BitLocker technology allows you to encrypt entire drives and partitions, but you can also create encrypted containers to store sensitive data and protect it from unauthorized access, and you can do this exclusively using tools built into Windows. Such encrypted containers can be easily moved between systems, backed up and hidden.
In this article, you will learn how to create an encrypted container on a Windows computer. But keep in mind that your PC must be running a professional or enterprise edition of Windows, as BitLocker features are only available in these editions operating system.
First of all, you need to create a virtual file hard drive(virtual hard drive, VHD file) - it can also be called a disk image. This file is stored on a physical disk and can be used as a virtual disk. For example, a 2 GB VHD file will take up 2 GB of space on your physical hard drive, but Windows will see it as a separate 2 GB drive.
Windows' native Disk Management tool provides everything you need to create and work with VHD files. Access this tool quickly and easily using the Run dialog. Press Windows logo key + R, enter the command diskmgmt.msc and press Enter. Windows 8 and 8.1 have even more convenient way: In the lower left corner of the screen, right-click (or press Windows + X on your keyboard) and select Disk Management.
In the Disk Management window, select Action >> Create Virtual Hard Disk.
Specify the desired size and location of the VHD file. The file will be stored in the location you choose, and its size will be exactly as you specify in this window. You can select Fixed Size as the VHD type, as recommended. After specifying all parameters, click “OK”.
The VHD will appear as another disk in the Disk Management window - right-click on it and select Initialize Disk.
Select the option "Table with GUID Partition Table (GPT - GUID Partition Table)" if you are using Windows 8 or 8.1. This is a new type of partition scheme and is more reliable because it stores multiple copies of the partition table on the disk.
If you are using Windows 7, or want to be able to mount and access the VHD file on Windows 7 systems, select Master Boot Record (MBR).
Now you need to create a partition on the VHD. Right-click where it says "Unallocated" and select "Create Simple Volume."
Next, go through the steps of the Create a Simple Volume wizard to create a partition with the NTFS file system. You can leave all parameters as default. The only thing is that you can change the volume label: for example, name your disk “Encrypted VHD”.
The created VHD file will appear in Explorer as a regular disk. Right-click on it and select “Enable BitLocker.”
BitLocker will immediately encrypt the drive, without rebooting the system. This is an almost instantaneous process if the disk is empty. Files stored on the drive will be encrypted and stored inside the VHD.
Once you're done with encryption, you can right-click on the drive and select Eject to lock the partition and unmount the VHD file on your computer. This will remove the virtual disk from the list of disks in the My Computer folder and the Disk Management window.
To access the encrypted VHD file in the future, open Disk Management and select Action >> Attach VHD. Then navigate to the location where the VHD file is stored on your computer and attach it to the system.
After reattaching the encrypted drive, you will be required to enter your password to unlock it. The password must also be entered after restarting the computer.
The VHD file can be easily copied and transferred to another system. To do this, copy and attach the VHD file to another Windows Professional or Enterprise system, and then unlock it with a password to gain access to the encrypted files. However, before copying the VHD file, be sure to eject the virtual disk to avoid ending up with a corrupted file.
Have a great day!
The housing issue has always been quite acute for us. Many young families have to live with their parents for decades, because not everyone can bear the burden of a mortgage. Today we will find out how to buildDIY container house. This method of construction is good because it takes only a few months, and the effort that needs to be put in is minimal.
This technology was developed abroad, where, as you know, they are not used to wasting money, and they resort to all kinds of savings - they buy everything on sales, recycle materials several times, etc.
To build the house, we will use twelve-meter iron containers weighing 4.5 tons and with a cross-section of 2.7x2.4 m (these are standard dimensions). The area of each of these containers will be about 30 m².
It is also worth noting that containers are widely used on frosty soil. Often, entire housing bases are built from them (mainly those intended for sea transportation) in the Far North and Antarctica.
So, we’ve sorted out the advantages of container houses, now let’s proceed directly to construction process. For work we will need:
We are buying two containers at once; it will cost (including delivery) about 100,000 rubles. After delivery, we check them for radiation. It would seem that this is unnecessary, but in reality it is in such containers that residual radiation “likes” to collect.
Note! The average background radiation rate for our latitudes is 35 microroentgens per hour.
A monolithic foundation is certainly not suitable in our case. It will quickly crack and be squeezed out of the ground (the latter, in turn, will begin to sag). For this reason, the foundation should be minimalistic, just like our future home.
Note! If our house starts to sink, we can always simply lift the container.
We make a regular “pillow” from any inert material, for example, gravel. Next, we install piles on the gravel (with delivery they will cost 9,000 rubles) - in parallel, at a distance of 6 meters from each other. As a result, we should get a perfect square.
We cannot install the containers on our own, although they weigh relatively little - about 5-6 tons. To do this, we resort to the services of special equipment. After installation, we securely weld the containers together using a gas generator and a welding machine.
Note! It is better to entrust this work to an experienced welder, who would weld the joint between the containers “in a circle.”
Next, we proceed to the main work. We take a grinder and cut off all unnecessary elements of the internal walls, cut through door and window openings. If the house is built in the summer (and in most cases it is), then by lunchtime it becomes too stuffy. In this case, we pick up the grinder only in the evening and early morning, and during the day we are busy installing the roof rafters and constructing the attic frame.
Step 1. To make the attic frame, we use a beam with a cross-section of 10x10 cm. To attach the beams to the container, we take self-tapping screws and connect them together with special plumbing bolts.
Step 2. After assembling the frame, we install the rafters for the roof. Each of the rafters will be 8 m long, so, as mentioned earlier, we select the appropriate boards - otherwise they will have to be spliced together. We connect everything with the same self-tapping screws, and not with nails (the latter are less reliable).
Of course, the first method of vapor barrier is simpler.
Note! Steel roofing, of course, is inexpensive, but during rain or strong wind she will be very noisy. Therefore, it is preferable to use some soft material, for example, ondulin.
To begin with, we install the sheathing from 6x6 cm beams (in increments of approximately 90 cm), attaching it with self-tapping screws to the walls of the containers. Then we take slabs of mineral wool (its dimensions are 6x100x300 cm) and lay them between the beams. We deliberately made the spacing of the beams smaller than the width of the slabs so that the wool would settle more tightly.
Everything is simple here: we take corrugated sheeting purchased in advance, preferably in light colors, and fix it to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
Regarding the interior decoration, it is almost the same as the exterior: the same sheathing beams and mineral wool, but we cover the insulation with chipboard sheets.
Note! We leave small gaps between the chipboard sheets (about 1.5 cm), which we will subsequently fill with foam - this will prevent dust from entering the house.
After this, we install double-glazed windows in the window openings, preferably double-chamber ones.
When insulating the floor, we use our usual scheme: we install the sheathing from the same timber and lay insulation mats. Next, we make the flooring using 15x4 cm boards, on top of which we lay the remaining chipboard.
To install the stove, we make a rectangular cutout in the chipboard in a pre-selected location, after which we lay the brick stove directly on the metal bottom of the container. There is no need to worry that something will happen to the oven, and there are reasons for this.
So, after a year, the container house may settle a little (presumably to the south, since the soil warms up faster there). To fix this, lift one of the sides with a car jack and place it under it. paving slabs 50x50 cm. That's it, the house has been successfully returned to its original position.
It is better to conduct electricity through special channels rather than through external walls. Firstly, it’s safer, and secondly, it’s more accurate. If desired, we can also install a sewer system - to do this, just make a small hole in the floor through which sewage pipe will lead to a pre-dug drainage ditch or septic tank.
Regarding water supply, we cannot advise anything - it all depends on the specific living conditions and the chosen location.
If you have free cash, you can purchase a ready-made container house. Today there are many manufacturers of such housing, both Russian and Chinese. Thus, a medium-sized house (2.5x4 m) with insulation and finishing will cost about 90,000 rubles. It is quite enough for a comfortable stay of two or three people.
More expensive models (2.5 x 8 m) with plumbing and shower will cost approximately 170,000 rubles.
It is worth noting that such houses can be moved from place to place, but this, of course, must be done with extreme caution.
So we built a container house - a completely tolerable budget housing option for the average citizen. There's probably no need to explain why homemade house, which cost about 300,000 rubles, costs more than ready-made structures. For those who still do not understand this, we say: our house is twice as large, because it consists of two containers, and at the same time it is equipped with an attic.
How to make a container block from sandwich panels
How excellent material For the construction of block containers, sandwich panels have proven themselves. The frame of such buildings is erected from a very durable profile or metal corner, which is then sheathed on all sides.
A block container made of sandwich panels weighs very little and can stand on any shallow foundation - concrete, strip or columnar. You can assemble such a shed with your own hands, subject to the correct technology, in just one day, provided that 2-3 people work.
The most commonly used panels are sandwich panels that have a galvanized steel top layer, due to which they are distinguished by their strength. And for insulation it is best to use mineral wool.
As for the advantages of assembling block containers from sandwich panels with your own hands, they are as follows:
The disadvantages of building a container block from sandwich panels include the considerable cost of the material, but over time it is fully justified.
The technology for building a container block with your own hands from sandwich panels looks like this:
1. It all starts with the construction of a shallow foundation (no more than 0.5 m). Suitable for these purposes brick base or a concrete foundation, as well as a columnar foundation.
At the time of assembly, it is imperative to ensure that the crossbars are clearly horizontal and vertical, otherwise the sandwich panels will not “lay down” correctly, and gaps may form between them.
3. Then the floor is laid, and after that it’s time for the roof. The slabs are connected by inserting ridges into grooves. At the same time, do not forget about the thermal insulation layers. After this, the walls are sheathed.
4. Done last doorways with windows. If necessary, additional Finishing work.
This is what it looks like to assemble a container block from sandwich panels with your own hands. In fact, everything is quite simple and uncomplicated, the main thing is to build a strong, reliable frame.
A do-it-yourself bathhouse made from sandwich panels is built using almost the same technology. The only difference here is certain conditions regarding the finishing and thermal insulation of the walls. Today on the Internet you can watch videos on the topic of construction from sandwich panels, find drawings and diagrams of all kinds of buildings.
Block container- this is a convenient and economically feasible option mobile buildings. Ready-made cabins block containers standard sizes and collapsible block containers, which are installed on site, are two ways of arranging premises for a wide variety of needs.
Efficiency, affordable price and high performance characteristics ensured the popularity of this type of development.
Modular block containers are delivered ready-made and installed on a prepared base. The design is such that it allows the construction of buildings from block containers of significant area, connecting them horizontally and vertically into 3 or more floors.
Prefabricated block containers, on the contrary, are installed on site using the frame-panel assembly method from individual blocks.
A block container is made from sandwich panels based on a welded metal frame.
External and interior decoration walls depends on the purpose of the building and the wishes of the customer, standard option - outer skin from sheets corrugated sheets(galvanized or painted), internal - chipboard.
When placed in an open space, an insulated block container is made, using a layer of mineral wool between the inner and outer layers of sandwich panels as insulation.
The floor is also insulated. If the installation or assembly of a block container is planned inside a permanent structure, then insulation can be omitted or minimally applied.
The layout has several standard options, including those divided into two or three separate rooms, depending on the customer’s needs. For example, a vest block container is a popular option in which the internal space is divided into two independent halves, connected by a small service area.
Internal equipment includes any necessary communications.
Subject to technical conditions, it is possible to provide electricity, natural gas, water supply and sewerage, cable television and the Internet.
The materials transmit radio waves and cellular signals well. Thus, a block container allows you to cheaply solve the problem of arranging a room for any purpose.
Block containers are used to solve a wide variety of problems.
Industrial, warehouse, and residential block containers have been successfully operated for 10-15 years, fully satisfying the needs of customers. The difference lies in the level of interior decoration of such cabins.
We carry out the production of block containers, delivery and installation modular buildings for such needs:
If necessary, equip sanitary block container we apply necessary materials for hydro- and vapor barrier of premises.
This allows you to equip a shower room, sauna, bathhouse in a block container, toilet, use it as a laundry room, etc.
— Fully ready for use.
— Prompt delivery time.
— Equipping with the required equipment.
— Savings during transportation (up to 8 containers per transport unit).
— Unlimited number of installation/disassembly.
— Ecologically clean materials.
— Regions of use from -50° to +50°.
— Availability of certificates for materials.
We are ready to design, manufacture, deliver and install in the shortest possible time.
Order a block container in Moscow e by best price- this is also for us! Our clients are already convinced that we know how to value their money and time.
By purchasing block container inexpensive, do not think that the price will affect the quality of the work.
Modern production and materials from the best manufacturers allow us to maintain our brand and always delight our customers with the quality of our designs.
Compliance with the requirements of ISO9001:2001, GOST 23118-99, GOST 15.902-85, as well as SNiP 31-03-2001, II-23-81, III-18-75 are mandatory, regardless of the cost and urgency of the order.
To buy block containers or place an order for development individual project, you just need to contact us. We are always ready to answer any questions you may have, clarify details and dispel any doubts you may have. Contact us in a way convenient for you, we are waiting!
Our products have a certificate of conformity No. ROSS RU.SL08.N00012.
Empty container containers comply with GOST 22853-86.
We produce in different configurations:
Bunker block-container is a space designed for comfortable work in the climatic conditions of body parts 1A-1D in accordance with the requirements of slag 3.11.79 air temperature 35&to -45&C, wind pressure up to 48 kgf/m2 and snow cover pressure up to 150 kgf/m2.
Note: A bulk cargo permit is required for the supply of 3 meter wide containers.
Length: 6 m in standard design, container cabins with lengths of 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0 and 9.0 m.
Height: 2.5 m.
Width: 2.5 m in standard version, also 3.0 m.
NB:
— For the delivery of cabins and container blocks with a width of 3 meters, a permit for the carriage of goods is required.
The supporting structure of the container block is a rectangular frame.
The metal part of the rectangular frame consists of an upper and lower band of curved channel no. 14 and corner stops from a curved corner no. 100. The metal part is electrically welded and then varnished with enamel.
There are eyebrows for loading the container block.
The wooden part of the blocking container serves to strengthen the frame and secure the outer and inner shell. It consists of a storey vestibule, corner columns and ceilings with 100x100mm timber, vertical and horizontal 100x50mm timber flow.
roofing
Flat roof made of steel plates 1.7-2.0 mm thick, welded with a continuous seam and then painted with enamel. The roof of the house is insulated with URSA mineral wool with a layer of 50 mm. There is a layer of vapor barrier made of PVC film or glass.
The walls are a multi-layer structure,
Sandwich panel:
The bottom layer of the floor is made of peripheral plates, the thermal insulation layer is made of URSA mineral wool with a layer of 50 mm, the steam beams are made of PVC or parchment.
The floors are made from particle-resistant particle boards.
Covering with linoleum - at the request of the customer. pay.
Frame, non-insulated partitions. They are made of the same material as the walls and ceiling of the container unit.
Entrance door - wooden frame, The outer cover is made of galvanized iron, with a built-in lock.
Metal doors can be installed at an additional cost.
Interior doors - wooden frame covered with FESCO, painted with white enamel.
Door sizes:
Exposed wooden double glazing, already glazed.
to come back to the beginning
The construction of the summer hut is a wooden frame, lined on the outside, with fiberboard on the inside.
In wall cavities, URSA insulation is installed on the floor and ceiling.
External Household Measures
Length - 5.8 m in the standard version, cabins are available in lengths of 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 meters.
Height - 2.5 m (ceiling height inside the cabin is in the range of 2.05-2.10 m).
The width is 2.3 m in the standard version.
The frame of the cabin frame is a log 100 x 50 mm.
The stocks are also designed to carry cabins within the area. The frame consists of:
— soil inhibition;
- corner posts and ceiling brackets from a rod 50x50 mm:
— Vertical and horizontal logs 100x50 mm.
The cabin roof is flat, made of iron, painted with enamel or galvanized sheet metal.
Heating - URSA mineral wool.
The vapor barrier layer is made of PVC film or glass.
The bottom layer of the cabin floor is an unedged board, an insulating layer - mineral wool, steam - PVC film or transparent paper. Floor finishing: chipboard moisture content 28 mm.
Walls made of wooden cabins are multilayer structures:
Internal sections
The edge of the partitions, insulated, is finished with the same material as the walls.
The cabin door is a wooden frame covered with pine or fibers.
Door sizes:
Windows in color - wooden, open, glazed.
to come back to the beginning
The original purpose of a standardized cargo container is to transport goods and personal belongings.
But, thanks to their strength and durability, these structures are increasingly used as warehouses, utility, commercial and residential premises. When converting a sea container into housing, attention is first paid to effective insulation, which will help save on energy in the winter.
For all houses built using traditional technologies from concrete, foam concrete and similar materials, external insulation is considered the most effective.
This is due to the fact that these materials are porous. Therefore, they are saturated with moisture, which freezes at subzero temperatures and causes the formation of microcracks.
External protection protects walls from these problems.
With a sea container, things are different, since it is made of such a specific material as steel, which has high thermal conductivity, a tendency to corrosion and lack of porosity. And if in traditional building materials the dew point (the place where condensation occurs when there is a large difference between the external and internal temperatures) is located inside them, then in the case of metal walls it is located either with outside, or from the inside.
Correctly carried out insulation of a sea container from the inside will allow you to avoid in both cases negative consequences, which are: steel corrosion, indoor dampness, fungus.
In practice this means that any metal element, located inside the container, must be connected to the outer steel lining only through gaskets made of wood or other material with low thermal conductivity.
Such a container is a real thermos, for which cooling the outer metal walls to temperatures of -30°C or even lower is not a problem.
To prevent weakening of rigidity, which leads to the production of additional holes, welding is done on both sides of the openings from the ceiling to the floor profile pipes, acting as vertical posts. Horizontal sections of pipes are welded above and below the openings and connected by welding to vertical posts. The profile is welded to the sheathing pointwise, and to each other - with a continuous seam. The old container doors are welded shut.
All places where insulation comes into contact with hot surfaces are insulated with stone wool pads 50-100 mm thick.
Let's consider two methods of installing thermal insulation boards, suitable for both external and internal insulation.
Installation of lathing with laying slabs in cells
Installation of plates on a metal surface
Advice! This method of laying thermal insulation boards is not used for floors, since they quickly fail.
This technology is also not used for the ceiling.
<< Гараж из морского контейнераЖилые модульные здания >>
Manufacturing and assembly
I agree that a clear visualization of the technological characteristics of the purchased product is much easier to understand if there is a need to purchase it.
We present you with materials on the process of assembling a standard block, for example: TRANSPAK. Some may see this as a short guide; someone can only satisfy their curiosity; and for someone to give an additional opportunity to get acquainted with the main points that determine the quality of the purchased product.
So, why TRANSPAK? This is a block of ships with a special type of equipment, which is characterized by optimal transport standards.
For example, on one traffic platform you can place up to 8 standard container blocks, which, as you understand, are very convenient. Especially when new products come from the manufacturer's premises.
As you know, new block Transpac containers are delivered to the customer in parts, so the creation of a modular space begins with the assembly of container blocks.
Like anyone else technological process, the assembly of container blocks is divided into several stages, which we warn about.
Unload and install the block container
Unloading a block of containers from the transport platform is carried out using conventional lifting mechanisms, for example: using truck cranes with a lifting capacity of more than 3 tons.
All standard and special requirements are required at this stage.
Installation is performed either on prefabricated foundation, or on flat ground, which allows the container block to have six reliable support points. Concrete or stone structures cubic shapes are suitable as supports.
Removing transport zippers
Like any complex design, the TRANSPAK container transports its closures to protect the product from damage and deformation during transport.
To remove these fasteners, you must unscrew the fasteners (nuts and bolts). All fasteners must be saved (they will be needed for further work).
Unpacking the components of the block container
In the next step, we make the unpacking transport package (from which it was actually named "Transpac"), consisting of work stations for assembling frames, floor, wall, ceiling, side and corner, quick partition walls, packaging and other supporting elements.
Construction of doors, windows and heaters are all included in the kit. During disassembly transport packaging First, protective covers and other elements of transport connections must be separated.
Assembling corners
We began to form the skeleton of the future room.
To do this, place vertical brackets at the corners of the bottom platform that form the floor. The corner beams are firmly secured in place using fasteners left over from removing the transport connections.
At this stage, the upper tongues, which are a mandatory element support pillars, lubricated with silicone (to ensure tightness and elasticity of the connection).
In the areas of the lower joints (between the columns and the lower platform) silicone is used without failure.
Installation of the upper platform of the container block
The final step in the frame design process is the installation of the upper platform (the roof of the future room).
The upper platform (using lifting equipment) is mounted on already prepared side supports and secured with threaded connections.
After installing the roof, the mounting screws in the lower and upper corners of the side rails are tightly tightened.
Rubber Seal Sticker
One of the main elements that make it possible to seal future spaces is rubber seals. Despite the fact that these elements are almost invisible, they play an important role in ensuring comfortable conditions in a modular room.
Elastic and lightweight - glued from the inside of the support posts and top platform.
All frame elements are installed in vertical and horizontal planes. Compliance with the requirements of technical documentation, building codes and safety standards is mandatory.
At the end of the Label Print step, the building module frame is considered complete, but the block assembly is not yet complete.
And in front of us, we are still working on the installation wall panels, doors, windows and outlets. But read about it in the following materials:
Container bath: where to start
Zoning
Furnace installation: making the right choice
Finishing a bathhouse from a container: basic recommendations
Since building a solid bathhouse from scratch requires not only financial resources, but also certain skills, this may not always be available depending on the circumstances. In this case, non-standard, but very practical solutions will come to the rescue.
So, for example, you can make a bathhouse from a container with your own hands, which is what we will discuss in this article.
A real traditional bathhouse, built of wood, is, of course, ideal option and the ultimate dream of every steamer. However, making your dream come true is not always possible. The reasons may be either a lack of funds or a simple lack of sufficient space on the site.
Therefore, you can resort to alternative options. One of these is a bathhouse built from a container. It is not only affordable and relatively easy to install, but also very functional.
So, first of all, you need, of course, the container itself, or the change house.
As well as materials for vapor and waterproofing, internal and exterior finishing. Today, ready-made trailers equipped for a bathhouse are already on sale.
But despite this, the option to buy a container and arrange it yourself will be cheaper. And in this case you can be sure of using high-quality finishing materials, this is especially important for insulation.
At the same stage, it is necessary to plan the location of the main areas of the future bathhouse and provide for the optimal placement of the drainage system;
At this stage, you should clean the surfaces of the container walls from possible contamination and carefully seal any existing cracks. If necessary, outside strengthen metal frame. Next, outside and inside, it is necessary to cover the walls with waterproofing material and then with insulation. When choosing materials for external vapor and waterproofing, preference should be given to glassine or materials based on mineral wool, without impurities;
They involve covering the future bathhouse from the outside and inside. At the same time, it is better to sheathe the outside of the bathhouse with wooden beams, be sure to treat the wood with special compounds designed to protect against fungus, mold and possible fire. And inside the room you should cover the insulation layer with waterproofing, and only then proceed with decorative finishing;
It is best made from two layers of boards, and insulated in the locker room and shower with the same materials that were used for the walls and ceiling;
It is a frame made of beams, covered with boards and then clapboard;
When building a bathhouse from a block container, for maximum comfortable use, it is important to divide it into several zones.
It would be logical to provide them with the following arrangement:
In this case, the boiler installed to internal partition steam rooms will heat two adjacent rooms, except the locker room.
It is very convenient and practical.
It is important to foresee the type of stove for a bathhouse made from a container at the preparatory stage.
And it is better to install the hole for the pipe before finishing work on the ceiling begins.
Among existing varieties sauna stoves, for a small bathhouse from a sea container the most optimal would be:
As a rule, a traditional stationary bathhouse uses a combination of a metal tank and brickwork.
Considering the small size of the bathhouse being created, one tank for heating water will be sufficient. It can be purchased ready-made; the range of various models on the modern market is represented by both foreign and domestic manufacturers
Or you can make such a tank yourself, for which you should choose a special one metallic profile, able to withstand high temperatures.
To do this, you should choose a place taking into account the natural movement of air and the need to heat the remaining rooms of the bathhouse. As a rule, the installation is carried out near the partition that separates the steam room from the washing compartment (shower).
It should be taken into account that the distance from the tank to the wall must be at least 20 cm. In this case, the wall itself should be covered with a layer of heat-reflecting and thermally insulating material, and the floor under the stove must be reinforced with a cement base.
As an option to provide a shower hot water, you can make a water supply running from the stove.
In order for the liquid to circulate freely in it, it is important to pay attention to the correct arrangement of objects:
In the case where there is no connection to a pressure water supply, it is preferable to install a container with a larger volume of water.
This will avoid moments when the water suddenly runs out.
Also, you should carefully choose pipes. They must be designed for use at high temperatures.
When performing finishing work in a bathhouse from a container, it should be taken into account that:
It can be made of aspen or pine, as well as exotic tree species;
After the main work on installing and arranging a bathhouse from a sea container is completed, you can proceed to processing wooden surfaces special compounds.
This measure will not only significantly improve the appearance of the wood, but will also serve as an excellent preventive measure against mold, mildew and premature wear.
If this step is skipped, the untreated wood loses its color and gradually, over about 3 to 5 years, begins to darken. And this worsens the aesthetic appearance of the bathhouse.
It is mandatory to treat wooden surfaces in the locker room and shower areas.
For this you can choose universal formulations based on natural oils or wax. Their operating principle is approximately the same: penetrating into the deep layers of wood, they form a protective film on its surface.
However, it is important to remember that such compositions are not suitable for treating sun loungers in a steam room, as they can cause burns if they come into contact with the skin!
As for the treatment of the steam room, there are several points of view. According to one, treating surfaces in a steam room with any (even the most harmless) compounds is categorically unacceptable. According to another point of view, processing is possible using the most natural compounds that do not form a film on the surface of the wood.
In any case, the modern market offers a wide range of similar products from different manufacturers and price categories, which will allow you to choose the most suitable composition.
Now, knowing how to make a bathhouse from a container with your own hands, you can safely start making your dream of your own bathhouse come true!
During construction or simply for temporary residence in a country house, a simple-to-construct and unpretentious building is often required. As they say, cheap and cheerful. Often such temporary buildings are built from wood and have minimal functionality. But today a new type of temporary buildings has become widespread - a block container. It can serve as both temporary housing for builders and completely permanent housing for summer residents. It is quite easy to build a block container with your own hands, and its functionality will allow you to fully enjoy the fruits of civilization outside the city.
When planning to build a block container on a site, you need to decide in advance what it will be like. This determines how much money and effort will be spent on its installation. The fact is that block containers, according to the method of assembly, can be divided into three types: self-assembled block container, converted from a transport container, and collapsible block container. Each of these types of block containers has its own advantages and disadvantages. Which one will be preferred depends only on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owners.
Most of these structures are built with your own hands from scratch and according to your own drawings. Metal corners are used for their frame, for external walls corrugated sheets, interior finishing is done by covering with clapboard or plywood, stone or mineral wool is used as insulation. A distinctive feature of such block containers is non-standard sizes. In fact, such a block container can be made with your own hands of any size and shape. To erect the entire structure, you will need a welding machine and skill in working with it, which can be a decisive factor in favor of a self-assembled container.
Today, block containers converted from transport containers are especially popular. They have many advantages, but also a lot of disadvantages. The main advantage of such a container is already finished design, which only needs to be slightly modified. But such a disadvantage as standard sizes may not work in favor of a shipping container when choosing. Of course, it is quite suitable as temporary housing for workers, but as a seasonal country house it can be quite inconvenient.
With the development of the market and technology in construction, block containers began to appear, which are easy to install and also easy to disassemble. Collapsible containers are very popular among construction companies. They can be disassembled and stored in a warehouse, fortunately, they take up little space, and if necessary, sheds can be quickly erected for workers at the construction site. The production of such block containers is carried out by specialized companies. The design itself is for the most part similar to a homemade block container, but the use of sandwich boards as walls, floors and ceilings clearly distinguishes a prefabricated block container. If you don’t want to bother with welding, then if you have a certain amount of money, you can purchase a ready-made block container and simply assemble it like a construction set. For a prefabricated block container the price ranges from 2,000 USD. up to 5,000 USD and depends on the internal area.
Having decided on the type of block container, you can begin installing it. As already noted, each type of block containers requires certain labor costs. The most labor-intensive is homemade. To create it, you will first have to complete a drawing, purchase materials, then assemble the frame and sheathe it. The simplest and least labor-intensive collapsible container. But the total cost may be higher. Let's look at how to assemble each of these types of block containers with your own hands.
When starting work on creating a homemade block container, the first thing you have to do is its drawing. To do this, you can use a computer program such as ArchiCad, or you can simply draw a simple drawing on a sheet of paper. The drawing must indicate all the dimensions of the future block container showing the installation location of the door and windows. For a self-made block container, you can choose almost any size convenient for you. But there is one important point. If in the future it is necessary to transport such a container, then its width should not exceed 2.5 m. To create a block container, the drawing must contain a description of all materials and dimensions. Particular attention should be paid to the frame, namely the installation location of the door and windows. The doorway and windows will require additional studs. Finally, we indicate the material for wall cladding and insulation. From materials you will need the following:
From the tool you will need Bulgarian, welding machine, tape measure, drill, manual circular saw , hammer, screwdriver. As for wood fasteners, you can opt for screws or nails.
Having acquired everything necessary, we proceed to the construction of the block container. Begin from preparing the site for the installation of a block container. To do this, we level the ground and compact it thoroughly. To prevent the container from standing on bare ground, it is necessary to create a simple foundation for it. To do this, you can build brick columns, put concrete plates or create a pile foundation.
Next, we move on to cutting pieces of channel for the frame using a grinder. Having received the required number of pieces the right size, let's start welding them. At the beginning create the bottom harness. To do this, we take channels corresponding to the length and width of the block container, lay them out on a previously prepared surface and weld them together into one continuous frame. During the welding process, corners can become loose, so to prevent this from happening, you need to grab the corner at several points, then check and, if everything is fine, then weld the entire seam to the end.
Important! To make a simple pitched roof, it is enough to cut several racks of greater length. Usually the racks on the door side are made longer. But this approach is justified if it is not planned to create a different type of roof.
Having welded the lower trim, let's move on to the racks. They will be located in the corners of the trim, one or two on the back wall, as well as in the area of the doorway and windows. We start from the corners. After the stand is installed, it is necessary for a partner to hold it in a strictly vertical position while the welder grabs the stand in several places. And if we managed to do it without tilting, then we finally weld the stand. For additional stability, triangular spacers can be welded at the bottom of the post. We weld all the other racks in the same way.
Important! The distance between the doorway posts should be equal to the width of the door. Also, for reliability, a jumper is welded between them at the top. The height from the lintel to the corner should be equal to the height of the door. The same applies to window openings. But in addition to the upper one, they must also have a lower jumper.
The next step would be welding of the top trim. Everything is quite simple here. Corners for the top trim are placed on top of the already welded perimeter racks and welded.
After the frame has been created, let's start arranging the floor for a block container. To do this, first create a subfloor from metal sheets. This is done in order to protect the finished wooden floor from exposure to moisture and the penetration of rodents into the block container. The sheets are laid out inside the frame. Their edges should be placed inside the bent channel and also rest on the foundation. When the sheets are laid out and their edges are fitted close to each other, we spot weld the sheets together. Then we place several narrow pieces of metal on top of the seam, so that they are placed perpendicular to the main seam, and weld them. Finally, we weld the sheets along the seam.
Further We proceed to covering the block container with galvanized corrugated sheeting. Everything is quite simple here. Sheets of corrugated sheets are installed from the inside of the frame. If the height of the sheets is slightly larger, then they can be trimmed with a grinder without much difficulty. The corrugated sheet is fixed to the frame in several ways. You can use short metal screws with a wide head, or you can fasten them with tear-off rivets.
Important! When installing sheets in window openings, you should allow the sheet to overlap the window opening by 3 - 4 cm. This is necessary in order to hide the cracks and places filled with foam after installing the windows.
Having finished with the walls, go to the roof of the block container. For the roof itself we use the same corrugated sheeting. The only thing that will need to be done is to weld a few more jumpers between the walls to securely fasten the corrugated sheeting. Next, we lay the corrugated sheet itself and fix it to the metal frame.
The next step would be creation of a wooden frame, its insulation and cladding. The frame itself is needed for laying insulation so that the latter does not fall out or crumble. For this we use a wooden beam. First we install the racks, then we make jumpers between them. Inner dimensions between the racks and lintels must correspond to the size of the insulation, minus 5 - 10 mm for reliable fastening inside. Now we lay a superdiffusion membrane on top of the frame and fasten it to the wooden frame. Finally, insulation is placed inside the frame and a superdiffusion membrane is laid on top of it again. All that remains is to cover the walls with plywood or clapboard. We cover the ceiling in a similar way.
As for the floor, it will be on wooden joists laid on metal sheets. Its creation is similar to wall cladding. First we lay the joists. We choose the step between them so that the insulation fits there. Then we lay the insulation and lay the membrane on top. All that remains is to lay and secure the boards for the floor itself. The boards themselves need to be sharpened, fitted closely and secured to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws, and the finishing floor covering should be laid on top of them.
Now moving on to the windows and doors. Since such a block container is intended for temporary residence, it would not be superfluous to take care of a strong and reliable door. It would be best to make it yourself from steel sheets. But creating such a door requires a lot of experience, so it’s easier to buy or make it to order. The door itself is installed on metal hinges, which are welded to bent channel posts. When installing hinges, you must strictly ensure that they are on the same line. For metal door three loops are installed. Two on top, at a distance of 20 and 50 cm from the edge of the door, and one below, at a distance of 30 cm from the threshold. After which the doors are hung in place.
As for windows, there is one important point. Windows are vulnerable to break-ins, so they will need to be protected with bars. The grill itself is welded to a steel channel, which acts as a window opening. The windows themselves can be either wooden or metal-plastic. When installing, you need to check the verticality of the window so that it does not fall over. The gaps between window frame and the channel stand can be foamed. This completes the creation of a homemade block container. If desired, additional finishing work can be carried out inside.
The fashion for everything Western has also affected block containers. Today it has become popular to use block containers converted from sea shipping containers as cabins or even permanent housing. The cost of a block container converted from a transport container may be slightly higher compared to a home-made one, but the work required to equip it is an order of magnitude less.
To make a metal block container converted from a transport container, the first thing you have to do is select and purchase a used container itself. Ads for the sale of shipping containers can be found without problems. Such containers are produced in several sizes: standard and HC (High Cube). Respectively, 20 and 40 feet in length (6 and 12 meters), a width of 2.35 m and a height of 2.4 m and 2.7 m. A standard container can be found for an average of 1200 USD, and a HC container for 2100 USD. e. Such standard sizes impose certain restrictions, this is especially unpleasant with regard to the width of the container. But the solution to this situation can be the docking of two or more containers. To create a livable block container from a transport, you need to do the following:
Of all the block containers, the most expensive and at the same time the easiest to assemble is the collapsible block container. Such containers are made to order at a specialized enterprise. The prefabricated container block has standard width 2.5 m, and its length can vary from 2.5 m to 6 m. It is also possible to create a block container of greater length. The assembly of such a container is carried out by two assemblers and resembles a regular construction set, the assembly time is from 4 to 6 hours. Such high assembly rates are due to the use of sandwich panels and pre-fitted parts. When doing the assembly yourself for the first time, the company can provide its own specialist and a full set of assembly documentation.
Prefabricated containers are assembled in several stages. At the first stage, the frame is assembled and connected using bolts. On the second floor, the floor is laid and the roof is mounted. At the third stage, the walls are installed. Finally, the windows and doors are installed. In the photo demonstrating a collapsible block container, you can see how easy and simple such containers are to install.
There are no block containers in creating special secrets or difficulties. The main thing that is needed is the ability to handle the tool. Since it depends on this whether you can assemble the entire structure with your own hands. For those who are not used to or do not know how to work with their own hands, we can recommend hiring specialists and purchasing a ready-made block container.
