Frame buildings are becoming more and more in demand - they are inexpensive and at the same time durable housing. You can build both a luxurious villa and a neat house in the village - projects a large number of. It doesn’t matter whether you build it yourself or entrust it to specialists - the necessary knowledge will allow you to control the process at all stages.
Frame houses are called because the entire structure of the house is made up of vertical wooden posts and horizontal plank frames. A lightweight wooden frame can be erected in a matter of days, even if you do the work yourself with several assistants, and specialists can handle even a complex project even faster.
Before you build, you should clearly decide whether you will live in such a house all year round or whether its use will be limited to summer trips to nature. How well the frame house will be insulated depends on your decision. If the structure will only be used for warm times year, then the issue of serious insulation, high-quality heating and saving energy resources is removed in itself - the building requires standard thermal insulation measures so that in winter the temperature in the room does not drop below zero.
But if you decide to build a house for year-round use, you should approach the issue of thermal insulation very seriously, following all the rules. It is insulation that is the cornerstone of all frame technology, on which both future resource savings and the heating structure depend. The conditions of the climatic zone where the house will be built are taken into account - for example, for the central climatic zone, only the thickness of the boards for cladding the house must be at least 100 mm.
Another point that should be determined at the project stage is the number of storeys of the structure. Experts categorically recommend not to build buildings higher than 2 floors using frame technology, and even then, it is desirable that the second floor be an attic. But you will be confident in the strength of the entire structure and its durability.
Having calculated the load that will be placed on the foundation, you will be pleasantly surprised - in the case of frame houses, there is absolutely no need for a deeply deep foundation of large width. Almost any option will do: slabs, piles, strip foundation. If the choice fell on the screw or pile option, then keep in mind that then you will have to seriously insulate and finish the base of the building. By selecting concrete slab, you will get a foundation that is too low, which will even look unusual.
As practice shows, it is best to build a one-story frame house on a shallow strip foundation on a sand and gravel bed. On slow-moving soils, it is enough to pour 15 cm of sand and 10 cm of medium-fraction gravel into the trench. The width of the trench in this case is half a meter. It is important to lay reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm along the entire perimeter of the tape, which will eliminate deformation during soil heaving. Watch the video on how to make such a base.
This is just an example - in each case the foundation should be calculated separately. The most important thing is to take into account the characteristics of the soil. If funds allow, it is always better to play it safe and make a certain margin of safety. The columnar foundation is completed quite quickly, and most importantly, there is no need to wait until the solution has completely hardened. For a house for an average family on a columnar foundation, you will need about 150 columns, or rather, asbestos-cement pipes, which you will turn into columns in the process.
To begin with, at a distance of up to 80 cm around the perimeter of the future building, use a drill to make indentations with a diameter of about 20 cm and a depth of at least a meter. Pipes are inserted into these holes - the space around them is filled with fine crushed stone and sand and compacted, as in the video. A standard cement solution is poured into the pipes - that’s all the work. It is not at all necessary to wait until the cement hardens - the pipes will take on the first load, and after just a few days your columnar foundation will be able to support the entire house, equipment and residents inclusive.
Screw pile foundation differs from columnar in that the piles are steel pipes with a screw at one end. The pipes are screwed into the ground at the same level - the main thing is not to unscrew them back if the pile goes at an angle. This is the biggest mistake beginners make - by unscrewing the pile, you will loosen the soil, and under the weight of the house, the foundation may sag in the future.
In fact, frame houses, subject to all technologies and regular repairs, can last more than two hundred years. There is real evidence of this - the world-famous half-timbered houses, which, in fact, are also frame structures. In any case, at least two generations will own a warm and cozy home.
The main stages of construction are the same for all frame structures. It all starts with the construction of a frame - metal or wood. Wood is used more often for a frame, since the material is environmentally friendly and convenient to work with; in addition, the cost of a metal frame will be 30–40% higher. True, a metal frame is lighter, which means you can reduce foundation costs.
In addition, it will be possible to use metal fasteners, which is prohibited in the case of wooden frame. The metal will sooner or later start the process of rotting in the wood, the joints will become less strong, the house will begin to loosen, and the structure will become dangerous for residents. There is a special fastener - wooden dowels, which prevent putrefactive processes.
The best wood option for a frame house is oak. True, this option is not always possible, and therefore high-quality timber with a cross-section of at least 150 mm 2 is often used. The connection between the elements is made using the tongue-and-groove technology - make sure that there are no gaps between them.
In frame house construction, the floor is the first to appear. First, roofing felt is laid along the entire perimeter of the future walls and a wooden beam with a cross-section of 150 mm2 is laid on top - watch the video of how the craftsmen do this. It is important to cover the tree with antiseptic preparations that will protect the material from rotting.
The timber is secured with anchor bolts, maintaining a step of 2 m. There should be no distortion of more than 10 mm in the corners - this can be easily checked with a level.
When building a frame house, it is very important to use the same materials for load-bearing structures, floors and walls - the expansion coefficient in this case will also be the same, and you will avoid possible distortions. When the beams of the bottom trim are laid and fastened together, you can lay the floor joists. For the logs, boards 5 cm thick and 15 cm wide are suitable. The elements are fastened by cutting grooves in the beam of the lower frame. The distance between the logs is no more than 60 cm.
Then bars of smaller width than the logs themselves are attached to the logs. This will allow you to lay the so-called subfloor between the beams - the floor boards will be laid directly on the joists. Do not forget to treat all elements with antiseptics. For the subfloor, in order to save money, even uncut boards are used - of great importance it doesn't have.
For high-quality vapor barrier, glassine is stapled onto the subfloor, after which insulation is laid between the beams - mineral wool or polystyrene foam. A thickness of about 10 cm is sufficient. It is important to lay the thermal insulation in such a way that there is no free space left at the edges, as in the video. To do this, the mineral wool slabs are cut so that they are several centimeters wider than the space between the joists - then it is possible to tightly close the entire space. In the case of polystyrene foam, the cracks will be properly filled with foam. The ceiling is also insulated using the same technology.
Then the finished floor is laid - 40*150 mm boards are suitable for this. The boards are properly compacted with wedges and staples and nailed to the joists. Check with a level how even the floor is - the quality of the entire further construction depends on this.
The step-by-step assembly of the wall frame is as follows:
For the bottom trim we use the same timber with a cross section of 150 mm 2 with pre-prepared grooves. It is important that there is a distance of no more than 50 cm between the grooves.
On a flat and dry area, prepare the boards for the walls. The length of the boards should be equal to the desired ceiling height - experts recognize 2.7 m as the optimal option. This is enough so that the room does not feel cramped, and in the summer it is not stuffy, and at the same time, it will not be difficult to heat the house in the winter.
In those places where the corner posts will be located, steel dowels are first placed, and holes for them are drilled in the end part of the bars. The bars are installed and secured with temporary jibs. The intermediate bars are installed in the same way.
The upper harness is made from the same timber with grooves as for the lower one. The most important thing is to adjust the location of the grooves so that they are completely identical to the bottom ones. Otherwise there will be distortions. When the top trim is laid on the racks, it should be secured to each rack with at least a pair of nails, driving them to a depth of at least 10 cm. After this, the frame is strengthened with permanent bevels, and temporary ones are dismantled.
In places where there will be interior partitions, support bars are installed. Ceiling beams are made of 50*15 timber; place them at a distance of no more than half a meter, at the junction with the vertical posts. The beams are secured both with steel brackets and with the help of pre-cut grooves.
The installation of window frames occurs at the stage of erecting the wall frame. In accordance with the standards, the area of the window opening must be at least 18% of the total wall area. The frame is secured with vertical posts adjusted in height. If you are building a house exclusively for summer use, then single-pane double-glazed windows are also suitable, but for living all year round will be needed quality windows with at least two glasses - it all depends on the climate.
Of course, all this work can be reduced significantly by using ready-made sandwich panels. Now many factories offer their services in this direction - all you have to do is choose a house design and prepare the foundation. Assembling a house from sandwich panels is like playing Lego, you just need to connect the elements into single design. From the point of view of economy, this option is the most profitable, since sandwich panels are very light and insulated, which means you will save on the foundation and insulation, not to mention the time that you would spend on this work.
The more complex the frame house project you choose, the less likely it is that you can handle the construction of the roof yourself. If the second floor is attic, it is better to contact specialists who will correctly calculate the entire rafter system. But you can handle it with a simple gable roof.
For the rafters, choose a 5*15 cm beam. The edges of the beams are joined at the end at an angle of 50° and nailed together. This simple structure is fastened crosswise with a board, forming the letter “A”. It is easier to assemble the rafters on the ground, and only then lift them to the roof and fasten them with 200 mm nails. Sheathing boards are attached to the rafters in increments of 10 cm. They need to extend beyond the outer rafters by 25 cm. Roofing felt is laid on the sheathing, after which you can begin installing the roofing material.
This is the simplest roof option, which can be supplemented with high-quality thermal insulation. As you know, a house loses up to 20% of heat through the attic! Insulate the outside correctly - this way you will save space inside, and it will be easier to carry out the work. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the sheathing, for example, the familiar glassine, which is secured with a stapler. Another light sheathing is placed on top of the vapor barrier - in increments of 50-60 cm.
A heat-insulating material, for example, mineral wool, is placed in the space between the sheathing. Then the vapor barrier is laid again, a layer of roofing material is added and the roofing material is installed. It is important that a gap of several centimeters is maintained between the roofing felt and the roofing materials - in this case, the space under the roof will be ventilated, and condensation can easily leave the thermal insulation pie.
It is most convenient to insulate a house built using frame technology from the inside. Therefore, first of all, the outside of the structure is sheathed with OSB boards, and then with siding or clapboard. Then you can move on to .
Polystyrene foam and mineral wool are eternal competitors among thermal insulation materials. But still, foam plastic has lower thermal conductivity - 40 mm of foam plastic in terms of thermal insulation is equal to 45 mm of mineral wool. A 10 cm layer can replace brick wall two meters thick! The most important advantage of this material is its waterproofness, which mineral wool cannot boast of. If it gets wet, it will lose its properties.
The insulation is laid between the vertical posts - as mentioned above, the materials should fit tightly to each other. Do not skimp on foam to fill the cracks. At this stage, do not forget to lay out the electrical wiring. You can read more about the choice and the technology itself in a separate article on our website.
The most proven option for interior cladding is wooden lining. However, if you want to do something more original, you can purchase a block house - a lining that imitates a rounded log. If wooden cladding does not suit you, you can cover the walls inside with OSB boards, then with plasterboard, which only needs to be puttied. Afterwards you can paint the walls or glue wallpaper - as your heart desires.
Construction frame houses is becoming more and more popular in our country. All new technologies are part of such buildings, and it does not matter what technology the house was built on - Finnish or Canadian. This article describes how to build a frame-type house with your own hands, and also describes each stage of the construction of a building of this category.
A frame house is a structure that has a frame at its core. In general, this is clear from the name. The frame itself is the basis and a kind of “skeleton” of such a building. The frame is installed on a pre-prepared foundation, after which it is sheathed with special panels. It is insulated and a roof is built. After completing all these steps, the output is ready house.
It should be noted that frame houses first appeared in Germany, and then the wave of their popularity swept over Canada and the USA. It is for this reason that there is more than one technology for building a frame house - Canadian, Swedish, German, and so on. On the territory of the USSR, such houses began to be built back in the 50s of the twentieth century. And since that time, interest in buildings of this type has increased significantly and continues to grow at a rapid pace.
Like all buildings, frame houses have advantages and disadvantages.
If we talk about the advantages, it should be noted:
There is also no need to screed the floor, because the floor is already ready for finishing from the very beginning. Saving time and money is also obvious.
Having noted all the advantages of these houses, we cannot help but mention some of the disadvantages:
As you can see, this type of house has significantly more advantages than disadvantages, which means that choosing just such a building is a pretty good decision.
All other options can either be with minor changes to such houses, or represent a combination various solutions. Now let's talk about each of the above options in more detail.
Frame-panel houses are usually produced at a factory. According to the project, the frame is first made, then the panels, floors between floors and even the roof. Each element receives the necessary markings and all the necessary holes. In essence, this is a kind of constructor. When the house kit is ready, it is simply delivered to the construction site, where its immediate installation begins.
This technology is very simple, but in order for the house to be of the highest quality and durability, all rules and regulations of its construction must be followed.
If we talk about frame-frame or Canadian houses, then we must immediately talk about the so-called SIP panels. They are a structural insulating panel, which is insulation, framed by OSB sheets. This option is a reinforced version of panels for frame-panel houses. A building of this type will be built using the “Platform” technology.
Three layers of such a panel are connected to each other using timber in a tongue-and-groove manner using polyurethane foam-based adhesive. In the production of SIP panels, polyurethane foam is also used, which is a fairly highly effective insulation material. In order to increase strength, the above layers are pressed.
It should be said right away that high-quality SIP panels can only be manufactured in factory conditions.
Another option for houses is those made using German technology. In fact, this is one of the options for using the platform methodology. This technology involves laying thermal insulation and communications into panels. The installation of windows, the assembly of floors and the primary finishing of walls are also carried out. All this is done only in the factory. A rather serious disadvantage is the need to use lifting mechanisms.
If we talk about the frame-and-frame method of construction, it has a significant difference from the panel method: the assembly of the house frame takes place on the construction site in the form of frames that are not sheathed. Only when the installation of the structure is completed does its cladding and insulation begin.
Such houses are the best solution for those who want to build a house on their own. The advantage of such houses is that the owner can see in full what the house is made of, how the work is carried out and the assembly is carried out.
It should be noted that The frame of the house can optionally be made of wood. Now popular are metal frames, made of light steel thin-walled structures and so on.
The use of this technology makes it possible to realize the most interesting architectural ideas not only at the initial stage, but also later, if redevelopment suddenly becomes necessary.
Another type of house that is built using German technology is post-and-beam, or half-timbered. This technology is quite old, and it involves the construction of houses from sections. They are made from horizontal beams, vertical posts and jibs. The peculiarity of the fachver is that the frame with beams is not hidden behind the cladding, but is simply carried out from outside at home. Usually the frame is made of thick timber, which has a cross-section of 100 by 100 or 200 by 200 millimeters.
The space between the beams and posts is filled with certain materials. Previously, blocks of straw and clay were used. Now they use brick, OSB boards, adobe material, and so on.
In our conditions, it is not worth making this type of house, since the structure will require quite serious insulation. But this look has a rather original look.
And the last type that you should pay attention to is frame-rack structures. Such houses with uncut drains are also called Finnish. They are somewhat similar to houses that are made using Swedish technology. Solid vertical posts that extend across two floors are the main element of the frame. In order to ensure high structural strength, the racks must be installed strictly vertically.
The floors between floors are installed on support boards that have been cut into the beams. Continuous racks are pulled together by floor joists, the structure becomes rigid. This type of construction is characterized by the fact that the vertical posts act as piles. They bear the main burden. You can also increase rigidity using horizontal beams.
The creation of a design begins with the development of a competent project. A drawing with the dimensions of the house and, in general, the most complete construction diagram, where not only the structure is depicted, but also all its elements are drawn as much as possible - this is the best option that should be. The project, which, by the way, must fully comply with SNiP, must reflect engineering, structural, architectural, construction and other features as much as possible. For example, if you plan to make a cross house with an attic, then it should already be in the project.
All this is done so that engineering ideas can be brought to life as easily as possible, even by a person who is not very knowledgeable about building houses.
And if necessary, you can see what the final house will look like on the website of the contractor from whom you plan to order the project. Another important point concerns regulatory documentation. The fact is that this technology does not forgive mistakes, and therefore, in order to be sure that your project fully complies with all standards and GOSTs, you should double-check it yourself according to SP 31-105-2002 entitled “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-apartment residential buildings with a wooden frame."
If we talk about the rules for constructing such houses, then the main principle is that construction technology must be strictly observed. That is, the house has proportions of 4x4 or 6x4, then that’s how it should be. Or if the size of some room should be 3x6 m, and in some room a 10x10 element should be used, then these are the dimensions that need to be followed.
Any deviation risks disrupting the entire construction process and the result can be quite disastrous.
Construction should have the following stages:
Only in this sequence can frame houses be built, otherwise you risk creating a building whose efficiency will be significantly lower than planned.
Before you start construction, you need to choose the material from which you will build the house, and also calculate how much you will need so as not to overpay in vain, but at the same time it is enough to implement all your ideas.
First of all, you should think about the consumption of lumber. But it all depends on what you will make the frame house from: wood, timber or, perhaps, boards. For example, to build a panel house we will need:
Calculate the cost of rack and cross beam not so easy. Here you should take into account the dimensions of the future structure, that is, its area, as well as the category of thermal insulation material that will be used during construction.
Also, if we talk about the consumption of other materials, you will need to do:
By the way, the calculation of these systems needs to be done only when the owner of the house has decided on the roofing material and the frame of the house. It is from these two points that we need to build on in the future.
Naturally, if a person is ready to spend money to form a reserve of the strength reserve of a building, then such a scrupulous calculation can no longer be carried out. But, as a rule, frame houses are built precisely because they are cheap and affordable.
Creating a frame wooden house can be done using a regular set of tools. This is another beauty of frame technology for ordinary people. There is no need to use any special equipment or any expensive tools. But at the same time, if you cut the boards with a simple hacksaw and hammer the nails with an ordinary hammer, then you can build a house for years.
If it is possible to use pneumatic or electric tool, then the result and speed of construction will improve significantly.
So, to carry out work at different stages you will need different tools. For example, during site preparation and foundation work you will need to have:
At the frame assembly stage we will need:
In addition, you will need various auxiliary elements - ropes, electrical extension cords, as well as small tools, including various types of fasteners and nails.
It will significantly speed up construction and will not be superfluous modern instrument. For example, it is more convenient to prepare frame parts using an electric circular saw. And it’s even better if a special miter saw with a stationary base is used for the work. And the same electric circular saw will excellent option for mounting the frame.
To quickly and efficiently drive nails, you should use a pneumatic hammer with a compressor. This tool cannot be called cheap, but labor productivity will be significantly higher here.
In addition, in the process of assembling the frame, it will not be superfluous to use an electric plane, as well as a jigsaw. A planer is needed to correct defects in lumber, as well as to fit frame elements to each other. A jigsaw will not be superfluous for precise installation of the roof rafter system.
As already mentioned, frame houses are built exclusively using well-established technology, that is, in stages.
Creating a foundation is a rather complex and very responsible process that sets the tone for the successful implementation of a house project. When creating a foundation, it is necessary to take into account a lot of factors, starting from the geological picture of the site and ending with the height of the groundwater and so on.
As a rule, pile-grillage foundations are most often made. They can be built quickly and are reliable. In addition, such a basis does not require large material investments. In addition, such a platform will evenly transfer the load to all supports.
It is necessary to drill holes for piles with a drill. As formwork, you can use roofing material rolled into pipes of a certain diameter. 3-4 reinforcement rods are installed inside the piles, which are connected to each other in the form of a square or triangle. They must be cut so that at least 70-80 centimeters of rod stick out above the surface of the pile.
It is best to fill everything with concrete grade M25 and above.
After the piles have been poured, formwork should be installed in which the reinforcement will be laid. We connect the longitudinal rods with the bent parts of the reinforcement from the piles. You should also leave holes in the tape for communications and ventilation. A beam for strapping will then be attached to the foundation strip. To install it, pins are secured in the tape. They are placed every meter or two.
It is necessary to retreat thirty centimeters from each corner in both directions. Hairpins are required here. In other places it already depends on the dimensions of the house, but they cannot be installed less frequently than two meters apart. It should be said that the studs are the only connecting link between the foundation and the frame of the house. Therefore, it is better not to be greedy. In general, there should be at least two studs in one wall.
When everything is ready, you need to pour the concrete. After this, so that it does not dry out, but becomes stronger, it is better to cover it with polyethylene. If the temperature after pouring the foundation remains around + 20 degrees, then after four to five days construction can continue.
In this case, the concrete will already have 50 percent of its strength. And if the temperature is lower, the waiting time will be longer.
In order to make a floor, you first need to waterproof the foundation. To do this, you need to use waterproofing, bitumen mastic and roofing felt. First, liquid insulation is laid, followed by roll insulation, and then the beds - dry boards - are attached on top. Their edges should be aligned with the foundation height. A second layer of boards is placed on top of the first layer to hide any gaps that may form.
Strapping boards are attached to the beds. They must be placed on edge, aligned, and then attached to their base with nails. Now the logs are being installed - everything will be the same here as when installing the harnesses. That is, they can be nailed with oblique nails.
Now you can start insulating the floor. There are lots of ways to do this. One of them is the use of inexpensive polystyrene foam. Its thickness should be 15 centimeters. It is laid in two layers to cover seams and joints. You can also go over the perimeter with sealant to ensure maximum insulation of the surface. After insulation, all that remains is to lay the subfloor from boards and a layer of plywood.
If it is large and about 1.5 centimeters thick, then you can do without a second layer. And if not, then it is necessary to make another layer of boards overlapping with the first level.
Next the most important stage- erection of house walls. In this case, there are two options: either assemble the wall frame on the floor, and then simply lift it, set it up and secure it, or assemble everything in place gradually. In the first case, work is usually carried out in factories, but in the second case, when the assembly is done with your own hands. To begin with, the bottom frame beam is nailed, after which the corner posts are installed, then the intermediate posts, and the top frame. This technology is also called balloon.
Each option has its pros and cons, but everything will depend on how many people work at the site.
If we talk about corner posts, they should be either 150x150 millimeters or 100x100 mm. In rare cases, 50x100 racks are used. But here everything will depend on how small the house is being built. If it is small, then the 100x100 mm option will be more than enough. It will still depend on the load and the required width of the insulation.
The pitch of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but the distance between the racks is also selected based on the width of the insulation. The gap between them should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no debris, as well as cracks and gaps.
That is, you should first position and secure the corner beams, then mount the top frame on them, and only then the vertical posts at the selected pitch. Mounting the racks is possible in several ways:
Cutting into the board of the lower trim should be carried out no more than half its depth. Corners are usually attached on both sides. Dowel fastening is an old technology, but its execution is quite complex. It is best to use reinforced corners.
The beams to which doors and windows are attached must be double. In this case, the load is greater, and therefore a more powerful support is required.
Now about the bevels and braces. If the outer cladding must be made of high-strength material, then it is better to embed the jibs from inside the room, since they will be temporary. This is necessary to preserve the geometry while there is no outer skin. If the sheathing is inlaid, then permanent jibs must be present. It is best to use four small pieces for each: two on the bottom and two on top.
But most of all the question arises when building corners. This is not surprising, because these are the main connection points. If the beam is placed in a corner, then there will be no problems, except that the corner will be cold. But you can make the frame of the house warm.
After assembling the frame, it should be sheathed with plywood or OSB. This will not only be an excellent insulation material, but will also act as excellent sound and noise insulation.
The floor beams must rest on the top frame beam. There are several mounting methods:
The dimensions of the beams and the distance between them will depend on what is on top. If this is a second residential floor or an attic, then the cross-section should be larger and the step should be smaller to avoid sagging of the floor.
If there is only a roof on top and the attic is non-residential, that is, in fact, we will have a ceiling on the first floor, then these will be completely different calculations. And if the ceiling is on the second floor, that is, it is interfloor, then the calculations will be the same as in the first case. In a one-story house, the floor beams simultaneously support the rafters. It is for this reason that they are released thirty centimeters beyond the perimeter of the wall.
If the second floor is being built, the ceiling is covered with the subfloor of the second floor, and the ceiling needs to be covered below. That is, we get a kind of small “pie”. In this case, it will be easier to work on creating the second floor of the house, since its assembly will not differ from the first.
The roof is installed when all the walls are finally built and fully secured. It remains to determine the slope we need and what the roof will be like. The most common is gable. In order to increase the usable area of the house, a number of buildings are equipped with a veranda. In this case, the house design may provide for several types of roof construction: above the veranda - single-pitched, and above the house - gable. And depending on the slope, the roof can be:
The rafters are selected in such a way that insulation can be installed between them. As a sample, they take two six-meter-long boards and connect them into a structure in the shape of the letter L. Then they are lifted onto the roof and supported on a strapping beam so that the overhangs are 35-50 centimeters. Now the structure is secured with a crossbar and used as a model for the rafters, which are mounted 70 centimeters from each other.
Their connection in the skate is carried out using the “half-paw” method. That is, first the rafters are installed on the gables, after which a thread is pulled between them, along the level of which all intermediate rafters are installed. After this, a continuous or thinned sheathing is installed. This is exactly how the rafter system is made.
If we talk about the coating, the composition of the roof can be different. As an example, it can consist of metal tiles or corrugated boards. The latter is very easy to install, has a relatively low weight and low cost. But it can have different layers - for example, you can install a corrugated board and a layer of metal tiles.
To protect the frame house from the effects of natural factors, a special windproof film is used. It refers to external materials for the facade. It is better to install it in warm weather. Work can begin only after completion of the laying of the main thermal insulation layer, as well as before the final decorative cladding of the walls. As a rule, the main thermal insulation layer is a special membrane.
In order to eliminate mistakes in installing such a film, you should pay attention to the structure of its sides on the outside: one is smooth, and the other has a pile. The film is laid with the side where there is pile, towards the thermal insulation.
Rolls of film must have the manufacturer's logos on the surface, which is a hint as to how such film should be laid.
The windproof material can be laid out vertically as well as horizontally. Better to use vertical version. A horizontally located strip of film will simply interfere with its gradual installation.
Installation of the film should be carried out from top to bottom, with the end of the roll, which is free, applied to the top of the wall and rolled out to its base. You can cut the material using scissors. Alternatively, one might consider stationery knife. The length of the piece of film that will be cut from the roll should have small allowances so that the material can be run between the wall and the main insulation.
Under no circumstances should the material be allowed to sag. This film is secured with plastic dowels with plate-shaped caps, which perfectly attach the film to the wall. For one square meter Five of these dowels will be enough. When installing the next strip of windproof film, it should be overlapped so that there are no areas that will be affected.
Ventilation in frame houses can be of two types:
Natural is characterized by fresh air entering through doors and windows, and exiting through ventilation ducts in technical rooms. This is possible due to the difference in air pressure outside the room and inside it.
But in a frame house, natural ventilation will be weak, since such a structure will be airtight.
You can make ventilation in such a house with your own hands using supply valve. The ventilation gap can be made with your own hands from plastic pipes. You can also use asbestos-cement ones, which should be carefully built into the frame to obtain a ventilation gap. The said valve allows air to flow in.
From the outside it is covered with a grille to prevent foreign objects from getting inside. Filters are installed there for primary air purification, as well as a noise absorber. The air flow can be adjusted using the damper. The supply valve circuit is very simple and you can install it yourself. It is necessary to make a through hole in the wall, insert a pipe with sound insulation and a filter into it, secure the grille and make a damper.
It should be said that the natural method of ventilation is very ineffective and in this case you need at least a hood or a ventilated facade, since such a system cannot simply resist the formation of fungus.
In order to ensure good traction, you can equip the system with a fan. There are also examples where humidity meters were installed, which can automatically turn fans on and off.
A frame house can be insulated with any material with the appropriate characteristics. Of course, there is no ideal material, but it is possible to find the optimal solution.
The most popular insulation today is basalt wool. It is made in the form of mats and rolls, each of which has a different density. It is better to place mats in the walls: their density is higher and they hold better due to the expanding force. But for this their size should be two to three centimeters more distance, which is between the frame racks. The mats are secured using special fasteners, but they are still better to work with than soft rolls.
Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. But it also has a big drawback: it is afraid of moisture and should be protected not only from this, but also from exposure to steam. That is why on the room side it should be covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane so that vapors do not penetrate inside.
If we take the outer side, the thermal insulation made of mineral wool is covered with another membrane, but of a different type. In this case, the membrane will not be purged and will not allow water to pass through in gaseous or liquid form, and vapors will be able to escape from the insulation without problems. That is, the vapor tightness will be one-sided. When the insulation is installed, all that remains is to carry out finishing work.
According to accepted construction standards, windows should make up about 18 percent of the wall area. And for maximum illumination, it is best to stick to these sizes. If you live in your house year-round, it would be best to install plastic double glazed window with double glazing and large glass area.
In order to protect the house from temperature changes, various pests, humidity and the effects of various microorganisms, it should be treated with an antiseptic. You can do this in three ways:
To prevent the wood from floating, it is necessary to use clamping systems.
The advantages of antiseptic treatment are:
There are several finishing options. You can simply apply plaster on the outside, or you can use paint. You can also line the walls with siding or clapboard. If desired, it is possible to use a block house.
For example, plastering can be done in two ways:
But this method is more suitable as a temporary option.
When building houses, it is important to do everything correctly and avoid various types of inaccuracies. The final result will depend on the correctness of calculations, rational use of building materials, compliance with technological aspects of insulation, as well as cladding - whether you will have a beautiful, comfortable and cozy home, or whether you will get something completely different from what you expected. Therefore, it is worth considering the main mistakes of frame construction in order to prevent them from happening, especially if you want to carry out the installation yourself.
One of the most common mistakes is wrong selection lumber for a wooden house. As you know, the base of a frame house is made of wooden materials. And one of the main mistakes is their incorrect selection. In one case, not very well-dried wood is used in construction, that is, fresh lumber. And in another they use wood of small cross-section, which simply cannot withstand operational loads.
The first mistake is much more serious, because its admission can really affect the quality and reliability of the house design. After all, the fact is that wooden elements change in size as they dry out. Therefore, cracks, distortions and other problems may arise, which will later make the building unsuitable for habitation.
Small-section wood cannot withstand the necessary loads and its use in the house is simply dangerous.
Another important point is the cladding of the frame structure. Only its correct implementation will ensure the stability of the house under wind lateral loads. In this case the best solution there will be an integrated approach, when the cladding of the frame is done using slab materials, and also installation of slopes in the lower and upper parts strapping.
Hoping to reduce the cost of construction, you can make a pretty serious mistake. Especially if you decide to use some kind of budget insulation, the performance characteristics of which leave much to be desired. The best insulation materials today are:
Anything else is extremely risky. In general, you should not skimp on insulation.
You should also follow the construction technology and design as closely as possible. Usually we're talking about or about a “balun”, or about a “platform”. They have clear implementation scenarios from which you cannot deviate even one step, otherwise you simply risk making the house uninhabitable.
Another common mistake is the wrong choice of fasteners. For example, if you fasten the frame boards not with ordinary nails, but with black screws or perforated corners, you can upset the balance of the fasteners. Moreover, it will be significantly more expensive and the structure will not receive the necessary strength.
Also, quite often, mistakes are made during the manufacture of insulation, namely during the selection of film protective coatings. Moisture accumulation inside frame walls – a big problem such houses. And only high-quality vapor and wind barrier film will help solve it.
Building a frame house with your own hands is a feasible task, although it requires serious concentration, understanding of construction technology and sequence of actions. In addition, you should not skimp on building materials at all stages of construction, because this may backfire in the future. But if you follow the rules stated above, then build a frame Vacation home even alone and without experience it is possible without much difficulty.
For an overview of a frame house built with your own hands, see the following video.
For the construction of modern frame houses, for the most part, only 2 technologies are used: Finnish and Canadian. And if the Finnish method involves working with the entire frame of the house at once, then how to build a house according to Canadian way? In this way key point is the assembly of the floor covering and only then the construction of walls and work with the roof. It is on this, as it is more practical and rational, that we will dwell in more detail.
Step-by-step instructions for building a conventional panel house consist of the following steps.
Competently pouring the foundation is a rather painstaking task. It is necessary to take into account the terrain at the site itself, the presence of groundwater and its level, seasonality of precipitation, temperature fluctuations throughout the year, and so on. The most popular foundations for the construction of frame houses are pile or pile-grillage foundations, as well as strip foundations.
For the climate of our country, the optimal solution would be to choose a pile-grillage foundation. It is easy to use, durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. In addition, it evenly distributes the weight of the house onto the supports.
It is better to choose piles for such a foundation with an expanded heel, this increases their load-bearing characteristics. You can drill holes for them manually with a drill or using automation. For formwork, take roofing felt folded in several layers, or pipes made of PVC or asbestos cement. Rebar reinforcement bars are fastened inside the piles, and then the whole thing is filled with concrete. After pouring, a grillage (formwork for tape) is attached on top, into which the associated reinforcement is placed, which, in turn, is connected to the ends of the reinforcement from the piles. It is advisable to immediately leave space for laying communications and ventilation.
Studs must be attached to the foundation strip (every 1-2 m, 30 cm from the corners) - then the strapping beam will be attached to them. And then follows a general pouring of concrete (for strength, you can cover it with polyethylene). The foundation for the panel building is ready; at a comfortable external temperature of about 20 degrees, after 4-5 days you can move forward with construction. If the temperature is lower, you will have to wait longer - from 10 days.
First, we waterproof the foundation using bitumen mastic, roofing felt or waterproofing material. The first layer is liquid insulation, then roll insulation follows, and dry boards (beds) are attached on top, the edges of which are aligned with the height of the foundation. A second layer of boards is laid on top of the first layer to cover possible gaps.
And the strapping boards are already attached to the beds - they are installed on the edge, leveled and nailed to their base. The next step will be the installation of logs - in terms of the method of fastening, they resemble the installation of strapping, they are nailed with oblique nails.
When the base for the floor is prepared, you can begin to insulate it. There are various ways to insulate the floor covering, including using inexpensive polystyrene foam, especially since it is not afraid of moisture. The approximate thickness of expanded polystyrene will be about 150 mm; it is laid in 2 layers to cover joints and seams. Additionally, it is recommended to apply sealant around the perimeter to ensure complete insulation of the surface.
After insulation, we lay the subfloor from boards and a top layer of plywood. If the plywood is large enough (more than 15 mm), then you can do without re-flooring. If not, then it would be better to make another layer of boards overlapping with the first level. Our floor is ready.
When constructing walls, you can use 2 technologies - frame-panel and “balloon”. According to the first, the wall frame is assembled on the floor, then it is placed and fastened as a ready-made element. According to the second technology, the wall is built gradually, so to speak, “on site.” The lower frame beam is attached, the corner posts are mounted, then there are intermediate ones, then another frame, and so on. Both methods are quite accessible for manual assembly.
Corner posts are selected in sizes from 100x100 to 150x150 mm, based on the total load. Intermediate posts can be smaller in thickness - up to 50 mm. The width of the gaps between the studs will depend on the insulation chosen. Such racks are fastened with ordinary dowels.
Next, let's talk about mowing. If the wall is being built from durable material, you will only need bevels temporarily while the exterior sheathing is missing. If the sheathing is inlaid, the slopes must be installed immediately and on an ongoing basis; they will give the structure the required rigidity.
Floor beams usually rest on the beams of the upper frame. Floors can be attached to:
– corners;
– steel brackets;
– or be with a sidebar.
If the floors are fastened with a notch, then the depth of the cut usually does not exceed half the thickness of the timber from the top frame. Each element is secured on top with 2 nails.
The dimensions of the beams are selected depending on the future number of storeys of the house. If a second floor is planned, the cross-section of the beams should be large and the installation step should be smaller. In addition, in this case, the floors will need to be covered with the subfloor of the next floor.
If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, then the best option the roof for it will be a gable or mansard option (look at the photo)
– their designs are very similar. The only condition will be to choose a roofing material with low weight so that the wooden floors can withstand it.
To fasten rafter systems, bars are nailed along the edges of the beams, and a notch is made for it in the rafters. We stuff the sheathing and fix the rafter systems in a certain position.
A well-known insulating material for panel wooden houses is basalt wool, it is especially practical in mats - they can easily be used to insulate frame walls, they have excellent density and are more comfortable.
Mineral wool can also be used. However, for all its excellent insulating properties, it can get wet, so it should be additionally covered with a membrane.
Actually, that's all. In very general terms, but panel house You built it with your own hands and you have something to be proud of. As a visual aid, we recommend watching the video below.
A frame-panel house is chosen due to its relative cheapness, speed of construction and the possibility of occupancy immediately after construction. After all, finishing the walls is not required, just connect the communications and you can start living. At the same time, to build a house from SIP panels, special equipment is not needed. You can manage on your own.
The frame house is also assembled on site from ready-made elements. All the necessary building materials are delivered to the construction site; all you need to do is assemble them like a construction set.
But, in order to further reduce the cost of building such a house, frame-panel elements can be made independently. Of course, this will require excellent construction skills, because the slightest error in measurements can lead to misalignment of the entire building.
Where does the construction of a house begin? Of course, from the construction of the foundation! But how to choose the optimal foundation for your home so that the reliability of the building does not suffer and you do not overpay?
So, there are only three options for foundations, all the rest are their variations:
For heavy buildings this is best option, besides, your own basement will never be superfluous. But this is also the most expensive option, because you will have to take care of proper waterproofing, and the amount of concrete poured is directly proportional to the depth of the foundation.
A columnar foundation is the most economical and easiest to build with your own hands. Even a novice builder can handle it without using complex and expensive equipment. Shallow foundations are suitable for non-heaving and slightly heaving soils and light buildings.
Otherwise, the depth of the foundation should also be below the freezing level of the soil.
The foundation on piles is universal option. There is no need for a level platform - the piles themselves are leveled. The house can even be placed on a slope, which significantly reduces construction costs. But to drive or screw in piles you will have to use special equipment.
So, the choice fell on the simplest and most economical option for a foundation - a columnar one. But it’s important not to go cheap here, otherwise mistakes will be very difficult to correct in the future. For example, under no circumstances should you simply place pillars on a concrete platform!
In just one season, such a “foundation” will unevenly sink into the ground, distorting the entire house.
Stages of foundation construction:
Even larch timber will begin to rot in such conditions. It is mandatory to lay several layers of roofing material under the tree.
According to SNiPs, the grillage support board must be secured to the foundation with anchors with a diameter of 12 mm or more. To do this, anchors are first embedded in the pillars, and holes are drilled in the boards required diameter. To prevent the wooden grillage from rotting, the anchor bolts are treated with bitumen along with the foundation pillars.
The lower trim is mounted on the grillage. The floor joists are laid on support bars and can be cut into the frame beam or attached to it with metal corners from the inside.
Without a basement floor, attention needs to be paid to insulating the floor Special attention, otherwise the cold air blown in from the underground will significantly worsen living conditions. And for the insulation to last a long time, it must be well insulated from moisture.
The waterproofing film is water- and vapor-tight on both sides. That is why it is believed that it should be located on the outside and protect the insulation from the influence of the external environment. But in this case, excess moisture will condense in the insulation, worsening its properties. The optimal solution is a vapor-permeable windproofing that does not allow moisture to pass through from the outside, but evaporates it from the inside.
The vapor barrier protects the insulation from the ingress of vapors generated inside the building. It should be laid on the inside close to the insulation. But in the case of the floor, everything is not so simple, because the water will not evaporate downwards, settling just on the vapor barrier laid on the insulation.
That is why a vapor barrier is laid on the floor on top of the insulation with a mandatory ventilation gap between the insulation and the floor boards, allowing moisture to evaporate.
But how to choose insulation? Of course, the main criterion will always be price and availability in a particular region. If the choice is quite diverse, you can compare the advantages and disadvantages of the most popular ones:
The main thing is to guess the weather and not start building during the rainy season.
A frame house can be built in two ways - by sheathing and insulating a ready-made frame, or by first assembling individual elements and only then installing them. The first method is suitable for small buildings - verandas, closed gazebos and outbuildings. If large-scale construction is planned, it can be much easier to assemble a house from pre-prepared walls.
To do this you need:
The finished frames are lifted and screwed to the beams of the lower frame. First, two opposite walls are installed, then the remaining ones. You can do it on your own, the main thing is to attract more help.
After this, you can begin to assemble the internal partitions.
For clarity, the video shows the assembly of the walls of a frame house and their sequential installation:
It is important not to forget that the beams of the upper frame must cover the joints and joint corners - otherwise the entire structure may become loose in the future. And already on the top frame you can install the rafter system and lay the roofing.
For a frame house, you should choose lightweight materials - this will avoid strengthening the frame of the walls and foundation, which will significantly reduce the cost of construction. Thus, frame-panel houses look great with:
Metal tiles and corrugated sheets are quite easy to install, but are quite noisy when it rains. And if in the house, thanks to a good layer of insulation, this is practically unnoticeable, then being, for example, in an adjacent gazebo during a summer downpour is not very comfortable. Seam roofing is one of the most reliable, but quite difficult to install.
And since it is also assembled from metal elements, its disadvantages are the same as those of the previous options.
Bitumen shingles, also called soft shingles, look very attractive, but require continuous sheathing. Even a non-specialist can handle the installation, but the work is quite painstaking.
But euro slate can be an excellent option for the roof of a frame house. It is light and durable, laid in sheets, does not require special installation skills and can be attached to thin lathing.
There are two options for collecting rafter supports - directly on the wall, if the interfloor ceiling is ready, or on the ground and then lifting them up. The last option is useful if there is no interfloor ceiling yet.
What you need to know when installing a rafter system:
It is necessary to insulate the roof only if there is a living space there. Otherwise, it will be sufficient to insulate the attic floor. But if the attic is planned for residential use, the floor is not insulated.
You can install insulation in the under-roof space from the outside, if the roof covering has not yet been laid, or from the inside. The first option is in some ways simpler - the insulation does not need to be lifted above you. But balancing on the roof is quite difficult, so the choice here is entirely individual.
If there is insufficient ventilation under roofing covering The condensate will not evaporate, but will begin to settle and, as a result, the roof elements will collapse. Therefore, it is imperative to leave a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roof. The waterproofing itself is also not always laid close to the insulation - here you need to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. From the inside, the insulation is protected by a vapor barrier layer.
It is necessary not to forget to glue the joints and puncture points of the insulating film with special butyl rubber tape. It provides the necessary tightness, which significantly extends the service life of the insulation.
Thus, building a frame-panel house with your own hands is a difficult job, but it is quite within the capabilities of a confident builder. If you don’t have the necessary skills yet, it’s better to try your hand at building on a smaller scale. For example, a gazebo or garage would be a great start!
The construction of frame houses came to us from abroad. These easily erected structures are the basis for the construction of country houses and cottages in Scandinavia and a number of European countries. The basis of construction technology is assembled frames made of wood or metal profile, mineral wool and basalt insulation are used for insulation. The wall takes on a finished look after it is covered with various slabs, for example, DSP. The final coating is already applied to these slabs.
As a material for the frame, new dried timber of various sections, made of coniferous species.
Undoubtedly, wood has a number of properties that give it advantages over stone and metal - this is the ability to breathe, and much more. But at the same time, wood has disadvantages; without appropriate treatment, it is prone to the appearance of fungus or mold; in addition, if a number of conditions are met, the possibility of the appearance of strains of harmful microorganisms arises.
All of these factors lead to the fact that some developers prefer frame structures made of metal. The metal profile has a zinc coating, which can guarantee long-term protection against corrosion. In addition, the necessary perforation has already been prepared on the metal profile for frame house construction.
The difference between frame housing construction and environmental friendliness. Only natural wood and the possibility of using natural insulation.
In addition, a frame house can be built without the help of a large team.
Now it is believed that a frame-panel house can only be a country house. However, the experience of many European countries, for example, Swedish or German technology, tells us about the successful possibility of using a frame house in winter and summer for. Reviews also confirm this.
So, let's start building a house with step-by-step, step-by-step instructions. We hope they help you.
Buying a frame house is not difficult; you just need to contact a specialized company that sells such products or, having developed a project yourself, build your own home. The order of construction work can be displayed in the following list:
At the first two stages, the possibility of building a house in this place is clarified. If this is possible, then the type of foundation and its design are determined. As a result of this work, a specification and estimate appear, which contains a list of materials and tools, their estimated cost. Before starting all this preparatory work, the developer must draw up technical specifications for the future home.
Depending on the condition of the soil and the mass of the future house, the developer determines the type of foundation. Practice shows that any type of foundation can be used - a foundation on screw piles, or columnar. During construction columnar foundation It is necessary to have at least an approximate drawing of the location of the walls on hand.
The essence of this foundation is that the pillars will be placed in the corners of the building and in places of maximum load on the structure. For this type of foundation, concrete and brick are used.
Before starting work, it is necessary to mark the location of the pillars.
After it has been carried out and quality checked, you can begin to manufacture the pillars themselves. For this, you can use separate formwork, or you can arrange their production directly on the site.
The first step is to make a pole support, it is called a shoe. Look at the photo, it shows a schematic diagram of a pile with a shoe. Its dimensions are up to 30 cm in height and 25–30 cm in cross-section. Its design includes a reinforcing mesh, which is located parallel to the surface of the earth; several vertical reinforcing bars can be installed - they will serve as the basis for the pillar. After the shoe has hardened, the main part of the foundation column can be made. To do this, you can use either a piece of pipe or build a wooden formwork. The height of the entire structure is equal to the sum of two terms - the depth of the hole (freezing height) and the amount of the column extending above the ground (from 100 mm).
Some experts use traditional M300 grade concrete as a material, while others use sand concrete. In fact, the type of concrete used must be determined at the calculation stage. The main thing to remember is that the material for making the shoe and the base must be the same. To carry out further work it is necessary to give finished parts dry. This process will take at least 7 days, but using bricks or cinder blocks will speed up the drying process by several days.
Once the pillars are ready, you can begin installing them. To do this, you will need a hole drill, which will allow you to dig a hole under the post. The size of the hole must exceed the size of the shoe. The installation of pillars is carried out in strict accordance with the markings of the foundation. The pillars are installed at a distance of 1–2 m from each other in places of greatest load, for example, under a heating boiler. After installing the pillars, the space between them and the walls of the pit can be filled with crushed stone and sand.
Completion of the foundation construction allows work to begin on the construction of the main load-bearing structures. The basis of the walls and everything else in a frame house is the grillage. This is a wooden or metal structure that is laid on foundation pillars protruding from the ground. Along its contour, the grillage follows the outline of the future house. When installing it, be sure to use measuring instruments, allowing you to control its horizontality. The dimensions of the timber or metal profile are determined by the weight of the building structure being erected.
After installing the grillage, you can begin installing the wall frame. For this, you can use timber with section dimensions of 150x50 or more. The timber must be made from coniferous trees and dried to a moisture content of 12–18%. In addition, we must remember that everything wooden structures must be processed protective equipment from mold, mildew and fire.
The wall frame can be assembled nearby on a flat piece of land; when assembling the frame, it is necessary to immediately prepare window and door openings. The finished frame of one wall can be installed on a grillage and secured with jibs. As with all assembly operations, builders must use measuring tool for installation of wall frames in strict orientation along planes.
Creating a roof is one of the most important moments when building a house using frame technology. Errors that occur during its construction lead to deformation of the roof and violation of the thermal insulation regime. As a result, its destruction may occur. The ceiling is responsible for solving several problems, namely:
If the developer provides for the presence of a second floor or, then the ceiling must be reinforced. Depending on the load that the ceiling will take on, the cross-sectional size of the ceiling beam is selected. For example, if the useful and non-residential load is 147 kg per square centimeter, then it is necessary to use beams with a section of 150 * 50 m with a pitch of 400 mm between them.
The process of installing joists and rafters for them is no different from the process carried out during the construction of a traditional house.
That is, after marking, the logs are nailed to the top plank of the wall frame in a vertical position.
In order to secure the lag, it is enough to use three nails, two are driven in on one side, and one on the other, at both ends.
The rafters can be assembled on a flat area of the construction site and, after they have been assembled and checked for correctness, lifted up. The assembly of the roof begins with one of the facades; the use of a plumb line is mandatory. Having placed the first rafter, it is necessary to fix it with jibs, and after installing the second, it is advisable to tie the installed structures together. In addition to the fact that the rafters are connected to each other, to increase the strength of the structure, it makes sense to connect the rafters and joists using a vertically lowered board. This is how the rafters are installed sequentially.
Installation of sheathing also does not differ from such an operation carried out during the construction of a roof on an ordinary house. Laying of hydro- and thermal insulation is carried out in accordance with the instructions supplied with this product. Both artificial and natural materials. To reduce the weight of the structure, it is advisable to use polystyrene foam, which is produced in sheets of different thicknesses.
One more positive property A frame house can also be called that all finishing work can be carried out without waiting for it to shrink. You can begin to carry them out immediately after the openings are in place and the wall frame itself is sheathed with slabs. Then the developer can begin finishing the walls inside and out.
The material that is used to cover the walls from the inside, and this can be DSP or its analogues, allows you to apply almost any finishing material to its surface - wallpaper, tiles and others. It all depends on the choice of the developer and the interior design of the future premises.
With work on finishing the house outside, the situation is somewhat more complicated. Depending on the climate zone in which the frame house is built, additional insulation may be required. For these works you will need insulation, a waterproofing film, as well as a wooden beam or galvanized metal profile to create the sheathing. To insulate the walls, a sheathing made of wooden beam or metal profile.
The dimensions of the sheathing must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation that will be laid in it. Some experts recommend laying a layer on top of the insulation waterproofing film. If the task is to create a ventilated facade, then it is necessary to attach smaller beams to the vertical beams of the installed sheathing, and the siding will be attached to them. The created space will serve for natural ventilation and do not allow excess moisture to accumulate.
The experience of erecting a frame house by those who rely only on their own strength shows that the entire cycle of work from building the foundation to the start of finishing, with proper organization of labor, no interruptions in materials and the presence of one or two assistants, can take three to four months.
Building a house with your own hands is also beneficial from an economic point of view. Buying finished design, the developer pays for the project, Construction Materials, in addition, the labor of builders and installers, by the way, who will erect the house in approximately the same time frame, is paid. The project price ranges from 5-50,000 rubles. If you buy a ready-made house project, it will cost about 15,000 rubles, and if you order individual project at home with an architect, it will cost 30,000 - 50,000 rubles. Nowadays, many architectural studios work remotely, so even if they are in Biysk, they will be able to design your dream home project. In other words, at a cost finished house and the work on its construction is approximately 1.5 million rubles, you need to understand that this figure depends on the region and the configuration; construction on your own will cost twice as much. For example, some companies offer their clients country houses at a price from 1,115,000 rubles to 1,824,000, and dachas - within 300,000 rubles.
If you are not ready to build a house or you don’t have the opportunity, then order a turnkey house using Canadian, Scandinavian or Finnish technologies.
Watch a video about building a frame house with your own hands.
