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It is often necessary to move across a ditch; this requires laying a pipe in the ditch (making drainage) and performing certain operations on backfilling and installation road surface, which will be discussed in this article. You can often make a drive through a ditch to a plot of land at your dacha with your own hands without using pipes, we will also tell you about this.
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The very first thing we will do is consider the pipe options and choose the appropriate one. Taking into account the load on crossing the ditch, we will choose the optimal depth of the pipe, the method of constructing the base for the pipe and methods for organizing the bedding and road, crossing the ditch on top of the pipe. Let's consider several special options and you will learn how to make a crossing over a ditch with your own hands at the dacha or with the help of the services of companies or workers in your case.
First, let's decide which pipe to use for the free flow of water in the ditch of our crossing. There are three main materials:
Let's look at each in more detail and several other options for a summer residence or country house, for example, a device for crossing a ditch without a pipe using reinforced concrete slabs or using asbestos-cement pipes, which are not often used, but for some reason you just have them stored.
Important Before purchasing a pipe, find out its characteristics, namely what load it can take, by consulting with the seller.
The main advantage over other types of pipes is ease of installation and a light weight. No special equipment is required for installation, since the pipes are light enough to be installed with your own hands.
Modern plastic pipes are strong enough to withstand the weight of passing cars, resistant to temperature changes from -60 to +95 degrees. The material is not subject to corrosion and such pipes are not expensive.
The only negative is the depth of placement. Such a pipe should be laid at least 30-40 cm deep; it will not be possible to ride on it directly with vehicles.
Such a pipe can be used for moving and not buried, but this is again not advisable. It is advisable to bury any pipe, but if there is no other way out, and the depth of the ditch is not great and the pipe will stick out a little from the surface, then reinforced concrete is the ideal option.
There is one feature on my site - a stream flowing from the collective farm fields. In order to somehow fit it into the surrounding reality, as well as to ensure a safe passage, a bridge was thrown across it. It was made from wood about 10 years ago, so it was already quite rotten and lost its former strength. It seems to look organic from the outside, but it’s already scary to cross it. And let the children in even more so! Therefore, I decided to remove the old bridge and build a new one - from metal. Detailed description I would like to bring this construction to your attention.
I immediately decided on the design of the new building - the bridge will be humpbacked, with curved metal handrails and wooden flooring. I found a suitable drawing on the Internet and modified it a little to suit existing realities. Then, along the way, some profiles were replaced by others, and the sizes varied. But overall the project turned out to be working and was implemented.
Bridge design on working drawing
The bent parts of the structure were ordered from local craftsmen. Unfortunately, they turned out to be not entirely responsible, so I had to finalize some details myself. I'll mention this later.
Brought blanks of bent bridge elements
So, we brought the parts and unloaded them. For the handrails, I selected 4 arches that were most similar in shape. It turned out to be not so simple - they were all different (thanks, “masters”!). I don’t have a workbench for such structures, so I started welding the sidewalls on a paved area.
I simply laid out the arcs and vertical posts on the surface, achieving horizontality by placing various pieces of wood and plywood under them. It turned out to be quite convenient. I checked it using a laser level, everything is straight, no “screws”.
Connection of bent handrails with vertical posts (by welding)
I welded the first side, then laid out the elements of the second side on top of it and also connected them by welding. The lower part of the bridge supports will be underground, they will not be visible, so I made these parts from a corner. I had a lot of it collecting dust in my workshop, there was nowhere to put it, and besides, it was a pity to use pipes for the “underground” parts.
I welded all sorts of metal scraps-fangs onto the legs to better hold the supports in the concrete.
“Fangs” from metal scraps are welded onto the racks that will be concreted
It's time for dismantling. In a couple of hours, the old wooden bridge, which had become unusable, was dismantled. The site for the new bridge has been cleared.
An old wooden bridge that has served its purpose
The old bridge has been destroyed, the space for installation has been cleared
In a wheelbarrow I brought the almost finished sidewalls and various profiles necessary for the design to the stream. On site I welded the gussets and the main elements of holding the flooring to the sidewalls. I welded all the voids where water could theoretically get in.
I did not spare electrodes, since the quality of welding of the holding parts determines how safe movement along the bridge will be. I didn’t clean the seams, I thought that they wouldn’t be visible anyway. And there is no need for extra work.
For rigidity, I welded buttresses on the sides. As for me, they don’t look very organic against the background of the curving sides. They are too straight, sharp, in general, not quite what I wanted. But toughness requires sacrifice. Let them remain like this.
The lower parts of the bridge supports will be in concrete, I covered them with paint - later there will be no access to them.
And then he started drilling wells. I took a drill and drilled 2 holes on both banks of the stream almost to their entire depth (about a meter).
Placed the structure supports in the holes and aligned them vertically building level. For installation rigidity, filled free place in the holes with rubble stone. Now the supports stood like a glove and did not move anywhere.
Next is pouring concrete. At first I made a liquid mixture so that the concrete would seep between the stones without any problems. The next batch was already thicker. I don’t know what grade of concrete was ultimately used, but I’m sure that a bridge built on such a solution will stand for many years and not move.
The bridge is installed, its supports are concreted in the holes
First, I welded internal arcs onto the sidewalls.
The internal arcs are welded to vertical posts sidewalls of the bridge
Between them, in accordance with the plan, baluster posts should be located. They had to be measured in place and then cut off - not a single one was the same. Step by step, I welded all the balusters.
The balusters are fixed in place - between the internal arches
It would seem that with metal elements it's over, but that's not the case. One flaw that my irresponsible metal bending craftsmen made haunted me. I mean the curved ends of the handrails.
They looked just terrible, so without thinking twice, I cut them down. And then I decided to do it myself, in a more decent performance.
I don’t have a bending machine; making one or buying one for these purposes is irrational. The only way that seemed acceptable to me was to cut notches on pieces of pipe and bend the metal along them.
First, I calculated, taking into account the difference between the internal and external lengths of the arcs, the number of notches and their width. On the pipe scraps I marked the location of the notches in increments of 1 cm. I first cut in a circle of 1 mm, and then cut (not completely) a little wider - in a circle of 2.25 mm.
The result was something similar to a washboard, which could already be bent. This is what I did, fixed it in the required form and brewed it with outside. I didn’t touch the inside; I didn’t want to have to worry about cleaning it later.
Thanks to the notches, I was able to bend the blanks and give them the desired shape
Since initially the blanks for the ends of the handrails were taken with a reserve, after fitting on site, the excess part of the pipes was cut off. The blanks were welded to the handrails.
I also decided to weld the open ends so as not to install plastic plugs. They would look like metal structure foreign and cheap. After welding, the bent parts were carefully cleaned to a shine. They turned out great, almost perfect handrails!
To protect the banks from erosion, they had to be reinforced with pipes and boards. All these reinforcing structures will not be visible, so I did not strive for special beauty. The main thing is that it turned out reliably.
It's time to correct another shortcoming that the manufacturers made metal blanks. Some profiles were of poor quality, with noticeable dents. This had to be cleaned up somehow. Automotive metal putties came to the rescue - I had 2 types.
First I filled the deepest dents with coarse putty and fiberglass, then used finishing putty. At the same time I putty the finish and internal surfaces the ends of the handrails (where there was no welding). I had to work quickly, as the putty hardens in an instant. I hesitated a little and everything had already frozen, I had to make a new batch.
Now the metal surfaces of the bridge seem almost perfect. Can be painted. I chose a classic color for the design – black. All metal surfaces were painted in 2 layers.
The metal parts of the structure are painted black - a completely different look!
It was time to plank the bridge. For several years I had a very high-quality larch board with a ribbed corduroy surface lying in my shed for several years. That's what I decided to use.
The board has a ribbed surface - the flooring will not be slippery
Unfortunately, larch has one unpleasant feature. When it dries, it releases sharp splinters that can easily scratch and injure you. Having taken the boards out of the barn, I saw that this time all front side was strewn with such splinters. The reverse side was in at its best, so it was decided to use it as a front for flooring.
The boards needed to be prepared. I treated them with a priming antiseptic to prevent rotting and to increase their service life. Dried it out. And then covered it with used machine oil. There was an idea to varnish the flooring, but I didn’t dare. Still, there is a high probability that the varnish will crack in humid conditions.
I didn’t want to jeopardize the work of many days. Therefore, I settled on antiseptic and oil - this should be enough for several years of use. However, I plan to renew the oil layer every year so as not to worry about possible problems with rotting.
The boards are dried in a vertical position after treatment with an antiseptic and oil
Then I screwed the boards to the horizontal deck holders using metal screws. I left a small distance between the boards so that any water that gets in could flow into a stream and not linger on the flooring. Still wood flooring remains the weak link in the bridge and the possibility of rotting in the existing damp conditions must be prevented by all means.
The result is a good humpback bridge that can be used without fear. And you can walk without getting your feet wet, and there is a decorative function.
Final view of the humpbacked metal bridge with wooden decking
I hope my master class will not be useless and will be useful to someone in landscape art - I will be only too glad!
Between the road and the fence enclosing your site, special drainage ditches are usually dug. And to cross them you need to build a bridge. You can, of course, just throw a board, but it will not look entirely aesthetically pleasing, especially if there are beautiful pedestrian paths. Well, if your site is equipped with a gate for vehicle entry, then, naturally, no one will help here. It is necessary to build a high-quality bridge. There are several options for installing bridges across drainage ditches.
A wooden bridge is naturally the simplest and a budget option For . It is very easy to install. Holes are dug on both sides of the drainage ditch. A sand cushion 20 centimeters high is poured into them, on which a bed (beams, or round logs) is placed. These beds must first be soaked with some antiseptic solution and coated with tar, which is diluted with diesel fuel. They are placed on the beds, which are also treated with an antiseptic and tar. The logs must be hewn on both sides. The distance between these logs should correspond to the distance between the vehicle tracks. The logs are attached to the logs using metal brackets.
Next, the flooring is nailed onto these logs. Boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used as flooring. There should be a gap of 10-15 mm between the boards. This is done so that the entire bridge can be ventilated, which will significantly increase its durability. To increase the rigidity of the bridge, nails are nailed along its edges. This concerns the wooden bridge.
A bridge made from will last much longer, but will therefore be more expensive. For a concrete bridge, you can use purchased elements, but you can cast it yourself.
Concrete supports in the amount of four to eight are installed on both edges of the ditch. Or you can use concrete as supports
On one's own. Ennobled, harmoniously integrated into the landscape, they are equipped with bridges varying degrees decorativeness. Romantically minded natures build them on flat surface plot, over small ditches, flower beds and “dry streams”, because they decorate the plot, making it more interesting and well-groomed.
Members of our portal offer many options for decorative bridges implemented on their sites. Let's take advantage of their experience.
The style of decorative bridges depends on the size and composition of the area. Small areas It is better to decorate with small bridges; larger objects will fit well into a larger area.
If your house is built in modern style, but has a clear, strict layout, then appearance It is better to choose simple forms for the bridge.
Omi4 made a bridge from decorative stone and metal
Savelij used wood and stone
Wooden bridges of FORUMHOUSE participants Or And Novikova suitable for any site, even if there is no body of water.
With a country-style house or chalet, where there is a lot wooden parts, bridges in a rustic style go well together. Decor is welcome on a bridge of any style; even the most severe forms of the bridge will harmonize well with openwork casting or forging.
User's universal wooden bridge Grem Suitable for most architectural landscape styles
Chinese motifs of a wooden bridge decorated with decor Prosperitas kept at the gazebo.
Openwork bridge AdvacedLTD adds tenderness and makes the landscape almost fabulous.
Decorative bridge for a portal participant Agatha made of bricks, bent bars and boards attracts attention to the flower garden.
Wooden brutal bridge Santolia will add personality to a completely flat area.
Minimalist style of a bridge made of painted boards Spring 888, thanks to its strict shape, will suit any landscape.
How to build a decorative bridge yourself
If the bridge, in addition to purely decorative functions, also has serious practical significance, then it should be medium or larger in size. And in this case, it is better to consult with or entrust all the work to them. It is quite possible to make a small bridge over a shallow ditch or a bridge whose only function is to decorate the site yourself, following the flight of your own imagination and the advice of “experienced” portal participants.
You can combine both options by ordering some parts and doing most of the work yourself. This is how FORUMHOUSE user made his humpbacked bridge IlyaOgnev– he ordered the bent blanks from the workshop, and bought most of the rest himself. Welding of parts, processing of wood and installation of the bridge was carried out by on our own. Useful for installation welding machine, laser level, broken brick, cement, and ordinary working tools.
Finished bridge:
CorsaC939 I completely independently and very quickly built several simple but nice bridges for my site - from pine boards, timber, and the remains of the flooring from the bed were used for the railing. To fasten the units, hardware, nuts, and bolts were used. Tools - screwdriver, jigsaw, drill - the most common tools for working with wood. The cost of all purchased materials was only 1,000 rubles per bridge!
User Gexx talks about his experience of building a simple bridge on a forest plot from bent one and a half inch pipes with welded jumpers, guides from boards. Handrails were not provided due to the immediate prospect of transporting construction materials.
Wooden bridge FORUMHOUSE member djotr can serve its intended purpose, located above a pond, or simply become a decoration of the site - among a flower bed or above a “dry stream”.
And according to the "recipe" djotr portal participant Yulyunchik33 I have already made a similar bridge for myself.
T-80 made a bridge that combines simplicity, practicality and romance.
The original "birch" bridge from Butterfly29.
Log bridge from Stevedore in country style - reliable and emphasizing the overall “rustic” style of the composition.
Bridge - terrace Sergmishel It will also withstand significant weight.
Sergmishel User FORUMHOUSE
The bridge is on a double corner, a screed is poured inside the first two corners, and flagstone is laid on top between the second two corners.
Safety
It’s not just the reliability of your structure that is important. Any bridge, even the most “toy” one, must be safe, since it will definitely be used in children’s games, and I will test its strength by jumping and running.
Considering that all country bridges are small in width, pay attention to the handrails - it is better to avoid open sharp corners and protruding parts at the level of the child’s head. Iron also heats up in the sun in summer, which can lead to hand burns. Such handrails are unlikely to be pleasant in winter, so it is better to cover them with wood or make them entirely from this material.
It is also important to think about how to protect yourself and your household in the event of a fall on the bridge - the opening between the sides and the bottom should not be too large. If you slip on a wet surface, your foot can easily slip into this space, and then injury cannot be avoided.
The surface of the boards should not be perfectly flat if we're talking about about the humpbacked bridge. It is important to make the entrance and exit convenient, level with the bridge. And, of course, it must be stable, so it is necessary to take into account in advance the shrinkage of the supports, the effect of precipitation and water on the soil under the bridge.
Budget
The most expensive bridges are made of metal and specially prepared boards. Wooden bridges made from scrap materials will cost several orders of magnitude cheaper. You can build them yourself; hiring specialists will add costs.
Bridge made professional company, specializing in products and buildings made from specially prepared boards.
Practicality
Installing an entrance to a summer cottage requires certain knowledge and the use of high-quality materials, since any mistakes can lead to negative consequences: pipe blockage, destruction or subsidence of the embankment. Let's look at how to make a bridge over a ditch at the dacha with minimal costs time and money, and what materials will be needed to carry out the work. The work is quite simple, but the technology has certain nuances that you should definitely know about.
When planning, you should not lose sight of the entrance to the dacha; this object should be designed separately
As noted above, when carrying out work it is important to comply with a number of conditions, otherwise the result may be such that the entire structure will have to be redone. The basic requirements for such structures are as follows:
| Even if only yours will travel through the entrance a car, we should not exclude the possibility that heavy freight transport will have to pass through it (for example, if construction materials are being transported or even imported country houses from block containers). Therefore, the tensile strength must be sufficient for the movement of any equipment | |
| Durability | It is important that the embankment is very strong in order to successfully withstand many unfavorable factors: heavy rainfall, temperature changes, erosion in spring and autumn period and so on. For this purpose, the slopes are strengthened different ways: laying turf, concreting, strengthening with geotextiles and so on |
| Sufficient bandwidth | The diameter of the pipe must be such as to ensure the unimpeded passage of water during the wettest period of the year, otherwise the ditch may overflow and flood your property or roadway. It is also important to ensure that the system does not become clogged; below we will look at how to avoid this unpleasant scenario. |
| Pipe strength | The product must withstand all loads without deformation or destruction. There are several basic options, and the choice of a specific solution depends largely on your preferences, because the price varies quite a lot |
In the photo: with a large ditch width, it may be necessary to lay even two pipes
There are several main options that are used most often, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, so you should make your choice carefully in order to avoid unnecessary problems during the work process (see also the article “Pipes for country water supply: selection, installation and heating methods").
When choosing one solution or another, you need to know the following information:
Advice! To increase the resistance of products to corrosion and extend their service life, it is best to pre-treat the surface with mastic; this will preserve the metal for a much longer period.
Metal processing protective compounds allows you to protect it from any adverse effects
It is the corrugated profile that is the secret of the high load-bearing capacity of each element
In order for the crossing of a ditch at the dacha to be reliable, work should be carried out in a certain order, the instructions are as follows:
This is what it looks like general scheme styling
Sometimes it may be necessary to cut elements; in this case, if there is no electricity on the site yet, renting a diesel generator for the dacha will help.
In order for your entrance to the dacha through the ditch to be as durable as possible, it is necessary to strengthen its slopes. Strengthening the ditch on summer cottage can be carried out in any way convenient for you: laying turf, using geotextiles or through concreting.
Sometimes the most simple option may become concreting
The video in this article will tell you some important nuances in more detail, so we recommend watching it to finally understand the features of the work (read also the article “Water purification in the country: a review of available technologies”).
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9dach.ru
When starting to develop their newly acquired plot, many happy owners are faced with the problem of difficult access to it. The reason for this is the sewage or drainage ditches that run along the road or even along the entire perimeter of the village. The most affordable thing that you can easily do with your own hands and that is the first thing that comes to mind for inexperienced summer residents is to drive a bulldozer or arm yourself with shovels, fill the ditch well, level it, compact it and pave it with asphalt.
Construction of the entrance to the site through a ditch
Many people do this. Great, no problems until there is a period of heavy rain or snow melting. The fact is that the sewage ditch is left for a reason, but with the purpose of directing ground or wastewater bypassing the site. Otherwise, flooding threatens the buildings, cellar, and basement of the house.
Making a correct entry into a site is more difficult than simply burying a ditch, but it is more reliable.
This work does not pose any great difficulties, the main thing is to take into account some nuances.
The dissimilar location of the sites, the terrain, and the type of soil determine various device entrance to the territory through a ditch, but still some general features must be taken into account when doing this work with your own hands. What do you need to decide before you start?
Diagram with dimensions for installing an entrance to the site through a ditch
The water drainage device at the entrance to the site allows the use of pipes and structures from a wide variety of materials. The diameter does not matter; water will flow through any hole.
To build an entrance to the site, in addition to the pipe, it is necessary to prepare crushed stone, sand, and the remains of old iron structures.
Read alsoOriginal figures for a summer house and garden plot
couo.ru
Entering the site through a ditch is not at all difficult to do with your own hands. When starting to build a house or cottage, you should first arrange the entrance to the site. It is necessary for construction equipment and the supply of materials, which is why it is done first. The question arises where the drainage ditch might come from. The answer is simple: it is specially arranged between the road and the territory of the site. The main role of the ditch is to collect groundwater, rain, and melt water, preventing it from penetrating the site. Such a ditch cannot simply be filled in, otherwise all the water will go to the site.
Construction of an entrance to the site through a drainage ditch.
Entering the site through a ditch with your own hands is necessary even if there is no personal transport. Arrival is required for the convenient delivery of large volumes of materials: furniture, building materials, etc. The work should be done efficiently in order to avoid frequent repair work due to the heavy load of the entrance. A hired team of specialists will be able to make the entrance efficiently. If the owner has the necessary skills for construction, he can start working on his own, saving money.
Drainage pipe laying structure.
Good run - easy life, so they say experienced summer residents. Let us emphasize once again that its arrangement must be dealt with first of all. For delivery building materials You need a smooth entrance.
And if there is also a ditch in front of the gate, then a bridge is needed that can withstand any load.
If the holiday village is located in a lowland, then a ditch is needed to drain water from the site.
In this case, you will need a special passage for the car.
The entrance should not only be durable, but also beautiful, because it is the first thing guests see.
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If the area in front of the gate is flat, then it is covered with screenings or small gravel. The presence of a ditch complicates this process somewhat. It cannot be covered up and forgotten, because groundwater in the spring, not only your yard, but also the yards of your neighbors can flood.
You will have to resort to a method that does not require filling up the ditch. It is, at first glance, simple, but has its own characteristics.
The ditch can be concreted and a pipe laid for water flow. The drive is set up on top of a ditch. To do this, a pipe is laid in the ditch. This option, although complicated, is used by many at their dachas. To ensure that the pipe does not move anywhere, the bottom of the ditch is filled with crushed stone, after which the pipe is laid. It is also covered with crushed stone, which is mixed with sand. This backfill is then compacted. The pipe can be fixed with concrete mortar, so the entry will become more reliable. As a finishing touch, you can lay slabs or decorative stones.
Laying scheme drainage pipes.
This option has its advantages:
In order to make a check-in with your own hands, you need to have the following tools:
If you decide to pour concrete, then you need a manual vibrator to level the mixture.
But where there are advantages, there are also disadvantages. For example, the heavy weight of the pipe, which for this reason is inconvenient to install yourself. You will have to hire special equipment, which will require additional costs. And the pipe itself doesn’t cost a penny. It is better to find a pipe that has already been used, but this takes time.
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The second check-in option is sleepers. This design is not very strong, but it can withstand the weight of a loaded car. This option is more suitable for a minibus or passenger car. Sleepers are fast and economical way make a check-in with your own hands. Wooden sleepers do not rot for a long time, as they undergo special treatment during manufacturing. The only thing that can confuse the owner is the harsh and bad smell. But even here you can get out of it: new sleepers have a pungent smell, but you can also buy used ones, which have been well ventilated over the years of being on the street. And their cost will be much lower than new ones.
Schemes for determining the marks of the bottom of the drainage ditch on the sides of the site: a - according to 9-6; b - 6-4.
Let us note the advantages of such entry:
There is one drawback. The sleepers simply lie on the ground, and in the spring (after the snow melts) they can move apart, since they are not secured by anything. If this option suits you, then you can begin arranging the driveway. True, every spring will begin with repairs and laying sleepers.
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When entering the site through a ditch, you can fill concrete slab, which will serve for many years. You can do it yourself, which involves physical and financial costs, or you can install a ready-made one yourself.
The large weight of these products must be taken into account when laying, so it is impossible to do without special equipment. And an hour of operation of such equipment costs quite a lot.
There is one more important nuance: Not every terrain is suitable for installing a reinforced concrete slab entrance. If floods occur in the spring, the soil on which the slab rests will be washed away by water and the slabs will begin to shift.
As a result, cracks and fractures will appear, which will lead to the destruction of the slab. In this case, you will have to make repairs, although repairs are not the best solution; it will be much safer to replace the stove with a new one.
For this reason, such races are very rare, especially when compared with previous options. And the installation process is very labor-intensive. In addition, the slab can support less weight than the same concrete pipe laid in a ditch. And if the visit is made in order to transport materials for building a house, the slab may simply break under intense load. Purchasing a new stove is not a cheap pleasure. In other words, you should think carefully before getting to work, so as not to regret it later.
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Arranging the entrance to the territory of a summer cottage or country house is a matter that does not tolerate hasty decisions. Here you should think carefully before getting to work and buying building materials. Experienced craftsmen advise using the first option of creating a race with your own hands, since the pipe is more reliable than reinforced concrete slabs.
The methods given above can be implemented independently. Of course, any job requires certain skills and abilities, so if you doubt your abilities, then hire better than specialists. The team will do all the work not only efficiently, but also quickly.
Owners of a site with a drainage ditch will have to think about constructing a durable driveway. The above several methods will help solve this problem. In addition, the drive can be made not only durable, but also visually attractive: by planting small trees or boxwood bushes, making flower beds and planting flowers, preferably perennials. They will look beautiful and climbing roses, supported by trellises. However, beautification of the entry area is a separate issue.
Let's look at how to competently make a durable and practical entry to a summer cottage through a drainage ditch, sequentially, noting the main stages:
1) At the very beginning, a pillow is poured. As bulk material For the base of the drive, crushed stone is taken, the bottom of the ditch is first cleaned and prepared.
Such a cushion is poured to support concrete pipes, which should not sink into the ground under their own weight and the weight of the laying materials located above. The pipe is taken to be a double-walled plastic corrugated pipe, with dimensions of 0.46/6 m and a concrete pipe of 0.5 m/2.5 m.
Plastic pipe today executed by modern technologies and is absolutely in no way inferior to concrete in terms of its strength characteristics, and the calculation is based on the load of passage of construction technical vehicles.
2.) Install a pair along the edges retaining walls so that flowing water streams do not erode our bulk materials and destroy the artificial race. The bulk materials used are sand and granite screenings.
Before installing them, you need to install the correct formwork, with geometric point vision. We install a double mesh made of reinforcement, and then fill it all in concrete mortar.
You can take solutions of the following brands:
3.) From 3 to 7 days, the concrete solution will remain in the formwork and harden. After this time, it becomes strong and durable, taking on the desired shape to serve for many years.
The air temperature when pouring concrete should be at least +5 degrees. It is recommended to carry out filling work in summer, autumn or spring. In some cases, concrete is poured at -5 degrees, but only with the use of special winter mixtures.
4.) We fill the distance between the retaining walls with crushed stone, of course, after dismantling the formwork. Crushed stone is poured to the level of the top pipe, and geotextiles are laid on top. It spreads so that bulk sand or screenings are not washed away by rain and melted snow waters.
A month later, after completion of all stages of work, the materials used shrink a little. And you can put into operation and safely use the entrance through the drainage ditch to your site after 3 days from completion of installation.
Taking into account the calculations of employees of companies providing services for the construction of entrances to the site through the ditch, average cost their work will cost about 30,000 rubles. This average price individual construction check-in
