Wall decoration with MDF panels in Lately is becoming more and more popular due to the fact that with the help of them you can quickly tidy up surfaces of a fairly large area. In addition, installation of the panels will not take much time, since you will not have to wait for numerous layers to dry, as, for example, in the case of plastering work. It also helps that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material is its quite affordable price.
MDF panels wall installation with your own hands, which can be done even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, they are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of carrying out such cladding, prepare the surfaces and pay attention to Special attention accurate calculations and markings.
The abbreviation “MDF” stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is produced, including wall panels. The production of MDF involves the process of dry pressing a finely dispersed mass of sawdust and chips, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, urea resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde by chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered environmentally friendly pure material, therefore they are not prohibited from being used for interior decoration premises. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood, but they have more low price than the last one.
Installation of MDF wall panels can be carried out in two ways - by fixing them to a frame sheathing or fixing them to the wall surface using adhesive composition type "liquid nails". This glue is used not only for installing wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, since it contains sawdust filler. If filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible areas of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected according to color so that the repaired areas do not stand out against the general background.
MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various types of wood or stone, so they can be matched to any interior design. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.
For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.
The panels are produced in different lengths and widths, so before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you will need to achieve.
To make your work comfortable, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, the tools you will need are:
To install MDF, you will need certain auxiliary materials. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.
Installation of panels on walls can be done in two ways:
Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation the basic condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels will stick to the surface, then it must first be leveled with plasterboard or the plaster-putty method.
To install the panels with glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is a composition of “liquid nails” and fittings.
If you need to level uneven wall using cladding with MDF panels, while hiding communications behind it or carrying out insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will remove all future surface in one plane.
The frame for installing panels can be made of wooden beam or metal profile. It must be said that it is easier to mount MDF on wood material, since nails or even staples from a stapler are suitable for this. When installing panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will no longer be possible to do without them.
When using a frame, a gap will inevitably form between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” for mold and mildew. Therefore, before installing the sheathing, it is necessary to inspect the wall. If it is wet, it will first need to be dried and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. It is still better not to install such cladding on external thin walls at all, as it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.
To install the facing panels on the frame, you will need the following materials:
Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If signs are found on it high humidity, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon and then try to eliminate it. There is no way to cover a damp wall with any panels.
If there are no such obstacles to the installation of MDF panels, then how to frame system, and for gluing, approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out. It consists of several operations:
If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then it must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space it can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality wallpaper that is difficult to remove must first be wetted with water or steamed with an iron, and then scraped off with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special compounds for.
If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or well-painted water-based paint, then cleaning it is not necessary.
In the case where there are mold stains on the wall, the surface must be “treated” - treated with a special “Anti-Mold” compound or with a regular concentrated laundry bleaching agent “Whiteness”. Before treatment, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment must be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus down to the base, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and thoroughly treat the main wall itself.
“Treatment” of affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds This work should be carried out in compliance with mandatory safety measures, wearing a respirator or a special mask, in order to avoid inhaling particles of fungus-affected plaster.
If, after removing wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning to place heat- and sound-insulating materials under MDF panels. Cracks must be sealed so that they do not become bridges of cold, and also a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or even mold can find shelter.
The cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ... In order for the putty or plaster solution to adhere well to the gap in the crack, it needs to be slightly widened and deepened. It is then cleaned of residues old plaster and processed with a brush.
... and then tightly filled with repair mortar After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with putty mixture or plaster mortar. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its entire depth.
The next step is priming the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the occurrence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.
Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall If you plan to sheathe wooden walls, it is recommended to choose a primer that contains not only antiseptics, but also fire retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of the wood.
The primer is applied to the wall using a roller in two or three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.
Next, if the panels will be attached to the sheathing, you can proceed to gluing the insulating material. Penofol, which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited for this purpose.
The most convenient to use is penofol with a self-adhesive base. Today you can find self-adhesive “penofol” on sale - you can very easily fix it on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material is not found, then ordinary “penofol” is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer to the wall surface or directly to the insulation. The “penofol” sheets are pressed to the surface, and the air is expelled from under it using a rubber spatula.
Gluing the joints of adjacent penofol strips with tape The sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are sealed with special foil tape.
If you decide to install MDF panels on a frame, you first need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the sheathing guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.
The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The pitch between the sheathing guides is usually selected within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly evenly.
To find the ideal vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which you can mark straight lines on the wall. If lines are marked on a foil surface, then immediately after marking, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.
To determine the horizontal I resort to the help of a level. The most accurate result will be given by laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use a regular construction tool, pushing the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.
Based on the markings, it will be quite easy to correctly secure the guide battens.
When marking, you need to take into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the remaining elements, maintaining the established step.
Wooden blocks, despite the marking lines, when installed on a wall are still checked with a building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled directly through the beams into which plastic dowels are driven, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fastening elements are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is selected so that they extend into the thickness of the wall by at least 50÷60 mm, and the thickness of the sheathing beam is added to this parameter, taking into account that the head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood.
It is more difficult to bring all the posts of the sheathing to the same level if the wall requires leveling with sheathing, and the bars themselves will have to be secured to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.
First, hangers are attached to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a spacing between adjacent ones of 350÷400 mm from each other. The shelves of the hangers are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.
Then the two outermost beams on the wall are installed, leveled and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.
The installed outer guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords at the top and bottom (or right and left - if the frame is horizontally oriented) - these will become reference lines (beacons) for correct installation the remaining guides in a single plane.
Metal profiles prepared to size are fixed to the wall according to the same principle as wooden blocks, but sometimes for structural rigidity they have liners made of timber. To secure the profile, hangers must be used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit closely to it.
If the frame is installed on wooden wall, then the hangers for attaching the sheathing guides are fixed on the wall using wood screws. If installation on another wall base is necessary, then the hangers are best secured with driven dowel-nails.
If the trim is attached to a wall that has a window or doorway, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the cladding will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and trims.
Before installing the cladding, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and secured under the frame, immediately determining the installation locations of sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.
Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked using a tape measure and a construction angle, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using a jigsaw, a manual vertical circular saw, or even an ordinary hacksaw.
Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from floor to ceiling, and the first panel must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the sheathing follows exactly the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.
The socket must be securely fastened and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure rigid support against the wall, it is recommended to additionally secure wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and switch is screwed onto the facing panels or to the corresponding sockets of the socket box.
It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels with glue than with lathing, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.
When gluing, the position of the panel must be checked by level.
— The glue must remain sufficiently plastic even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition must be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.
— The glue must have a sufficiently thick consistency so that it can be applied in a thick or thin layer, depending on the circumstances, and also be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.
The best option- “liquid nails” glue The “Liquid Nails” composition precisely meets these requirements in terms of basic parameters. The primer with which the walls are treated in advance will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will adhere securely to it.
The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels pointwise or in a “snake” pattern. Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then torn off. Having spread, applied and torn off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second and so on until it comes to the last. When installing the canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed with the installed tenon of the next one.
They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued with the same glue, installed on special fasteners, or screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall surface. Attaching skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.
Find out how to produce by reading the step-by-step instructions in the article on our portal.
Having become familiar with technological process installation of MDF panels, we can summarize their main positive and negative qualities.
So to merits Such finishing material includes the following qualities:
Disadvantages Such panels include the following points:
However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. Installation of such cladding can be easily carried out even by one person without outside help, moreover, having absolutely no experience in such work, unless, of course, he follows all technological recommendations.
And in conclusion, a small “visual aid” in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:
When traditional natural materials begin to deplete, as happened with wood, natural desire to minimize losses and put even production waste into use.
This is how analogues of wooden panels based on sawdust and shavings appeared - chipboard and fiberboard. From the "Mason gun" fibreboard was produced, which later received the name MDF.
According to the density of the facial layer fibreboards are differentiated by marking:
According to the regulations of the standard:
By appearance front surface plates are distinguished:
According to covering capabilities:
By finishing method:
In addition to synthetic films, films based on paper based and paper laminates.
Film coating not afraid of cleaning agents, resistant to mechanical stress, is resistant to direct sunlight, but increases the cost of the material.
The raw materials used for the production of MDF panels give them properties natural wood
, and by mechanical properties even superior.
MDF panels, like any material, have their pros and cons.
Obvious advantages of MDF:
Flaws:
Accounting for technical characteristics material and right choice tool is the key to success when working with this type of facing slab.
Selecting panels for interior wall decoration depends on many conditions:
Optimal choice - wall panel (780 kg/m³), in type and assortment, meeting the tastes and capabilities of the owner.
In rooms with constant humidity - bathrooms, indoor swimming pools - the material exhibits increased fragility.
MDF panels found their application in various fields, in construction, for the manufacture of cabinet furniture, in interior design, the manufacture of arches, partitions and much more.
Application of MDF panels:
The most common technique alignment and simultaneous decoration of walls- cover them with MDF boards.
Wall slabs can be attach to the wall in two ways:
The panels are fastened on a wooden sheathing made of slats with a cross-section of 20x40 mm. along horizontal joists using tongue-and-groove locks. Why hammer small nails into the corner of the lock groove. To ensure accuracy of work, a metal striker is used, which allows you to drive the nail right up to the head.
In order to install the panel on a metal profile you will need the following consumables:
Walls under MDF do not require special preparation, except, if necessary, to additionally insulate them.
The position of the sheets (composite slabs, slats) on the wall is determined.
Implemented marking a wall using a level, self-tapping screws and nylon thread for the UD guide profiles. Sections of exposed wiring are removed into the corrugation.
A frame is constructed from a metal profile under MDF:
Installation of MDF panels on the frame using clamps and small self-tapping screws, in the sequence: panel, groove at the end, fastening with self-tapping screws to the profile. Corner joints closed with additional parts from PVC.
First panel additionally secured with self-tapping screws in places that will be hidden after the work is completed: to the floor (under the baseboard) and the ceiling (under the decorative trim).
In this video clear example how to decorate a wall MDF panels with your own hands.
Mounting panels without a frame using “liquid nails” is even easier. The consistency of the glue should ensure elasticity of adhesion and filling in uneven walls. To successfully follow the technology, the instructions on the tube are enough.
Primer - required condition process. Glue is applied to the panel pointwise and in a checkerboard pattern.
It is necessary to glue in two stages: after the initial pressing to the wall, the panel is torn off (to weather the glue), and a second time (after about five minutes) it is necessary to glue the panel completely. The entire process is controlled at the construction level.
The panels must be cut evenly and carefully to ensure aesthetic articulation at the joints.
To prevent damage front surface when cutting a slab, it should be placed on the work table with the glossy side up.
For joining in wall corners use an additional element, commercially available - a special corner for external or internal corners.
Decorating walls with MDF panels is not a difficult task for someone who has experience working with tools and is not afraid to acquire new skills. The result will please you and your household.
Beautiful and smooth walls are the key to an effective renovation. In modern decoration there are a great variety of types and methods of finishing. And MDF panels are one of them. When choosing a finishing material for decorating walls, the question of cost-effectiveness, ease of installation and ease of operation always arises.
Along with paints, plastic, wallpaper and other materials, cladding MDF walls the panels are also worthy of attention. I will talk about this relatively new finishing method in this article.
Probably many of you have encountered the fact that when updating the interior of an apartment, you really don’t want to bother with the long preparation of walls and cleaning large quantity construction waste, and especially spending a lot of money on repairs. When there is no opportunity or desire to bother with painting or wallpapering, you can get by with wall coverings. This method allows you to level and decorate the surface in one fell swoop.
The wall is beautifully covered with many different materials. And this is not only drywall or plastic, but also MDF panels. Working with them is excellent in terms of speed and relative ease of installation. They look much richer than plastic ones, are more convenient in size and are just as easy to use in the future.
MDF panel is a board of pressed wood fibers impregnated with binding materials. Such a slab may not be covered with anything on top, or it may be covered with a layer special film and a thin layer of plastic. This is very environmentally friendly material, having all the properties necessary to create structures. The panel can be washed, it is quite durable and safe.
As for color and appearance, I want to say that today manufacturers offer a fairly wide selection of colors that imitate various types of wood, as well as bright and pastel monochrome options. So covering walls with MDF panels can easily cope with any design decisions. The size and shape of the panel can also be different.
These can be square slabs from 300 x 300 mm to 980 x 980 mm. There are slatted panels up to 300 mm wide and 3 m long. Such panels are very similar to lining and look good on the wall and ceiling. If you need to sew up a large area at once or use custom size, then sheets measuring mainly 1220×2440 mm will help out.
All options are generally up to 25 mm in thickness. This helps a lot to solve the problem with sound insulation. Therefore, MDF is definitely worth paying attention to when choosing materials for cladding.
The only disadvantage of this material is its relatively low moisture resistance. Therefore, they are suitable for finishing not all rooms. A chipboard panel is used only in dry rooms, such as a hallway, and a fiberboard panel is used in rooms with moderate humidity, such as a kitchen.
I will tell you in detail how to cover walls with MDF panels. Installation process wall panels It is quite simple and does not involve complex wall preparation. They can be attached to a prepared frame, at the same time leveling the wall, or you can use glue when the wall does not require additional transformations.
In any case, no matter what method you choose, you need to take into account several nuances. Before starting work, the panel must undergo some acclimatization. To do this, it is enough to hold it in the room being repaired so that a balance of temperature and humidity is established between the panel itself and the air. MDF is returning to normal and some expansion is taking place.
Before installation, the wall, as already mentioned, does not require special preparation. It is enough to clean areas with obvious waste old paint or plaster to get rid of cracks.
When installing panels, you must remember their physical properties and leave small gaps at the bottom and top. A few millimeters are enough. This is necessary to take into account their normal expansion with changes in temperature and humidity in the room. Otherwise, over time the panel may warp or warp.
When choosing frame installation, you will need profiles or wooden slats. When choosing fastening materials, you should pay attention to the complexity of the wall itself. You may need to navigate around many corners or ledges.
In this case, it is better to use mounting profiles (various additional elements), since their wide variety will allow you to do the work as accurately as possible, especially in the case of corners. However, if for some reason you decide to do without additional elements, this is also not a problem. All joints and corners can then be closed using a universal corner.
This applies not only to the frame, but also to the adhesive installation method. So, you need to install two skirting profiles (also called moldings) running perpendicular to the facing slab. This means that if the panel is mounted vertically, then the profiles are placed horizontally (near the floor and ceiling).
In horizontal direction mdf boards, the profiles are installed in a vertical position at the corners of the wall. In case of fastening sheet panels large area, this issue is not so important. After installing the first profile, using a plumb line or building level determine the position of the second extreme profile. Next, using the same plumb line or level, secure several more intermediate profiles at a distance of approximately 500-600 mm.
If sudden changes in the surface do not allow you to attach the profile to a level, then you can place it under it various materials. These can be wooden slats, fiberboard, plywood.
Intermediate profiles are necessary to ensure that the future panel does not bend under hand pressure. Therefore, adjust their number based on the area and evenness of the surface to be sewn and the thickness of the panel itself. The panel is pre-cut to size, taking into account the required gaps. If the cladding is made using slatted panels with a groove and a tail, then a J-profile is usually used as a molding, into which the first panel is inserted.
The tail is trimmed and inserted into the profile on three sides - one side and two ends. The side with the groove remains free. It must be attached to the sheathing or directly to the wall. The next panel is driven into the groove with its tail, and the side with the groove is also screwed to the sheathing. This is how all the panels are assembled.
The latter is trimmed around the edges by about 5 mm and first driven into the second molding. After stopping, it is enough to move it slightly in the opposite direction until it fits into the previous groove. When using other types of panels, they are attached joint to joint.
It is very important to trim the edges evenly so that the joints are even. It is better to trim thick panels using a hacksaw or jigsaw. The panels can be fastened to the sheathing with ordinary self-tapping screws or using special clips and clamps.
The latter option is especially progressive and convenient, since in this case the panel does not have holes and is simply fastened to the sheathing. Also, this method does not interfere with the elongation of the panel under the influence of moisture and temperature, and, if necessary, can be easily dismantled. At this point the paneling is finished and your wall looks even, smooth and beautiful.
The adhesive method of fastening allows you to do without installing the sheathing. The preparation of the wall remains the same. Even if the wall was painted with oil paint, it is not necessary to remove it. Modern adhesive mixtures I penetrate deep enough and allow you to do without this process.
The panels can also be glued to the sheathing. This option is relevant when the wall is very uneven and additional slats have to be installed to reach the required level. MDF glue is applied over the entire surface of the panel in the form of zigzag stripes.
Methods for fixing MDF to the wall and ceiling, what glue is used for attaching the panels. Attaching to a metal sheathing, and how to make a wooden frame.
MDF panels are attractive in appearance. A wide selection allows them to be used in various rooms to create a unique interior. They have many positive aspects and a minimum of disadvantages. However, after making the decision to cover the surface, the question arises: “How to attach the MDF panel to the wall”? The cladding methods are described below.
The material is made from fiberboard. By filing high temperature and the use of resins perform pressing of wood chips. This technology allows you to avoid using glue that contains toxic substances. Therefore, the panels are an environmentally friendly facing material.
MDF is produced in three types:
Material Features:
Negative aspects of cladding:
Despite negative sides, with the help of panels they create Beautiful design rooms, loggias and corridors.
There are 2 methods to attach the cladding to a rough surface. Each of them has its own characteristics.
Fixation on a frame base. The cladding is attached to a metal or wooden sheathing. To do this, you do not need to thoroughly level the walls, but you do need to make markings and prepare the material.
Fastening panels with glue. To do this, the adhesive solution must meet a number of requirements relevant to this work. Otherwise the panels will fall off.
The cladding is attached to:
The positive aspects of this method:
Flaws:
Knowing the installation features, there is precision in choosing the cladding fastening.
The wooden frame is constructed in a dry room. Treated wood is used for this.
Advantages:
Flaws:
Despite these disadvantages, well-treated and dried wood lasts a long time without deforming.
Metal lathing is made using profiles. They are used to create a frame base in damp rooms, because the profile is coated with anti-corrosion material.
Advantages of metal construction:
Disadvantages of galvanized profile construction:
To create a profile lathing, you need to incur additional costs.
The panels are attached to an adhesive base only when the surface does not deviate from the level and there are no significant defects.
Advantages of installing cladding with glue:
Negative sides:
To choose a method for attaching panels, you need to calculate and take everything into account external factors, such as humidity, temperature changes.
For the selected creation method flat surface using the frame, it is necessary to carry out a number of works in the following sequence:
Sequence of work using the glue method:
Properly done work will guarantee a long service life and a beautiful appearance.
Panels without sheathing are attached with self-tapping screws only to a wooden wall. If the surface is made of another material, there is no need to take such risks, because due to the movement of the soil and the movements of the building, the screws will weaken over time. The panels will become loose and lose their appearance.
Glue method. In this case, the surface must be smooth, dry, and clean. The rough base is primed and markings are made for the first panel. The material is cut to the required length. The glue is applied with a notched trowel. When gluing panels you need to use a level. Evenness is mainly checked in the corners. After installation, wipe the surface with a damp microfiber to remove dust and glue residues.
Each material used has its pros and cons.
Polyurethane foam expands when it dries. This may cause the surface of the cladding to bend. But, it will hold the rough base and panel together for a long time. If the material is damaged, dismantling will take a lot of time. It is used in damp rooms and during sudden temperature changes.
Universal glue - a type that is used that holds the rough base (concrete, brick) and wooden elements together.
Liquid nails - a product suitable for gluing wooden elements with other reasons. Has many positive aspects:
The negative side is that there is a considerable amount of it over large areas.
The glue must have the following set of properties:
Types of adhesive for installation of cladding:
The glue is applied in a small dotted line to the MDF surface, wait the time specified by the manufacturer (if necessary) and apply to the surface.
Errors in working with " liquid nails“—there is no need to wait too long before fixing. The grip will decrease. Further, if the product on the surface of the panel is not wiped off in time, the appearance will be ruined.
Errors in working with foam. You need to use a construction gun.
Fixing MDF to metal frame produced using clasps. They are attached to the profile with small self-tapping screws. When purchasing a kit, you need to pay attention to the contents. If the package contains not self-tapping screws but nails (for a wooden frame), then the “bugs” are purchased separately.
The frame base is no different from the sheathing for drywall. To do this, the surface is primed and marked.
The guide profiles are attached first. Everything is checked by level. NP is secured with dowel nails. They are also used to attach hangers for the rack profile.
The fastening step of the rack rail is 60 cm. If transverse ones are used for rigidity, their fastening step is the same. Clamps for panels are attached to the rack profile.
These are the main planks in the sheathing. They are attached according to the markings. After determining a single plane on the wall, the NP is fixed at the corners on the ceiling and floor with dowels and nails. The fixation must be mirrored. For evenness, tighten the threads and lower the plumb line. A laser level is also used.
The MDF is fastened from the corner of the sheathing. It goes in this order:
After the work is done, wipe the entire surface with a damp cloth.
Wooden sheathing is simpler than metal sheathing. MDF is fixed using tongue-and-groove locks. To do this, use small “shoe” nails.
Wooden slats are attached to the base according to the markings made. To do this, use dowel-nails - concrete, brick base, or self-tapping screws - wooden base.
After fixing the main guides, moving 40-60 cm from the floor and from the ceiling, attach horizontal (vertical direction of the panels) or vertical slats. The step between them is 40-60 cm. Each fastening will be checked with a level for evenness.
MDF is fixed from the corner. The first panel is attached with self-tapping screws to the wooden frame frame. Subsequent sheets are connected with clasps. The panels must fit evenly and tightly to the frame. If there are protrusions wooden slats, they are trimmed with a plane or knife.
An MDF ceiling is called a suspended ceiling. Because the best way consider fixation on a frame base.
The sheathing is made of wood and metal profiles. It is no different from creating a standard sheathing. The spacing of the slats is 40-60 cm.
After fixing the cladding, you need to glue the corners and dividing strips. They are fixed with liquid nails.
You must be careful not to get glue on front side material. The appearance will be spoiled.
If the mixture gets on the panel, wipe it off immediately with a damp cloth.
The panels are not washed with products containing acids. Powders are also not used.
The product should be used once a month general cleaning. Once a week, wipe the surface with a soft microfiber soaked in water. room temperature no chemicals.
Steam cannot be used. When directing a jet from a steam generator, the panels will immediately lose their original appearance and become deformed.
The panels are fixed to a frame base - which is more durable - and to glue - in rooms without fumes and sudden changes in temperature. Surface care does not require expensive products or effort.
Today the simplest and in a fast way To make the walls of your home beautiful and smooth, decorate them with MDF panels. This solution is, of course, not suitable for all rooms, but for corridors, staircases, storage rooms and hallways this material will be almost ideal. We will talk about it in this article, in which, together with the website, we will look at how to install MDF panels using frame and frameless methods with your own hands.
There are two ways to fix MDF panels on the walls - the so-called adhesive and frame. Both of these methods are good and are used depending on the circumstances. If finishing walls with MDF panels involves hiding any communications, then the frame method is used MDF fastenings. When it comes to finishing smooth walls, then the glue method is used.
Wall decoration with MDF panels photo
The very name of this method speaks for itself - to implement it you will need to build a frame, which in some way resembles the structure that is used for. The difference lies only in the position of the load-bearing ones - if they are installed vertically to fasten plasterboard sheets, then MDF provides for a horizontal arrangement of profiles. In this regard, the peculiarities of constructing such a frame arise.
In principle, at the first stage everything happens in a similar way - the plane of the future frame is hammered out, then guide profiles are attached along the perimeter of the wall, on the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. This is where the differences begin. In a given plane, vertical load-bearing profiles cd are installed not after 600 mm, but after 3000 mm, which is the standard length of the load-bearing profile.
Installation of MDF panels: frame method
This is done in order to subsequently install horizontal load-bearing profiles cd between them, the pitch of which is 500 mm. They are connected to vertical profiles using crab CD connectors, and fixed to the wall with the same U-shaped brackets.
Installation of the frame is the main work in the process MDF installations panels. The mount itself is more easy process, which almost everyone can handle. MDF panels are attached to the frame using clamps (special clamps). Before fastening it to the frame, the clamp itself is inserted into a groove located at the end of the panel, thus ensuring their reliable fixation to the frame. The clamps are designed so that they do not interfere with inserting the next panel into the groove.
DIY installation of MDF panels photo
Installing MDF panels on walls using glue is much easier - the entire installation process is greatly simplified by the absence of metal or wooden frame, the construction of which takes quite a lot of time.
Installation of MDF wall panels photo
Before we begin directly attaching the panels, let’s first look at the glue that is used for these purposes. Or any glue will not work here - you need a composition that has certain qualities.
Liquid nails for mounting MDF panels photo
The installation of panels using glue itself looks quite simple - its technology is almost completely described on a tube of “Liquid Nails” glue. It is not recommended to violate it. To begin with, the walls covered with panels must be cleaned of dust and dirt - in principle, if you are going to seriously engage in self-repair, then the priming process, which is performed to clean the walls from dust and dirt, and at the same time to improve the adhesion of materials, should become a habit. They always prime everything, everywhere.
Priming walls before installing MDF panels photo
After the primer has dried, the actual gluing of the panels begins. While it dries, you can do other preparations - for example, cut several dozen panels to size.
The glue is applied directly to the panel itself in a dotted manner and in a checkerboard pattern - the glue drops should be large. Once the adhesive has been applied, the panel is pressed against the wall, tapped firmly and torn off. This is required by gluing technology - you need to tear off the panel so that the glue is weathered and the panel does not peel off from the wall under its own weight. To speed up the process and make MDF installation It’s faster to apply panels with your own hands; you can immediately, one after another, smear up to a dozen panels, attach them to the wall and tear them off. While the glue is weathering, you are allowed to take a smoke break - after five minutes, the panels can be hung on the wall again and thoroughly slammed down.
How to glue MDF panels to the wall photo
It is easy to glue the panels; it is much more difficult to trim them evenly and accurately. In this regard, special attention must be paid to slopes and similar obstacles encountered on the way to installing MDF panels. It should be understood that the appearance of the room completely depends on the even trimming of the panels.
Installation of MDF panels on walls
Well, in conclusion, we will dwell on the main installation nuances that are typical for both methods of fastening MDF panels.
That's basically it. This is how MDF panels are installed. This process is neither complicated nor simple, like, in general, any finishing work, in which your attitude to little things plays an important role, which together have an impact on big picture repair. Simply put, there are no trifles in this matter.
