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» We make an iron door with our own hands. How to make an iron entrance door. Soundproofing a metal door

We make an iron door with our own hands. How to make an iron entrance door. Soundproofing a metal door

Time forces you to save. At the same time, increased demands are placed on home security. Metal doors are an invariable attribute of every city apartment. An alternative to them in terms of reliability is only entrance doors made of solid wood, but they are incredibly expensive and themselves provoke an attacker to break in. Nice door made of metal and installation are also expensive. An alternative is a do-it-yourself metal door.

Of course, a homemade door cannot be a full-fledged analogue of a factory one: in artisanal conditions it is impossible to comply with the manufacturing technology. But opening a metal door is quite difficult, and it will produce the necessary psychological effect.

Drawings “Do it yourself metal door”:


Manufacturing Features

Attention: when measuring an opening, you must proceed from its real perimeter, i.e. Remove all paint and plaster from concrete slopes.

To make metal doors with your own hands you need:

1. Measure the opening.

2. When calculating the dimensions of the box, you need to lay two centimeters on all sides for the installation gaps.

Video “Making fireproof metal doors with your own hands”:

3. A steel corner is suitable for making a box. The recommended width of the shelves is 5 by 2.5 centimeters. The corner needs to be cut into pieces according to the size of the future box.

4. Place the workpieces on flat surface rectangle. Control measurement - along the diagonals: they must be the same length.

Video “How to make steel doors with your own hands”:

5. Weld the door yourself or ask a professional.

6. The canvas frame should be made two centimeters smaller than the box in height and one and a half centimeters in width. For the frame, you can use a corner 4 by 2.5 cm. Weld in the same way as a box.

Video “Making custom metal doors”:

7. Cut a hole for a lock in one of the racks.

8. Weld a loop profile to another rack.

9. Spot weld a steel sheet to the frame with a thickness of at least one and a half millimeters. The sheet should overlap the frame by a centimeter (from the lock side - by one and a half).

Video “Do-it-yourself production of doors”:

11. Weld the sheet.

12. For hinges, a steel rod 2 centimeters thick is suitable. Place bearing balls into the hinge blanks.

13. Mark on the canvas and box the places where the hinges and their mating parts are attached. Weld the hinges.

14. Clean the welds, paint the canvas with protective enamel or powder paint.

16. The inside of the door can be covered with MDF panels.

The metal front door is ready with your own hands. All that's left is the installation.

Installation methods

Attention: often if you install a factory door yourself, you lose the warranty on it.

First way mounting the door leaf into the opening - using mounting plates (if you made the iron entrance door yourself, you can weld them in advance).

1. Three plates (eyes) are installed on each rack. When installing the box, the plates must be adjacent to the wall from the inside (so that they cannot be cut off).

2. Place the box in the opening and measure it vertically. There should be a gap of about two centimeters between the box and the opening.

3. Holes for fastening are drilled through the holes in the plates and anchor bolts are inserted.

4. Foam the installation gaps. Once the foam has hardened, the excess is cut off.

5. Hang the canvas on the hinges.

6. They crash best castles for metal doors.

7. Close the gaps with platbands. If the walls of the opening are wide, they are covered with MDF panels.

Second way: if the walls of the opening are wide and the box is recessed inside.

1. Place the box in the opening and align it vertically. The gaps between the box and the walls are from half a centimeter to a centimeter.

2. Through the mounting holes in the box, drill holes for fastening in the wall of the opening (depth - 10-15 centimeters).

3. Insert anchors and tighten.

Third way: concreting the box.

In this case, a hollow box is used, the inside of which is filled with concrete. Measure the vertical position of the box, fix the box to the wall with anchors and leave until the solution has completely set.

2. Before hanging the canvas, the hinges need to be lubricated. When adjusting the hinges, loosen the fasteners on them.


The role of the front door cannot be overestimated. This is the main barrier to intruders entering the house and at the same time a key detail in the design of the room. The market is saturated similar products, among which buyers choose advantage metal constructions. Unfortunately, the purchase does not always justify the money spent: quality budget options in many cases low, and money for a good product No.

The thought of making it yourself arises. If there welding machine and skills in using it, then there is nothing complicated. You need to figure out how an iron door works, draw a drawing, buy material, components and get down to business. Thoughtful, careful work with careful adherence to the sequence of operations will allow you to create a design that surpasses many industrial designs.

Homemade metal door - advantages and features

Those who fear that it is very difficult to assemble an entrance steel structure at home are exaggerating. Modern equipment and materials allow manufacturing to be completed in a short time. There are several reasons why you should take this step:

  • the choice of material for the product is carried out personally - there is no need to worry about its quality;
  • if the doorway is of non-standard dimensions, individual order too expensive;
  • possible various options finishing, creation of exclusive design;
  • you will have to spend some money, but the total cost is significantly lower than a purchased door.

A private house, especially outside the city, where the owners rarely visit, requires reliable protection from the entry of strangers. A good steel door at the entrance copes with this function. Many products are only menacing in appearance, but opening them is not difficult. The tin is so thin that it lends itself to a can opener. In a structure made with one’s own hands, no one will interfere with the installation of sheets 2–3 mm thick.

Sometimes an additional interior metal door is installed. She is not out of place in a communal apartment, where she sometimes has to live together with dubious characters. In a private house the second entrance structure serves as another barrier for attackers. In addition, an insulated door means additional savings on energy resources. She herself does not let the cold in, and if there is another one at the entrance to the room from the corridor, a warm one is created air gap between them.

The bathhouse is also quite often equipped with a steel entrance door. Outside the city, as a rule, it is a separate building and needs protection from the entry of strangers. The location itself requires such a design to have a heat-insulating layer, otherwise the metal will quickly cool the room. One more nuance: surface finishing is required so that in the cold the hands of a person running out of the bathhouse do not get caught on the iron.

home component steel door - canvas. It is made from a single sheet of metal 2–3 mm thick. They are welded to the door frame from the corners from the entrance side, and on the inside it is made wood paneling. Stiffening ribs are installed in the frame. Filling is placed in the space for thermal insulation: polystyrene foam, mineral wool. Another element is a box, which is made from a rectangular pipe 50x25 mm or larger.

It is important to choose the right hinges. Hidden ones serve as additional protection against burglars and do not damage general view. To ensure that the structure does not warp due to weight, the required amount is installed, depending on its weight. Up to 70 kg, two are enough; if more, 3–4. To make doors easier to move, buy products with bearings or balls.

A mandatory attribute is locks, of which it is customary to install two. One is a safe, has increased resistance to physical impact and burglary tools. The second is a cylinder, it is believed that the key cannot be forged. Another element of protection is the end iron pins, which prevent the door from being removed even when the hinges are cut off.

Getting started - making a box

First, the doorway is measured. If it's too big for standard door 900×2000 mm, the excess is covered with bricks and blocks. When the deviations are not very significant, they leave it, because the design is made by hand, and the parameters do not matter much. There are 1.5–2 cm gaps between the box and the wall on all sides, which are filled with foam.

A drawing is made that serves as a guide for assembly and installation. The dimensions of the frame, door frame, leaf, as well as the location of stiffeners, hinges, and locks are applied to it. Knowing the dimensions of the door, they calculate how many and what length of blanks are required. Industrial products are made of bent profiles, which are produced on a special machine. At home, rectangular pipes 50x25 mm are used.

To ensure that work does not cause inconvenience, it is necessary welding table. Any material is used for manufacturing, even durable ones. wooden beam. The main thing is that the surface is absolutely flat and located in the same plane. It doesn't have to be continuous. They make the strapping - for a standard door 90x200 cm, 1.2 mx1.75 m is enough. 2 more crossbars are inserted along the width, checking the horizontality with a stretched rope.

The door frame, or ludka in carpenter's slang, must ensure that the door is tightly closed. To do this, protruding linings (folds) are installed on the inner perimeter, or on bending machine A special metal profile is made: thickness 1.5 mm. Hinges are installed on one vertical beam, and locks on the other.

Cut long and short pieces, lay them out on a flat surface with the narrow side up. Check the angle, which should be 90°, and the distance between the diagonals. After making sure that they are correct, they grab the parts. You also need to install linings inside the frame where the door leaf will rest. They are made from the same profile, only they are installed flat, or a corner is used.

Correctly calculate the depth to which the seams are welded. It depends on the thickness door leaf. Its plane is closed position should completely slam the box. Add 3–5 mm to the rubber seal.

The contours of the box are already visible, all that remains is to check the correctness of the shape once again and thoroughly scald it. Don't forget that metal heats up. Short sutures are applied in a dotted manner from the center to the sides. During the second pass, the missed areas are boiled. Install the mounting plates on the side. All seams are cleaned with a grinder.

Some people may not like the fact that the pipes have open ends. But they will be hidden in the wall opening when the slope is finished, and the insides will become inaccessible to moisture. You can plug or cut the workpieces at an angle of 45° and weld it that way. It's much more complicated.

How to make a door leaf - the easy way

It is important to create the frame correctly: to ensure rectangular shape, location in one plane. When the production of the box is completed, it is not removed anywhere: it will be used to assemble the door frame. This is very convenient and much simpler: you don’t need to constantly take measurements or draw – everything is done locally. Proposed step-by-step instruction installation is based on this option.

First, the vertical posts are cut, taking into account that a gap of 3 mm is required at the bottom and top. The first is placed on the folds of the box from the hinge side. To ensure the required distance, a 3 mm flux-coated electrode is installed between the ends, sides and shell. Press with clamps and grab in several places. Then it will be trimmed with a grinder.

A similar operation is performed with reverse side. A rectangular hole is first cut in the profile to install the lock. Only a gap of 5 mm is required, so the “five” electrode is used as a template. Then measure the distance between the side posts, cut short cross members and weld them in accessible places.

Next, stiffeners are inserted. There are quite a lot of options for location and quantity. The simplest one is one pipe exactly in the middle along the frame. To achieve greater rigidity, they are supplemented with short corners located in each half.

Next, the clamps are cut off and the frame is scalded in places where there was no access before. Do it gradually, without heating the metal too much, so that it does not lead. Then the seams are cleaned with a grinder, achieving a smooth surface on the outside.

The sheet is marked so that it is 20 mm longer in length and 25 mm longer in width. Place it on a flat surface and place the door frame on it. Place it so that the canvas protrudes by 10 mm at the top, bottom and on the side of the hinges, and by 15 mm where the locks are.

Weld, starting from the middle, moving towards the edges. Make short seams no more than 4 cm on each side alternately, skip 2 cm, which are then welded. Periodically allow the metal to cool. They grab it in several places to the stiffening ribs - it turned out front side canvases. The inner lining is installed after filling the space with heat-insulating material. It does not extend beyond the edges of the frame and is fixed flush.

Complete instructions for making a door are presented in the video.

Installation of external and hidden hinges

Canopies for an iron door are somewhat different from those intended for structures made of other materials; they are not interchangeable. The most common type is with an ordinary ball bearing installed between the hinge parts. It creates an easy move and allows you to hang any weight of canvas. The simple version has a cylindrical shape.

Drip canopies differ only in appearance, but are more convenient for installation. Conventional ones are installed using small plates that provide clearance between the hinges and the door. Steel rods instead, after welding and grinding with a grinder, look more aesthetically pleasing. Drop-shaped ones do not need gaskets; the shape itself provides the necessary clearance.

External hinges with bearings are easy to install; the main requirement is to maintain alignment, otherwise the door will not open well.

  • To install external canopies with your own hands, follow the following sequence:
  • place the door frame horizontally and insert the leaf into it;
  • carefully check the gaps between them;
  • the cavity of the canopies is well filled with lubricant so as not to accidentally catch the halves during welding;
  • they slip in gaskets or turn the drop, ensuring a gap, and weld.

Hidden canopies are fully protected from cutting: the angle grinder will not help intruders. The hinges are securely hidden in the internal cavities when the door is closed. In addition, they have a number of other advantages:

  • aesthetic appearance– do not stand out on the canvas;
  • ease of use - you can adjust the position of the shutters;
  • durable - hidden from atmospheric exposure, no additional maintenance or lubrication is required.

Internal hinges

Installing hidden canopies is much more difficult. First, special rectangular holes are prepared in the door frame and door frame. They weld it inside, which is already inconvenient. You should buy models with small boxes in which hinges are installed. They are pushed into the prepared openings and scalded.

You can install hidden canopies yourself. The basis is ordinary cylindrical hinges with a bearing, additional elements cut from profile pipe. The picture above shows this design when the door is slammed shut. Using the diagram, it is not difficult to make internal hinges for an iron door with your own hands.

Last steps – finishing up to full functionality

All metal is cleaned of possible rust, coated with primer and painted. This also applies outside door leaf, even if it follows decorative finishing other materials. There are many possibilities: MDF, lining, natural wood.

You need to install a lock: watch the video on how to do this.

The location of the lock is marked at the end of the frame with a rectangle. The dimensions are a little larger so that the part fits easily, but not too much, especially in width. Then the wide slot will not overlap mounting plate. Marks are placed on the canvas in places where mounting holes need to be made. Use a drill of a larger diameter, since it is difficult to achieve complete coincidence on both sides.

The lock and handles are inserted, and decorative plates are secured. The ends of the crossbars are coated with paint and the door is covered. There will be marks on the door frame. Grooves are cut along them. To create additional protection to prevent burglary, weld a piece of corner to the frame. For reliability, a thick steel plate under the lock would not hurt.

Before installation internal lining carry out insulation. Foam plastic is usually used, less often mineral wool. Cut into pieces and place in the space of the door leaf without gaps. To seal, all joints between the metal and the heat insulator are blown in polyurethane foam. It is also used to fill the stiffeners through pre-drilled holes.

To seal the junction of the canvas with the box, a rubber seal is installed on the fold. Before purchasing it, measure the perimeter and find out the required length. They also differ in thickness. To decide which one is needed, place a piece of plasticine and close the door.

Finishing remains inside. The choice of material is at your discretion. For a garage and utility rooms, chipboard or galvanized sheet metal is suitable; for a bathhouse, natural wood is suitable. If the door is in an apartment, a more aesthetic cladding is required: MDF panels, laminate, PVC or wooden lining.

The entrance to the home must be reliably protected from penetration uninvited guests, cold and noise. These requirements are fully met welded doors. You can buy them, but if the opening has non-standard dimensions or you want something original, then you should find out how to weld iron doors with your own hands. It is not as difficult as it seems at first glance; availability and minimal skills in handling it are enough.

To cook it yourself iron door you will need to prepare:

  • metal sheet 1.5 - 3 mm thick;
  • a pair of hinges capable of withstanding loads of up to 100 kg;
  • 40×40 and 40×20 mm;
  • accessories (handles, lock, peephole);
  • anchor bolts, mounting foam;
  • polystyrene foam or mineral wool;
  • PVA glue or “Moment” for gluing insulation;
  • finishing material (plywood, OSB, sheet plastic);
  • welding machine, grinder, electric drill with a set of drills and discs;
  • tape measure, square, level;
  • primer, solvent, metal paint, brushes, roller.

We measure and make a sketch

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the walls are made of brick or concrete. It will not be possible to install a welded metal door into an opening made of plasterboard or thick plaster. If the results of measurements of the width and height are more than 1.5 × 2 m, when drawing up the drawing, you should provide for installation on the side or on top door frame additional frame covered with iron. The sketch indicates the dimensions of the door, the height of the hinges, lock and peephole, and the distance between the stiffeners.

Let's start welding: step-by-step process

The correct welding of metal doors depends on the condition of the opening. Therefore, it is puttied, plastered, and adjusted to the size of the door frame indicated in the drawing. The position of the sides is checked by a level.

Assembling the door frame

To be on the safe side, the opening is measured again. If there are no errors, proceed to making the frame:

  1. Blanks are cut from a 40x40 pipe, taking into account that the size of the box is 1.5 cm smaller than the opening. This will avoid difficulties when welding the door.
  2. The workpieces laid out on a flat surface are grabbed together.
  3. Angles, matching diagonal sizes, and horizontal elements are checked.
  4. If there are no distortions, complete the welding. The seams are cleaned with a grinder and a grinding wheel.
  5. For fastening to the wall, three eyes are welded on each side with holes for anchor bolts made from a 40x4 mm metal strip. For reliability, it is also advisable to place a couple of pieces on top and bottom.

We weld the door leaf

  1. Frame elements are cut from a 40×20 pipe so that it is 3 - 5 mm smaller than the door frame on each side.
  2. A stiffening rib is welded vertically, dividing the frame into two equal parts. In each half, two sections of profile pipe are installed horizontally.
  3. The sheet of iron is marked so that it overlaps the box by 1 cm at the top, bottom, on the side of the handle, and at the hinges - 0.5 cm.
  4. Since tightness is not required, the sheathing is welded to the frame in short sections at equal intervals, alternately on each side, so that it does not “lead.”

We weld the hinges

Before installation, the canopies are lubricated with grease or other similar lubricant. This will protect them from damage during welding. Then:

  • the installation location of the canopies is selected at a distance of 20 - 25 cm from the lower and upper edges of the canvas;
  • so that the trim does not touch the door frame when opening, the hinge is installed in a slightly raised position;
  • check that the canopies are in one straight line and scald;
  • the frame is installed in the box, leveled, and the mating parts of the canopies are welded.

We cut in the lock and door handle

To install a lock in the opposite walls of the profile pipe at a height of 1 meter from the floor, two rectangular holes. To make the lock flush, the cutout is made longer on the outside. Two plates are welded into it from the inside, in which threaded holes are made for screwing the lock ears with bolts. On the contrary, a hole is made in the profile pipe of the door frame for the crossbars (tongues) and latches. After fitting, a place for keyhole. It is first drilled and then bored to the desired shape with a round file.

After installation, it is installed from the outside decorative overlay and the lock handle. If the peephole is placed in the center, you will have to drill a vertical stiffener. Therefore, it is more expedient to move it to the side.

We insulate and line the door

Insulate the entrance metal door 40 mm thick foam is best. The use of mineral wool is undesirable, as it absorbs moisture and then shrinks. After 2 years it completely loses its properties.

Rectangles of slightly larger sizes are cut from polystyrene foam. less space between the stiffeners. After gluing them, the remaining cracks are filled with polyurethane foam. The insulation is covered with plywood on top, secured with rivets, and covered with veneer or wallpaper. The cladding is also done with laminated or plastic panels, clapboard

The outside of the doors can also be finished with panels, but it is easier and more reliable to cover them with hammer paint in the following order:

  • the surface is cleaned with a metal brush or an attachment on a grinder;
  • degreasing is carried out with a solvent;
  • a primer corresponding to the type of paint is applied:
  • Using a brush, roller or spray gun, apply 2 - 3 layers of paint.

Installing the door

Installation procedure:

  • The frame installed in the opening is aligned with the level gauge using wooden wedges;
  • holes with a depth of at least 15 cm are drilled through the eyelets in the wall;
  • fastening is carried out with anchor bolts or driving in metal rods with a diameter of at least 12 mm, followed by welding to the eyes;
  • the door leaf is hung.

The gaps between the frame and the slopes are clogged mineral wool and filled with polyurethane foam. After a day, the excess foam is cut off, and a layer of cement-gypsum mortar is applied on top. It will protect the foam from destruction, as it is afraid of light.

When starting to make metal doors with your own hands, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experts on improving their security:

  1. It is better to make the canvas from a single sheet, since even with a slight blow, the composite will be dented at the joint.
  2. The area of ​​the locking device should be covered with an armor plate so that it is impossible to saw through the crossbars.
  3. To protect against drafts, it is recommended to install a rubber seal in the areas where the canvas adjoins the box. It will also eliminate noise when closing the door.
  4. Hinges visible from the outside are easily cut off, so it is recommended to install anti-removal bolts. Usage hidden loops risky, as they have a high probability of jamming.
  5. To increase the level of protection, it is recommended to install two locks on the door: lever and cylinder.

The strongest design is obtained by welding the door from a profile pipe. However, if it is impossible to purchase it, you can use a corner of 40×40 and 50×50 mm. The door manufacturing technology remains the same. If you don’t have enough experience yet, during the work process you need to spare no time checking the ease of movement of the blade at all stages.

Manufacturers of metal doors offer many models with the most different finishes and accessories. But their cost is sometimes quite high. You can make a metal structure with your own hands if you have the material and necessary tools. Next, let's look at how to make a metal door with your own hands, and what is required for this.

To make an iron door with your own hands, you should take care of the material and fittings in advance. If you buy them separately, you can save a lot. When manufacturing a structure, it is important to follow safety regulations and work clearly and accurately.

A do-it-yourself metal entrance door has several important advantages:

  1. The quality of the material used. Some unscrupulous manufacturers try to save on the quality of materials and accessories. If you make the design yourself, you can buy reliable elements.
  2. Uniqueness. You can create a canvas of any size with your own hands, original design doors You can make a door out of wood and metal with your own hands and decorate it glass inserts. There are many solutions. This activity can become a hobby, a creative process.
  3. Price. With home “production” there is no need to overpay for the brand.

The product can also be given required characteristics: make the iron door as warm and durable as possible.

Preparation of the drawing

Before you make a metal door with your own hands, you need to create a drawing of it, taking into account the dimensions of the opening. It will help you calculate everything accurately. Consumables, mark the location of the fittings.

To draw a drawing of a metal door with your own hands, you must first measure the height and width of the opening with a tape measure. Standard sizes the doors are 2 m in height and 90 cm in width. If the opening is too large, you can narrow it by installing a separate block. Upper part Simply sew it up with iron and install a grille. The side part can be made in the form of a blind or opening additional sash. Do not make iron entrance doors with your own hands more than 1.5 meters wide, otherwise the door will be too heavy and the awnings will not support it.

The door frame should be 2 cm smaller in size than the opening. This mounting gap is mandatory. After installing the structure, all cracks are filled with foam.

If creating a drawing of a steel door with your own hands is a difficult process, you can turn to specialists. But this will require additional cash expenditure.

Necessary materials

The most expensive part of the product is the iron. It is necessary for the manufacture of the box and the sash itself. Before making a metal door, it is worth studying the prices and quality of such material.

The general list looks like this:

  1. Pipe with a cross section of 40x20 mm. It takes 20 meters to make a door frame about 2 meters high and 1 meter wide.
  2. Sheet of steel. Optimal thickness– 2-2.5 mm. Dimensions 1x2 meters. If you plan to make your own iron door from a corrugated pipe with a cavity inside, then you can take two sheets of metal of lesser thickness.
  3. Hinges for hanging the sash. The lightest canvases require two loops, but it is better to install three for reliability. After all, a metal door with a seal and lining is quite heavy.
  4. Insulation. If you decide to make an iron entrance door to your house, its presence is mandatory. This can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
  5. Lock (one or two), as well as handles.
  6. Material for decoration. You can sheathe a metal door with wood or upholster it with leatherette.

Also, for a homemade metal entrance door you will need polyurethane foam, a drill and an angle grinder with discs, a welding machine and consumables for it. To paint metal, you should prepare paint, brushes, and rollers.

How to make a door frame?

Before you make an iron door with your own hands, you need to make a frame. It is a metal rectangle, a frame into which the sash will fit.

Its production proceeds according to the following scheme:

  1. Cut the blanks according to the diagram of the metal door: four parts of a pipe 2040 mm long (these are vertical posts), 4 parts along the width of the opening with a small gap (allowance) of 5-6 mm. When cutting, you must maintain an angle of 90 degrees, the edges must be smooth.
  2. Assemble the first rectangle. Join the cuts.
  3. Make linings from the same pipe, placing it flat. There should be a small “protrusion”. Assemble the frame using tacks. During work, it is important to check the diagonals of the rectangle so that there are no distortions.
  4. Weld the box. We must not forget that when welding metal doors, the iron heats up and can lead to it. Therefore, pipes are welded in short sections from the center to the sides. It turns out at first a dotted line. It then needs to be welded so that a solid seam is obtained.
  5. Finish the seams using a grinder.

This completes the manufacturing of the door frame. You can see clearly how to weld an iron door with your own hands in the video. Next, it comes through the canvas itself.

Assembling the door leaf

You can mount a homemade iron door leaf directly on the frame.

The fabric manufacturing process includes several stages:

  1. First you need to cut the workpieces - long and short.
  2. Place the workpiece inside the already assembled box, leaving gaps using clamps. It's good to double check. Weld the pipes of the iron door using four points using welding (then they will be cut off and all traces will be cleaned).
  3. Weld a short blank of an iron door with your own hands with the side parts of the future door.
  4. Weld one long jumper in the center; it will serve as a stiffener.
  5. After this, you can cut off the tacks, weld the frame completely, and thoroughly clean all the seams.
  6. Place the frame on a sheet of metal and weld the metal door with your own hands in 2 cm strokes to the frame. It is necessary to start welding from the center, moving towards the edges. Then attach the side parts. At the very end, weld the lower and upper strips.

The base of the door leaf is ready. As you can see, making an iron entrance door yourself is not so difficult. Next, it is necessary to connect the canvas and the box into a common structure.

Assembling the door structure

Before you insert an iron door into the frame with your own hands, you need to install hinges. They can be of a hidden type. These are the types of canopies that are most often installed in systems industrial production. But it is quite difficult to install them at home on your own; it is better to choose the most ordinary canopies with balls. Drop-shaped products are good because you don’t need to weld anything to them.

This drop is an eccentric; it sets the required distance from the frame to the door. The canopy needs to be pulled apart to form the letter L, place them over the seam between the box and the metal sheet. It remains to be welded. So it is necessary to secure two canopies. After this, you need to check how well the design works.

The third loop must be welded, installed upside down. This is done so that the sash cannot be removed.

Door trim

After metal base will be assembled, it is best to paint the sash. This will protect the metal from corrosion.

Further arrangement of the door:

  1. Based on a do-it-yourself drawing of an iron door made from corrugated pipe, you should install a lock or locks. The best option– two locking mechanisms different types. To do this, you need to drill a hole in the box for the crossbars to enter, and then make a slot for attaching the lock to the canvas.
  2. Attach insulation to a metal sheet. To make a metal door with your own hands, you can take a sheet of foam plastic 4 cm thick. It is light and will not weigh down the door. Plus it's tough and inexpensive material, does not sag over time. It is convenient to attach it to metal with special mounting foam, which does not expand much. All remaining cracks also need to be blown out with foam. You can use suitable glue for fixation.
  3. Sew up the top decorative material: PV film, artificial leather, other materials. Do-it-yourself insulation and finishing of an iron door leaf (video) can be done on one side or on both. This depends on the climatic characteristics of the region. It is important that the material exterior finishing The front door was resistant to moisture and did not fade in the sun. Can be painted steel door with your own hands using special paint.
  4. In order for the sash to fit tightly to the frame, a seal must be installed on it. They are produced with different profiles. The purchase of a specific model depends on the size of the gap. The rubber seal can be self-adhesive, in which case it will not be difficult to install.
  5. Finally, you need to adjust the hinges and lubricate them so that the sash does not creak when opening and closing.

A more complex option is to make an iron door from a corner with a glass insert. It can be decorated and protected with decorative forging. Such products look original. The window must be installed at the stage of cutting the steel sheet. Metal reinforcement is welded along the perimeter of the resulting rectangle or square. Further, all stages of production homemade door made of metal with your own hands are the same as for a blind sash. After the product is assembled and painted, a double-glazed window is inserted into it and a decorative grille is secured.

For smooth closing of the sash, it can be equipped with a closer. It will provide soft, silent sliding.

Making a metal front door with your own hands is a significant savings family budget. It can be equipped with insulation at your discretion, and you can choose high-quality fittings. Metal products are durable, strong, and they reliably protect the premises from intruders. If you still have questions about how to make an iron door with your own hands, the video will help you figure it out.

Although there are many models on sale entrance doors, in some cases suitable option It's quite difficult to choose. Some are not satisfied with the dimensions due to the non-standard opening at the installation site, others are afraid of hidden defects in the product, others are confused high price set.

Handmade production of a metal door, with proper organization process has a number of advantages. For example, you don’t have to worry about the quality of the design; it can be assembled according to any acceptable drawing, and there won’t be any problems with the design - there are many techniques. In addition, the costs of assembling and finishing the block will be minimal.

Preparation stage

Work should begin with dismantling old door and complete cleaning of the opening. Only after a thorough examination of the condition of the base can one conclude whether it is suitable for installing a metal structure or not. It may be necessary to narrow (expand) it in accordance with the required dimensions and further strengthen it. The latter is typical for buildings made of cellular concrete, wood, as well as other materials with a significant degree of wear. Consequently, the necessary technological operations are carried out.

After obtaining a passage in the wall with the correct geometry, you can begin taking measurements. Based on this, a drawing of a metal door is developed. In addition to determining the dimensions of the frame and sash, you should also choose a design diagram. First of all, in which direction is it more convenient to open the canvas, where is it better to install locks, hinges (their number) and fittings (handle, peephole) on it. Sometimes it is advisable to make a “one and a half” version. In it, the small sash is rigidly fixed, but if it is necessary to temporarily expand the opening (for example, when moving large loads), it is easy to open it.

  • The design of a metal door is drawn up taking into account the fact that there should be a small gap (about 15 - 20 mm) between the jamb and the base. It is called editing. It allows, firstly, to correctly align the frame, adjust its position, and secondly, to additionally insulate the opening around the perimeter.
  • The hinges on the door are placed at an equal distance from each other, and their number is determined by the weight of the leaf; With its light weight, two canopies are enough. But in any case, their distance (top and bottom) from the sash cuts is selected to be about 150 mm (for openings of standard height).

Materials and supplies are being prepared. When working with iron, welding will be required. Plus, a hammer drill (electric drill with a chipper) and a grinder. Everything else is normal household tool, square, tape measure. It’s a little more difficult with materials; you’ll have to choose.

  • Corners or profiles (with a side of 4 cm) are suitable for the frame. Here it is worth focusing on the purpose of the structure, the requirements for its stability and the option for further finishing. If it is expected high-quality insulation, increased strength, then a door made of a profile pipe - The best decision. But stiffening ribs can also be made from a corner.
  • The frame covering is made of sheet steel. It is necessary to optimally combine such indicators as the total mass of the canvas and its strength. But in any case, it is not recommended to use metal less than 2 mm thick.
  • Fastening elements. Any iron door, whether homemade or purchased, is fixed in the opening with anchor bolts. The only exception is for models mounted in wooden (frame) buildings. As a rule, when self-installation doors at their entrance, they are attached to special frames or to the base using welding or large hardware.

Everything else - seals, thermal insulation and Decoration Materials, fasteners, fittings - at the discretion of the master.

If you lack experience in making steel doors with your own hands, it is better to limit yourself to overhead hinges. Hidden canopies are much more difficult to install and require a professional approach.

The procedure for manufacturing metal structures

A do-it-yourself iron door, regardless of its diagram and drawing, is assembled according to one algorithm. Initially, individual elements are made.

Box

There are no problems with it, but provided that all measurements and cutting of blanks are made correctly, in strict accordance with the drawn up drawing. Weld individual parts in single design correct geometry is not difficult. You just need to work on a perfectly flat, hard surface and constantly monitor the angles. Once the jamb is assembled, all seams are carefully polished with a diamond disc.

It is mandatory to weld hinges and fastening strips with drilled holes to the box. Using the final details, it is fixed to a wall made of any material.

Door leaf

  • The frame manufacturing technique is absolutely identical.
  • For reinforcement, stiffeners are installed according to the selected pattern.
  • A groove is cut for the lock tongue.
  • Frame sheathing on one side. It is produced by fastening steel sheets by welding, with a slight overlap. In the area of ​​the hinges it is about 5 mm, along the length of the frame it is about 10 - 15. It is recommended to “tack” the cladding with several seams, no more than 40 mm in length. To ensure reliability of fastening, the intervals between adjacent sections are selected within 20.

  • Depending on the design, at this stage of assembling a metal door, the lock fastening elements are installed, the hinges are welded (those parts that are attached to the leaf) and a window for the peephole is cut out.

  • If the sash is supposed to be insulated, then it is immediately laid thermal insulation material; it is placed between the stiffening ribs, which prevents it from sagging under its own weight.

  • All that remains is to weld the second sheet of metal to the wrong side of the frame and also cut a hole in it for the peephole and the lock cylinder.
  • The last thing to do with the sash is to carry out a control check of its geometry and sand all joints, welds and paint with primer to prevent metal corrosion.

If the “one and a half” scheme is chosen, then all technological operations for the small blade are absolutely identical, with the exception of the eye and door lock. But upper and lower stops should be provided for fixation in a stationary position.

Finishing

Making a metal door with your own hands is not all. It must be formatted accordingly. With blocks installed in outbuildings it is quite simple; as a rule, they are painted. But if we're talking about about the door at the entrance to a residential building (apartment), then it is advisable to decorate it. The choice of option is at the discretion of the owner, and some recommendations will help with this.

How you can finish the canvas:

  • Solid materials - multilayer plywood, fiberboard, vinyl plastic, wooden lining, laminate, MDF followed by varnish coating (colorless or with tinting components).
  • Leatherette and leatherette are used to cover the sash.
  • The water door to the apartment can be covered decorative film. Since the impact of atmospheric factors is minimal, this finish will last a long time. And taking into account the low cost and simplicity of design, it is one of the best solutions.

Assembly of the structure

Essentially, it all comes down to hanging the sash, checking its position, the operation of the locks and adjustments (if necessary). All that remains is to install the handle, lock and peephole. If the door design includes crossbars and lower (upper) stops, then you need to make markings.

The sash is covered, and the places for drilling holes are marked on the jamb. After readiness, their coincidence with the fixing elements is checked. This applies to both the main canvas and the additional, small one.

The final “touch” is installing the manufactured door into the opening and lubricating all rubbing parts (which many people forget about). After this, we can state that everything is complete, the work has been completed.

For those who have skills in working with metals and want to get an iron door High Quality at low costs, it self-productionthe best option. Moreover, the drawing, diagram, external finishing It is not the manufacturer who chooses, but the master. This means that the entrance to the house will not only be reliably protected, but also designed in an original way, and the block structure will fit perfectly into the interior of a particular building.