Compared with hand tools, a do-it-yourself milling table allows you to obtain a more precise degree of processing of the material. A rigidly mounted router confidently cuts various types of wood, plastic, and coated chipboards. It is possible not only to chamfer, but also to make a groove, a spline, a slot, a tenon, a groove, and a profile cut.
Eat different ways make a homemade milling table, but the design principles of most models are the same.
First, choose one of 3 types of milling installation, which determines the dimensions and location of this equipment in the carpentry workshop:
You need to develop a drawing of the future table with your own hands, already knowing the installation dimensions and the weight of the milling part (with motor). Section, location load-bearing elements must combine strength and easy access for installation and maintenance.
The working plane of the table ensures smooth sliding of the workpiece in one plane. Laminated chipboard and MDF sheets cope well with this task. To prevent the tabletop from bending under the weight of the router, take a slab with a cross section of 2.6/3.6 cm. For the side parts, a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 1.6 cm or more is sufficient.
The mounting plate on which a massive router is attached, by definition, has high strength and rigidity. Sheet materials suitable for it are metal, textolite, and hardwood plywood. The thickness of the plate does not exceed 0.8 cm.
The load-bearing support of the table is made with your own hands from metal profile, sheet chipboard. Sometimes these are just legs with elements of rigidity, in other cases the table includes front-mounted drawers for tools, small equipment, and utility devices.
The main part - the milling cutter - is purchased from industrial production.
Electric motor power for woodworking starts at 500 W. Full milling of hardwood requires power in excess of 1 kW (up to 2 kW). Voltage 230/380 V. Most models have speed control.
Creative use in milling design homemade table additional equipment allows you to significantly expand its functionality. You can achieve smooth adjustment of the height of the cutting part above the plate if you make a lift for the working tool with your own hands. For this purpose, the vertical axis of the assembly rests on a screw with a fine rectangular thread passing through a fixed nut. Rotating the flywheel on the rod regulates the feed of the cutter. The mechanism is equipped with side stops to prevent bending and a lock nut to hold it in a given position during vibration. If possible, they install more complex elevators - a car jack, tailstock from a lathe.
Another addition is a steel ruler along the longitudinal axis of the guides of the workpiece. Practical, convenient, allows you to control the sample size, frees your hands for other operations.
To make all the details of the milling table with your own hands you will need:
The use of electro-mechanical tools speeds up work on the manufacture of tabletops, guides, oblique stops, but, if necessary, operations can be performed with your own hands and hand tools.
The necessary quality that a table must have for hand router with your own hands - vibration resistance. Using used workbenches does not always solve this problem.
The legs on the side where the carpenter is located are placed a little further from the edge of the table (0.1-0.2 m) for stable placement of the legs. The control panel is also located here.
The height above the floor is set with adjustable supports in the range of 0.85 - 0.9 m.
The size of the upper working plane will largely determine the size of the intended raw material. On average, it is enough to make 1.5 × 0.5 m. Based on this, set the distance between the supporting places of the frame.
The router is brought to the tabletop from below, and placed on top mounting plate, tighten them with 4 screws with countersunk heads. The upper plane of the table should be without protrusions and depressions. To do this, the plate must fit into a pre-cut recess, which must be made exactly along its outer contour. Drill 4 through holes for the bolts. Additional fastening to wood is provided with self-tapping screws.
The shape of the plate is transferred from the lining of the router sole. The inner part is cut out in the form of a square frame with sufficient margins to accommodate holes for fastening bolts.
You need to make a round hole in the table board, large enough for the cutter to fit through. An opening that is too wide is covered with additional rings - liners to prevent material scuffing during milling.
The following devices on the milling table are designed to maintain the accuracy of milling processing and the direction of feed of the workpiece:
An additional option may be a pipe for connecting a vacuum cleaner, placed under the cutter cover.
After assembly, all parts are ground and working surfaces are polished. The sides and bottom are painted and varnished. Electrical part closed with a metal sleeve.
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Milling table will make your work easier and help increase the accuracy of workpiece processing. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a milling table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared quite detailed information for you step by step instructions for making a table.
The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and implement it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, you will get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.
Decide on the size of the working surface, based on the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small - build a simple countertop, incorporating upgradeability into the design. Work on it and little by little bring it to mind.
The simplest table for a router is a separate work plate placed on carpentry trestles or between pedestals. The device costs pennies and can be manufactured in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. All you need is MDF or birch plywood with a thickness of 19-25 mm. Better fit a plastic-coated panel that provides less frictional resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during use.
Set the exact right angle of cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to size and sand the ends.
Cutting diagram: 1 - main plate; 2 — support base; 3 — front wall of the stop; 4 — gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 — drawer (2 pcs.); 6 — side bar; 7 — connecting strip (4 pcs.)
Advice. Measure the thickness before cutting sheet material, often different from the standard. Amend the drawings to eliminate problems when assembling the structure.
Remove the plastic cover from the router base.
Draw a line in the middle of the slab and place a mark 235 mm from the edge.
Place the pad so that later the main router controls are closer to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the cover with the marked point and mark the locations for drilling holes for the mounting screws.
Determine the center location for the sole with equally spaced screws.
For a base with asymmetrically placed screws, measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.
Mark a mark with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:
Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.
Mark the locations of the mounting screws.
Drill holes for mounting and for the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.
Cut out the bends with an electric jig saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly short of the marking line. Then move the file a little closer to the contour line - pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the blade. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.
Attach the connecting strips to the bottom of the tabletop.
Glue all the pieces together and secure them with additional screws. Select screws that are longer than the standard ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router from the bottom of the slab.
1 — side strip for fastening with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 — countersunk guide holes; 4 — front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base
Fasten the table to the trestles with clamps, secure the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.
The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. The portable table is stored on a rack, and for work it is fixed on a workbench. If you often mill and have a workshop free place, add support pedestals to the tabletop and get a full-fledged machine.
Cut the cabinet elements according to the dimensions given for the 820 mm high table, or change them so that the table top is level with other equipment.
Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 — inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base
Place the tabletop with the back side facing up. Install the side panels sequentially and screw them with screws, pre-drilling the guide holes. Secure the base, place the frame front side down, align the right corners and install the two back panels.
Finally, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the housing using roofing screws. Place the wheel mounting pads no closer than 20 mm from the edges.
1 — side stand; 2 — wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 — internal stand; 5 - rear panel
Use the free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.
Get a longer cutter reach by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinax or monolithic polycarbonate.
Cut a square with a side of 300 mm from the sheet and place it on the workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. Using a drill of the same diameter as the mounting screws, drill holes in the plate, using the plastic trim as a template. Remove the sole, use a countersink or a large drill to make indentations for the caps.
Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the tool body until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and use a hole saw to make a hole at the mark.
Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through drilled hole. Straighten the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.
Secure thin boards around the marked outline with clamps.
Clamp the copy cutter with the bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer adjustment of the router and make the final pass.
Drill through holes for screws and widen them with reverse side table tops with an 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts with epoxy glue, aligning with the screws.
Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, place it in place, drill the mounting holes and countersink front side. Attach the part to the router base, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the plane of the tabletop; if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.
For faster and more convenient machine setup, upgrade the parallel side fence and add a rotary fence to help machine the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum guides into the surface of the slab with T-profile. To make cutouts in the tabletop, use a router or circular saw with groove disc.
Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, and countersink them. Place the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten countersunk screws.
Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, select hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.
Install a guide profile in the front stop bar to secure clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.
Cut a cover from plywood with a hole in the center, secure it to the gussets located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter fitting and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the router table.
Add a safety shield made from plywood scraps and a strip of plexiglass to the stop.
To make oblong cuts, drill 7mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangents and make cuts with a jigsaw.
Make homemade clamps and clamps necessary for milling small elements.
The comb clamp can be made from maple wood, choosing a section with a straight grain pattern. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular saw:
Secure the clamps to the guide using bolts and wing nuts.
1 - stopper; 2 — comb clamp; 3 — protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - pipe for vacuum cleaner
Sand the surfaces of the parts, especially in areas where the workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat it with oil.
1 — drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop
Materials needed:
The ability to take your time and think through each step, to accurately mark and cut out blanks, or the desire to learn this came in handy. The result is a high-quality milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a mechanism for adjusting the milling height.
Working with a hand router on a special table is more convenient and efficient. Therefore, tool owners sooner or later think about buying a table or making it themselves.
A homemade design has a number of advantages, which you will learn about below.
example of a homemade milling table
A router is one of the main tools for woodworking. With it you can:
Some processes are inconvenient to do with hand tools, because you need to hold the workpiece and the cutter at the same time. The table provides a reliable support and fastener for a manual router, on which you can produce precise and high-quality products that are not inferior to factory ones. It’s easy to make a stand using ready-made drawings.
The type of table is the first thing you need to decide on before making drawings and making your own table. The choice is made between three options:
Router fastener. The most convenient way is to use a mounting plate installed in the countertop. The tool is attached to the plate on the underside and can be easily removed to replace or repair the cutter. You can make your own mounting plate from a small piece of sheet steel.
Materials. Many convenient and functional homemade products are made from scraps and waste: plywood, boards, timber, chipboard. The material for the countertop can be thick plywood or chipboard; many choose MDF. The laminated one is especially convenient - the surface is smooth, and workpieces glide over it easily. Thick plastic and aluminum sheets are good for countertops.
Whatever material the tabletop is made of, it should not sag during operation! If the table surface is large, consider additional stiffeners in the drawing.
If a craftsman uses a hand router infrequently, a compact table that is rigidly fixed to the workbench will suit him. It is made with a side support and an outlet for connecting a vacuum cleaner.
Materials required for work:
Tools:
Work progress:
This milling table is in no way inferior to factory models. To make it yourself, you need the following materials:
Having selected everything you need, we begin assembling the table with our own hands. First we make the base of the structure from scraps of boards, chipboard and plywood. The stand needs to be made rigid, so we cut out additional spacers from plywood. In the right side panel we make a hole for the power switch, it will connect to the router.
Anyone who seriously engages in woodworking knows how important it is to have a good router. However, it is not at all necessary to pay exorbitant sums for this instrument - it is quite possible to make it yourself. How to do this will be discussed in this article.
A well-made router table significantly increases the efficiency of working with a hand router. However, buying them can cost a pretty penny, because it will be much easier to make such a table yourself, using special drawings for this. This will allow you to save a lot of money and, moreover, the process will not take too much time. There are several types of milling tables: stationary, adaptive and portable. This article will talk about stationary version, because it is the most difficult to perform. This means that having learned how to make it, other types of milling cutters can be made without difficulty.
Before starting any work, you should decide what kind of result you want to get. The easiest way would be to make a milling table based on a regular workbench, but it’s better to do it anyway separate design. But if you do use an ordinary table for this purpose, then it must be very strong and stable. It is important to choose the right dimensions: so, optimal height is approximately 90-100 cm. An even better solution would be a table with adjustable height, because this will allow the milling machine to be adjusted to the needs of the master. General form elements of the milling table can be seen below.
As for materials, there are also subtleties here. Often the covers for such a table are made from MDF board. In general, this is justified: they are inexpensive, lightweight and easy to use. Phenolic plastic is also a popular material - it is stronger and more durable than MDF. But also more expensive - by about 20%. You can make a tabletop from a sheet of metal. One thing is important - the surface must be absolutely smooth, since the workpieces must move easily across the table surface without clinging or getting stuck anywhere. The thickness of the cover should not exceed 35 mm.
Tools for work you will need:
As you can see, both the materials and tools for making a milling table are not so difficult to get. But it is extremely important that everything is of high quality, because the durability and reliability of the product directly depends on this.
When all preparatory work completed, you can proceed directly to manufacturing the product. Everything is done in several stages. They will be listed below.
There are some nuances associated with the implementation of each of the points. However, anyone who has experience working with wood products will be able to make a router table. It is only important to pay close attention to the task at hand.
Most people prefer to buy ready-made tools, but some of them can be done with your own hands. A manual router is also one of these. Of course, we are not talking about assembling from scratch - this takes a lot of time. But the router can be made from another, simpler and cheaper tool. For example, from a drill. You can also make this tool from a grinder or hammer drill. It is optimal to take a device with a power of 600 to 1000 W (it could be “Fiolent” or something like that). The entire structure will consist of a motor (that is, the drill itself) and a frame in which it will be fixed. Exactly how the process will take place will be discussed below.
The first step is to make a frame into which you will then need to install a drill. It is cut out of a chipboard, then a special iron clamp is installed on top for additional fixation. The parts of the structure are fastened together with self-tapping screws. The cutter is clamped into the drill chuck. To make the structure sufficiently stable, the frame is attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws. Of course, even with seemingly good fixation, the drill can wobble in the frame, which will lead to the fact that the wooden parts processed on such a router will look sloppy. A good solution would be to place the rotary lever on the side rather than on top - in this case, the motor will be less loose during operation.
Of course, this solution also has certain disadvantages. For example, this homemade device not suitable for long work: With constant use, it will quickly become damaged. And due to the low power, it is difficult to process hard wood with such a tool. But a router made from a drill will be inexpensive, it is easy to use, and even a beginner can assemble it. That's why this design is used quite often.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that you should not be afraid to make woodworking tools yourself: expensive factory equipment will undoubtedly be better in some ways, but sometimes availability and low price plays a much larger role. Especially if we're talking about about products where it is not necessary to adhere to high precision. Such a self-assembled product is ideal for those who are just learning to work with wood, but sometimes it can also help out more experienced craftsmen.
Woodworkers treat their router table with respect. And there is a good reason for this, as such designs can improve productivity and workflow efficiency. Now it's not a problem to find suitable models tables for hand routers, but they are obscenely expensive. But anyone can make a milling machine with their own hands, without spending a lot of money on a branded table or buying a cheap Chinese equivalent and throwing money away business person. This requires an electric motor of suitable power, a guide structure and a table.
Working with a manual milling cutter involves performing operations to move the machine along a rigidly fixed surface of the workpiece being processed. This is not always convenient. And therefore, they often do the opposite: the milling cutter is permanently attached, and the workpiece moves. In this case, they are already talking about a design called a “milling table”, and not just about a “hand router” tool.
Milling tables quite often make it possible to achieve results that were previously only available to professional furniture workshops that had milling machines. With their help, cutting shaped holes, cutting grooves, making joints, processing and profiling edges, as well as cutting shaped holes is done accurately, easily and safely.
The big advantage of this design is that using a milling table for a manual router you can process various materials such as wood, chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc., in wooden parts make splines and grooves, connect parts on tongues and tenons, create decorative profiles and chamfer.
The milling table can also easily be used as a woodworking machine. All you need to do is secure the tool on a workbench or in an electric drill stand. It comes as no surprise that a large number of Companies rushed to satisfy the indomitable appetite of carpenters, producing a fairly wide range of milling tables, as well as accessories for them. Homemade milling tables, however, are sometimes not inferior to branded ones in terms of their own characteristics.
You can use the surface of a workbench to install a hand router, or you can make a separate table. The table has a rigid structure and is well stable, because the milling machine causes quite strong vibration during operation. You should also take into account that the router is attached to the bottom of the tabletop, and it is important that nothing interferes with it. Therefore, there are no additional elements in this part.
The mounting plate is used to attach the router to the table; it is made of durable and high-quality materials. For this, textolite, metal sheet or plywood are used. Usually exist on the sole itself threaded connections, for reliable fastening of plastic masonry.
A recess for the plate is present on top of the tabletop, so that the latter is recessed flush. The plate is attached to the countertop with self-tapping screws that have a countersunk head. To attach the sole, a hole is drilled, and the plate hole is duplicated in the tabletop. The router is attached to the table using countersunk screws. If there are no holes in the sole for attaching the plate, they can be drilled independently, and clamps can also be used.
There is a button attached to the table, which is used to conveniently turn on the router; it is also possible to install an emergency mushroom button for your safety. For more comfortable work and fixing larger workpieces, the table for a manual router can be equipped with upper clamping devices. Also, for ease of measurement, it is customary to attach a ruler.
It is best to start the process of making a structure for a manual router by determining the location of the future table in the workshop. First of all, you should have a clear idea of what kind of milling table you need: a side extension of the saw table (aggregate), tabletop (portable) or separate (stationary).
If you have to work using a milling table only occasionally, or outside the workshop, you need to think about a portable option; it can be hung on the wall or removed to save space. If there is enough space, then maximum convenience will be provided by a free-standing milling table; it can be placed on wheels and then placed where it is convenient. A portable or free-standing router table can be set up to perform an operation and left for a while without interfering with other tools, devices and machines.
Possible as simple device build a low structure that can be placed on regular table. You can take a sheet of chipboard and attach a guide to it. According to the drawings of the table for a manual router, it may be an ordinary piece of board that is not very thick. Next you need to secure it to the bolted connections.
To do this you need to take two clamps. Next you need to make a hole for the cutter. That's all. If a milling machine is your main tool, then you need to make a solid and convenient milling table, because you will have to spend a lot of time at it.
The bed of any milling table is a stationary part, that is, it is a frame on supports that has a table top on top. What the frame is made of is not significant: welded steel structure, MDF, chipboard, wood. The main and main task is to ensure its stability and rigidity during operation. Also, the dimensions of the bed are not critical, and should be selected depending on the dimensions of the parts being processed.
To prevent the machine operator from tripping over parts of the structure, the lower part of the frame needs to be deepened (like the plinth of furniture) by 100-200 millimeters relative to the front overhang of the tabletop being used. For processing door trims and the ends of facade blanks for the frame of a homemade table for a manual router, we can recommend the following dimensions in millimeters: height - 900, depth - 500, width - 1500.
An important parameter, perhaps, is the height; it should be in the range of 850-900 millimeters, since this height is optimal for working while standing. It is quite good when the bed has adjustable supports; with the help of such supports you can compensate for uneven floors, and also, if necessary, change the height of the table.
Inexpensive and good option The countertop for a DIY milling table is a regular kitchen countertop based on chipboard with a thickness of 26 or 36 millimeters, which is covered with wear-resistant plastic. The workpiece glides well on the surface of hard plastic, the standard kitchen countertop depth of 600 millimeters is very convenient to use, and chipboard dampens vibrations quite well. For a countertop, in extreme cases, they are suitable MDF boards or laminated chipboard (chipboard) from 16 millimeters.
Due to the rather large thickness of the kitchen countertop (at least 26 millimeters), and in order to maintain the entire amplitude of the cutter's reach, the design of the router provides for the use of a mounting plate near the place where the base of the router is attached to the table. This part, despite its small thickness, is characterized by quite high strength.
The plate is often made of metal, but fiberglass (textolite) is still more convenient in processing and is not inferior in strength. The PCB mounting plate is a rectangular piece 4-8 millimeters thick, with a side of 150-300 millimeters, in which a hole is made in the center with the same diameter as the hole in the base of the router.
The milling cutter base usually contains standard threaded holes, which are intended for fastening the plastic lining. By means of them, they are attached to the mounting plate of the router. If suddenly there are no holes, you need to make these holes yourself, or secure the router in another way, for example, using metal clamps. To attach the plate to the tabletop, you need to drill four holes closer to the corners of the plate.
First of all, a tabletop is temporarily attached to the finished frame, as shown in the video about tables for a manual router. The mounting plate is placed on a pre-calibrated place on the tabletop, and its exact location is marked with a pencil along the contour. Using a hand router with a small diameter, 6-10 millimeters in the tabletop are selected for the mounting plate seat, such that it lies flush, that is, ideally with the upper surface of the tabletop.
We must also not forget that the seat of our plate will not have right corners, but rounded ones, which means that we will need to use a file to round the corners with the same radius of the textolite mounting plate. After the mounting plate has been attached, you need to use a router with a straight cutter thicker than the tabletop to make through milling of a hole in the tabletop according to the shape of the given router sole.
This operation does not require special precision. But you need to be prepared for additional material sampling from the bottom of the tabletop, for example, for a dust collector casing and various other devices.
Now everything remains to be connected together. We start the router from below, screwing it to the plate, and then use self-tapping screws to fasten the plate to the tabletop. We make sure that the caps of the fastening elements are recessed securely and that they should not cling to the workpiece when sliding it along the tabletop. Finally, we screw the tabletop to the frame.
For additional safety and convenience, you can equip the structure, according to the drawings of the table for a manual router, with an upper clamping device made on the basis of a roller. This is especially necessary when working with large workpieces, for example, such as door trims. The design of the clamp is very simple.
Ball bearing suitable sizes, for example, can serve as a roller. The bearing is mounted in the holding device; it can be rigidly fixed from the surface of the tabletop at the required distance. This will ensure that the workpiece is constantly pressed tightly against the tabletop when passing under the roller of the workpiece.
If you are planning to design a simple homemade milling machine, you should pay attention to the electric drive. An important factor is its power. For shallow cutting machine wooden blanks a 500 watt motor may even be suitable. Still, such a machine will often stall, so it will not justify either the time or the money saved on the purchase of a low-power engine.
From observations it is clear that the best option is a motor with a power of 1100 W. A 1-2 kilowatt motor will allow you to process wood as usual, as well as use any type of cutter. Electric motors, both stationary and drives, are suitable here. hand power tools, such as hand cutters, drill, grinder.
Another important factor is turnover. How more quantity rpm, the more uniform and cleaner the cut will be. If the engine is designed for a regular household network of 220 volts, then there will be no problems with the connection. But now it’s three-phase asynchronous motor you need to connect according to a special scheme - star-delta, which guarantees the maximum possible output in this situation, as well as a smooth start. If in single-phase network connect a three-phase electric motor, then efficiency will be lost in the amount of 30 - 50%.
After making a table for a manual router, you need to say in conclusion about the main thing, that is, about safety. We strongly recommend making for the cutter protective screen according to the type of samples for industrial milling tables. It is also necessary to equip the machine with the so-called “fungus”, that is, an emergency stop button, placing this button in an easily accessible place, and also to prevent accidental pressing of the start button.
After this, it is recommended to highlight working area, since around the cutter the most dangerous place. If you change the cutter reach height quite frequently, it makes sense to think about automatic or manual device lowering and raising the router. Homemade design milling machine You can improve it a lot and for a long time, depending on the tasks being solved and the imagination of the designer.
