It takes a long time and is ineffective, since the varietal characteristics of the resulting seedlings are much worse than the parent ones. Only by using vaccinations can one preserve varietal diversity fruit and berry crops.
The time for harvesting the first harvest is significantly reduced: if from a seed you can wait up to 10 years, then from grafted trees it is already 2-3 years.
The cuttings do not need to be prepared in advance, but cut before grafting.
An unsuccessful spring vaccination can be compensated for by a summer one, and the year will not be lost.
In summer, the graft quickly and firmly fuses with the rootstock and does not require labor-intensive care.
By autumn it becomes clear whether it has taken root.
All selected cuttings can be used.
Reproduction and preservation of a rich assortment cultivated plants possible only by vaccination
Vaccinations help to successfully solve many problems, increase the endurance of trees, rejuvenate the garden, heal trees with damaged bark and branches, and combine them on one rootstock. different varieties and save space on the site.
If you graft tall variety for a dwarf rootstock, tree care and harvesting will be simplified.
For successful vaccination activities, stable heat and developed root system mother plant. The time for the first summer grafting occurs at the beginning of June, when the tips of the buds of the rootstock turn green - this indicates active sap flow. During this period, tissue formation occurs quickly.
The second stage begins when young shoots stop growing, the axillary buds have already matured and can be harvested as grafting material. Approximate dates are from July 20 to mid-August. They can shift depending on the climate of the region and the type of tree.
Re-grafting can be done on any fruit trees, both young and old. You can control the condition of the bark - if it comes off easily, the tree can be grafted. The procedure is carried out on a cloudy day, preferably before 10 am. The graft must be shaded from the sun, and the “embedded” sprout must be attached to the rootstock, for which they are tied with twine.
Select one, the most effective method, is impossible, since all methods are used in practice and have their own advantages.
In nurseries, budding is most often carried out, because propagation by cuttings requires harvesting large quantities grafting material. This method guarantees high bud survival rate, especially if the rootstock and scion are close relatives. Pears are grafted first, then summer varieties of apples, cherries and apricots. Next comes the turn of quinces and plums, and the peach is postponed until the end of August.
Mature annual shoots with buds are cut before budding; the buds are taken from the middle part of the shoot, leaving cuttings up to 1 cm. In summer, budding is carried out by the crown into a cut T-shape and butt.
After 3 weeks, the harness is removed. When the eye does not take root, budding is repeated if time permits.
Re-grafting is also carried out using cuttings: splitting, behind the bark with a cut in the bark and a bridge.
One of the methods summer vaccination- split grafting The long-standing and proven method of grafting - splitting - has one drawback: it severely damages the branch, and these wounds take a long time and are difficult to heal. Therefore, a more gentle method is used - half-split, when the cut of the end part of the hemp of the rootstock is not brought to its opposite side. The handle is sharpened on both sides in the shape of a wedge; its outer part should be wider than the inner. For a tighter fixation, hangers are cut out on it, with which it will rest on the edges of the cut, and the bark of the cutting should coincide with the bark of the rootstock. Clay is filled into the cleft, and the open areas are treated with garden pitch.
To graft a cutting onto the bark of the selected tree, the width of the ends of the sawed off branches should be 7-10 cm. Larger ones have coarse bark, and on thin branches the cuttings will develop poorly due to their instability. The stump is smoothed, the bark is cut lengthwise in its upper part and separated. The length of the cut is equal to or slightly shorter than the cut of the cutting. The cuttings are cut obliquely, cut at the top above the third bud and inserted into the cut. The grafted area is wrapped with twine, and garden putty is applied to the stump. Up to 3 cuttings are grafted onto 1 stump, but they are finally left for further development only one.
Bridge grafting becomes necessary when there is significant damage to the tree by mice or the sun. If the defects are on one side, one bridge is enough; when the area of damage is large, bridges are placed at intervals of 3 cm. The cuttings will connect the separated areas and will supply the tree with moisture and nutrients. The length of the cuttings is 5-6 cm longer than the damaged fragments; the cuts are made beveled on both sides. The edges of the damaged areas must be cleaned, the bark from above and below must be cut lengthwise, and the ends of the cuttings must be inserted with cuts to the wood of the trunk. To ensure a tight fit, they are tied with twine and wrapped in plastic film to retain moisture.
In the video, Alexander Rudenko, gardener, p. Spichenkovo shows how to do a summer vaccination. One of best videos by budding.
If you have a garden and flower garden, then learning how to graft trees and shrubs is a must. Moreover, this procedure is not particularly complicated and can be done by anyone, even a novice gardener.
Kidney (eye) grafting considered the most accessible and in a simple way to improve a growing tree or obtain a new variety. The name of the budding method comes from the Latin oculus, which means “eye”.
In the process of grafting fruit trees, you need to know and observe quite a lot of specific subtleties. This is exactly what will be discussed in this article, how to do budding step by step.
In the process of growing a garden, many owners often face the need to graft an apple tree. Causes may be the following:
The procedure for grafting fruit trees is akin to surgery. Although, if you carefully follow the instructions below, you can easily cope with this task.
Depending on the grafting method and climate zone, an apple tree can be grafted almost all year round.
Typically, tree grafting is done to increase productivity, as well as to obtain more valuable varieties. On one rootstock - this is the tree to which the scion is grafted - even different varieties and types of scion can easily coexist (grafted onto the rootstock). Before grafting an apple tree, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools and materials:
Apple tree budding in summer carried out by a dormant bud, which forms over the past months of the season. But a new shoot should be expected no earlier than next year, when the grafting has already begun to grow.
At the time of this procedure, the bark on the apple rootstock should be easily separated from the wood, and grafting is performed in two ways:
Budding with wood
It is the fastest and easiest method of grafting, in which the bark is separated only from the rootstock area.
Budding without wood
To do this, you have to wait until the bark comes off quite easily on both the scion and the rootstock.
The survival rate of buds on apple trees will be best if budding is carried out several weeks before the average daily temperature drops to 15 degrees.
In cool and dry weather, the grafting for the tree will be less painful. In sunny summer weather, budding of apple trees is carried out from dawn until 10 a.m., as well as after 4 p.m. until sunset. In cloudy weather, if the tree is not in danger of being burned, vaccinations are done without restrictions and during the daytime. Trees whose growing season ended earlier are grafted first.
For creating the best conditions For the upcoming wintering and activation of the movement of juices, the rootstocks for the apple tree are very well watered several weeks before budding.
And also, it is desirable in early spring, above the site of the proposed budding by 25 cm, the rootstock ( skeletal branches an apple tree of a different variety or a wild one) is cut.
Usually, budding is done from the north side of the rootstock. In this case, it is selected comfortable spot 5–6 centimeters above the root collar. Although in rainy climates, in order to avoid overheating of the scion, the apple tree is grafted ten centimeters from the soil level and on light soils. And on clay soil budding is carried out at a height of about 15 centimeters.
Budding of the apple tree on the root collar is done closer to autumn, since in other areas the bark practically does not separate. The optimal height is considered to be 10 centimeters from the surface of the earth.
With this method of budding, a thin fragment of wood is cut from the scion, which thickens in the bud area. To do this, the vascular-fibrous bundle leading to the eye is cut. The shield itself has the same width throughout and a length of up to 25 millimeters. The shield can be cut a centimeter longer in order to hold it by the upper tip, and then cut off after inserting it onto the rootstock.
On the rootstock itself the following is done:
- a transverse incision from bottom to top at the site of future grafting.
- longitudinal semicircular cut.
Scheme of proper budding.
The eye inserted into the T-shaped cut should press tightly against the wood of the tree rootstock. In this case, the kidney should be located closer to the lower part of the slot in the cortex in order to heal better.
After inserting the shield, it is from bottom to top squeeze, and the grafting site is tied. In this case, the scion bud is closed or left in the air. Although fusion will be more effective if the entire surface of the shield, together with the kidney, is placed under a tape that will prevent them from drying out.
Although this budding of an apple tree is more complicated than the method described above, the absence of wood gives a greater chance of successful fusion of the scion and rootstock tissues.
To do this, the cut starts above the bud a centimeter, and ends below it at least 0.7 cm. To separate the vascular-fibrous bundle and the section of the cortex along with the bud, press on the eye from the side, moving it away from the handle.
If the bundle is not preserved on the reverse (back) side of the cortex, the kidney becomes unsuitable for budding, and the procedure is repeated.
The technique of cutting and subsequent insertion of the eye is identical to that described above. The only thing here is that skill is needed to secure the bud, since the drying bark will curl up.
Many gardeners know that grafting fruit trees is not always successful. In case the scion dies, you can insure yourself by using budding with two buds. To do this, you need to create a reserve in order to select the best shoots in the spring.
When budding two buds at the same time, the eyes are grafted one above the other onto the rootstock different sides branches or trunk.
This apple tree budding can be useful in summer if:
Bud budding in butt
For this purpose, vaccination the knife is placed at an angle and make a cut on the rootstock in the same way as budding with a bud (a semicircular incision is made). Only a small layer of wood is also cut through along with the bark.
The bark from the rootstock area is cut off and a second cut is made, which is approximately 30 mm higher than the first.
Almost the same size as the prepared place on the rootstock, the shield is cut off from the scion and inserted directly from the knife into the area allocated for it.
The grafting site is wrapped.
Grafting apple trees with fresh cuttings in the spring is carried out in several ways:
Grafting an apple tree using the copulation method
This method is used when the thickness of the scion and rootstock is the same.
Easy way:
It consists of applying slices to each other equal circle. Using a grafting pruner you can make similar cuts, which take root very well in the future.
The grafting is done in no more than a minute, otherwise the cut on the rootstock may dry out and the engraftment process will be more difficult.
Tongue copulation:
There is a more labor-intensive copulation method, which involves another small incision on the cut itself. It is done on both the scion and the rootstock. The gaps are inserted completely into each other, but without force, without causing a break.
Thus, the layer between the wood and the bark (cambium) grows together much faster due to the good fixation of the scion and rootstock to each other.
Then the grafting site is treated with garden varnish and wrapped with plastic film or special tape.
With this grafting method, the rootstock and scion are chosen to have the same diameter, although it is possible to have different diameters. A thick branch is cut evenly with a garden saw and split with a sharp knife. Two cuttings with oblique cuts are inserted into the gap so that the cambium of the rootstock and scion are in close contact. The graft is wrapped in plastic film.
The cutting is cut along with the stump, and a vertical cut is made on the scion's bark, which is pulled back with a knife.
Then a scion is inserted under the bark, and the junction is treated with garden varnish and wrapped with tape from below and above.
Before grafting apple trees into a side cut, two oblique cuts are made on the cutting, connecting at the bottom.
An incision is made on the rootstock, which needs to be slightly bent and the scion inserted so that the surfaces of the cambium are in close contact. The vaccination site is processed and wrapped.
Is it possible to vaccinate in the fall? In this case, the tree must be grafted in such a way that the cutting takes root before the onset of frost. In autumn, this procedure is also carried out using budding. If the vaccination is carried out indoors, then you can use the split method described above. In this case, you can graft one or two cuttings. After grafting, the plant is taken to a prepared room where the temperature is low above zero. There it will wait for spring planting.
Later two weeks after budding Apple trees can determine the survival rate of buds. For inspection, loosen the harness, trying not to disturb the peephole. A dried leaf petiole, as well as a shiny bud that has increased in size, indicate good development peephole Then the winding is done again, which is maintained until September.
If the grafting was unsuccessful, and the weather still allows for the budding to be repeated, the grafting is repeated in any suitable way. But this is done on back side shoot, as well as below or above the dried cut.
In conclusion, I would like to once again draw special attention to the following main points:
Knowing different ways budding an apple tree, any gardener can easily choose the most acceptable and suitable one for himself. For beginners, we can recommend the method of grafting into clefts, since it is quite simple and effective, although it is more labor-intensive.
Apple tree budding: photos and videos
Preface
To expand plantings fruit crops, garden trees are being grafted into wildflowers and seedlings, but at the same time it is necessary to strictly adhere to the deadlines for each individual species.
Often the basis of reproduction garden tree is not a seed or a seed, but a stalk, that is, a small piece of a woody young branch (not a shoot) with buds. Moreover, planting and rooting do not always give positive results, and even if the tree grows, it will not begin to produce a harvest soon. That is why vaccination is the most quick way get a strong fruit-bearing tree.
Grafting a fruiting tree
However, it should be remembered that this operation requires not only a scion (that same cutting), but also a rootstock, that is, a trunk or trunk with a good root system. And the life rhythms of both parts must coincide, otherwise, no matter how much you add them, they will not take root. That is why they have been tracking for a long time optimal timing For different types fruit trees and their individual varieties.
For example, stone fruits, such as cherries, plums and apricots, awaken in the spring earlier than seed trees, and therefore you need to start working with them first.. But this is if we are talking about scions; rootstocks also need to be selected according to the time of the beginning of the movement of juices in the cambium (fibers under the bark), which becomes green during this period. If you plant a cutting before the roots begin to drive nutrients down the trunk, it most likely will not take root.
As mentioned above, the movement of juices in the trunks of stone fruit crops begins very early, so it is very important to carry out grafting at the very beginning of the awakening of fruit trees, before the buds swell. Optimal time For this, the beginning of March is considered, when you are convinced that the thaws are already confidently removing the snow cover from the ground.
Cherry grafting
But this does not mean that grafting of drupes can be carried out exclusively at the beginning of spring, these are only the most suitable days, especially since the movement of juices can begin earlier or later and continues until April. Cuttings should be brought into a room with normal room temperature the day before the planned vaccination, their sections must be renewed, in addition, their lower part should be placed in warm water.
In general, cherries, like cherries, can be propagated by cuttings in the summer, it all depends on the grafting method. So, it is best to carry out budding in the butt closer to August (and up to its middle), at this time the bark peels off no worse than in early spring, but there is no risk that frost will return. Budding with a shield can be performed both in early spring and in summer, from July to August. Copulation, on the contrary, is best done only in early spring, when cut trees actively secrete gum.
The propagation period for plum varieties is much wider than the period when grafting of cherry and cherry trees is possible, although all these trees are stone fruit trees. Interestingly, you can plant plum cuttings not only in spring or summer, but even in winter, although this method has some subtleties, which we will talk about later. In regions located closer to the south, where winter is quite warm and comes late, autumn grafting can also be practiced, but its reliability depends solely on the climatic characteristics of the area. However, we will consider the first three methods, in which the probability of survival of cuttings is much higher.
The most common is, since at this time other plants reproduce in the same way. Like other stone fruits, plums begin to enter the growing season early, so depending on the region, grafting cuttings onto the rootstock can begin as early as the end of February, weather permitting. The time for plum grafting usually ends in mid-April. There are many methods, but the most popular are copulation into the cleft and into the butt, as well as by the bark. Moreover, the first 2 options must be completed before the trees awaken, that is, from the end of February to the beginning of March.
Spring grafting of plum
It is better to carry out summer grafting from mid-summer until the first ten days of August inclusive, that is, after harvesting. At this time, the movement of juices is especially strong, since the tree does not need to supply its fruits with nutrients. At the same time, it is very convenient to carry out budding with buds, which are born to throw out shoots for the next year. They are cut with a shield of bark and cambium, and immediately superimposed on exactly the same cut made on the rootstock. Based on the fact that the plum ages quite quickly, it is better to cut the buds from two-year-old trees and graft them onto cherry plum, which has been growing for more than a dozen years and is more resistant to diseases.
But the most interesting way– plum grafting in winter, also by budding. For this purpose, annual seedlings of suitable fruit trees are dug up in advance; you can also use young seedlings purchased in the fall. Both are placed in a cold cellar until the day of grafting along with the cuttings. Having chosen the time between the end of December and the first ten days of February inclusive, you need to cut off an eye with a fairly wide shield from the cutting and attach it to a similar cut on the trunk of the seedling or on the trunk of young root shoots.
Then all that remains is to wrap it tightly with plastic tape, coat it with garden varnish and put the connected parts of the plants in a box covered with film, then sprinkled with moistened moss. We leave the box for 7–8 days in a warm room, after which we transfer it to the cellar until planting.
Apricot grafting, like other fruit trees, is most successful in the spring, when the movement of juices is most active, but other grafting times are possible. It is optimal to start propagation by cuttings from the end of March and during the first ten days of April, making sure that warm days have finally replaced frosts. In this case, it is better to choose the time on cloudy days, when it is not too hot and the air humidity is quite high (but cloudy weather is not suitable, since the likelihood of rain is too high).
If you are late with the spring vaccination, you can start it in the summer, when there will definitely be no frost. It is better to start in July and continue until the first week of August inclusive. Whether to increase this period depends on the geographic location of the region; if frosts can begin in early September, the cuttings may not take root completely and will most likely die. As with spring grafting, it is better to choose cloudy days, and after fixing the scion, be sure to thoroughly water the rootstock, which is usually a cherry plum, plum or apricot seedling.
Attaching a scion to an apricot
As a last resort, if the climate zone allows, you can try to perform autumn grafting, but only if frosts occur no earlier than mid-October each year. In this case, the cutting is fixed in the second ten days of September, and before the cold weather it will certainly have time to take root, especially if the cambium layers of the scion are accurately connected to the rootstock. It should be remembered that even covering at night will not help if in the dark the temperature begins to drop significantly, creating a sharp difference with the warmth of daylight.
Budding of apricots with buds is rarely performed, since the cuttings of this crop are more viable.
Like most fruit trees, pears are best propagated by cuttings in the spring. But, due to the fact that seed species wake up from winter dormancy later than stone fruits, the period from the last ten days of April to the first week of May is considered optimal for grafting using the budding method. It is at this time that active sap flow occurs in pear varieties.
Pear budding
Of course, the timing may shift depending on the climatic zone; it is best to determine the readiness of the rootstock to accept the cutting by the ease of separating the bark and the green color of the cambium. Test cuts should be made carefully, trying not to pick up the bark over a long section and not to plunge the knife blade deep into the wood. Immediately cover all wounds with clay or cover them with garden varnish. Pear cuttings can be grafted from spring to autumn, but, again, best time will be when the juices can supply the scion with nutrients most actively.
That is, this is the period from the moment the tree awakens until it blooms, as well as from summer to autumn, the period from harvesting to active leaf fall. During these periods, any copulation methods are allowed, the main thing is that the buds on the cuttings do not begin to awaken before the onset of frost, and in winter, when the weather warms up, the scion and rootstock will take root well. By the way, in winter period you can also graft prepared cuttings (as described above for apricot propagation), and you can use different methods, except for the “for the bark” option.
Almost everything fruit trees need to be propagated strictly during the growing season; apple trees are no exception. Cuttings prepared in the fall are grafted onto the rootstock mostly in the spring, less often in winter time. In the first case, you need to choose the period from April to May, mainly in the last and first ten days of these months, respectively.
As for, ideally, a one-year-old seedling should be in a warm room, and rooted in a container. Both a bud and a cutting can be grafted onto such a rootstock, especially if the latter is suitable in diameter (so that the cambium layers coincide). It is noteworthy that it is quite difficult to graft an apple tree onto a pear tree, while a pear tree takes root very well on an apple tree.
In summer, sap flow is most beneficial for scion cuttings only after the tree branches are free of fruit. Therefore, in early August, when pruning of some branches that did not produce a harvest begins, in the places where young apple trees or cotoneaster or chokeberry (also known as chokeberry) cuttings can be fixed into the cleft. However, it must be remembered that in summer days the air is quite dry, even if the weather is cloudy, so it is recommended to water the rootstock well during the period of establishment of the cutting.
Do you want to be a good gardener and receive annual big harvest? Then this article is for you. After all, a real gardener must know all the secrets of proper tree care.
Do you want to get delicious fruit from your fruit trees? Then it is necessary to budding fruit trees in summer period. This procedure is quite easy and even a novice gardener can cope with it.
Budding of fruit trees is often called grafting. This is the process of transferring one part of a plant to another. Over time, the transferred part fuses with the tree. Experts distinguish several methods of vaccination:
In copulation, a cutting is used. To carry out this procedure, annual shoots with 3-4 buds are used.
Ablation - grafting with a plant. This method is rarely used and is considered difficult.
Budding is the grafting of a plant by vegetative means - by bud. It is cut from an annual shoot with bark and small area wood.
Budding is considered easier to perform. This method of grafting promotes better fusion with the rootstock, which means that the grafted variety will take root faster.
Fruit trees are often budding if plants of the desired variety are not available for sale. Why is this procedure so popular not only among amateurs, but also among specialists in their field?
An undeniable advantage of budding fruit trees is the safety more space. After all, experienced gardeners often graft several varieties onto one plant. Thus, not only space is saved, but also new taste qualities of the fruit are created.
The advantages of budding fruit trees are obvious. But you should understand the merits of this process.
Many experts claim that from almost any formed bud of the selected plant, you can get a healthy fruit tree with all the advantages of the selected variety. The budding process itself is quite simple and can be handled by a novice gardener. The procedure is completed quite quickly.
Thanks to small area grafting, the integrity of the rootstock is practically not compromised, and the branch is not injured. If for one reason or another you were unable to complete the procedure correctly the first time, you can re-graft on the same rootstock.
The advantage of budding is the fact that for grafting it is necessary to use a minimum of rootstock material. This is especially important if the gardener has only a few cuttings.
There are several ways to graft fruit trees. They differ in the type of scion.
According to the technique of implementation, vaccinations are distinguished:
These methods are the most popular. But in practice, many gardeners use only 5 of them.
Vaccinations are also distinguished according to the location of the scion. They can be performed on the following part of the plant:
In addition, the scion can be located either from above or from the side. Grafting from above requires cutting off the top of the plant. So new variety the top of the tree will form. A lateral graft is formed from the side of the trunk, without cutting off the top of the rootstock.
The timing of fruit tree budding varies. This procedure can be performed in spring, summer and winter.
Vaccination in spring time carried out during a period of intense sap flow. In this case, the scion is harvested at the end of autumn or at the very beginning of spring, when it is still in dormant mode. Spring vaccination is carried out in April or May. Make sure that the buds have not yet had time to swell.
In the summer, vaccination should be done from July. Dates for summer budding of fruit trees: from July 20 to August 31. Shoots and buds that have been well developed throughout the year are used as a scion.
Winter vaccination is carried out indoors. Exactly at winter months the seedling grows together. And in the spring, already grafted plants are planted in the ground. Vaccination can be done in winter. The main thing is that the air temperature should not be below +2°C.
The most productive vaccinations are considered to be summer and autumn. Indeed, during this period, the tree bark moves well away from the trunk, and the cambium, in turn, divides well. Therefore, the procedure is greatly simplified, which ensures good kidney survival.
The time when this procedure can be performed has already been agreed upon. But what is the time frame for budding fruit trees? And when is the best time to vaccinate?
They begin to perform this procedure in early August. Gardeners are actively working for the next 4 weeks. First of all, stone fruit varieties (plum, cherry, cherry plum) are grafted, and then pome varieties (pear, apple).
Pay attention to the fact that the bud and the wild bird are of the required development. The buds and eyes that appear on the shoots must finally form. How can we determine this? Experienced gardeners bend the selected shoot. If you hear a crunch, then the rootstocks are ready. At the same time, we remember that the bark should come off well.
Budding is carried out before the end of summer, when the plant’s growing season continues.
Vaccination carried out in more than early date threatens that the cuttings may germinate. And at the first frost, unable to withstand the temperature, they die. Conversely, vaccination carried out at a later date often does not have time to take root.
Experienced gardeners know that this procedure is quite simple, but requires compliance with certain rules. Do you want the new variety to take root well? The following rules should be followed:
One of the common methods of budding fruit trees is eye grafting. In this case, a single bud acts as a scion. In the spring, the bud formed last summer is grafted. Gardeners prepare scion from cuttings collected in autumn or winter. This grafting method has an advantage due to which it is often chosen by gardeners. After all, already this season the grafted bud will begin to grow.
Summer budding occurs from a bud that has matured this season. A new shoot will form from it only next spring.
When choosing plants for summer budding of fruit trees (grafting) with buds, you should carefully examine the elements.
First of all, the shoots must be small. Their diameter is no more than 15 mm. The rootstock should have elastic, young bark, which can later be easily cut with a knife.
Inspect the internodes for budding. They should be free of knots and swellings. The surface should be smooth and even.
A bud for budding must be selected that is fully mature and well developed.
Remember that all cuttings used for grafting should be taken from fruit trees standard types. Special attention attention should be paid to intravarietal selection of cuttings for grafting.
Cuttings from old trees affected by diseases should not be used. You also can’t use young varieties that haven’t yet bear fruit, because you don’t know exactly what kind of harvest you can get from this tree.
Many processes in our lives have their pros and cons, including vaccination. Budding of fruit trees has its own characteristics; for some it is not suitable. For example, evergreen trees cannot be grafted. So, let's talk about the advantages of this procedure:
Vaccination also has its disadvantages:
Despite many disadvantages, it should be remembered that summer budding of fruit trees is important. Sometimes this is the only way for plants to reproduce.
Budding fruit trees in the summer is difficult alone. Therefore, many novice gardeners need to find an assistant. One person will graft, and the other will tie the element with the kidney with tissue.
It is important to prepare a good, sharp, clean knife and a cloth from natural materials. This can be cotton cloth or gauze.
A week before the procedure, you should prepare the game. Near the neck of the root you need to rake away the soil. At the same time, you should check the separation of the bark of the rootstock. Is the bark coming off well? You can carry out the procedure.
If the bark on the rootstock does not separate well, you should water the plant well. This way, before budding, plant growth is activated and the bark will come off well. Remember that the bud will not take root on wild birds whose bark does not shed well.
Experts have prepared some tips for gardeners. Budding of fruit trees will be successful if all recommendations are followed.
Vaccination is performed in sunny, windless weather.
Before performing the procedure, wipe the barrel with a wet cloth. We use only mature buds for grafting. It is not recommended to use the lower and apical eyes, because they are not sufficiently developed.
A cutting with wood and bark is cut from the tree. They form a shield.
To obtain a shield, make a 1.5-2 cm incision on the trunk slightly below the bud. They begin to cut off the shield 2 cm above the kidney. The knife is driven downwards, touching the bark, cambium and sapwood.
The resulting shield is wedged into the cut in the bark and bandaged, securely covering everything except the kidney.
A positive result largely depends on the experience of the gardener, the cleanliness of the knife, speed and high-quality dressing. Almost 99% of grafting of pome varieties is successful, which cannot be said about stone fruit varieties.
The fusion of the bud with the trunk occurs quickly. After 2-2.5 weeks it is necessary to check the survival process.
A positive result is indicated by:
If the result is negative, then the eye becomes dull and dry. Over time, it shrinks and dies.
After the kidney has taken root, cultivation should be performed. This process will make the bud less dense.
In autumn, the tree is well watered and hilled.
Budding is an effective way to make your tree more fertile and healthy. This inexpensive and simple method can be mastered by a novice amateur gardener.
Do you want to get a good and tasty harvest? Then pay attention to proper care behind the plant. And the main thing is to choose good and suitable cuttings for budding.
Every gardener should know this grafting method.
When propagated by seeds, all fruit and berry plants produce heterogeneous offspring, and the properties of hybrid seedlings are significantly worse compared to their parents. Therefore, it is impossible to obtain exactly Antonovka from the seeds of the Antonovka apple tree. Antonovka's offspring, grown from seeds, will be very diverse in terms of fruit quality and will not be similar to Antonovka. Therefore, propagation and preservation of a rich assortment of cultivated plants is possible only by grafting.
Vaccination methods are different. The greatest application in practice is eye grafting - budding in the nursery. This - reliable way propagation of valuable varieties. By grafting a valuable variety onto a dwarf rootstock, you can reduce the growth of the fruit tree. Dwarf trees are convenient for picking, processing and caring for fruits. They enter the fruiting season earlier.
Various ways vaccinations are used when breeding and improving new varieties, but the most important and necessary value is grafting when improving the assortment in existing plantings, as well as when treating trees damaged by frost and rodents. Grafting is useful in that any low-value variety can be re-grafted with a valuable variety, improving the garden assortment. In the gardens of amateur gardeners, sometimes there is not enough pollinator for the right variety. This drawback can be easily corrected by grafting a pollinator variety into the crown of any tree.
Re-grafting can be done on any trees, both young and old. By re-grafting, they simultaneously rejuvenate the tree, replacing old skeletal branches with cuttings from which young branches grow.
The most common and practically acceptable methods of grafting are: cuttings behind the bark with a cut in the bark, half-split, bridge.
Trees on which it is intended to graft cuttings onto the bark with a cut in the bark are rejuvenated in early spring in such a way that the remaining cuttings at the cut (at the end) are from 7 to 10 centimeters thick. Larger branches should not be sawed off, since the bark in their thick part can be too rough and poorly suited for grafting. It is also not recommended to saw off weak branches for grafting. Cutting grafted into a thin top part bitch, due to her unstable position she will develop very poorly. The main disadvantage of grafting onto thin branches is that most of the tree crown remains ungrafted.
It is necessary to ensure that on the stump, below the grafting site, there is a shoot, which at first is needed to provide the grafted cutting with nutrition. Sawed-off (torn) stumps are smoothed before grafting by cutting with a sharp knife so that they float faster. The grafting (insertion) of the cutting should be carried out during the period when sap flow begins, approximately in the last days of May. A cutting for insertion behind the bark is prepared as follows: with a sharp copulating knife, an oblique cut is made on the side opposite the lower bud, and at the top, strictly above the third (upper) bud, it is cut off. The miter cut can be made with a straight or saddle ledge.
In the place of the hemp where the prepared cutting is to be inserted, the bark is cut lengthwise and separated from the wood with the bone of a grafting knife. The length of the cut in the hemp bark should be equal to or slightly less than the length of the oblique cut of the cutting. The cut for inserting the cutting must be made in the upper part of the stump, since the branches in the crown of the tree are not located vertically, but obliquely. You can graft 2-3 cuttings into one stump, since during the growth process the grafts break off in the wind.
But finally, for life, you need to leave only one well-established cutting, the future branch. Having unfolded the bark with the pit, the cutting is inserted so that its oblique cut faces the wood of the rootstock, and the ledge (shoulder or saddle) rests firmly on the end of the stump.
In order for the cutting to fit more tightly with an oblique cut to the hemp wood and not fall out from under the bark, the grafts must be tied with large twine or strong washcloth and the area of the hemp should be covered with soft garden putty.
The ancient, simplest method of grafting trees by splitting has its own positive sides: you can graft them on old trees, broken large branches, without waiting for sap flow; it is simple in technique. But a split made across the entire thickness of the stump branch causes too serious damage, which is very difficult and slow to heal. Often, splitting leads to wood rotting and hollow formation. IN garden practice an improved grafting method was introduced - half-split.
When grafting half-split, the bough or branch is first cut down, after which the end part of the branch's foam is beveled, cutting it obliquely. After smoothing trimming with a knife, a split is made on the horizontal part of the branch cut so that it does not reach the opposite side of the branch stump. Cuttings for half-split grafting are prepared as follows: two oblique cuts are made on the cutting (on opposite sides, slightly retreating from the lower bud), giving it a flat wedge-shaped shape. The wedge must be made in such a way that its outer part is wider than the inner edge of the grafting cutting.
For better fixation and strength, straight ledges called shoulders are cut out in the upper part of the cutting intended for grafting. When placing a cutting in a split, you need to ensure that its bark coincides with the bark of the hemp, and its shoulders rest against the edges of the split. It is better to fill the crack with clay, and cover the top of the hemp and cuttings with garden varnish. A well-clamped cutting in a split does not need to be tied.
To prevent the death of a tree eaten by mice, damaged by sunburn, or stripped by tools, bridge grafting is recommended. If the bark is only partially damaged, on one side of the trunk and branches, then usually one bridge (cutting) is inserted. In case of extensive damage, when the bark is destroyed on a trunk or branch all around, so many bridges are placed so that the distance from one to the other does not exceed 3 cm. Fused bridges connect separated sections of the bark of the trunk or branches and provide recharge and water supply to areas of the tree located above the site of damage.
Bridge grafting should be performed in the spring, when sap flow is particularly active, but it can also be done in the summer, during the second sap flow.
For spring vaccination The bridge uses annual shoots, which are harvested in the fall or early spring, but before the buds swell. The cuttings are made so that their length exceeds the length of the damaged areas of the bark by 5-6 centimeters. At the ends of the cuttings, beveled cuts are made on one side using a copulating knife in the same way as with the “bark” grafting method. Before inserting the bridges, the edges of the wound are cleaned, and longitudinal cuts are made at the top and bottom. The length of the cuts in the bark should be significantly less than the length of the beveled cuts on the grafting cutting. The ends of the prepared cuttings are inserted into these cuts under the bark so that its lower part (in the direction of growth) comes to the bottom of the wound, and the upper part to the top. Oblique cuts of the cutting should be directed towards the wood of the trunk.
It is very important that the cutting is somewhat longer and springs a little after insertion into the cuts. The inserted cuttings must be tightly tied at the top and bottom with twine or adhesive PVC tape; you can nail them with thin nails and cover them with soft garden putty. It is advisable to tie all grafting sites with plastic wrap or burlap with white paper to retain moisture and to prevent buds from sprouting on the inserted bridges. During the summer, it is necessary to review the vaccinations and loosen the ties.
Bridges grafted from cuttings in most cases quickly grow into the stem tissue or into the tissue of tree branches, take on the role of a water conductor and nutrients and thereby save the tree from death.
