Even the smallest details are important in a bathhouse. Often in a steam room you need ladles for water. Their size and shape usually depend on the size of the steam room and personal preferences, but there are general recommendations according to their choice.
When choosing any accessories and items for the bath, you need to proceed from several criteria. You need to take into account safety, practicality, durability, and aesthetic components. Well, there’s no escape from the material side either: in many cases, the decisive factor in the choice is the price.
Wood is the most traditional of all possible materials for bath accessories. Typically, linden, aspen, cedar or oak wood is used for bath ladles. In order to extend their service life, wooden ladles are coated with a layer of wax or impregnated with linseed oil. But even in this option, they have a short service life: they darken or crack, and may simply lose their aesthetic appearance.
Wooden bath ladles also come in several types:
Metal sauna ladles are more practical, but in order not to get burned, the handle of such an accessory must be made of wood or heat-resistant plastic. The materials used for production are copper, brass or stainless steel.
A brass or copper sauna ladle is not a cheap pleasure, but it also has a significant service life. The stainless steel ladle is the cheapest in this group, but by no means the worst: performance characteristics His is no worse, and perhaps even better. Brass and copper ladle will oxidize and darken over time. Periodically they need to be rubbed to restore a decent appearance. Not everyone will like this procedure: sit and sand the surface with a soft cloth. No problems with stainless steel. They are like a Christmas tree: in winter and summer they are the same color. In the sense that they do not change at all.
From a safety point of view, bath ladles and metal scoops are not the best the best choice: They may become hot and burn. In a Russian steam room with its not very high temperatures, you will get a full-fledged burn if the ladle lies near the stove, but in saunas they heat up even from the air. In dry air vents, temperatures of 90-100° C are not the limit. And you can easily get burned with metal at this temperature. SO it’s better not to take metal buckets into saunas.
There are also hybrid buckets: a metal container is inserted inside a wooden bucket. This bucket is convenient, durable and practical. It is difficult for them to get burned; it will not allow water to pass through, even if the wood dries out. The cost is, however, decent.
A metal container is inserted inside a wooden ladle Most a budget option– ladle made of heat-resistant plastic. Relevant modern materials You can safely dip it into boiling water. The only issue is the issue of aesthetics, which is compensated by the low price and a decent margin of safety.
Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages, but any of them is suitable for use in a bathhouse, but there should be no glass accessories in the steam room (and even in the bathhouse).
If your stove has a remote one, or there is a faucet in the mounted/built-in tank, then you can collect water in a basin or bucket. If a tap is not provided, you will need to draw water from above, through a special hole in the tank lid. You will need a fairly large ladle with a long vertical handle. They are also called scoops because they scoop up water.
The length of the handle depends on the configuration and size of the tank: the greater the depth, the longer the handle must be in order to be able to get water from the bottom. It is convenient to have several of these scoops: if more than two people usually steam, then one scoop is clearly not enough.
You also need a special ladle for watering the heater in the bathhouse. These buckets have a long horizontal handle. Even small portion water falling on hot water causes the release of heated steam. If your hand is in the “affected zone,” you can get a noticeable burn, which is very difficult to treat. Some models of buckets have holes. Such scoops help to distribute water evenly over the surface of the stones if an open heater is used. How convenient it is to use them is a moot point.
You also need a ladle for dousing in the bathhouse. It is inconvenient to do this using a container with a long handle. The volume of the ladle for pouring is at least 0.4-0.5 liters. It’s also convenient to have several of them, depending on the number of steamers. This is much more convenient than waiting for your turn... If children will be steaming in the bathhouse, you can purchase several pieces of a smaller volume so that the children can comfortably enjoy the procedure.
An expensive ladle is hardly necessary in a bathhouse, but for those for whom the aesthetic component is very important, we can advise you to select a bucket and a ladle at the same time. If you purchased both a bucket and composite buckets - cooperage ones, it would be logical to order buckets of the same type.
For those who have both wood and metal in their bathhouse design, it is worth thinking about metal ladles with wooden handles - they will “fit” perfectly into this design option. If resources are limited, you can choose very good plastic accessories that will look good in the bathhouse, but when pouring water onto the heater with such a ladle, you need to be careful not to touch the very hot elements with it. For a heater, it is better to use a metal or wooden ladle.
For those who like to do everything with their own hands, there was a video on how to make a carved ladle. A special cutter with different attachments is used here, but if desired, everything can be done hand tools. It will undoubtedly take more time, but it’s hardly worth buying equipment just for a couple of buckets.
The second video is about how to make a carved ladle for a bath. Here the master works exclusively with hand tools. His dexterity is enviable.
Bathhouse is perfect place for relaxing alone, with family and having fun friendly company. However, in order for the bathhouse to be truly convenient to use, it must be equipped with a variety of accessories: hangers, buckets, lamps, etc. You can easily make all of the above and much more with your own hands from wood that is pleasant in its properties and easy to process.
Arriving at the bathhouse, the first thing you are faced with is the need to place your clothes. Nobody takes a steam bath dressed in the bathhouse! In a large rest room or dressing room, of course, you can put a full-fledged closet, but rarely does anyone do this, because... free space can be taken up with much more interesting and useful things.
The best solution to the issue of storing clothes and other accessories while visiting the steam room is a beautiful wall hanger. To make this attribute, you do not need to have extensive experience in carpentry work. Just do everything according to the simple step-by-step guide.
First step. Prepare a template according to the desired hanger shape. This product can have a wide variety of appearance, but the manufacturing procedure always remains almost the same. The template can be made from paper and then quickly and easily transferred to wood. If you plan to make several identical hangers, it is better to make a template from plywood or any other thin board.
Second step. Decide how many hooks your hanger should have. Optimally - from 2 to 4. Mark the places for attaching the hooks and drill holes in accordance with the markings. Also prepare the holes with which the hanger will be fixed to the wall.
Third step. Saw the blanks to assemble the base of the hanger. So, for a hanger with 4 hooks, a base measuring about 50x10 cm and a thickness of 2-3 cm is enough. Attach the pre-prepared template to the workpiece and start milling using a rolling cutter.
If you don’t have a cutter, you can simply sand the edges of the workpiece. If desired, you can round the edges of the base or give them any other shape.
Fourth step. Make hooks. You can use ready-made metal products and attach them to the base using self-tapping screws. But it is better that the hooks in the bathhouse are made of wood. You can take, for example, a shovel handle or a mop handle as a basis.
Cut the workpiece into the required number of parts. Make a neat semicircular groove in each part. A cutter will help you with this. All hooks should be the same length unless otherwise specified by the design of your hanger.
Fifth step. Grind the edges of the cuts made with sandpaper, or even better - grinder. For the base of the previously mentioned size, four hooks 4.5-5 cm long are enough.
Sixth step. Assemble the hanger. Pre-drill small holes for screws in the ends of the hooks. Lubricate the holes with wood glue and securely tighten the hooks to the base of the hanger using self-tapping screws.
Using these instructions, you can make a hanger of any shape and size, equipping it with the required number of hooks.
Do you want to decorate your bathhouse with a beautiful sign? No problem at all! You can make a beautiful outdoor or indoor sign yourself without much expense.
First step. Define optimal size future sign. To do this, first decide what exactly you will write on the sign, set the size of future letters, and also think about how many free space should remain at the edges of the inscription.
Second step. Start making your sign. A carved product is best suited for a bath. Use a board at least 2 cm thick. You can buy a beautiful blank in a specialized store or make it yourself. The best materials to use are fiberboard or even solid wood. If they are not available, plywood will also work. Sand the base of the future sign with sandpaper.
Third step. Transfer the outlines of the letters to the workpiece. To do this, it is better to first prepare a stencil on paper, and then simply transfer the letters onto the wood. You can draw the inscription yourself or print it on your computer.
Fourth step. Cut out the sign text using a router. You can cut out the space around the letters or the inscription itself. If you don’t have the proper experience, first get your hands on some unnecessary piece of wood. This way you can choose the optimal cutting depth.
Bathhouse sign “Oak leaf”
Fifth step. Sand the sign and proceed to finishing. At the end, the sign can, for example, be varnished, treated with stain or other compositions suitable for wood finishing. At this point, be guided by your own preferences.
Sixth step. Hang a beautiful homemade sign in in the right place. To fix the product on the wall, you can use nails, brackets and even a simple rope. Here, decide for yourself which mounting option will be more appropriate and convenient.
It is impossible to imagine a traditional Russian bath without a comfortable wooden bucket. There is absolutely nothing complicated in making this bathhouse accessory with your own hands. You just need to prepare the necessary supplies and carefully complete each stage of the work.
First stage. Pre-process the bucket bottom blank. You need to carefully grind off the end of the bottom in a circle. A stitch to a depth of about 1 cm will be sufficient.
Second phase. Prepare the recesses in the boards. The recesses should be located in the places of future attachment to the bottom and have a depth of about 0.4 cm and a width of about 1.2 cm. You will later install the bottom of your homemade wooden bucket into these recesses.
Third stage. Process the longitudinal edges wooden blanks using a plane. It is necessary to process at such an angle that in the future it will be possible to tightly fit the boards to the diameter of the bottom. Adjust the planks to each other. Secure the boards around the bottom with a metal hoop. For reliable fixation, a hoop about 5 cm wide will be enough. Place the second hoop about 10 cm below the top border of the homemade bucket.
Fourth stage. Make a handle. To make it, you can use, for example, a thick rope. Metal handles are not used in the bathhouse. They will become very hot in the steam room and may cause harm to visitors. If you wish, you can make a full-fledged wooden handle.
After assembling the bucket, fill it with water. Water will begin to pour out of the cracks - this natural process, because Wood needs some time to absorb moisture and swell. Very soon the cracks will disappear on their own, and you will be able to use the bucket you made yourself.
Using the same technology, you can assemble wooden troughs, ladles and other accessories necessary for a bathhouse.
To maintain the interior of the bathhouse in uniform style, it is recommended to make even such small things as lamp shades from wood. Even the simplest grille around a lighting fixture will add a special charm to the environment.
First stage. Assemble the frame for the lampshade. You can give it any desired shape. For wall lamps Semicircular and rectangular shades are best suited. Angular lighting fixture can be equipped with a trapezoidal or triangular shade.
Assemble the frame from wooden slats. Pull the base of the desired shape using any in a convenient way, for example, using corners or a tongue-and-groove connection.
Second phase. Prepare the slats. Select the length in accordance with the dimensions of the base. Round off the sharp edges of the slats and carefully sand the surface of the wood to give the shade a more elegant appearance.
Third stage. Attach the prepared planks to the wood using self-tapping screws. You need to fasten it from the inside of the lampshade.
At this point, the process of making a wooden bathhouse lamp is considered complete. All that remains is to put it on the lighting fixture. If desired, you can varnish the product or process it in another way.
The key to successful operation of a bathhouse is the presence of high-quality ventilation. Typically, the ventilation device comes down to creating a pair of ventilation holes. To prevent various kinds of rodents and other third-party objects from entering through these openings, they are covered with ventilation grilles.
You can make grilles for bath ventilation yourself, but it is best to make them from wood.
First stage. Assemble the frame ventilation grille. To make a frame, use wooden slats. Traditionally, gratings are made in rectangular or square shapes. Select the size according to the dimensions of the ventilation hole. It is necessary that the grate extends beyond the boundaries of the hole by several centimeters on each side.
Fasten the slats to form a frame. You can use any convenient fastener.
Second phase. Place slats on the frame. Select the number, width of the slats and the pitch between them so that the grille looks beautiful and nothing interferes with air circulation. Usually a step of 3-5 mm is taken. Use self-tapping screws to attach the slats to the frame.
Third stage. Fix the finished grille onto vent. Make sure that the grille is secured evenly in all positions. To attach the grille to the wall, you can use the same screws or other available fasteners.
Thus, in self-production Bath accessories are absolutely nothing complicated. We have presented to your attention instructions for assembling the most useful and necessary devices in the bathhouse. Follow the recommendations received and everything will work out.
Good luck!
Bathhouse is one of the favorite hobbies of Russian people. Taking a steam bath in a Russian bath is a tradition, necessary procedure and healing of the whole body. The owners of the baths try to create coziness and convenience in the interior spaces.
The ladle is an indispensable attribute in the bathhouse
There are few attributes required to visit the steam room. One of the important ones is the bath ladle or scoop. It should be easy to grip, strong in material, and able to withstand hot temperatures of water and air. The scoop cannot be taken lightly. A simple item is an important part of the entire procedure of visiting a hot Russian steam room.
Despite the similarity in shape, the ladle and scoop have their own distinctive features. The sauna ladle performs several tasks:
The most important requirement when choosing is the material. The best approach is natural wood. This product does not lose its shape and does not allow liquid to pass through. A special difference between the material is the aroma of wood. Natural raw materials emit a charming smell that relaxes the body and purifies the air.
It is possible to buy a plastic bucket. But it should be remembered that from hot temperature The plastic mass is deformed and may simply melt at high temperatures or in contact with hot objects.
Another option is metal. They are dangerous to use in a bathhouse: you can easily get burned from the heated metal.
In the photo - a metal scoop for a bath
Among modern trade offers there are combination options. You can find a metal ladle with a wooden frame and a handle made of solid wood. Such an item for a steam room will be very convenient. Metal, even if cracks appear on the wood, will not allow hot liquid to spill out. You can take it by the handle and not be afraid of burns.
A sauna scoop performs slightly different tasks: it waters the stove stones and adds heat to the steam room. The freshness and amount of steam depends on the scoop. Fans of the Russian refreshing procedure are advised to opt for wooden attributes. An oak and linden sauna ladle will create an amazing microclimate of clean and fresh air.
Wood is the traditional and most popular material for making ladles. Most often they choose linden, oak, aspen, cedar, and mulberry. Their wood is not afraid of moisture and can withstand high temperature. Finished goods cover liquid wax or a layer of mala flax.
They are made from a single piece of wood. They look in the style of antique utensils and will be ideal for creating coziness and comfortable conditions.
They are made from separate planks pressed tightly against each other. The technology is close to the creation of barrels. The planks hold their shape for a long time; if they dry out, cracks and cracks may appear. But it is not difficult to return to the desired shape. The ladle is soaked in water. The tree swells and the cracks disappear.
Carved ladle for bath
You can make a scoop with your own hands. For this, wood and a carpenter's set of tools are prepared. On paper you need to draw the appearance of the future product, a simple sketch. Then decide on the dimensions and complete the drawing. It is better to first consider the remaining actions in the video lesson of the masters. Then start working on your own according to the steps described below.
In the washing room and steam room it is better to have both products: a ladle and a ladle. They must be in convenient location, on special hooks and holders. There should be no obstacles to pick them up, take them out or remove them. Choose an open and accessible place. The choice should be based on the area of the entire building, the internal distribution of areas, and the material used.
Particular attention should be paid to the location of the heater. The best option– have several different buckets and scoops. The reason for this is that most often they wash not one at a time, but together or in a group. Several assistants will not delay the procedure for receiving pleasure. You won't have to wait for the bath ladle to become empty.
The scoop is selected according to the length of the handle. If the stones are nearby and closed with special flaps, the handle may be small. If the stones are open, close to the tank, you need to take a long handle. It is dangerous to throw steam with a short handle; you can get burned by the steam.
To choose a bucket or scoop, you need to know their features
The shape of the handle is made to fit the curve of the palm, for gripping with the hand. Its thickness matters. Therefore, one ladle is made for women, another for men. Small ladles for children. Splashing and steaming with your own ladle will not only be pleasant, it will become a kind of learning for the child and preparation for understanding the whole essence of visiting a Russian bathhouse, a step towards adulthood.
Other handle sizes:
This lesson was provided to us by a MASTER from the city of Syzran. It tells in detail (and shows - so far the largest master class on the site - more than 30 photos) how to make a beautiful ladle-mug from a log.
So, first we take a log and cut it into ridges of the required length. This can be done conveniently using a gas or electric saw.
We split it into two “equal cotyledons”. 
We draw out the working plane with a hatchet, if this is necessary, of course. We draw the contours of the future vessel on it and begin to remove excess material with it, first roughly. 
You can (and should) in some places, for example, at the ends, use a hacksaw, a jigsaw, or better yet band saw(if there is, we don’t have it yet)
We file the handle, leaving an allowance, and chop it off with an ax. Dangerous moment! If the fibers don’t go straight, you can even chip off half the scoop! 
Finer removal of material is done using semicircular chisels. 
On the resulting side profile we draw the contours of the handle and scoop. 
And one more shot illustrating both projections. 
Let's move on to processing the handle. Using the same chisels, we roughly remove the material, adjusting it to the contour. 
select a hole using cranberries 
What is not convenient to cut with a chisel is removed with a knife 
Now you need to connect the contours on the bottom and body. To do this, draw another contour of the narrowing of the bottom. 
I did it with an axe, you could use a knife or a chisel, it doesn’t matter 
Using a sharp knife, we remove all irregularities, angularities, etc., rounding off the shapes. 
We do this until it looks like this. 
Let's move on to choosing a bowl. To speed up the process, we’ll use 35 mm. The main thing here is not to drill through. 
Next, using a power chisel and mallet, we chop off the main mass inside. The chisel, like many of my tools, is homemade. I forged it from a spring, hardened it, and that’s how I use it. Fully working 
Gradually remove the material from the scoop. 
We take a narrower chisel and continue working. 
Using cranberry we go deeper into the bottom, cutting off the flat part formed by the cutter. 
We evenly select the material until it reaches this state: the walls are slightly translucent, the thickness should be left approximately 5-6 mm with an allowance for further polishing 
Here general form intermediate product.
We turn the ladle over and select a recess on the bottom so that it does not rock on the table. 
We remove everything unnecessary and this is what we have at the end of the first part. We URGENTLY wrap it in newspapers and a bag, otherwise it will crack!!! Let it dry. Then there will be sanding. 
That's it, drying is complete. Let's start sanding 
Let's start sanding the inside with this homemade device.
This is how it happened after 7-10 minutes of work, during the process I changed the sanding wheel twice. But you still need to work with your hands! 
Now let's sand the outside. Tape Grinder makes life a lot easier! 
We run the bucket from all accessible sides, with a belt up to 80. 
after processing with 80th tape it turns out like this. 
Now with your hands! Using sandpaper of the same grit, we smooth out the remains and then clean it with a finer one until smooth. 
Then we wet it with water. Raise the pile and sand again, gradually reducing the grain size. 
It’s convenient to use this sponge for this. I repeated the process 4 times, the result was satisfactory. You can do more, you won’t ruin the ladle with sandpaper! 
Now the impregnation. I use regular flaxseed from the pharmacy. Some recommend special bleached linseed oil, I haven't tried it yet. First we pour it inside. 
Oil appears at the ends literally before our eyes! Next, I thickly lubricate the entire surface and leave it in the sun until absorbed, then repeat the process. 
Soaked it three times. Then I melt the wax in a water bath and apply it with a brush. Then I warm up the mug (without fanaticism!!!) to absorb the wax, wipe it with a dry cloth and that’s it. (stormy applause turning into standing ovation) 
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