Trying to figure out how to glue correctly vinyl wallpapers? They have their own characteristics in application and, knowing them, the gluing process will not be difficult. Washable vinyl wallpaper - very convenient and practical wall material. They are moisture resistant, easy to remove dirt from, and contain special antifungal components.
Those who have decided to insulate their balcony or loggia and comfortably decorate and equip this new room can safely recommend the use of this material. Correctly selected wallpaper will not only give the balcony a pleasant appearance, but will also last a long time.
Once you have decided which type you will use, you can begin to calculate the required amount of wallpaper and all the necessary materials.
One of the proven and reliable ways to calculate the required number of rolls of wallpaper is to determine the perimeter of the floor and the height of the room. To do this, you need to add up all the sides of the floor and multiply the resulting number by the height of the room. Then subtract from this the area of the window and doorways and divide the remainder by the area of one roll. Round the final number up - you have received the number of rolls that will be needed to cover a specific room.
If implemented gluing vinyl wallpaper with a picture, then additional calculations will be needed to adjust the image. An important concept here is the pattern pitch - the distance separating two identical images along the length of the roll. The difficulty is that the actual step may differ from this figure, since you will be gluing the right and left parts.
Please note: to avoid complications, add 5 cm per strip in 10 cm increments. The amount of waste in this case will be equal to half a step from each strip.
Once you have calculated how many rolls of wallpaper you will need, you can estimate how much glue will be needed. Don't blindly trust what is written on the package. The amount of glue for vinyl wallpaper is determined on the basis that a pack of 250 g is enough for an average of 20-25 square meters. Sometimes the flow rate may exceed these parameters.
You picked suitable wallpaper, determined how much material will be needed. Next, prepare all the necessary tools. In the process of preparing the room and when gluing vinyl wallpaper, we use:
Now you have stocked up with everything you need. Familiarize yourself with the topic, and you can begin the actual process.
Vinyl wallpapering completed.
The most difficult and painstaking work is finishing small details and gluing corners and joints. To avoid troubles in the form of gaps and pronounced seams, glue the pieces of wallpaper overlapping. For vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven basis it is 1-2 mm, on paper - up to 5 mm. The issue of gluing the corners is somewhat more difficult to resolve.
This is the most the hard part work: question, how to glue corners, often confuses, especially beginners. When starting this stage, coat the corner thickly with glue. It is better to cut the canvas so that it overlaps the adjacent walls by 2-3 cm.
If you measured the angle using a level and found that it is very “overwhelmed,” use the trimming method. Glue the first piece in exactly the same way, only leave the edges wider - about 9 cm. Place the strips on the sides strictly vertically (the same level will help with this) at a distance of 2 cm. Cut the overlap with a sharp knife - both layers together. And then glue it back upper layer.
After all the main stages of work have been completed, check how you installed the vinyl wallpaper. Check to see if there are any un-glued areas or bubbles on the walls. Replace previously removed sockets and switches. If there are any radiators, radiators or other devices in the room, behind which there are hard-to-reach areas of the wall, then you can not paste them over, but simply paint them in a color similar to the wallpaper.
Have you become familiar with the how to properly glue vinyl wallpaper, and found out that even on balconies and loggias they can be used as wall decoration. If this article helped you make repairs, then leave your comments. Or perhaps you have your own secrets for wallpapering? Please share your unique experiences. Your advice can be very useful to many people.
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We also invite you to watch the video on the topic of our article. This video shows how to properly glue vinyl wallpaper.
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To the post “How to properly glue vinyl wallpaper: step-by-step instructions” 10 comments
The first time I needed to install vinyl wallpaper in my apartment, I was slightly shocked. How to work with them?! But after reading the articles and studying all the intricacies, wallpapering was not as terrible as I initially thought it would be. The most important thing in this matter, in my opinion, is to prepare the wall well for wallpaper. It should be clean (without any traces of the old coating) and even.
And I was just very disappointed for the first time after gluing vinyl wallpaper, since I didn’t know all these subtleties and glued this together with my husband. On the second day, the two of us simply gasped, the joints were generally bristling. So for me the joints and corners turned out to be big problem, and the second time they hired a specialist. It’s a pity that I didn’t come across such an article earlier.
Recently I hung vinyl wallpaper on non-woven backing in village house. Of course, they hide the unevenness a little, but I had to tinker with the joints for a very, very long time. Due to the fact that the walls are slightly uneven, the wallpaper goes either butt to butt or overlaps. Where the joint is joint - everything is fine, even the seam is practically invisible. But that’s where the overlap is where it’s a problem. The wallpaper does not want to stick together, so the top layer sticks out very much. Maybe this is due to the fact that the wallpaper is thick.
We always glue wallpaper at home ourselves. It always turns out differently. My husband and I often argue about how to properly hang wallpaper. After reading the article, we learned many of the intricacies of this difficult matter. It was useful to know the stages of work; we understood our mistake, that we did not have the correct organization and did everything wrong. Now we will glue strictly according to your recommendations.
I was looking for similar instructions on the Internet for a very long time, and thank you very much for describing everything step by step. My husband is on a business trip and I had to do this “fun” thing myself - gluing wallpaper. the business is not easy, but there were children helpers nearby (although they are 5-6 years old)) and a fighting spirit) I’ll start with the fact that choosing wallpaper is very difficult, firstly, finding a quality product at a reasonable price is not always easy , secondly, to match the interior so that your eyes don’t get tired in a year or two - sometimes you don’t have enough patience, and pleasing all family members in terms of color and design is not an easy task. in general, we dealt with this quickly, but how to glue them, if you don’t call a team... if I hadn’t found the video and photos, I would hardly have taken up this task. For me the most difficult thing was: gluing the corners. if it weren’t for your site, it would have been just “corner hell”, since I had absolutely no idea how, what and where. thanks a lot! in general, my wallpaper was glued in 3 days)) with my own hands) so I feel like a heroine)) everyone is happy, thanks to you))
When we hung vinyl wallpaper in a private house, the “first pancake” was a huge lump! But... the Internet is here to help, and after learning a lot of problems from this article, we took the risk of painting another room ourselves! A nice tip was to apply an antifungal agent to the walls. I hope the walls won't grow mold. But it still took a lot of work to glue the corners correctly! But we did it! Now we have experience in gluing and the next rooms are not so scary. I would like to put up photo wallpaper in the living room. I think we will succeed now!
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Vinyl samples have earned popularity for their beauty, durability, easy care and quick gluing. And the question of how to glue vinyl wallpaper can be solved effectively. How to do this with your own hands efficiently and quickly? Why this particular type of painting? This is what my article is about!
I chose vinyl material because:
Convinced you of your choice? Now all that remains is to decide on the texture and color, and prepare for pasting with your own hands. Remember, moving towards a goal begins with preparation. So:
Calculation of material consumption and preparation of walls is the first stage of repair.
I calculate the required amount like this:
You should always buy more material so that the pasting ensures the pattern matches. To do this, I determine the distance between it: if it is 10 cm, then I add 5 cm to the strip. In this case, each roll should be checked for shade matching. An extra strip will help with minor repairs: if, for example, a cat tears the material.
The instructions on the roll indicate which glue is needed. this species wallpaper
So, foamed vinyl is popular because it masks wall defects. This will make it easier to prepare them before gluing the vinyl sheets.
First, I got rid of the old finish: I cleaned off both the paint and the crumbling plaster. It is easier to glue the sheets onto drywall: it is initially smooth and does not require tedious leveling (if the seams are puttied). After all, wall curvatures of more than 1 cm must be leveled!
Then you need to turn off the electricity for the entire time of pasting and remove sockets and switches so as not to interfere.
Let's move on to the next stage - find out how to cover the walls with vinyl wallpaper.
Finishing with this type is also available to beginners, because the interlining does not get wet and therefore does not shrink when the glue dries.
The level (plumb line) will give the vertical where we want to glue the first canvas.
Wallpaper glue usually comes with instructions. By the way, saving on mortar often spoils expensive repairs. So which glue is better? I chose from expensive ones, special for vinyl, heavy materials.
The proportions of the ratio of water and powder strictly correspond to the instructions:
Beginners should not rush into work. I recommend doing everything carefully, because the solution that has slightly dried out on the wall can be refreshed, and the unevenly placed canvas can be torn off and glued again.
During gluing, avoid drafts so that the material dries evenly.
When the wallpaper has dried, apply a long ruler and cut off the excess canvas with a construction knife: first at the ceiling, then at the floor. Moreover, the bottom can be run directly under the baseboard (wherever possible).
Then you need to cut holes for switches and sockets. First, crosswise from the center, then cut off the edge.
Now you can install previously removed boxes on sockets and switches that were de-energized when wallpapering.
The rules for gluing samples on a paper base are a little more complicated due to possible damage to the material when wet from the glue.
Among important advice In the case of how to properly glue vinyl wallpaper, there is a recommendation for priming the walls. After all, it is precisely this (especially antifungal) that is needed under vinyl on paper to ensure its durability. The non-woven base itself will protect itself from mold.
The price of wallpaper with a paper base is affordable, but their installation is more difficult: they are heavier, so they sometimes break and tear. However, the gluing is the same, and such dense samples better hide wall defects.
The absorption time is indicated on the roll by the manufacturer and should be followed with each sheet. Otherwise, one strip will stretch more strongly, the second - less, which will result in a skew.
If the fabric has stretched, when it dries, a gap sometimes appears at the joint. Here we will apply glue again and lightly stretch the wet fabric, because foamed vinyl is elastic.
Vinyl wallpaper takes 2 days to dry.
You can quickly and effectively update your interior using polymer stickers. It is easier to install than a large roll cut. Such samples are especially attractive plain walls, and in the nursery even children glue them with pleasure. This wall accent is inexpensive and bright.
Let's consider whether it is possible to glue with PVA glue. This composition dries very quickly, forming folds on the wet canvas. But it can be used in problem areas - near baseboards, radiators, under the windowsill, if combined with wallpaper (1:3).
The problem of how to peel old wallpaper off the wall is simply solved. Another advantage of vinyl canvases is their ease of dismantling: they peel off with a spatula, leaving a surface ready for a new pasting.
Let's consider whether it is possible to glue vinyl wallpaper onto vinyl. At the dacha I encountered a problem: a house made of clay blocks lined with bricks. The old polymer wallpaper was glued tightly; it only came off with a layer of plaster along with clay, forming terrible brown bumps.
It's good that the covering was smooth and not made of foamed vinyl. Therefore, in the question of how to glue vinyl wallpaper onto vinyl wallpaper, I decided simply. I took the advice of the master: unevenness is invisible under the structural layer or wallpaper with small ornaments, and bought these.
Then I did everything according to the instructions outlined above. But with one amendment: the joints of the old wallpaper should not coincide with the newly pasted ones. And everything worked out. And most importantly - it lasts!
So, the advantages of these canvases are obvious: beauty, durability, ease of gluing, and care is a pleasure. Thanks to the step-by-step instructions I described, you now know how to glue vinyl wallpaper on paper or non-woven backing. If you have a comment or question, write it in the comments! But before that, don't forget to watch the video in this article.
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Progress in the field of materials presented a gift - vinyl wallpaper. The well-known PVA glue has been learned to foam and sinter on rolls of paper, while imitating surfaces various materials, including the silks of the imperial palaces. Although vinyl wallpapers have nothing to do with silk, they are often called silk-screened for their specific appearance. The vinyl is actually applied using the tinted dot printing method. After heating, the substance swells, the points merge - the process is completed. Warm stripes are sometimes embossed and rolled under paint rollers. The design can be applied before embossing. The production is not complicated, but the components used are expensive. Palace collections of vinyl trellises can hardly be called budget-friendly. However, vinyls that are properly applied to the wall will last forever.
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Depending on the substrate, wallpapers are divided into:
The first ones are the cheapest, the acrylic on them is foamed, so the substance is easily destroyed even with a fingernail. Non-woven fabric is used as a substrate for denser samples. Vinyl on a fabric base is similar to a sieve, calico. Used where there is a complete imitation of tapestry.
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Based on density, vinyl is divided into two categories:
High-relief ones are produced in wide canvases white with the texture of matting, two-thread, linen canvas, as well as ribbons in the form of plaster decor. After gluing, such reliefs are painted with acrylic paints. Decorative canvases in the form of tiles and brickwork are produced for kitchens and hallways. The service life is limited: rearranging furniture, children, pets, the inability to wash with abrasives are the reasons for the rapid destruction of the layer.
Low-relief washable, not afraid of impacts, do not fade, without unpleasant odor. Their only drawback is the ability to condense steam on themselves. That is, they do not “breathe”. Therefore, they are recommended for rooms and premises with good ventilation.
They produce vinyl in 4 standards: 53 cm, 70 cm, 106 cm and ribbon friezes. All varieties, regardless of the height of the relief, series and manufacturer, are combined with each other. The main thing in the gluing process is to avoid gaps between the canvases. Overlapping vinyl is not glued.
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You will also need a fiberboard board, a table, a stepladder, rags, masking tape, and weights to prevent the canvas from curling. The glue used is methylcellulose CMC or modified starch.
CMC stands for: methylcellulose glue. All its other names are an advertising gimmick. CMC is poured in very small portions (dust) into a bucket of water, mixing thoroughly. Set aside for a few hours and stir again. The liquid should be viscous, like jelly, and envelop the stick without lumps. The jelly-like consistency is the same for all vinyls - heavy, light, high-relief. Very thick glue is diluted with water, but carefully, in small portions, otherwise it may become a watery liquid.
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Another wallpaper adhesive is modified starch. It dries without a trace and does not form whitish streaks. Its price is higher, but the preparation is the same as that of KMC.
PVA glue is added - up to 10% of the total mass - just before gluing to speed up the setting of meter-long prints, but it is not necessary. The excess is thoroughly blotted with rag swabs.
The gloss of vinyl reveals all the unevenness of the wall, so the surface is prepared more carefully than for painting. The chalk is washed off the wall, the old wallpaper is scraped off with a spatula and a knife, after soaking it.
Sometimes you need a lot of water. An oilcloth is placed on the floor on the bars; the flowing water will be collected in an oilcloth ditch. Each time you roll a dampened roller over old wallpaper, it will peel off faster. The washed wall is allowed to dry.
To remove old wallpaper in one large layer, they resort to the following: newspapers are glued onto the old paper print. Let it dry and peel it off.
Scrape off oil paint. Large sinks are sealed with plaster and impregnated with primer. Next - application gypsum mixture"Start". Afterwards the walls are sanded. Before the finishing layer, it is recommended to glue fiberglass canvas. Fiberglass will serve as a flavoring agent during gluing. It also reinforces the finishing layer. All fiberglass glue is the same. The final layer is “Finish” putty.
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By applying a light source to the wall, the dried surfaces are checked for the presence of small cuts and protrusions. After straightening, the surfaces are primed again. The final stage– sizing. The glue prepared in advance is rolled with a roller.
Very old walls are easier (and cheaper) to level with plasterboard. In this case, transverse and longitudinal guides are attached to the wall with a pitch of 1200 mm, the slabs are hung, the screw entry points and the seams are puttied. Reinforcing mesh is not applied along the seam. It is not necessary to apply the final layer of putty mixtures to the drywall, but the slabs are primed and glued in the same way as in the previous case.
Surfaces are measured. Use a level and a pencil to mark the top edge. The highest canvas height in the entire room is set (it can vary). Usually it is 2 m 65 cm +. In the case where the design involves two tiers and a frieze, markings are made along the horizons.
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The ceiling cornice is installed either before or after gluing. In the first case, the junction of the cornice and the canvas is covered with acrylic between two masking tapes. The top of the acrylic is tinted with water-based emulsion (it turns yellow over time). In the second case, the wallpaper protrudes 5 mm above the bottom edge of the plinth, and the top of the wallpaper is covered with polystyrene cornices, having previously been protected from contact with construction protective “painting”!
You need to mark out the entire composition in advance. Particular attention is paid to verticals. Using a level, a vertical is drawn for each canvas, otherwise a “slipped” section can initiate a crook for all subsequent ones.
To properly glue such wallpaper with your own hands, follow the instructions below.
The roll is rolled out, inspected for defects, and the length is cut off in accordance with the marking rectangles. You need to cut in one step, using a backing board, with a blade well secured in the handle. The transverse line for cutting must be strictly perpendicular.
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The cut is placed on the floor, pressing the corners with weights, preventing them from twisting. The glue is rolled with a roller without squeezing in a painting tray. The vinyl lining absorbs a lot, so after the first rolling, they immediately roll it again. It is advisable to lubricate the contours of the canvas with PVA in addition to CMC. The top and bottom are brought to the center. The formed envelope is soaked for 3 – 5 minutes. Unfold it, placing it against the wall. It is advisable to use two people to avoid tearing.
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Before gluing the finished piece of canvas, you need to pay the greatest attention to the top edge. Once it is fixed in accordance with the marking line, the canvas is finally unfolded and its center is fixed by hand. Holding the top edge, they pass over the canvas with a spatula-smoother. Subsequent movements are from the center to the edges. Excess glue is removed with a moistened rag swab, the canvas adheres perfectly. A shoe brush is used. By her in a circular motion align the canvas, check the side edge with the horizontal, if necessary, move the edge back, slightly tighten it. The wet cut is elastic and stretches at a meter thickness of up to 1 cm. Do not touch the moistened wall with nails or sharp objects - it is very vulnerable.
Vertical canvases by wet wall you can't cut it. The groove from the knife will remain, moreover, it can provoke the destruction of the putty. But on a plasterboard board, the canvas can be trimmed - in those places where there are no nests, under self-tapping screws, away from the seams. After drying, the strips are cut close to the floor.
The tape material - friezes - after stretching along the wall, are pulled out. It is difficult to predict their final length. The tape is measured, cut to excess, laid, the border is marked with a pencil and carefully trimmed with scissors.
No water-based adhesive will withstand the temperature difference behind the batteries. You can’t even see behind them: the curtains camouflage you. But it is possible to choose a color and paint it over. To mother-of-pearl suitable for wallpaper acrylic paint with shine: silver, gold, bronze. These compounds are extremely stable. The edges of the vinyl of the batteries are painted on the back side with thick PVA glue and pressed. Hold it, for example, with a mop. Such work can only be carried out near cold radiators.
The housings of sockets and switches are removed before gluing. It goes without saying that the network must be turned off. Dried trellises on rosettes will reveal themselves in relief; they are easy to detect by touch. A cross-shaped hole is made in the center, and the unnecessary one is cut off.
Determining whether the moisture has evaporated or not is simple: you need to touch the wall and ceiling with your palm. The usual drying time for wall materials is a day. IN autumn time The drying period may take up to 2 or 3 days.
After complete drying, check the joints. If the sticking has come off, cover the edge on both sides with masking tape, carefully pull it back, drip PVA glue from a stationery dispenser, press it and dry it with the warmth of your palm.
Good work requires care and strict adherence to technology. But working with vinyls cannot be classified as labor-intensive processes. However preparatory work voluminous and costly.
The question of how to glue vinyl wallpaper increasingly arises among those who have started self-repair, since this type of finishing material has become extremely popular. This increased demand is explained by the widest variety of patterns, reliefs and colors, as well as the technology of wall covering available to everyone, subject, of course, to certain requirements.
However, not many people accurately understand that there are many types of vinyl wallpaper, which can differ radically in structure and textured surface. Therefore, to begin with, it is worth understanding what this material is, what properties it has, and what varieties of it can be found in stores.
Vinyl wallpaper appeared in our area in the seventies of the last century. They were then called “washable”, and they belonged to the category of super-scarce goods. The first wallpaper of this type “did not breathe,” that is, it had almost zero vapor permeability and did not allow air to pass through at all. Over time, technologists from manufacturing companies have made numerous improvements to the structure of this finishing material, and today the assortment of stores offers a wide selection of vinyl wallpapers, which are radically different from their predecessors in their improved qualities and appearance.
Today vinyl wallpapers are produced on paper and non-woven bases. Such a substrate, the main task of which is to ensure the most reliable fixation of wallpaper on the walls, is covered on the front side with a layer of polyvinyl chloride (it is this material that is colloquially called vinyl). Since such finishing is often designed for use in rooms with high humidity, many manufacturers introduce special antifungal and antiseptic components into the composition.
The polyvinyl chloride coating has increased surface strength and excellent resistance to mechanical stress, especially abrasive and abrasive properties. Due to its hydrophobicity, such a coating “reluctantly” retains dirt, which is why some types of vinyl wallpaper are ideally suited for finishing walls in kitchens.
It is the top layer of vinyl wallpaper that has decorative embossing, and thanks to innovative technologies production is capable of imitating some natural and artificial materials. Modern varieties for the most part, they are “breathable” because their coating has a porous structure that is capable of passing vapors without much delay. Thus, the walls do not accumulate moisture, since the possibility of its free evaporation is created. This property of the finishing material allows it to adhere well to surfaces without peeling off due to increased moisture in the room.
At the same time, during the process of washing wallpaper, water and detergents do not penetrate under the coating, but quickly evaporate from their surface, thanks to micropores closed from the outside.
Vinyl wallpaper is becoming an increasingly popular finish due to other advantages over other types of wall coverings in this range. The material has a stable color that does not change its original appearance when exposed to ultraviolet rays. A high-quality and properly glued coating is quite durable and can last for decades until home owners simply get tired of it.
The most important drawback, which, however, is quite justified, is the high price of this material. However, this circumstance in no way reduces the popularity or sales volumes of vinyl wallpaper, since they can transform a room beyond recognition.
A correctly selected wallpaper pattern can visually expand or narrow a room, make the ceiling lower or higher, which is often necessary in small spaces in city apartments.
Vinyl wallpaper is easy to paste and level on surfaces, so they are often used to decorate not only walls, but also ceilings. Ornate designs applied to the canvases can hide the imperfections of the walls at their junctions with the ceiling, since even in apartments of panel houses there are quite often significant differences in this line. Some types of these wallpapers are able to perfectly disguise even small flaws in the walls, due to their thickness, density and applied relief pattern.
vinyl wallpapers
Nowadays, the consumer has the opportunity to choose one of several types of vinyl wallpaper, depending on the room in which they are planned to be used. Each of them is good in its own way if properly glued to prepared surfaces.
Eat important condition– such wallpaper should be pasted only on well-leveled wall surfaces, otherwise all flaws will appear through the coating, spoiling the expected result.
This type of coating is produced by applying a polyvinyl chloride mass to the base, and then pressing the relief under the simultaneous influence of high temperatures.
When gluing vinyl wallpaper, you need to constantly keep in mind some features of this process.
How to calculate the amount of wallpaper?
Before you go to the store for wall finishing material, you should calculate the required quantity. This process is especially important if the wallpaper is to be joined according to the pattern. If you have no idea about the algorithm for such calculations, we recommend that you read the article on our portal, which describes in detail the procedure and all the necessary explanations for it.
To cover walls with vinyl wallpaper, in addition to glue, you will need the following tools:
In order for the wallpaper to stick and look neat on the wall, the surfaces must be carefully prepared. It should not be assumed that this is not particularly important process– it will determine how impressive the coating and the overall appearance of the room will look. In addition, if the walls are good, then the work will be much easier and faster.
The process of preparing walls is not the most pleasant task, as it is quite lengthy and “dirty”, but this should in no case stop homeowners, since the result will please them for many years.
So, having been patient and having prepared all the necessary tools, you can begin this process.
wallpaper glue
If you plan to apply wallpaper to walls that have an old coating - wallpaper, whitewash or paint, then it must be removed. As a rule, this task is not easy - sometimes even regular wallpaper, once glued “conscientiously”, are difficult to separate from surfaces. Therefore, to facilitate this process, you need to use one of several proven methods.
Old pasted wallpaper can be removed with a spatula, but operations are usually carried out first to soften the wallpaper and separate it from the walls as easily as possible.
The first application of the soap solution is to the entire wall, and then it can be applied to the area that will be cleaned first.
In addition to soaking with a solution and a roller, quite often to remove paper sheets, a steam iron or a special device is used through which steam is supplied to the wallpaper under pressure.
Depending on the composition previously used for wallpapering, they can be peeled off easily, immediately in solid sheets, but in other cases you will have to make an effort and work with a spatula, peeling off pieces of different sizes.
When the canvases begin to lag behind the walls, they can be removed in large pieces or also using a spatula.
Some craftsmen prefer to remove only the front layer from two-layer wallpaper, and use the bottom paper layer as the basis for a new coating. This is not recommended, since it is best to inspect the wall for cracks or the appearance of cracks at the junctions of the walls and ceiling. The remaining paper layer will interfere with normal inspection of the surface, and if defects do form underneath it, then over time they can negatively affect the new coating.
If several layers of whitewash have been applied to the wall, and it is cracked in some areas, looks uneven and begins to bubble away from the surface, then it will have to be removed, otherwise the work of decorating the wall with wallpaper will be done in vain.
To remove whitewash, it also needs to be soaked. If the coating layer is thin, then it is washed off the wall with water to which a little vinegar is added. Of course, this coating cannot be removed with one wash, so the process is carried out two to three times, wiping the surface with a dry cloth.
A thin layer of whitewash can also be removed by using a sanding machine with a brush attachment. This method will significantly speed up the work, but when using it, you must have a respirator and safety glasses, since the removed whitewash under the influence of high speeds of the tool will fly apart, and after a few minutes nothing will be visible in the room due to fine white dust.
A thick layer of whitewash will have to be soaked several times until it begins to separate from the wall. Begin soaking from the ceiling or from the area where cracks or shedding have formed on the coating. Water is applied using a roller or a large sponge.
It would seem that it is impossible to remove paint from a wall without a trace, especially if it is applied in a thin layer. However, you can use several simple ways to carry out this process. Moreover, each of the masters can choose the most suitable one for themselves.
Under the influence of such a solvent, the paint begins to melt and separate from any surface, be it concrete, wood or metal. Such solutions are suitable for all paints existing on the market, from automotive to enamel or oil. Using chemical composition, it is necessary to protect your hands with rubber gloves, and your eyes with special glasses. It is advisable to carry out this work by organizing effective ventilation of the room.
If, after removing the decorative coating, a plaster layer is discovered underneath it, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of it. The coating must be smooth, free from cracks, unstable areas and shedding. In order to make sure that it fits securely to the wall, the layer is tapped.
If some areas of the coating produce a hollow sound, it means that the plaster has moved away from the wall. These places are removed to the ground and sealed.
If the damage covers large areas, it is better to remove the plaster completely and apply a new leveling layer.
In the case where cracks, potholes or serious irregularities are found on a cleaned wall, in the presence of, in general, high-quality plaster, they must be repaired or removed. If this is not done in advance, the crack may spread later and can pull the wallpaper along with it.
Detected cracks expand and deepen, then they are cleaned and covered to their full depth with a primer. After this, small gaps are filled with a special repair sealant, and for wider cracks, polyurethane foam can be used. These materials are plastic and will fill the entire cavity well, and after drying they will not crack, unlike putty or cement mortar. After the sealant or foam has hardened, the excess is cut off flush with the overall surface of the wall.
Sometimes you have to resort to complete plastering of the surface
If serious unevenness or peeling is found on the surface, the wall covering will have to be completely renewed. Detailed instructions information on completing this stage of work can be found in a separate article on the portal dedicated to.
Walls that are in good condition and do not require leveling with plaster should be primed after sealing cracks. The primer is applied using a roller with a long handle. In hard-to-reach places and in corners - with a brush. Sometimes one layer of this composition is enough, but most often it is necessary to prime the surface two to three times. The number of layers directly depends on the condition of the wall and the material from which it is built. The primer greatly increases the adhesion of the wall and the materials covering it, and also disinfects its surface, penetrating deep into the pores.
After the primer layers have dried, you can proceed to the final leveling of the walls with putty. The putty layer is designed to level out minor unevenness in the walls and is applied evenly over the entire area.
Walls are brought to perfect condition using putty.
Carrying out the process final leveling requires good skill and knowledge of certain rules. How to make a putty solution or purchase it ready-made - all this can be learned from a special article on our portal.
When the putty dries, it must be sanded well until it is perfectly smooth, otherwise all the unevenness that might remain on the surface will appear through the vinyl wallpaper. For sanding, you will need a smoother, onto which you first attach a sanding mesh, which will remove larger irregularities, and then sandpaper with medium or fine grain, which can bring the smoothness to perfection.
Sanding the walls is done in a counterclockwise circular motion. Work usually starts from the top corner of the wall, gradually moving to another corner of the room, covering the entire surface. The pressure on the trowel should be light, since the putty layer is usually only 2–3 mm thick.
It should be remembered that this process is quite dusty, so it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract and eyes.
The process of preparing the walls is completed with high-quality priming.
Priming the walls before gluing wallpaper on them is mandatory, as it will promote good adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall and also protect internal surfaces from mold in the corners external walls. Therefore, you should not neglect this process. In order to choose the right composition and apply it efficiently to the walls, we recommend that you study the article, which can be found on our portal.
To begin with, it’s worth giving some tips on gluing canvases to walls and preparing the room for this process. These recommendations will be especially useful for those who will be engaged in such finishing for the first time, since the reliability of fixing the paintings on the walls will depend on their implementation.
Marking walls for wallpapering is not as simple as it seems at first glance. But this stage of work is extremely important, and if it is not carried out, the canvases will move away from the vertical line and will have to be peeled off, and then aligned and glued correctly. Remodeling can have a bad effect on the appearance of the wallpaper, so it is best to glue it according to the markings.
Find out, with instructions for novice finishers, from a new article on our portal.
Usually the room has a quadrangular shape with internal corners. Wallpapering should be started from the edge of the window or from the corner located closer to it.
If work will be carried out from a corner, you should immediately check its verticality. In order for the first canvas to be displayed perfectly evenly, it is necessary to retreat from the corner of the room towards the pasting by the width wallpaper minus 20÷30 mm.
non-woven wallpaper
Next, take a plumb line with a colored cord and attach it to the top mark. If there is an assistant, he can hold the cord at the top, and the plumb line falls down, defining a strict vertical. After this, the cord is pulled and released, leaving a straight vertical line on the wall. One side of the first wallpaper sheet will be equal to it. Subsequent sheets will then be joined to it. The other side of the first sheet will be driven into a corner, with a transition to the other wall, and even if the corner is not perfectly vertical, this will not be very noticeable there.
Then, the width of the wallpaper roll is plotted from the vertical marked line on the wall and another line is drawn along the marks. This will mark the boundaries for gluing the next sheet on both sides. There is no particular point in laying out the entire wall - you will just need to regularly monitor the verticality of the pasted canvases so that there is no distortion. True, some finishers prefer to make a reference vertical marking line for it before gluing each sheet.
The wallpaper adhesive solution needs to sit a little, so it needs to be diluted in advance before you start preparing the wallpaper. Making glue is not at all difficult, since the entire procedure is outlined on the packaging. It is enough to pour the required amount of water into the prepared container (a clean plastic bucket is suitable for this) room temperature, and then, stirring continuously, add the contents of the package.
If an adhesive with an indicator is selected, it must purchase pink color. This composition is convenient in that unglued areas will immediately appear on the wall, which will not be noticeable when applying conventional transparent solutions. This quality of the glue will help to avoid air pockets under the pasted canvas, which can form in the remaining dry places on the wall, which will significantly reduce the adhesion of the wallpaper to surfaces. After drying, the indicating shade of the glue disappears.
Vinyl wallpaper can have a clear pattern that requires selection, or one that does not require adjustment. When purchasing wallpaper with a selected pattern, you should take into account that their consumption is much higher, since they leave quite a lot of waste. Wallpaper that does not require adjustment is virtually waste-free and much easier to work with, but on the wall it looks more modest than canvases with rich patterns or even plot compositions. Therefore, more often than not, consumers choose last option finishing.
So, there are several ways to adjust the pattern.
In the first case, the first strip of wallpaper is marked in height, cut and pasted, and a roll is applied to it, if necessary, shifted until the pattern matches. The remaining wallpaper sheets are adjusted in the same way. With such a selection, you should be prepared for the fact that the waste from each roll will be 1000÷1500 mm, which leads to unnecessary costs, since, for example, instead of the required six rolls, you will have to buy seven.
The second method is to take into account the set pitch of the pattern elements (rapport) and select the required shift value between them when combined. Typically, these values - repeat and the required amount of shift - are indicated in pictograms on the packaging label of the roll. To make adjustments, you need to open two rolls at once and, by moving the sheets, determine the most profitable and economical option for matching the ornament.
The third method of selecting a pattern is somewhat different from the first two. To save money, you can try to cut, choosing a combination of ornaments, simultaneously from two rolls or even three rolls at once. For example, odd sheets are cut from the first roll: 1, 3, 5, and even sheets are cut from the second: 2,4, 6. Often, using this selection method, it is fashionable to reduce wallpaper waste from each roll to 200 ÷ 300 mm.
Learn more about what rapport is and how to combine for various types drawing, is described in the article about calculating the number of wallpapers, the link to which is given above.
When cutting a roll, not only the height of the area to be pasted and the displacement of the pattern are taken into account, but also a reserve of the length of the web is created for its finishing trimming. Typically, the amount of such reserve is 50 ÷ 80 mm, with an even distribution when gluing it from above and below.
In the intended place, the canvas is bent, the fold is smoothed and the canvas is cut using scissors, stationery knife or a sharp spatula. You don’t have to bend the sheet, but draw a straight dividing line perpendicular to the edges on it, checking it with a construction square.
To begin with, it is enough to cut the canvas from two to three rolls, and after gluing them, you can move on to cutting the next batch, otherwise it will be easy to get confused. After cutting the canvas on it, it is recommended to immediately mark with a pencil its serial number on the wall and the direction of the sticker - this way it is more convenient to control the correctness of the operations when gluing.
After everything is ready for work, you can move on to the main work - gluing wallpaper to the walls.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to apply glue to the sheet, to the wall or to both surfaces - as required by the technology. Experienced mothers unanimously declare that best results are achieved by mutually coating both the canvas and the wall surface with glue, regardless of the manufacturer’s recommendations. The canvas is laid out on a table or on the floor, previously covered with oilcloth, and glue is applied to it - this process can be done with a roller, brush or sponge. It is very important to coat the edges of the sheet well. |
 | The upper and lower edges of the coated canvas are folded towards its middle (the decorative side of the sheet remains on the outside), and the canvas is carefully removed to the side for impregnation. After this, the second sheet is immediately covered with glue and also folded. Then, if the roll of wallpaper indicates that to apply it to the wall you need to apply glue to the wall, then this action is then performed. It is best to coat the wall using a roller with a long handle - this tool will significantly speed up and facilitate the process. First, the adhesive solution must be applied to the area of the wall intended for two already coated sheets. |
 | Next, you can proceed directly to pasting the wallpaper on the wall. To do this, take the first coated sheet, straighten its upper side, folded towards the middle, and then, with an overlap of approximately 25 - 30 mm relative to the line knocked off at the top of the wall or the glued cornice, apply it to the wall surface. The canvas is secured on top, and then aligned along the beaten vertical line along which it will join with the second coated sheet. |
 | After bringing the canvas along a line from the top to about half the height, they begin to press it against the wall in the middle, and then from it, using a plastic spatula, the sheet is straightened using the herringbone method - from the center to the edges, in which excess glue is removed from under it and air. When they reach the middle, carefully bend the lower folded part of the canvas - it should already perfectly coincide with the vertical line. In the same way, straighten and remove excess glue to the very bottom. The glue squeezed out along the edges is immediately removed with a clean rag or a slightly damp foam sponge. |
 | A more difficult task is to glue and fit the second sheet butt to the first one. First of all, it is aligned precisely along the joint line, while simultaneously matching the pattern of the canvases. |
 | After the excess glue and air have been expelled from under the second sheet, the joint is rolled using a special rubber roller - this process must be carried out while the wallpaper is still wet. The special conical or barrel-shaped shape of the roller promotes optimal attraction of the edges of the wallpaper at the joint - the border becomes almost invisible. |
 | In parallel with gluing the sheets (each separately or, for example, every two or three sheets), the upper and lower edges are trimmed, along the line of the ceiling cornice and along the line of the plinth (or along an arbitrary straight line, which will subsequently be covered by the plinth). |
 | It is better to make a cut with a sharp stationery knife, after first pressing the bottom or top of the canvas with a spatula against the baseboard or cornice, depending on where the cut is made. When making a cut using a spatula, it will turn out smooth and neat. At the same time, you should not skimp on replacement blades - it is best to break off a section of the blade after each blade, so that the cut is guaranteed to be smooth, and the wallpaper does not get wrinkled like an accordion under a dull knife. The cost of blades is not so high that it is unjustifiable to save on this. After trimming, the edges are carefully smoothed, if necessary, lightly coated with glue from the inside. |
 | When decorating walls with wallpaper, beginners often have confusion about how to stick them neatly on the inner and outer corners, as well as in other problem areas. |
 | As we remember, the first sheet was applied to the inner corner by 20÷30 mm The second sheet is glued with an overlap of 10÷20 mm. The sheets where they overlap are pressed against the wall, and excess glue is removed. If thin ones are glued paper wallpaper, you can limit yourself to this, but it won’t work with vinyl. |
 | If vinyl wallpaper is pasted, then, firstly, the overlap will look unsightly, and secondly, the canvases will not stick together reliably. Therefore, in order to achieve an even joint, while the wallpaper is still wet, a straight vertical line is drawn in the middle of the overlap from the ceiling to the floor, and then a through cut is made along it using a sharp knife. After this, the outer cut edge is removed, and then, from under the canvas, the edge cut from the adjacent sheet is pulled out. The next step is to press the joint and then roll it with a rubber roller. |
 | Another case is that during the process of pasting the walls reached the opposite corner, and it is located in such a way that it would seem that the next canvas would have to be bent at the corner. This is never done - the canvas must be divided into two parts along a vertical line. The first strip, which is a continuation of the glued wall, should be equal in width to the distance from the last glued sheet to the corner plus 10 mm. On the wall adjacent to the corner, a vertical line is marked along a plumb line at a distance equal to the width of the second strip. The cut parts are glued to the wall one by one, with the first being aligned with the last pasted canvas, and the second along the already applied vertical line, as it will set the direction for further pasting on this wall. Then the same through cutting is carried out along the overlap, the scraps are removed and the resulting joint is rolled with a roller. |
 | In order not to get confused with the general arrangement of the drawings on the wall in this problem area, they use a little trick. After the canvas is marked with a vertical line to be cut in two, a horizontal strip is glued to the upper part masking tape. This will become a kind of marker - when the paintings overlap, the strip will need to be combined - and the overall arrangement of the drawings on the walls will be perfectly consistent. And small distortions in the corner, due to overlap, will be almost invisible. After gluing and aligning the cut fabric, the strip of tape is carefully removed. |
 | External corners are also considered problematic, so a few words need to be said about them too. The diagram shows how the outer corner should be covered. The canvas pasted on the left wall from the corner is folded onto the right wall by 20÷25 mm. |
 | On top of it, overlapping about 10÷15 mm, a solid canvas is glued, already on the right wall. Then, in the same way as in the process with internal corner, an even cut is made in the middle of the overlap, the cut edges of the canvases are removed, they are joined and rolled with a roller. |
 | Sometimes gluing walls with window and door openings located in them also causes some difficulty. However, it should be noted that this moment of work cannot be called particularly difficult if the procedure is followed. Firstly, it is necessary to take into account that there is no need to cut the canvas that will be located near the door in advance. Secondly, it is taken into account that part of this sheet will remain above the door. Therefore, the canvas begins to be fixed to the surface in the same way as other sheets of material, but it is pressed and smoothed only on the entire part of the wall. |
 | When the sheet is glued to the top and side of the wall from the door, you can begin cutting it and removing the excess fragment. The canvas is cut so that the edges of its remaining part fit onto the frame of the doorway, approximately 20÷25 mm. |
 | The next step is to cut the wallpaper on the corner of the door frame diagonally to 12÷15 mm. |
 | Then, the edges of the canvas above the doorway and located along its vertical edge are additionally coated with glue and pressed against the wall and the end sides of the protruding frame fixed to the door frame. Next, in the same way, the second corner of the doorway is pasted, and only after that a fragment of wallpaper is selected according to the pattern, which will fill the remaining area between them, above the door. |
 | If a window or door is recessed into the wall and you plan to wallpaper their slopes, then the canvas should be on the wall above the opening to the width of the slopes of the opening with a small margin of 10÷20 mm. The wallpaper sheet is fixed with glue on the upper and side parts of the wall from the opening. Then, carefully, using a stationery knife, cuts are made along the upper and lower edges of the opening, but the sheet is not cut off from the side, since it will need to be folded and glued to the slope. |
 | Next, a fragment of wallpaper is selected according to the pattern and size, and then glued to the upper slope of the window or doorway with a bend on the upper part of the wall by 12–15 mm, and from above it is covered with an overlap of wallpaper glued above the window opening. Then it will be possible to make through cuts and ensure high-quality joining of the blades along the resulting joints. |
 | To make the design look neat, all work must be done quickly so that the glue on the canvas does not have time to dry. Therefore, it is best to take all measurements in advance and prepare pieces of wallpaper of the required size. The last step is to cover all remaining unpasted areas above and below the windows with wallpaper fragments. |
 | Heating radiators often cause problems. It's okay - here you need to use prudence, ingenuity and increased accuracy. |
 | Finally, the issue with sockets and switches remained unclear. There are no particular difficulties with this, but compliance with safety rules will be required. Before gluing the fabric on which there will be an outlet or switch, be sure to turn off the electricity supply to the room. The socket is removed, then the canvas is glued in the usual way. Next, it’s easy to feel for the socket in order to make a cross-shaped cutout that does not extend beyond the boundaries of the socket. When the wallpaper has dried, you can remove the resulting “wings” and carefully install the socket in place. After this, you can reconnect the room to the power supply. |
After all these operations, it is necessary to create and maintain optimal mode for drying wallpaper. Drafts are completely eliminated, with households, especially children, “ educational work» so that no one enters closed room until it is completely ready. The use of heaters to artificially accelerate the drying of glue is strictly prohibited - the effect of this is guaranteed to be catastrophic!
Read useful tips optional, in our new article.
We hope that this publication will help site visitors understand the nuances of vinyl wallpaper stickers. Having understood the principle of operation and calculated the required amount of materials, you can go to a hardware store to purchase everything you need. Then, following the instructions and recommendations, boldly, but with great care, begin transforming your apartment or house.
In conclusion, for greater clarity, here is a video with an example of decorating walls with vinyl wallpaper:
When it comes to renovation, the question arises of how and with what to decorate the walls of apartment premises. The most optimal choice Will wallpaper it. It is best to choose vinyl ones because they have a large number of advantages, and also very attractive in appearance. They have a long service life, basically all types of these wallpapers are easy to wash. Some can only be wiped with a damp cloth to remove any resulting dust, while others can be wetted and even cleaned with a sponge. In order to choose exactly the detergents, it is best to consult a competent seller of a specialized store. Or you can inspect the packaging yourself and find identification marks that indicate the degree of resistance to moisture.
Immediately before gluing vinyl wallpaper, difficulties arise, namely, what tools do you need to have in order to easily glue wallpaper, what stages does the gluing process include, how to properly prepare the walls, and much more similar nuances. This article will reveal the answers to these questions.
Before you begin the gluing process itself, you need to make sure that all the tools are available and prepare them so that they are at hand at all times.
You will need the following tools:
With these tools, wallpapering will be easier and more convenient. The main thing is to have them on hand.
There is no need to ignore this point, since preparing the walls is important stage. Thanks to competent and careful preparation of the walls, the wallpaper will last a long time and delight you with its beautiful appearance.
Initially, you need to remove a layer of old wallpaper, if any. After which it is necessary to prime the walls, it is best if this is done using a special primer that is aimed at deep penetration. If suddenly there is no such thing, then diluted adhesive mass will cope with this task. After the walls are primed, they need to be coated with a special product that prevents the occurrence of fungi and the development of microbes.
After time has passed, when all the layers have dried, professionals advise drawing a line the entire height of the wall and using it as a guide for gluing the first strip. You should not focus on the corner of the room, as it may be uneven, which may cause problems with the drawing. To be 100% sure that the drawn line is perfectly straight, you need to use a special building level.
As soon as everything preparatory stages the walls are finished, it is necessary to isolate the premises from current and remove all existing sockets and switches. This will allow the canvas to lie perfectly on the wall surface. There is no need to neglect this and do it as before, just cut a hole for this or that element. This will result in an uneven pattern and all the beauty of the canvas will be lost.
Important! Vinyl wallpaper should always be glued only to well-dried walls. To be sure, you can attach polyethylene to the prepared wall for a day using masking tape, and if after this time moisture has formed on it, this means that the wall requires more time to dry.
The room where finishing work is being carried out must be isolated from the air flow, namely, close all windows and doors tightly, turn off heaters and air conditioners. You can ventilate the room only after the vinyl wallpaper has dried thoroughly.
How to glue vinyl wallpaper on non-woven backing?
Non-woven vinyl wallpaper has a number of features that you should know:
The non-woven base contains a large amount of cellulose, making the fabric denser and heavier. To properly glue such canvases, it is better to use glue for vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven basis. On store shelves it is referred to as vinyl glue. It is produced on the basis of methylcellulose and is completely PVC-free. As a rule, it is considered universal and is suitable for any type of vinyl wallpaper.
If you plan to glue this type of wallpaper in a room with high humidity, then it is better to purchase polyvinyl acetate glue. It will ensure reliable adhesion and long service life.
Wallpaper with non-woven backing has different terms drying. First of all, it depends on the manufacturing method. For example, wallpaper made using hot embossing requires an average temperature of approximately 25 degrees and a humidity of no more than 60% to dry completely. Then you should wait 48 hours until it dries completely.
If the canvas has a decorative finish, then they may require a longer period, in some cases a week.
The key to success in gluing paper-based vinyl wallpaper is the correct adhesive. It is important that its composition is of high quality, this will avoid the formation of bubbles and unevenness. And it will also serve them for a long time. It is best to choose glue from foreign manufacturers. They certainly have a higher price category, but the costs will definitely pay off high quality. It is important that the adhesive mass has the ability to quickly set to the surface, but not instantly.
The glue must contain compounds that are aimed at preventing the formation of mold and fungi.
High-quality glue has the following characteristics:
Before gluing paper-based vinyl wallpaper, you need to carefully level the wall surface.
Divided into types:
The stages of gluing wallpaper with a paper backing are no different from other types of vinyl wallpaper.
How quickly this type of wallpaper dries depends on many factors. First of all, a significant point is the well-dried, prepared surface of the walls. If it was not dry, then the drying time of the wallpaper will be increased several times.
The best option is if the room temperature is approximately 20 degrees and the humidity is no more than 70%. If the temperature is lower and the humidity is high, then you will have to wait quite a long time for the walls to dry. In addition, this can lead to peeling and deformation of the canvas.
Important! It is possible to ventilate and carry out further finishing work only after the coating has completely dried.
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