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For every gardener and gardener there remains topical issue about which plants should be planted nearby. The author of the book “The Melange Vegetable Garden,” Russian agronomist B.V. Bublik and the American farmer D. Jevans, in the book “How to Grow More Vegetables...” described in detail the interaction of various cultivated plants, which are most often grown in Middle lane Russia. Of course, to get a good harvest, it is necessary not only to choose the right plants for adjacent beds, but also to provide them with good care. Then all crops will bear fruit successfully and the harvest will be guaranteed.

➣ They are distinguished by high production of allelopathic substances ash, wormwood and wheatgrass. Where these plants appear, all others, especially cultivated ones, immediately stop growing. You should not leave the listed weeds between the beds or along the perimeter of the garden.

Scientific experiments with labeled atoms have proven that substances secreted by mustard roots enhance the growth of crops such as peas. Legumes, in turn, are released into the soil a large number of nitrogenous substances, which is not acceptable for all plants. However, bush beans grow well next to legumes.

Peas are also a good neighbor for many vegetable crops (tomatoes, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumbers, radishes, turnips, beans) and herbs (mustard). Peas are planted between the rows of these crops. Next to this representative of the Legume family, you can successfully grow lettuce, eggplant, spinach, celery. If you plant cabbage or other cruciferous vegetables next to peas, its roots will be protected from rotting. You can find out which family the most common crops grown in central Russia belong to from the table.

Beans grow well next to cucumbers. They can be planted around cucumber beds. This culture also combines favorably with potatoes, sweet corn, mustard, radishes, radishes, spinach. It is recommended to plant beans between these plants. Oregano, borage, yarrow and rosemary are good neighbors for beans.

Table. Distribution of popular garden and flower plant species by family

End of table.

Representatives of plants of the Liliaceae family (various types of onions and garlic) grow very well next to plants of the Apiaceae family (carrots, radishes, celery, parsley and parsnips) and Cruciferous vegetables (cabbage).

The proximity to tomatoes, lettuce, strawberries, potatoes, cucumbers. Flowers can be planted nearby petunias, chamomile. It is useful to plant savory and chamomile in small quantities around the onion beds.

Various vegetable crops successfully coexist in the beds with white and black radish.

For many plants, spinach is located nearby. Its roots release saponins into the soil, which enhance the growth of many crops (potatoes, tomatoes, beets, beans). Spinach also creates a special microclimate around itself. Its leaves cover the soil and keep it moist and loose. In this regard, spinach is often used as an accompanying plant. It is planted between rows of plants with slower growth, and while the main crops are just sprouting, spinach has time to grow and creates favorable conditions for them.

Near bush beans Root vegetables such as radishes grow well. This proximity has a positive effect on its taste and size, and also protects it from damage by worms and cabbage flies. It is recommended to plant radishes 2 weeks before planting bush beans.

Watercress and nasturtium will also help you grow large radishes.

It will be useful for beans if you plant a little celery nearby. Beans grow well with cucumbers, corn, cabbage, strawberries, pumpkin, beets, carrots. The taste of beans is positively influenced by savory growing nearby.

Good neighbors for vegetable plants sometimes there are herbs and flowers. For example, amaranths have a positive effect on eggplants. You can plant lettuce between the eggplants and basil around them.

For watermelons, nearby areas with potatoes, oats, corn and peas will be useful. For melon, the only good neighbor is radish.

Cabbage has many types. The most popular of them are cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, and kohlrabi. They grow better next to onions (any), beans, herbs (mint, chamomile, sage, dill). Potatoes have a positive effect on the taste of cabbage, so these plants are suitable for mixed planting.

Dill sown between the rows of cabbage significantly improves its taste.

For the most common type of cabbage, white cabbage, the best plants- neighbors are onions, potatoes, lettuce, celery, radishes, bush beans and dill.

Broccoli grows well next to onions, lettuce, beets and celery.

Good neighbors for potatoes in the garden are eggplants, beans, cabbage (especially cauliflower), corn, carrots, beets, lettuce, radishes, beans, horseradish, garlic, and herbs and flowers - amaranths, nasturtium, tansy, coriander, spinach. With mixed planting, potatoes turn out to be more resistant to diseases.

Corn creates shade next to itself in which it grows well cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkin. Bush and climbing corn are favorable neighbors for corn itself. beans, potatoes, soybeans.

Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen, which is very necessary for corn, which, in turn, brings climbing plants useful as a support. Also You can plant tomatoes, lettuce, and sunflowers next to corn.

Pepper goes well with basil. These plants help each other grow.

The place next to the cucumbers is suitable for peas, white and cauliflower, kohlrabi, radishes, onions, lettuce, celery, beets, parsley, sunflowers and beans. Tansy and sow thistle also have a positive effect on cucumbers. Dill sown among cucumbers prolongs their fruiting period, and therefore increases the yield.

For parsnips, a place next to legumes and radishes.

You can plant celery next to the bed tomatoes, cabbage, leeks, bush beans. In the shade of these plants, celery grows more fragrant.

The following crops are planted with lettuce: legumes, carrots, cucumbers and radishes.

Tomatoes have good compatibility in beds next to onions, garlic, carrots, parsley and many flowering plants. If there are nettles next to the tomatoes, they will have a more pronounced taste. Monarda tubulara also contributes to the growth of this favorite vegetable crop and the improvement of its taste characteristics.

To get a good beet harvest, it is useful to plant nearby carrots, cabbage (except cauliflower), radishes, lettuce, parsley and dill.

For a pumpkin you can choose the following neighbors: corn, nasturtiums. A sow thistle growing nearby can be helpful.

The place next to the radish is suitable for carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, beets, tomatoes, pumpkins, and spinach.

Spicy herbs are released into external environment a large number of aromatic substances with volatile properties. Thus, they affect those plants that are planted nearby. Spicy herbs are widely used in cooking and medicine and are often found in gardens among vegetables and berry plants. It is also necessary to select them correctly for joint plantings.

Most vegetables are favorably affected by parsley, borage, lavender, marjoram, hyssop, chervil, chamomile, savory, thyme, sage, and dill growing nearby. Dandelion helps vegetables and apple trees grow. This plant produces environment a substance (ethylene) that accelerates the ripening of fruits.

Many herbs release substances into the environment that have a beneficial effect on other plants (repel pests, disinfect the air, enhance growth). Such plants are called satellite plants. These include anise, basil, mustard leaves, coriander, hyssop, mint, marjoram, lemon balm, cumin, dill.

Some herbs can enhance each other's aromatic properties. For example, if you plant yarrow next to nettles, it will be more fragrant, and if you plant mint, its content will increase. essential oils 2 times.

➣ If you plant oak, birch, linden or poplar next to the garden, then fruit trees will find themselves in comfortable conditions and they will get sick less and bear fruit well. These trees can be placed on personal plot or along the edges of the garden.

Oregano and marjoram have a positive effect on the growth and taste of many cultivated plants.

The snakehead (Turkish mint) creates shade in which cucumbers feel good, which is reflected in their productivity.

Coriander is a good neighbor for anise, cumin and many vegetables. It has a positive effect on the soil structure, and therefore vegetables can be planted next to overwintered coriander without digging up the garden bed.

It is useful to plant hyssop next to grapes; this significantly increases the yield of the latter.

Lovage can be planted anywhere in the garden. It is a useful neighbor for many vegetables and improves their taste and increases resistance to disease.

Mint is found in many gardens. This plant is useful to plant next to tomatoes and cabbage. The harvest will be more abundant and the taste of vegetables will improve. Mint grows well among sorrel. The main thing is to make sure that the mint does not grow too much.

Strawberries grow better next to borage. It is important not to let it grow and trim the bushes in a timely manner. Borage also increases the resistance of other plants to various diseases. It enhances the growth of peas, cabbage, onions, beans, and many herbs.

Parsley has a positive effect on the taste of tomatoes. You can plant it around rose bushes. A good combination is parsley and onions. First, in the spring, parsley seeds are sown in rows, and after 2 weeks, leek seedlings are planted between them. Both crops will grow well.

The following crops grow well next to celery: onions, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, spinach.

A plant such as rue goes well on the site with vegetable and flower crops, as well as fruit trees and bushes.

Dill grows by self-sowing in many gardens. This does not always have a positive effect on the harvest. The roots of this plant secrete substances that are not beneficial to all vegetables. Therefore, it is better to plant dill specifically next to lettuce, cabbage, onions, cucumbers.

Sage is a useful neighbor for all types of cabbage and carrots, as well as strawberries.

Thyme has a beneficial effect on nearby vegetables and improves their taste. It is especially suitable for tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. Savory improves the growth of eggplants.

Some weeds can be useful neighbors for cultivated plants. Japanese farmer-scientist Masanobu Fukuoka, the founder of one of the trends in organic farming, came to the conclusion that there is no need to carry out continuous weeding in fields and gardens or use herbicides. He believes that weeds contribute their share to maintaining soil fertility and balance in biogeocenoses. M. Fukuoka recommends not completely destroying weeds, but periodically mowing them or limiting their growth using mulching. He also advises creating a grass cover in soil gardens from beneficial weeds or green manure. This has become common in Japan and it is extremely rare to find bare soil in gardens there. Insufficient soil moisture in dry areas tree trunk circles around the trees they are left free for watering and care, and the rest of the area in the gardens is planted with ground cover green manure. This principle can also be applied in small private gardens. In large free areas among ground cover plants, you can place beds with cultivated plants (vegetables, herbs). For example, small islands of thistle in the garden promote the growth of onions, corn and tomatoes. The main thing is not to allow this weed to grow.

Various herbs are used for planting between rows in vineyards. Plants useful for grapes additionally protect the soil from being washed away by water during watering and from drying out. Greatest benefit corn brings in grapes to grow. For him good neighbors There are also auxiliary vegetable crops - oilseed radish and radish. Parsley has a healing effect on vineyards. Promote the growth of grapes, peas, onions, cauliflower, watercress, beets. Less significant for increasing grape yields are beans, strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, melon, and dill.

Of the trees and shrubs compatible for grapes are pear, Chinese lemongrass and actinidia. These plants can be planted next to each other. You can also plant grapes and actinidia around a fence or gazebo.

Grape yields can also be increased by: flower plants, for example, asters, geraniums, forget-me-nots, phlox. Irises planted nearby do not bring any benefit, but do not harm this plant either.

From plants you can create around the garden or vegetable garden hedge. At the same time, shrubs for it need to be selected taking into account not only decorativeness or height, but also compatibility with the plants being grown. Hedges made of privet, elderberry, spirea, and rose hips are beautiful and useful for harvest. These shrubs have a healing effect on the garden. In the garden, growing cherries and raspberries next to each other significantly increases the yield. Apple tree and raspberry heal each other. Raspberries accumulate nitrogen and increase the oxygen content in the soil, which turns out to be beneficial for the apple tree. It is recommended to plant these crops close to each other, but make sure that the raspberries do not grow too much.

The combination of barberry with plum or honeysuckle in the garden has a positive effect on the harvest.

Strawberries and some plants grow well under sea buckthorn. medicinal plants(oregano, chamomile). It is useful to plant onions between currant bushes and leave them in the winter.

Hawthorn grows well at a distance of 4 m from cherries. If these trees are planted closer, the hawthorn will end up in the shade and wither away.

Apple and pear trees are good neighbors. A distance of at least 3.5-4 m is maintained between them, otherwise when the trees grow, they will be cramped and the effect will be the opposite.

The dogwood grows safely and bears fruit next to the apricot. You can even plant these plants close to each other and they will still be compatible. Dogwood can grow even with walnut, which is a solitary plant. Next to it, all other cultivated plants grow poorly.

It is permissible to plant plums and cherries at a distance of 5 m from each other. They will bear fruit well. The plum should not be allowed to get between the cherries and the cherries. In such conditions the tree will die.

For strawberries, parsley, bush beans, and spinach located nearby will be useful. You can also plant onions, cabbage, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets and garlic next to it.

If land plot zoned for a garden and vegetable garden, then herbs (anise, basil, lemon balm, coriander, parsley, thyme and tarragon) are planted between fruit trees and vegetable crops.

In order to navigate the choice of cultivated plants for cultivation, as well as the timing of their planting and location on the site, it is recommended to draw a diagram of the garden in advance. This will help to correctly position the beds with different plants, plan mixed plantings, check the compatibility of all plants growing next to each other. Next year, this scheme must be changed according to the rules of crop rotation. To do this, it is necessary to additionally take into account the compatibility of plants with their predecessors.

When selecting plants for adjacent beds, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that some plants are protectors against any diseases or pests (animals, insects, worms).

Plant compatibility can be used to increase overall yield in other ways. Plants for compacted plantings are also selected taking into account the height and volume they occupy. By choosing the right plants, you can make compacted beds.

Plants planted next to each other will not interfere with each other, but, on the contrary, will mutually enhance growth. Caring for them is almost the same, so they grow comfortably in the same bed.

Condensed plantings can be done simultaneously, i.e. sow the bed with selected crops at once, or in stages. You can harvest some crops and plant others in the vacant space. This approach allows not only to grow healthy and well-bearing plants, but also to save land area.

In compacted beds, the main plant and the compacting plant are distinguished. Usually the latter is more different short term achieving technical maturity.

Eggplants, carrots, corn, zucchini, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, beets, and celery are often used as the main crops. Compacting crops are onions, cauliflower and Chinese cabbage, lettuce, radishes, beans, pumpkin, garlic, and dill. Typically compact and compact crops are used as compaction crops. low growing plants. It is important to correctly place the main and compacting crops on the same bed. For example, the central part of the garden bed can be occupied by beets, and radishes, lettuce, and dill can be planted in rows along the edges.

Compaction crops quickly produce a harvest and are removed from the bed, while the main crop continues to grow until the end of summer or autumn.

➣ Berry bushes can be included in hedges. In this case, the protective barrier turns out to be denser and even prickly. From berry bushes Gooseberries, raspberries, and black currants are suitable for this. Next to each other they bear fruit well.

Plants such as tomato and cabbage take up a lot of space in the beds and are combined with small vegetables - onions, carrots, radishes. Fast-growing crops (bok choy, lettuce, spinach) are convenient to plant as cover crops or after harvesting main crops. For long-growing crops (carrots, parsley), it is recommended to plant plants that quickly reach technical ripeness.

Combinations of tomato and pepper with basil are optimal for compacted beds; cabbage and tomatoes with mint; parsley with tomatoes, peas or strawberries; onions, cucumbers, lettuce or cabbage with dill.

Draw up a plan for your garden better in winter in order to promptly grow seedlings of the necessary vegetable and green crops, prepare beds on the site and successfully plant them in the intended places (Fig. 1,2).

Figure 1. Compacted bed with onions, spinach and carrots

In order for plants in the same bed not to interfere with each other’s growth, it is necessary to take into account not only their allelopathic properties. It is not recommended to plant crops belonging to the same species next to each other, as they will consume the same substances from the soil. nutrients. It should be taken into account that tall plants create shade for shorter plants, which is not always useful for the latter. When combined plantings, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the plant root system. If their roots lie at the same level in the soil, then the impact of colins will be more significant, and competition for nutrients and moisture will increase.

Figure 2. Compacted bed with

1.

2.

3.Plants slightly harmful to grapes

4.

Unfortunately, the area of ​​our country houses and personal plots are not so large (more often - 4-6, less often - 10-12 acres of land), so it is not surprising that many owners of such plots also use the inter-row spaces of the vineyards, growing certain crops there. At the same time, not everyone thinks about how this neighborhood affects the “well-being” of the grape bushes. But it turns out that you need to think and know about this. It is known from literary sources that this problem was raised in the writings of scientists Ancient Greece and Rome, where it was celebrated bad influence secretions of laurel, hazel, cabbage and some other plants on the development of grapes and the taste of its berries.
There is even a whole science - allelopathy, which studies the mutual influence of some plants on others through specific organic substances released by their organs into the environment. It has been proven that plants can act on each other through: 1) root secretions; 2) phytoncidal secretions of the vegetative mass; 3) secretions entering the soil with leaf washing; 4) vegetative mass decomposing in the soil. In addition, the roots of plants growing next to the grapes enter into a struggle with its roots for moisture and nutrients. The first extensive studies on the influence of various plants on grape bushes were carried out in Austria. The famous entrepreneur Lenz Moser found that in tinned vineyards, grape bushes react differently to their proximity to one or another plant, and the development of phylloxera and such dangerous pests and diseases as nematodes and viruses is sharply limited. Having studied the influence of a large number of plants on grapes, he divided them into 4 groups: beneficial for grapes, neutral, slightly harmful and antagonists.
1. Plants beneficial for grapes: sour sorrel, sow pea, greater celandine, creeping celandine, neglected mallow, sweet root, yellow mustard, onion, white sedum, garden radish, chard, pansy, cauliflower, radish, garden spinach, table beet, purslane, spring vetch, common groundsel, alfalfa, melon, hare cabbage, sugar beet, aster, ulcer, strawberry, sainfoin, soft wheat, phlox, carrots, primrose, cucumber, fava beans, forget-me-nots, rye, field buckwheat, milkweed, skerda, blood-red geranium, yellow mignonette, fumaria officinalis, prickly tartar, henbane, dill, white cabbage, alfalfa, Iberian, bush beans, watercress, soporific poppy, straight grass, annual bluegrass.
2. Plants neutral for grapes: Alexandrian clover, fennel, silver-white alyssum, garlic, kohlrabi, oats, prickly thistle, field mustard, yellow sedum, pumpkin, spring rape, creeping clover, savoy cabbage, Brussels sprouts.
3. Plants slightly harmful to grapes a: eggplant, St. John's wort, shepherd's purse, salsify, phacelia, bindweed, black elderberry, parsley, cocksfoot, barren brome, timothy, sweet clover, burdock, physalis, meadow clover, potato (late), two-row barley, pepper capsicum, common thyme, coltsfoot, buttercup multiflorum, millet, celery, caraway seeds, fragrant chamomile, crescent alfalfa, spring cinquefoil, chickweed, forest sage.
4. Plants - antagonists of grapes: dandelion, fragrant china, horned butterfly, sunflower, wormwood, clematis, stinging nettle, lanceolate plantain, marigold, meadow grass, blue cornflower, Canadian small petal, hemp, elecampane, lettuce, fescue, cloves, lariat enclosed stem, curly sorrel, leek, creeping wheatgrass, common lumbago, tomatoes, chives, stinging nettle, prostrate speedwell, hairy millet, chicken millet, toadflax, common tansy, annual scilla, wormwood, great plantain, white pigweed , Lezeli's reedweed, Italian ryegrass, horseradish, knotweed, upturned acorn, field creeper, field thistle, green bristle grass, forest lettuce, cypress spurge, wormwood, field bindweed, corn, black nightshade, common cress, common yarrow, white sedum , amphibian knotweed, French ryegrass.
Plants of the first group stimulated growth processes in grapes, ripening of the vine, increased frost resistance, productivity and product quality.
Research conducted in the Republic of Moldova by Yu. N. Novosadyuk allowed him to rank some agricultural plants according to the strength of their activating influence on the development of grapes in the following rows:
- by group of grain crops: corn - rye - oats - wheat;
- by group of vegetable crops: potatoes - radishes - tomato;
- for the group of legumes: beans - peas;
- according to the group of forage crops of the cruciferous family: oilseed radish - rapeseed.
Agricultural crops such as barley, onions, cabbage, and soybeans had a depressing effect on the development of grapes. By the way, there are some differences in the results of the experiments of L. Moser and Yu. N. Novosadyuk. Thus, for the first author, corn is an antagonist to grapes, and for the second, it is a beneficial plant; in the first, barley is a slightly harmful crop for grapes, and in the second, it is an antagonist; in the first, cabbage is considered to be a plant beneficial for grapes, and in the second, it is considered an antagonist.
Interesting information about the compatibility of various plants and grapes, based on 20 years of observations, is reported by T. G. Ivanova from Ulyanovsk
. She divided the list of plants compatible with grapes into 3 groups.
In the 1st group she included plants that grow especially well under grape vines: chufa (ground almonds), lentils, chives, Rhodiola rosea and Iremel.
The 2nd group included plants that can be grown next to grapes: Japanese quince, cordate herbaceous aralia, thick-leaved bergenia, sweet potato, gladioli, sugar peas, wild strawberries (especially vineless varieties), ginseng, Moldavian dragonhead, officinalis hyssop, cauliflower and early, chervil, leuzea safroliform, linaria (lunaria), onion, bear onion (ramson), multi-tiered onion, carrots, nasturtium, cucumbers, Manchurian nut, squash, garden parsley, spring primrose, sweet pepper, peonies, radishes, chamomile, red beets, pumpkin, fragrant dill, beans (any variety and type).
The 3rd group included plants that clearly interfere with the growth and development of grapes, that is, its antagonists: sage (all types), and lofanthus (also all its types).
Thus, by correctly selecting crops for planting between the rows of the vineyard in order to sod it or obtain products, you can not only avoid a decrease in the yield, but even slightly increase it.

Grape plantings have a developed root system and occupy a large area. Many gardeners grow other plants between the rows of grapes to save space. But not everyone knows which crops can be planted and which ones cannot.
Neighborhood with other plants can both harm the planting of grapes and increase the yield of the variety and improve the quality of the berries. In addition to the space they occupy, they need nutrients. Therefore, fertilizers will have to be applied more often.

When planting different crops on the same row, it is necessary to take into account the soil structure, watering regime, age of the bushes and plant compatibility. The ripening of vines is well influenced by cereals and herbaceous plants. Rye, wheat, and oats will be beneficial for grapes. You can plant quinoa and woodlice, they won’t hurt.

If you plant grapes with berries, they will acquire a specific taste. In the best way the proximity to strawberries will be reflected. Then the bunches will be well candied and become larger.

Onions and garlic are excellent neighbors for any vineyard. They will be able to protect the bushes from pests. But some varieties of onions can be harmful to young bushes.

Varieties of radishes, beets and cucumbers grow well between the rows of grapes. Dill and spinach are also grape friendly. Seeding leguminous plants enriches the soil with nitrogen. Some flowers will be useful for grapes. Plantings of currants and raspberries will take root between the rows of grapes. Caring for currants can be combined with pruning grapes in the fall.

Grape antagonists

Summer residents with experience know which plant neighbors conflict with each other and which do not. It is very difficult to detect something wrong; all processes occur unnoticed by the winegrower. Only at the end of the season will it be possible to understand that something is wrong. A real war can break out between root systems to obtain nutrients. By releasing toxins, neighbors can destroy each other and make the soil unsuitable for the development of young shoots.

Among the vegetables that can harm grapes are the following:

• Potato
• Eggplant
• Leek (Pearl Onion)
• Corn
• Pepper (red and capsicum)
• Tomatoes
• Chives

Sorrel and parsley are bad neighbors; they can harm the grapes. Some field plants may also conflict with grapes. It is imperative to get rid of dandelions, nettles, cornflowers, plantain and wormwood. It is better not to plant some varieties of flowers near the vineyard: carnations, clematis and calendula. Sunflowers should also not be located near grapes. If compatibility with other plants is not taken into account, the plantings may die.

Onions next to grapes

Gardeners often grow onions between rows. The main thing is to fertilize the soil and avoid over-watering the planting. It is necessary to loosen the soil every 10 days. It will be possible to harvest in the fall. Harvesting is done when the leaves and neck of the plants have dried. The onions will need to be left for 4-5 days to ripen.

By repeatedly thinning the planting, you can grow onions for greens. Then it can be collected in the summer. Pearl onions and chives should not be planted near the vineyard.

How to plant cucumbers between trellises

Good neighbors for grapes are cucumbers. One of the best varieties for growing together is the Relay variety. It is intended for greenhouses, but can also produce crops in open areas.

First you need to germinate the seeds of this variety. To do this, they are soaked in a piece of gauze and waited for several days. You need to make cones out of paper 5 cm in diameter and 10 cm long. They need to be filled with soil and the sprouted seeds planted there.

The glasses are left in a sunny, warm place. In a few days they will sprout. Plants should be planted in glasses in April. At the end of May they need to be taken out to a shaded place on fresh air so that they can adapt better. In June you can plant plants on permanent place. You can fertilize the soil with manure or compost. Plantings between rows are located every 25-30 cm.

Watering should be regular. Half a bucket for one planting. If you care for it correctly, the plant will begin to curl around the trellises, reaching a height of 2-3 meters. From 10 such plants it will be possible to harvest 1 kg per day. The season can last until the end of August.

Growing strawberries in rows

The soil between the grape bushes has high humidity. Trellis cast a shadow and protect the ground from increased levels of solar radiation. These factors are ideal for growing strawberries.

Since the roots of grapes and strawberries are located on different depths, competition between root systems is minimal. Both plants respond positively to organic fertilizers.

Strawberries can only be planted between young grape bushes. The distance to planting should be more than 50 cm. You need to dig a longitudinal hole in the shape of an inverted trapezoid. This will retain moisture in the soil. If the humidity is too high, the bed should be raised above ground level. It would not hurt to install a drainage system and drip irrigation.

By the third year, you will need to replace the old bed with new plants and re-fertilize. The area of ​​the bed will decrease over time as the grapes grow. The distance to the trellis will increase and be at least 1 meter.

The strawberry patch is the best place for test irrigation. The roots of grapes are deeper than the roots of strawberries. It is important to distribute the water evenly when watering. Strawberries are an excellent neighbor for grapes.

Roses

One of the most terrible diseases that can affect large plots is mildew. Because this fungus is carried by the wind, it can quickly infect and kill large areas vineyards Roses are also susceptible to this disease, but it is less persistent. The rose bush becomes infected one day faster.

In the old days, roses were planted near the grapes, since freely grazing horses could accidentally wander into the plot. However, over time, this tradition lost its relevance and roses were no longer planted as a fence. In the middle of the 19th century, an epidemic of another disease called phylloxera swept through the vineyards. Only the Occitanie vineyard in France survived.

Roses different varieties can become an indicator of not only diseases. They react to high levels of heavy metals in the soil. Although there are fewer diseases in the north than in the south, preventive treatments should still be carried out. In such cases, the rose bush is an ideal neighbor for the grapes.

Agricultural technology for roses and grapes is the same. Covering is also convenient. It is important to choose durable material to protect the grapes for the winter. If you choose one that is too thin, it will break on the rose thorns.

Flowers should be planted at the end of May, when the soil is warm. Seedlings need to be watered every two weeks. Proper pruning will turn your bushes into real works of art.

Weeds

Among the weeds there are both helpful neighbors, and pests. If grape varieties grow on bare soil, the plantings will be severely delayed in development. This is due to the fact that weeds act as green fertilizers. Without them, the soil becomes dry and hardened. After 9-10 years, the plantings may die.

Young bushes do not need to be sown with herbs. Weeds will take away nutrients from them and will not allow them to develop normally. In the third year, you can sow the soil with low-growing grasses. Wild weeds can also be left. But if bluebells or wheatgrass flowers grow in excess, then you need to get rid of them.

Weeds also need to be removed when the bush density is high and the formations are low. If this is not done, the grapes will die from the fungus when the weeds grow to the level of the bunches. You should not cultivate the soil too close to the trunk, as this can lead to damage to the bush.

The best solution is to sow different grass crops between the rows. This will prevent harmful weeds from growing and increase soil fertility. But you can plant herbs only if there is sufficient feeding area for the bushes.

Green manure

Grapes require a special soil structure to grow. The soil is permeated by plants and their roots. When they die, they will leave cavities in the soil. Can fill them root system grapes The above-ground part and dead roots will turn into excellent fertilizer for the vineyard.

Crops that grow quickly and produce a lot of green mass are used as green fertilizers. Cereals and legumes are most suitable. They can be planted in late summer.

Earthworms are the best indicator of soil quality. If you sow a fast-growing variety of grass on green fertilizer and then roll it, an excellent cover will form. A large number of worms will appear in such soil, and the percentage of humus will increase.

Grasses must be constantly mowed. High grass takes away from the grapes nutritional elements which he needs in the spring. After a few years, a humus layer will form from rotted grass clippings. It allows the soil to better absorb and distribute moisture.

Many gardeners are confident that growing grapes is a rather difficult task, accessible to the “chosen few”. We continue to refute this fundamentally incorrect opinion. In the article “Smart Vineyard: Rooting Without Problems,” we learned how to get an excellent annual seedling from cut cuttings in one season. In this article we will talk about how to plant this seedling correctly so that in the next 7-8 years you will not have problems with the bush’s power and its formation. This time we’ll figure out what catarrh is, how to properly maintain the soil in the vineyard, and what plants can and cannot be planted next to grapevine.

So, your cuttings have taken root and are doing great. In the fall, these annual seedlings can be planted in a permanent place, and this should be done in such a way that the vine only needs to be watered and fed two or three times during the summer. Experienced winegrowers believe that a stable and strong vineyard can only be created through the organization of specially designed planting holes or trenches, equipped with deep watering and good drainage. How to do this correctly?

Landing according to Karasev

This method has been tested by many years of experience and provides good development bush with any forming method. Here it is important to follow two basic rules, namely that, firstly, the roots should not be buried more than 40 centimeters - this will facilitate timely warming up and will not slow down the growth of the bush. Secondly, the roots must have a large supply of moisture, which can only be achieved at great depths. This seemingly contradiction can be avoided if the planting pits are properly arranged.

The depth of such a pit should be 70 cm, width - 40 cm, length - 80 cm, it should be extended in the direction from south to north. The dug earth is placed in a certain place, where it is mixed with sand and humus (sand - one bucket, humus - two). Then we make drainage: pour a shovel of ash at the bottom of the hole, on top of which a layer of gravel, crushed stone or expanded clay 10 cm thick is laid (this will be approximately 3.5 buckets).

On the south side of the pit, a piece of pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm is stuck into the gravel - any pipe will do (plastic, asbestos-cement). The length of the pipe should be such that it rises 7-10 cm above the soil surface. After this, various sticks and planks are laid on the gravel so that our drainage does not become covered with earth from the very beginning.

Next, we fill the hole with a 20 cm high layer of earth mixed with sand and humus, and 10-15 cm north of the pipe we make a small mound, place a seedling on it, straightening the roots well, and fill the hole completely with earth. When planting, the seedling must be tilted from the pipe to the center of the hole - this will provide it with good heating. When planting, the two lower buds must be buried in the ground; one or two are left on the surface, depending on the expected formation of the future vine. We will talk in more detail about the formation methods in the following articles.

A bush planted in this way does not need to be fertilized in the first year, you only need to water it, for which every week until mid-summer we pour 1-2 buckets of water into the pipe, depending on the weather conditions. It is easy to water through a pipe, the water does not evaporate, and its consumption is much less. Next year, organic fertilizers and various other fertilizers can be delivered to the roots in the same way.

The top of the pipe must be covered with a brick or a tin can, this will protect it from clogging and any living creatures, such as frogs or toads, getting inside. In subsequent years, it is necessary to water and “feed” the planted bush in this way according to the usual scheme, which we will consider in more detail in the following articles.

Galkin trenches

The organization of special trenches, 70 cm deep, 30-40 cm wide, the length can be arbitrary, will help to enlarge the formation, strengthen the bushes and increase the amount of harvest. Drainage (crushed stone, expanded clay, gravel) 10 cm thick is also poured into the bottom of the trench, and pipes are installed every four meters. To prevent the drainage from swimming, slate or planks are laid on top of it, and this entire “structure” is filled with earth mixed with sand and humus at a ratio of 4:2:1 (earth, humus, sand, respectively).

Grape bushes are planted in ordinary holes on both sides of the trench at a distance of a meter and a half. The effect in this case is even better, since the trench is a huge container with an improved environment common to all roots. The roots of young seedlings very quickly find their way into the trench and develop well there, which helps to increase the power of the bush, which means the amount of harvest also increases.

It’s easy to water such a vineyard—put a hose into the pipe, and water flows all night; the number of necessary waterings over the entire summer ranges from 2 to 4, depending on the weather.

It should be noted that if you have loose soil on your site fertile soils, then drainage is not necessary; you can fill holes or trenches with well-ripened humus.

What is a catarrh and why is it needed (or not needed)

By catarrhization one should understand the removal of the superficial (dew) roots of the grapevine, which are dew collectors. Let's figure out whether it is necessary to carry out catarrhization in your vineyard, and find out its pros and cons.

Experienced winegrowers remove surface roots for the following reasons:

• phylloxera often clings to them;
• they are always damaged by drought;
• If at the end of summer after dry weather the air humidity rises sharply, the surface roots quickly collect moisture, which leads to significant cracking of the berries.

However, experts believe that catarrhization is not always beneficial for grapes:

1. Firstly, removing dew roots always causes wounds and stress for the plant; after cutting off the surface roots, some shoots may droop right before your eyes, since they fed from them. In addition, if the weather is damp and cool, carrying out catarrhosis can contribute to the development of such a dangerous disease as grape cancer. We will talk in more detail about grape medicine in the following articles.
2. Secondly, in areas with heavy compacted soils, surface roots are simply necessary for grapes, especially in places with high groundwater levels. When groundwater rises too high, the deep roots suffer from a lack of oxygen, and the vine survives precisely at the expense of the surface roots, which serve as a buffer, balancing soil water surges.

And in order to prevent surface roots from losing moisture in dry weather, the soil under the bushes needs to be mulched. Mulch conserves water well and helps improve soil structure and increase fertility. This is discussed in more detail in the article “Organic farming: stop destroying the soil by digging and weeding.” Mulched soil absorbs moisture from the air and promotes its fall in the form of dew; accordingly, moisture surges are smoothed out and dew roots are not affected; in addition, with heavy rainfall, cracking of the berries is not observed.

How to properly maintain the soil in a vineyard

From all of the above, we can draw some conclusions about the content of the soil under the grape bushes.

First of all, we organize “smart” holes or trenches to create optimal mode watering and nutrition. Then we mulch the soil under the bushes with any organic materials at hand (straw, sawdust, husks, hay, mown grass). The spaces between the rows can be grassed or beds can be arranged there for growing various vegetables. We’ll talk about what can and cannot be planted near grapes a little later.

In any case, it is best to separate the lawn from the mulch with a border made of anything (boards, bricks, slate). If this is not done, there will never be order in your vineyard - mulch will spill into the rows, and weeds will crawl under the grape bushes.

If you mow the weeds between the rows twice a month, they will quickly disappear, giving way to meadow grasses, which not only are not afraid of mowing, but even better after it, they grow, as a result of which you will have a wonderful lawn between the grapes.

If you decide to organize a vegetable bed between the rows, it is also better to fence it with a border and raise it a little. This is discussed in more detail in the article “Organic farming: how to build smart beds”. However, not all vegetable crops can be grown next to grapevines.

Beneficial and harmful neighbors of grapes

Allelopathy is the science of plants that studies their influence on each other in the process of growing together. We talked about this in the article “Organic farming: intensive planting”.

Regarding grapes, the famous Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser began extensive scientific experiments on this topic back in the forties of the last century. Even then, he noticed that different weeds affect the vine in different ways. For example, shepherd's purse and woodlice help the bushes to develop, while yarrow, tansy, and wormwood weaken the grapes. At first Moser associated the oppression of the bushes with the fact that weeds they take away moisture and nutrition, but then I noticed that even single weeds greatly affect the condition of the grapes. It was noticed that the bushes, weakened by harmful neighbors, froze out in winter along with the roots, while the vine, overgrown with shepherd's purse, legumes or cereals, tolerated the cold normally.

The same can be said about growing various vegetables next to grapes. For example, where soybeans grew, the shoots stretched up to 1.2 meters in length, and freezing was no more than 3%, and if potatoes were planted next to the grapes, the length of the shoots was no more than half a meter, and up to 22% of the bushes froze. Thus, Moser conducted a large number of experiments and tested 174 cultivated and wild plants. The conclusion has become obvious - some crops stimulate the growth of grapes and increase their resistance to cold and disease, while others, on the contrary, inhibit the vine. It should also be noted that bushes growing in clean soil were not always more developed than those under which plants useful for grapes grew.

TO useful plants, most often grown in gardens, include: dill, cucumber, sorrel, peas, onions, radishes, cabbage of any variety, beets, strawberries, melon. Of the flowers, the most useful for grapes are asters, forget-me-nots, phlox, and primrose.

Plants such as: parsley, eggplants, peppers of various varieties, potatoes, sunflowers, tomatoes, various varieties of lettuce, corn, flowers - clematis, marigold (calendula), cornflower, field bindweed should not be planted near grapes.

When organizing a vineyard, you should pay special attention to this and plant only those crops next to the grapes that will contribute to its growth. better growth and development.

So, we now know how to choose the most suitable variety or root a cutting of a vine we like by cutting it at a neighbor’s dacha. We figured out how to properly plant a young bush in order to provide it with nutrition and moisture for a long time. We can now choose how to maintain the soil under the bushes, and we know which plants cannot and which should be planted next to the vine. It should be noted that when planting grapes, it is not at all necessary to organize a specially designated area for this; you can simply plant the bush on a gazebo in the yard - but these are questions related directly to the formation. In the next article we will look in detail at this most difficult procedure for most gardeners. To be continued...

Compatibility of grapes with various plants and crops.

Many people ask the question about the compatibility of grapes with other plants. In Moser's book, plants are ranked according to their usefulness for the vineyard. But different sources give different scores.
I would like to answer this question by describing my personal observations based on growing grapes for many years. Special attention I want to turn on plants antagonists, that is, harmful to grapes. I do not recommend planting them close to grapes, as they greatly inhibit them, first of all, retarding the growth of the plant.

Plants considered beneficial for grapes
Sorrel, carrots, peas, cabbage, cauliflower, radishes, beets, melon, radish, strawberries, cucumber, dill, beans, onions.

Plants to which grapes are neutral
Cherry, pear, plum, apple tree, garlic, pumpkin, lettuce, purslane, melon.

Plants considered mildly harmful to grapes
Parsley, eggplant, potatoes, capsicum, celery, gooseberries.

Plants harmful to grapes
There are many more of them than useful ones - these are our “weeds” - dandelion, wormwood, wheatgrass, plantain, bindweed, nightshade, yarrow, wormwood, nettle and flowers - marigold, clematis, cornflower, as well as lawn grass, horseradish, corn, tomato, sunflower, cut onion, lettuce. Walnuts are particularly harmful plants.

As for the bushes - currants, roses.
Theoretically, this is acceptable, but such phenomena as “aromatic properties” and their influence on the grape plant have not been studied, that is, how the pungent smell of these crops will affect the grapes.
The root system of shrubs is on the surface and at high temperatures air in summer period they have to be watered frequently, and this will affect the development of the grapes, since the surface roots of the bush will actively develop. I assure you that this is not entirely desirable, since grapes can intensively develop surface roots to the detriment of the development of the main ones. This will lead to cracking of the berries during their ripening during summer precipitation. Dew roots will more actively absorb moisture from their upper layers of soil than the main ones.
Another disadvantage of such close proximity will be the overwintering of plants. It is necessary to take into account that the root system of grapes can withstand an average temperature drop of up to -5. When the soil in horizon A freezes in winter, the dew roots will freeze, which will lead to a weakening of the plant as a whole and, in particular, the main roots.

I will answer the question about planting grapes close to fruit trees.
If we plant grapes closer than the crown parameter, then they will most likely suffer from shading (this factor depends on the location of the tree crown in relation to the path of the sun) and tree roots will most likely appear in the grape root zone, which will absorb nutrients necessary for the grapes themselves. Due to this, the root system of the grapes will be impaired. From this it follows that the productivity of the grape bush will decrease.
Then the question arises - does it make sense to plant grapes close to trees?