Then the screws are turned out one by one, glue is dripped into the nest and tightly wrapped back. A dreary business, but in this way it is realistic to get a home-made drill with a drill runout of less than 0.02 mm. Unless, of course, the spindle and chuck are centered no worse.
All efforts to make a drilling machine with your own hands will go down the drain if fundamental mistakes were made during its design. The most common of them are shown in Fig.:
Typical mistakes in the manufacture of a drilling machine
Pos. 1 is the console or what? This frame will not withstand the standard load from the tool stop for a long time. There is no need to talk about accuracy. Pos. 2, in addition: it is impossible to make the column of the drilling machine tubular. The pipe holds bending loads, but is powerless against torsional loads, and only intensifies vibrations.
Pos. 3 - to make a drill from an old photographic enlarger, the temptation is great, especially since it was made with at least initial, but optical accuracy. But! The magnifier rod holder is not designed to support the tool. As a result, when drilling hardboard, the drill departure at a feed rate of 20 mm reaches 1.5 mm (!). And the bracket is silumin: this material does not absorb vibrations, gets tired quickly, and the bracket breaks in less than 200 holes even when drilling printed circuit boards.
Pos. 4 - doubling the column in the transverse direction does not give anything. The resistance of the machine to loads will be no higher than on a single pin of the same diameter. Pos. 5, in addition: the rebound spring, which is asymmetrical about the axis of the column, does not dampen vibrations and torsional loads, but enhances them. If so, it was necessary to put 2 identical springs on both racks. And it would be better to make a column, as shown here:
Pos. 6 - installation of the drive and spindle on one side of the column, and even asymmetrical, does not reduce, but enhances vibrations, because they are transferred to the column in phase, see above. Pos. 7 - where is the fender? Yes, it cannot be here, since the screw feed drive. With a screw, you can accurately set the slider (which is not here at all), which is home machine in general, it is not necessary, but in no case should the carriage be fed! This structure will be thrown a little bit with fragments of drills and chips, and the operator's eyes are in close proximity to the danger zone.
We will consider examples of successful technical solutions, as well as not so significant design flaws, using the examples of several home-made drilling machines.
For a radio amateur, modeller, craftsman-miniaturist and / or jeweler, a simple mini-drilling machine with direct drive may be of interest (the drawings are given in the figure on the right). The design feature is that the drive motor is rigidly attached to the slider, and the feed is only from below by the table. The massive electric motor itself serves as a vibration damper and torsional load absorber, just like an anti-seismic load on high-rise buildings. Thanks to this, all parts, except for the Morse taper with an adapter to the motor shaft, can be performed with normal accuracy: the drilling accuracy is determined by the beating of the motor shaft + the beating of the cone with the adapter + the beating of the drill itself. A table with a rack and pinion feed mechanism can be easily changed to a lever one. It is better to use a collector DC motor: for asynchronous motors with a capacitor start, due to the unevenness of the rotating magnetic field and the sliding of the rotor in it, the rotation of the shaft is less uniform. In addition, the speed of rotation of the collector motor is well regulated even with a simple rheostat, and to adjust the speed of the asynchronous motor, you need to change the frequency of the supply current. The same is for synchronous with a magnetic rotor. The maximum speed of the motor shaft is 800-1500 rpm. Power on the shaft for drilling holes up to 3 mm - 20-30 W; for holes up to 6 mm - 60-80 W.
Note: this machine is not suitable for milling, because motor shaft bearings are not designed for side loads and the machine in this mode will quickly lose accuracy.
Here in fig. drawings of a fully functional mini-drilling machine of the same purpose, also with direct drive, are given:
It is equipped with a separate spindle, which allows, firstly, to fill a drill with a maximum diameter of 6 mm into the chuck No. 1a; for 8-10 mm drills, the engine is rather weak. Secondly, to make milling with dental burs. Apparently, the author of the design often uses this particular operation, on the basis of which the motor rotation speed was chosen. Without reducing it, it is necessary to drill on this machine with carbide drills, and to use ordinary drills, supplement the design with a speed controller; in this case, the motor needs at least 60 watts. A conspicuous drawback of this machine - a simple lever feed drive - can be easily eliminated: the feed lever is replaced with a cranked one without modifying the rest of the parts. To improve the accuracy of processing, it is also desirable to put the second rebound spring (pos. 14 in the figure and 9 in the specification; there and still confused) symmetrically to the first, at the other end of the spindle leash. A more serious design flaw is that the rebound springs are not involved in damping vibrations and torsional vibrations. At rotational speeds above 5000 rpm, their influence on accuracy practically does not affect, but already at 1500 rpm, the runout of the drill during the working stroke increases by approx. twice.
Drawings of a drilling mini-machine, conceived as a full-fledged structurally, but with annoying errors, are given in fig; the design of the carriage is similar to the console in the previous. designs.
Thanks to the installation of a strong rebound spring in the right place, it was possible to firmly fix the spindle in the carriage, which at first glance reduced the number of parts that require increased manufacturing accuracy. But only when feeding from below by a table, and even then, the fixation of the slider 5 and the carriage 4 with pairs of screws 17 and 16, respectively. unreliable and spoils the column; it would be better to use screw clamps. And when the released carriage is fed by the lever, only its joints prevent the carriage from turning. A play of any of the hinges of the lever of 0.02 mm, taking into account its ratio with the length of the knee shoulders, will give a lateral drift of the drill by 2 mm or more, which can only be parried by hand. In this machine, the console with an additional carriage guide, described above, would be most appropriate; in this case, it would be quite possible to achieve a runout of the tool due to backlashes in the interfaces of the parts of the machine itself no more than 0.02-0.03 mm.
On this fig. - drawings of a bed for a drilling machine from a drill with a semi-frame carriage, "almost like a real one."
Everything is good in it, and something is even better than the "firm": plates 5, which prevent the lateral displacement of the carriage, perfectly "catch" and suppress the vibrations of the instrument in their very bud. There is only one question: how to do all this if a machine park worthy of a small machine-building plant does not doze in the garage (shed) in anticipation of the master's hand? It is easier to make a drilling machine from a drill as shown in the video:
Involuntarily, an old Soviet joke comes to mind:
“Dear Comrade Leonid Ilyich honored a certain industrial enterprise with his visit. They are walking through the workshop, suddenly the general secretary stops the retinue with a wave of his hand, one approaches the worker at the machine:
- Comrade turner ...
- Yes, Petrovich, I ...
- Fine. Comrade turner Petrovich, tell me frankly - do you drink vodka?
- But how! We use!
- And if a bottle costs 10 rubles, will you still drink?
- Will.
- And 25?
- Will.
- And 50?
- Will.
- And 100?
- I will anyway.
- Petrovich, ... but where can I get so much money for my salary ?!
- Gee ... what does the loot have to do with it ... this little wick (shows) how it cost a half liter, and it will cost.”
Who is happy, who is alas, but those Petrovichs, general secretaries and industrial relations are no more. And it will not be - they turned out to be completely ineffective.
A fairly popular request on this topic is also "drilling machine from the steering rack passenger car". It seems to be a ready-made converter of rotational motion into a linear one, and even with a geoid transfer characteristic: in order to “peck” a little with a drill, you do not need to “catch microns” with your hand. You just need to adapt the steering wheel to the rail, make a drill holder (see the figure on the right), and you're done, see video.
In a wide range of plumbing work, drilling is perhaps the simplest and most accessible operation for everyone. As a rule, in production, drilling work is carried out using various drilling machines.
Depending on the tasks performed, these can be the most common single-spindle units, and multifunctional multi-spindle machines with numerical control.
However, we will not be distracted by the description of all kinds of industrial drilling machines, especially since the home master, for whom this article is intended, will hardly be interested in the subtleties of the design of a universal vertical drilling and boring machine. But the design of the simplest home-made drilling machine, which can be assembled from improvised material at home, will interest any "handy" master.
To perform drilling work at home, in most cases, it is enough to have a conventional electric drill.
However, when performing work that requires high accuracy or drilling many holes of small diameter, which is especially important for radio amateurs in the manufacture of printed circuit boards, a drilling machine will be required, since an electric drill will not provide either adequate accuracy or drilling quality.
Of course, today any specialized store sells many models of various machines, including drilling machines, designed for use in home workshops. However, their cost is considerable, and not everyone can afford such a purchase, especially since with certain skills and desires, the simplest drilling machine can be made independently.
The most common types of homemade drilling machines are:
Consider in general terms the manufacturing technology of each of these machines.
Due to the ease of manufacture, drilling machines based on an electric drill can most often be found in home workshops.
The weight of the electric drill is small, so for the manufacture vertical rack no particularly durable materials are required, it can even be made from boards or chipboard.
The design of the drilling machine consists of 4 main elements:
The choice of the base of the machine, the frame, should be taken very seriously. The more massive it is, the less vibration will be felt during operation. If your farm has an old photographic enlarger for developing pictures, it can be adapted after a little refinement as a base with a stand. In the event that you did not find anything that could be adapted as a bed with a rack, this element can be made from furniture board not less than 20 mm thick.
When attaching the rack to the frame, it is extremely important to get a right angle, since the accuracy and quality of drilling will depend on this. With the help of screws, two guides, cut out of metal strips, should be fixed to the rack, along which the block moves up and down, to which the drill is attached. The block should be made in such a way that the drill can be tightly clamped with metal clamps.
To reduce vibration, a rubber gasket can be installed between the body of the electric drill and the shoe. The vertical movement of the block with a drill is carried out using a lever. To ensure the convenience of work, the feed mechanism should be equipped with a sufficiently powerful spring, which could bring the block with the drill to its original position. One end of the spring will rest against the block, and the other against a fixed beam, which should be installed on the rack.
If the drill will not be used autonomously, for greater convenience, you can disassemble its switch and install the on-off button directly on the frame.
In many home workshops, there are various electric motors that have been preserved after the use of electrical appliances. For the manufacture of a drilling machine, the most suitable would be an asynchronous electric motor, which is installed on drum-type washing machines.
It should be said that the design of such a machine is much more complicated than the above-considered design using an electric drill. Among other things, the motor from the washing machine is quite heavy, which creates increased vibration and requires the installation of a powerful stand.
To reduce vibration, place the engine as close to the rack as possible or choose a fairly heavy, powerful frame.
However, it should be noted that when the engine is located close to the rack, the design becomes much more complicated, since it becomes necessary to install pulleys with a belt drive. When assembling, it is necessary, if possible, to fit all the details as accurately as possible, since the performance of the machine will depend on this.
For the manufacture of the pulley structure, you will need:
The movable part of the mechanism can be made from a hexagon, a tube of the appropriate size, a clamping ring, bearings, a tube with a threaded internal thread to which the cartridge will be attached. The hexagon is an element of the transmission mechanism on which the pulley is put on.
To ensure a reliable connection with the hexagon, deep cuts are made at the ends of the tube. A compression ring and bearings are driven into the tube. It is necessary to ensure that the structural elements are fastened to each other very tightly, otherwise, the structure will collapse from vibration.
To manufacture the adjustment system of the machine, you will need a pipe with cuts of the appropriate size and a gear, the teeth of which must freely penetrate into the cuts on the pipe. In order not to be mistaken with the places of the cuts on the pipe and their size, you should roll out the plasticine on the pipe and drive the gear along it. The length of the ladder pipe must correspond to the height to which it is necessary to raise the chuck with a drill. The axis with a hexagon is pressed into a pipe with slots.
The design described above is rather complicated in execution, and, let's not dissemble, not everyone will be able to make it. Therefore, the easiest way, in the manufacture of a machine with an asynchronous motor, is to pick up a powerful steel frame and assemble the machine by analogy with a unit with an electric drill. True, it will not be possible to completely avoid vibration, in any case, and it is not necessary to count on obtaining holes of a particularly precise size when using this unit.
Of course, in this article only general principles making homemade drilling machines, and it cannot serve as a guide to action. Therefore, before proceeding with the assembly of the machine, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the drawings of various designs.
In addition, radio amateurs, who, as a rule, drill into printed circuit boards holes of extremely small diameter, it is recommended to assemble these structures in miniature, replacing the electric drill with a microelectric motor. Together with a voltage regulator, a microelectric motor will allow you to get almost perfect holes. An example of the construction of such a machine can be seen below in the photo.
Every House master has in his instrumental arsenal many different devices that allow him to bring his creative ideas to life. There are not only sets of keys, screwdrivers, needle files and files that are familiar to everyone. A self-respecting specialist must have machine tools. This is a sharpener cutting tool, small in size or metal, milling machine or a circular saw, welding installation. Even a novice home master can make a drilling machine with his own hands.
As a rule, at home, if drilling holes is necessary, a hand or electric drill is used. The use of these tools is justified only if there are no special requirements for the accuracy of the hole being drilled.
When trying to drill holes with a drill, the drill may move to the side, resulting in either a marriage or a product of poor quality. It is generally impossible to make a deep hole in a strictly vertical or strictly horizontal direction without a machine.
It is very difficult to drill in any material not a through hole, but a hole to a given depth (blind hole) using a drill, since this tool does not provide for the use of a ruler during drilling. Drilling machine very easy to deal with such a task.
When working with soft materials such as wood or plastic, the machine can be used to create milled holes or recesses. It is impossible to perform such operations with a drill.
Regardless of the complexity due to the need to solve certain technical problems, each home-made drilling machine contains the following main components in its design:
Main constructive element any machine equipment is a bed - a massive structural unit to which all other parts are attached. As a rule, a massive metal or wooden plate is used as a bed.
The chuck acts as a holder for a drill that will be used when drilling holes of various diameters.
An electric motor powered by a household network is designed to create torque and transfer it to the cartridge through a transmission mechanism.
The transmission mechanism allows you to reduce or increase the speed of rotation of the cartridge when rearranging the drive belt in it from one pair of pulleys to another. The pulley for the drilling machine can be taken from industrial equipment or made independently.
The controls are the on / off buttons of the electric motor, as well as the lever by which the rotating drill is deepened into the workpiece.
The measuring equipment is a ruler, which is fixed on a vertically moving part of the machine. In this case, the reference point is located on the fixed part, and the ruler moving down together with the drill indicates the depth of drilling a blind hole.
Equipment can be made from a wide variety of source components. The created machine may not be universal, but narrow-profile, for example, for drilling holes in printed circuit boards. Based on this, the stages of manufacturing the machine may vary slightly. The following examples describe the process of manufacturing various devices in design and purpose in a home laboratory.
Many radio amateurs either already have, or really want to have a device for drilling holes in the boards in their workshop. Why buy from a dremel store when you can make your own mini drill press? It differs from its traditional counterparts in miniature dimensions, respectively, all its parts are also small in size. As a rule, the weight of such devices does not exceed 5 kg, the frame is a platform of 300x300 mm, and the height is about 250 mm.
To assemble miniature machine equipment, you will need the following components:
The assembly of a miniature machine for drilling holes in printed circuit boards must be performed in the following sequence:
Homemade mini-machine for a radio amateur is ready for operation.
Craftsmen who design and assemble furniture at home cannot do without special machine tools. It is easy to assemble a simple, but perfectly coping with the functions assigned to it, drilling - filler, even in a home workshop.
This can be done without buying any specific or expensive parts. To create such equipment, you will need a manual or electric drill of industrial manufacture, which must be fixed on a self-made bed.
First of all, you should prepare the necessary tools and materials:
The assembly procedure of the machine consists of the following operations:
After connecting the plug of the electric drill to the AC mains, the homemade machine is ready for use as intended.
Lots of options. You can make a good machine out of a photo enlarger. In this case, the old equipment already has a finished frame and a vertical guide. It remains only to fix the carriage with an electric drill.
Of course, the equipment for drilling holes based on an electric drill is an original, effective and simple solution to the problem. However, what to do in a situation where you need a drill as a separate tool, disassemble the machine or buy a second drill?
In order not to bother answering these questions, you can make the following decision - to make a home-made drilling machine from the steering rack of a car. For the manufacture of this equipment, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:
During the creation of the machine, welding equipment and a lathe will be required.
When creating a device from a steering rack, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the following work order:
Device own production, assembled on the steering rack of a car, ready for a test run.
A tool that is necessary in a home laboratory, such as a hole drilling machine, can and should be made independently. This will not only save money, but will also encourage the master to create equipment that will fully meet his requirements for the quality of work performed, and will also effectively bring all creative solutions to life.
It is not necessary to spend money on a bench drill, because it is not so difficult to make it yourself. To do this, you will need to purchase, manufacture or use used parts. We will walk you through the creation of several designs, and you will be able to choose your own model for assembly.
Almost every owner has a drill, building or renovating his house or apartment, repairing household and garden equipment, various crafts made of metal and wood. But for some operations, a drill is not enough: you need special accuracy, you need to drill a hole at a right angle in a thick board, or you just want to make your work easier. This will require a machine that can be made on the basis of various drives, machine parts or household appliances, other improvised material.
The type of drive is a fundamental difference in the designs of home-made drilling machines. Some of them are made using a drill, mostly electric, others - using engines, most often from unnecessary household appliances.
The most common design can be considered a machine made from a manual or electric drill, which can be made removable, so that it can be used outside the machine, and stationary. In the latter case, the switching device can be transferred to the frame for greater convenience.
The main elements of the machine are:
The base or bed can be made from a solid hardwood saw cut, furniture board or chipboard. Some prefer a metal plate, channel or brand as a base. The bed must be massive in order to provide stability to the structure and compensate for vibrations during drilling in order to obtain neat and accurate holes. The size of the frame made of wood is at least 600x600x30 mm, from steel sheet - 500x500x15 mm. For greater stability, the base can be made with lugs or bolt holes and fastened to a workbench.
The rack can be made of a bar, round or square in section of a steel pipe. Some masters use the frame of an old photographic enlarger, a substandard school microscope, and other parts that have a suitable configuration, strength and weight as a base and stand.
The drill is fastened with clamps or brackets with a hole in the center. The bracket is more reliable and gives greater accuracy when drilling.
The feed mechanism is needed to move the drill vertically along the rack and can be:
Depending on the type of mechanism adopted, the type and arrangement of the rack will also differ.
The drawings and photos show the main designs of desktop drilling machines that can be made from electrical and hand drill.
With a spring mechanism: 1 - rack; 2 - metal or wooden profile; 3 - slider; 4 - hand drill; 5 - drill clamp; 6 - screws for fastening the clamp; 7 - spring; 8 - square for fixing the rack 2 pcs.; 9 - screws; 10 - emphasis for the spring; 11 - wing bolt for fastening the stop; 12 - machine base
With spring-lever mechanism
With a spring-hinged mechanism: 1 - frame; 2 - washer; 3 - nut M16; 4 - suspension struts 4 pcs.; 5 - plate; 6 - bolt M6x16; 7 - power supply; 8 - thrust; 9 - spring; 10 - M8x20 bolt with nut and washers; 11 - drill chuck; 12 - shaft; 13 - cover; 14 - handle; 15 - bolt M8x20; 16 - holder; 17 - rack; 18 - a glass with a bearing; 19 - engine
With articulated springless mechanism
Rack, working on the principle of a screw jack: 1 - frame; 2 - guide groove; 3 - M16 thread; 4 - sleeve; 5 - nut welded to the sleeve; 6 - drill; 7 - handle, during the rotation of which the drill moves up or down
Drilling and milling machine: 1 - machine base; 2 - supports of the lifting plate of the table 2 pcs.; 3 - lifting plate; 4 - table lifting handle; 5 - movable drill holder; 6 - additional rack; 7 - screw fixing the drill holder; 8 - drill clamp; 9 - main rack; 10 - lead screw; 11 - drum with Nonius scale
Machine from a car jack and a drill
The carriage is made of furniture guides
Mini-machine from a decommissioned microscope
Base and stand from an old photographic enlarger
Machine from a hand drill: 1 - bed; 2 - steel clamps; 3 - grooves for attaching a drill; 4 - drill fastening nut; 5 - drill; 6 - slider; 7 - guide tubes
Video 1. Step-by-step guide for an inexpensive machine. The bed and the rack are wooden, the basis of the mechanism is a furniture guide
Video 2. Drilling machine - a jack from the Zhiguli and a drill
Video 3. Spring-lever stand for a drill
Video 4. Step by step creation steel rack for drill
The steering rack for a car and a drill are quite massive products, so the bed must also be massive and, preferably, with the ability to fix the machine on a workbench. All elements are welded, as the connection with bolts and screws may not be sufficient.
The bed and the support post are welded from channels or other suitable rolled products, about 5 mm thick. The steering rack is fixed to the rack, which should be 70-80 mm longer than the rack, through the lugs of the steering column.
To make it more convenient to use the machine, the control of the drill is taken out in a separate block.
Video 5. Drilling machine based on the steering rack from Moskvich
The order of assembly of drilling desktop machines:
All fasteners must be made as securely as possible. It is desirable to connect steel one-piece structures by welding. When using any kind of guides, you need to make sure that there is no lateral play during movement.
Advice! To fix the part in which the hole is drilled, the machine can be equipped with a vice.
On sale you can also find ready-made racks for a drill. When buying, you need to pay attention to the mass of the structure and the size of the working surface. Light (up to 3 kg) and inexpensive (up to 1.5 thousand rubles) racks are suitable for making holes in a thin plywood sheet.
If there is no drill on the farm or it is not desirable to use it in the machine, you can make a design based on an asynchronous motor, for example, from an old washing machine. The scheme and manufacturing process of such a machine are quite complex, so it is better to do it by a master with sufficient experience in turning and milling, assembling electrical circuits.
To get acquainted with the design, we present assembly drawings and detailing, as well as the characteristics of assembly units in the specifications.
Details and materials for the manufacture of the machine are shown in the table:
Table 1
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300x175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main rack | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and threaded M12 |
| 4 | Spring | L=100-120mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | lead screw | Тr16х2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Тr16х2 | |
| 9 | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | ||
| 10 | Lead screw bracket | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of the driving pulleys of the V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one groove to another |
| 15 | electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | ||
| 18 | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | ||
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, made of wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | ||
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | ||
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | Drive V-belt "zero" profile, so the pulley block grooves have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Network cable with fork | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool Chuck No. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head provides both translational and rotary motion. It is mounted on its own base - duralumin console.
Details and materials for the manufacture of the spindle head are shown in the table:
table 2
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Steel circle Ø 12 mm | |
| 2 | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm | |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial rolling bearing No. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Special screw M6 with knurled button | |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm | |
| 10 | Bearing | angular contact |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
Drilling machine assembled
The electrical circuit depends on the type of engine.
Simple circuit diagram for factory machine 2M112
Mini-board drilling machines for radio amateurs also borrow a drive from various low-power devices. At the same time, cutters for cropping photographs are used as levers, soldering irons, collet pencils instead of a cartridge. The drilling site is illuminated with LED flashlights - there are enough opportunities for technical creativity.
A simple electric motor control circuit
Video 7. Mini board drilling machine
Using a conventional hand drill, it is almost impossible to manually drill a strictly perpendicular hole in a thick bar, to perform a series of precise parallel drillings. Buying even an inexpensive drilling machine for this purpose is extremely wasteful if such work is episodic.
There are special accessories for factory-made electric drills that expand their capabilities in this regard. Click on the small pictures on the right for a closer look.
Their use allows you to turn the drill into a kind of drilling machine. Of course, you can get one of these devices by choosing it for your tool, but you can make a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. Let's consider several approaches to solving this problem.
Detailed drawings of such a device cannot be found even on the Internet. This is partly due to the multiplicity of approaches and technical solutions, and partly due to the simplicity and accessibility of methods for solving this problem. Let's analyze the ones that we managed to find.
This one is perhaps the most detailed and detailed. The main advantage of this arrangement is the absence of any gear pairs that ensure the vertical movement of the drill along the stand, which is the basis of the fixture. The spring-loaded holder moves along the rack by the distance between it and the lower stop, minus the thickness of the compressed spring. To prevent its rotation in the horizontal plane, a groove is obviously made in the rack, along which the screw 16 moves.
Even easier for self-implementation is a drawing of a wooden stand for a drill.
It does not show all dimensions, due to the fact that they are not of fundamental importance. And the lever feed system, as in the previous case, will ensure a strictly parallel movement of the electric drill along the rack. The holding of the tool in the upper position is achieved due to the friction forces in the grooves and on the side cheeks of the holder and is regulated by the tightening force of the self-tapping screws.
If you have free screw pair, possibly from an old vise, it can also be used for a tool feed system in a homemade electric drill stand.
For small drills, you can also use a regular threaded stud Ø 16-20 mm with a corresponding widened nut, which are sold in hardware stores.
We have selected for you easy-to-make, but in our opinion interesting rack designs for home-made drilling machines based on an electric drill.
Such a wooden stand can function successfully without a lever, and the instrument is raised and lowered either by the handle of the instrument itself, or by upper part the box in which it is attached.
An interesting design, in which the system of 2 levers is replaced by 1 with a longitudinal groove, along which the stop screw moves.
A productive method is the combination of materials for racks that allow you to turn an electric drill into a drilling machine. So, the main material for their manufacture is wood, but the most worn components are made of metal, which radically lengthens the life of the entire device.
An interesting design using industrially produced furniture skids as guides:
The high accuracy of their execution has practically no backlash.
The process of creating a stand for an electric drill is greatly simplified if you have a photo enlarger of any model at your disposal. It is unlikely that he will ever be able to serve you for its intended purpose, but a drilling machine will turn out great from it. After all, it already has in its design both guides and a gear rack for moving a rather heavy head along them, instead of which a holder for a drill should be hung.
No less productive is the option of converting old Volgovsk or Zhiguli rack jacks into a drill stand. After all, you do not need their entire height for the normal operation of such a device, but only a small gap of the screw.
To do this, it is enough to slightly modify the lifting lever, in which to fix the drill, and the thrust pad.
And here is the video:
You can do it even easier by firmly fixing the drill at the top of such a jack, and place a work table on the lever. Do not lower the drill for drilling, but raise the workpiece itself, especially since the lower part of the screw in such jacks is the least worn.
And in general, the same principle can be applied to fairly large and powerful drills, securely fixed in any way on the powerful stand of the future machine. And you can make a small lifting table in the image and likeness shown in the video:
Or use a small rhombic car jack for the same purpose, providing it with a reliable base and replacing the upper stop with a work platform with vise or prism.
Moreover, both the first and the second can be made removable, and in long time intervals between drilling operations, the jack itself can be used for its intended purpose.
And yet, when we talk about a drilling machine, we mean something more fundamental than that described in the previous section, and the material for such devices should be metal, even if we are talking about very small machines for low-power power tools, such as this:
And even such a primitive design greatly expands the capabilities of a hand drill. But, how to make an almost full-fledged drilling machine with your own hands, without using complex technical solutions for this? Of the simple ones, the following construction seems to us the most reliable:
Its biggest drawback is the possibility of free rotation of the holder, and with it the drill, around the rack, but if square or rectangular pipes are used instead of round pipes, this disadvantage will be eliminated. The main thing: very carefully choose the size of the gaps between the stand and the movable sleeve of the holder frame for the drill.
A slightly different, but not more complex, technical solution for supplying a tool to a part in which drilling is performed was carried out by home craftsman from the video:
If you only plan to pick up a specific drill model with the possibility of using it in conjunction with a device whose designs we have described above, then:
1. Give preference to a tool with a power of at least 1 kW.
2. Choose a model with a removable handle, fastened with a circular clip in the girth. They have a convenient wide cylindrical part on the body for mounting in a holder.
3. Choose a tool that has several speeds or smooth speed control.
4. The button on your drill should have a latch in the on position.
5. It is better to connect the drill on the stand to the mains through a socket or extension cord with a power button, and firmly fix them on the frame in a place convenient for emergency shutdown.
Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)
