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» DIY rabbit cages - simple and advanced designs. How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands - types of structures, preparation for work and step-by-step construction technology Rabbit hutch dimensions

DIY rabbit cages - simple and advanced designs. How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands - types of structures, preparation for work and step-by-step construction technology Rabbit hutch dimensions

In order for rabbits to grow and develop well, it is important not only to feed them properly, but also to provide them with comfortable living conditions. That is, build comfortable, spacious housing for the animals. The sizes of cages for rabbits may vary. It all depends on what breed they are intended for.

Minimum dimensions

The cages are made in such a way that per head there is at least:

  • for sexually mature female rabbits - 0.5-0.7 m2;
  • repair rabbits - 0.17 m2;
  • young animals - 0.12 m2;
  • breeding males - 0.3-0.5 m2.

A large rabbit (giant, Flanders) will need a home measuring at least 0.75 (w) x 0.55 (h) x 1.7 (d) m. Smaller animals (chinchilla) - 0.6 x 0.45 x 0.9 m. The dimensions of cages for dwarf and decorative breeds of rabbits will be appropriate.

What should the design be?

Typically, rabbit cages are built on a timber frame. The back and side walls, as well as the roof, are made of thick plywood or boards. The front part is made of mesh with a fine mesh (for example, 2.5 x 5 cm). The floor of the cage should be sloping. It is also made from mesh (1.5 x 5 cm) or slats packed parallel to each other. A tray is installed under the floor to collect manure. This design will allow you to keep the “room” clean. The lid, if the cages are installed outdoors, should be made pitched and protruding forward by about 20 cm and on the sides by 10 cm. It is covered with slate or corrugated sheets on top.

The cage should be raised above the ground by at least 70-80 cm. Caring for animals with this arrangement is much easier. And the animals themselves will be protected from attacks by dogs and small rodents entering the cage. Very often, cells are arranged in rows of several tiers. One dwelling can be used for either one or two adult rabbits (or several small ones).

Hanging removable drinkers and feeders are hung on the front side. It is best to make them rotating. This will make feeding the rabbits easier. In addition, animal feces will not fall into the feeders. Next, let's look at what the “rooms” for the queens should be, as well as the size of the cages for keeping rabbits and breeding them.

Cages for rabbits

Housing for sexually mature females is divided into two parts: feeding and uterine. As a partition, use plywood with a hole cut into it with a diameter of 20 cm. It should be located above the floor at a height of approximately 10-15 cm. This is necessary so that small rabbits do not crawl into the aft part. The floor in the queen cell is made not from slats or mesh, but from solid plywood. The front door of the queen cell is made of board or plywood. For the stern part it is made of mesh. Before breeding, the queen cell itself, measuring 0.4 x 0.4 m and 20 cm high, is installed in the nesting compartment.

Standard double option

In addition to multi-tiered ones, long cages are often used in private households. A couple of animals are placed in them at once. Dimensions of cages for double rabbits:

  • in length - 210-240 cm;
  • width - 65 cm;
  • in height from the facade - 50-60 cm;
  • height from the rear wall - 35 cm.

Queen cells are located on the sides of such cells. The remaining part houses the aft compartments. The floor in them is made of lattice, and in the nesting compartments it is solid. In the middle of the cage there are mangers made of V-shaped mesh, designed for distributing roughage. Drinkers and feeders for grain are hung on the doors.

Cages with aviaries

Such dwellings are usually arranged for young animals. Walking is very beneficial for teenage rabbits. After all, these animals are naturally very active and love to move a lot. The dimensions of cages for rabbits, designed for two animals, and with an enclosure are usually as follows:


The enclosure is located along the back wall and has the same height as it - 60 cm. The cage and the paddock are separated by a removable partition.

Group cages for young animals

There are other types of similar structures. Of course, in this case, certain cage sizes for rabbits are also selected. Drawings are drawn up, for example, in such a way that the housing turns out to be:

  • length equal to 2-4 m;
  • wide - 1 m;
  • with a front wall height of 50 cm;
  • rear - 40 cm.

In this case, the back and side walls and lid are made of thick plywood, and the front and floor are made of mesh. The length of the visor is 30 cm.

Cages for California rabbits

This breed has recently become increasingly popular in our country. It's all about the very good adaptability of Californian rabbits to the weather conditions of any region. They have very thick fur on their paws. Therefore, they do not freeze in winter. For animals of this breed, housing is arranged in the same way as for any other not too large one. The optimal cage sizes for California rabbits are 120 x 60 x 60 cm.

Cells of N. I. Zolotukhin

This option has recently attracted great interest among rabbit breeders. N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding furry animals for more than 60 years and has independently designed two types of rather convenient and practical cages for them - three-tiered and pyramidal.

The main feature of the first option is solid plywood floors. Only a 15 cm wide strip is made of mesh at the back of the cage. A biological feature of rabbits is that they go to the toilet in this very place (70% of all feces and all urine are collected here). To prevent waste products from falling on the heads of animals from the lower tiers, the rear wall of the cage is made inclined. That is, the grid on the floor protrudes beyond the plane of the complex. The back wall is made of opaque polycarbonate.

The floors of the pyramidal variety of Zolotukhin cells have the same design. However, in this case, the tiers are simply shifted relative to each other by the width of the mesh strip. As a result, the complex takes on a pyramidal shape when viewed in profile.

Another feature of Zolotukhin’s cages are folding feeders. They don't spin on hinges or anything like that. complex device, but on ordinary nails. The size of Zolotukhin's rabbit cages is not too large - approximately 70 x 100 cm. However, the animals feel very good in them. When keeping rabbits in cages designed by this farmer, it is not necessary to carry out thorough weekly cleaning. It is enough to sweep completely dry floors from time to time. Manure is cleared from the back of the tiers from the ground 1-2 times a year.

Sheds

So, now you know what size rabbit cages should be. Drawings of such structures are presented on this page. Now let's see where to place the finished cells. Of course, you can put them right on the street. In this case, tiers are usually placed under trees. With this arrangement, in summer the animals will be protected from direct sunlight, and in winter - from the piercing wind. However, it is better to install cages in special sheds. This is what they call buildings with gable roof, the side walls of which are formed by the rear walls of the tiers. That is, the cells are installed in two rows with the facades facing the inside of the resulting room.

Shed doors are made with swing doors. They are often double. In this case, in addition to solid panels, a mesh door is installed. In summer, the wooden doors open. The screen door remains closed. As a result, the animals receive more light and fresh air. On the south side there is usually an enclosure for walking young animals.

Rabbit barn

It is not necessary to install the cages exactly in the shad. Protect animals from rain, snow and severe frosts You can also arrange a comfortable shed for them. The most important thing when drawing up a project for such a structure is to ensure that there are no drafts in it. Rabbits cannot tolerate them at all. It is best to make the roof of a barn pitched. In this case, it will be possible to dry and store hay on it. Floors are usually arranged slightly inclined towards the entrance. With this design it will be more convenient to clean.

Be sure to install several windows in the barn. For good development rabbits need Fresh air and a lot of light. Inside the shed there must be a corner designed for storing equipment.

Cages for young animals are usually placed along the walls. The rabbits' homes with queen cells are in the middle of the barn.

What you need to know

The required dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits, keeping queens and breeding rabbits during production must be observed. If you put a large animal in a small “room”, nothing good will come of it. Deprived of the opportunity to move freely, the animal will develop poorly. The discomfort in the cages also affects the rabbits' ability to reproduce. In addition, when there is a lot of crowding, the risk of various types of infectious diseases increases.

As you can see, making cages and even a shed for rabbits yourself is not at all difficult. Comfortable homes for these animals have a fairly simple design. The optimal size of cages for rabbits depends only on the body constitution of that particular breed.

Those who decide to start breeding rabbits always have the question of making a comfortable cage for rodents. Housing for long-eared animals can be designed in different ways, and can be made either in a factory or with your own hands. Let's focus on the last option.

What materials can it be made from?

When planning the construction of rabbit hutches, the first thing you should think about is choosing the right ones. building materials. In principle, for the construction of a simple structure capable of protecting animals from adverse external factors, any available means will do.

In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with full responsibility.

Wood

Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle making a wooden cage

Wood is used very widely in the construction of rabbit cages. Any structural elements can be made from it. It is from wooden beams that the frame of the future cage is usually made. Floors made of wooden planks are also popular among rabbit breeders.

The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.. Wooden elements can be easily given almost any shape. You should not lose sight of the excellent thermal insulation properties of wood: in winter a wooden rabbitry will be warm, and in summer it will not be too hot.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth highlighting rapid destruction. Rabbits love to chew on everything around them, so the wooden elements of the interior of the cage are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, due to its porous structure, wood absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to install a solid wooden floor in a cage.

Important! Insects and humidity also contribute to the rapid destruction of wood, therefore all wooden structural elements must be treated protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure it is safe for animals.

Metal

Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill

Metal is a more durable material for construction compared to wood. Rabbits can't chew through metal elements, they are easy to wash and are not afraid of insects. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.

The frame of the future cage is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior of wooden cages to prevent the natural material from being chewed through. But it is not recommended to make the roof and outer walls of the cage out of metal, since they can get very hot in the sun, and freeze in the cold, which can pose a threat to the health of long-eared residents.

Galvanized profile

Galvanized profiles are used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.

Plastic elements

Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat

Plastic pipes can become an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cells for use in any conditions.

When working with plastic, it is important to keep animal safety in mind. Internal structural elements that can get in the teeth of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure its mouth or esophagus from shrapnel, as well as be poisoned by synthetic substances included in the material.

Important! When exposed to extreme heat (for example, in the heat), some types of plastic release toxic substances.

Bricks and clay

Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit hutches mainly in hot regions. The bases for the houses are laid with bricks, and the seams are coated with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Net

The walls of rabbit cages are made solid, in the form of a lattice of slats, or they are made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be a mesh, which should have medium or small cells and be strong enough.

Slate

The most practical material for making a roof for a rabbit hutch is slate. It will perfectly perform its protective function, without overheating in the sun and without being afraid of moisture.

Available materials

Rabbits are not the easiest animals to care for. For temporary housing or in conditions of critical savings, houses made from scrap materials are suitable. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers to contain rodents, or assemble multi-story structures from industrial pallets.

Each material has special properties, which can be both a plus and a minus. You should be guided in your choice based on the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions (climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings if you plan to use them.

Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

When choosing a cage option for rabbits, you can opt for a Zolotukhin or Mikhailov cage

There are many options for cages for rabbits, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and the presence of “conveniences” in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet it is easy to find original drawings like Zolotukhin’s or Mikhailov’s designs.

If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then optimal parameters the dimensions will be:

  • Length - 120–150 cm;
  • Width - 60–80 cm;
  • Height - 60 cm.

In order to rationally consume material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cages. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.

There is no need to save space and make smaller cells. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop producing offspring.

In appearance, a typical cell resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult individual. Most often in construction, wood and plywood are used for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, and slate for roofing.

The floor of the cage is rarely made solid. Usually it is assembled from narrow slats or a mesh is used, as this simplifies the care of rodents. Rabbits produce a lot of waste, which ends up in a specially designed area through a mesh or slatted floor. installed pallet. If flooring make it continuous, you will have to clean it too often.

To make a standard cell you will need the following materials:

  • Wooden beams - 10 pieces, size 300x3x5 cm;
  • Sheets of plywood - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
  • Metal mesh - 3 m with a cell size no larger than 15 mm;
  • Self-tapping screws - approximately 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
  • Accessories - door hinges and latches;
  • Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.

Tools for work:

  • Hand saw or grinder;
  • Metal scissors or wire cutters;
  • A screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of screws);
  • Tape measure, pencil, level.

Drawing

Drawing of a typical cage for rabbits

The drawing shows all the main structural elements and the dimensions in cm.

Manufacturing instructions

  1. Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. It is assembled from wooden beams, which are sawn according to size and fastened with screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
  2. The floor of the future cage is assembled from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. The closed nesting compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by laying down plywood.
  3. The back and side walls of the cage and the feeder are also made from plywood.
  4. Having made the doors using metal mesh and leftover wood, you should secure them with fittings.
  5. At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.

Video: Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

In addition to the covered part, a cage for decorative rabbits must have an open part.

The more spacious the home for a decorative rabbit, the better. Animal comfort is also provided by the construction of two-story structures or enclosures for walking. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, so the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors for the design of the home are much lower.

The flooring in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, since it does not have soft pads. Ideal option is a wooden floor covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent diapers, etc.).

Required tools and materials

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves using the following materials:

  • Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden panels: it is better to take extra, focusing on the dimensions of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
  • Metal sheet (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
  • Wooden slats;
  • Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
  • Self-tapping screws or nails;
  • Door fittings.

Tools for work:

  • Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
  • Screwdriver or hammer;
  • Nippers or metal scissors;

Drawing

Drawing of a multi-tiered cage for decorative rabbits

The dimensions in the drawing are indicated in centimeters. The size and design of the cage are optimal for keeping one adult individual in a heated room.

Manufacturing instructions

  1. The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins from the floor. A base measuring 90x60 cm is cut out of chipboard or a wooden board.
  2. On wooden base lay a metal shield of similar dimensions.
  3. Then, boards for walls measuring 45x60 cm are prepared from wood or chipboard.
  4. The frame is assembled using nails or self-tapping screws.
  5. The door is made from wooden slats and metal mesh. Optimal size for the door - 30x30 cm.
  6. The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
  7. The staircase is made of slats, maintaining a width of at least 15 cm, and is installed close to the second tier, carefully securing it.

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits is quite simple. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design can cope with the task. Paint cell surfaces paint and varnish materials It’s not worth it, as rodents can become poisoned by toxic substances by gnawing on structural elements.

Video: DIY two-story rabbit cage

Design Features

All rabbit cages are designed based on general principles, however, different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit breeder plans to keep. Any productive farm keeps several groups of rabbits at the same time. different ages or even breeds.

Depending on whether the rabbit hutch will be located outdoors or indoors, you should choose suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cages can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.

Rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults) require special housing conditions, and accordingly, the cages for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cages with nests.

The size of the cages should be planned in such a way that the animals have enough space and space. Obviously, cages for giant rabbits and dwarf rabbits will be very different from each other.

Depending on the size of the rabbits

The size of the cage is directly related to the dimensions of future residents

Optimal dimensions for a spacious cage containing a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:

  • Length - 120–170 cm;
  • Width - 60–80 cm;
  • Height - 50–60 cm.

Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will need more modest conditions:

  • Length - 70–90 cm;
  • Width - 35–55 cm;
  • Height - 30–50 cm.

Giant rabbits will need much more space:

  • Length - 85–100 cm;
  • Width - 70–80 cm;
  • Height - 60–80 cm.

Multi-tiered cells

Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous maintenance large quantity rodents of different sexes and ages. Multi-tiered structures for keeping animals come to the aid of rabbit breeders. The cages are installed in both two and three tiers. Cages with several levels for rabbits are capital structures, which, however, are quite easy to build yourself.

Multi-tier cages based on Zolotukhin’s drawings are popular among rabbit farm owners. They have a number of advantages:

  • Capacity;
  • The ability to keep all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males) in one place;
  • It is convenient to care for animals;
  • Zolotukhin cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.

Depending on the purpose

If there is a female rabbit with her young rabbits living in a cage, then they definitely need to have a secluded place.

Depending on their purpose, rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:

  • Standard cage for permanent keeping. It’s easy to find a drawing of such a cage on the Internet and build a home for rodents yourself. You should pay attention to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of the materials;
  • The breeding cage should be much more spacious, since several individuals will be in it at the same time;
  • A special type of house for a female rabbit with her young or a pregnant female is called a queen cell. A secluded place and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbits. As a rule, the queen cell has solid walls, a kind of house that imitates a cramped hole and devices for feeding a mother;
  • The cage for young animals meets standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional enclosure for walking. The opportunity to stretch a little has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of fragile cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often provides the animals with access to fresh grass.

Depending on the climate and time of year

The optimal ambient temperature for rabbits to feel normal is 14–16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from precipitation and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.

In large rabbit farms, keeping rodents in winter and summer involves different kinds cells. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber; sometimes they are heated with water.

In regions with a temperate climate without sharp temperature changes, it is possible to keep rabbits year-round in identical portable structures, which, when the first cold weather sets in, are transferred to closed room. IN summer period such cells are again moved to the open air.

Choosing a location for installation

Rabbit hutches can be placed both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with warm climates or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.

Rabbits do not tolerate high humidity well, so in the open air a place should be chosen that is remote from bodies of water, preferably on a hill. Direct Sun rays can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special canopy or bush fence.

When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase daylight hours for the animals and give them more warmth. Daylight is generally very important for breeding, especially with regard to young individuals. Therefore, in the autumn winter period It will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional lighting and heating of the cells.

Don't forget about general hygiene in premises where animals are kept. Rabbits produce a lot of waste that needs to be removed promptly. At least once a year it is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire structure and the room itself. This will prevent the proliferation of bacteria and viruses.

Arrangement

Feeder options for rabbit cage

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, housing for permanent keeping of rabbits provides a supply of fresh water and food. Now you can purchase ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized websites. However, you can make simple feeders and drinkers yourself.

Some rabbit hutch plans include built-in structures, while some require feeding facilities to be installed separately.

The flooring for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the animal from developing pododermatitis. The best options are considered sawdust or absorbent textile diapers.

How to crate train a rabbit

If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will get used to it quickly enough

IN natural environment rabbits live in burrows. When keeping animals productively, providing them with adequate privacy is very difficult. If a rabbit hutch is not constructed correctly, has sharp interior edges, is small in space, or is located in a noisy environment, the animals will experience stress that will adversely affect their health and reproductive performance.

Accustoming a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide it with the most comfortable living conditions.

Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business in the countryside. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and tips from this article, anyone, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder, will be able to design the right cage that is ideal for their rabbits.

If desired, minimum costs With enough time and effort, you can build a cage for rabbits yourself. It is enough to choose the most suitable design, purchase materials, develop a diagram, or take a ready-made one from the Internet.

Do-it-yourself production of rabbit hutches is a profitable alternative to the expensive services of craftsmen, since the basis of the design can be improvised materials.

The first thing you should pay attention to when making nurseries is the design. The parameters and quality of the final construction will depend on the chosen design.

There are several types of rabbit hutches:

  • single-tier;
  • two-tier;
  • three-tier;
  • multi-tiered;
  • monolithic;
  • portable;
  • shads;
  • nurseries in Zolotukhin, Tsvetkov, Rabbitax.

Nurseries differ in materials (wood, plywood, metal profiles) and the breed of pets. In the latter case, rabbitries are allocated for female rabbits and rabbits, for decorative breeds, dwarfs, etc.

Nurseries are designed for warm and cold seasons; for this purpose, special seals are installed in them, and the buildings are closed from precipitation.

How to make cages for rabbits with your own hands?

For rabbit breeding, it is enough to have a durable cage with insulation at home.

When building nurseries, the following rules and recommendations must be taken into account:

  1. Place animals of the same species, gender, weight and characteristic habits in one cage.
  2. Place individuals with offspring in buildings with two compartments and tiers.
  3. Standard parameters for nurseries: length about 80-120 cm, height about 50 cm, width about 70-80 cm.
  4. It is better to keep young animals together with everyone else in a group compartment.
  5. The number of rabbits in one cage is calculated based on its size.

Location


It is worth deciding on the location of the rabbitry before moving on to the construction stage, since it is then difficult to move it. The place should be protected from drafts, wind, and sun.

It is especially important to choose the right place for construction if it will be located outdoors.

Important! If the nursery is located outside around the clock, it is important to take care of roofing materials. It is best to exclude the use of metal for the roof; it is worth taking denser and heat-resistant materials. Wood or slate will do.

In this case, it is better to make a wooden floor with a retractable tray, which is covered with grating on top. The front and rear walls of the rabbitry are insulated with foam plastic, and a heated floor is installed for the winter.

What materials are most often used to make cells?

Rabbit farms are divided into types according to the material used for production.

When making your own at home, you use available materials:

  • wood;
  • slate;
  • corrugated sheeting;
  • brick;
  • metal profile.

Additionally, insulation, plaster, and sanding will be required. Often a rabbitry consists of a wooden frame and a solid wire mesh, which serves as a door and is equipped with latches and curtains.

Stages of creating a cage for rabbits

The construction of a two-section rabbitry takes place in the following stages:

  1. Frame assembly.
  2. Wall upholstery with plywood sheets.
  3. Laying the floor.
  4. Mounting walls between zones.
  5. Installation of doors, queen cell.
  6. Installation of a nursery.

Final stage – installation of feeders and drinkers, covering the floor with branches for the convenience of pets.

Cage frame

For homemade The frame often uses a solid wooden beam, which is sheathed on top with wood, oriented strand board or slate.

The frame is assembled according to a pre-prepared scheme; it is recommended to pre-treat the timber with an antiseptic. Self-tapping screws are used to secure the beams different sizes(from 25 to 75 mm).

Note! Since rabbits are rodents, they like to chew on wood and can wear down the interior, so it is recommended to line the cage with metal or slate.

After assembly, the top frame can be painted with a special primer paint. If the cage is located outside all year round, it is recommended to install it on wooden beams-legs. The optimal length of the frame legs varies from 80 to 100 cm. For a nursery located indoors, legs 30-40 cm long will be sufficient.

Roof installation

Depending on the chosen design, various materials are used for the manufacture and installation of the roof. roofing materials. Often, the roof for rabbit hutches is made from layers of slate.

Installation of slate sheets involves creating a certain angle of inclination. Since the frame is usually made of wooden beams, it is important to mount the roof in such a way that its edges do not extend beyond the frame by more than 5 cm. This way, the frame of the cage structure will be reliably protected from precipitation and rotting.

Slate leaves are attached to each other using nails with wide heads or self-tapping screws. Some designs of internal cages provide for the installation of a roof in the form of a simple galvanized mesh.

Queen cell arrangement

It is a special structure for the female rabbit, necessary to ensure maximum offspring. This is a special design that separates the common nest from the environment where the rabbits will be.


For this purpose, plywood sheets, boards, slats, hinges and insulating material are used, which is most often ordinary sawdust.

The process of installing a queen cell does not require much effort and skill. The frame itself is made according to ready-made diagram, use slats for edging, knock together a blank, insulate it and stuff a layer of plywood on top. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps during manufacturing. Finished walls the frame is fastened with self-tapping screws.

Feeder device

Feeders for long-eared pets can be purchased ready-made or made with my own hands. Drawings can be found on the Internet or prepared yourself.

There are different types of feeders depending on materials, shapes and designs:

  • ceramic bowls;
  • nursery feeders;
  • gutters;
  • bunkers;
  • cup-shaped feeders.

To make a feeder with your own hands, you use tin, wood, metal profiles, plastic, slate and plexiglass. The choice of material depends on the type of cell and its location (inside or outside).

You can also make a feeder from scrap materials (for example, from a tin can). The feeder is installed inside the nest. When making your own, it is important to ensure that the feeder does not have sharp corners, edges and jagged edges.

Types of cages for rabbits, drawings, dimensions, description

There are different types of cages based on parameters such as the breed of rabbits, living conditions, and size. Based on general parameters, external and stationary types of cells are distinguished.

The most extensive classification is the division of cells according to the breeds of inhabitants:

  1. General/group– represent an extensive nest designed for different quantities rabbits (from 10 or more), sizes vary from 60 to 120 cm. The design includes several sections for pets of the same weight, age, and temperament.
  2. Individual– a house for one adult pet is suitable for demanding and pugnacious males who need personal space.
  3. Queen cells– houses for female rabbits with their babies. Usually they are installed inside a group nest in the form of a box; they are a closed space with one opening.
  4. Sheds– a compact design with two tiers and sides, the cages are adjacent to each other with their back walls, this design comes in different sizes, it is used for young and adult pets.
  5. Individual designs by Mikhailov, Zolotukhin, Tsvetkov – The designs, developed on an individual basis according to the personal drawings of the creators, are distinguished by ergonomics, simplicity and compactness.

Cells from Zolotukhin: features and advantages

The famous rabbit breeder Nikolai Zolotukhin has developed his own cage design for long-eared pets, which is easy to manufacture and provides maximum protection for animals from external negative factors.

Typically, such a cage involves the construction of two floors and accommodates 3-6 adult pets.


The distinctive advantage of the rabbitry is its security, the inclination of the feeder, and the practicality of cleaning.

Its standard sizes:

  • width – 2 m;
  • height – 1.5-2 m;
  • depth – 60-80 cm;
  • back mesh – 15-20 cm;
  • door – 40x40 cm.

The cage design according to Tsvetkov involves a two-tier mini-farm with 4 cells. Such a cage is equipped with hanging feeders and drinkers, in which the water is automatically heated, and mounted queen cells.

Among the design features of A. A. Tsvetkov are:

  • two-tier device, 2 compartments per tier;
  • the cage is designed for outdoor living;
  • the presence of bunker feeders and automatic drinkers;
  • availability of ventilation and purification systems.

Sawdust, polystyrene foam, peat or tree bark are used as cell insulation. Roofing material or slate is used for roofing. The frame of this design is made of solid wooden beams, painted with white paint, insulated and protected with sheets of plywood.

- the simplest and most affordable option, made from metal mesh. Such a cage differs significantly from a wooden one in terms of practicality and cost-effectiveness.

It does not require regular maintenance and repair, is highly durable, and prevents damage to the material by pets. To manufacture the structure, solid metal wire with a diameter of 1.5-1.8 mm and a cell size of 12x50 mm is used.


Important! IN metal cage The common nest must be separated from the feeder section by a partition covered with a thin layer of metal.

This design is arranged rectangular or square and eliminates the possibility of sagging of the material.

A cage made of metal mesh is suitable exclusively for indoor use, because in the winter the metal cools down and in the summer it heats up, which negatively affects the condition of the pets.

A small cage excludes the establishment of a queen cell, which makes it suitable only for breeding males. The compact design is spacious and consists of 2 tiers that can accommodate up to 8 adult residents.

The compact cage does not take up much space, but is open, so it is only suitable for arrangement in the summer or indoors.


In compact type cages, it is impossible to put hay without lifting it onto a ladder. This cage requires frequent cleaning due to its open design and rapid accumulation of waste in the lower tiers.

The simplest design

For the manufacture of simplest design no additional materials or special tools are required. It consists of 2-3 tiers and can accommodate up to 8-9 pets.

However, this design more disadvantages than advantages. It does not have the ability to install nipple drinker, there is no section for hay, she requires regular cleaning and internal feeder devices.


Do-it-yourself two- or three-tier cage for rabbits: step-by-step instructions with photo examples

A two-tier cage is the most common and simplest design.


A two- or three-tier cage is installed as follows:

  1. Make a frame structure from bars 70 cm high and 120-150 cm long.
  2. Insulate the finished frame with plywood sheets.
  3. Referring to the drawing of the cage, leave space inside for arranging a common nest and.
  4. Install the nest and queen cell.
  5. Install partitions between the nest and feeding area.
  6. Install a slate roof and install hinges for easy access.
  7. Mount wooden door in the nesting compartment.
  8. Install a metal mesh door in the aft compartment.
  9. Lay the floor from wooden slats and cover it with a fine metal mesh on top.
  10. Place the bottom tray under the cage.
  11. Place insulating materials (hay, sawdust, polystyrene foam).
  12. Install a feeder and drinkers.

Features and advantages of the design

Two- and three-tier cage designs are considered the most convenient and profitable for breeding pets. The cage is designed with maximum comfort for the animals; inside there are feeders for feed, hay and fruits.

The design does not require regular cleaning and allows you to keep the compartments clean when keeping up to 25 adult pets. There is a separate compartment at the bottom for the mother and baby rabbits.

High quality, reliable and comfortable cells for rabbits it will not be difficult to make one yourself at home. In the presence of necessary materials you can build a practical mini-farm that will serve as a home for your pets for many years.

In order for the cage to perform its functions and bring maximum benefit, it is recommended to choose the type and design of the rabbitry, taking into account the breed, age and weight of the individuals. Comfortable conditions keeping will help raise healthy, strong and active animals without diseases and behavioral defects.

In this article we will tell you how to make a rabbit cage with your own hands ( step-by-step instruction). Creating cells with your own hands can easily be done from scrap materials, such as waste boards, pieces of plywood or chipboard, etc.

The design of the cages can vary greatly, but it is best to choose one whose construction will not take much time and will be suitable and practical for feeding rabbits, inspecting them and cleaning them.

Simple rabbit cage design

Most effective way breeding rabbits are Mikhailov's mini-farms, which can provide intensive breeding of rabbits with minimal time spent on animal care on the part of the farmer.

The design of Mikhailov’s cages is very well thought out and provides for automatic cleaning and provision of food for animals, water heating in drinking bowls, which is really important in the cold season, as well as heating of the queen cell in order to increase the survival rate of newborns in the winter.

In order to start breeding rabbits you do not need any special costs: you can make rabbit cages, water bowls, and feeders yourself, hay and branches can be prepared in the summer, root crops and vegetables can be taken from your garden.


Mikhailov cell design

The largest part of the costs will go to vaccinating animals and concentrating feed.

It is best to place adult rabbits and female rabbits with young rabbits in two-section cages. These dimensions are usually used as a guide for building cells: cell length one hundred twenty centimeters, cell height fifty centimeters, cell width seventy centimeters.

Young animals

The young should be kept in a large group cage, the size of which will correspond to the number of rabbits.

For example, for eight rabbits, a cage with the height and width as in the picture above is suitable. It is necessary to take into account the fact that in each cage you need to place rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age and weight.

DIY rabbit cage step by step instructions:


First you need to make a frame from wooden beams, its height should be 55 centimeters, its length should be 240 centimeters, rear end– thirty-five centimeters, and the front part fifty-five centimeters;

It is necessary to provide for the presence of nesting compartments inside, where a queen cell for the rabbit will subsequently be inserted or a small house will be placed;

A partition with a hole for the passage of rabbits is placed between the nesting compartment and the feeding compartment;

  • The roof is made on hinges so that it can be raised if necessary;
  • In the nesting compartment, the door must be made solid, made of wood, and
  • in the aft compartment the doors are made of metal mesh with small cells;
  • the floor must be laid with slats, with a gap of one and a half centimeters;
  • in the nesting compartment the wooden floor must be solid;
  • you need to install a tray under the cage;
  • after making a cage for breeding rabbits, you need to equip it from the inside: feeders for grain are made, shelves and mangers are installed;

If rabbits are kept outdoors, the cages should be installed on bars so that they rise above the ground by about seventy centimeters. This should protect the rabbits from rodents and other animals.


This is the step-by-step instructions for creating a cage for rabbits with your own hands. Through simple materials and with a little effort you can create your own rabbit farm and run a fairly successful farm.

There are special rules that should be taken into account when building a rabbitry, regardless of its size.

1. The size of the cage must be just such that the rabbits can move freely and do not interfere with each other to eat, sleep and especially play. If there is not enough space in the cage, the rabbits will begin to be lazy, and this will have a very negative impact on them. Perhaps such individuals will have no offspring at all.

2. For three to four rabbits, it is necessary to allocate a separate space. At the same time, it should be quite spacious. If a person decides to start breeding rabbits, he needs to keep the little rabbits with their mothers because they feed them.

3. One of the cages should always remain free, since not all rabbits reach required size and weight. In order to fatten them to the required size, they are simply placed and fattened separately, and this naturally requires a separate cage.

DIY rabbit cage video collection

https://youtu.be/addXcSFhn8g

Rabbits grow quickly and produce offspring, besides, their meat and skin are very are valued consumers.

If we add to this unpretentiousness animals, then it becomes clear: their breeding in household may be enough profitable business.

But you can’t place lop-eared pets on the street - they’ll run away and you’ll have to make some houses.

And to create for rabbits optimal conditions For development, cells must be comfortable and adaptable to different situations.

Types of cells

Eat some types of rabbit cells. They differ in design and purpose.

Currently, the industry produces cells of all types; many options can be made with your own hands from improvised means.

  1. Single cell cage- an ordinary box with doors in which one rabbit is placed, or a large compartment where young animals are placed for walking.
  2. Two-section cages separated by a V-shaped mesh feeder, you can keep two adult rabbits in them and open a hole between the compartments if mating is necessary.
  3. Three-section cells designed for three adult individuals: a male lives in the middle, a female at the edges, and a system of closing doors between the cells. You need to let the rabbit go to the rabbit - they opened it, they enjoyed life - they closed it, and the animals are always together.
  4. IN cages similar to the Klenov-Chegodaeva state farm contain two adults. This is a version of a two-section cage for keeping rabbits outside. Length – 240 cm, width – 65. The walls of the maternity ward and the back of the nursery have a height of 45 cm, the front – 65. To clean the cage and put feeders and drinkers in it, the roof of the nursery is raised.
  5. Cells of the Mikhailov mini-farm design equipped with automatic feeders and drinkers, as well as a semi-automatic waste collection system. Such cages need to be cleaned no more than once a week. But their design is too complex for homemade. It's easier to buy a ready-made option.
  6. Zolotukhin cell project- This is a space-saving, easy-to-clean and very pet-friendly option. Unlike most models with bars that are inconvenient for animals to move around, it has a slightly sloping wooden floor, and the grid is placed only at the back wall. The cage is washed with water and all waste flows through the grate. To save space, Zolotukhin proposed placing cages one above the other in several tiers, with feeders and drinkers located on one door common to the vertical. Back wall slightly tilted so that when cleaning, waste does not flow onto the rabbits from the lower tiers.
  7. IN Maklyak-6 system It is proposed to make two-section cages, place floors according to the Zolotukhin method, but between the departments, so that waste does not reach the rabbits from the lower floors, pyramidal outlets are used, which taper to the mesh of the lower box. The floors are inserted into special grooves and can be easily removed if dismantling is necessary. The doors are double-leaf, located on the front wall; feeders and drinking bowls are attached to them.

For a review of the mini-farm for rabbits Maklyak-6, see in the video:

Not always needed for rabbits solid dwellings:

  • If rabbits are kept in room, then it is not necessary to make the walls out of wood, because the cage is already protected from bad weather conditions, you can make it entirely from wire;
  • Decorative Rabbits in the house can be kept in a comfortable rodent cage purchased at a pet store, the main thing is that it is spacious enough. Ferplast cells have proven themselves well;
  • Californian Rabbits are smaller in size; for them you can choose a cage with an area of ​​0.5 m².


If you want to make a cage on one's own, then you can take any option as a basis.
Required elements rabbitry designs:
  • supports for walls made of wood or metal;
  • side walls made of plywood, wood or mesh ( last option only suitable for keeping cages indoors);
  • front wall (made of mesh or slats) with door;
  • canopy or roof, which will protect rabbits from unpleasant weather conditions, with a small slope;
  • And feeders.

Note! According to veterinary standards, one rabbit requires space 0.72 m², but for giant breeds this may not be enough and larger premises should be provided.

Materials and tools

To make a rabbit cage you will be needed the following tools:

  • hammer;
  • scissors for metal;
  • screwdrivers or screwdriver;
  • Bulgarian;
  • square, roulette and level;
  • saw or jigsaw;
  • pen or pencil for marking;

Can use materials remaining after repair and construction work, or purchase new ones. You will need:

  • corner, profile or wooden beam - for the frame;
  • galvanized or sheet iron, slate - for walls;
  • roofing elements: sheets of slate, or iron, tiles. IN economical option you can cover the cage with linoleum;
  • net with cells 15 mm for the floor and front wall;
  • mesh with cells 35–40 mm for the feeder;
  • sheets galvanized sheet for making an external feeder;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • loops.

Drawing up a drawing

Before you start cutting materials, you should work on drawing with dimensions.

In the picture it is necessary to provide places where sections, feeders, drinkers and doors will be installed.

Square, required for one female rabbit with offspring, - 1.2 x 0.65 m. Optimal height the front wall is at least 0.75 m, the rear wall is at least 0.5 m.

Costs take account following:

  • Outdoor cages for rabbits should lift up above the ground by 0.8 meters. This will be a reliable barrier for rats and snakes and will make cleaning the cage easier;
  • To make efficient use of space, it is better to place cells in several tiers;
  • Rabbits don't like drafts, therefore, outdoor cages must be made with solid back and side walls;
  • In cages where female rabbits with rabbits will be kept, it is necessary to provide nest in the side part there is a separate small darkened completely enclosed room, which will replace the hole, the size 0.65 x 0.55 m, with closing doors. IN street cages on winter time it is necessary insulate;
  • The nest must have manhole in the light part, raised 0.1 m above the floor, this will prevent the rabbits from falling out;
  • External It is better to make the door covering the light compartment mesh and attach a feeder and drinking bowl to it;
  • Can be equipped walking area, making a door behind the light compartment leading to a fenced area of ​​the yard.

Assembly order

When all necessary for the manufacture of the cage is available, you can start to the assembly of the structure:

  • First of all we do the front and back frames, after which we combine them together, securing the ceiling and floor lintels;
  • Before fixing the frames, you need to use a level and square to make sure that all corners;
  • Then we install the frames for doors and feeders;
  • The next stage is installation floor, which is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws;
  • Installing rear and side walls;
  • Strengthening external wooden walls metal sheet or mesh;
  • We assemble the nesting compartment from wood and install it in the cage;
  • Install roof tiers;
  • First, the cells of the lower tiers, then the second and third;
  • When all the main compartments are assembled, you need to attach the doors, feeders and drinking bowls.

Important! Regardless of what material you use for the cage - new or previously used, make sure that there are no nicks or other dangers for rabbits.

Basic rules for caring for rabbits

So that your pets are healthy and happy, it is necessary observe the following rules:

  • Rabbit cages should be sufficient spacious, otherwise the animals will begin to get fat, which can lead to a decrease in offspring and even a complete refusal to mate;
  • Rabbits more willingly mate if you transfer the female to the rabbit, and not vice versa;
  • It is best to carry out mating in such a way that rabbits are not born during periods extreme temperatures (too cold or hot);
  • Pretty rabbits smart Animals don't like iron or plastic. If they start gnaw cage, which means they need something lacks: feed, wood for grinding teeth or mineral salts. Please note what is missing from this list in cells.

The cage needs to be periodically disinfect. Processing is required in the following cases:

  • before transfer rabbits;
  • before births;
  • when diseases.

For disinfection, special veterinary drugs:

  • Virosan(100 ml);
  • Creolin phenolic-free coal tar;
  • PVP iodine spray;
  • Ecocide S(Ecocid S);
  • Bleaching powder in the form of a 10% solution;
  • Ash liquor(add 1/3 of wood ash to water and boil for 20–30 minutes).

Before disinfection rabbits removed from the cage. All surfaces are carefully are cleared using water and a scraper, then are being processed disinfectant.

Attention! When working with disinfectants, precautions must be taken. After finishing the treatment, the room must be ventilated and hands washed with soap.

Another way is disinfection using blowtorch. In this case, fire is treated wooden surfaces until they turn brown. Influenced high temperature kills all microbes. Removable metal, plastic and ceramic parts are best boil.

For step-by-step construction of a rabbit cage with dimensions, see the following video: