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» A vortex heat generator is a new source of heat in the house. All the details about making vortex heat generators with your own hands Do-it-yourself vortex heat generator

A vortex heat generator is a new source of heat in the house. All the details about making vortex heat generators with your own hands Do-it-yourself vortex heat generator

It’s rare that an owner doesn’t try to save on heating or the consumption of other benefits, which become more and more expensive every year. To make the heating system of a residential or production premises, many people resort to help various schemes and methods of obtaining thermal energy. One of the devices suitable for these purposes is cavitation heat generator.

What is a vortex heat generator

A cavitation vortex heat generator is a simple device that can effectively heat a room while spending a minimum of money. This occurs due to the heating of water during cavitation - the formation of small steam bubbles in places where the liquid pressure decreases, which occurs either during pump operation or during sound vibrations.

A cavitation heater is capable of converting mechanical energy into thermal energy, which is actively used in industry, where heating elements can fail when working with a liquid that has a large temperature difference. Such a cavitator is an alternative for systems operating on solid fuel.

Advantages of vortex cavitation heaters:

  • Economical heating system;
  • High heating efficiency;
  • Availability;
  • Possibility to assemble with your own hands.


Disadvantages of the device:

  • At self-assembly It is quite difficult to find materials to create the device;
  • Too much power for a small room;
  • Noisy operation;
  • Considerable dimensions.

Standard design of a heat generator and its operating principle

The process of cavitation is expressed in the formation of vapor bubbles in a liquid, after which the pressure slowly decreases at high flow rates.

What can cause steam formation:

  • The occurrence of acoustics caused by sound;
  • Radiation of a laser pulse.

Closed air areas mixed with water and go to a place with high pressure, where they slam with shock wave radiation.

Operating principle of the cavitation apparatus:

  • The water jet moves through the cavitator, where the pump creates water pressure, falling into the working chamber;
  • In the chambers, the fluid increases speed and pressure using various tubes of different sizes;
  • In the center of the chamber, the flows mix and cavitation appears;
  • In this case, the steam cavities remain small and do not interact with the electrodes;
  • The liquid moves to the opposite end of the chamber, from where it returns back for the next use;
  • Heating occurs due to the movement and expansion of water at the exit of the nozzle.

This is how a vortex cavitation heater works. Its device is simple, but allows you to quickly and efficiently heat the room.

Cavitation heater and its types

A cavitation heater can be of several types. To understand which generator you need, you need to understand its types.


Types of cavitation heater:

  1. Rotary– the most popular of them is the Griggs apparatus, which operates using a rotary centrifugal pump. Outwardly, it looks like a disk with holes without an outlet. One such hole is called: the Griggs cell. The parameters of these cells and their number depend on the type of generator and drive speed. Water is heated between the stator and rotor through its rapid movement along the surface of the disk.
  2. Static– it does not have any rotating elements, and cavitation is created by special nozzles (Laval elements). The pump builds up water pressure, which causes it to move quickly and heat up. The nozzle outlets are narrower than the previous ones and the liquid begins to move even faster. Due to the rapid expansion of water, cavitation occurs, which ultimately produces heat.

If you choose between these two types, you should take into account that the performance of a rotary cavitator is higher and it is not as large as a static one.

True, a static heater wears out less due to the absence of rotating elements. The device can be used for up to 5 years, and if the nozzle fails, it can be easily replaced, spending much less money on it than on a heat generator in a rotary cavitator.

Economical DIY cavitation heat generator

It is quite possible to create a homemade vortex generator with cavitation if you carefully study the drawings and diagrams of the device, and also understand its operating principle. The easiest for self-creation Potapov's VTG with an efficiency of 93% is considered, the circuit of which is suitable for both home and industrial use.

Before you begin assembling the device, you should choose the right pump, based on its type, power, required thermal energy and pressure value.

Basically, all cavitation generators have a nozzle shape, which is considered the simplest and most convenient for such devices.

What is needed to create a cavitator:

  • Pressure gauges;
  • Thermometer for measuring temperature;
  • Output and inlet pipes with taps;
  • Valves for removing air pockets from the heating system;
  • Thermometer sleeves.

You also need to monitor the cross-sectional size of the hole between the diffuser and the confuser. It should be approximately 8 - 15 cm, neither narrower nor wider.

Scheme for creating a cavitation generator:

  1. Pump selection– here you need to decide on the necessary parameters. The pump must be able to work with high-temperature liquids, otherwise it will quickly break down. He must also be able to create operating pressure at least 4 atmospheres.
  2. Creation of a cavitation chamber– the main thing here is to choose the right cross-sectional size of the passage channel. The best option considered 8-15 mm.
  3. Selecting a Nozzle Configuration– it can be in the form of a cone, cylinder, or simply rounded. However, the shape is not as important as the fact that the vortex process begins as soon as the water enters the nozzle.
  4. Making a water circuit– outwardly it is a curved tube leading from the cavitation chamber. It is connected to two sleeves with a thermometer, two pressure gauges, and an air valve, which is placed between the inlet and outlet.


After creating the housing, the heat generator should be tested. To do this, the pump should be connected to electricity, and the radiators to heating system. Next comes connection to the network.

It is especially worth looking at the pressure gauge readings and setting the desired difference between the inlet and outlet of the liquid within 8-12 atmospheres.

DIY heat generator (video)

The cavitation heater is quite interesting and economical way heat the room. It is easily accessible and can be created independently if desired. To do this you need to purchase necessary materials and do everything according to the plans. And the effectiveness of the device will not take long to show itself.

The purpose of the Potapov vortex heat generator (VTG), made by yourself, is to obtain heat only with the help of an electric motor and a pump. This device is mainly used as an economical heater.

Scheme of the vortex thermal system.

Since there are no studies to determine the parameters of the product depending on the power of the pump, approximate dimensions will be covered.

The easiest way is to make a vortex heat generator from standard parts. Any electric motor will do this. The more powerful it is, the larger volume of water it will heat to a given temperature.

The main thing is the engine

You need to select a motor depending on what voltage is available. There are many schemes with which you can connect a 380 Volt motor to a 220 Volt network and vice versa. But that's another topic.

The assembly of the heat generator begins with an electric motor. It will need to be secured to the frame. The design of this device is metal carcass, which is easiest to make from a square. Dimensions will need to be selected on site for those devices that will be available.

Drawing of a vortex heat generator.

List of tools and materials:

  • corner Sander;
  • welding machine;
  • electric drill;
  • set of drills;
  • carob or spanners at 12 and 13;
  • bolts, nuts, washers;
  • metal corner;
  • primer, paint, paint brush.
  1. Cut the squares using an angle grinder. Using a welding machine, assemble a rectangular structure. Alternatively, you can assemble it using bolts and nuts. This will not affect the final design. Select the length and width so that all parts fit optimally.
  2. Cut another piece of square. Attach it as a cross member in such a way that you can secure the engine.
  3. Paint the frame.
  4. Drill holes in the frame for the bolts and install the engine.

Pump installation

Now you will need to select a water pump. Now in specialized stores you can purchase a unit of any modification and power. What should you pay attention to?

  1. The pump must be centrifugal.
  2. Your engine will be able to spin it.

Install a pump on the frame; if you need to make more cross members, make them either from a corner or from strip iron of the same thickness as the corner. It is hardly possible to make a coupling without lathe. Therefore, you will have to order it somewhere.

Diagram of a hydraulic vortex heat generator.

Potapov's vortex heat generator consists of a housing made in the form of a closed cylinder. At its ends there must be through holes and pipes for connection to the heating system. The secret of the design is inside the cylinder. There should be a nozzle behind the inlet hole. Its hole is selected individually for a given device, but it is desirable that it be half the size of a quarter of the diameter of the pipe body. If you do less, the pump will not be able to pass water through this hole and will begin to heat up. In addition, internal parts will begin to rapidly deteriorate due to the phenomenon of cavitation.

Tools: angle grinder or hacksaw, welding machine, electric drill, adjustable wrench.

Materials: thick metal pipe, electrodes, drills, 2 threaded pipes, couplings.

  1. Cut a piece of thick pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 500-600 mm. Make an external groove on it approximately 20-25 mm and half the thickness of the pipe. Cut the thread.
  2. Make two rings 50 mm long from the same pipe diameter. Slice internal thread on one side of each half ring.
  3. Make covers from the same thickness of flat metal as the pipe and weld them on the unthreaded side of the rings.
  4. Make a central hole in the covers: one with the diameter of the nozzle, and the other with the diameter of the pipe. WITH inside of the cover where the jet is located, use a drill of a larger diameter to make a chamfer. The result should be a nozzle.
  5. Connect the heat generator to the system. Connect the pipe where the nozzle is located to the pump into the hole from which water is supplied under pressure. Connect the heating system input to the second pipe. Connect the outlet from the system to the pump inlet.

Water under the pressure created by the pump will pass through the nozzle of the vortex heat generator, which you make yourself. In the chamber it will begin to heat up due to intense stirring. Then feed it into the heating system. To regulate the temperature, install a ball locking device behind the nozzle. Cover it, and the vortex heat generator will circulate water inside the housing longer, which means the temperature in it will begin to rise. This is roughly how this heater works.

Ways to Improve Productivity

Heat pump diagram.

Heat loss occurs in the pump. So Potapov’s vortex heat generator in this version has a significant drawback. Therefore, it is logical to surround the submerged pump with a water jacket so that its heat is also used for useful heating.

Make the outer casing of the entire device slightly larger than the diameter of the existing pump. It could be either finished pipe that is desirable, either made from sheet material parallelepiped. Its dimensions must be such that the pump, coupling and the generator itself fit inside. The thickness of the walls must withstand the pressure in the system.

To reduce heat loss, install thermal insulation around the device body. It can be protected with a casing made of tin. As an insulator, use any thermal insulation material that can withstand the boiling point of the liquid.

  1. Build a compact device consisting of submersible pump, connecting pipe and heat generator, which you assembled with your own hands.
  2. Decide on its dimensions and select a pipe of a diameter that will easily accommodate all these mechanisms.
  3. Make covers on one side and the other.
  4. Ensure the rigidity of the internal mechanisms and the ability of the pump to pump water through itself from the resulting reservoir.
  5. Make an inlet hole and attach the pipe to it. The pump should be located inside with its water intake as close as possible to this hole.

Weld a flange on the opposite end of the pipe. With its help the cover will be attached through a rubber gasket. To make it easier to mount the insides, make a simple, lightweight frame or skeleton. Assemble the device inside it. Check the fit and tightness of all components. Insert into the housing and close the lid.

Connect to consumers and check everything for leaks. If there are no leaks, turn on the pump. By opening and closing the valve located at the outlet of the generator, adjust the temperature.

Generator insulation

Connection diagram of the heat generator to the heating system.

First you need to make the insulation casing. For this, take a sheet of galvanized sheet or thin aluminum. Cut two rectangles out of it if you are making a casing from two halves. Or one rectangle, but in such a way that after manufacturing it will completely fit the Potapov vortex heat generator, which you assembled with your own hands.

It is best to bend the sheet on a pipe large diameter or use a cross member. Place the cut sheet on it and press it on top with your hand wooden block. With your second hand, press the sheet of tin so that a small bend is formed along its entire length. Advance the workpiece a little and repeat the operation again. Do this until you get a cylinder.

  1. Connect it using a lock, which is what tinsmiths use for drainpipes.
  2. Make covers for the casing, providing holes in them for connecting the generator.
  3. Wrap thermal insulation material device. Using wire or thin strips of tin, secure the insulation.
  4. Place the device in the casing and close the lids.

There is another way to increase heat production: to do this, you need to understand how the Potapov vortex generator works, the efficiency of which can approach 100% and higher (there is no consensus on why this happens).

As water passes through the nozzle or nozzle, a powerful stream is created at the outlet, which hits the opposite end of the device. It twists, and heating occurs due to the friction of the molecules. This means that by placing an additional barrier inside this flow, you can increase the mixing of the liquid in the device.

Once you know how it works, you can begin to design additional improvements. This will be a vortex damper made of longitudinal plates located inside two rings in the form of an aircraft bomb stabilizer.

Scheme of a stationary heat generator.

Tools: welding machine, angle grinder.

Materials: sheet metal or strip iron, thick-walled pipe.

Make two rings 4-5 cm wide from a pipe of smaller diameter than Potapov’s vortex heat generator. Cut identical strips from strip metal. Their length should be equal to a quarter of the length of the body of the heat generator itself. Select the width so that after assembly there is a free hole inside.

  1. Secure the plate in a vice. Hang rings on it on one side and the other. Weld a plate to them.
  2. Remove the workpiece from the clamp and turn it 180 degrees. Place the plate inside the rings and secure it in the clamp so that the plates are opposite each other. Fix 6 plates in this way at equal distances.
  3. Assemble the vortex heat generator by inserting the described device opposite the nozzle.

Probably, this product can be further improved. For example, instead of parallel plates, use steel wire, winding it into an air ball. Or make holes of different diameters on the plates. Nothing is said about this improvement anywhere, but this does not mean that it is not worth doing.

Diagram of a heat gun.

  1. Be sure to protect the Potapov vortex heat generator by painting all surfaces.
  2. During operation, its internal parts will be in a very aggressive environment caused by cavitation processes. Therefore, try to make both the body and everything that is in it from thick material. Don't skimp on hardware.
  3. Make several versions of lids with different inlet holes. Then it will be easier to select their diameter in order to obtain high performance.
  4. The same applies to the vibration damper. It can also be modified.

Build a small laboratory stand where you will test all the characteristics. To do this, do not connect consumers, but loop the pipeline to the generator. This will simplify its testing and selection of the necessary parameters. Since complex instruments for determining the efficiency factor at home can hardly be found, the following test is proposed.

Turn on the vortex heat generator and note the time when it heats the water to a certain temperature. It is better to have an electronic thermometer, it is more accurate. Then make changes to the design and run the experiment again, monitoring the temperature increase. How stronger water will heat up at the same time, the more preference will have to be given to the final version of the installed improvement in the design.

Ready thermal generator.

Depending on the type of device, the method of its manufacture also changes. It is worth familiarizing yourself with each type of device, studying the production features before getting to work. A simple way to make a Ranke vortex tube with your own hands is to use ready-made elements. To do this you will need any engine. At the same time, a device of greater power is able to heat more coolant, which will increase the productivity of the system.

For a successful construction one must find ready-made solutions. You can create a vortex heat generator with your own hands, the drawings and diagrams of which will be available, without much difficulty. To carry out construction work you will need the following tools:

  • Bulgarian;
  • iron corners;
  • welding;
  • drill and a set of several drills;
  • accessories and a set of keys;
  • primer, dye and brushes.

A vortex engine is one of the sources of alternative energy for heating a house.

It is worth understanding that rotary devices produce quite a lot of noise during operation. But in comparison with other devices, they are characterized by greater productivity. Drawings and diagrams for making a vortex heat generator with your own hands can be found everywhere. It is worth understanding that the work will be completed successfully only if the production technology is fully complied with.

Installation of the vortex heat generator pump and construction of the housing

The casing of this device is made in the form of a cylinder, which must be closed on the sides of each base. There are through holes on each side. Using them, you can connect a vortex heat generator with your own hands to the heating system of your home. The main feature of such a product is that a nozzle is installed inside the casing, near the inlet. This device must be selected individually for each individual case.

Vortex engine diagram.

The production process includes the following points:

  • pipe cutting required size(about 50-60 cm);
  • thread cutting;
  • making a pair of rings from a pipe of the same diameter with a length of approximately 50 mm;
  • welding covers to places where threads were not cut;
  • cutting two holes in the center of each cover (one for connecting the pipe, the second for the nozzle);
  • drilling a chamfer next to the nozzle to obtain an injector.

Installation of a vortex motor pump is carried out after selecting the unit required power. When purchasing, you should adhere to two rules. First, the device must be centrifugal. Secondly, the choice will be appropriate only if the device will function optimally in tandem with the installed electric motor.

Insulation of a vortex engine

Before putting the device into operation, it should be insulated. This is done after constructing the casing. It is recommended to wrap the structure with thermal insulation. As a rule, high-temperature resistant material is used for these purposes. The insulation layer is attached to the device casing with wire. One of the following materials should be used as thermal insulation:

Ready thermal generator.

  • glass wool;
  • mineral wool;
  • basalt wool.

As you can see from the list, almost any fiber insulation will do. Vortex induction heater, reviews of which can be found all over the RuNet, must be insulated with high quality. Otherwise, there is a risk that the device will give off more heat to the room where it is installed. Good to know: " .

Finally, some advice should be given. First, it is recommended to paint the surface of the product. This will protect it from corrosion. Second - everything internal elements It is advisable to make the device thicker. This approach will increase their wear resistance and resistance to aggressive environments. Third, it’s worth making several spare caps. They must also have holes on the plane of the required diameter in the required places. This is necessary in order to achieve more through selection high efficiency unit.

Summarizing

If all the rules for manufacturing the structure have been taken into account, the vortex generator will last a long time. Do not forget that a lot in the heating system also depends on the proper installation of the device. In any case, making such a design from improvised means will be cheaper than purchasing a ready-made device. However, for optimal functioning of the device, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the processes of manufacturing the housing and covering the thermal insulation.

This article describes how to make a heat generator on your own.

The operating principle of a static heat generator and the results of its research are described in detail. Recommendations for its calculation and selection of components are given.

The idea of ​​creation

What to do if you don’t have enough money to purchase a heat generator? How to make it yourself? I'll tell you about own experience in this case.

We got the idea to make our own heat generator after getting acquainted with various types of heat generators. Their designs seemed quite simple, but not fully thought out.

There are two known designs of such devices: rotary and static. In the first case, a rotor is used to create cavitation, as you might guess from the name; in the second, the main element of the device is a nozzle. To make a choice in favor of one of the design options, let’s compare both designs.

Rotary heat generator

What is a rotary heat generator? In essence, it is a slightly modified centrifugal pump , That is, there is a pump housing (which in in this case is a stator) with inlet and outlet pipes, and a working chamber, inside of which there is a rotor that acts as an impeller. The main difference from a conventional pump is the rotor. There is a great variety designs rotors of vortex heat generators, and of course we won’t describe everything. The simplest of them is a disk, on the cylindrical surface of which many blind holes of a certain depth and diameter are drilled. These holes are called Griggs cells, named after the American inventor who was the first to test a rotary heat generator of this design. The number and dimensions of these cells are determined based on the size of the rotor disk and the rotational speed of the electric motor driving it into rotation. The stator (aka heat generator housing), as a rule, is made in the form of a hollow cylinder, i.e. a pipe plugged on both sides with flanges. In this case, the gap between the inner wall of the stator and the rotor is very small and amounts to 1...1.5 mm.

It is in the gap between the rotor and stator that the water is heated. This is facilitated by its friction on the surface of the stator and rotor, during the rapid rotation of the latter. And of course, cavitation processes and turbulence of water in the rotor cells play a significant role in heating water. The rotor rotation speed is usually 3000 rpm with a diameter of 300 mm. As the rotor diameter decreases, it is necessary to increase the rotation speed.

It is not difficult to guess that, despite its simplicity, such a design requires quite high precision manufacturing. And it is obvious that rotor balancing will be required. In addition, we have to solve the issue of sealing the rotor shaft. Naturally, sealing elements require regular replacement.

From the above it follows that the resource of such installations is not so great. In addition to everything else, the operation of rotary heat generators is accompanied by increased noise. Although they have 20-30% greater productivity in comparison with static heat generators. Rotary heat generators are even capable of producing steam. But is this an advantage for a short service life (compared to static models)?

Static heat generator

The second type of heat generator is called static. This is due to the absence of rotating parts in the cavitator design. To create cavitation processes they are used different kinds sniffled. The most commonly used is the so-called Laval nozzle

For cavitation to occur, it is necessary to ensure a high speed of fluid movement in the cavitator. For this, a conventional centrifugal pump is used. The pump builds up liquid pressure in front of the nozzle; it rushes into the nozzle opening, which has a significantly smaller cross-section than the supply pipeline, which ensures high speed at the nozzle exit. Due to the sharp expansion of the liquid at the exit of the nozzle, cavitation occurs. This is also facilitated by the friction of the liquid on the surface of the nozzle channel and the turbulence of the water that occurs when the jet suddenly pulls out of the nozzle. That is, water is heated for the same reasons as in a rotary heat generator, but with slightly less efficiency.

The design of a static heat generator does not require high precision manufacturing of parts. Mechanical restoration in the manufacture of these parts is reduced to a minimum in comparison with the rotor design. Due to the absence of rotating parts, the issue of sealing mating units and parts is easily resolved. Balancing is also not needed. The service life of the cavitator is significantly longer. (5-year warranty) Even if the nozzle reaches the end of its service life, manufacturing and replacing it will require significantly lower material costs (the rotary heat generator in such a case will essentially have to be manufactured anew).

Perhaps the most important disadvantage of a static heat generator is the cost of the pump. However, the cost of manufacturing a heat generator of this design is practically no different from the rotary version, and if we remember the service life of both installations, this disadvantage will turn into an advantage, because if the cavitator is replaced, the pump does not need to be changed.

Thus, we will opt for a heat generator of a static design, especially since we already have a pump and will not have to spend money on its purchase.

Manufacturing of heat generator

Pump selection

Let's start with choosing a pump for the heat generator. To do this, let's determine its operating parameters. Whether this pump is a circulation pump or a pressure-increasing pump is of no fundamental importance. In the photo of Figure 6, a circulation pump with a Grundfos dry rotor is used. What matters are the operating pressure, pump performance, and the maximum permissible temperature of the pumped liquid.

Not all pumps can be used for pumping liquids high temperature. And, if you do not pay attention to this parameter when choosing a pump, its service life will be significantly less than that declared by the manufacturer.

The efficiency of the heat generator will depend on the amount of pressure developed by the pump. Those. the greater the pressure, the greater the pressure drop provided by the nozzle. As a result, the more efficient is the heating of the liquid pumped through the cavitator. However, you should not chase the maximum numbers in technical specifications pumps Already at a pressure in the pipeline in front of the nozzle equal to 4 atm, an increase in water temperature will be noticeable, although not as fast as at a pressure of 12 atm.

The performance of the pump (the volume of liquid it pumps) has virtually no effect on the efficiency of water heating. This is due to the fact that in order to ensure a pressure drop in the nozzle, we make its cross-section significantly smaller than the nominal diameter of the circuit pipeline and pump nozzles. The flow rate of liquid pumped through the cavitator will not exceed 3...5 m3/h, because All pumps can provide the highest pressure only at the lowest flow rate.

The power of the heat generator working pump will determine the conversion coefficient electrical energy to thermal. Read more about the energy conversion factor and its calculation below.

When choosing a pump for our heat generator, we relied on our experience with Warmbotruff installations (this heat generator is described in the article about the eco-house). We knew that the heat generator we installed used WILO pump IL 40/170-5.5/2 (see Fig. 6). This is an Inline dry rotor circulation pump with a power of 5.5 kW, a maximum operating pressure of 16 atm, providing a maximum head of 41 m (i.e., it provides a pressure drop of 4 atm). Similar pumps are produced by other manufacturers. For example, Grundfos produces an analogue of such a pump - this is model TP 40-470/2.


Figure 6 - Working pump of the heat generator “Warmbotruff 5.5A”

And yet, having compared the performance characteristics of this pump with other models produced by the same manufacturer, we chose the high-pressure centrifugal multistage pump MVI 1608-06/PN 16. This pump provides more than twice the pressure, with the same engine power, although it costs almost 300 € more.

Now there is a great opportunity to save money by using the Chinese equivalent. After all, Chinese pump manufacturers are constantly improving the quality of counterfeits worldwide. famous brands and expand the range. The cost of Chinese “grundfos” is often several times less, while the quality is not always as much worse, and sometimes is not much inferior.

Development and production of cavitator

What is a cavitator? There are a huge number of designs of static cavitators (you can verify this on the Internet), but in almost all cases they are made in the form of a nozzle. As a rule, the Laval nozzle is taken as a basis and modified by the designer. The classic Laval nozzle is shown in Fig. 7.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the cross-section of the channel between the diffuser and the confuser.

Do not narrow its cross-section too much, trying to ensure maximum pressure drop. Of course, when water leaves a small cross-section hole and enters the expansion chamber, the greatest degree of rarefaction will be achieved, and, consequently, more active cavitation. Those. The water will heat up to a higher temperature in one pass through the nozzle. However, the volume of water pumped through the nozzle will be too small, and, mixing with cold water, it will not transfer enough heat to it. Thus, the total volume of water will heat up slowly. In addition, the small cross-section of the channel will contribute to the airing of water entering the inlet pipe of the working pump. As a result, the pump will operate more noisily and cavitation may occur in the pump itself, and these are already undesirable phenomena. Why this happens will become clear when we consider the design of the hydrodynamic circuit of the heat generator.

The best performance is achieved with a channel opening diameter of 8-15 mm. In addition, the heating efficiency will also depend on the configuration of the nozzle expansion chamber. So we move on to the second important point in the design of the nozzle - expansion chamber.

Which profile should you choose? Moreover, this is not all possible options nozzle profiles. Therefore, in order to determine the design of the nozzle, we decided to resort to mathematical modeling of the fluid flow in them. I will present some results of modeling the nozzles shown in Fig. 8.

The figures show that these nozzle designs allow cavitation heating of liquids pumped through them. They show that when liquid flows, zones of high and low pressure, which cause the formation of cavities and its subsequent collapse.

As can be seen from Figure 8, the nozzle profile can be very different. Option a) is essentially a classic Laval nozzle profile. Using such a profile, you can vary the opening angle of the expansion chamber, thereby changing the characteristics of the cavitator. Typically the value is in the range of 12...30°. As can be seen from the velocity diagram in Fig. 9 such a nozzle provides the highest speed of fluid movement. However, a nozzle with such a profile provides the lowest pressure drop (see Fig. 10). The greatest turbulence will be observed already at the nozzle exit (see Fig. 11).

Obviously, option b) will more effectively create a vacuum when liquid flows out of the channel connecting the expansion chamber to the compression chamber (see Fig. 9). The speed of liquid flow through this nozzle will be the smallest, as evidenced by the speed diagram shown in Fig. 10. Turbulence resulting from the passage of liquid through the nozzle of the second option, in my opinion, is the most optimal for heating water. The appearance of a vortex in the flow begins already at the entrance to the intermediate channel, and at the exit from the nozzle the second wave of vortex formation begins (see Fig. 11). However, such a nozzle is a little more difficult to manufacture, because you will have to grind out a hemisphere.

Profile nozzle c) is a simplified previous version. It was to be expected that the last two options would have similar characteristics. But the pressure change diagram shown in Fig. 9 indicates that the difference will be the largest of the three options. The speed of the fluid flow will be higher than in the second version of the nozzle and lower than in the first (see Fig. 10). The turbulence that occurs when water moves through this nozzle is comparable to the second option, but the formation of a vortex occurs differently (see Fig. 11).

I have given as an example only the most easy-to-manufacture nozzle profiles. All three options can be used when designing a heat generator and it cannot be said that one of the options is correct and the others are not. You can experiment with different nozzle profiles yourself. To do this, it is not necessary to immediately make them from metal and conduct a real experiment. This is not always justified. First, you can analyze the nozzle you have invented in any of the programs that simulate fluid movement. I used the COSMOSFloWorks app to analyze the nozzles pictured above. A simplified version of this application is included in the SolidWorks computer-aided design system.

In the experiment to create our own heat generator model, we used a combination of simple nozzles (see Fig. 12).

There are much more sophisticated design solutions, but I don’t see the point in presenting them all. If you are really interested in this topic, you can always find other cavitator designs on the Internet.

Manufacturing of a hydrodynamic circuit

After we have decided on the design of the nozzle, we move on to the next stage: the manufacture of the hydrodynamic circuit. To do this, you must first sketch out a circuit diagram. We made it very simple by drawing a diagram on the floor with chalk (see Fig. 13)

  1. Pressure gauge at the nozzle outlet (measures the pressure at the nozzle outlet).
  2. Thermometer (measures the temperature at the entrance to the system).
  3. Air vent valve(Removes air lock from the system).
  4. Outlet pipe with tap.
  5. Thermometer sleeve.
  6. Entrance duct with tap.
  7. Sleeve for thermometer at the inlet.
  8. Pressure gauge at the nozzle inlet (measures the pressure at the inlet to the system).

Now I will describe the circuit design. It is a pipeline, the inlet of which is connected to the outlet pipe of the pump, and the outlet to the inlet. A nozzle 9 is welded into this pipeline, pipes for connecting pressure gauges 8 (before and after the nozzle), sleeves for installing a thermometer 7.5 (we did not weld threads for the sleeves, but simply welded them), a fitting for the air vent valve 3 (we We used an ordinary Sharkran, fittings for the control valve and fittings for connecting the heating circuit.

In the diagram I drew, the water moves counterclockwise. Water is supplied to the circuit through the lower pipe (sharkran with a red flywheel and check valve), and water is dispensed from it, respectively, through the upper one (sharkran with a red flywheel). The pressure difference is regulated by a valve located between the inlet and outlet pipes. In the photo fig. 13 it is only shown in the diagram and does not lie next to its designation, because we have already screwed it onto the leads, having previously wound the seal (see Fig. 14).

To make the circuit, we took a DN 50 pipe, because... The pump connecting pipes have the same diameter. At the same time, we made the inlet and outlet pipes of the circuit, to which the heating circuit is connected, from a DN 20 pipe. You can see what we got in the end in Fig. 15.

The photo shows a pump with a 1 kW motor. Subsequently, we replaced it with the 5.5 kW pump described above.

The view, of course, was not the most aesthetically pleasing, but we did not set ourselves such a task. Perhaps one of the readers will ask why the contour size is so large, because it can be made smaller? We intend to somewhat disperse the water due to the length of the pipe in front of the nozzle. If you search the Internet, you will probably find images and diagrams of the first models of heat generators. Almost all of them worked without nozzles. The effect of heating the liquid was achieved by accelerating it to fairly high speeds. For this purpose, small height cylinders with tangential entry And coaxial output.

We did not use this method to accelerate water, but decided to make our design as simple as possible. Although we have thoughts on how to accelerate the fluid with this circuit design, more on that later.

In the photo, the pressure gauge in front of the nozzle and the adapter with a sleeve for the thermometer, which is mounted in front of the water meter, have not yet been screwed in (at that time it was not yet ready). All that remains is to install the missing elements and proceed to the next stage.

Starting the heat generator

I think there is no point in talking about how to connect the pump motor and heating radiator. Although we did not approach the issue of connecting the electric motor in a completely standard way. Since at home a single-phase network is usually used, and industrial pumps are produced with a three-phase motor, we decided to use a frequency converter, designed for a single-phase network. This also made it possible to increase the pump rotation speed above 3000 rpm. and then find the resonant rotation frequency of the pump.

To parameterize the frequency converter, we need a laptop with a COM port for parameterizing and controlling the frequency converter. The converter itself is installed in a control cabinet, where heating is provided in winter conditions operation and ventilation for summer operating conditions. To ventilate the cabinet we used a standard fan, and to heat the cabinet we use a 20 W heater.

The frequency converter allows you to adjust the pump frequency over a wide range, both below the main one and above the main one. The engine frequency can be increased no higher than 150%.

In our case, you can increase the engine speed to 4500 rpm.

You can briefly raise the frequency higher to 200%, but this leads to mechanical overload of the motor and increases the likelihood of its failure. In addition, the frequency converter protects the motor from overload and short circuit. Also, the frequency converter allows you to start the engine with a given acceleration time, which limits the acceleration of the pump blades during startup and limits the starting currents of the engine. The frequency converter is installed in wall cabinet(see Fig. 16).

All controls and display elements are displayed on front panel control cabinet. The system operating parameters are displayed on the front panel (on the MTM-RE-160 device).

The device has the ability to record readings from 6 different channels of analog signals throughout the day. In this case, we record the temperature readings at the system inlet, the temperature readings at the system outlet, and the pressure parameters at the system inlet and outlet.

The setting for the speed of the main pump is carried out using MTM-103 devices. Green and yellow buttons are used to start and stop the engines of the working pump of the heat generator and the circulation pump. Circulation pump we plan to use it to reduce electricity consumption. After all, when the water heats up to the set temperature, circulation is still necessary.

When using a Micromaster 440 frequency converter, you can use a special Starter program to parameterize the converter by installing it on a laptop (see Fig. 18).

First, the initial engine data written on the nameplate (a plate with the factory parameters of the engine attached to the engine stator) is entered into the program. Such data includes

  • Rated Power R kW,
  • Rated current I nom.,
  • Cosine,
  • Engine's type,
  • Rated rotation speed N nom.

After this, auto-detection of the motor starts and the frequency converter itself determines the necessary motor parameters. After this, the pump is ready for operation.

Heat generator test

Once the installation is connected, you can begin testing. We start the electric motor of the pump and, observing the readings of the pressure gauges, set the required pressure drop. For this purpose, a valve is provided in the circuit, located between the inlet and outlet pipes. By turning the valve handle, we set the pressure in the pipeline after the nozzle in the range of 1.2…1.5 atm. In the section of the circuit between the nozzle inlet and the pump outlet, the optimal pressure will be in the range of 8…12 atm.

The pump was able to provide us with a pressure at the nozzle inlet of 9.3 atm. Having set the pressure at the outlet of the nozzle to 1.2 atm, we let the water flow in a circle (closed the outlet valve) and noted the time. As water moved along the circuit, we recorded a temperature increase of approximately 4°C per minute. Thus, after 10 minutes we have already heated the water from 21°C to 60°C. Contour volume s installed pump amounted to almost 15 liters. Electricity consumption was calculated by measuring the current. From this data we can calculate the energy conversion ratio.

KPI = (C*m*(Tk-Tn))/(3600000*(Qk-Qn));

  • C - specific heat capacity of water, 4200 J/(kg*K);
  • m is the mass of heated water, kg;
  • Tn - initial water temperature, 294° K;
  • Tk - final water temperature, 333° K;
  • Qn - initial electric meter readings, 0 kWh;
  • Qk - final electric meter readings, 0.5 kWh.

Let's substitute the data into the formula and get:

KPI = (4200*15*(333-294))/(3600000*(0.5-0)) = 1.365

This means that by consuming 5 kWh of electricity, our heat generator produces 1,365 times more heat, namely 6,825 kWh. Thus, we can safely assert the validity of this idea. This formula does not take into account the engine efficiency, which means that the actual transformation ratio will be even higher.

When calculating the thermal power required to heat our house, we proceed from the generally accepted simplified formula. According to this formula, when standard height ceiling (up to 3 m), for our region we need 1 kW of thermal power for every 10 m2. Thus, for our house with an area of ​​10x10 = 100 m2 we will need 10 kW of thermal power. Those. one heat generator with a power of 5.5 kW is not enough to heat this house, but this is only at first glance. If you haven’t forgotten yet, to heat the room we are going to use a “warm floor” system, which saves up to 30% of energy consumed. It follows from this that the 6.8 kW of thermal energy generated by the heat generator should be just enough to heat the house. In addition, the subsequent connection of a heat pump and solar collector will allow us to further reduce energy costs.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to propose one controversial idea for discussion.

I have already mentioned that in the first heat generators water was accelerated by giving it rotational movement in special cylinders. You know that we did not go this way. And yet, to increase efficiency, it is necessary that in addition to translational motion, water also acquires rotational motion. At the same time, the speed of water movement increases noticeably. A similar technique is used in competitions to quickly drink a bottle of beer. Before drinking it, the beer in the bottle is thoroughly swirled. And the liquid pours out through a narrow neck much faster. And we came up with an idea on how we could try to do this without changing the existing structure hydrodynamic circuit.

To give the water rotational motion we will use stator asynchronous motor With squirrel-cage rotor water passed through the stator must first be magnetized. For this you can use a solenoid or permanent ring magnet. I’ll tell you what came out of this idea later, because now, unfortunately, there is no opportunity to do experiments.

We also have ideas on how to improve our nozzle, but we will talk about this too after experiments and patenting if they are successful.

Every year, the rise in heating prices forces us to look for cheaper ways to heat living space during the cold season. This especially applies to those houses and apartments that have a large square footage. One such saving method is vortex. It has many advantages and also allows you to save on creation. The simplicity of the design will not make it difficult to assemble even for beginners. Next, we will consider the advantages of this heating method, and also try to draw up a plan for assembling a heat generator with our own hands.

The heat generator is special device, the main purpose of which is to generate heat by burning fuel loaded into it. In this case, heat is generated, which is spent on heating the coolant, which in turn directly performs the function of heating the living space.

The first heat generators appeared on the market back in 1856, thanks to the invention of the British physicist Robert Bunsen, who, during a series of experiments, noticed that the heat generated during combustion could be directed in any direction.

Since then, generators have, of course, been modified and are capable of heating a much larger area than they were 250 years ago.

The main criterion by which generators differ from each other is the fuel they load. Depending on this, they distinguish the following types :

  1. Diesel heat generators – produce heat through combustion diesel fuel. Capable of heating well large areas, but it is better not to use them for the home due to the presence of toxic substances produced as a result of fuel combustion.
  2. Gas heat generators operate on the principle of continuous gas supply, burning in a special chamber which also produces heat. It is considered a completely economical option, but installation requires special permission and increased safety.
  3. Solid fuel generators are designed to resemble a conventional coal furnace, which has a combustion chamber, a compartment for soot and ash, and a heating element. Convenient for use in open areas, since their operation does not depend on weather conditions.
  4. – their operating principle is based on the process of thermal conversion, in which bubbles formed in the liquid provoke a mixed flow of phases, increasing the amount of heat generated.