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» A comfortable cage for rabbits, made by yourself. DIY rabbitry: from drawings to implementation How to make the best cages for a rabbit

A comfortable cage for rabbits, made by yourself. DIY rabbitry: from drawings to implementation How to make the best cages for a rabbit

Rabbits are quite unpretentious in care. They are versatile in matters of nutrition and do not require special conditions. But, before you start breeding such animals, you should remember that the animals reproduce extremely quickly. Therefore, the ability to make cages for rabbits with your own hands will be very useful for the owner of a rabbit farm.

Types of cages for rabbits

On the Internet you can find a large number of options on how to build a cage for rabbits yourself. But, before using one of them, you should remember that such designs involve division into several types. A standard rabbit farm should be equipped with at least three of them:

  • rabbitries for individual housing of males;
  • separate enclosures with a uterine compartment for a rabbit and newborn babies;
  • common spacious houses for keeping young animals until they reach puberty.

Also, such structures are divided among themselves based on the materials used. constructive solutions. So, if there is space, they will be equipped with an attached walking area. If there is no free space, the cells are made two-tiered. Differ from each other different variants also the design of the roof, floor, materials used.

For males

When making cages for males with your own hands, you should take into account that as the heat approaches, they become quite aggressive. During this period, when the rabbits are kept together, fights often occur for territory and food. Therefore, to suppress aggressive manifestations, adult individuals are placed in individual cages. This measure will also allow better control of the process of reproduction of living creatures.

But when building an individual enclosure, you need to make sure that it is spacious enough. The animal needs constant activity to maintain its shape. If there is no room for it, the rabbit will become fat, which will affect the functioning of the genital organs and reproductive function in general. The sizes of cages for rabbits in this category suggest the following values:

  • length – approximately 120 cm;
  • width – varies between 70–75 cm;
  • height – about 60 cm.

When calculating sizes for large breed rabbits, all values ​​are doubled.

For a female rabbit with offspring

A female rabbit with young animals has completely different physiological needs. Therefore, the house for her requires a different design. It includes two sections:

  1. Uterine compartment. Here the female gives birth to babies, warms them and feeds them. The mother liquor is made from solid material, then covering all the cracks and holes with insulation. A thick layer of litter is placed on the bottom. The minimum dimensions of the queen cell are 40x40 cm. If necessary, such a compartment is supplemented with a separate door.
  2. Aft compartment. Suitable for installing a drinking bowl and containers under the feeder. It is also made spacious so that the rabbit can move around to her heart's content. The aft compartment can be supplemented with mesh walls.

The compartments are connected to each other by a small passage. It is placed at least 10 cm above the floor surface. This moment is a precaution against newborn babies falling out into the cold feed compartment.

For young animals

Grown-up rabbits are moved to a house for group housing. In this case, making a rabbit cage with your own hands is also easy. The main thing is to accurately calculate its dimensions.

  • length – 250–300 cm;
  • width – 100–120 cm;
  • height – 30–45 cm.

If necessary, the group housing method is also implemented in the cage options listed above. But the number of animals in this case is calculated taking into account its area.

Two-tier structures

The solution to the lack of free space on rabbit farm there is a two-tier house for rabbits. This design practically consists of two ordinary cells installed one on top of the other. However, it differs in certain features, including:

  1. The presence of a common V-shaped canopy dividing each floor into compartments.
  2. The presence of a pallet between the floor of the second tier and the ceiling of the first. To place it, the cells are connected with a small gap, and not end-to-end.
  3. Placement of special containers under the floor for feces.
  4. Each tier is supposed to have two compartments.

Make a two-story cage for rabbits with your own hands in accordance with step-by-step instructions:

  1. Four identical rectangles are made from iron corners or thick timber.
  2. The first rectangle is sheathed with a fine-grain mesh and placed on legs whose height is at least 30 cm. For this purpose, long wooden blocks.
  3. Next, two frames are installed on the bars with a distance of 50 cm from each other. One of them serves as a roof for the first tier, so it is covered with wooden boards.
  4. At a height of 10 cm from the second rectangle, a third one is mounted. It is also covered with mesh.
  5. The last rectangle is again attached on top of the floor in increments of 50 cm. It is covered with a board. If the rabbitry is planned to be placed outside, an additional layer of roofing material is laid on top.
  6. The side walls are covered with boards, plywood or mesh.
  7. For the left niche between the first and second floors, a box is made and installed to collect rabbit manure.
  8. A suitable size container for feces is selected under the bottom of the first tier and also placed under the finished structure.

The size of the enclosure can vary significantly. But the minimum length is 2.4 m. The width is at least 1.5 m. The height of the structure ranges from 1.8 to 2.2 m.

In general, a standard cage of this type can accommodate 4 animals. If necessary, a third floor is installed above the second floor, which significantly expands the capacity of the structure.

Walking

If the owner of rabbits has enough space on the site, it is recommended to make cages with walking. In this plan, two combined departments are also being assembled. The front is the standard option mentioned above. The only difference is a special passage made in the back wall and connecting the first section with a large closed enclosure.

This design is advantageous from the point of view that the animal has more space for activity. In addition, he receives Fresh air And sunlight. All this helps to increase the productivity of the rodent and improve the quality of its coat.

The paddock is made approximately as follows:

  1. They make a hole in the back blank wall of the main compartment.
  2. Behind the main house, two more bars are dug in at the required distance.
  3. Using slats, they construct the frame of the enclosure, connecting them with new dug-in bars and the rear supports of the main compartment.
  4. A mesh is installed on the slats.

It is worth noting that if the enclosure is used only for warm time years, you don’t have to do the legs. It will be installed on the ground. This option is also good because fresh vegetation appears through the floor cells, which the living creatures eat with pleasure.

Rabbit cage with walk

The minimum dimensions for a rabbitry with a walking enclosure are 200x100x60 cm. They can be increased upon request. The main thing is that there is enough space inside for active walks of animals.

Location of rabbit cages

In addition to how to make a rabbit hutch, you should also consider where to install it. There are also several recommendations in this regard.

Specific location rabbit houses selected taking into account the weather conditions of the area. If the climate is warm and does not expect severe frosts in winter, enclosures are installed outside. Moreover, this type of livestock maintenance is carried out year-round.

If winters are cold, then only in summer time enclosures are located outside. With the onset of cold weather, they are transferred to a warm barn.

Each option also includes a number of features. For outdoor placement:

  • the cages are installed with a dense back wall in the direction from which the wind most often blows in the region;
  • when installing, choose places where there are no drafts;
  • install houses on a certain hill where moisture does not accumulate after heavy rainfall;
  • the roof is mounted so that water does not get inside the cells during rain;
  • When placing houses in two rows, they are placed with their front parts facing each other at such a distance that a person can freely pass between them.

When moving rabbits indoors, you should adhere to the following rules:

  • Natural lighting in the barn is not enough, so it must be supplemented with electric lamps evenly installed throughout the ceiling;
  • artificial lighting in the room should be maintained for about 8-10 hours a day;
  • windows and other openings in the walls should be located above the installed cages to avoid drafts;
  • If the temperature in the barn drops very low in winter, you should consider using wood, electric or gas heating.

Important! Also, when located inside a barn, rabbit hutches are still installed on supports. This will reduce the amount of dust getting inside.

Materials and tools

Before you begin choosing a suitable material, you should develop a detailed drawing of such a project. Already-designed drawings of cages for rabbits are freely available on the Internet. Ready plan will allow you to accurately calculate the required volumes of material and not miss significant nuances in the assembly of the structure.

Preparing suitable materials, it should also be taken into account that rabbits are rodents by nature. They easily damage the components of a fragile structure. Therefore, excessive savings here can lead to the fact that within a month or two the enclosure will have to be repaired or completely changed.

  • wooden products: long beams, slats, boards;
  • plywood;
  • slate slabs;
  • fine-grained mesh;
  • nails, screws or staples to secure all elements.

There are also a number of important points that will significantly increase the life of the structure and will be useful for living creatures:

  • Many manufacturers make the roof from metal sheets. This approach is fundamentally wrong. In the summer heat, the iron gets very hot, and excessive heat worsens the rabbits’ well-being. It is better to take slate, tiles or regular boards, covered with roofing felt on top.
  • All wooden elements The inside of the enclosure should be lined with tin. Otherwise, the rabbit will sharpen its teeth on them and quickly render them unusable.
  • The mesh for the rabbitry is taken with hole sizes of 25x25 mm. Such material will be convenient for the rodent to move, but will not allow it to escape.
  • Additionally, it is recommended to lay a sheet of plywood on the floor. This coating will prevent health problems for your rodent's paws. In addition, after a certain time it is enough to simply remove it, wash it thoroughly, dry it and can be reused.

It is also not recommended to use it as a frame base. metal corners and cross members. In winter, they can freeze, which will reduce the temperature inside the rabbitry. But the advantage of such elements is their strength.

Based on the selected materials, it is selected necessary tool. The minimum set in this regard includes:

  • hacksaw;
  • construction tape;
  • hammer;
  • metal scissors;
  • sandpaper;
  • screwdriver;
  • plane;
  • pliers.

When using metal elements, you may also need a drill and welding machine.

DIY making

The specific algorithm for making a cage for rabbits is based on the drawings used by the owner. As an example, let’s look at the simplest version of a rabbitry, which requires:

  • 10 wooden blocks with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
  • 2 large sheets of plywood;
  • 3 m metal mesh;
  • self-tapping screws

The assembly of the structure takes place in the following stages:

  1. From the bars we assemble a rectangle with dimensions of 3x0.7 m. Upon completion of the assembly, we fix it to the vertical bars, which will also act as legs. Moreover, the height of the rear vertical bars is 1 m. We leave the front ones a little longer (1.2 m).
  2. We allocate part of the cage on both sides for the queen cells and lay out their floor completely with a board. Cover the remaining area of ​​the base with the prepared mesh.
  3. We mount the back wall from boards using self-tapping screws.
  4. At the required distance from the walls, we fix the vertical bars that limit the uterine compartment. We install a plywood wall with a hole made across the base across them. We mount the queen cell cover on top.
  5. We place a hay feeder in the center of the rabbitry. We make it from two frames connected in the shape of the letter “V”. We install steel wire vertically on the frames with wide spacing.
  6. Next to the hay feeder we install a standard feeder and drinker that is suitable in size and design. We fix them permanently.
  7. We line the sides of the cage with plywood.
  8. At the front we make frames for future doors. We make them from boards, cover them with mesh and fix them on hinges.
  9. We install the roof on top. Ideal material slate acts for her. The roof is mounted on a slope with a tight fit to the vertical bars. At the same time, it protrudes 10 cm beyond the side and rear walls, and 5 cm beyond the front wall. In the center we make a hole for laying hay and feed. We close it with a door made separately.

Attention! At the end of the work, use pliers to bend all protruding parts of the mesh, sandpaper sand protruding wooden elements and sharp corners.

A carefully designed and manufactured rabbit cage will provide the animal with comfortable living conditions and help maintain its health. In addition, the thoughtful design greatly simplifies the process of cleaning up after rodents. But before making it, you should carefully study the main points of such work.

If for large animals it is enough to build a regular barn, then for breeding rabbits you need to take care special conditions. The best solution In terms of price-quality ratio, it will be possible to make an animal house with your own hands. It's cheap and also allows you to take everything into account peculiarities breeding and location. In this article we will look at what material needs to be used for this purpose, what is worth taking into account, and we will analyze the drawings.

Selection of necessary materials

The material is selected based on the type of cell. Any structure has a frame, floor, walls, door and ceiling. For building rabbit hutches houses Metal mesh and wood are most often used. The cell of this mesh should have a diameter of no more than 2 by 2 cm and no less than 16 by 47 mm (this depends on the age and weight of the animal).

The materials for building the cage are:

  • plywood sheets;
  • bars;
  • slate;
  • nails and screws;
  • slats;
  • mesh with cells;
  • for door bolts and curtains;
  • drinking bowls and feeders.

The wood is sanded and sanded, and the ends of the mesh are securely fastened. Sharp edges must be removed to prevent injury to animals, and protruding wooden parts are covered with tin. Rabbits love it very much gnaw wood - this is how they grind their teeth. To do this, you need to put twigs in their feeder. The roof and walls are made of plywood and mesh, and the main frame will be wooden blocks. Their size will depend on the location of the structure: if the cage will be placed on the street, then the legs of the frame should be from 80 cm, and when installed indoors - 35-40 cm.

If the structure will stand in an open space, then it is necessary to roofing materials. Don't do it metal roof (for example, from a metal profile), because it will heat up in hot weather, which can lead to heat stroke in animals.

Standard design parameters

First of all, you need to decide on the size of the rabbit cage according to the drawings. Design drawings can be found on the Internet or made yourself. 2-seater designs with 2 separate sections are common. There are also other types: single-section, 3-section, group for young rabbits, for the mother house, author's designs from various farmers.

Standard dimensions of the structure: height - from 40 to 50 cm, length - from 120 to 140 cm and width - from 70 to 80 cm.

For young individuals, a length of about 90 cm is enough, and other parameters are similar to the previous design. For one adult rabbit, 0.7 square meters is allocated. m of area, and for young individuals - 0.2 sq. m.

Types of do-it-yourself houses

The types of cages for rabbits are quite varied:

  • for adults;
  • for young animals;
  • for a rabbit with babies;
  • for giants;
  • solid wire;
  • from farmer Zolotukhin;
  • from farmer Tsvetkov;
  • Rabbitax.

Rabbits with their offspring are kept together, and separate housing is built for older individuals.

For adults

For medium-sized adults, housing can be built about 70 cm wide, 50 to 70 cm high and 140 cm long using a block structure. Each block is divided by a grid into 2 sections. The partition is removed during the mating period, which allows 2 sections to be combined into 1.

It’s not that difficult to build a standard 2-story house for adult rabbits. The main thing is to draw up the drawings correctly. You can build a two-tier or three-tier cage. It will be more difficult, but it will allow save space in the territory.

Each cage must provide a separate place for the animal to sleep, walk and eat. The cage is divided by a plywood partition. The sleeping compartment must have a continuous wooden door, and the place for walking and eating is mesh. The resting place should be small. Ideal sizes It is considered 30 by 60 by 50 cm.

Separate for young animals

Rabbits that have been weaned from their mother are kept in groups. The cage is made to the minimum dimensions: total area the structure is 300 by 100 cm, the ceiling height is 50−60 cm. It is better to make the floor from thin wooden slats and also cover them metal mesh(thickness 1.5 mm, cell diameter 15 by 40 mm). You can make the entire floor mesh, but additionally equip a warm separate room, which in winter period insulated with straw and hay.

There are farmers who do not make a separate house for the young animals, but simply house them in cages intended for adults. But at the same time, you need to calculate how many animals can be placed in one cage in order to provide them comfortable accommodation.

For a female rabbit with offspring

In an open area, fenced only with a net, the female will be anxious and nervous. And this will have a bad effect on the health of the offspring. In a house for a female rabbit with offspring, a mandatory condition is the presence of a closed and warm place for the nest, a space for walking with a front mesh wall.

Let's consider the simplest and most functional version of a house for a female rabbit with offspring.

The frame is made from the bars. The back wall and two side walls are made of plywood. The cage is divided into 2 sections: for walking (large) and for nesting (small). Separate doors are made for each section (from mesh and solid wood). The walls, ceiling and floor should be made according to the sandwich principle (double). Straw or foam is laid between them. The roof is covered with slate.

For giant individuals

Designs for these individuals must be much larger than usual. Adult rabbits can grow up to 60 cm in length and reach 7.5 kg.

Minimum house sizes for one individual:

  • height from 55 cm;
  • width - 75 cm;
  • length - 0.9−1.5 m.

If possible, it is better to increase housing parameters.

For young individuals, a group cage is built, the height of which is 40-50 cm, and the area is about 1.2 square meters. m. They reinforce the floor quite well (they are made of thicker galvanized mesh), since the weight of the animal is rather large. To prevent the floor of the house from sagging, they make sheathing from timber at a distance of three to four centimeters from each other.

Some rabbit breeders put a solid wooden floor in their cages, and plastic trays are installed underneath it. It is necessary to clean such a cage at least twice a day.

All-wire housing

This cage is the most budget-friendly way to make housing for rabbits. It can be installed outdoors and indoors. Such cages are durable and lightweight, take up little space, and are easy to clean and maintain. To make such housing, you will need 2 types of mesh: a large one for the ceiling and walls (2.5 by 5 cm in diameter), and a smaller one for the floor (1.5 by 5 cm in diameter). The frame of the house is made of timber (legs length 50-70 cm). IN winter time The cage is placed in a warm barn, and in the summer - on the street.

From farmer Zolotukhin

Rabbit breeder Zolotukhin has developed a simple, original and inexpensive design for rabbits. In such houses there is no need to clean every day; animals feel comfortable in them and are less susceptible to disease.

Zolotukhin's cell is a 3-story building, with a sloping plywood or slate floor. The mesh on the floor is laid only a short distance from the back wall and without a tray. The next tier is shifted compared to the first by the width of the grid. The third one is located in the same way. The front wall is common to all floors forming a slope. The compartments are equipped with tilting feeders.

For construction you will need: metal mesh, wood, tin, straight sheet slate or plywood, polycarbonate. A wooden frame, doors and partitions are made in advance. The mesh is used to make the cage door and the back of the floor, which is made of plywood or slate, and the back wall is made of polycarbonate. The protruding parts inside the cage are covered with tin.

  • height is 150 cm;
  • depth 70−80 cm;
  • width 200 cm;
  • the slope of the floor is 6−8 cm;
  • door 40 by 40 cm;
  • the mesh size in front of the back wall is from 15 to 20 cm.

The floors are divided into 2 sections by a partition, and a place is left between them for a hay barn.

From rabbit breeder Tsvetkov

Farmer Tsvetkov presented the idea of ​​a 2-story mini-farm for rabbits. It consists of 4 separate sections. Features of these cages: 2 gravity feeders, 2 hanging queen cells, unusual ventilation and manure removal systems.

The frame is made of coniferous timber and painted with white paint. The sennik is made of moisture-resistant plywood, 8 mm thick. The inside is lined with metal mesh, and it also serves as a door in each section.

Wooden parts need to be sheathed sheet metal, cover the cone for collecting manure with slate mastic. Ruberoid or slate is suitable for the roof. The water in the drinking bowls will be heated by a boiler.

Rabbitax Dormitory

Such cells can be of various modifications and designs. The simplest of them are 2-section. There are ecological models that are based on the principle of changing air flows.

There are real farms for Rabbits rabbits, where more than 25 animals live and breed together. Many types of such cells are sold. But you can also build them yourself. The basis is the drawings of the rabbit breeder Mikhailov.

Sometimes a drywall profile is used to build cages. This profile is used to either make a frame or use it as a feeder.

To summarize, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot of money on building a house for rabbits. After all, the construction is not very complicated. Every craftsman can create comfortable living conditions for animals.

Attention, TODAY only!

Breeding rabbits when properly managed can bring good dividends.

Animal cages must be made of high quality materials. The normal functioning of the animal depends on compliance with these requirements.

The main advantage of rabbits is their unpretentiousness. They have a fairly high resistance to various diseases. A properly constructed home creates a comfortable existence for the animal.

Nursery construction

The correct drawings of cages for rabbits allow you to build a good home for the whole family.

The animal nursery consists of:

  • frame;
  • ceiling;
  • side walls;
  • central door;
  • feeders.

How to make cages for rabbits with your own hands?

If the finished nursery is located on the street, then the height of the support should be 110 cm. High housing for rabbits helps protect animals from various predators.

The side walls are made of dense plywood or fine mesh. For feeding rabbits, it is recommended to use a fine mesh or thin slats.

The presence of holes allows you to get rid of food debris, thereby preventing their rapid spoilage.

The roof for the cages must be made of durable, waterproof material. Suitable for this: slate, roofing felt; polycarbonate

Materials for the production of housing should not contain sharp edges or chips.

Types of cells

Nursery designs have some differences among themselves.

Mainly:

  • cells with queen cell;
  • nursery using the technology of I. N. Mikhailov and N. I. Zolotukhin;
  • a dwelling with an enclosure for walking animals.

The first version of the cage is a tall structure with two separate sections. One of them is used for feeding, and the other for the nest.

They are separated between a thick sheet of plywood. For normal movement of the animal, a manhole is provided.

An exit for animals is made in the side wall. The entire perimeter of the cage is fenced with a mesh. This helps prevent escape from the nursery area.

The sizes of cages for rabbits are calculated based on their number.

Note!

For intensive breeding of animals, the technique of combining neighboring nurseries is used. To do this, a corridor is made along the back of the cage with additional doors for the male to move around.

Industrial cell designs using Mikhailov technology

They are miniature farms. There is a nest for small rabbits, a place for feeding adult animals, and additional ventilation. An additional compartment for waste disposal is made along the lower border.

How to make a similar cage for rabbits? To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the design drawings. The exact dimensions of the walls and ceiling are shown in detail here.

Nurseries using the Zolotukhin technique

Nurseries using the Zolotukhin technique are multi-storey departments that can accommodate several families. The design of the rabbit cage provides for additional compartments for feeding and easy cleaning of waste.

The main advantage of this method is to create conditions as close to natural as possible. Little rabbits acquire immunity to various viral diseases. The female independently arranges a warm nest from her down and dry straw.

Stages of cell creation

Do simple cell quite simple for animals.

Note!

To do this, you must follow a strict sequence of actions:

  • The frame of the future cage is assembled from the beams. The thickness should be 10 cm in diameter;
  • a blank wall is installed at the back of the nursery;
  • The sides of the cage are covered with mesh.

For this it is necessary to use small fractions.

  • Experienced experts recommend upholstering side walls small slats. This will protect the animal from overheating in the summer and freezing in the winter;
  • The bottom of the nursery is made of a durable sheet of plywood;
  • Feeders and additional doors are installed outside the cage. This allows you to easily remove bedding and debris from the animal.

The photo of the rabbit cage shows step by step instructions, which will facilitate the process of constructing a nursery.

Photos of do-it-yourself rabbit cages

Today, rabbits are bred in almost every corner of the world. If you also decide to do this profitable business, then we recommend starting with the organization optimal conditions keeping animals, namely from rabbit cages.

A rabbitry and all the equipment necessary for it (feeders and drinkers) can be purchased or built independently. In this article we will talk about what kind of housing these animals should have, and what materials will be needed to make cages for rabbits with your own hands.

Necessary materials

First of all, you should decide on the size of future cells. The most common option is a double design, which has two separate sections.

There are other types of housing:

  • single-section;
  • group (for young animals);
  • with three sections;
  • with mother liquor.

Creating any structure for keeping rabbits involves step by step production frame, floor, walls, ceiling and door with subsequent assembly. In most cases, wood and metal mesh are used in construction. Therefore, for work you will need the following tools and materials:

The wood should first be sanded and thoroughly sanded, and the ends of the mesh should be securely fastened. All sharp edges must be removed, otherwise the animal may be injured. It makes sense to cover wooden surfaces inside the home with tin to make the enclosure more durable, since rabbits love to gnaw on everything that catches their eye. Thick wooden beams are usually used for the main frame, and the walls and ceiling are made of plywood sheets and mesh. Note that if the rabbits’ home is located outdoors, then the length of the legs of the frame should not be less than 80 cm. For cages placed indoors, 30-centimeter legs will be enough.

If the enclosure will be under open air, then it is important to pay Special attention construction of a house roof. Direct Sun rays, precipitation and drafts negatively affect the well-being and health of animals. It is not recommended to make a roof out of metal - it gets very hot in the sun, which can lead to heatstroke in a rabbit. It is better to cover the top of the structure with slate.

Types of cells and their sizes

On a farm to maintain a population of rabbits, various cages are required, intended for certain categories of animals:

  • adults;
  • young animals;
  • representatives of giant breeds;
  • females with offspring.

When planning the construction of a home for animals, as well as their resettlement, we start from the following figures: 0.7 m 2 of space is usually allocated for an adult rabbit, and 0.25 m 2 for young animals per individual.

For adults

Optimal cages for medium-sized rabbits should have a depth of 55-75 cm, a height of 45-60 cm and a length of at least 100 cm. Dimensions standard version: 120×75×45 cm (DHA). When keeping adult animals, it is advisable to use block structures divided into two compartments using a mesh. If mating is necessary, the partition is removed, combining the sections together.

In order to save space, cells are often arranged in blocks of 2-3 tiers.

Each room should have a designated area for sleeping, eating and walking. A small place for rest is required: approximately 30x60x50 cm. To zone the space, plywood partitions with holes located at a height of about 15 cm from the floor are usually used.

For young animals

Rabbits are separated from their mother at the age of 6-7 weeks and kept together in groups of 10-20 animals. When designing a home, the following dimensions are adhered to: 300 × 100 × 50 cm. The floor can be made either solid, mesh or slatted. The first option is safer from the point of view of the health of rabbits, because some individuals are susceptible to the development of pododermatitis, and the coating of slats or mesh contributes to the occurrence of the disease. However, houses with such a bottom are easier to keep clean, as they become dirty more slowly.

In winter, the floor is insulated with a bedding of straw and hay.

In some farms, special cages for young animals are not provided, and cubs weaned from their mother are immediately placed in housing for adult animals. With this option, it is necessary to calculate how many heads can be placed in one room to make the animals comfortable.

For giant rabbits

The giants' owners will need significantly more building materials, after all adults can reach 70 cm in length and weigh more than 10 kg. Optimal sizes cages for rabbits of giant varieties: height not less than 65 cm, length - 150 cm, depth - 75 cm. If possible, it is better to increase the above parameters.

Young animals can be kept in group cages with an area of ​​at least 1.2 m2. When constructing the structure, you should take into account the considerable weight of the giants and pay special attention to strengthening the floor, for example, making it from thicker galvanized mesh. To prevent sagging, a sheathing is made of bars under the floor, which are placed at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Experienced rabbit breeders recommend keeping giants in dwellings with a solid floor. However, cleaning in such rooms will have to be done much more often.

For a female with cubs

Some farmers believe that a special queen cell for a female with offspring is necessary exclusively in the cold season, while in the summer a regular cage is sufficient. However, this opinion is wrong. In an open room, partitioned only with a mesh, the female rabbit feels unprotected, which can negatively affect the feeding process and the health of her offspring. Therefore, it is imperative to equip your home with a closed, insulated place for the nest, and also leave enough space for walking.

The frame is made of strong beams, the back and side walls are made of plywood. The space is immediately divided into two parts - a large one intended for walking and a small one for a nest. Each of them is closed with a separate door: mesh (large compartment) or solid wood (nesting part). All walls, floors and ceilings must be double, with a layer of foam or straw for additional heat and sound insulation. The roof is made of slate.

You can learn more about the design and construction of a queen cell from the article on our website.

The most common design options

There are many various options, from which each farmer chooses the most suitable one depending on available resources, free space and other parameters. The following designs are very popular among breeders:

  • solid wire;
  • Mikhailova;
  • Zolotukhina;
  • Tsvetkova.

Solid wire

This is the most a budget option home that can be placed in any convenient location. Such cages are lightweight and durable, they take up little space and are easy to care for on a daily basis.

For production you need two types of galvanized mesh with cells different sizes. The coarse mesh (2.5-5x5 cm) is attached to the walls and ceiling, and the fine mesh (1.5-2.5 cm) is attached to the floor. The frame is made of durable timber, with legs 50-70 cm high. In the warm season, the structure is installed outside (under a canopy); in cold weather, it is brought into an insulated shed.

You can see step-by-step instructions on how to quickly make a simple all-wire dwelling for rabbits in the following story:

Mikhailova

A distinctive feature of the design, made according to Mikhailov’s drawings, is the heating of the queen cell and drinkers, and the presence of a container for collecting waste. Cells of this type can be one- or two-level. House dimensions: width 240 cm, height 70 or 210 cm (depending on number of floors). The distance from the ground to the structure is 140 cm - this space is necessary to place a special inclined chute and waste collector.

An additional queen cell (size 35×40 cm) is sometimes attached to the back wall, and feeders (30×15 cm) are attached to the side walls.

The floor is made of slats, which are laid at small intervals. This allows waste to flow down the gutters into a special container. The walls are made of wood, the doors are made of mesh. For better air flow, the home is equipped ventilation pipe, covered with a visor.

Thanks to the waste collection system, Mikhailov’s design ensures constant cleanliness in the cages, which greatly facilitates the work of farmers.

Automatic heating technologies are most often used when breeding ornamental breeds, since the cost of such equipment for the house and its maintenance is too high.

Zolotukhina

N.I. Zolotukhin is known in rabbit breeding circles as the creator of a simple and inexpensive design for placing eared ears. Original scheme The home allows you to clean less often, and the animals feel more comfortable.

Such houses are multi-story buildings with a sloping plywood ceiling. The floor is made of mesh, which is laid in a thin strip against the back wall. The second tier is shifted relative to the lower one by the width of the mesh strip. The third floor is located similarly. The front wall, common to all three tiers, is attached at an angle.

In the process of creating such a home, you need to follow step-by-step instructions. First of all, you should purchase wooden beams and boards, slate sheets, metal mesh, polycarbonate and metal sheets. The frame, partitions and doors of the queen cell are constructed from wood. The mesh is used for doors and the back of the floor. The rest of the bottom is made of slate. The back wall is made of polycarbonate. The wooden surfaces inside are sheathed with tin.

Standard dimensions of a cage for rabbits according to Zolotukhin’s drawings:

You can learn about the advantages of a home of this design from the following video:

Tsvetkova

Experienced rabbit breeder A. A. Tsvetkov proposed a new original idea cells, the main valuable features of which are:

  • gravity feeders;
  • mounted queen cells;
  • forced ventilation;
  • feces removal system.

The frame is constructed from coniferous timber, which is usually painted with white paint. The sennik is made of moisture-resistant plywood, at least 8 mm thick, and the inside is lined with metal mesh. All wooden parts sheathed with sheet metal, the cone-shaped compartment for drainage and waste collection is covered with slate mastic. The roof is covered with slate or roofing felt.

To heat water in the cold season, the house is equipped with a special boiler.

General manufacturing rules

When creating a rabbit cage with your own hands, you must follow the following rules:

  • the frame is made of wooden beams with a thickness of at least 5x5 cm, the walls and partitions are made of durable sheet plywood;
  • All wooden surfaces those inside should be covered with tin;
  • It is best to use slate to cover the roof;
  • when processing parts, do not use antiseptics, varnishes and impregnations with a strong odor;
  • To construct a floor with a mesh covering, use a mesh with cells measuring no more than 2.5x2.5 cm.
Experienced rabbit breeders often cover part of the mesh floor with a sheet of plywood, which helps the animals avoid pododermatitis.

Depending on the individual needs of the animals, the design of the building may vary. For example, a female with offspring needs a queen cell and a nesting compartment, and when keeping young animals in groups, one cannot do without insulated nesting rooms and covered spacious enclosures for walking.

After completion of construction work, each dwelling must be properly equipped: install a feeder and drinking bowl, prepare a hay barn and bunker device to provide the animals with the most favorable conditions.

Oklahoma farmer Carl Burns developed an unusual variety of multi-colored corn called Rainbow Corn. Grains on each cob - different colors and shades: brown, pink, purple, blue, green, etc. This result was achieved through many years of selection of the most colored ordinary varieties and their crossing.

In Australia, scientists have begun experiments in cloning several varieties of grapes grown in cold regions. Climate warming, which is predicted for the next 50 years, will lead to their disappearance. Australian varieties have excellent characteristics for winemaking and are not susceptible to diseases common in Europe and America.

“Frost-resistant” varieties of garden strawberries (more often simply “strawberries”) need shelter just as much as ordinary varieties (especially in those regions where there are snowless winters or frosts alternating with thaws). All strawberries have superficial roots. This means that without shelter they freeze to death. Sellers’ assurances that strawberries are “frost-resistant,” “winter-hardy,” “tolerates frosts down to −35 ℃,” etc. are deception. Gardeners should remember that root system No one has ever managed to change the strawberries.

It is believed that some vegetables and fruits (cucumbers, stem celery, all varieties of cabbage, peppers, apples) have “negative calorie content,” that is, more calories are consumed during digestion than they contain. In fact, only 10-20% of the calories received from food are consumed in the digestive process.

Humus is rotted manure or bird droppings. It is prepared like this: the manure is piled up in a heap or pile, layered with sawdust, peat and garden soil. The pile is covered with film to stabilize temperature and humidity (this is necessary to increase the activity of microorganisms). The fertilizer “ripens” within 2-5 years - depending on external conditions and the composition of the feedstock. The output is a loose, homogeneous mass with a pleasant smell of fresh earth.

New American developers– Tertill robot, weeding in the garden. The device was invented under the leadership of John Downes (creator of the robot vacuum cleaner) and works in any weather conditions autonomously, moving around uneven surface on wheels. At the same time, it cuts off all plants below 3 cm with the built-in trimmer.

You need to collect medicinal flowers and inflorescences at the very beginning of the flowering period, when the contents useful substances they are as high as possible. Flowers are supposed to be picked by hand, tearing off the rough stalks. Dry the collected flowers and herbs, scattered in a thin layer, in a cool room at natural temperature without access to direct sunlight.

No natural protection Tomatoes do not suffer from late blight. If late blight attacks, any tomatoes (and potatoes too) die, no matter what is said in the description of the varieties (“variety resistant to late blight” is just a marketing ploy).