What can give you more pride than a piece of furniture made by yourself? IN Lately People are increasingly realizing that creating the things they need is not only about saving money, but also about creativity and pleasure. So, you can learn how to make furniture facades. This element of furniture includes everything that is in its front part: front panels and ends drawers, doors, etc. As experts note, this is a fairly simple matter, but the result will be the most positive.
To provide stylish appearance and the prestige of the living space, the material for the furniture facade should be chosen before starting work, having carefully studied all its advantages and disadvantages.
No one will argue that without facades, furniture loses not only its functionality, but also its aesthetics. Therefore, at all times, the production of these elements was assigned Special attention. People came up with new materials and over time began to use them to make furniture.
Today, furniture facades can be made from:
Furniture facades are made of: plastic, MDF, aluminum, glass.
Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, wood easily fades when exposed to sun rays, but has a long service life. Glass, on the contrary, is not afraid of the sun, but can break if accidentally hit. In addition, elements made from some materials require special processing and cannot be made at home.
The first thing that catches your eye when entering the kitchen is the furniture fronts. Therefore, depending on the condition they are in, the overall impression of the kitchen as a whole is formed. In order to give the room a well-groomed look, sometimes it is enough to update the furniture.
However, to acquire new furniture too expensive, and sometimes pointless. If the furniture cabinets are durable, then you can significantly save on costs by making new facades for the kitchen with your own hands.
Of course, making doors yourself makes sense only if they look no worse than those made by craftsmen at a furniture factory.
Having decided to update your kitchen yourself, you first need to become familiar with the basic principles of facade design and have the skills to work with carpentry tools. If you already have the necessary skills, then surely, by taking our recommendations into account, you will do everything correctly.
You can change the interior of your kitchen by choosing one of the following methods:
Advantage self-made facades is a significant saving family budget, and the result will be absolutely new kitchen- after all, by changing the facades, you practically update the entire visible part kitchen furniture.
Making kitchen facades with your own hands should begin with the choice of material. Since they have a decorative rather than practical role, the choice of materials can be made based on the capabilities of your wallet.
The most popular materials for kitchen facades are:
Each of the listed materials has its own advantages and disadvantages:
It’s up to you to decide which material, taking into account the listed qualities, is better to choose.
You can make kitchen facades with your own hands entirely from solid wood or edged boards. Let's consider more affordable option production of facades from edged boards.
In addition to a 20 mm thick edged board, stain, varnish, and self-tapping screws, you will need the following tools:
Working with wood requires certain skills and accuracy. The work itself on the implementation of wooden facades should be carried out in several stages:
To make the frame it is taken wooden slats, the width of which must correspond to the measurements taken. Four segments are cut from it, forming the basis of the future frame.
At the ends of each segment manual router grooves are selected to create a tongue-and-groove connection. Then, after the frame is assembled, with it inside A groove is selected around the perimeter necessary for attaching the insert.
After preliminary assembly, the frame must be measured to ensure compliance with the required dimensions. Only after making sure that there are no discrepancies can you continue assembling the facade.
If the parts are made precisely to size, they are disassembled and each part is sanded separately by hand or using a grinder with a grinding disc. Using a grinder will greatly facilitate the work and reduce the time it takes to complete it.
After sanding is completed, the parts of the facade are reassembled into a single whole, fastened with wood glue and tightened with clamps.
The final stage is paintwork. It is quite difficult to apply an even, beautiful layer of paint without a spray gun. It is better to tint a kitchen façade assembled from wood with your own hands using stain to accentuate the wood texture, and then varnish it with furniture varnish.
As an option, the finished door can be pasted over instead of painting. self-adhesive film. Or you can embed decorative glass into a finished and varnished frame instead of a wooden insert.
When the facade is ready, you can equip it with hinges, screw on the fittings and install it in the opening. Making the first façade will take a lot of time until you get the hang of it and get desired result. But you can make each subsequent door much faster.
Among the advantages are:
The main disadvantages of aluminum facades:
Aluminum facades can be solid or framed. Solid doors are made from solid polished aluminum sheets, and the frame door is made of an aluminum prefabricated frame, which is filled with inserts from any suitable materials. The aluminum frame can be disassembled. This allows you to update the kitchen facade by simply changing the filling of the aluminum frames.
Since not every person has carpentry skills, and it is not always possible to carry out complete replacement furniture doors and cornices, then you can update the kitchen facade in simpler ways.
If the doors are in good condition, and only their surfaces require updating, then you can use the old fashioned method and simply paint the furniture in some fashionable color.
It was not difficult to make beautiful doors for kitchen furniture with a complex combined connection at home. Our author was convinced of this from his own experience.
Seventeen years ago I independently collected kitchen furniture from furniture panels 18 mm thick. The door trim was assembled with a counter-profile connection, and the outer edges were processed with a simple rounding.
The frame of the furniture has remained in good condition since then. But the doors have partially fallen into disrepair, and I decided to update them. I wanted to make them paneled, but instead of panels, insert plywood or glass into the frames. It was necessary to make 12 frames for the doors and 18 for front panels drawers. I contacted a specialized company that manufactures kitchen furniture, but it issued a fabulous bill - 250 thousand rubles. So I had to refuse.
There was only one way out - to make the facades yourself.
Operating procedure
I cut blanks for all door frames and drawer front panels to a width of 60 mm from furniture board. I planned to make five doors glazed, in seven others I would use sanded plywood with a thickness of k mm as an insert, and in the front panels - plywood with a thickness of 6 mm.
I decided to fasten the harness using a combined connection. It consists of two elements - a mustache at an angle of D5 degrees on the front side of the frames and a tongue and groove - at an angle of 90 degrees. The connection is created by a mustache beautiful view(the door looks very decent), and also allows you to process the inner edge of the trim with a milling cutter of a complex configuration.
To avoid confusion, I made grooves in all long blanks, and tenons in short ones. I was able to think through a clear sequence of manufacturing stages without unnecessary actions, which speeded up the process. For personal safety, I did not work with parts thinner than 18 mm and shorter than 200 mm.
When working, I used a Metabo TS 254 circular saw. The parallel stop on it moves easily and is firmly fixed on both sides of the table, so it never moved during work. The height of the saw blade can be adjusted from zero to 75 mm. These advantages of the machine make it easier to make tenons. However, it also has a drawback - the poor location of the switch. I constantly had to look for him.
He performed all the work in a workshop located on the loggia of his apartment. At its end I did small table, under which the machine is removed between jobs.
It took me about 40 minutes to make one frame.
1 . I start choosing a groove for inserts (glass and plywood). I pre-prepared the long and short parts of the frames. Saw blade I set it to 6 mm. The distance from the stop to the saw is 50 mm.
2 . Preparation for making a tenon 50 mm long. Only short blanks participate. I keep the height of the disc at 6 mm. The distance from the stop to the saw is h7.5 mm, that is, 50 mm minus 2.5 mm (disk width). Using a miter gauge, I cut short pieces crosswise.
3 . Completion of making the groove for the inserts. Long and short blanks are involved. The distance from the stop to the saw is 12 mm. I gradually raise the saw until the groove is cut completely. The width of the groove was 10 mm, the depth was 6 mm.
4 . I leave the distance from the rip fence to the saw 12 mm. Having attached the part to the disk, I lift it to the bottom edge of the sample.
5 . Making a tenon on short parts. Disc height - 50 mm. From the stop to the saw - 12 mm. I carefully and slowly move the short workpiece along the stop, pressing it against it. (The selection should always be on the left side.)
6 . Short blanks with prepared spikes without a mustache.
7 . Only the long parts of the harnesses are involved. I apply the workpiece to the disk and lift it to the outer edge - 60 mm. I reduce the distance from the stop to the saw by 2.5 mm (by the thickness of the disk).
8 . Preparing tenons on long workpieces. I carefully and calmly move the long pieces along the rip fence several times. I reduce the distance from the stop to the saw by 2.5 mm, then by 1 mm. The width of the spike is 6 mm. (The space for inserts must be on the left side.)
9 . Formation of a mustache over long sections. I turn the angle stop 45 degrees. The distance from the rip fence to the disk is 40 mm. I lower the disk to 5 mm. Moving the long workpiece along the parallel stop, I gradually raise the disk so as to cut out a triangle.
10 . I finally form a groove with two sides - one on the miter side, the other at an angle of 90 degrees.
11 . Formation of a mustache on the tenon of short blanks. The distance from the rip fence to the disk is 40 mm. Disc height - 5 mm. I select the angle of the workpiece, gradually raising the disk until the tip of the tenon fits into the groove of the long piece with a slight effort. Thanks to many back-and-forth movements, I complete the selection of the whisker on the spike.
12 . I assemble the harnesses without glue and check the connections. (In the photo - frames for the front panels of the drawers.)
Processing the inner edge of the straps
Before assembling the bindings using PVA glue, I processed the inner edges of the bindings with an edge cutter of a complex configuration. But there was a small problem here. The edge cutter has a small bearing (guide pin), which, when processing the workpiece, can get into the insertion hole, which will lead to disruption of the milling pattern - and the work will be ruined.
To eliminate accidental cutting of the cutter into the wood, I made a special device - a bed. I made it from a shield 1 m long and 60 mm wide. The profile of the crib mirrors the profile of the harness blank on the back side. Where the harness has a groove for the insert, there is a protrusion of the same size on the crib. A block was glued to the edge of the crib opposite the ledge. The workpiece from the frame lies with the sample down on the ledge and rests against the block. Now the cutter bearing rolls along the outside of the protrusion, and the glued block prevents the workpiece from moving while the router is running.
13 . Bed for milling trim blanks. On the right is a protrusion, on the left is a glued block that serves as a stop.
14 . Processing the inner edge of workpieces with an edge cutter. The workpiece lies as a sample for inserts on the protrusion of the crib and rests against the block glued to the left. An edge cutter with a bearing moves along the outside of the crib projection and processes the inner edge of the workpiece.
15 . Trim parts prepared for assembly. Above - details with front side. Below are parts from the back side (a tenon, a groove at a right angle and a recess for inserts are visible).
All photos from the article
If you prefer classics in the interior, then the kitchen is made from natural wood will be your option. It can be made from solid wood or assembled from individual planks, and at the same time there is a real opportunity to save money by decorating only the facades with wood, and the structure hidden from view can be made from a cheaper material, for example, chipboard.
So you can create indoors cozy atmosphere, which will delight you every day and where you can simply relax.
Today we will figure out how to properly make kitchen wooden facades yourself. It is unlikely that your work will leave your family and friends indifferent.
Most often, larch or coniferous wood is chosen for the manufacture of facades.
If you conduct research on the kitchens offered in retail chains, you will notice that they are usually made from:
Advice: if you are targeting kitchen sets premium class, pay attention to furniture that uses black and mahogany wood for facades, as well as cedar and other wood with a beautiful internal structure.
Please note the following:
To make facades, in addition to natural wood, veneer is often used - thin sheets of wood that are glued to the base. It is usually used to decorate panels - the inner part.
In the photo - very often today you can see a kitchen facade made of MDF wood.
Let us consider below two main groups - facade from:
| One piece wood |
|
| Several parts (paneled) |
|
Advice: if you want to save a lot, buy combined products, which consist of a frame made of natural wood and a filling made of veneered MDF. This combination is often also called an "array".
Below is a list of benefits:
Flaws:
Looking at solid wood facades in specialized magazines, you understand that their cost is very high, so purchase similar models You can not. And no need, you can make them yourself in your workshop. Below are instructions that will help you step by step to get almost the same product, only for a much smaller amount.
The technology is not complicated, so you will quickly master it:
Tip: Before working on the main part, practice on scraps.
You can also apply decorative mouldings. outside, then there is no need to mill the groove.
As can be seen from the example, for making original facade For a solid wood kitchen you only need material and the ability to work with a hand router. In fact, after the first time, you can make almost any option, taking into account the fact that such products have only a classic rectangular shape.
After installation on the cabinet, the solid wood facade will become a real decoration of your kitchen, which you can rightfully be proud of. The video in this article will complement the information on the above topic.
The facade is the face of the kitchen, and its quality completely determines how this room will look. This point should be fully realized when setting yourself the task of making them yourself. You need to understand that you will have to make kitchen facades with your own hands no worse than craftsmen in production. One can say even more - handmade must be high-class, otherwise there is no point in it. Is it just for fun - will it work or not? But this is a waste of money and time. This work must be approached theoretically prepared and savvy in practical skills in using the tool. The last point will have to be mastered on your own.
DIY kitchen facades photo
In order to make really beautiful wooden facades for the kitchen with your own hands, electric jigsaw and woodworking skills will not be enough - at a minimum you will need high-quality and, most importantly, professional, different high accuracy manual milling machine and an equally high-quality and high-precision circular saw. This is, so to speak, minimum required, which you can’t do without - we shouldn’t forget about the so-called auxiliary “small things”, which in fact turn out to be very important. These are all kinds of attachments and disks for tools, wood adhesives, grinding tools, vices, clamps - if all this is not available, then it would be, to say the least, unwise to take on the production of furniture facades from wood.
How to make kitchen facades photo
If we talk about the technology itself for the production of wooden facades from wood, then the process of their production can be presented as follows.
You can see the principle of making a wooden facade with your own hands in this video.
Basically, that's all. It should be understood that the technology described above for solving the question of how to make kitchen facades with your own hands may vary depending on the facade itself and the material used for its manufacture. For example, the inner insert in the frame can be made not from natural wood, but from plywood - it will be painted excellent option, greatly simplifying the work.
Facades from furniture chipboard You can make it yourself in two ways - one is generally quite simple (it will only require you to install the facades), and the second is a little more complicated and involves full-fledged cutting and production of doors for furniture. Let's take a closer look at both of these options. Let's start with the simplest.
If we talk about gluing the ends of chipboard with tape, then this work will not seem difficult. For this purpose, special hot melt adhesive is used. Alternatively, you can purchase edge tape with glue already applied to it - it comes in two types. It is milamine, which is essentially paper and also plastic. Naturally, it is better to give preference to the second option. Such tapes are quite simply glued on using an iron, and the excess tape is simply cut off with a very sharp knife.
Glass, of course good material, which has high aesthetic characteristics, but it is very difficult to work with it on your own, and if we talk about a completely glass facade, then it can be said that it is impossible - here you need special equipment, which you cannot do without. That is why, when approaching the question of how to make glass facades for the kitchen with your own hands, you need to consider only two options.
In principle, this is all, today there are other manufacturing technologies glass facades not available. We could also talk about the glass inserts themselves, but this is a separate topic, and we will cover it in another article.
These are not the only options for solving the question of how to make kitchen facades with your own hands? There are a lot of options, but to implement them you will need necessary equipment. I completely forgot - there is another relatively simple method that allows you to do it yourself kitchen facade. Oddly enough, these are roller shutters that have recently become popular. The principle of manufacturing such facades is very simple - again, you measure inner size cabinet or cabinet and order roller blinds according to them. Next comes only their installation. Such facades are great for wall cabinets, but not for cabinets - this is their drawback.
