In the process of arranging a bathhouse, special attention should be paid to the issue of organizing high-quality ventilation. Without proper air exchange, it will simply be impossible to use the steam room normally. If desired, all work on installing the necessary systems can be done with your own hands. You just need to understand the order of installation and connection of the main units and do everything in accordance with the instructions.
Ventilation in the bathhouse is very important. To avoid lengthy and not very interesting explanations, you can consider everything using a specific example.
A bathhouse visitor stays in a room filled with big amount hot steam. A person inhales this vapor. It is known that people breathe oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. In the absence of sufficient air exchange, after some time a person will simply burn out.
That is why ventilation in the bathhouse should be as efficient as possible and made in full accordance with technology. There are several types of ventilation systems. Study the features of each option and choose the method that is most suitable for your case.
Ventilation systems are installed to solve two main problems, namely:
Additionally, ventilation ensures faster and better drying of the steam room. It is necessary to study the features of existing ventilation systems and understand the order of their installation in order to obtain the most efficient and high-quality air exchange.
It is important that during operation of the ventilation system the characteristic characteristics of a bathhouse are not disturbed. temperature regime. Air exchange must be organized in such a way that there are no disturbances in the distribution of temperature flows in the bathhouse. Cool air in the steam room can only be located near the floor. And the higher you go to the ceiling, the higher the air temperature should be.
Ventilation should not take away from the bathhouse fresh air. A properly equipped system supplies fresh air to the room and removes exhaust air. Errors during installation of the system will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences for both the bathhouse and its visitors.
There are several types of air exchange systems suitable for use in a bathhouse, namely:
Exhaust air is removed from the bathhouse through a special ventilation duct. The air exchange installation technology requires that the box be installed diagonally to the supply opening through which fresh air enters the bathhouse.
Take care of ventilation in all areas of the bathhouse, and not just in the steam room. The dressing room, rest room and other areas of the bath should also be well ventilated.
Quite often, bathhouse owners forget that the floor of the steam room must also be well ventilated. Such forgetfulness leads to very spoilage quickly elements of the floor structure and, in general, deterioration of the characteristics of the bathhouse.
Floors are constantly in contact with water. Without properly organized air exchange, the floor will collapse very quickly, and the floor covering will have to be replaced after 2-3 years.
You need to think about floor ventilation at the bathhouse construction stage, because... In a ready-made room, it will be much more difficult to create high-quality air exchange.
First stage. Make small vents in the opposite walls of the basement. It is best to provide these vents at the construction stage concrete base baths Creating any holes in already finished design will lead to some reduction in the strength of the building.
Second phase. Make one ventilation hole in opposite walls of the room being served. Through them, clean air will flow into the room. The holes must be through. It is recommended to close the finished channels with special ventilation grilles. Such protection will not allow all kinds of rodents and other pests to enter the bathhouse.
Third stage. When building a stove, make sure that its vent is slightly below the level of the finished floor. Thanks to this placement, the oven will also start working in exhaust mode.
Fourth stage. Lay it down floor boards. When laying them, you need to leave gaps about 7-10 mm wide. Water can flow down through these gaps. If the liquid lingers on the floor every time, the boards will rot very quickly.
Quite often, floor ventilation is arranged “according to Bast”. According to this technology, fresh air comes from under the stove, and waste oxygen is removed through an opening under the ceiling.
In accordance with fire safety requirements near sauna stove there should be a sheet of metal. It is near this sheet that a hole is created to supply fresh air to the bathhouse.
To provide such air exchange, a special exhaust duct is required. You can buy a ready-made box or assemble it yourself from boards. Inner surface The exhaust duct must be covered with foil. The size of the box should be approximately 15-20% larger than the diameter of the chimney.
Ventilation “according to Bast” is the best option for those cases when the stove is located directly in the steam room. In such a situation, ventilation ducts can even be installed directly in the brick podium.
Pay attention to the installation location of the sauna stove. If the stove is located directly in the steam room, it means that natural air exchange is present initially. You just don’t need to rely solely on it - such ventilation only works when the stove is running.
The most optimal option for installing ventilation is to install air exchange channels on opposite walls of the bathhouse. They should be at different heights.
It is not recommended to place ventilation holes too high. Although in most other cases it is recommended to make an exhaust hole directly under the ceiling, slightly different rules apply in bathhouses. If you place the hood directly under the ceiling, hot air will escape from the room very quickly.
For baths optimal height The placement of ventilation holes is at a level of 1-1.5 m.
There are several simple ways organizing effective air exchange in the bathhouse. Study each of them and choose the best one for your steam room.
First way. Create a hole to supply fresh air. It should be behind the stove, about half a meter from the floor. Make a hole for exhaust air exhaust on the side opposite to the inlet hole, at a height of approximately 30 cm from the floor level. Install the fan into the outlet.
The lower you place the exhaust ventilation duct, the more intense the air exchange will be.
However, there is no need to be too zealous either. Try to make holes at the recommended height, because... such values are the most optimal. It is recommended to close the holes with ventilation grilles.
Second way. With this air exchange, both ventilation holes will be on the same wall. Work will be carried out with a wall located parallel to the stove. The exhaust duct is created at a level of about 30 cm from the floor, the exhaust duct is created at the same distance from the ceiling of the bathhouse. The exhaust vent is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.
Third way. Do it for sauna stove hole for air intake. Place the suction duct at a level of about 20 cm from the floor surface. The exhaust duct is made at approximately the same height, but in the opposite wall. The exhaust vent is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.
Fourth way. This air exchange option is perfect for baths, the flooring of which is laid with slots for water drainage. Make an inlet hole behind the stove unit at a distance of about 30 cm from the floor surface. In the case of such ventilation, an exhaust hole is not made - the exhaust air will leave the bathhouse through the cracks flooring, and then vented to the street through a common ventilation pipe.
Fifth way. This ventilation is ideal for baths with a constantly running stove unit. Install the inlet channel opposite the stove, about 30 cm away from the floor. The hood function will be performed by the oven.
Thus, the procedure for arranging ventilation is practically the same in all the considered methods. Each of them involves the creation of one or two holes; only the location and height of their placement change.
You can also make the holes yourself. Brick walls they can be easily passed through with a hammer drill, and logs with any suitable tool for this purpose, for example, a wood drill. It is recommended to insert plastic pipes into the finished holes. Don't forget about protective ventilation grilles. You won't be happy in the future uninvited guests in the form of rodents.
Good luck!
To determine the value of ventilation in the bath you should know its purpose:
No or insufficient ventilation Unpleasant odors gradually accumulate in the room and the air becomes damp. There is no fresh air coming in, it becomes more difficult to breathe. There is a risk of poisoning from accumulating carbon monoxide. Without ventilation, gradually the entire warm air will go up, and cooling will accumulate below.
In saunas made of natural logs any cutting of holes to provide ventilation is considered unnecessary. The lower crowns of the walls are laid with holes installed, through which a moderate amount of fresh air passes. If you have a stove-heater in which the vent is also designed to vent air outside, you can limit yourself to its presence. Air is admitted through open door, a gap of 5-7 mm is sufficient.
Ventilation is designed for regular intake of fresh air into the bathhouse and outflow of cooled and humid air. For fresh air flow need to build vents. If they are not there, then you can use windows and doors. Exhaust also occurs through special holes; a furnace ash can be used, great importance in the outflow of steam there is a chimney. To ensure complete control of air exchange, the openings are equipped with shutters, which can be adjusted to stop or resume the flow and exit of air.
There is a large list of ventilation systems:
To ensure constant control over the speed and volume of incoming and outgoing air, dampers are created. It is advisable to make them retractable, opening them to the required distance. The length of the air duct is determined by the size of the bath, as well as the maximum volume of required incoming air.
When the room is just being heated with a hot stove, all openings should be covered. When the temperature becomes optimal for vaping, the valves are opened slightly and immediately adjusted so that the exchange of air does not change the temperature in the room. Both inlet and outlet openings should have a connector close to the same. To increase the flow of fresh air, you can slightly enlarge the outlet.
The supply connector should not be larger than the output connector. It leads to reverse thrust, which promotes the release of fresh air from the bathhouse, rather than its active circulation.
In a classic bathhouse, created according to the Russian model, no special holes are made, so air exchange should be done in a more natural way. Typically, conventional ventilation is used to introduce a flow of fresh air. You can open the door leading to the street and the window opposite it. Sometimes forced exhaust is used with the door open. To better get rid of accumulating dampness, you should promptly sweep away the leaves from the broom. Benches and other wooden objects that become very wet can be dried; sometimes, flaps of sheets are used. These procedures will not allow heavy steam to form and will remove unpleasant odors and decay products from the room.
After the bathhouse has been ventilated and dried, need to start steaming. For this in small portions pour water on the stones. The prepared steam quickly rises up and remains there for a long time, so it may turn out that it is already very hot at the top, but still cool at the bottom. If there is a strong temperature difference, you can wait until the steam drops or use artificial methods to lower it.
It is enough to work with brooms to create movement in the steam room, the air will immediately mix. Swings of a towel or broom should be carried out closer to the ceiling.
You can make a fan: on the wooden handle there is a loop of of stainless steel, on which the fabric is stretched. Horizontal or vertical movements are made by this device to move warm and cold air. Sometimes people start using it when making steam. To do this, one person pours water on the stones, and the second works with a fan.
IN classical schemes ventilation of the baths is expected air flow in the steam room from below. The hole is usually located below half a meter from the floor. The hood can be placed close to the ceiling by making a hole on the opposite wall. Regulation of the level of humidity and heat of the air is carried out by extending or closing the valves.
The best option, especially for a small steam room, is to create an inlet opening next to the stove. This is necessary to instantly warm up the incoming fresh air. This arrangement will not allow the formation of strong drafts and helps to avoid large temperature differences in different parts steam rooms Heat from the steam room can not only be removed outside, but also transferred to other rooms for high-quality heating.
Proper ventilation works by bringing fresh air under the box. Air masses leave the device through top hole. The steam room warms up quite evenly until the warm air reaches the bottom of the box. Hot air will gradually displace colder air, providing warming before leaving the room. The steam room heats up and dries out at the same time.
The ventilation channel is directly connected to the duct, the diameter of which usually exceeds the chimney by no more than 20%. With these parameters, oxygen fills the room rather than leaving it. There is no need for air flow from the underground.
The walls of the stove, if there is one in the dressing room, needs to be placed close to the floor. The shelves are not necessarily placed in a strictly horizontal position. They are able to slow down the rise of heat to the ceiling. To better absorb warm air, it is better to equip the stove with several chimneys.
Sometimes, when heating a bathhouse, it forms and lingers in the room. a large number of smoke. This means that the air inside the dressing room is colder than outside. environment. Cold air somewhat more massive than warm, so it often creates a shell in chimneys. In order to push out this air, you need to equip an additional door for burning ash.
Ventilation in the bathhouse using electronic systems carried out, if it is impossible to ensure good air circulation by natural means. Fans can be installed on both the supply and exhaust vents. They accelerate the movement of air masses, providing the room with fresh air and quickly removing humid air.
The design of this ventilation always includes exhaust fan. For air circulation, a supply air supply must be constructed. Sometimes cracks in the walls are used to bring in fresh air, or windows or doors are opened slightly. Dignity exhaust ventilation is a decrease in pressure in the bath. The action must be compensated by a constant flow of air from outside.
Ventilation with powerful exhaust perfectly removes harmful gases and moist air with an unpleasant odor. You can build such a ventilation system not only in the steam room, but also in showers, washrooms, areas with a swimming pool or in bathrooms. Typically, a basic exhaust ventilation system kit includes a fan and a duct. If the device is too noisy, you can use a silencer.
Installed according to the exhaust principle, however the fan must be placed on the inlet. When the supply ventilation system is activated, an increase in pressure in the room is observed, which must be promptly compensated by the release of air through the hood or gaps in the walls, floor, ceiling, vents, and doors.
Supply fans are not considered convenient if they operate at cold temperature. In winter, they supply ice-cold air, which must be additionally heated by pre-installed air heaters. If it is necessary to purify a large amount of incoming air, filters can be used.
Combination of artificial inflow and exhaust air is often equipped with recuperators, silencers, and filters. Additional devices provide comfort while in the bathhouse, while at the same time there is constant, good air circulation. In order not to worry about ventilation, you can equip it with an automatic control unit.
Creating a design for supply and exhaust artificial ventilation often causes difficulties. It is necessary to calculate the optimal air exchange in all rooms of the bathhouse at the design stage. The amount of air coming out must match the amount of air coming in. Sometimes air flows are not deliberately balanced. To prevent the spread of excessive moisture or unpleasant odor from a certain room, the pressure in it is artificially reduced. To do this, a hood is installed with greater intensity than in other rooms.
When arranging ventilation in the bathhouse, you should take care not only of the steam room, but also of other important rooms. To save on heating costs, you can use the warm air generated in the steam room, venting it through other rooms rather than outside. By adapting the ventilation system to specific needs, you can make the most successful option.
Without good ventilation in the steam room, you won’t get real pleasure from the bathhouse, and for people who cannot boast of good health, going to such a bathhouse is completely dangerous. In this article we tell you how to make ventilation in a bathhouse, and analyze the “classics without ventilation ducts”: how our ancestors ventilated the steam room and what it might look like in a modern solution.
In the classic Russian bath, two ventilation schemes were usually used:
Burst ventilation is carried out through an open door and window. We emphasize: we're talking about about a wet steam bath, not a sauna.
Building for myself Member of FORUMHOUSE
I had to quarrel with the customer and insist that an opening for a window be cut into the 500 mm thick wall.
To obtain breathing air in the steam room, a window next to the shelf and a door to the dressing room are enough. The window and door need to be opened between visits while we rest. Then we return to the steam room, close the window and door and steam again.
To dry the steam room, a small vent is made in it (there is different variants: some do it in the far corner under the ceiling, others, on the contrary, under the shelf). After use, the baths are opened:
This creates an air flow that ventilates the room and removes moisture from it.
In the photo: the bathhouse of our user with the nickname Vasisdas.
FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname KochevniK has ventilation in the bathhouse done like this: air flow is under the furnace firebox, exit diagonally under the ceiling. Usually everyone steams with the hood closed, but sometimes they open it “if the person steaming is not extreme,” and in this case it works natural ventilation.
When you want to freshen the air in the steam room after several visits, the hood opens and a shock dose of boiling water splashes into the heater.
Nomad
All the old steam is thrown out of the hood window. After that, I wave the doors a little, creating an additional flow, put in new wormwood, close the window, and the steam room is as good as new, as if they never steamed there.
There is also an interesting method of ventilating a bathhouse, handed down from our ancestors, which EsKor, a member of our portal, saw in the bathhouse of “one gray-haired grandfather.” In this bathhouse, the only specially made means of ventilation was an vent a meter from the floor, under the shelf. What is the point of such an outlet? It turned out that the gray-haired grandfather “refreshed” the air in the steam room almost in the same way as Nomad, only he prepared a bucket of water in advance. ice water and poured it onto the shelf either a moment before or immediately after a shock dose of water was charged into the heater.
EsKor
Grandfather explained that cold water, which falls onto the floor from the shelf, pulls the steam down towards itself, and it takes stale air with it and flies away into the vent. There is no mysticism, physics explains this matter well.
Cold water cools the steam, condensation occurs, the decrease in pressure causes an increased flow of air above the steam layer, and the steam literally falls from the ceiling.
It is clear that this method is not suitable for dry-air baths and steam rooms with a solid floor and no drain.
Let's look at how such a ventilation system works using examples of several bathhouses of FORUMHOUSE participants.
Here is the bathhouse of our participant with the nickname Vasisdas.
Vasisdas
Everything ingenious is simple! Heater stove, door, window and solid wood. Learning to use this is a matter of technique.
How a window is made in a steam room: a double-glazed window on the side of the facade of the bathhouse, a ventilation gap as thick as the wall pie, a decorative window on the side of the steam room. This avoids unnecessary heat loss and is simply beautiful.
Our participant has a nickname I'm building for myself a small combined steam room and washing room, 2.5 by 2.1 and 2.1 m high.
The ventilation system includes:
The top vent is always closed; it is opened only to dry the steam room after use. Also, our user sometimes opens it to create a softer mode for his wife and daughter.
All openings are closed during vaping. The height of the window is chosen well, the heat is not blown out of the steam room.
During vaping, two types of ventilation are used:
To dry the steam room, all openings and windows are opened.
I'm building for myself
Air from the street through the window of the dressing room goes along the floor into the lower vent under the shelf (draft), partially heated by the still hot stove and rises above the shelf into the upper vent. There is a draft under the floor from the vents in the basement. In winter, I close them while steaming.
Our user considers such “old methods” of bathhouse ventilation, without installing ventilation ducts, justified and quite sufficient for a heat-intensive stove.
This is how the ventilation in the bathhouse of our participant with the nickname Mikhalych Titov is arranged. The inflow is made through a half-brick hole in the side wall.
If you look from the street, it looks like this.
The downward branch into which the condensate goes is closed with a screw plug. The entrance from the sink is made under the stove.
When building a bathhouse, a member of our portal with the nickname Chagav attached particular importance to ventilation. In the relaxation room he installed forced ventilation (one supply vent and two exhaust vents), and in the steam room there was natural ventilation.
If desired, air enters the steam room from the street - pipes are poured into the foundation, and corrugated stainless steel passes through the stones of the stove. It opens and closes with a latch.
It is impossible to answer the question of whether plastic ventilation is possible in a bathhouse. Such systems have proven their practicality and performance in home and industrial environments, but the bath environment has its own specifics, which to a certain extent limits the use of plastic. When choosing plastic products for a bath in each specific case should be approached taking into account all influencing factors and possible consequences.
The bathhouse can use plastic pipes for ventilation in the bathhouse
Ventilation structures made of plastic elements have gained wide popularity in various fields human life. This is facilitated by their attractive appearance and numerous advantages over traditional metal competitors.
Note! The most widely used parts are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane and polypropylene.
The following positive aspects of plastic ventilation are highlighted:
Device PVC pipes for ventilation In order to decide whether plastic ventilation is suitable for a bathhouse, it is necessary to note the disadvantages of such systems:
Taking into account the above problems, we can conclude whether plastic ventilation is suitable for a bathhouse. The most extreme conditions celebrated in the steam room. In the Russian bath, the temperature is maintained at about 60-65 degrees with saturated water vapor. Such temperatures seem to be lower than permissible, but they are close to critical values, and at the slightest excess they lead to the decomposition of plastic. Thus, the use of plastic ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath is dangerous to human health. It is completely unacceptable to use it in a sauna steam room, where the temperature can reach 100 degrees.
Smoke from burning plastic is very corrosive and can lead to poisoning. In others bath rooms(washing area, dressing room, rest room) the air temperature is not high, and extreme conditions are associated with high humidity, which is not at all dangerous for plastic. Therefore, we can conclude that ventilation in a bathhouse made of plastic pipes is quite acceptable in all rooms except the steam room.
Important! Particular attention should be paid to the location of the stove and its chimney, near which the air temperature may be critical. In addition, fire hazardous conditions arise here.
Particular care must be taken with the location plastic pipe for ventilation in the bathhouse. It is better to place it behind a brick lining if it is located near the stove. The standard set of sauna forced ventilation includes the following main elements: fan (exhaust and supply); ventilation pipes and boxes; vents with plugs; connecting and component elements. Among the important components, the following stand out:
The basis of forced ventilation is exhaust-type fans installed at the outlet vent, or supply variety, designed to suck in fresh air from outside and form an air flow. Most commonly used supply system, and the fan can be installed alone to serve all rooms or several devices separately in each room. In the first case, a fairly powerful mechanism is installed, usually with metal blades, and the flow distribution then proceeds through plastic ventilation channels. Small fans in a plastic case with plastic blades can be installed in each room.
Plastic fans are used for exhaustion in the sauna. Plastic air ducts for ventilation of the type of bath in question are an important part of the system. They distribute the incoming air flow and direct it to the desired area.
Another option is to install exhaust fan not in the outlet vent, but directly in the most stagnant area. In this case, it is mounted at the end of the exhaust ventilation duct, through which polluted air is directed outside.
Plastic boxes and pipes are available in various shapes and sizes. They can be round or rectangular in cross-section, and smooth or corrugated in design. Most often, the incoming powerful air flow is directed into rectangular boxes and then distributed through round pipes.
Nuance! The corrugated design is used in places where pipe movement is required different directions, or to adjust elements to length.
Types of composite connecting elements of the ventilation system Air ducts have various sizes, which are selected depending on required power system and volume of incoming air. Round pipes for a bath they have a standard diameter in the range of 56-160 mm. Among rectangular ducts, the most common are air ducts measuring 6x12 and 6x20.5 cm. Corrugated elements usually have round shape, and the diameter of such a pipe ranges from 15-55 cm.
Plastic air ducts for ventilation are round and rectangular shape In addition to the indicated elements used when installing a ventilation system in a bathhouse, plastic parts are used that perform protective and regulatory functions. These include various dampers, hatches and grilles.
Plastic grilles may have different purposes. The following main varieties are distinguished:
Hood grates can be of an adjustable type Plastic hatches can be installed in powerful, branched systems to allow access to the ventilation line for inspection, cleaning, and repair. They can be mounted on the ceiling or walls of the bathhouse. Door-style flaps are designed to allow access to natural flow. They can be mounted on natural ventilation vents in a window or door. Standard sizes– 10x10, 15x30 and 25x60 cm.
You can install plastic ventilation in a bathhouse yourself. Main stages of work: production of vents; installation of fans; installation and fastening of the entrance box; installation and fastening of the incoming air flow branching system; arrangement of an outlet vent; installation of dampers and hatches.
When carrying out work, the following recommendations should be taken into account:
Connection diagram of the fan section in a forced ventilation system For installation work You will need the following tools: electric drill, screwdriver, grinder, knife, hacksaw, pliers and side cutters, screwdriver, paint brush, tape measure, metal ruler.
Before use, it is necessary to check the ventilation system in the bathhouse Plastic ventilation in the bathhouse can be installed in all rooms except the steam room. Plastic cannot be used in it due to the risk of harmful emissions when heated. You can easily install the system yourself.
Our website already has a large review material, so now it’s worth talking separately about the hood in the bathhouse: how it works, how it works and how to make it yourself.
Baths are built from the most different materials, each of which has its own specifics. This also affects ventilation systems, having their own characteristics in each case. We will talk about their differences in terms of organization below.
Sauna or Finnish sauna differs from the Russian one in the small amount of steam (this is practically a dry bath) and high temperature(which can reach up to 130 degrees!). While in the sauna there is a clear rule regarding ventilation: the air should be changed at least 6-8 times per hour. And this requires good control of air flows, replacing exhaust air with fresh air less than every 10 minutes.
Ideal for a sauna (convection type). Let us briefly repeat that it operates on the “inverted glass” principle:
Flows are regulated using dampers that regulate the openness of the duct and inlet. An important point at the same time is Full time job oven, because it is it that performs the “pump” function.
And even if the hood in the sauna is done according to a different scheme, the task will remain the same:
The log house was invented long before the laws of physics on which natural ventilation is based took shape. Nevertheless, the builders of log bathhouses actively used these laws so that the owners of the bathhouse would not suffocate during the steaming process, and the bathhouse would last for the decades it was supposed to. (Of course, the hood in the bathhouse is made from a log will not save it from fire, but from rot - it may well.) In the log house, the air flow was ensured by lower crowns, which were deliberately laid loosely, that is, they had cracks through which fresh air was “pulled.” In addition, the door to the steam room from below did not fit tightly to the floor.
Depending on how exactly the log bathhouse was heated - “black” or “white” - it also depended on where the exhaust air went.
In principle, nothing prevents you from organizing the ventilation of a log house in the traditional way today. But decisions need to be made quickly, even at the construction stage. Because more modern solution must be included in the project. Alternatively, you can punch holes (supply and exhaust) directly to the street and equip them with plugs or dampers. One is next to the furnace vent, the second is above the top shelf on the adjacent or opposite side. Or make two exhaust holes - one above, the other below the top shelf. Another option is to make blinds at the bottom of the steam room door, and an exhaust vent under the shower ceiling.
IMPORTANT! If you don’t want to go outside, you can lay air ducts, but then instead of natural ventilation you will have to install a forced ventilation system.
A foam block bathhouse is no exception to the rule that you need to think about ventilation when designing a bathhouse. It's easier than hitting finished walls. In order to provide a bathhouse made of cellular concrete with sufficient air circulation, which will rid the structure of excess moisture, it is necessary, at the time of pouring the foundation formwork, to lay pipe scraps, which will then become vents.
For a bathhouse that is not located in a low-lying area and is not surrounded on all sides by buildings, two vents on opposite sides are sufficient, otherwise they are made of 4. Do not forget about the ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation.
The roof must also be ventilated, receiving inflow from the roof overhangs and releasing air through the raised ridge. In the premises, supply and exhaust openings are made according to one of the standard schemes.
If natural ventilation is insufficient, it is recommended to install fans on the hood of a bathhouse made of foam blocks.
If we leave aside the issues of ventilation of walls, foundations and roofs already discussed in other articles, there remain rooms - steam room, washing room, dressing room and rest room - where air circulation needs to be organized. At the same time, there are certain standards regarding ventilation in each of them and the specifics of the manufacture of the hood. But first things first.
For steamers, an exhaust hood in a steam room is a guarantee that they will come out alive and healthy.
IMPORTANT! You should not leave the steam room without ventilation holes at all, this is a big risk of burning or losing consciousness and suffocating carbon dioxide. You can't make just one hole- that's how ventilation doesn't work.
The method of ventilation of the steam room can be natural (due to the laws of physics) or forced (due to fans). The openings can lead to the street, into air ducts and into adjacent rooms. On ventilation holes Either blinds or dampers are installed. The air flow can be organized through the bottom of the steam room door, spaced 3 cm from the floor, or from the blinds at the bottom of the door leaf.
You only have to make the box with your own hands. Everything else (corrugation, valves, valves, flaps) is on sale. Fans (if needed) vary in diameter and power. For automatic control forced ventilation you can use a relay. Holes in the wall were either left during construction or made in an already built bathhouse.
Look how the craftsmen made a ventilation duct from boards:
According to the already mentioned standards, air circulation in a washing room per hour should be a multiple of 8 room volumes for supply ventilation and 9 for exhaust air. It means:
In any case, this is an intensive air exchange, which is intended primarily for quick drying of the washing area. It is not required during the washing process, so it is regulated by dampers.
By the way, supply openings can be made in the dressing room or rest room, and exhaust openings can be made in the washing room. This will allow you to ventilate two rooms at once. Similarly, the hood is done in the bathroom, and forced, to create low pressure. Then the air will be drawn out from neighboring rooms and escape through forced exhaust. Thus, the rooms are connected by through openings, which will be supply on one side and exhaust on the other.
Components of the hood in washing bath do not differ from those used in the steam room.
This has been said more than once, but it’s still worth repeating: the cost of installing ventilation will increase many times over if it is done late, after completion of construction. At the same time, the principle of creating ventilation in the bathhouse remains unchanged: it is necessary to create conditions for the inflow and outflow of air from the premises. So, how to make a hood in a bathhouse with your own hands or the hands of professionals.
There are many schemes, but to understand the principle of ventilation, just one is suitable. Most often, steam room ventilation diagrams are proposed, but the diagram for the entire bath, with explanations, is of much greater interest.
Look at the sketch. It shows that ventilation was carried out in the washing room, steam room and relaxation room. Moreover, the air flow is carried out from one pipe to two points, one of which is in the steam room, and the second in the relaxation room. The hood is located in the washing room, in the steam room, and in the relaxation room. Let's describe all the ventilation devices in each room:
Exhausting in a bathhouse with your own hands is not something that is impossible to do, but you need to approach the matter prudently and slowly. In order to make a hood yourself, you need to prepare the materials according to it. It is also necessary to calculate the cross-section of ventilation pipes.
IMPORTANT! The inflow volume must be equal to or less than the exhaust volume.
To do this, you need to know the volume of the room and the expansion factor (how many times the air should be renewed per hour) - it is in the standards. In main air ducts, the speed of movement should not exceed 5 m/s, in branches - 3 m/s, in the steam room - 2 m/s, natural ventilation - up to 1 m/s. Next in the table we find the value of the pipe cross-section that closest gives the required volume at a given speed.
Knowing the cross-section, all that remains is to prepare corrugation or pipes of the appropriate diameter, which are fixed at one end indoors at the required height according to the diagram, and at the other end they go outside. Self-tapping screws, metal tape and polyurethane foam. The openings are equipped with dampers in the room and grilles at the exit. By the way, ventilation cleaning should be done once a year..
Watch a short video that clearly shows ventilation in one bathhouse:
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Well, now you know exactly how to properly make a hood in a bathhouse to save yourself, your household and guests from suffocation in the bathhouse. All that remains is to correctly apply the information received.
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