Now we will show in all details the process of replacing an old Soviet toilet with a new Russian one. Look what we have at the moment:
The toilet is a Soviet type, connected to a cast iron sewer, buried in the floor. We will dismantle this toilet and put a new one in its place.
This three way faucet will be connected to washing machine and a toilet hose. Let's start by removing this old blue toilet.
You can see the numbers on the toilet: 1989 is the year of its manufacture. It is inserted into cast iron sewer. Our task is to break it there in order to remove it from the cast iron, and also to beat it from below in a circle in order to simply remove the toilet from the floor.
At the entrance to the cast iron we hit it with a hammer, and break it from below with a hammer drill.
The old toilet was taken to the trash heap. Now our task is to remove all the debris and free the entrance to the sewer from fragments of the old toilet and cement. We knock out the whole thing with a hammer and chisel so that the cast iron becomes clean.
They knocked out large pieces of the toilet bowl, plus it was sealed with cement and plaster, and cleaned the socket with a knife. The cast iron must be clean, without cement, because the cuff will be inserted here. If you don't clean it completely, the cuff simply won't fit. Try not to get large pieces of what you knock out into the sewer. Small ones are still possible, but large ones can do a lot of things.
Here's what we bought at the store for work. Firstly, 5 kg tile adhesive to fill the hole from the old toilet. Secondly, the cuff, here is a black transition to cast iron:
We will stuff this cuff into cast iron pipe. There’s also this short corrugation and eccentric cuff:
Let's see which of them is better suited for connection. The fact is that the owners bought this long corrugation:
These are usually sold in stores. If we put it up, the owners will simply press their knees against the door. Maybe the door won't even close. Therefore, we will install either an eccentric collar or an imported short corrugation. Let's see what will be better in our case. We coated the bottom at the entrance to the sewer with sealant so that nothing would leak from there:
Use a hammer to hammer in the black transition collar. After it stands up, you can mount modern communications. This is what it looks like with the cuff:
Now you can insert the 110th plastic modern sewer or corrugation directly into this black cuff. Everything will be fine. Now let's measure the corrugation.
This is how we will connect the toilet to the sewer:
The eccentric collar fits here fine. We'll push it in deeper and coat it with sealant to make sure - and everything will be fine. The eccentric cuff fits here perfectly to prevent the toilet from moving forward.
We take a marker and mark where the toilet will stand, as well as the places where we will screw the bolts.
Here are our marker marks. We measure the distance from the line to the toilet hole.
Here is the hole where the bolt will be inserted. We mark them on the floor, where we will drill holes for dowels. We marked two holes, one of them was in the pit.
We have an installation kit that the manufacturer provides for the toilet, that is, two short bolts and two 8 mm dowels.
All this will not suit us. One bolt, which is not in the hole, will still be of sufficient length, and the second, which is in the hole, will definitely be short. Therefore, we will use different bolts and different dowels. We have normal dowels from our stock.
One bolt, which is longer, will be screwed into the hole. Here are two normal dowels, 10 by 70 or 10 by 60. They hold well thanks to the protrusions, do not rotate, and what is good about them is that they have a wide entrance hole, it is easy to get into them with a screw. Now let's start the actual drilling. Since we will be drilling into tiles, and we don’t have drills or drill bits for tiles, we only have a hammer drill, we will drill gradually.
First, a five-point drill, we use it to go through the tiles, but we don’t drill into the concrete. Then a 6 mm, 8 mm drill and final drilling with a 10 mm drill. Naturally, we will drill without beating, so as not to split the tile. Then, when we drill through the tiles with a dozen, we can already drill through the concrete with beating. Let's show stasis the finished result:
The tiles are Soviet, they went through without any problems. Modern tile sometimes it can be very difficult to drill, sometimes you just can’t drill at all if it’s porcelain stoneware. You can’t take porcelain tiles without a drill on tiles. We quickly drilled everything, installed two dowels, now we need to fill the hole left from the old toilet tile adhesive or whatever you have: cement, cement-sand mixture. This hole is in our way; one side of the toilet fits right into this hole.
It happens that the hole does not interfere, then new toilet they just put it on top. IN in this case The hole is very disturbing to us, so we will cover it with tile adhesive. It turned out like this:
The hole was filled with cement, leaving only the place where the screw would be screwed in and where the dowel would be.
The preparatory stage is completely completed, we are starting to assemble. What does our toilet, the so-called “compact”, consist of?
Toilet fittings, which are installed in the tank, drain and filler:
And the cover:
We need to put all this together, then install it on our bolts that we have prepared, and when the tile adhesive dries, we can use it. Let's start assembling. We take a bag of fittings, this fittings are from Kirov, the so-called “Kirovskaya”. It is of normal average Soviet quality, works for about five to six years, then requires replacement.
Usually the float requires replacement, but the drain can also be replaced.
Let's start with the drain. This part is installed on the tank, screwed on, and the drain valve is simply snapped into it from above:
Fill valve or float:
Bag with all accompanying accessories. Nuts and gaskets for the float, for its installation, this nut is screwed here:
This is a gasket that is placed between the tank and the toilet:
Flush button and mounting kit for attaching the tank to the toilet:
Instructions, passport. Now we will show you how to mount all this fittings on the tank. Here is our tank:
This is a big plastic nut. The gasket comes here, it is inserted from the inside into this central large hole and tightened from below.
Tighten by hand and add a little wrench. This thing then just snaps on top:
Now we need to mount the float. Its installation kit includes a nut that is screwed from below, a gasket for the float itself and this filter:
Insert the filter here:
It will retain rust and various dirt that flies from the water supply. Then we insert the cone gasket with the cone down onto the float:
We insert the float into the hole, it is specially designed for it:
We insert it and secure it with a nut. First we tighten it by hand, then another quarter turn or a little more tighten it with a wrench - and that’s it, the float won’t leak. This completes the assembly of the tank.
The next step is to screw the tank to the toilet. These bags contain an installation kit for connecting the tank and toilet:
We put such a plastic washer on the screw, then we put a conical gasket:
We insert the screw into the tank from the inside into these holes:
We insert it so that the gasket is pressed and water does not leak. Thus we assemble two bolts. Then we move down. We put a rubber gasket on the bottom, then a plastic gasket, and screw it all in with a nut.
The most important thing here is not to over-tighten. If you overtighten, your tank will simply crack, and you will run to the store for a new tank. Now we will show all this. Everything is ready to install the tank, put the gasket here:
It serves to seal the connection between the tank and the toilet. Then we take our two ready-made bolts, which we will use to fasten them from below. We take the tank itself, install it, insert the bolts into the holes, and place them level. If you place them unevenly, the white gaskets may also be placed unevenly, in which case they will leak later.
So, now you need to screw this mounting kit from below:
First we put on the rubber gasket, then the plastic gasket and nut. We support the screw from here, we insert everything here.
There is no need to rush here, this is a responsible matter. The rubber gasket was inserted, the plastic gasket was inserted. Of course, it is better to do this work together, but you can do it alone. We tighten the nut as far as possible by hand, then tighten it with a wrench. Also the second bolt. To tighten the bolts we use a regular 10mm wrench and a 10mm tubular wrench:
In this case, the bolt heads are 10 mm in size. We do this: we place a regular box wrench on the bottom and tighten it with a tubular wrench on top.
You need to tighten it until the tank stops wobbling. You can’t overtighten it too much, otherwise it will simply crunch. Now we will show what happened in the end. Top view: one bolt, second bolt under the float.
Here is the installed float, the installed counterpart for drain valve. Now the bottom view: the lower part of the float, this is where the inlet hose will be attached:
One bolt with a tightened nut and the second, also tightened:
Make sure the bolts are tightened evenly so that the tank sits level. Here the distance should be the same everywhere, the gasket should be pressed so that water does not flow here.
We have installed the tank, let's start installing the toilet.
Naturally, our floor is uneven. We spread a little glue along the perimeter of the toilet along the mark to compensate for the unevenness of the tiles.
We take the toilet itself, insert it into the sewer, align it with the marks and screw it on. We press down the toilet a little so that the excess tile adhesive comes out.
This is how we placed it according to the mark, now we need to drive it in and tighten the bolts. It's done like this. Here is a bolt and a gasket so that the toilet does not crack if you overtighten it. Decorative hat on top:
Prepare a long bolt for the right side and a short one for the left. We are looking for holes to get into the dowels. As we have already said, we have special dowels, they are easy to get into.
Here is the prepared screw, on the other side exactly the same. Screw it on. We have a special tool for this.
Here's a ratchet for quick screwing, with a 10 mm head. There is also a regular 10 mm wrench, which we simply use to reach the right moment.
The toilet stands and does not wobble. The final assembly remains. What does this mean?
We connect this hose to a three-way tap:
At the bottom of the tank we connect it to the bottom of the float, then install drain fittings, lid with button, toilet lid:
That's it, the owners can use it. Of course, the cement must dry, this will take about 5-6 hours.
Look what a wonderful toilet it is, how wonderfully and professionally it was installed.
The last stage remains - hydraulic tests. We supply water and check that it is not leaking from anywhere. The leak can, firstly, come from the three-way tap where water is supplied, and secondly, from under the bolts that secure the tank to the toilet, from under the gasket between the tank and the toilet, and from the inlet to the float. Now we will check all this. Open the tap cold water– the toilet began to gurgle and water flowed into the tank. The float worked and the water pressure stopped. We check under the toilet, where we have two bolts. They shouldn't be wet. The floor is dry, the bolts are fine, the water supply is also dry. Now we flush the toilet and check that there is no leakage from behind the toilet, under the toilet and from the front. Nothing leaks anywhere, you can put covers on, and when the cement dries, you can use it. This is how we dismantled the Soviet toilet and put a new Russian one in its place.
All rights to the video belong to: Master Lancaster
Replacing the toilet may be necessary when changing the design toilet room or in case of a simple breakdown of a plumbing fixture. The work of professional plumbers is quite expensive. In addition, it is difficult to coordinate the time of the operation. To avoid such problems, you can change the toilet yourself. Read on to find out how to do this.
The toilet can be:
The choice of dismantling method depends on the type of installed toilet.
Before proceeding with the installation of a new plumbing product, it is necessary to dismantle the previously installed toilet. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:
The work of removing cement must be carried out extremely carefully so as not to damage the sewer inlet. Otherwise, when installing new plumbing pipes will need to be replaced.
You can begin installing new plumbing after the solution has completely hardened, which takes up to 7 days.
You can replace a wall-mounted toilet with your own hands: as soon as possible. To dismantle an old plumbing product, you must:
It is more convenient to do the work of dismantling a wall-hung toilet together, since it is impossible for one person to simultaneously loosen the fixing bolts and maintain the plumbing fixture at the same level.
The method of installing a new toilet, as well as dismantling the old structure, depends on the type of plumbing product.
How to change a floor-standing toilet and install a new product in place of the dismantled plumbing? The work process consists of the following steps, which are recommended to be carried out in the order indicated:
To avoid installing the toilet in the wrong place in the future, it is recommended not only to determine the area where the fasteners are located, but also to outline the body of the toilet leg with a marker. Additional markings will allow you to clearly install the toilet in the chosen location.
Replacing a toilet on video from step by step instructions The execution of the work is presented below.
Installation, subject to preliminary installation of the installation, is carried out in a few simple steps:
Knowing simple rules and the instructions presented in the article, you can replace the old toilet with a new one without any difficulties.
Capital or redecorating a toilet room is rarely complete without replacing the toilet, because the reason for this procedure can be not only its deplorable technical condition, but also its obsolescence. At the same time, people are interested in the question of how to change the toilet themselves not only for the purpose of saving money, but for the purpose of personal control of the quality of the operation carried out by hired workers, because A toilet is a rather fragile thing, and its incorrect installation may not be detected at first glance. The skills to independently replace a toilet will also be needed in the event of force majeure circumstances related to the performance of the plumbing.
Before you change the toilet completely yourself, you need to complete a whole range of preparatory measures:
After checking that there is no water in the water seal and the toilet tank, as well as preparing the tools, you can dismantle the toilet.
To change the toilet yourself you will need a whole set of tools:
The toilet is cleaned, the space is freed up, the tools are prepared - this means you can dismantle the old device and install a new one.
Important: In any case, the operation of dismantling an old toilet often turns into a “punitive operation” of an unwanted plumbing fixture. Wherein Special attention pays attention to the integrity (there should not even be cracks) of the sewer insert, otherwise it will have to be replaced with the possible replacement of the entire riser. In addition, it is unacceptable for ceramic remains of the toilet bowl or other large-sized debris to enter the sewer system. Therefore, hammer blows on cast iron, steel or plastic communications are not allowed, and the walls of the pipe are cleaned carefully, blocking the passage with a large polyethylene plug.
When considering the question of how to change a toilet quickly, but still independently, you must remember that the process itself may take several days, because one thing is replacing a toilet in an already renovated room (i.e., only replacing a similar device), and another thing is This is the refurbishment of a toilet with the installation of another modification of the toilet. Therefore, the installation of a new device can have two outcomes:
1. Simple replacement of plumbing fixtures with similar ones, when the dimensions and design for connecting communications are the same. To put the toilet into operation, it is enough to attach it to the floor with a specialized kit mounting bolts, install the tank with its secure fastening (do not forget to place the rubber seal correctly), assemble and configure the fittings for automatically filling the tank with water, connect the water supply and sewerage communications.
2. Installation of a new device with modernization requires preparatory work:
It is necessary to check and coordinate the selection of adapters on the methods of connecting communications, for which flexible water hoses and sewer adapter pipes with rubber seals are selected. It is necessary to pay attention to the length of communication connectors, which should not be small. To simplify the sewer connection, corrugation is often used.
The end of the process is the attachment of the toilet to the floor and its complete assembly with the connection of all communications. Organize the initial start-up of water by smoothly, partially opening the tap, because... Leaks may be detected, which will require immediate shutoff of the water.
Advice: To improve the sealing of communications in areas of prefabricated units, use silicone sealant, just do not forget that it takes time to cure, so you will have to wait a couple of hours before operational tests.
You may need to install or replace a toilet under a variety of circumstances: moving, renovation, or unexpected breakdown. If you don’t have time to wait for a plumber or want to save money, then it’s quite possible to do it yourself.
Before replacing the toilet, you need to make sure that everything you need is at hand.
Before work, remember to turn off the cold water supply and empty the drain tank. Water supply pipe and sewage pipe are disconnected.
The old toilet is unscrewed from the floor. If the joint has been coated with cement or glue, you need to clean it off as much as possible with a screwdriver or chisel. If the toilet is very firmly glued to the base, you may need to carefully break it with a sledgehammer. To completely remove all the water from the toilet siphon, the device is tilted back.
If others are planned renovation work in the toilet, then the toilet is installed after their completion. When replacing only this device, you still need to try to level the floor underneath it using rubber pads or cement mortar.
First you need to mark the installation location. Most toilets come with a paper template that makes this easy to do. If it doesn’t exist, then you can simply make it yourself, and drill holes along it and insert dowels into them. A thin layer of rubber is placed under the base of the toilet, the toilet itself is placed and the hex head screws are tightened. It is important not to overtighten them so that the tiles do not crack. The toilet must stand firmly, without swaying or moving. The joint between the toilet and the floor is taped silicone sealant to prevent water and dust from entering it.
The joints between the toilet and the sewer pipe with the corrugation are coated with sealant, then gaskets moistened with water are placed, and the pipe is attached to them. The end of the pipe can be connected to the toilet outlet pipe even before installing the device, this will facilitate further work in a cramped room. You can connect the toilet to the sewer inlet using only a cuff, if you place it close to the wall.
Toilet models come in 3 types of arrangement drain pipe: parallel to the floor, at an angle of 30-40 degrees and into the floor. The latter are rare and are installed mainly in private homes. When choosing a toilet, you need to take into account what type of connection the sewer pipe is designed for, then installing the toilet will be easy.
When the toilet is securely fixed, you can install it on it. A rubber trapezoid is placed on the platform at the rear, and the tank itself is bolted together using rubber washers. First, the bolts are inserted inside the tank, and then pass through the holes in the toilet and tightened with nuts from below. The drain hole of the tank must exactly coincide with the hole in the toilet.
The internal structure of the tank differs various models, and when assembling it, you need to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Finally, using a flexible hose with nuts at the ends, water is connected from water pipe to the tank fitting. The connections are glued with sealant or FUM tape, tightened with a wrench and checked for leaks.
After installation, it is necessary to carry out several test flushes to ensure that no water is leaking.
Advice. If you plan to replace a toilet in an old house, make sure that the water in the apartment can be shut off. Otherwise, you will have to wait for help from a plumber and turn off the water in the basement.
How to install wall hung toilet, .
