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Choose environmentally friendly warm insulating material, which can be used for exterior finishing country house? Such material exists, it is environmentally friendly, easy to install, and in addition, it is characterized by excellent heat and sound insulating properties. It's about about Izoplat slabs, which are becoming more and more popular every year in Russia and the CIS countries.
ISOPLAAT (IZOPLAT) is wide range insulating materials intended for thermal insulation and wind protection of the house. The brand's product range includes materials for insulating floors, walls and roofs.
Performance characteristics of ISOPLAAT products (IZOPLAT) | |
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Environmental friendliness. In the manufacture of insulating material, adhesives and impregnations containing phenol are not used. The insulation contains no components with carcinogenic effects. |
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Insulation against heat loss from the inside. In terms of thermal conductivity, the insulating material is comparable to mineral wool, which is popular today. Therefore, external wall cladding will make the house more economical and energy efficient. |
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Insulation from outside heat. External wall cladding will make the house look like a thermos. As a result, in the hot summer the house will be cool and there will be no need for air conditioning. Optimal temperature it remains in the house for 15 hours, provided that both the walls and the roofing pie are insulated. |
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Soundproofing properties. Due to the structure with many microcavities, fiber boards are characterized by high sound insulation ability, which increases in proportion to the thickness of the material. |
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Air permeability and hygroscopicity. The slabs used as cladding allow air to pass through without compromising their thermal insulation properties. This quality significantly reduces the likelihood of mold growing inside the building. Moreover, Izoplat, passing air from the outside, absorbs moisture from it, and then releases this moisture to the outside. Therefore, houses with such breathable walls will be dry. |
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Bactericidal properties. During the production of boards, starch and sugar are naturally removed from the thickness of wood. As a result, the finished insulating material, due to the lack of a nutrient medium, loses its attractiveness to microorganisms.
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Easy to install. Despite high efficiency insulation system, installation of slabs is simpler than insulation of construction sites with mineral wool. As a result, you can do the installation yourself and save on the services of professional installers. |
It is important to remember that ISOPLAAT material is manufactured only by the trade and production association SKANO GROUP (Estonia).
There are no enterprises engaged in the production of these materials either in Russia or in other countries except Estonia. Therefore, if you are offered to buy Izoplat slabs that are not made in Estonia, know that they are fake.
Are there any analogues? Izoplat brand products are not unique and there are slabs with similar characteristics on the market. These materials are sold under the brands BELTERMO (Belarus) and STEICO (Poland).
For outer skin used at home slab material Isoplate made from coniferous wood shavings mixed with a type of tree resin - lignin.
The structure of lignin is similar to the structure of reinforced concrete, only here the function of reinforcement is performed by cellulose fibers. As a result, a board of wood origin, with a low density, is highly durable in comparison with other types of insulating building materials.
Illustrations | What can be used for external wall insulation? |
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Windproof plate. This insulation is used to protect external walls from strong cold winds. The material is installed with equal success on top solid walls and is laid inside frame structures. The plate is characterized by high bending strength, and therefore serves as a rigidity enhancer for the isolated structure.
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Heat-insulating (sound-insulating) plates. This insulation is used to reduce the thermal conductivity of external walls. In addition to low thermal conductivity, the slab has high sound-absorbing and dissipative properties. Along with cladding external walls, the material is used to fill interior partitions.
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UNIVERSAL. These finishing modules have a milled tongue-and-groove lock around the perimeter. UNIVERSAL modules are universal solution For interior decoration and external sound, heat and wind insulation. Due to the locking connection, the use of modules is characterized by the complete absence of cold bridges!
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ISOMODUL. This is another category universal material suitable for cladding walls and for laying in the base of the floor and in roofing structures. But unlike UNIVERSAL, there is no perimeter lock.
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How to insulate walls under a ventilated façade? Let's look at cladding technology using the example of a frame house. In this case, a 25 mm thick wind barrier board is marked and cut in such a way as to cover the distance between two adjacent posts.
The slabs are fastened with galvanized nails or anodized screws, both of which are driven or screwed directly into the frame posts.
If windproof modules with lock connection along the perimeter, then the cold bridges are blocked due to the insertion of the tenon into the groove. If slabs without a tongue-and-groove connection are used, additional seam sealing will be required.
This can be done using polyurethane foam, which is blown into the seam, where it expands and polymerizes. Sealing with polyurethane foam will not only eliminate the appearance of cold bridges, but will also increase the rigidity of the wall sheathing.
After the outer part of the walls is lined, sheathing is done to install the ventilated façade. The choice of lathing method is determined by the type finishing material, which will be installed during finishing. For example, the photo shows a vertical sheathing for installing horizontal siding.
Since the facade will be ventilated, the sheathing must be assembled in such a way that a sufficient gap is formed between the finishing layer and the windproof material. To do this, when assembling the sheathing, it is enough to use a 40x40 mm block, installed in increments of 50 cm.
The wooden blocks are fastened with self-tapping screws directly to the Isoplat, the density of which will be sufficient to hold the sheathing with the facade cladding.
Is it possible to insulate external walls with Isoplat before subsequent plastering? Yes, there is such a possibility, but under one condition - you need to use slabs with a thickness of 25 mm or more.
Insulating wood board absorbs moisture like a sponge, but unlike ordinary particle boards which swell, the material subsequently releases moisture to the outside. Now let’s imagine plaster laid on top of Isoplat. The slab is immediately moistened, but as the plaster sets, the insulation will release moisture, so the finishing layer will not crack.
Insulation of external walls using the frameless method is preceded by preparing the mounting surface. The wall is leveled and the relief is completely removed from it. Then the slabs are attached to the wall at intervals with dowels and nails 75 mm long.
At the same stage, a plaster mesh. Plastering is carried out on a grid in two layers: the first rough layer, the second finishing.
Isoplat is modern material, using which you can make your home warmer and more comfortable. If you still have questions about the technology of working with Izoplat insulation boards, ask them in the comments to the article.
For quality repairs should always be used only best materials. This article will discuss in detail the heat and sound insulating board called Izoplat, its characteristics, purpose, prices and much more.
Isoplat is a special plate that can be used for both thermal insulation and sound insulation.
This material is environmentally natural because it is made from fibers coniferous trees without adding glue or any other artificial impurities. The crushed wood is simply wetted, laid out in a straight line and compacted with a hot press with wax, which turns ready material into thick sheets.
Izoplat can be used for the following purposes:
Isoplat slabs recently appeared on construction markets, but have already managed to gain great demand and popularity. They have the following technical characteristics:
The material has “breathable” properties, so it does not appear on the walls. greenhouse effect", which can lead to the formation of fungi.
The advantages of this material are as follows:
The cost of Izoplat sheets depends on the following factors:
So, here is a general price table for this material:
Installation of classic thermal insulation sheets has the following features:
Installation of moisture-resistant Izoplat sheets has the following features:
Having analyzed the reviews, it can be noted that the majority of people who tried it were satisfied with the effect of Isoplat sheets, since their home became much warmer.
The procedure for installing the ISOPLAT slab on a vertical wooden frame(lathing)
For the manufacture of frame structure A wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 45x45 is used as a partition or cladding of the base wall. The pitch of the frame posts depends on the thickness of the slab. Fastening is carried out using galvanized nails with a wide head or construction staples made of of stainless steel or coated. The length of the fastener depends on the thickness of the slab. Along the perimeter of the sheet, nails are nailed every 100-150 mm, inside the sheet every 300 mm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 10-20 mm.
ISOPLAT plate 12 mm thick.
ISOPLAT plate 25 mm thick.
The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs to a stone (concrete, etc.) wall using glue. Frameless installation
If the stone surface is fairly flat, then you can do without sheathing. Sheets of Isoplats are glued directly to the wall, due to which inner space premises.
Simple and quick way– polyurethane polyurethane foam(such as Macroflex, etc.) or polyurethane sealant (such as Tytan Industry PU, etc.).
Glue selection:
- For experienced craftsmen glue for plasterboard (dry mixture based on gypsum or cement, brand of your choice) or glue for mineral wool(on a cement basis, for example, CERESIT ST 190 or BAUMIT StarKontakt).
- simple and most effective method— polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL, etc.).
The adhesive can be applied both to the wall and to the sheet. Depends on the glue manufacturer's instructions. For example, if the base is flat, the glue is applied to the sheet in a 50 mm wide strip using a notched trowel around the perimeter and in three rows inside the sheet. If the base is uneven, the glue is applied in a thick layer of at least 10 mm, as shown in the photo, or on the wall in plaques.
Foam is applied to the sheet along the perimeter and in three rows along the length inside the sheet. The distance between the rows of foam is approximately 30 cm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 3 cm. The foam can also be applied in a zigzag, as shown in the photo. For a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm, in order to prevent subsequent swelling of the thin sheet, you should wait a few minutes after applying the foam so that the foam expands as much as possible.
Then the ISOPLAT sheet is lifted, installed on 10-12 mm pads, pressed against the wall and leveled. The sheet must be pressed against the surface to be glued for at least 15 minutes. It is recommended to additionally press the glued sheet to the wall with screws. At least 9 pcs. 3 in a row per sheet. Screws will also help to fit the joints of two sheets. After the glue has dried, the screws can be removed. Fill the voids in the seams with glue or foam to prevent the formation of cracks along the joints after puttying. When using glue or foam, it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations: types of surfaces to be glued, adhesion time, pressing time, etc.
Before subsequent (finishing) finishing, you must wait at least 24 hours for the sheet to dry completely.
Attention! Typically, the outermost sheets on a pallet (applies to thin sheets 12 mm thick) may have slight surface curvature due to high elasticity and natural properties wood. The sheet easily straightens when mounted on a frame structure, or when laid on a floor or ceiling as an insulating absorbent layer in a multilayer structure in combination with rigid sheets, such as gypsum board. For gluing to the wall, it is recommended to slightly moisten such sheets using a hand sprayer and place them on a hard surface. straight base or on the floor and press it with a small weight on top. Leave for 24 hours.
The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs on the ceiling
It is recommended to attach Isoplat sheets to the ceiling on a wooden frame or metal profile. The pitch of the posts and the length of the fasteners are the same as for mounting on a wooden frame indicated above. The fastening spacing is twice as frequent as on a vertical frame (wall). Fasteners: nails with a wide head or screws with a “bug” head. Then a gypsum board sheet is mounted on top of the Isoplat sheet. Further finishing of the gypsum board sheet is carried out in the usual manner. It is not recommended to glue Izoplat sheet to the ceiling.
Preparing ISOPLAT sheets for finishing
Puttying of joints is carried out using reinforcing mesh ordinary putty (for example, the brand does not matter, but it is advisable to choose ready-made in plastic buckets, since there is an optimal amount of water there). Preliminarily along the joints of the installed sheets using sandpaper make a recess 2-3 mm and 50-60 mm wide. Conventional putty is applied in the area where sheets meet to the specified width, reinforcing tape is laid along the joint and smoothed with a spatula while removing excess putty. Do not allow the putty to be completely squeezed out from under the tape. After the first layer of putty has dried (12-24 hours), a covering layer is applied. The recesses formed by nail heads or staples should also be filled with putty. After drying, the putty surface is sanded and the entire surface is primed. water-based paint. The smooth surface of the ISOPLAT board is used for wallpapering, painting, and plastering. For best results in case of high requirements to surface quality, usually, continuous finishing putty. Then the surface prime with water-based paint. Further finishing of the puttied and primed surface is carried out according to standard methods.
Primer with water-based paint provides a white base for wallpaper. Plus: the brown dark background will not be visible through the wallpaper. Another plus: if you re-glue the wallpaper, you can easily soak and remove the old wallpaper without damaging the surface of the slab. You won't have to putty again.
Description of installation of ISOPLAT sheets to diagrams 1-5
The Scandinavian windproof board ISOPLAAT is a sheet with a format of 2700x1200 mm. Thickness 12 or 25 mm. The edge of the sheet is straight.
ISOPLAT sheets are installed vertically to the frame structure of the wall (for example, the wall of a frame house made of 150x50 boards or lathing on aerated concrete made of 50x50 mm timber). In this case, one sheet covers three vertical posts. The distance between the frame posts from their centers should be 600 mm (see drawing 1).
ISOPLAT sheets are nailed with galvanized nails or professional construction staples along the entire perimeter of the sheet: vertically to the frame posts, horizontally to the strapping elements or to the mortgages. And in the center of the sheet, where auxiliary markings are applied in the center on the painted side.
Horizontal joints of two sheets that do not fall on the strapping element are reinforced with a mortgage (board/beam at least 50x50 mm), to which the edges of the slabs are nailed. The mortgage is installed with inside frame structure between vertical posts and attached to them metal corners. The boards are secured using nails or staples. To facilitate installation, there is a longitudinal strip in the center of the sheet.
The height of the base must be at least 40 cm.
If a ventilated façade (lining, siding, etc.) is planned as decorative wall cladding, it is recommended wooden blocks or install slats (lathing) immediately after installing the slabs to provide additional rigidity (as shown in the photo on the left, pay attention to the height of the base there).
Windproof boards should be covered with outer façade cladding no later than one month after their installation. To ensure moisture exchange, an air (ventilated) gap of 20-50 mm wide is created between the slab and the sheathing.
Fastening 12 mm wind protection plate
Galvanized nails with a wide head no less than 40 mm long or staples no less than 32 mm long are used (see Figure 3). The nailing distance from the edge of the slab must be at least 10 mm. Nails/staples are driven along the edge of the slab at intervals of 100 mm and in the center of the slab at intervals of 200 mm (see Figure 4). There are markings in the center of the slab to facilitate fastening. The consumption of nails is approximately 25 pcs/m2.
Attaching a 25 mm wind barrier plate
Galvanized nails with a wide head no less than 70 mm long or staples no less than 58 mm long are used (see Figure 3). The nailing distance from the edge of the slab must be at least 10 mm. Nails/staples are driven along the edge of the slab at intervals of 100-150 mm and in the center of the slab at intervals of 280 mm (see Figure 5). There are markings in the center of the slab to facilitate fastening. The consumption of nails is approximately 15 pcs/m2.
In the roof structure, the universal ISOPLAT tongue-and-groove board, in addition to the usual functions of wind and water protection, additionally performs seamless insulation over the entire area, insulation of cold bridges, directly wooden rafters, and most importantly for the attic, it provides effective sound insulation from precipitation, protecting the homeowners’ sleep. Also, due to its high energy intensity, the stove protects the attic from summer overheating.
In design roofing pie The universal ISOPLAT tongue-and-groove board takes the place of the wind-waterproofing layer.
Work order
1. Fasten the slabs directly to the rafters from bottom to top, in horizontal rows. Installation begins from the bottom row from left to right (Fig. 1). The thorn looks up. One sheet must cover at least two rafters. After finishing the covering of the first row, the cut piece of the end slab goes to the beginning of the second row (Fig. 2). Vertical joints of adjacent rows are shifted with ligation (like brickwork).
2. Install the sheathing. The sheathing is fastened through Isoplat to the rafters.
3. Further work is carried out as usual, depending on the selected roofing material. Two standard schemes with flexible (soft) tiles and metal tiles are presented below.
Between the wind-waterproof layer and roofing material(tiles) it is necessary to create a ventilated gap (vent) to allow moisture to escape from the roof structure.
Table with values
Roof slope - at least 20 degrees
The distance between the rafters is 600-700 mm
Ventilated gap - at least 20 mm
Fasteners - Fe/Zn nail no less than 3x70 mm
The distance from the edge is 35 mm (so as not to damage the tongue and groove)
Fastening pitch - along the edge 100-150 mm, in the center 200 mm
Fastener consumption - 18 pcs/sheet
Sealing of extreme joints - bitumen-rubber tape, polyurethane sealant
Before installation, it is recommended to unpack the ISOPLAT substrate and keep it for 24 hours in the same room where they will be installed so that the humidity of the slab is equal to the humidity of the surrounding air. This will reduce the subsequent “play” of the slabs after they are installed. To do this, the plates are installed at the end, and strips are installed between them to ensure air movement.
The sheets of the substrate are laid on the main surface (subfloor) next to each other, and an expansion gap of 5-10 mm is left between the wall and the slabs. For this purpose, cut pieces of the substrate are suitable, which are removed after laying and securing the slabs. It is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm between the plates. If necessary (for example, under linoleum), the sheets can be attached to the main surface either by gluing at several points, or with staples or nails.
The underlay is laid at an angle of 45° relative to the joints of the floor coverings. This prevents the joints of the laminate or parquet board with the joints of the substrate. The laminate is laid directly on the backing sheets.
Since ISOTEX panels “breathe”, it is recommended to open the packaging and leave them indoors for 24 hours. For installation you will need a square, a knife, a tape measure, a pencil, staples for a stapler and the actual construction stapler. Used for gluing to walls assembly adhesive"liquid Nails". If the ceiling or walls are made of wood, gypsum boards or concrete without significant curvature, then ISOTEX panels are attached directly to the surface using glue or staples. If the surfaces (walls or ceiling) have large unevenness, a wooden sheathing is installed under the panels. The panels are easily cut with a sharp carpet knife along a metal ruler. Make cuts from the side decorative covering. Also, any woodworking tools are suitable for cutting: jigsaw, circular saw, etc.
Installation on the lathing
Used for lathing wooden planks cross section 19x44 mm. The planks must be installed in 290 mm increments (measure between the centers of the planks). The panels are fastened to the sheathing with 10-14 mm staples, intervals of no more than 100 mm.
Glue mounting
Apply strips of glue to the back of the panel at a distance of about 20 mm from the edges, and in the center of the panel - drops of glue every 200 mm. Press the panel against the wall slightly away from the adjacent panel and slide it laterally so that the adhesive surface is level.
Installation on the sheathing
To make the lathing on which the ceiling panels are installed, dry wooden slats 50-100 mm wide. They are installed at a distance of 280 mm between the middles (axes) of the slats (Figure 1). Attach the plates to the slats with brackets, making sure that the distance between them is at least 100 mm. The length of the staple is 10-14 mm. The edge panel must be secured using nails or screws so that Wall panel closed them. The panels are attached along the sheathing, and best result It turns out if the direction of lighting coincides with the direction of the seams.
Installation with glue
Apply stripes of glue at a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the plate and a drop of glue in the middle of the panel in increments of 200 mm (Figure 4). Attach the panel to the ceiling or wall close to the previous plate, push it into the tongue so that the pile of glue is smeared and press without additional fastening. Panels with a textile coating are installed with glue or construction clamps aimed at different sides. Detailed installation instructions are included in the product packaging.