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» How to properly make a frame from a profile for drywall on a wall? Metal profile frame for plasterboard - various design options Manufacturing a frame for plasterboard

How to properly make a frame from a profile for drywall on a wall? Metal profile frame for plasterboard - various design options Manufacturing a frame for plasterboard

Organizing the installation of a profile for drywall with your own hands involves carrying out a whole series of operations related to the preparation of a reliable foundation for plasterboard covering. To solve the problem, you can use one of the most common methods, namely frameless and frame installation technologies plasterboard sheets.

Elements of frame structures

The essence of the frameless method of laying drywall is gluing sheets of material onto an absolutely smooth surface using special gypsum glue. Modern technologies arrangement decorative coatings involve the preparation of a frame structure from profiles, which is then sheathed with sheets of plasterboard. To assemble such structures, special supporting profiles are used, as well as fasteners of one kind or another. In construction practice, there are several types of profiles used for arranging sheathing for plasterboard:

  • SV profiles (vertical or rack-mount) used for the manufacture of partitions;
  • guide profiles of the UV and UD types, used as horizontal frame elements;
  • ceiling profiles SD, intended for the manufacture of frame bases.

In addition, to prepare the frame you will definitely need the following connecting elements:

  • U-shaped hangers used to fix SD profiles on the mounted base;
  • cross-type connectors used for cross-connecting LED profiles located on the same level;
  • U-shaped connectors used for cross-connecting LED profiles located at different levels;
  • T-shaped hanging brackets with special clamps used for arranging the frame suspended ceiling.

Before installation profile structures The locations of the guides of the future frame are marked, which determine the positioning of the entire structure as a whole. After marking is completed, the guides are attached to the supporting base using dowels, and then connected to each other using self-tapping screws. Note that the preparation of the frame for drywall is carried out when arranging structures of the following type:

  • single-level suspended ceiling frame;
  • two-level suspended frame;
  • wall partitions with one or two rows of racks.

Let's consider each of these options for arranging the frame in more detail.

Single-level and two-level suspended frames

Single-level frame construction It is usually used in cases where, after manufacturing a suspended ceiling, it is desirable to maintain the given height of the room. During the installation process, the frame elements are attached to the ceiling base using special hanging brackets, while transverse guides are placed in the spaces between the main profiles. Standard LED ceiling profiles are used as basic guides, fastened together with cross-shaped connectors.

Installation of the suspended part of the system begins with the installation of UD profiles along the perimeter of the room on its walls (departure from the ceiling or depth suspended structure selected according to location). Please note that the correct installation of UD profiles should be checked using building level of one kind or another.

After the wall structural elements are secured, you can proceed to the installation of the main guides, the ends of which are fixed in the recesses of the UD profiles. After they are secured, it will be possible to work on the transverse guides, installed in increments of 40-50 cm. The main guides are usually installed every 50-100 cm.

The assembly of the frame for a two-level ceiling is carried out in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the transverse guides are transferred to another level. In this case, U-shaped connectors are used to attach them to the main guides at the intersection points. When arranging such ceilings, sheets of plasterboard are laid along the line of the main guides.

Frames for partitions

In this case, installing a profile under plasterboard with your own hands begins with installing and fixing on the walls the already familiar HC guides, which form the piping of the future partition. In the recesses of the profile strapping, in increments of 30-50 cm, SV profiles (rack-mount elements) are fixed strictly vertically.

In order to improve the sound insulation of the structure, the fastening points of all its elements are sealed with a special insulating tape. The double frame is made in a similar way, but in this case two rows of profiles are installed, then sheathed with plasterboard.

Video

We present to your attention a video about the installation of a wall profile frame:

Photo

GKL, like finishing material, is widely used not only for internal, but also for external work. But the technology for constructing a frame for drywall is somewhat different in different situations, the configuration of the profiles used in a particular case also differs.

Below we will look at the types of metal frames and lathing, and also watch a video on the installation of some of them.

What and how are frames for plasterboard made of?

First, let's see in what places the frame can be installed under drywall. The three main places where such a structure is installed are walls (sheathing), ceilings and partitions.

Each of these designs can be simple (classical) or have increased complexity, including niches, figures and arches, but this already relates more to the field of design, although, of course, it does not do without the technical side of the issue.

Related articles:

What are drywall frames made of?

  • Mainly from CD profile A frame is manufactured for plasterboard on the ceiling and on the walls (lathing). The galvanized profile is 60 mm wide and 27 mm thick (side height), and its length is either 3 or 4 meters. The edge of the side is profiled (this can be seen in the photo above), which gives the CD additional rigidity.

  • The UD profile is identical in length to the CD profile, but its width is 27 mm (CD is inserted according to its thickness), the height of the side is also 27 mm. It is used for edging around the perimeter, and also, if you are interested in how to assemble a frame under a wave, then the bending is done using such a profile or UW. The profile edge is not profiled.

  • CW profiles They are used mainly for partitions and have different widths - it can be 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm. The thickness (side height) is fixed and is 50 mm for any width. The length can vary, for example the CW-50 from Knauf can be 2600 mm, 2750 mm, 3000 mm and 4000 mm.

  • UW profiles are designed to hold CW and are installed around the perimeter of the frame, which is most often used for partitions, and if you are interested in how to assemble a frame for plasterboard for the attic, then this is just what you need. The width of the UW, of course, corresponds to the width of the CW and comes in 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm, all other sizes (thickness and length) are also identical to the CW.

  • To assemble the frame with your own hands when connecting the profiles to each other, use small self-tapping screws 11 mm long, which are designed for steel thickness up to 2 mm. The screws are screwed in using a screwdriver attachment marked PH-2.
  • Third-party fittings are also used for mounting frames, these are hangers various types, screws and dowels, as well as molly. When assembling structures, they can be used wooden blocks and boards for tightening, as well as thick tape for sound dampening (for example, on the UW or UD profile sole installed on a wooden floor, a strip is glued to prevent the frame from ringing).

Related articles:

Frame on the wall (lathing)

  • Now let's figure out how to properly assemble a drywall frame to level the wall. First of all, you need to determine the most protruding point of this plane and, guided by it, use a paint cord (chockline) to mark a line on the floor - it will serve as the boundary for the inside of the UD profile. Now you need to transfer this line to the ceiling - lift it along the walls using a level, and connect it on the ceiling with the same paint cord - you have a control marking for edging with the UD profile.
  • Now you need to screw the UD around the perimeter with dowels and screws. If the rough surface is dense enough (brick, cement-sand plaster), then you can use impact dowels, but if you have to attach the guides to limestone, concrete floors or lime plaster, then use a dummy dowel with a screw 1-2 mm thinner than the outer diameter of the dowel. Even if the instructions (sometimes included with profiles) talk about using impact dowels, still use the second option.

  • Now let’s mark the wall vertically every 30 cm - these lines must coincide with the central axis of the profile, so that for each whole gypsum board there are 4 load-bearing ones. Using these vertical marks, screw the U-shaped hangers 50-70 cm apart to mount the CD.

  • Now all we have to do is cut the CD profiles to the required length and insert them into the upper and lower UDs, and the side (vertical) UDs will serve as load-bearing profiles. To make the plane level, apply a rule or a long level across, taking the vertical UD as a guide (fix the profiles to the hangers and to each other with small cuts).

Advice. The frame can be insulated by laying it between the profiles mineral wool or polystyrene foam - the price of the structure will increase, but the wall will not only become warmer, but also will not buzz when accidentally hit.

Frame for partition

  • Now it will be clearer to you how to properly assemble a frame for sheathing with plasterboard under a partition, because the principle remains the same. First of all, use a paint cord to mark off the perimeter in the place where the partition will be located, and along this line, screw the UW profile of the width you need - exactly the same way as you screwed the UD for the sheathing.

  • Now all you have to do is cut the CW to the required length and insert them into the UW, screwing them in with self-tapping screws, as shown in the photo above. If you are interested in how to install a frame under drywall in a corner, you can use the same partitions.

  • If there is a door in the partition, then make a perimeter for doorway from UW, just put wooden blocks of suitable width inside for rigidity. In the same way, you can strengthen the profiles for hangers or wall cabinets, but still securing thick boards between them.

At any plasterboard construction The main part is the frame, which performs the task of support. The appearance and service life of the plasterboard structure depends on how correctly it is made.

To create a frame with your own hands, use special strips of plasterboard, wooden boards or metal profile.

Varieties without stiffeners and with them are used

Moreover last option preferable, since the metal frame is more durable and is not subject to humidity and changes in room temperature. On the building materials market you will find five types of metal profiles:

  • Guide. In this profile, the standard width is 50, 75 or 100 mm, and the depth is 40 mm. The width is selected depending on the thickness of the wall. Such a metal profile acts as a rail on which rack or ceiling strips are fixed.
  • Ceiling guide. By appearance and the purpose of this type is very similar to the first one, with only one exception - it is suitable for installing a frame plasterboard ceilings. This metal profile is attached along the perimeter of the walls.
  • Ceiling strips. Such metal profile elements are attached to the main ceiling using anchor clamps or special hangers. Thanks to them, the sheathing is obtained.
  • Rack metal profile. Suitable for assembling wall base or . Mount the profile on the guide rails.
  • Angular. Designed specifically for leveling or strengthening the corners of a future structure.

Markings and their explanations for profile types

Marking the base of the frame

After selecting the metal profile, we proceed to marking the base of the frame. First, mark the indentation where the frame will protrude. For walls they take 10 cm, but for the ceiling it is different, depending on what communications will be laid inside the frame. This could be electrical wiring, central heating or water supply pipes. For marking, a drawing must be created.

Creating the Frame Perimeter

After marking, installation of the frame perimeter begins. Here it is very important to ensure that it turns out even, so they will come to the rescue measuring instruments, such as a tracer, laser level and tape measure. As a result of this stage of creating the frame, a perfectly even rectangle is obtained, along the edges of which the starting profile.


Ready frame

Direct assembly of the frame

When the perimeter has been calculated and mounted into the wall, they begin to assemble the frame. The metal profile is attached using dowels or self-tapping screws, while dowels are best used on stone walls, and self-tapping screws on wood surfaces. After this, the main profile is attached to the hangers, which is inserted into the starting one. To make the design reliable, it is better to use checkered technology, that is, first install a transverse profile, and then perpendicular to it - a longitudinal one.

Errors that occur when creating a frame from a metal profile

  • Failure to comply with frame installation technology

If you deviate from the generally accepted and developed technology for installing the frame, you can get a short-lived structure, or damage the materials so that they cannot be used in the future. This is especially true on curved surfaces. Remember that during installation the metal profile must be positioned with the smooth side down, since sheets of drywall are attached to it.


Frame for a figured structure
  • Errors during profile cutting

The saying “measure twice and cut once” is relevant here, because if the profile is cut to the wrong size or crooked, the frame design will not fit together. In the end, it will either turn out very flimsy, or it won’t work at all. Therefore, special equipment is used for these purposes, but remember - use an angular grinding machine(in other words, an angle grinder) is absolutely not allowed.

The cutting element of the tool rotates quite quickly, as a result of which the metal heats up, the galvanization melts and in the future corrosion will occur in this place. It is better to use special metal scissors, electric or manual. Cut as carefully as possible so as not to damage the opposite shelf, since this is where the drywall will be attached.

  • Incorrect profile selection

When purchasing building materials, choose the types that are suitable for the required purposes. For example, the wall frame cannot be made from ceiling profiles, and vice versa.


A poorly made design will quickly become unusable

You cannot use a rack-mount one instead of a guide, and so on. If this condition is violated, then no one guarantees that the frame will be reliable and stable, and the structure itself, covered with plasterboard, will cope with its tasks, which include a soundproofing function.

  • No hangers

On difficult surfaces, many builders decide not to install hangers, but this blunder, which will cause the structure to begin to collapse over time. This happens due to the fact that the metal profiles are connected to each other rigidly and without an interlayer. After some time, cracks will certainly appear in such a ceiling or plasterboard wall. Keep in mind that the distance between the profiles should be the same, approximately 50 cm, for greater reliability.


The use of hangers is mandatory
  • Bending a metal profile

Metallopophile is not the same construction material, which can be bent, then straightened and installation can begin.

Such manipulations damage the integrity, as a result of which it loses rigidity and cannot guarantee the reliability of the future frame.

  • Installation of plasterboard sheets with the back side

Such an error will also lead to the structure quickly failing. The reason is that drywall is a moisture-resistant building material. Having mounted it right side, you will prevent the sheet from getting wet, which means preventing the formation of fungus.


The sheet shows which side it should be attached to.

To prevent cracks and chips from appearing at the joints of drywall sheets, they must be installed correctly. To have fewer joints, it is better to use large sheets.

In contact with

Drywall is an excellent solution for decorating premises: finishing walls, ceilings, making interior partitions and arches. To do this, you need to build a frame for drywall, and this design will allow you to level out large uneven walls.

The base is most often made of metal, but installation of wood is allowed. Often used in wooden house for surface finishing. To assemble the profile yourself, all work can be divided into several stages.

Required tools and materials

Before starting work in a wooden house, you need to purchase the following tools:

  • perforator;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • construction level;
  • pencil;
  • plumb line with a load;
  • ruler;
  • dowels;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • metal profiles(UD guides and CD carriers);
  • connectors (straight and cross-shaped). Straight is used to extend the carrier CD, and cross-shaped is used for cross-shaped connections;
  • hangers required for fastening load-bearing profiles.
Accessories for drywall installation

By doing wooden frame, you will additionally need a hacksaw for wood carving, and the materials you will need are wooden blocks. For a metal frame you will need steel elements and guides.

Preparatory work

Installation in a wooden house begins with drawing up the necessary drawings and diagrams. The areas on which the structure will be built are drawn on a sheet of paper. The frame can be mounted on the ceiling or walls. It is installed to mount lamps or to make a double ceiling. The bases allow you to create niches in the walls or level the surface. Greenhouses are often created from metal profiles.

Possible base options are shown in the photo. When the installation locations are determined, the future structure is marked.


Scheme for laying gypsum boards on a profile
Drawing of a plasterboard ceiling

Where can the frame be mounted?

Due to the fact that the drywall frame allows you to level the surface, the scope of its use is very wide. It can be applied to the ceiling and walls indoors, making it beautiful decorative shelves or a niche, an arch, or even make a greenhouse thanks to such a frame.

To the ceiling

If you plan to mount the frame under drywall on ceiling surface and walls, then you should start from the ceiling. The marking of the future frame for plasterboard on the ceiling is done from the lowest place using a tape measure (the diagram shows the marking in more detail). For more accurate measurements, you can use a laser level.


Marking the base with a hydraulic level

Tip: the ceiling in the house must be wired before installing the structure. After all, after installing the plasterboard sheets, this will be much more difficult to accomplish.

After measurements, installation of the metal profile on the ceiling is carried out:

  • hangers are installed for fastening with dowels and screws. Make a step of approximately 60 cm. During installation two-level ceiling There are 2 rows of suspensions, which are located at different heights;
  • guides are installed. They are installed on marks around the perimeter of the room;
  • with threads that are attached to the profile, the ceiling is conventionally divided into squares measuring 0.5 × 0.5 m;
  • are installed load-bearing elements along the marked threads. They are inserted into the profile guides and attached to the hangers with screws;
  • Use crab connectors to fasten profiles crosswise. For a two-level ceiling, two-level connectors are used.

Frame diagram for a plasterboard ceiling

The frame of profiles for plasterboard for the ceiling is ready. After this, you can attach the material to the structure. In the photo you can see the finished frames.


Wooden frame for drywall
Metal frame for the ceiling

Installation technology wooden version for a ceiling similar to a metal one:

  • metal suspensions are attached to the ceiling;
  • prepare wooden slats cross section 5x4 cm. It is recommended to make a structure from bars only after processing them protective agent from moisture;
  • slats are attached along the perimeter of the room (under the ceiling) according to the marks;
  • Threads are attached between the slats for orientation when installing the sheathing;
  • using self-tapping screws, a sheathing of slats is installed. The bars are laid out between the slats.

When carrying out installation, wooden blocks are first attached to hangers at the edges. And then in the middle. When the structure is ready, installation is carried out on drywall.

On the walls

After the ceiling is ready, you can start working on the walls. The technology is similar to installing profiles on the ceiling. The same tools and materials are used. To install a metal frame under plasterboard on a wall in a wooden house, you need to follow the instructions:

  • guides are installed along the perimeter of the wall (the upper and lower ones are attached to the ceiling surface and floor);
  • The guides are marked using thread. The distance should be greater than for the ceiling - 0.6 m;
  • into the lower guide profile - at the bottom and at the top, the load-bearing profile is inserted and secured with brackets to the wall. The brackets are located in 0.6 m increments (the photo shows the wall mounting diagram).

Wooden box for drywall
Metal frame on the wall

If there is a window or doorway in the wall, then you need to use additional profile for constructing a frame for plasterboard on the wall. The UD profile is mounted around the perimeter of the window. Next, profiles are attached above the window, which go above and below the window (bottom). The finished frame can be finished with prepared material.

Tip: the plasterboard should be screwed around the entire perimeter, otherwise it may lead to deformation. Therefore, it is imperative to use a profile around the window.

Partitions and niches for drywall

Installation of the partition begins with the selection of profiles. Guides and load-bearing components must be chosen larger in size than for wall structures. After all, the guide components are attached only to the ceiling and floor. Therefore, the frame under must be strong and stable.


Diagram of a wooden frame for a plasterboard partition

Installation of a partition in the house:

  • UD metal guides are mounted to the ceiling and floor;
  • load-bearing vertical CDs are installed in increments of 0.4 m;
  • wooden blocks are installed around the perimeter where the opening for the door will be located. This will allow it to be securely fastened.

The partition for drywall is ready. The basis for the niches involves the use of guides and load-bearing profiles, such as those used for walls. To build niches and shelves in the wall, you can show your imagination: use UD guides adjacent to each other using a jumper. For curved corners, twisted UDs are used. For UD shelves, they are connected by carriers.


Metal carcass interior partition
Shelves made of profiles in unsheathed gypsum board form

When constructing any structure for the ceiling surface or walls, you need to ensure strength. After all, this frame must withstand the loads placed on it.

Arch for plasterboard

In order to do beautiful arch in the place where the door is installed, you can use the installation of metal profiles under the drywall. Most often, semicircular or oval arches without an angle are used. But original version is pointed gothic. In this case, you cannot do without using an angle, because it is pointed upward.

But an ordinary semicircular arch without an angle will be considered. Step-by-step manufacturing technology:

  • dismantle the old opening;
  • clear out old surface, remove dirt and dust;
  • The desired arch is cut out of plasterboard in duplicate. Then it is applied to the top of the opening, marks are made for the future structure (the starting points of the arch are marked);
  • the profile is installed on top part doors where the arch will be mounted. You should get the letter “P” outside and inside the opening;
  • then 2 profiles are taken and cuts are made on them with scissors. They need to be attached to the drywall along the radius edge;
  • screw the curved components to the structure on the door;
  • make stiffening ribs for the resulting arches using profiles.

Metal frame for a plasterboard arch

The frame for the arch is ready. All that remains is to attach the material to the structure and do the finishing work.

Greenhouse frame under plasterboard

Greenhouse installation consists of several stages:

  • drawing up a drawing;
  • procurement of materials;
  • preparation of the territory.

After determining the size and design of the future greenhouse, you need to calculate the required amount of materials. Metal profiles are used for this. Then you need to clear the area of ​​debris. The next step will be pouring the foundation (it is preferable to use a shallow strip foundation).

Construction of the frame for the greenhouse begins after everything is ready. The components used are the same as for installing the partition. Technology of work for the base of the greenhouse:

  • the frame for plasterboard is assembled from guides and load-bearing elements according to the drawing;
  • weld the hinges for the door to the profile;
  • assemble a door for a greenhouse from profiles and hang it on its hinges.

The base for the greenhouse is ready and you can see how it looks in the photo. It is allowed to use a wooden base. But it is better not to use wooden blocks, because they will be exposed to moisture. But if the material is treated with a special impregnation. That possible problems destruction can be avoided.


Wooden structure under drywall
Metal frame for greenhouse

It is preferable to use metal carcass for drywall. After all, wood is not suitable for wet areas, and it requires additional processing before use. But if you need to minimize the distance of the sheathed surface from the wall or from the ceiling, then a wooden one will solve this problem. Although the metal frame is durable, wood is environmentally friendly material. Therefore, the choice is up to everyone. Installing a frame for drywall in a wooden house will allow you to install insulation into the structure, which will significantly reduce energy costs.

Smooth walls and ceilings look good with any interior style. The best material sheets of pressed sawdust bonded with plaster are used for leveling. For convenient placement of lighting wires and other systems, use a drywall frame. It allows you to install insulation. A ventilated gap remains between the wall and the cladding, allowing moisture to escape outside.

Smooth walls and ceilings look good with any interior style

What does a metal profile frame give when installing it?

It's time for interior work in my friend's house under construction. It all started with the question, why make a frame for drywall. Vadik and I walked around the future living room. The room is huge. The walls are uneven.

Requires installation of several various systems life support:

  • ceiling light and spot light on the walls;
  • decorative lighting;
  • sockets and switches;
  • heated floor system;
  • fire alarm;
  • heating pipes;
  • ventilation.

Installation of support profiles

If necessary, insulation can be laid under the metal profile frame. I made a 3D model of a room on a computer with systems of pipes and wires placed. The result was a daring loft-modern style with elements of brutal avant-garde. This definition was given by my friend, a supporter of strict high-tech and a fan of the classical style.
A frame made of metal profiles for plasterboard allows you to perfectly align the ceiling and walls. Moreover, all angles are right. Installation of sheets and modification to a state where you can paint or wallpaper is simple. All work is done quickly and easily done with your own hands. My friend, a scientist, far from construction specialties, learned all the skills in the first room.

A frame made of metal profiles for plasterboard allows you to perfectly align the ceiling and walls

Types of profiles and purpose

Before purchasing a metal profile, you need to calculate the required length of each standard size. To make it easier to understand the purpose and types, Vadik made a table after my explanations.

Profile name

Symbol

Section shape

Place of application

guide

Mon

U-shaped

starting, placed on the floor along the perimeter along the walls

ceiling guide

PNP

U-shaped

along the perimeter of the wall under the ceiling

rack-mount

PS

C-shaped with reinforcement

installed vertically for mounting sheets

ceiling

PP

C-shaped with reinforcement

on the ceiling for ceiling installation

corner perforated

PU

L-shaped

sealing corners

pendants

U-shaped planks

walls and ceiling, profile mount

crabs

figured cross plates

rack profile connection

Profile for drywall

The drywall frame is secured with self-tapping screws. TO concrete slabs dowels. The length of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the room. They hold the structure and serve as its basis. Rack-mounted metal profiles are required most of all. Its length is equal to the height of the walls. Installation is done every 60 centimeters. To this you need to add corners, window and door openings, crossbars at the joints of sheets. Don't forget about cutting.

Installation of a vertical frame, taking into account lamps, wiring and ventilation

The installation of the metal profile on the ceiling began with determining the gap between the ceiling and the drywall. It is necessary to take into account the space for wiring, ventilation and the type of lamps. Horizontal lines were cut along the perimeter and a ceiling guide profile was attached to the walls. It will hold the frame of the future ceiling. The ends of the PP are inserted into it.
In a friend's living room we made a multi-tiered ceiling. So we marked everything out and I began to assemble the structure. For a simple suspended ceiling, parallel lines are marked at a distance of 60 centimeters. Markings are made along them and hangers are attached in increments of 50 centimeters. The ends of the profile are inserted into the guides on the walls, and the frame under the plasterboard is mounted to the perforated strips of the planks. Each section is verified by level. If not laser device, then the outer slats are placed according to the markings on the walls and the cords are pulled.
Having finished installing the profile, Vadik and I made markings for the location of lighting and other devices on the ceiling. Wires were connected to them. We will be guided by them, sewing up the frame with plasterboard, and making in the right places holes. We installed the cross members using crabs in a checkerboard pattern.

Installation of metal profiles on the ceiling

We install metal profiles on the walls

Using a level and tape measure, we determined the size maximum protrusion and began to mark the perimeter for wall cladding. We immediately marked the locations of sockets and switches. We beat off the lines on the floor with a cord and began to fasten the guide profile with self-tapping screws. The bottom end will be inserted into it metal beams, it is the base for mounting the frame.
We marked the walls for the metal profile every 60 cm. The width of the plasterboard sheet is standard and is 120 cm. It should be fastened along the edges and the center. After this, we installed the hangers in half-meter increments. Vadik got the hang of it and easily drove the screws into brick walls. He confidently did the installation himself.

Frame made of metal profiles

The racks were screwed together. One checked the level, the second turned it. Then they installed the cross bars. The plasterboard sheet is 2.5 meters long. The height of the walls is greater. Where sheets join, they must be secured. Otherwise, cracks will soon form. The same types of profiles are used as on the racks.
Installation of drywall sheets on the frame is done offset. Therefore, one sheet is laid from the floor, the second from the ceiling. Then the remaining places are closed.

Laying drywall on metal profiles

How to trim openings and install racks

When installing drywall, cutouts are made in the sheets at the locations of windows and doors. The edges must be attached to the profile. Therefore, after marking the wall with vertical lines, a level line was drawn above the windows. This is the lower limit of finishing.

Windows and doors were made the same way:

  1. Additional racks were installed on the sides of the walls, leaving 5 centimeters for the slope.
  2. We measured and cut to size the rack metal profile that will be located above and below the window.
  3. The crossbars were secured using crabs. They were joined by vertical ones above the opening. We leveled it and screwed it to the hangers.
  4. The lower part of the rack was fixed similarly in the crossbar under the window sill.

The doorway at the bottom has a threshold, so the profile was attached to the sides and top.