Oddly enough, but often when planting seedlings, even experienced gardeners make a lot of mistakes. Therefore, let's try to honestly answer ourselves - what is necessary for successful cultivation fruit crops? There are many answers to this question. But today we will try to understand the main mistakes that we make when planting fruit tree seedlings.
The main mistake of gardeners (including those with experience) is their desire to buy seedlings as large as possible. But a large seedling is not necessarily the best, but most often the worst. The thing is that in nurseries, plants are dug up with a plow, which leaves no more than half of the suction roots of a large seedling, and sometimes much less. In order for such a seedling to take root in a new place, you need to remove almost its entire crown, and such a plant will be sick for a very long time.
And in nondescript seedlings - one-year-olds and two-year-olds - the crown is not developed or does not exist at all - one twig, but their roots are much less damaged when digging up. Such a seedling takes root much faster and subsequently noticeably outstrips three-year-old seedlings in growth.
Under no circumstances should you buy seedlings from cars parked along the roads and entering gardens, as well as at spontaneous markets. Here they can sell you anything. You need to buy seedlings only from a nursery and, most importantly, zoned ones.
It is these seedlings that were bred and zoned for our often capricious and harsh weather. Therefore, think carefully before buying on the market a little cheaper, but “a pig in a poke.”
Another serious mistake is purchasing and planting seedlings with an open root system too early. Optimal time planting seedlings of most garden crops - from September 15 to October 5-10, and for cherries and plums - until September 25.
But many gardeners, with their premature rush demand, provoke an early start in digging up seedlings in nurseries and selling them. Already at the end of August, on the streets of the city you can meet people with seedlings that look more like the tops of overgrown tomatoes with green withered leaves and drooping tops. This seedling could not be dug up for at least another 2-3 weeks, but in our “wild” market, demand always determines supply.
Such a seedling should be planted in autumn permanent place useless. You can save him only in a trench under a snow shelter or in a cold basement with constant temperature from 0 to -3...4°C. But why create such unbearable difficulties for yourself and then try to overcome them?
A very serious mistake is planting young seedlings on freshly poured, “unsettled” soil in a hole. That is why planting young trees can begin only 25-30 days after preparing the hole (at least 10-12 days), i.e. only after the soil in the filled pit has settled and settled.
Why is this so important? Yes, because in order not to make a mistake and correctly place the seedling in the hole, and for this you need to be able to correctly determine its root collar. The root collar (the border between the roots and the crown) should be at soil level or 2-3 cm above it.
But seedlings from the nursery usually also have a graft. It is done on wild land 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse the root collar and the grafting site, and therefore plant seedlings very deeply, burying them in the soil up to the grafting site.
The root collar of a young seedling is not difficult to detect. To do this, you need to wipe the main shoot and root with a wet cloth. The root collar of the seedling will be located just on the border of the transition of the color of the bark from greenish to light brown.
The root collar should not be allowed to deepen significantly into the soil during planting, otherwise tree growth will be slowed down and inhibited, especially on heavy clay soils. But shallow planting of seedlings, in which the roots dry out and the plants take root worse, is also unacceptable. Shallow planting in spring is extremely harmful in dry years.
To prevent these gross mistakes, when planting seedlings across landing pit it is necessary to place a board with a cut in the center and use it (not by eye) to determine the level of the root collar. When planting, the seedling should be kept near the stake so that the root collar is 4-5 cm above the edges of the hole.
One of the serious mistakes is introducing very large quantity mineral fertilizers. From their excess, the very bacteria that should process nutrients into a form accessible to plants, they die, because these same excess fertilizers have created such an aggressive environment in the planting hole in which such bacteria cannot live.
In the same way, fresh or slightly decomposed manure should not be introduced into the planting hole. The point is that any organic fertilizers with a low degree of decomposition, falling into the lower part of the planting hole, especially on heavy clay soil, with a lack of oxygen there, they decompose poorly, intensely releasing ammonia and hydrogen sulfide, which greatly inhibit the root system of plants and have a bad effect on the survival rate of seedlings.
Before planting, the root system of seedlings is carefully inspected and trimmed, removing torn or soaked roots to a healthy part. Seedlings with dried roots must be immersed in water for 1-2 days.
Then, for better contact with the soil, the roots of the plants must be dipped in a liquid mash of clay and mullein (3 parts clay to 1 part mullein), to which it is advisable to add growth substances - root, epin, novosil or others. Planted apple tree seedlings must be pruned in early spring, before the buds open.
Immediately after planting, the tree must be tied with a figure eight of twine to the stake so that its stem does not split under the influence of the wind and, swinging, does not tear off new tender roots, preventing the seedling from taking root properly. It is advisable to put a ring made of roofing felt or birch bark on the trunk, in the place where it is tied, to eliminate the risk of damage from possible friction of the twine on the tree bark.
Then over landing pit make a hole and water it with water at the rate of 2-3 buckets for each tree, regardless of soil moisture and weather. After water is absorbed into the soil, the hole within a radius of 0.5-0.7 m must be mulched with a thin layer of manure, humus or peat chips. This will prevent rapid evaporation of moisture and will promote good survival of seedlings.
A day after this operation, soil is added to the hole to seal the gullies formed after the first watering. In this case, a fairly significant subsidence of the earth will occur along with the planted tree, and its root collar will settle to normal level soil in the garden.
Unfortunately, there are many errors that affect the survival rate and further development of a young tree, also occurs after planting the seedlings.
It was already said above that immediately after planting young trees, it is necessary to water the soil, spending at least 3-4 buckets of water per hole, regardless of soil moisture, so that the soil sticks to the roots. Unfortunately, everyone understands this simple rule in their own way.
Often other gardeners try to water such plantings as often as possible, but little by little. Such watering, especially in dry and hot weather, on the contrary, only dries out the soil in the planting hole and leads to the formation of a soil crust. We seem to be trying to provide the planted plants with water, but in fact we are taking it away from them. But excessively abundant and frequent watering is also harmful to young plants. Irrigation with water (not only for young trees) taken directly from an artesian well is especially dangerous.
It is very, very harmful for young plants in the year of planting (especially the first 1.5-2 months) to water with water containing dissolved mineral fertilizers, primarily with urea and ammonium nitrate. As you can see, these most common and most beneficial fertilizers for plants during this period are generally contraindicated for young seedlings.
You can make a serious mistake when mulching the soil in the planting hole. Please note that it was indicated above that after planting the seedlings, the soil must be mulched with a thin layer of peat. The purpose of this mulching is to prevent moisture from evaporating from the soil. And already late autumn, after the soil freezes, this layer of mulch must be significantly increased in order to protect young plants from death in the event of very low temperatures.
If this mulching procedure is violated and immediately after planting it is placed in trunk circles young trees have a very thick layer of peat, then in the event of a likely long, warm and rainy autumn, the bark of the seedlings may be strongly supported, and they will be in danger of death.
Well, with the onset of stable frosts, it is necessary to wrap the seedlings with spruce branches, paper, etc., in order to protect young plants from low winter temperatures, sunburn of the bark in early spring, and at the same time from voracious rodents.
V. Shafransky
("Gardener")
In February-April, the active sale of seedlings begins. At fairs and nurseries, boxes with future trees, shrubs, and flowers are full of boxes. Your eyes widen, and you have a desire to buy a lot of things at once. You shouldn’t refuse; there are several ways to preserve seedlings before planting at home.
Before storing, purchased seedlings must be immediately labeled (hang a tag with the name of the variety), and the buds and roots must be inspected.
Specimens imported in February-March most likely still have dormant buds.
There may also be those that have already begun to grow, but are still small, no more than 2 cm. They are also suitable for “sealing”.
If the buds are already actively growing, then before planting in a permanent place, the seedling is planted in a pot as indoor plant.
Trim soaked and broken roots, long, dried out or diseased shoots with garden pruning shears. Shorten long roots. Treat the cut areas with brilliant green or sprinkle with crushed coal.
Shoots damaged by the fungus cannot be left for storage; the disease will spread throughout the entire seedling and by the time of planting there will be nothing left to plant.
If young trees were sent by mail, then root system could dry out. Before storing, wrap the roots in damp cotton fabric and hold it for a while.
For grafted specimens, especially rose seedlings, the grafting site is checked. Often there is no protective paraffin plug, and in order to protect the sensitive area, it is wrapped in polyethylene.
A cap made of newspaper or covering material placed on the seedling will protect against sunlight, thereby the rest period will be extended.
Soak cuttings or seedlings in potassium humate before planting. How to prepare the solution is indicated on the packaging. After planting, move the pot to a room where the temperature fluctuates between 5-7°C. When the buds wake up and begin to grow, move the pot to a cool, bright place.
It is important to monitor temperature and humidity levels before planting. Here a good helper there will be a hygrometer. The ambient temperature should be within 0…+2°C. It is during this time that the plants fall into a state of dormancy and will calmly survive the waiting period.
If the apartment is on the ground floor and there is a cellar, then it is better to transfer the seedlings to the cellar for storage until they are planted.
Do not open when at rest planting material, and don’t touch it again, it’s quite enough to very carefully check the condition of the kidneys once a month.
Among the countless varieties and hybrids of sweet peppers, there are those, such as the Ramiro pepper, whose popularity is literally worldwide. And if most vegetables on supermarket shelves are nameless, and it is almost impossible to find out about their variety, then the name of this pepper “Ramiro” will certainly be on the packaging. And, as my experience has shown, this pepper is worth letting other gardeners know about it. In connection with which this article was written.
Autumn is the most mushroom time. It is no longer hot, and heavy dew falls in the mornings. Since the earth is still warm, and foliage has already attacked from above, creating a completely special microclimate in the ground layer, the mushrooms are very comfortable. Mushroom pickers are also comfortable at this time, especially in the mornings when it is cooler. It's time for both to meet. And, if you haven’t introduced yourself to each other, get to know each other. In this article I will introduce you to exotic, little-known and not always edible mushrooms, similar to corals.
If you are a busy person, but at the same time not devoid of romance, if you have your own plot and are endowed with aesthetic taste, then explore the opportunity to purchase this wonderful ornamental shrub - karyopteris, or Nutwing. He is also “wing-hazel”, “blue fog” and “blue beard”. It truly fully combines unpretentiousness and beauty. Karyopteris reaches its peak of decorativeness in late summer and autumn. It is at this time that it blooms.
Pepper ajvar - vegetable caviar or thick vegetable sauce from bell pepper with eggplants. The peppers for this recipe are baked for quite a long time, and then they are also stewed. Add to ajvar onion, tomatoes, eggplants. To store eggs for the winter, they are sterilized. This Balkan recipe is not for those who like to make preparations quickly, undercooked and underbaked - not about ajvar. In general, we approach the matter in detail. For the sauce, we choose the ripest and meatiest vegetables on the market.
Despite the simple names (“sticky” or “indoor maple”) and the status of a modern substitute indoor hibiscus, abutilons are far from the simplest plants. They grow well, bloom profusely and delight healthy looking greenery only in optimal conditions. On thin leaves, any deviations from comfortable lighting or temperatures and disturbances in care quickly appear. To reveal the beauty of abutilons in rooms, it is worth finding the ideal place for them.
Zucchini fritters with Parmesan and mushrooms - a delicious recipe with photos of available products. Ordinary zucchini pancakes can be easily turned into a non-boring dish by adding a few savory ingredients to the dough. Treat your family this squash season vegetable pancakes With forest mushrooms, it is not only very tasty, but also satisfying. Zucchini is a universal vegetable, it is suitable for stuffing, for preparations, for main courses, and even for sweets. delicious recipes- compotes and jam are made from zucchini.
The idea of growing vegetables on the grass, under the grass and in the grass is scary at first, until you become imbued with the naturalness of the process: in nature, this is exactly how everything happens. With the obligatory participation of all soil living creatures: from bacteria and fungi to moles and toads. Each of them contributes. Traditional tillage with digging, loosening, fertilizing, and fighting all those we consider pests destroys the biocenoses that have been created over centuries. In addition, it requires a lot of labor and resources.
What to do instead of a lawn? So that all this beauty does not turn yellow, does not get sick and at the same time looks like a lawn... I hope that the smart and quick-witted reader is already smiling. After all, the answer suggests itself - if you do nothing, nothing will happen. Of course, there are several solutions that can be used, and with their help, you can reduce the area of the lawn, and therefore reduce the labor intensity of caring for it. I suggest you consider alternative options and discuss their pros and cons.
Tomato sauce with onions and sweet peppers - thick, aromatic, with pieces of vegetables. The sauce cooks quickly and is thick because this recipe contains pectin. Make such preparations at the end of summer or autumn, when the vegetables have ripened in the sun in the garden beds. Bright, red tomatoes will make equally bright homemade ketchup. This sauce is a ready-made dressing for spaghetti, and you can also simply spread it on bread - very tasty. For better preservation, you can add a little vinegar.
This year I often observed a picture: among the luxurious green crown of trees and shrubs, here and there, like candles, the bleached tops of shoots “burn.” This is chlorosis. Most of us know about chlorosis from school biology lessons. I remember that this is a lack of iron... But chlorosis is an ambiguous concept. And lightening of foliage does not always mean a lack of iron. What is chlorosis, what our plants lack during chlorosis and how to help them, we will tell you in the article.
Korean vegetables for the winter - delicious korean salad with tomatoes and cucumbers. The salad is sweet and sour, spicy and slightly spicy, because it is prepared with seasoning for... Korean carrots. Be sure to prepare several jars for the winter, cold winter This healthy and flavorful snack will come in handy. You can use overripe cucumbers for the recipe; it is better to prepare vegetables in late summer or early autumn, when they are ripe in open ground under the sun.
Autumn for me means dahlias. Mine begin to bloom as early as June, and all summer the neighbors peek at me over the fence, reminding them that I promised them a few tubers or seeds by the fall. In September, a tart note appears in the aroma of these flowers, hinting at the approaching cold. This means it’s time to start preparing the plants for the long, cold winter. In this article I will share my secrets autumn care for perennial dahlias and preparing them for winter storage.
To date, through the efforts of breeders, according to various sources, from seven to ten thousand (!) varieties of cultivated apple trees have been bred. But despite their enormous diversity, in private gardens, as a rule, only a couple of popular and beloved varieties grow. Apple trees - large trees with a spreading crown, and you can’t grow many of them in one area. What if you try to grow columnar varieties of this crop? In this article I will tell you exactly about these varieties of apple trees.
Pinjur - Balkan-style eggplant caviar with sweet peppers, onions and tomatoes. Distinctive feature dishes - eggplants and peppers are first baked, then peeled and simmered for a long time in a roasting pan or in a thick-bottomed pan, adding the rest of the vegetables specified in the recipe. The caviar turns out to be very thick, with a bright, rich taste. In my opinion, this cooking method is the best known. Although it is more troublesome, the result compensates for the labor costs.
Preparing a seedling for planting.
The seedling was received by mail. Several options are possible.
The shipment did not last long, within a week. The seedling is in good or excellent condition after shipment. Before planting time, you can plant it in a glass, water it and lower it into the cellar or basement until spring. The seedling was in the post office for a long time, up to a month. In this case, after unpacking, the seedling should be carefully examined and the ends of the roots should be cut off.
Leave to soak in water for a day. After this, plant it in a container and lower it into the cellar until spring.
As a rule, before shipping, seedlings are packed in plastic bags, which prevent the roots from drying out and are well preserved.
Spring. The seedling was stored in the basement or purchased at the market. The main thing is not to introduce phylloxera into your vineyard. Seedlings brought from other places or purchased on the market from unknown sellers and winegrowers must always be disinfected in any case! To do this, dilute 30 g of BI-58N (aka new rogor, phosphamide) in a bucket of water, dip the whole seedlings in there for a couple of minutes, immediately wrap them in a bag and keep them in it for a day (P.P. Radchevsky). After this, rinse again in water. We examine the roots and growth of last year.
Cut off the top roots, if any. We shorten the lower roots, leaving them 4-6 cm long. Why so short and not just cut off the ends? Research by Lenz Moser has established the following. “The length of the roots is unlikely to affect the growth of young plants. Although grafted seedlings with longer roots begin to grow somewhat earlier than those whose roots are completely removed, already in the autumn of the first year the difference becomes insignificant, and in the second and third years it disappears completely. However, if the roots are not shortened at all, then the seedlings grow well in the first year, but from the third year they noticeably lag in growth."
If everything is in order, let it soak for a day or at least 10-12 hours in water. After soaking, trim off the growth, leaving 2-4 eyes. The cut should be light with protruding droplets of moisture. We wrap the roots of the plant in a damp cloth or plastic bag and transport it to the planting site.
The seedling was stored in a planting container made of plastic bottle or a glass. We water it warm water
and carefully remove from the container or glass.
Then we do everything as in the case described above. If you stored it yourself and know that the storage conditions ensured its good condition, you can transport it in this container or cup to the planting site and remove it immediately before planting. And there, if necessary, cut off the tips of the roots and the growth of the vine.
Before planting, treat the roots of the seedling with a clay mash for better survival. Clay mash is very easy to prepare. Pour clay into one third of the bucket, fill half the bucket with water. Stir until a uniform creamy consistency is obtained.
If your seedling was stored until May or early June and the buds in the eyes have already begun to emerge, the roots are not cut off before planting, since it is clear that the seedling has overwintered well, and young roots are already beginning to grow at the tips of the roots.
Vegetating seedling. We deliver it to the planting site in the container or glass in which it grows. We will plant without destroying the clod of earth in which the root system is located.
Autumn. The seedling was dug up from a school and was out of the ground for some time. All roots, with the exception of the heel ones, are cut off. We update the sections of the heel roots and treat them with a clay mash. Trim the growth, leaving 4 eyes. The seedling is ready for planting.
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Sincerely, the author of the site is Natalya Puzenko. E-mail me [email protected] is one of the most important responsibilities of gardeners. Planting seedlings can be done not only in autumn, but also in spring, giving sufficient time for preparation and reducing the risk of an unsuccessful wintering. Planting is a very responsible process, regardless of the type of plant, because the viability of a tree or shrub depends on the correct execution.
The timing of planting seedlings is limited by the physiological characteristics of their development, because both shrubs and trees can be replanted only during the dormant period, which lasts from the end of active growth in the fall until the opening of new buds in the spring. For regions with severe winters, in particular for middle zone Russia is considered optimal early boarding seedlings in the spring, which guarantees a higher chance of plant survival. Planting can begin only after the soil has thawed. Winter planting is considered less painful for the root system, but such technologies are very complex and should be entrusted only to specialists.
Whatever the time of planting the seedlings you choose, only high-quality, healthy seedlings will be able to take root and delight you for many years. When choosing them, take into account the maximum crown diameter of an adult plant, the required distances, carefully study all the conditions at the intended planting site and use them to select plants that are completely suitable for them. Buy seedlings from reliable, certified specialized nurseries and authorized garden centers, inspect each plant personally. Seedlings of fruit crops must have an intact strong root system, a well-overgrown grafting site, the thickness of the trunk should not be less than 2 cm, at least three skeletal branches(extending almost horizontally and at least 40 cm in length). Look for traces of mechanical damage on the branches and roots, check whether the rhizome sits tightly in the earthen coma. U open seedlings The roots should bend freely and not be dry. Pay attention to the presence of rotten spots, the tips of the branches, the integrity and color of the bark.
An important aspect of planting trees and shrubs is the need to preserve seedlings before planting and transport them to the site. Immediately after you acquire young plants, wrap the exposed rhizomes with cloth, and if the branches are fragile and splayed, tie the plant to avoid injury. Transport seedlings only in the car or wrapped in protective materials. If several days must pass before planting, keep the plants in a cool place, regularly adding soil to the container or wrapping the rhizome in a damp cloth and not allowing it to dry out. A seedling can be placed in water only immediately before planting.
Immediately before planting, they begin to prepare the seedlings for planting. To do this, all damaged root tips are cut off to healthy tissue and dry, thinned roots are removed. A few hours before planting, seedlings are soaked in a bucket of water, and container seedlings are watered generously so that the rhizome is saturated with moisture and the plant tolerates planting more easily. Typically, trees and shrubs growing in containers are planted together with a ball of earth or by removing only the surface layer. But the need to preserve the soil around the rhizome must be clarified when purchasing. In fruit and fast-growing ornamental trees and shrubs, before planting, you need to trim the shoots, shortening them by a third.
Proper planting of seedlings begins with planting holes, which must be prepared in advance: for the preferred spring planting still in the fall, and for the fall - a few weeks in advance. Shrubs are planted in planting holes about half a meter deep and at least 60 cm in diameter, trees - about 80 cm deep and a meter in diameter. Big size planting holes necessitates the creation around the plant optimally loose soil for the free development of rhizomes in the first years of cultivation. When digging a planting hole, only the top one is left and subsequently used to prepare the substrate. fertile layer soil to a maximum depth of no more than a spade bayonet. Long-acting fertilizers mixed with half of the removed top soil are placed at the bottom of the hole. For fruit crops - this is about 70 g. potassium sulfate, up to 1 kg of wood ash, a bucket of compost or mature manure, at least 1 kg of double superphosphate. Leftovers garden soil mixed with turf, peat soil, compost and sand depending on requirements specific type plants and left for subsequent backfilling.
Planting seedlings of fruit and ornamental crops is a simple process, but requires care and responsibility. If a tree or shrub needs support, it is advisable to install it before planting; later installation of supports can lead to unwanted injuries to the roots.
A mound is made at the bottom of the planting hole, and the seedling is placed on it, spreading the roots evenly. Typically, for fruit trees, the root collar should be located 3, maximum 5 cm above the ground level, ornamental shrubs- be on the same level with it without deepening. Determine the location of the root collar by placing a flat yard or board on top of the planting hole. The planting depth for each plant must be determined individually. Making sure that the central shoot is located as evenly as possible, the soil is poured into the planting hole, gradually and carefully filling the voids between the roots. After backfilling, the soil is carefully compacted, a water-retaining soil roller is made along the contour of the entire planting hole, and the seedling is watered abundantly, completing the planting by mulching the soil surface to retain moisture.
The first few days of weeks after planting, monitor soil subsidence and the position of the tree or shrub, adding soil as necessary and monitoring stable humidity soil.
Shumovskaya Tatyana Anatolevna
The article was prepared specifically for MirSovet.ru -
