14.10.2005, 14:34
Urgently need advice. because it's high time to plant tulips. I have never grown tulips. Somehow I was a little indifferent to them. And only here in England I realized that I was mistaken. For example, red tulips remind me May holidays in Russia and simply evoke nostalgia for the Russian spring. and only here I saw how diverse and beautiful tulips can be and how beautiful they look in compositions in flower beds.
So, I want to plant for the first time. I ordered tulips from J.Parker by mail. It seems like a well-known company, but the bulbs arrived and almost all of them were moldy. I think that they are not healthy, were poorly stored or are sick? Or I'm wrong? :clueless: Who planted such bulbs (maybe only slightly touched by “mould” in places).. Did the tulips come up or not? I'm thinking of returning the bulbs, but I really want to plant these varieties....? :girl2:
14.10.2005, 15:58
I planted tulips many times, including from Parkers, and there were no problems. So, if the bulbs are slightly moldy, wipe them with a dry cloth and leave them in a cool, dry place for several days, the mold will return, send them back, no, then plant them, and it is very difficult to plant them late. a couple of years ago, several black tulip bulbs got lost in my greenhouse; I planted them in February, every single one came out, although in this case, even if they come out in the same year, they don’t bloom, but only the next year. so you definitely have time until December. besides, I’m in the north of the country and if I’m okay with them, then you should be okay too.
14.10.2005, 16:05
14.10.2005, 16:09
I urgently need advice. because it's high time to plant tulips.
In this climate, you still have a couple of months left. you will have time to plant. :)
14.10.2005, 16:13
Why not? :clueless:
14.10.2005, 16:24
normal tulips, if not every year, then every other year, produce little dolls - smaller bulbs next to the big mother: gy: . Dig it out carefully, divide what you need back into the ground, keep what you want to send in a cool, dry place, so that when the peel becomes dry like an onion, send it to your mother, wrapped in something like a net from under the same onion and piercing the box itself in several places so that they can breathe.
14.10.2005, 16:53
14.10.2005, 17:16
You can :) I sent it to my mother more than once by regular parcel.
14.10.2005, 17:20
But there is no guarantee that they will survive our climate...:)
They will survive. My mother actually lives in the south of Russia on the Sea of Azov, but there, too, there are frosts down to -20. I sent a lot of things: tulips, daffodils, crocuses and much more, everything took root and bloomed. :hb15:
14.10.2005, 17:24
So, I want to plant for the first time. I ordered tulips from J.Parker by mail. It seems like a well-known company, but the bulbs arrived and almost all of them were moldy. I think that they are not healthy, were poorly stored or are sick? Or I'm wrong? :clueless: Who planted such bulbs (maybe only slightly touched by “mould” in places).. Did the tulips come up or not? I'm thinking of returning the bulbs, but I really want to plant these varieties....? :girl2:
I once planted moldy tulips, but they didn’t come up, only a couple, but they didn’t bloom. So I don’t take any more risks with moldy ones. :isee:
14.10.2005, 22:02
Oh, what a useful section, now I’m going to be a maniac(?) here!!! :shy67:
I buy my bulbs from http://www.blomsbulbs.com, they currently have spring-blooming bulbs.
And in the spring they have a collection of summer bulbs and simply rare plants.
Lilies are amazing!
And I would send the moldy bulbs back, having first discussed with them what, how and why. Since a sick bulb = poor quality flowering and a lot of suffering. It depends on what, but the soil can become infected, so next year you will have to shovel everything and add new compost.
Andrey, tulips vary in terms of flowering time, but the aroma of tulips is so pleasant that it’s just a fairy tale. But not all of them are fragrant. :girl2:
14.10.2005, 22:21
thank you, but for some reason I thought it was quarantine and all that... :shy67:
14.10.2005, 22:33
14.10.2005, 22:47
And I would send the moldy bulbs back, having first discussed with them what, how and why. Since a sick bulb = poor quality flowering and a lot of suffering. It depends on what, but the soil can become infected, so next year you will have to shovel everything and add new compost.
But, in general, yes, you can use potassium permanganate as a weak solvent if you have your own bulbs, not store-bought ones.
:
I also think, probably not to risk it. Thanks for the site, it will be useful.
I'm also an interesting site
http://www.skygarden.ru/texts/tulips_agro.html and it tells a lot of interesting things about tulips and viral variegation (the most dangerous disease for tulips). Perhaps that’s why it’s better not to take risks with moldy bulbs. It's a pity. :girl2:
15.10.2005, 10:38
Oh, Thanks a lot everyone for the answers, very interesting and helpful information, I will try. :hb15:
As I understand it, England has a mild climate, and the bulbs can be left for the summer and not dug up, or is it better to dig them up? How are you doing? :clueless:
Our partner from Holland sent a Christmas present - boxes with tulip bulbs! I got the Tulipa Yokohama. They look great. It says on the box - Never plant tulips in the same location two years in a row; vary the location next year. Plant in groups for best results.
15.10.2005, 11:18
And when I planted all my bulbous flowers, I never dug them up again. We have such terrible soil in our garden, all clay and stones. Planting something every time is torture. the other day (just laughing) I couldn’t pull a carrot out of the ground :).
15.10.2005, 15:40
Our partner from Holland sent a Christmas present - boxes with tulip bulbs! I got the Tulipa Yokohama. They look great. It says on the box - Never plant tulips in the same location two years in a row; vary the location next year. Plant in groups for best results.
They sent tulips last year too - we have a lot of them in our garden!
Are these the yellow ones with sharp petals? :)
15.10.2005, 15:43
They will survive. My mother actually lives in the south of Russia on the Sea of Azov, but there, too, there are frosts down to -20. I sent a lot of things: tulips, daffodils, crocuses and much more, everything took root and bloomed. :hb15:
My mother had an unsuccessful experience (central Ukraine) - half rotted, the other sprouted, but they were short and not all bloomed. This year something happened, but not much either.
But the hyacinths were in full bloom... And not only the store-bought ones, but also those that she picked in my garden, almost half-empty bulbs.
15.10.2005, 16:41
16.10.2005, 19:37
Oh, thank you very much everyone for the answers, very interesting and useful information, I will try it. :hb15:
As I understand it, England has a mild climate, and the bulbs can be left for the summer and not dug up, or is it better to dig them up? How are you doing? :clueless:
If you don’t dig it up, there will be more flowers in number, but smaller in size. And they will become smaller and smaller every year. That's why I try to dig it up every 3 years.
16.10.2005, 20:09
16.10.2005, 20:40
my tulip
16.10.2005, 20:41
How do I find out what color, I bought it and it was supposed to be all red, but when they came out it turned out that half were yellow.
That's so beautiful. It is usually written on the packaging. What variety is this? Very unusual.
16.10.2005, 20:51
That's so beautiful. It is usually written on the packaging. What variety is this? Very unusual.
It was written on the package that all were red, but half of them grew yellow.
16.10.2005, 20:55
It was written on the package that all were red, but half of them grew yellow.
I brought a lot from Amsterdam, but this year they started to come out very early, somewhere in the feral, and in March there was strong wind and broke half of it. If next year they grow successfully, I’ll show you there even more beautiful ones.
Will wait. :)
16.10.2005, 21:54
16.10.2005, 22:00
Forest, Thank you for posting your photos on this site, it’s immediately more interesting to read. When spring comes, I will also show something. if anything happens.. :D
16.10.2005, 23:20
Oh, like Forest, good, spacious. Is there a forested area opposite you? (I thought so, because there are no houses visible on the opposite side) And between the tulips there are roses? And I also see my favorite cherry. Unfortunately, I don't have room for it. :shy67: And so, I really like it.
Yes, these are roses, as soon as the tulips start to emerge, I trim the roses.
While the tulips fade, the roses grow up. But opposite us is just a plot, it belongs to everyone here. A gardener comes to us to clean it up, we pay him everything once a year.
17.10.2005, 21:55
I haven’t planted any tulips in the last three-plus years, I’ve never dug them up, and this is in the north of Scotland. also with all the bulbs, with the exception of dahlia tubers - they die from frost. I, like the daffodils, will dig them up and divide them every five years, maybe 4 if it’s very crowded. Last winter I divided my daffodils, as they had grown very densely. I don't think it's worth bothering tulips every year if they're in the ground. It’s easier in pots, but then they produce fewer baby bulbs.
17.10.2005, 22:16
Have you grown gladioli? All the books advise digging up the bulbs for the winter? Is it worth the trouble or do they cope with the local climate calmly?
My gladioli survive the winter (as I already said, I’m lazy, I don’t replant anything).
17.10.2005, 22:26
I’m disappointed in tulips and daffodils, I have a lot of them, while they’re in bloom - the beauty is indescribable, they’ve faded and you don’t know what to cover the withered sticks with, it looks very untidy. I shoveled the garden this year, replanted everything I found, under bushes, under fences, in groups, I’ll see what happens. But I planted snowdrops and crocuses visibly and invisibly - they fade and somehow hide unnoticed. In general, I came to the conclusion that you need to plant plants side by side, blooming one after another, so that the new ones cover the old ones.
17.10.2005, 22:40
Have you grown gladioli? All the books advise digging up the bulbs for the winter? Is it worth the trouble or do they cope with the local climate calmly?
I planted gladioli this year, I got them very cheaply at the end of June, planted them at the beginning of July, now they are blooming with all their might, I won’t dig them up, mother laziness. Let's see what happens. If they don’t die for me, then no one else should die; we have our first frosts somewhere at the very end of August or the very beginning of September, the last at the end of May.
17.10.2005, 22:57
I’m disappointed in tulips and daffodils, I have a lot of them, while they’re in bloom - the beauty is indescribable, they’ve faded and you don’t know what to cover the withered sticks with, it looks very untidy.
Therefore, in the same place I planted snowdrops, daffodils, crocuses, anemones, hyacinths, tulips, irises, hazel grouse, lilies, callas, ixias, and many other bulbs, which I don’t remember, some have faded, others are blooming, and all this mixed with a couple of hydrangea bushes, black elderberry, a couple of dwarf rhododendrons, magnolia, mock orange, 3 beautiful fruits (?? in the name, this is Callicarpa profusion). Something is constantly blooming, the dying foliage is not particularly noticeable.
17.10.2005, 23:20
Therefore, in the same place I planted snowdrops, daffodils, crocuses, anemones, hyacinths, tulips, irises, hazel grouse, lilies, callas, ixias, and many other bulbs, which I don’t remember, some have faded, others are blooming, and all this mixed with a couple of hydrangea bushes, black elderberry, a couple of dwarf rhododendrons, magnolia, mock orange, 3 beautiful fruits (?? in the name, this is Callicarpa profusion). Something is constantly blooming, the dying foliage is not particularly noticeable.
I’m gaining experience, but I’m not in a hurry, I’ll see what happens in the spring, I really like it when flowers of one color are in one place, another in another, for example, a group of white ones, next to them are red, then yellow and blue, and not mixed up..
17.10.2005, 23:30
I plant tulips in pots. :shy67: Then I bury the pots in the ground, seemingly so that they won’t be visible. :tsss: Then, when they finish blooming, I take them out and move them to another place to finish ripening, and then I plant the summer seedlings. If they were landed in a “strategic” place. You can also choose different varieties, which will bloom one after another, like early, mid season, then late.
The daffodils, like the grass, will wither and turn yellow, I cut them. At work I peeked out of the window. The gardener there manages entire fields of daffodils so well! :yo: He ties it with such neat sheaves, it even looks ornamental, and then, after a while, he just cuts it.
The remaining crocuses and anemones somehow disappear from view.
18.10.2005, 15:52
I plant tulips in pots. Then I bury the pots in the ground, seemingly out of sight. :tsss: Then, when they finish blooming, I take them out and move them to another place to finish ripening, and then I plant the summer seedlings. If they were landed in a “strategic” place.
And the tulips, of course, stand like burdocks and turn yellow. But not in plain sight. :sweet:
18.10.2005, 17:40
And this is an interesting thought. :hb15: Do they have enough space in the pot? Tulip bulbs have a large root system? What size are your pots? This makes it easier to periodically change the soil in the pots... :yo:
It’s quite enough, I plant different things in pots in a cycle, let them bloom, move the pot to the backyard out of sight, and take something else out. There are different tulips and different bulbs; now in a prominent place is a pot of beautiful fuchsia.
18.10.2005, 20:53
If anyone needs bulbs of tulips and other flowers, they sell £2 buy one get one free in Poundstretcher, I bought them for myself, but I have no idea where to plant them. :clueless:
19.10.2005, 13:51
And this is an interesting thought. :hb15: Do they have enough space in the pot? Do tulip bulbs have a large root system? What size are your pots? This makes it easier to periodically change the soil in the pots... :yo:
You need to select a pot in such a way that the tulips are planted at a depth of approximately three bulb sizes, and for the roots, so that there are at least two or three bulb sizes. The bulbs should not be planted directly side to side; they should be slightly removed. Usually there are 5 pieces in one pot, sometimes 7. :)
19.10.2005, 14:09
You need to select a pot in such a way that the tulips are planted at a depth of approximately three bulb sizes, and for the roots, so that there are at least two or three bulb sizes. The bulbs should not be planted directly side to side; they should be slightly removed. Usually there are 5 pieces in one pot, sometimes 7. :)
This is a good idea, I’ll plant it in a pot, otherwise I bought it yesterday and don’t know where to plant it. Please tell me should I plant it in a pot now or in the spring?
19.10.2005, 21:15
This is a good idea, I’ll plant it in a pot, otherwise I bought it yesterday and don’t know where to plant it. Please tell me should I plant it in a pot now or in the spring?
Until the end of November, although December is not too late either. They need cold to “wake up” the bulb to bloom.
19.10.2005, 23:45
Yes, but you can do it now. And put it somewhere, where it won’t get caught in frost, if it happens, but as the Doctor said, in a cool place. Or just dig the pot into the ground where it is needed, just don’t forget to water it, because they are in the pot, not in the ground. If you leave the shad in, if there is frost, you will need to cover it.
Diseases and pests of tulips and other bulbous plants are a real scourge of home flower gardens. Agree, it is very disappointing to store bulbs all winter according to all the rules, and end up losing a plant that is ready to bloom due to some infection, fungus, virus or insect invasion. To avoid this, it is important to be able to recognize threats and know how to deal with them. In total, more than 30 diseases of tulips are known, however, most of them are extremely rare and their description is not always given even in specialized literature. The greatest damage to floriculture is caused by fungal diseases such as gray and white rot, fusarium, typhullosis and penicillosis. Of the viral diseases, the most dangerous are variegation and August disease. Non-communicable diseases do not pose any particular danger and are a consequence of unfavorable external conditions. They infect tulips, usually during forcing or storage. An amateur florist must not only recognize diseases and know how to combat them, but more importantly, be fluent in methods of disease prevention. Of the pests, the greatest damage to tulips is caused by the onion root mite, onion hoverfly, purple cutworm and mole cricket. Below are descriptions of the most common diseases and pests that can cause significant damage to tulip plants and bulbs.
The biological control method plays a supporting role and consists in attracting beneficial birds to the site and protecting beneficial insects. A classic example is the ladybug. Ladybugs and their larvae eat a huge number of aphids per day.The chemical method involves the use of pesticides. It is absolutely necessary in large floriculture farms, but is used less frequently among hobbyists, because... may have a negative impact on nature and humans, especially if used inappropriately or excessively chemicals struggle. None modern methods It is impossible to completely defeat the disease, because they are one of the forms of existence of matter, but losses from them can and should be minimized.
Gray rot
It affects both aboveground and underground parts of tulips. The disease is transmitted through the soil and with planting material. In soil, sclerotia of the fungus remain viable for up to 4 years. The disease appears more often in cold years and when high humidity.
Yellow-gray spots appear on the affected leaves. Under favorable conditions, they quickly increase in size and become covered with a gray coating of fungal spores. The leaves seem to be burned by fire.As you can see in the photo, the tulip stem affected by this disease becomes bent and turns brown:
Buds do not develop. The growing season of affected plants is shortened and the bulb becomes smaller. Slightly depressed yellow-brown spots in a reddish halo appear on the fleshy scales of the affected bulbs, and black sclerotia of the fungus are visible on the covering scales of the diseased bulbs. During storage, severely affected bulbs soften, wrinkle and rot. With a weak lesion in the form of spot spotting, the disease may not be noticed and the bulbs end up being planted. In spring, diseased plants develop from such bulbs. Spores from them are carried by the wind and infect healthy plants, causing a secondary infection, the signs of which clearly appear towards the end of the growing season and are numerous yellowish-gray spots on the leaves and white, later turning brown, spots on the flowers. If, when planting weakly infected bulbs or infecting a bulb through the soil, the disease spreads from bottom to top - from the bulb to the leaves and flower, then with a secondary infection the disease spreads from top to bottom - from the flower and leaves through the stem to the bulb. The defeat of tulips during the growing season is facilitated by perennial cultivation in one place, dense plantings, mechanical damage during processing or damage due to frost and hail.
To protect plants from secondary infection during the growing season, every 10-15 days the plantings are sprayed with 1-1.5% Borboso liquid or 0.5-1.0% copper sulfate solution with the addition of green soap for better wetting of the leaves.
Of the fungicides used to treat tulips, a 0.5% solution of euporene is used, which is the most effective means combating gray mold, or captan in 0.5% concentration. Spraying the plantings 3 times (at the beginning of the growing season, during budding and after flowering) will almost completely protect the tulips from secondary infection with gray rot.
White (sclerotial) rot
The source of infection is the soil, in which sclerotia of the fungus can persist for up to 5 years. Acidic soils with high moisture promote the development of the disease. The first sign of infection by this fungal disease is uneven seedlings. Affected bulbs, as a rule, do not germinate or produce weak shoots that turn yellow and die. When digging up a diseased bulb on the neck, or less often on the bottom, you can find a white felt coating of fungal mycepium with a dense layer of black sclerotia with a diameter of 1 to 10 mm. The tissues of the affected bulbs acquire a red-brown color and rot. A characteristic feature The disease is caused by the healthy state of the root system, which is not affected by the fungus. Since tulips affected by sclerotial rot die without sprouting, or initial period growing season, the disease cannot spread with planting material. Control measures. Diseased bulbs and plants are removed along with a lump of earth. The holes are filled with ash. Tulips are returned to this place no earlier than 5 years. Tulips should not be planted after lilies, daffodils, crocuses and irises, which are also affected by this disease.
If it is impossible to transfer tulips to another place, infected beds should be disinfected with a 1.5% formaldehyde solution at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 1 square meter. After disinfection, carried out at above-zero temperatures, the beds are tightly covered for 2-3 days.
Fusarium - wet rot
Infection occurs through the bottom and roots, and in a young replacement bulb through the covering scales. The roots of the affected bulb are poorly developed and have a yellowish-brown color. The above-ground part lags behind in development, the peduncles become short and thin, and the size of the flowers decreases. Most often, infection occurs at the end of the growing season in June - early July, when the air temperature rises above 20 degrees.
Fusarium can cause great damage during storage. Temperatures above 25 °C and high humidity in the storage create favorable conditions for infection. Brown spots appear on the bottom of the affected bulb, outlined by a reddish line.The spots get larger and darker over time. A tulip bulb affected by this disease rots from the basal part (from the bottom). Rot penetrates inside and a pinkish coating of fungal spores appears between the storage scales. The bulb rots, spreading a sour smell from the ethylene released. Ethylene is not allowed in storage, because... leads to the appearance of “blind” buds in healthy bulbs.
Since the treatment of this disease of tulips is practically impossible, it is necessary, in order to avoid infection, to etch the bulbs after harvesting and before planting in a 0.2% suspension of Uzgen, or in a solution of the drug “Maxim” for 30 minutes.
Typhoulosis
It is a type of white or sclerotial rot. The infection is transmitted through planting material, soil and weeds on which the pathogen lives. In the spring, affected bulbs produce reddish sprouts that do not develop into leaves. Infection begins from the bottom, which rots first.The roots also die. The infection spreads to the entire bulb, and it dies, becoming covered with small sclerotia of the fungus, light and dark brown. Tyfulosis often appears after warm winter and wet spring, because low positive temperatures (1-2 °C) and humidity contribute to the development of the disease.
The soil is disinfected with a 1.5% formalin solution at the rate of 10 liters per 1 square meter. After digging up the tulips, the soil is dug up as deeply as possible with a layer turnover. Sclerotia of the fungus, once at great depths, die after 2.5-3 months.In case of digging to a greater depth, you can refuse to disinfect the soil with formaldehyde, because after three months the result will be almost the same.
Penicillosis
Most often it affects bulbs that have been in chambers for a long time in preparation for spring forcing, but it can also affect bulbs in open ground during the growing season. The affected bulbs become covered with yellow-brown spots with a greenish-blue coating.
Sick plants are stunted and form a weak peduncle. The development of the disease is favored by high humidity (more than 80%) and mechanical damage.Control measures. If fungus is detected in storage, the bulbs should be pickled in a solution of potassium permanganate and then dried. To avoid an increase in humidity, it is recommended to disinfect the room without treating copper sulfate, but by burning sulfur and subsequent ventilation.
Variegation
It is the most dangerous and widespread viral disease of tulips. The history of this disease goes back centuries and has been known since the appearance of tulips in Europe. True, at first flower growers considered the variegated flowers to be new varieties that were in great demand, and tried to propagate them.
However, very soon a suspicion arose that the variegation of the flower was caused by a disease. In 1928, it was proven that variegation is a disease and is caused by the variegation virus. The virus remains viable at temperatures up to 65 °C.One of the culprits in the death of a large number of the most beautiful varieties tulips bred in the 17th-19th centuries were undoubtedly infected with the variegation virus. The virus is transferred from a diseased plant to a healthy one mainly by insects (aphids, thrips) and nematodes. A person can also serve as a carrier of viruses if flowers are cut with one tool. If a diseased plant enters, the virus can be spread throughout the plantation.
There have been cases where the variegation virus completely destroyed the original color and the flowers became white or yellow. It is more difficult to determine the disease in dark red varieties. Their variegation manifests itself in the form of an increase in the saturation of the strokes of their own color.It is even more difficult to determine the disease in white and yellow varieties, because shading on flowers and leaves is weak or not noticeable at all. In this case, the disease is detected by indirect signs.
In diseased plants, the tepals are narrowed, especially at the point of attachment to the stem, the flower is smaller, and the stem is shorter. Near the stem, the tepals do not touch each other and a gap appears to form between them.
There are faintly visible light green stripes on the stems and leaves. Sometimes, under the influence of the variegation virus, chlorophyll is not formed and the stems become transparent, as if waxy, and the leaves curl and droop. In some varieties, a change in the bottom pattern is observed.
In affected plants, the weight of the bulbs decreases, the flowering stem is shortened, flowering is delayed and other varietal characteristics are lost, although the variety can grow and bloom for a long time.Control measures. There are currently no special drugs or pesticides to combat the pestine virus. Preventive actions remain the cornerstone in the fight against dangerous virus. If a disease is detected, the plant is removed and destroyed. It's better not to use a shovel, because... By cutting the roots, you can transfer the virus to neighboring healthy plants, and by loosening the soil on top, carefully pull out the diseased plant.
Dangerous carriers of the disease are insects, primarily aphids. It is necessary to monitor the appearance of aphids and, if they are found, systematically spray the tulips with infusions of plants that have a detrimental effect on insects.It is unacceptable to use one tool when cutting flowers and decapitating. Breaking off flower stalks with your hands also does not always guarantee sterility. The proximity of tulips to lilies, on which the variegation virus can be present without visible signs of infection, can be especially dangerous. Growing tulips next to lilies is undesirable, and after lilies it is unacceptable.
But still the best way combating the mottle virus is the transition to growing the latest varieties registrations from the 40-80s, which underwent industrial cultivation, are almost completely affected by this virus.
Paperiness of flowers or the appearance of blind buds
Papery or “blind” buds most often appear during forcing, but can also occur when grown in open ground. At early boarding tulips, when the soil temperature is relatively high, rooting occurs weakly, while the bulb begins to grow. Violation of growth balance leads to the appearance of papery (“blind”) buds.Bulbs suffering from fusarium blight are especially dangerous. The released ethylene has a detrimental effect on healthy bulbs and causes the appearance of “blind” buds. Planting diseased bulbs is highly undesirable. Neighboring healthy bulbs, as a rule, do not bloom.Control measures. Compliance with planting dates and storage conditions of bulbs, careful culling of patients with fusarium.
Drooping (overturning) of the peduncle
Most often observed during forcing. A glassy spot appears on the stem in its upper part, on the surface of which droplets of moisture are noticeable. Then the tissue wrinkles and the stem droops. This disease is caused by a lack of calcium due to too rapid growth caused by high temperature.Calcium moves through the plant more slowly than other elements and is absorbed by it. The disease appears more often in plants grown from immature bulbs (dug up too early).Control measures. During the active growing season, tulips are watered with a 1.5% solution of calcium nitrate Ca(N03). Forced distillation mode at high temperatures is unacceptable.
Gum removal of bulbs
Caused by excess sunlight. The disease most often affects bulbs at the end of the active growing season. Yellow-brown and bluish-brown spots appear on the storage scales, from which a colorless liquid oozes, forming deposits of yellow gum when it dries.The bulbs themselves are not infectious and healthy plants grow from them. However, when damaged, they are more susceptible to disease.Control measures. Timely excavation and etching for 30 minutes in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate. Maintenance in storage optimal mode.
Lime disease
Affects bulbs during storage. The bulbs seem to be saturated with lime and become white and hard. The disease manifests itself in conditions of high humidity and high temperatures and affects unripe bulbs. Control measures. Timely excavation, maintaining optimal humidity and temperature during storage.
Onion root mite
Is one of dangerous pests tulips and other bulbous and corm plants. The mite is an insect less than 1 mm long, has an oval body shape and a light yellow shiny color. It enters the bulb by gnawing at the bottom, or through a mechanically damaged area. Having settled in the bulb, it gnaws passages in it and wears out the bottom.A lot of damage can occur during storage. It reproduces especially well at a temperature of about 25 ° C and a humidity of more than 70%. Under unfavorable conditions, it enters a resting stage, vital processes slow down sharply, and the tick remains viable for a long time.Spreads through the soil or with planting material. Affected plants stop growing, turn yellow and die. Control measures. Removing affected plants. After digging and during storage, the bulbs are carefully examined, especially the bottom, selecting all sick and suspicious ones. Affected bulbs are subjected to heat treatment by immersing for 30 minutes in water at a temperature of 43 °C or for 5 minutes in water heated to 50 °C. At the same time, it is not recommended to carry out this procedure on bulbs intended for forcing and which have undergone a cooling period.
After drying, the bulbs should be sprinkled with chalk, which sticks to the body of the mites, and they die from desiccation. It is better to plant the treated bulbs in a separate quarantine bed. If a mite is detected, the tulips are moved to another place, and plants resistant to the pest are planted in this place: tomatoes, radishes.
Onion hoverfly
The fly is larger than a room fly, up to 1 cm long. The color is dark green with a metallic tint. Begins to fly and lay eggs in the soil at the end of May-June. The damage is caused by larvae that penetrate the bulb through the bottom.
The larvae are greenish-gray, 10-12 mm long. They appear in June and from flies of the second generation - in September. They overwinter in soil and bulbs. Damaged bulbs in the spring produce oppressed plants with yellowing leaves.Control measures. Removing and burning diseased plants. Deep pre-sowing digging with formation turnover. The larvae that find themselves in the surface layer die in winter. Mulching with peat prevents egg laying. Dust the soil with naphthalene to repel flies.
Purple armyworm
It is a butterfly with a wingspan of up to 5 cm. In August-September it flies and lays eggs on plants and plant debris. One butterfly can lay up to 2000 eggs.
The eggs overwinter on plants. The butterfly larva is a reddish-purple caterpillar with a red stripe along the back. Pupates in July - early August in an earthen cocoon at a depth of 5-9 cm, and in the second half of August-September butterflies fly out of the cocoons.The caterpillar damages the stems of tulips. One caterpillar can damage a significant number of plants. Control measures. Destruction on site weeds and residues of crop rotation plants. It is useful to dust the lower part of the stem with naphthalene in May-June.
Medvedka
May cause significant damage. It feeds on sprouted seeds, underground parts of plants, gnawing stems and roots. The length of the insect is 40-50 mm. The body is dark brown above, brownish-yellow below with a silky sheen.
The front legs are modified and well adapted for digging and making passages, which are mainly located at a depth of 2-4 cm. The insect goes deeper only for wintering and for laying eggs.
The mole cricket overwinters at a depth of up to one meter. The female lays a nest the size of a large apple in May-June 10-15 cm below the surface. In order for the nest to warm up well, the mole cricket destroys all nearby plants, which at the same time serves as a good guide to finding and destroying it.
The presence of a mole cricket in an area can also be detected by holes in the soil or mounds that are formed as a result of the insect clearing its passages. After rain or watering, the soil above them dries out faster and the passages are clearly visible.Control measures. The mole cricket's nest, in which it lays several hundred eggs, is destroyed as a result of deep loosening of the soil. Eggs and larvae thrown to the surface die. Good results are achieved by using the simplest traps.
In early spring, sheets of iron, slate, and plywood are laid out on the site. The insect crawls under them to bask. All that remains is to regularly lift the laid out sheets and collect pests.
At the beginning of May, it is advisable to spread small piles of manure on the site, preferably horse manure. The mole cricket makes burrows in such heaps and lays eggs. After 20-30 days, these piles are searched and burned along with pests and eggs.
You can also catch mole crickets with water traps. To do this, jars of water are buried in the ground. The edge of the jar is at ground level, and the water is 6-8 cm below. During the night, a significant number of insects fall into such traps.
The construction of bait pits is especially effective. In August - early September, they dig holes up to half a meter deep, fill them with manure and cover them with earth. Insects, attracted by the warmth, climb into the pits for the winter. With the onset of frost, the pits are opened, the manure is scattered, and the mole crickets die.
Wireworms
Wireworms infect tulip bulbs during the active growing season, gnawing holes in them. Damaged bulbs rot and are more easily affected by diseases.Wireworms are yellow and light brown in color, very hard, similar to pieces of copper wire, which is why they got their name. They are the larvae of the click beetle, which is quite widespread.
In May - early June, the female beetle lays eggs in the largest groups in the soil near the root collar of plants. For laying, it chooses places overgrown with grasses, preferably wheatgrass and thistle, which are the favorite food of wireworms. Beetles and larvae overwinter, as a rule, at a depth of about 20 cm.Control measures. The main method of controlling wireworms is agrotechnical. Autumn digging of the soil leads to the death of beetles, larvae and pupae in winter. Systematic removal of weeds and deep loosening also lead to the destruction of larvae and eggs.
Wireworms live on acidic soils and do not tolerate neutral and alkaline. The addition of lime, chalk, and ash reduces the number of pests.Ammonia forms of nitrogen fertilizers are also toxic to wireworms. Adding 20-30 g/m2 of ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate creates unfavorable conditions for the reproduction of click beetles and leads to a sharp reduction in wireworms.
Good results allows you to catch larvae using bait. Pieces of potatoes or beets are placed on a fishing line at a distance of 10-15 cm. The fishing line is buried to a depth of 15 cm and the ends are secured with pegs and sticks. After 2-3 days, the baits are inspected and the larvae are destroyed.
It is even better to catch the larvae on bait plants. To do this, wheat, barley, oats, and corn are planted in nests between the rows. The sprouted grains of these plants, like a magnet, attract the larvae of the click beetle.Wireworms are destroyed by pulling out bait plants, which are replanted. By repeating this procedure several times, you can almost completely free the area from dangerous pests.
Greenhouse aphid
It can cause significant harm to tulips, especially during forcing. The greenhouse aphid is an insect up to 2 mm long, oval-shaped, green or Pink colour with dark transverse stripes.
Individuals, as a rule, are wingless, and at a certain period associated with reproduction, winged ones also appear. They reproduce like an avalanche, which allows these defenseless insects to exist for millions of years. They settle on leaves, peduncles, and buds. They feed on plant sap.Affected plants become deformed and even die. However, aphids pose the greatest danger as potential carriers of viral diseases, in particular variegation. Control measures. To destroy aphids, I have successfully used an infusion of shag with the addition of laundry soap. For 10 liters hot water I take 5 g of shag and 50 g of laundry soap. I leave it for two days, filter it and spray the tulips with the resulting infusion. Spraying with infusions of red hot pepper or garlic gives good results.
Lacewings, hoverflies (not to be confused with onion hoverflies), ladybugs and others provide great assistance to humans in destroying aphids. Thus, one ladybug larva eats more than 100 adult aphids in one day.
May beetle (Khrushchev)
The bulbs and roots of plants are damaged by the larvae. The white fleshy larva with a dark brown head and three pairs of legs is 4-6 cm long. It develops in 4-5 years. In the first year, the larva feeds on humus, and later switches to plant foods.
It overwinters at a depth of one meter or more. Pupates at a depth of 30-50 cm. The female beetle lays eggs at a depth of 20-30 cm.Control measures. In the Moscow region, the invasion of beetles and larvae, as a rule, is not widespread. A deep dig with a turnover of the layer and a simultaneous selection of larvae is sufficient.
Treatment of tulips from gray mold
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Fungal diseases of bulbs - flower forum
Often, when we buy flower bulbs, we do not suspect that along with them we also buy problems in the form of fungal diseases; such a planted bulb does not produce a healthy plant, its growth slows down, flowering is either weak or may not be expected at all. In advanced cases, the bulb may simply die. Let's look at the most common fungal diseases.
Red burn (stagonosporosis)- a severe fungal disease of bulbs, characteristic of hippeastrum. At the same time, red narrow spots appear on the leaves, bulbs, and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form. The infection is very contagious - leaves and peduncles are deformed, and the bulb itself rots. Daughter bulbs are also infected. The disease is promoted by sudden changes in temperature and excess moisture during watering. Often infected bulbs appear on sale, and it is difficult to detect the disease if the bulbs are individually packaged and cannot be inspected.
You can try to fight the disease, which is quite difficult and may not be effective. Prevention in the form of healthy planting material is more preferable.
Botrytis- a dangerous and most severe disease of many bulbous plants, also called gray rot. The infection quickly spreads throughout the plantings, especially in cool spring weather with high humidity. Young leaves are affected first, starting from the bottom of the stem. The disease then spreads throughout the plant, affecting the stem and buds. When the dampness is favorable for the development of the fungus, botrytis in a matter of days turns the plants into a pile of rotting stems, as if scalded by boiling water. Snow-white lily hybrids are most susceptible to the disease. Clearly defined yellow-orange or brown spots of round or irregular shape. The bulbs wrinkle, turn black, and fungal sclerotia form on their surface, which serve as a source of infection. Affected bulbs produce weak shoots and develop poorly, leaf blades are torn, deformed and turn brown. Plants seem to be charred; in wet weather they become covered with a gray coating of fungus
In gladioli, it affects all parts of the plant - peduncles, buds, stems and bulbs. The insidiousness of this disease lies in the fact that it can develop not only during the growing season, but also during storage of gladioli.
Brownish-green blurry spots appear on the leaves and peduncles of gladioli, usually bordered by a reddish border. The buds and flowers turn brown. Decayed tissue becomes covered with a gray or ash-gray fluffy coating. This manifestation of gray rot is observed at high humidity - during periods of prolonged rain. In dry weather, the affected areas become discolored and the flowers fall off.
On bulbs, the manifestation of the disease can most often be observed in the neck area. The affected tissue softens and changes color - it turns brown. Under the covering scales and on the surface of the bulb, you can see a gray moldy coating, in place of which, over time, small black sclerotia form from the compacted mycelium of the fungus.
Under the covering scales of the bulbs Narcissov small black bodies of the fungus are noticeable - sclerotia, as well as large brown and wet spots at the base of the leaves, on the leaf blade, accompanied by yellowing of the leaves. The scales of the bulbs become soft and rot. With high storage humidity, a light gray or gray-brown swollen coating of mycelium and fungal spores forms on the bulbs. The development of sclerotinosis is promoted by lower temperatures and precipitation. The sclerotia of the fungus are not susceptible to the action of pesticides and persist for a long time. Severely affected bulbs usually die during storage, and those that manage to survive produce yellow, deformed shoots that quickly become covered with gray fungal spores.
Fusarium. Infection is promoted by mechanical damage to tissues. A microscopic fungus of the genus Fusarium, starting from the bottom, gradually affects the entire bulb. It turns brown and falls apart. U Lily The disease is not always easy to notice by the yellowing of the leaves: the plant may continue to develop normally due to healthy supra-bulb roots, but during wintering or storage the infected lily dies. The development of the disease is facilitated by humidity and heat soil, as well as the introduction of poorly rotted manure containing fungal spores that can persist in the soil for up to three years.
U Tulips Fusarium blight appears towards the end of the growing season, causing significant loss of tulips. Sometimes fusarium causes mass death of seedlings in early spring after the snow melts. Large tulips are stunted, their flowers are small and faded, their flower stalks are short and thin. Fusarium rot enters plants from the soil, usually through the bottom and roots. Sick tulips are easily pulled out of the soil. Fusarium also causes significant bulb loss. Before digging, wet white rot covering the bottom and peeling scales are clearly visible on them. During storage, large, light-brown spots with a red-brown border form on the bulbs, and a pink coating of fungal sporulation appears between the scales. Subcutaneous tissues soften, darken and acquire a sharp, specific odor. Diseased bulbs secrete a viscous sticky substance that turns the bulb into dust.
Amaryllis are quite resistant to this disease, but with a lack of nutrition and waterlogging in heavy dense soil, sudden temperature changes and damage by pests, they can be affected by fundaria. Visually – general withering and drying out, poorly developed roots. Infected bulbs dangerous source infections for other plants.
On the affected gladiolus bulb, white or pinkish mycelium with dense pink conidial sporulation pads are formed.
On the diseased bulb you can notice softened tissue, which dries out as it breaks down. Gradually, the disease can cover the entire bulb, as a result of which the latter dies. During the growing season, the disease manifests itself by yellowing and dying of leaves.
On the blooming Narcissov Fusarium manifests itself in the form of yellowing of the tips of the leaves, stunted growth, and rotting roots are noticeable in dug up bulbs. The pink and white web-like mycelium of the fusarius mushroom appears between the concentric layers of the bulbs. With minor damage, you can only notice reddish stains on the bulb and faded roots.
Bulbs and roots Hyacinths rot, plants are stunted, inflorescences are underdeveloped.
Phythium It affects the roots of plants, which is why lilies cannot get enough water and nutrients.
Blue mold- a storage disease, during which whitish spots of fungal hyphae appear on the surface of the affected bulbs, covered with a greenish coating of sporulation.
If the plant withered during the growing season, and when you dug up the bulb you noticed that its tissues had turned yellow and the roots had become discolored and dead, then there are signs of infection by the rhizoctonia fungus.
Bacterial (soft) rot. When affected by this disease, brown oval spots appear on the leaves of lilies in early spring. Then the plants gradually turn yellow, rot, and the leaves and flower stalks fall off. The cause of this disease can be diseased bulbs, waterlogging of the soil and excess nitrogen fertilizers.
During storage, unpleasant-smelling depressed spots appear on the scales of lily bulbs affected by bacterial rot, causing rotting of the planting material.
It is important to regularly inspect lily bulbs during storage. Detected diseased bulbs must be immediately isolated from others and destroyed; Do not plant lilies in the same place for several years. It is recommended to disinfect: soil and bulbs - before planting, storage - 2 weeks before storing bulbs. When the disease appears during the period of germination and growth, the plants are sprayed with fungicides 3 times a month.
Infection of gladioli with wet bacterial rot in the early stages of the growing season can lead to complete death of plants or, in mild cases, cause disturbances in the development of gladili. In this case, the plants lag behind in development, and a new bulb forms more slowly.
Depending on the variety of gladiolus and specific type the causative agent of wet bacterial rot of gladioli, the disease can manifest itself in different ways.
The external manifestations of the disease are in many ways similar to diseases associated with infections of other types of rot, such as penicillium rot or botrytium rot. The aboveground part of the gladioli clearly lags behind in development from the healthy gladioli growing nearby. Dry hot weather affected gladioli wither faster, since the damaged underground root part is not able to fully provide the plants with moisture and nutrients. Often, even with abundant watering, diseased gladioli remain wilted.
On the gladiolus bulb itself, the disease manifests itself as follows. Near the stem end, a light brown spot appears on the neck of the bulb, at the site of which the tissue becomes soaked and loses its hardness. Next, the bulb affected by wet bacterial rot becomes yellow-brown in color, completely softens and becomes covered with mucus. The abundant formation of mucus is caused by pectological enzymes secreted by pathogenic bacteria, which destroy the middle plates of cells. The affected bulb may have a rather unpleasant odor.
The peduncles and leaves of such an affected plant begin to darken and very often become covered in the future. rusty spots. Such a peduncle easily comes off the bulb
.
Root rot.Contaminated soil and diseased planting material, waterlogging of the soil can also cause root rot in lilies: the tops of the leaves turn yellow, the plants dry out. When dug up, it is clear that the bulb is healthy, and its roots are covered with small brown spots. Affected parts of plants must be removed. To prevent the appearance and spread of root rot, lily bulbs along with the roots are disinfected before planting.
Rust. The carriers of this disease are diseased lily bulbs and plant debris with fungal spores. On the leaves of plants infected with rust, small colorless spots first appear, later turning yellow, with pads of red spores. The leaves and stems of such lilies soon dry out.
Leaves and stems found to be infected with rust are destroyed.
White rot- usually affects the neck of the tulip bulb, then spreads throughout the plant. The stem and bulb are covered with a white coating consisting of fungal mycelium and sclerotia, which overwinter in the soil, infecting healthy bulbs.
Tyfulosis- a fungal disease of tulips - is one of the varieties of white dry rot. Tulips emerge later, the leaves do not develop, the shoots remain curled into a tube and are red in color. With a weak degree of infection, when there are no obvious signs of bottom rot, the plants have a depressed appearance, do not bloom or produce “blind” buds, and their root system is not viable. The development of the disease is promoted by low temperatures above zero (1-2o). Therefore, typhullosis is more pronounced after a warm winter and with high humidity in autumn and spring. The infection persists in the soil and is transmitted with the bulb. Infected bulbs during storage serve as a source of disease. Weeds are also carriers of the disease.
Penicillosis- the above-ground parts and bulbs of gladiolus, hyacinth and other bulbous plants rot and become covered with a green coating of sporulation of the fungus, developing with excess humidity during the growing season. Bright yellow-brown spots with abundant bluish-green bloom appear on the bulbs. Only the outer scales are damaged. Tulips are stunted, bloom poorly, and if severely damaged they can die.
In glvdiolus the disease manifests itself as follows. First, small spots appear on the bulb yellow color, which grow as the disease progresses. Then the affected tissue begins to darken, soften and wrinkle.
If penicillium rot begins to appear during the growing season of gladioli, then this happens, as a rule, at the very beginning - the growing leaves begin to turn yellow and die. Moreover, they can be easily removed from the soil without any effort. Having dug up the affected bulb, you can observe the following picture: the bulb has turned black and become soft, rotten, and abundantly covered with a greenish coating.
Such a bulb should be destroyed so that no foci of the pathogen penicillium rot remain in the area. It is advisable to remove such a bulb with a lump of earth adhering to it, so that no fungal spores remain in the soil.
If the disease manifests itself during storage, then such a bulb, covered with dry scales, is noticeably lighter than normal bulbs. Under the scales you can see the same picture: a wrinkled, rotten onion, covered with a powdery mass of green or green-blue spores.
Penicillin rot appears on daffodil bulbs in the form of a green-blue coating in damp storage, and at temperatures above 20 degrees cream and light brown spores are formed.
Rhizoctoniosis. The disease occurs in early spring, in years with frequent winter thaws, and spreads in patches. Clear round depressed gray spots with a yellow-brown border form on the bulbs. Subsequently, the bulbs are completely destroyed. Plants become deformed and brown, perforated spots appear on the leaves. The above-ground part dies off.
Control measures. Avoid mechanical damage when digging up tulips.
Anthracnose – dark spots on the leaves of hipperastrum, there are dark brown streaks at the ends. The reason is waterlogging. You have to treat the flowers with a fungicide and destroy the affected parts of the plants. Complete cessation of spraying and reduction of watering.
Yellow-brown bacterial rot All types of gladioli are susceptible to this disease. The disease can affect both young and old bulbs and leaves.
Favorable temperature for the development of yellow-brown bacterial rot is +30-35 degrees. It is noteworthy that pathogenic bacteria are able to continue their vital activity at a temperature of +41 degrees, despite the fact that for most bacteria and viruses this temperature is destructive. At temperatures of +4 degrees and below, pathogens of bacterial rot develop, but do not die.
On the aboveground part of the gladiolus, the disease manifests itself as follows. In affected plants, the tissue along the edge of the leaf begins to turn yellow. Or, multiple convex dotted spots may form on the fleshy part, ranging in color from light red to brown. When, as the zones grow, they merge, large dead areas are formed. This process is accompanied by the appearance of gray-black spots at the base of the leaf, the growth of which leads to the breaking off of leaves in such places.
On the bulb, the manifestation of the disease begins with the appearance of brown-black spots on the scales. On the bulbs themselves, these spots are round in shape, pressed into the tissue of the bulb, and have a horn-like surface. The color of the spots is yellow-brown, which is where the name of this disease comes from. As yellow-brown rot develops, the surface tissue of the bulb begins to rot. When the affected tissue is removed, round-shaped depressions remain on the bulb.
Gladioli bulbs affected by the disease fade. Sometimes a gumous exudate appears on diseased bulbs, after which a film dries on the surface of the recess, as if varnish coating. This symptom is called “varnished scab,” which very well characterizes the manifestation of yellow-brown bacterial rot.
Like other rots, the causative agent of yellow-brown rot of gladioli easily penetrates the bulb through damaged areas. Therefore, to prevent the disease, try to avoid mechanical damage to gladioli bulbs; select only undamaged bulbs for planting.
Brown heart rot- brown spots with a gray fluffy coating form on the leaves, inflorescences and base of the gladiolus stem, then rot affects the core of the corm.
Dry rot, or sclerotinia, — the affected gladioli corms become mummified by spring.
Hard rot, or septoria, — gladioli corms become covered with dark spots during storage, harden and die; reason - excess humidity air.
Verticillium wilt affects dahlias, gladioli, begonias, cyclamens.
Vascular wilting (tracheomycosis) amaze vascular system plants. The pathogens live in the soil.
The first sign of the disease is the wilting of plants, as if there was a lack of moisture. The leaves wither, turn brown and dry out.
Sick plants are significantly stunted in growth and flowering deteriorates. On a cross section of the stem, yellowing or browning of the vessels is noticeable. Later, the pathogens move from the vessels to adjacent tissues, destroy them and cause the death of the plant.
Tyfulosis is one of the most common fungal diseases.(Typhula borealis) is a type of dry rot.
Severely affected bulbs in the spring they do not sprout, and in partially rotten ones, belated tubes appear, the leaves do not unfold. The development of the disease is favored by winters with thaws and high humidity in autumn and spring.
The infection persists in the soil and infects planted bulbs, it also gets into the ground with diseased bulbs.
In the spring, be sure to dig up the late-rising and non-emerging bulbs together in the soil surrounding them. You will find partially or completely rotten roots and a seemingly collapsed bottom. On inside scales, small (2 mm) black sclerotia of the fungus will be visible.
To prevent bulbs from becoming infected, newly acquired before planting should be pickled in foundation (50% sp.) - 30-40 g per 10 l of water or in carticide (50% sp.) - 40 g per 10 l of water, for 25-30 min.
To keep the bulbs healthy, they must be processed before storing them after digging, pre-drying and cleaning. It is important to maintain the sequence of treatments - first with fungicides, and then, when the solution has drained, with insectoacaricides, and then dry thoroughly.
Very malicious Fungal diseases include gray rot (gray mold, tulip blight, Botrytis tulipae). On infected bulbs, clearly defined brown spots are visible, the tissues soften, a gray coating and many small, black sclerotia appear.
Bulbs, as a rule, become infected from above from diseased aerial parts. Diseased bulbs form weak seedlings, which, under conditions of low temperatures and high humidity, become covered with a gray coating of fungal sporulation and sclerotia.
