Probably many people have thought about how to make a goban at home with minimal costs effort, money, and time. There are actually a lot of options; an improvised goban can be made from anything, for example, from a piece of old linoleum, plywood, cardboard. But,
Such gobans do not look very aesthetically pleasing, in addition, they are short-lived. Despite the fact that I am the proud owner of a board purchased back in Soviet times, which, by the way, has been perfectly preserved, I am haunted by the obsession of making a goban myself. Unfortunately, I don’t know when I will have enough time to implement this idea, but I have already decided on the goban manufacturing technology for myself and bring it to your attention.

So, let's start by making a list. necessary tools and materials. I advise you to prepare everything in advance so that you don’t have to run around the apartment looking for the most basic tools and come up with new uses for household items.

Materials and tools required for work:

1. MDF fiberboard.

Dry-process fiberboards: MDF (medium density fiberboard) is a material with a uniform internal structure that allows milling without chipping, hairiness, opening internal pores and grinding with sufficient surface quality of the product. MDF boards are widely used for the manufacture of furniture parts, especially furniture relief facades.

2. Clear varnish good quality. You should not skimp on varnish; it is better to buy a small jar of expensive varnish containing polyurethane.
3. Foam brushes or a small foam roller.
4. Fine “zero” sandpaper.
5. Sharp construction knife.
6. Long metal ruler. A second T-shaped ruler will also help a lot.
7. Pencil, eraser.
8. High-quality permanent black marker with a pen thickness of 0.5mm.
9. Hair dryer.

Work execution project (WPP)

1. Cut out the board required size from our MDF boards. I recommend cutting it out circular saw- then the cuts will be even and smooth. If you plan to cut with a jigsaw, then I must disappoint you - no matter how hard you try, the edges of the board will be uneven. Some craftsmen advise temporarily attaching a guide block to stop the jigsaw, but this option is not suitable for us for two reasons: firstly, we do not want to spoil the board by fastening the block (there will be traces from the screws), and secondly, even if we secure the block - The cut area will still turn out to be uneven, since the stroke of the jigsaw is several millimeters, and on a thin board such an error will be obvious.

2. The cut blank for our goban must be thoroughly sanded. For sanding we use the finest sandpaper “zero”. To avoid removing fibers too much in places where you press with your fingers, secure the sandpaper on a small, even block or on a special sanding block. I like it when the edges of the board are sharp, so we will not process them with a file; for the same reason, we sand the end sides of the workpiece only with a block!

3. Prime the workpiece with the first layer of varnish. I repeat, we don’t skimp on varnish; we make sure that the varnish is polyurethane. For the primer layer, it is advisable to add a little white spirit to the varnish - this will make the varnish more liquid and it will better saturate the board. The varnish should be applied with a foam brush or roller. If you use a regular brush, hairs will inevitably get on the surface of the board. If, when applying varnish, small bubbles form on the surface of the board, this should not scare you; the bubbles, theoretically, should disappear on their own, but I recommend that you dry the board a little after painting with a regular hairdryer.

4. Apply the mesh to the goban blank. To do this, use a sharpened pencil to draw the first line along the entire perimeter of the board (we get a square). Be sure to check the angles - they must be strictly 90 degrees! The formulas proposed by Filin on the forum will help us correctly determine the size of the sides of a square Kido:

Horizontal size: 18 cells wide (d+1mm), plus (0.7d) on each side

Final formula:
L horizontal=18(d+1)+0.7(d+1)+0.7(d+1)=19.4(d+1)

Vertical size: the same as horizontal, but add 3 mm (the goban should be slightly elongated to create the visual effect of an even square)

Final formula:
Lvert.=18(d+3)+0.7(d+3)+0.7(d+3)=19.4(d+3)

d - diameter of the stone (measure with a caliper)

After applying the first line, apply all the rest, carefully monitoring the dimensions. When all the lines are drawn in pencil, we need to outline them with a black marker (pen thickness 0.5mm). Inaccuracies and errors in the lines drawn with a marker are erased with a sharp construction knife. After drawing the lines, do not forget to mark the star points; for this it is best to use a stencil ruler. The diameter of the point should be within 2-3 mm, otherwise it will look too large.

5. After applying the grid and star points with a marker, you must repeat the procedure
apply varnish another 2-3 times, each layer of varnish must be thoroughly dried. Dry the workpiece in a dry, dust-free place.

6. These are approximately the gobans you get if you follow the above instructions:

5 years ago

Since there is a topic about different materials for the stones, I’ll make one more modest contribution. I bought Korean earthenware stones. thickness 9 mm. I won’t go into too much detail about them, since you can play them in Go clubs. In particular, in the go club "Territory". The only thing I would point out is that they are quite durable, although I have heard contrary opinions. When I was going to buy them, one user from the forum said that these stones break easily, and that the percentage of the fight is very high. However, I dropped my stones a lot and at the most different coatings. The most harmless is on the carpet, the most dangerous is on the tiles. And not even a single minor chip. I don’t know how or what my comrade threw them at, but I didn’t encounter any problems with the fight.

I have a set of kaya (board made in handmade by a master, solid), made to order, black bowls, apparently walnut, coated with a specific varnish and basalt stones and original Japanese hamaguri in excellent condition (kept in a warehouse for 15 years, never used).

In terms of execution, almost everything is canonical. The only thing is that the wood is darker than what is usually used for bowls, but I really like it dark wood, that’s why they gave them black thickets. This is convenient because it does not distract your eyes from the board when playing.

The thickness of the stones according to the Japanese metric is 36. Ideal for me, since I don’t like stones that are too thick. I don’t like Chinese stones, they are inconvenient and difficult to remove from the board using a “Japanese finger.” These are convenient because they don’t drive on the board, but they also stand easily.

The downside is that the dents on the board remain longer than is usually the case on the board. Perhaps the manufacturing technology was violated. But it's practically unnoticeable.

The lids crunch cheerfully, the stones ring soothingly, the sound is good when set. I was thinking about making myself a goban with legs, but now I feel like it’s not necessary. This kit is quite good.

Speaking of bowls and how they don’t distract from the game, I found this beauty in the Chinese segment:


Made from wenge. And the price of all this joy, if bought in China, is only 3,000 wooden rubles. If you give somewhere around 3300-3500, they will also go there full set Lentil-shaped yunzi 9 mm thick will be poured. This is how grace comes about. I don’t know about anyone, but I love these types of bowls for their inlay. These can even be bookshelf put as an element of the interior. I wanted to play - I took it off and played. Then I put it in place and beauty.

Above I posted photographs of bowls I had already purchased for a friend with exactly the same (in terms of execution technology) inlay on the lids. This is definitely not a print. Verified. :) For that kind of money and on such a tree, they simply wouldn’t allow themselves to limit themselves to a print.

Good day everyone. I decided to add one more small contribution into this topic by preparing a review of my small Go collection. First, photos of Chinese Go bowls. Then a detailed comparison of two types of yunzi and Chinese agate stones with the well-known earthenware stones. This is in case anyone is interested in Yunzi, but does not have the opportunity, like me, to go to China. I apologize in advance for the mediocre quality of the photos. I hope it turns out to be quite informative.
So, let's start with the cups, because there is not much about them. At the moment I have two pairs of locally made bowls.
1) Wenge bowls:


Rosewood bowls:


All bowls are carved from a single piece of wood, without seams. All are varnished. Moreover, they are made quite well. As expected, all bowls have full inlay, no prints. If you look closely at the drawings, you can find differences between them, which indicates handmade work.
This is what the Chinese do when they want. But even on TaoBao I found such bowls only in one place, and their quantity is limited.

Now let's move on to the stones. I mentioned that this review will cover two types of yunzi. Let me immediately allow myself a small digression about what kind of youths there are. In the Chinese online store TaoBao, I came across 5 types, which can be divided into 2 categories:

1. Types A and B both have a continental shape (flat on one side) and are correspondingly thin. The difference between them is most likely in the shade of the white stones. In their case, I can’t say anything for sure, since I didn’t deal with them.
2. Types C, D and E are lentil-shaped. Type C stones are also called “new yunzi”. The manufacturer claims that they are made according to modern technology. The white stones are a little rough. Thickness within 9 mm. Type D stones are also called "old yunzi". They are said to be made according to old technology. The difference is that white stones resemble bone in color. They are smoother to the touch than S. The thickness of stones of this type is within a centimeter. I also did not hold the last type E in my hands. Judging by the photographs, these stones differ from type D mainly in size (up to 1.2 cm).

Prices for the first three types of yunzi fall within the range of 200 yuan. The price for Yunzi D and E jumps to 700 and 1400 yuan per set, respectively.
Main feature All yunzi have the property of black stones to shine through with an emerald color.

The material for yunzi is supposedly strained glass. This can be judged by the way the black stones shine through. And also on chips. One of my white type C stones broke. I am posting a photo of his insides so that everyone can draw their own conclusions.

Let's start the comparison. From top to bottom: type D yunzi, Korean faience, type C yunzi, agate.

Same order from left to right:

Height and shape. The order is still the same:

A pair of agate stones separately:

As mentioned above, sorry for the quality of the photos. There is nothing better to photograph. I’ll compensate for everything else by summing up the results and verbally describing the pros and cons of yunzi:
Pros:
1) matte surface, so there are no fingerprints.
2) Emerald shade of black stones when exposed to light. From a practical point of view, of course, this is not a factor. But aesthetically it pleases.
3) The strength is about the same as that of earthenware stones from Korea, if not more.
Minuses:
1)Black stones get dirty all the time. White streaks appear on them. Example in the photo:

Presumably they appear from the fact that stones hit each other. Easily erased with a finger, they appear after the stones are back in the bowls. I have no idea how to deal with this.
2) The color of the “white” stones is somewhat dirty, which is also not pleasing in certain lighting conditions.
Another feature that I consider neither a plus nor a minus: yunzi is heavier than Korean earthenware stones.

Personally, for my taste, earthenware stones are better and more practical. They do not need to be constantly washed or wiped with your fingers. White Korean stones look very beautiful. Their set turns out to be very contrasting. Considering the yuan soaring into the sky, they are also cheaper than large yuanzi. However, for a collection, type D yunzi are not bad at all. They are also a pleasure to play in their own way. The number of poorly balanced stones per set is about the same as earthenware stones. Well, or a little more.
All conclusions are purely subjective. If anyone has any questions, please ask. I'll try to answer.

P.S.: The rosewood bowls will probably be offered for sale in two and a half years. However, if anyone wants to purchase them earlier, it is possible in July. Please make arrangements for your purchase in advance.

You're welcome. :) I really hope I helped someone.

When I was playing in one of the local educational buildings, I had to quickly collect stones. As a result, about 8 of them fell one by one and in groups from a height of one and a half meters onto the tile. One of the eight stones split. Everyone else is safe and sound. Several earthenware stones fell from the same height onto the same floor at the airport. And also only one crashed.

There was a need to supplement the previous review. I'll start with the bad. After photographing the rosewood bowls, I put them in the closet for a couple of days. When I took it out again, I discovered that one of the lids had dried out and cracked. The cover did not fall anywhere or hit anything, so mechanical damage is excluded. The wood was simply poorly dried and varnished. Two conclusions:
1) The sale is cancelled, because the bowls are a large share probabilities go back to the sellers.
2) Here you go main reason, at which boards and bowls from China in Russia are sold twice as expensive as those purchased in China: since a considerable share of boards and bowls come with scratches and other defects + new problems appear on the spot, you have to compensate for losses by inflating the price of everything rest. Actually, they told me about this in one go club. Now the statement of Russian sellers has been verified empirically.

Now again about the faience stones. I was able to order some Japanese hamaguri stones here. The stones arrived quickly, very beautiful in appearance, made to the highest standard. I compared them to Korean stones of almost the same size. And I came to the conclusion that the sound when staged is the same and rather depends on the material of the goban, appearance differs only in the presence and absence of stripes. The surface is equally glossy, the color is also almost the same. Conclusion: for the presence of stripes and “canonicity” there is an overpayment of 6 - 10 times. Of course, the size match and alignment of Japanese stones should be better than that of Korean ones. But the difference in price is much higher than the difference in quality. So, personally I think that best ratio Prices and quality of all the considered options ultimately go to Korean stones.
But this is my personal conclusion. :)

P.S. Especially for the “unbelievable, but true” section, I am posting a link to one of the advertisements on the TaoBao website. For sale is a set of Japanese hamaguri and basalt stones. Japanese metric size 50. Thickness 14.6 mm (that is, almost spherical). Price per set is 45,000 yuan. To understand how much it is in rubles at the current exchange rate, multiply the given figure by 6. :)
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.325.TbhplL&id=37639753105

Comrades, help me figure it out. I have already mentioned that on black yunzi stones some kind of incomprehensible white coating. That is, I literally just removed it with my hands, put the stones in a bowl, poured the stones back, the plaque has already appeared again.
Today I received a set of 1 cm thick Korean Go stones. As an experiment, I put 4 black yunzi in a bowl with black earthenware stones. I played with these stones for some time. And I noticed that there was no longer any plaque on those 4 youngsters. I have conducted a similar experiment before. The batch of spare D-type yunzi included one stone of reduced thickness. It fit perfectly into my set of 9mm thick Korean stones. For about a week I played almost exclusively with this set. And I noticed that, again, there was no plaque on the yunzi stone. But if you combine it with other similar stones, plaque inevitably appears.
So we know that yunzi are made of glass. Based on the above observations, we can conclude that when they come into mutual contact, the same plaque appears and that in other cases it is not there. The plaque is removed with a finger movement. Question: what could this be and how to deal with it?

I'll tell you even more, they came to me processed. They were treated with some kind of machine oil. I have seen yunzi in their original form. The talc cannot be removed from them with your finger. Here we are talking about another raid.
When the stones arrived, they smelled quite strongly of machine oil. If I understood correctly, they were supposed to remain in it that way. But I was somehow not pleased with the prospect of washing my hands for half an hour every time. Therefore, I preferred to wash the stones with the product. The oil performed the function of removing talc, so that after a series of manipulations the stones acquired their proper appearance. But instead, that same raid began to appear.

Wash with product? As far as I understand, it would have been better to wipe it thoroughly... It might be worth repeating the process. Alternatively, it's unlikely to get worse. Rinse thoroughly first warm water(in case there are residual products), and then, according to the instructions, treat with oil for sewing machines and wipe dry.

He passed a sheet of paper. Didn't press. The plaque has disappeared. So, the hypothesis disappears. However, she initially did not take into account the experiment with earthenware stones.
In addition, if these were areas where the remaining oil had been washed away, then these stains, after "wiping" them off with your finger, would reappear after a few minutes of lying on the table.

I'll add one more thing for clarity. The white spots on untreated yunzi are talc. If I understand correctly (my experience confirms this), something greasy (be it sunflower or machine oil, it doesn’t matter) removes it. In particular, my first set of yunzi (last semester) came in this form. After washing sunflower oil, and then after washing off the oil with the product, the appearance of the stones became completely different. That is, there is no more talc left. And periodically appearing whitish traces are something completely different.

Opinion from someone with a similar problem on Amazon:

Today I tried to rinse the stones according to the accompanying instructions. Several things I noticed convinced me that the item I received was a returned item.

First, the plastic bag for the black stones is noticeably more worn than the bag for the white stones; then while rinsing the black stones, there was oil from the stones floating on the water, which made believe the stones were oiled once. I also discovered two broken black stones. I didn't mind all these much until the stones have become dry again. After the stones are dry, I see a lot of residue dirts on the black stones! I believe the previous buyer tried to oil them without rinsing them, so the stones got stained with the original powder!

These stains do not seem easy to go, I doubt there is a way to wash them away without side effects. I wonder if these black stones are eligible for replacement, without requiring me to send back the ruined black stones, I don"t like the trouble to repackage and mail them. Maybe I will try to use hot wash them (the broken stones could be useful for experimentation) to see if it works, they will probably never be as good as new stones.

From the white stones which were not ruined by improper oiling, I can see that these stones were actually very nice stones (a four or five star review should have been very reasonable for this item)! What a drink!

TL:DR - Perhaps the problem is due to initially incorrect processing - immediately with oil, without pre-washing (or vice versa?). The talc “sticks” to the stones and appears as it dries.
The author believes that the fact that the stones came to him already processed, which is also incorrect, is evidence of second-hand use.

Stone crafts can be made from a variety of stones: construction stones, ordinary street stones, and sea stones.

They go well with shells, pasta and other materials, but even in pure stone the craft will look original and interesting. And you can take stones to create it different sizes and shapes, and most importantly, colors.

By the way, if you have multi-colored stones, you can combine them so that you don’t even have to paint the craft.

Bottle made of stones

An ordinary wine bottle can be turned into an original decorative item if you decorate it with thin stones.

However, if you have certain skills and sharp tools, existing stones can be cut into thin plates and even shaped.

In addition, multi-colored natural material you don’t even need to paint, but even if you need colors that don’t exist, you can apply paint to the stones and it will turn out beautiful

For example, gouache...

It will not be waterproof, but if the craft will decorate the interior, you can opt for it.

What you will need:

• wine bottle;
• plasticine gray;
• thin plates of stones or voluminous stones;
• beads;
• rhinestones.

So, first we take the bottle and clean it well of dirt and dust. Of course, we remove the label and any layer of glue that might remain on the surface in advance.

You can use crafts made from stones both in the interior and in landscape design. After all, such beauty does not require special effort and wasting money!

Think and win: the game of Go for beginners Grishin Igor Alekseevich

CLASSIC GO BOARD SIZES

Figure 16-1

Diameter of star points (hoshi) on the board: 3–4 mm. Line thickness: 0.7–1.0 mm.

The Go kit comes from an abundance of people and for the people who are many around you. He comes himself, Go brings him to you, If you communicate with Go, Hear his whisper, You pass on his whisper to others...