It is difficult to find such a popular facing material as tile. It is used to decorate a wide variety of rooms. In most cases, installation tiles carried out in bathrooms, bathrooms, showers, on landings and steps.
The use of tiles is not a tribute to past traditions. Her choice is indicative of rational approach property owner. Despite the availability of many of the latest floor and wall coverings, tile will never go out of style. Thanks to unique performance characteristics this facing material is far superior to most modern coatings.
The benefits of using tiles include:
The production of tiles occurs by firing the raw materials from which it is made. This destroys:
Perhaps the only drawback of the tile is fragility. It is not very resistant to mechanical damage as a result of impacts with a hard or heavy object.
For laying tiles we need:
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At the initial stage, the preparation of the surface on which the coating will be laid is carried out.
It is cleaned, smoothed and dried. The surface is being primed.
The prepared base of the floor is marked. To ensure sufficient access to the walls, skirting boards and door cladding are removed. On opposite walls, the middles are measured. This is necessary to determine the center lines of the room.
The acquired tile is laid out on the marked surface with your own hands. It is in this way that it is determined whether there will be areas where a whole tile does not fit. If there are such areas, you will have to cut the tiles.
There are the following ways to install tiles:
Depending on the installation method, the first row of material will be laid. The first type of laying is used in fairly spacious rooms, and tile work begins from the middle of the wall. When working in smaller rooms, everything starts from the second row. Do diagonal laying cladding is best in spacious and large rooms However, this method is the most complicated and time-consuming.
For diagonal installation:
An even arrangement of the facing material during operation is achieved using a level. You should also pay attention to the corners of the tiles. Sometimes a tile comes across that is unevenly concave or a ledge is possible on it. In this case, in order to prevent uneven floors, the tile is placed slightly below the planned level. One requirement is met unquestioningly - the seams must always match in perpendicular directions.
The laying of tiles begins from the wall opposite from the entrance to the room. Attached to the bottom of the wall wooden lath, on which the first row of tiles will subsequently be based. traditional technology installation of tiles (joint-to-joint) provides for compliance with the coincidence of vertical and horizontal seams. A plumb line and a level must be used to check the vertical deflection.
A very important stage is the preparation of a mortar for high-quality adhesion of the tile to the wall. Cooking adhesive mixture is carried out in any container suitable for this, in which successively:
After a few minutes, the prepared solution is mixed again and infused until a homogeneous consistency for 1-2 minutes.
The next step is to apply glue to the base under the tile. Working with heavy (outdoor) facing material produced with a notched trowel. The glue is applied to the floor base with the smooth side, and spread over the surface with the serrated side of the tool. Required thickness layer of glue should be slightly higher than the height of the trowel teeth.
Having placed the tile on the floor or the first row of the wall, it should be pressed very tightly with your hands over the entire surface. For greater effect, the tile is tapped with a wooden mallet. To get the same width and distance between the tile seams, use plastic cross-separators. After laying the tile on the glue, it is necessary to tap and punch with a mallet along the entire width and length of the tile, at the same time clearing it of glue residue.
Crosses are removed 1-2 hours after laying tiles. The next day, you can carry out the sealing of tile joints. This work is carried out using a special grout. A grout solution is applied to the tile joints with a rubber spatula, all gaps, cracks and holes are rubbed.
After the work on sealing the seams, you should wait about an hour. The grout should dry. The tile is washed with a sponge or cloth dipped in warm water. Be sure to wash off the grout and excess adhesive residue in a timely manner, since the upper (glazed) layer of the tile is damaged very easily. The created tiled surface is polished with a flannel cloth.
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In some cases, it is not possible to lay the entire tile. You have to resort to cutting it. Before carrying out this process, the tile is soaked in clean water approximately 2-3 hours. Wall tiles should be cut with the simplest glass cutter, and thicker flooring with a tile cutter.
When cutting the material with a glass cutter, the notch line is drawn further than 10 mm from the edge of the tile. The glass cutter must be used after marking the cut line, evenly pressing on the tile and leaving a noticeable and clear mark. After that, the tile is placed on the edge of a solid object. Pressure is applied to the area that needs to be cut off. The tile will break exactly along the cut of the glass cutter.
Even easier to work with a tile cutter. The main thing is that the fixture wheel does not move from side to side - this will lead to crooked cuts. The tile is marked with a marker and placed in the base of the tile cutter. Next, the following actions are carried out:
The remaining excess pieces of tiles are removed using nippers. The tile is cut only once, after which it becomes fragile and of poor quality. If necessary, create a hole in the tile in its place is removed glossy surface. And then the hole is drilled with a drill.
Ceramic tiles have been used for flooring for a long time. It is durable, wear-resistant, practical and beautiful material. Of course, only professionals can afford exclusive finishing. But the floor in the toilet, bathroom or kitchen is quite possible to do it yourself. Be persistent and everything will work out. Even if you break a few tiles, the savings will still be many times greater.
What are the characteristics of ceramic products?
For deviations up to 10 cm, first apply a leveling cement-sand mixture, and after drying - self-levelling.
Incorrect choice mixture will cause the surface to crack or be poorly leveled, which will lead to additional costs and loss of time to correct the work.
If you plan to lay tiles on top of an old tiled base, no leveling compounds will be needed.
Finally, ceramics can be laid on a wooden floor, having previously strengthened it. For pre-cladding, cement-fiber boards will be required.
So, the layout pattern is selected, the method of preparing the base is outlined. What will be required from the materials:
Main:
Auxiliary (base preparation):
What tools will be needed:
In order for the coating to hold securely on the base, not fall off and crunch underfoot, the base should not be loose, non-rigid (unsteady). After the revision, determine whether something needs to be done with the base, if yes, then what exactly. Based on the results of the audit (step 2), a decision is made on how to strengthen the foundation.
Concrete base:
Loose, flaking places are scraped off manually (with a chisel) or with a perforator with a flat nozzle. Clean the surface of dust, dirt and grease with chemicals. Align the base using a solution based on one or another leveling mixture.
Apply a layer of liquid priming primer. Glue roll or coating waterproofing. Sprinkle a thin layer of quartz sand on top (for better adhesion adhesive composition to the base). 
In order to lay a new coating on an old tile, sand the base using a rotary or surface grinder (round metal brush, abrasive wheel, abrasive tape).
For wooden floor:
The base is covered with gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL) 20 mm thick (for dry rooms) or cement-bonded particle boards (DSP) 10-15 mm thick (in rooms with high humidity). Joints should not be located between the boards; for GVL they are filled special glue, for DSP - elastic polyurethane mastic.
The outline of a room is rarely perfectly rectangular. With a plain floor finish, this is not striking. Perpendicular tile joints emphasize the unevenness of the walls. How to reduce this illusion? Procedure:
If the walls are straight enough (diagonal difference is not more than 1 cm), draw one of the marking lines parallel to the long side of the room.
Dry mix for tile adhesive is sold in 25 kg bags. To close it, take an open container with a volume of 5 - 10 liters (empty plastic cans from paint, putty and other materials are suitable). The main thing is that the inside is dry, clean and fat-free.
Pour a certain amount of water into the container, then add the appropriate amount of dry mix (the ratio is indicated on the package).
Make the first batch small until you feel how much solution you can use during its viability.
Take an electric drill with a mixer attachment and mix the contents until the solution acquires the consistency of sour cream and there are no unmixed lumps left in it.
To avoid stratification of the solution, do not set the mixer speed too high.
Let the mixture stand for 10-15 minutes and mix again. The glue is ready to use.
How to style floor tiles can be seen in this video:
We dance from the stove. The first tile is laid according to the markup (step 5) according to the selected layout option. If work is started from the center of the room, a quarter of the marking is chosen, opposite to the entrance, so as not to walk on the newly laid tile.
With a trowel spread on the floor the amount of mortar based on 2 - 3 tiles. Use a notched trowel with a notch width of 6 to 8 mm to smooth out the adhesive. Lay the first tile in the marking corner, lightly press it from above with your hands or with a level, checking its horizontalness with a short level. If necessary, adjust the horizon by sinking one edge of the tile with rubber mallet or by placing an additional portion of glue under it.
The next tile is installed close to the first, dividing crosses are placed in the corners, some prefer to put them upright on the sides of the tile. Check the horizontal position and relative position with a long level. After the smeared surface is laid out, the next portion of the solution is laid and smoothed.
Putting in a few more. After a while, it will be clear: how many tiles you have time to put on one portion of the solution, after which the work will go faster. When the time comes to lay additional elements (non-whole), they are cut off to right size. For a pass various pipes make curly cuts. Laying is carried out, starting from the far corners of the room and ending at the front door.
The grout mixture is diluted to a thick paste, after which it is applied to the tile gaps, trying to fill them to the full depth. Only then can you be sure that after some time cavities will not appear on the seams, where moisture will penetrate.
The joints are filled with paste using a hard rubber spatula, making cross movements with it. 
along the seam from left to right and vice versa, while holding at an angle of 45 ° to the floor. Excess fugue is removed with the same rubber spatula, leading it along the seam perpendicular to the coating.
After about 20 minutes, the floor is finally wiped with a damp sponge, which is periodically rinsed from adhering grout particles. After complete hardening, the surface of the fugue is covered with a sealant or impregnation for joints to protect it from moisture.
We offer you to watch a video on laying tiles:
Some tips from the experience of tilers:
So, the technology of finishing the floor with ceramics does not present any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow all the tips and recommendations for tile work. More self-confidence, and the new floor will delight you for years to come.
By itself, ceramic tile is not very expensive, given its durability and practicality. But stacking can double the cost facing works. The master needs not only to recreate the conceived drawing, but also to think over the layout correctly in order to avoid ugly trimmings, cut the tiles correctly and lay them out in one plane. This is a complex and painstaking job that requires experience, but if you want to save money, laying tiles yourself is quite real, and in this lesson you will learn the main points of the technology.
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You should start by removing the old finish. Installation of tiles can even be done on an old tile, if it holds well and notches are made on it with a chisel so that the glue has something to grab on to. But it would be better to remove old finish and plaster to concrete base.
If the walls are uneven, they must first be plastered or leveled with drywall. If this is a floor, a screed or self-leveling self-leveling floor is made. This will not only increase the convenience of work and reduce the consumption of glue, but will also have a good effect on the quality of the cladding: it will be even and durable, and the chance of cracks and tile separation will decrease. Do not rely on the fact that you will hide all the bumps due to a layer of glue.
Detailed video on cement plaster walls:
If an electric underfloor heating is planned on the floor, it is highly desirable to drown it first in the screed.
The base and plaster are carefully covered with a deep penetration primer.
In wet rooms the floor is waterproofed. Wall waterproofing is done only in places in direct contact with water (for example, shower walls).
It is necessary to think in advance where there may be narrow ugly undercuts and try to minimize them by shifting the layout. You also need to decide on the position of the decor, borders, a combination of dark and light backgrounds. The decor cannot be cut at all, and the borders can only be shortened. best to draw visual diagram each wall with a tile layout. There are many nuances in this issue that have been written about.
Often tiles, even in one package, can differ by several millimeters (especially domestic). This can cause a lot of inconvenience during work - the seams will not converge. Therefore, before laying, the tiles must be sorted by size into 2-3 groups.
Directly for laying tiles, you need to have the following tools (not counting the preparation and removal of the old finish):
It is desirable to have 2 bubble levels (long and short) to control the laying plane If not laser level- the exact horizontal can be obtained with water. The exact vertical level is determined by a plumb line Cement-based adhesive Capacity 10 liters
Perforator with homemade nozzle for mixing dry mixes Comb with 10 mm teeth Plastic crosses 2 mm Manual tile cutter Rubber spatula
Mixing the solution is as easy as shelling pears: pour about a liter of water into the container and start pouring the dry mixture into it until a mound forms. Mix everything into a homogeneous solution without lumps, and in the process you will see if you need to add more water or mixture.
The consistency should allow you to conveniently apply glue so that it is effortlessly smeared on the surface, but also does not drip from the comb.
After that, you will need to wait 5-10 minutes and mix the solution again before starting work.
You don’t need to do a lot of glue, especially for the first run, as it takes the most time.
Each master has his own styling technique, I will tell you how I do it.
Before gluing the tile, I lubricate its underside and base with a thin layer of glue “on the peel” to increase adhesion. Only after that I apply a layer of glue about 1 cm thick on the tile and go over it with a comb. When laying floor tiles, it is more convenient to apply a comb layer of adhesive to the floor.
To prevent excess from crawling out from under the tile, I try to apply glue with a slight indent from the edge. In any case, you need to follow up and remove the excess along the edges in time, otherwise you will then be tormented by cleaning the seams from the hardened glue.
This technique is good because thin glue is used, and for good fixation it is not necessary to knock on each tile with a mallet, it will be enough just to press it to the desired level. For reliable fastening, it is necessary to press down the tile by about half the thickness of the strips from the comb.
Laying ceramic tiles on the walls is done in horizontal rows, starting from the bottom. Depending on the conditions and the chosen layout, the first tile can start either at the edge or in the center of the wall. Laying on the floor is done starting from the corner farthest to the exit.
Particular attention should be paid to places that will come into contact with deformable surfaces. For example, cast iron bath may "walk" a little, or change its size depending on the temperature. It may not be noticeable to the eye, but it will be enough to tear the tile off the wall. To prevent this from happening, a gap of at least 2 mm must be left between the tile and the bathroom, which is filled with an elastic sealant. It can be matched to the color of the main grout.
The width of the seams between directly affects how the tiling will look. If you have a high-quality flat tile, you can make thin gaps of 1-2 mm. On sale there are crosses of different thicknesses, from 1 to 10 mm.
The amount of marriage during cutting will greatly depend on the availability and quality of the tool.
Straight lines are easily cut with a manual tile cutter. If it is not there and the tile is quite soft, you can cut it off with any sharp object (glass cutter, nail, drill). You need to make an even scratch, and then divide the tile into 2 parts by evenly pressing on the corner of the table.
Small pieces or curved cuts can be made with a grinder with a diamond blade.
Cut tiles at 45 degrees
Separately, it is worth talking about the outer corners. Now in stores you can buy special plastic corners(layouts), which are simply put on adjacent tiles. Professionals do not use them, except for traumatic areas where you can slip. Instead, the corner tiles are cut at 45 degrees to create a nice seam. This can be done with the same grinder or electric tile cutter. The tile is sawn from the back right to the glaze, but it cannot be damaged. It is advisable to make the angle even a little more so that there are no difficulties when docking. When the corner is reduced, it must be fixed masking tape so that the liquid glue does not spread.
You may also need to make a hole in the tile. Small holes are made with a tile drill, and large ones are cut out with special nozzles for a drill - crowns or ballerinas. square holes can be cut with a grinder.
Most adhesive solutions allow you to walk on the tiles 12-24 hours after laying. But there is also a quick-hardening glue, it will be ready in 4 hours.
We remove the plastic crosses, clean the seams from the solution and proceed to grouting.
This step is simple: close grout mixture water and apply it with crosswise movements inside the seams with a rubber spatula. Then we form a seam and remove the excess with a clean cloth. If the facing area is large, then it will be more convenient to work with a rubber grater.
In wet rooms, the seams can additionally be protected with a special impregnation.
You can write a whole book about how to lay tiles with your own hands - after all, there are many nuances in this matter, the development of which takes years of experience. In this article, I told only the basics, so if you have any questions, welcome to the comments.
Probably, no renovation is complete without tiles. Ceramics has many advantages over others finishing materials in many situations. And when it comes to decorating the bathroom, then tiles are absolutely the leader. However, laying tiles is not a cheap pleasure, and it is also a terribly interesting activity. These factors provoke many home craftsmen to work with their own hands. Practice, if possible, should be preceded by theory, so we tried to make the article give an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to lay tiles on a wall.
We do not consider floor cladding here, but we assure you that if you master laying tiles on the wall, the floor will seem like an easy base. Vertical surfaces involves the fight against gravity, the need to manage complex geometry and take into account many more parameters. However, it is not the gods who burn the tiles, and it is also not the inhabitants of Olympus who are engaged in tiling ...
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Ceramics can be laid on two types of mixtures: tile adhesives and cement-sand mortars. There are other binders, but they are used in special occasions and have nothing to do with everyday construction tasks. Substrate preparation depends on the type of mortar. Having given preference to glue (and this is the most popular solution today), the walls are plastered or sheathed with drywall. In any case, the base plane should tend to the ideal.
Gypsum plaster Knauf Holtband Beacon profiles are leveled in a flat plane and fixed to the mortar. The plaster is applied to the wall and smoothed out according to the beacons.
We drill channels for pipes. 
We bring pipes for the bath and hide them in the wall.
Wall cladding requires a special tool. Make sure you already have:
Roulettes and other hammers were not included in the list, it is understood that they already exist in every household. When mixing glue, it is difficult to do without a drill with a nozzle, so its presence is also desirable. You can knead with your own hands, but correctly - with the help of a tool.
The basic rule of facing: visually important places should be given a whole tile. The lot of the cut tile is located where it will be less visible or hidden. Calculate the number of slabs before leveling the base. You may need to level a little more if the geometry calls for too small a piece of tile in the corner. It is better to lose a little in the area than to admire for many years a two-centimeter "stub". If the corners are visually equal, it may be worth reducing the trimming to the edges, and the same. Although there are certain design rules here, in fact, the taste of the owner puts the point in question.
The vertical layout is based on the whole tile at the top rule. But, again, there are exceptions, so be guided by common sense. Do not forget to take into account the height of the floor and ceiling, as well as slab joints. Over a large area, with seeming insignificance, the latter play an important role, accumulating in total up to several centimeters.
It is unlikely that you will start with the last method, it is the most difficult. The second imitates brickwork, gluing tiles in this way is easiest. The most popular type is the first, it requires careful observance of vertical and horizontal, any deviation will be noticeable.
Good video about the correct layout:
Gluing, as a rule, should be started from the second or third row. This is due to the fact that it is correct to cover the floor tiles with wall tiles:
If you have already laid the floor (although this sequence is not according to the rules), start laying the tiles on the wall from the very bottom. But this option is unlikely, do not forget about the whole tile under the ceiling. Unless the height of the walls allows you to do without trimming.
Having decided on the lighthouse row, “punch” the marks of the upper edge of the first row using a water level. The presence of a laser will facilitate the work, but the tool is specific, and there is no point in buying it specifically. Plastic tubing is much cheaper, and if you don't have to lay tiles in a large area, forget about the laser. Surely you know about the principle of communicating vessels, so we will not dwell on the work of the hydraulic level.
Mark the horizon immediately around the perimeter, make sure that there will be no trouble with possible cutting around the pipes. Sometimes it is necessary to shift the marks to avoid a difficult cut. Further on the marks you can:
The first option is still preferable, as it gives you full control over the horizon and the plane. We make a reservation that wall cladding for mortar involves only this item. Plumb lines will help control the vertical or, much more often, when tiling with glue, the same line, but already along the Y axis.
To prevent the tiles from sliding down, we fasten the profile 27x28 mm according to the marks. In this bathtub, a uniform layout from the center is chosen so that 2 identical undercuts are obtained along the edges.
You need to glue on a tile adhesive that matches the task. Do-it-yourself kneading does not allow you to quickly bring the mixture to the desired consistency, so use a mixer. Apply the composition to the base or tile with a spatula. After application, remove excess glue with a comb, as a result, an even layer of grooves will remain on the surface. Choose a notched trowel based on the size of the tile and the plane of the base. The larger the plate and the worse the plane, the larger the teeth on the tool should be.
After a day, the support bar is dismantled and the bottom row of tiles is laid.
When tiling with your own hands, you can do without expensive cutting tool. If there is a tile cutter - good, no - use a glass cutter or a scriber with a victorious solder. Mark the cutting line, fix the plate on flat surface and draw along the line several times with the tool. Next, you need to put the tile with cutting marks on a couple of nails and gently press - you have a finished trim. If you use a tile cutter, run the roller once, repetitions lead to marriage.
In this way, they cut straight, but tiling the walls also involves curly cut. Cut holes for the pipes with a grinder with a diamond wheel. If there are few holes, but there is no angle grinder, you can use a cheap diamond-coated canvas. But this is a labor-intensive and long process, and is justified only economically.
After laying the tiles on the wall and floor, the seams are cleaned of glue and rubbed with a special compound. The grout is applied to a rubber spatula and the gaps between the plates are filled with the mixture. Depending on the material and skill, 1-4 are processed in one approach. square meters. The remains are removed with a foam sponge. With it, the filler is brought to a smooth state, distributing the grout evenly over the seams.
Do-it-yourself wall cladding that you mastered on basic level requires an understanding of the nuances. Some of them:
Costs for facing a bathroom with an area of 3.5 m²:
Total laying cost us 1305 rubles + the cost of tiles and preparatory work(plasters). If you are doing wall cladding with your own hands, you will need to invest in the missing tools. For wall cladding in a bathroom of such an area, the tiler will take at least 13-15 thousand rubles, along with grout. Buy a tool that will remain with you forever and do everything yourself, or pay for the work of the master and calmly drink tea during styling - everyone will decide for himself.
comments powered by HyperCommentsLaying tiles on the floor can be done by any home master. It is only necessary to strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and perform all actions in strict sequence.
A tile (this is what ceramic tile products are most often called) is a very popular material. It is characterized by excellent external data, durability during operation in various conditions, high strength and abrasion resistance. It is also important that the care of ceramic tiles is really simple.
With proper installation, tiles from the first days of operation demonstrate all their special qualities. Most often it is laid in kitchens, hallways and bathrooms.
And here you need to know that tiled products for these rooms should be chosen different. Each type of tile has its own special performance indicators.
Variety of ceramic tiles
For kitchens, for example, it is recommended to purchase and install tiles with your own hands, which are classified in terms of abrasion to the third class. This is related to the fact that floor coverings in such premises are exposed (and constantly) to the influence of various negative factors.
Something always crumbles, falls, spills on the kitchen floors. Therefore, they are simply obliged to resist well such physical, mechanical and chemical influences. Experts, in addition, do not advise buying tiles with a porous or textured surface for the kitchen. She is very difficult to take care of.
Tiles of a small abrasion class are suitable for bathrooms and bathrooms. In these rooms for hygiene procedures, the traffic is not so high as to be spent on buying expensive ceramic tiles. Do not opt for glossy products - they are really slippery and not suitable for the bathroom. It is better to choose a tile with high resistance to moisture and a variety of chemical compounds.
But on the floor in the hallway, it makes sense to purchase the most durable tile (class 4). Laying such an expensive material will fully justify itself with long-term trouble-free operation in difficult conditions. It is in the hallways of apartments and residential buildings that there is always a high permeability of people.
The preparation of the floor base for the installation of tiled products on it should be approached as responsibly as possible. First you need to remove the old coating. This operation is carried out with a perforator with a nozzle in the form of a spatula, or with a chisel and an ordinary hammer.
When dismantling old tiles or other coatings with your own hands, do not forget to wear gloves. They will protect your hands from injury and serious injury. Goggles and a special mask that protects the respiratory system from dust will also be useful. Instead, you can use a respirator.
Mortar for laying tiles
High-quality do-it-yourself tile laying is impossible on a curved and sloping floor. The base must be absolutely level. Align it like this:
Laying ceramic tiles on the prepared base is then carried out after 48-72 hours.
Wooden floor coverings are not leveled with sand-cement compounds. They are prepared in a different way. Soak the floor in oily special paint, perform the installation of a waterproofing layer, on which they place small gravel and reinforcing thin mesh. From above, such a “pie” is poured with a liquid solution of cement. Then wait for the complete solidification of the base.
The amount of tiles required for the work is easy to calculate. It is done like this:
Installation of tiles in the bathroom
This completes the calculations. You know how many tiles you need to purchase. But it is recommended to add another 12-15 percent of the material to this exact figure. Do-it-yourself tile laying does not always go smoothly. Some of the tiles will crack, some of them you will have to cut. It is better to play it safe and take a tile with a small margin.
Laying tiles with your own hands is easiest in one of two ways:
The first method is considered more complex. It is usually used when laying tiles on the floor is carried out in spacious rooms. To lay a tile, you need to divide the floor base into equal sections (into four sectors). To do this, you need to draw a line (straight) down in the middle of one wall, and then make another line perpendicular to the first. Marking is made from the point of their intersection.
Laying tiles after that can start from the corner you like in the center of the room. Moreover, a trimmed tile that is identical in geometric parameters with this technique will always be mounted around the perimeter of the room.
The second method is best used for rooms with original geometry and for rooms in which the floor has a relatively small area. This technique is always used by novice craftsmen who decide to lay ceramics with their own hands for the first time.
Whatever method of tile installation you choose, first do a test. Just spread the tiles around the room, mark their locations, leave room for tile joints. This will save you from serious mistakes, and hence from excessive consumption of material, and from tightening installation work.
Get glue. It is sold in the form of dry formulations that need to be diluted with water, as well as in a ready-to-use form. Dry mixes are cheaper, and it’s not difficult to breed them (all the information is in the instructions for the glue). It is recommended to cook a small amount of composition, so that it does not have time to harden if the installation process does not go very well.
Laying tiles in the bathroom
You also need to stock up on special ones. It is with its help that you will install the tile. Spatulas may have teeth U shape, V-shaped or square. The latter type of tools are ideal for laying medium-sized tiles with high quality. And for large tiles It is better to use a spatula with teeth in the shape of the letter U.
The scheme for laying ceramic tiles is as follows:
Small (3-5 mm) gaps should be left between the tiles around the perimeter of the room. They are mounted suture plastic separators in the form of crosses. This is not done for beauty. Such crosses do not allow the tile to crack, bend and swell after installation is completed.
After the glue has dried, remove all small debris from the joints and treat them with grout with moisture resistant characteristics. It is desirable to apply such a composition with a rubber spatula. Then you need to wait a few hours and carefully wipe the laid tiles with a soft cloth.
Do it in a day wet cleaning gender. You were able to lay the tiles yourself. Congratulations!
