Previously, the floors of many residential buildings were made of wood. Such coatings are environmentally friendly, but not always convenient. Therefore, sometimes owners decide to use a wooden base as a frame for ceramic tiles.
Ceramic tiles are one of the most durable and high-quality materials suitable for creating flooring. She resists easily high humidity and temperature changes. Therefore, it is used in almost any home where it is necessary to create comfortable living conditions.
Sometimes tiles are laid on wooden bases. But it should be understood that these materials are not compatible.
This is due to several technical characteristics.
It's technically possible to install tiles on wood floors, but it's not always possible. rational decision. To extend the service life of such a connection, it is important to follow precise installation technology and the recommendations of experienced specialists.
The technology for installing tiles on a wooden floor is quite complex. Here it is important not only to securely fix the material to the base, but also to maintain the durability of the wood frame.
To lay tiles correctly, you should follow a few simple rules.
To achieve a durable structure, it is important to follow all expert advice. Therefore, before laying tiles on a wooden floor, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the technology in detail, as well as select the right materials for the job.
The quality of the floor base is one of the factors that determines the lifespan of tiles laid on top of wood. Therefore, almost all experts recommend starting installation work by inspecting the condition of the wooden floor.
To analyze the condition of the existing structure, it should be carried out complete dismantling.
The inspection algorithm can be divided into several successive steps.
Particular attention during inspection wooden floors should be given to two main factors.
The technology for assessing the condition of the floor involves in most cases the complete dismantling of floor coverings and their subsequent installation.
Therefore, if possible, it is better to replace them with a concrete screed, which will withstand almost any type of tile.
Installation of tiles is carried out using special compounds. However, often an additional layer of screed is formed on wooden floors, which can be made from special products.
As for ceramic mixtures, you can glue it to wooden bases using different products. Many of them also contain cement and additional polymer additives. There are no specialized mixtures for wood, since tiles in most cases are mounted on rigid concrete bases.
Before gluing the product to the surface, it is important to clarify the type of composition that will be suitable for the existing materials. You can glue tiles to a base of plasterboard boards, for example, using mixtures that are designed to work with gypsum. Therefore, many experts recommend consulting with sellers who can advise best option, suitable for solving the task.
Quality of preparation wooden base is the key to long and reliable service of the floor covering. Today, experts use several methods for preparing the surface of a wooden floor.
One of the simplest approaches is express technology, which involves performing several sequential steps.
The described preparation method is simple and fast. Wherein this technology does not require serious financial expenses. However, it is important to pay attention to the fact that the installation of plasterboard sheets should not be carried out in the bathroom or other rooms with high levels of humidity. This is due to the fact that gypsum absorbs moisture very quickly, which is why it subsequently loses its original properties.
An alternative to the first option is the formation of a wet screed. This process also involves several specific steps.
note that cement screeds- This is one of the most reliable ways to prepare a floor. Such a surface will not noticeably deform and will create a solid base for any floor covering.
There is also a “dry” method of preparing the subfloor. This approach is also carried out according to an established algorithm.
Almost all technologies involve removing the paint layer by laying top protective layers. This will allow you to prevent it from swelling or peeling.
One more prerequisite preparation is the treatment of wood with protective compounds.
They are needed to prevent rotting or development harmful insects in the tree structure.
The technology for laying ceramic tiles on a wooden base is practically no different from the classical method.
The process itself is quite simple, which allows you to do all the steps yourself even without much experience.
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Often in older houses, the floors are made of wood, living rooms this material is good in many respects, but here’s what to do if the floors in the bathroom are made of wood, and you plan to install tiles. And therefore, a logical question arises: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor? We answer right away, yes, it is possible, but only by strictly observing the technology for performing the work, which we will discuss in detail in this article.
First, a little about why laying tiles on a wooden floor is undesirable:
As we stated at the very beginning of our article, there is a solution to the problem. It is only necessary to properly prepare the surface for laying tiles. Moreover, there are three ways to do this:
The method is suitable provided that the wooden floor structure is in excellent condition. In this case, preparing the foundation will be the least expensive. Scroll necessary materials limited to moisture-resistant plasterboard (GKVL) and polyurethane adhesive, which has an elastic structure that is not disturbed in the event of any movement of the wooden base. And the process itself will look like this:
The advantages of this method will be:
Preparing the base using this method is not much different from traditional surface preparation using a cement-sand screed. The only thing you need to remember is that load bearing capacity The wooden floor structure has its limitations, and therefore the screed used should be no thicker than three centimeters. It is also possible to use various self-leveling mixtures on a polymer or cement base, and the screed is 1 cm thick.
It is better to purchase materials used from reliable and trusted manufacturers to be sure of a good final result.
Stages of work:
Dignity this method there will be reliability and strength of the base not subject to deformation as a result of movements of the wooden frame.
To the disadvantages This may include high labor costs and a reduction in the height of the room due to the formation of an additional screed.
A very popular and widespread method, which has many advantages compared to the method in which screeding is performed, which involves labor-intensive and also dirty work. Therefore, many professionals and just home craftsmen prefer this method of preparing the base.
In this case, the tiles are laid on plywood or chipboard. To impart rigidity to the structure being constructed, plywood should be used no thinner than 22 mm when installing it on a subfloor, and when installing directly on joists, the thickness should be increased to 30 mm.
Let's highlight some points that you definitely need to pay attention to:
If you do not have the material in stock required thickness, then in this case it is possible to use thinner plywood, but at the same time put it in two layers glued together and additionally connected with self-tapping screws.
Do not forget to check that the seams of different layers do not coincide with each other, and also ensure that there is a gap between the individual sheets to ensure the movement of the material during thermal expansion.
The width of such a gap should be 2-3 mm. Between the wall and the structure being installed, the gap around the entire perimeter should be 10-12 mm. Subsequently, it is sealed with polyurethane foam or sealant and covered with a plinth.
Before covering the base with ceramics, you need to prepare the plywood by thoroughly cleaning it from dirt and then sanding it. After this, the plywood is finally cleaned of dust using a damp sponge. Then the base is treated with antiseptic compounds, water-repellent primers and applied waterproofing layer. Next on front side Serpyanka painting mesh is attached to the base. This event will significantly improve the adhesion of the ceramics to the base material. Next, several layers of primer are applied, which, in addition to adhesive properties, will give the structure additional moisture protection.
Not every adhesive mixture is suitable for working on plywood and chipboard. An indispensable condition for such glue should be the inclusion in its composition of elements with high elastic properties. The consistency of such a mixture is quite liquid and therefore there is no need to tap the laid tile with a hammer; it is quite easy to press the fragment to the base with the adhesive mixture applied to it.
There are also non-standard ways of gluing tiles to plywood. Craftsmen use liquid nails, sodium silicate solution (better known as office glue or liquid glass), and even homemade compositions from a mixture of NC varnish with polystyrene foam dissolved in acetone or gasoline. But you must be aware that there will be no guarantee of long-term operation of the resulting coating. As the classics said: “This is not our method...”. Saving when choosing glue is a big misconception.
You should not prepare too much of the adhesive mixture, as it sets quite quickly. The recommended volume of finished glue should provide installation of 1 square meter. tiles
The process of laying ceramics on a plywood surface is no different from the traditional installation of tiles on a concrete or cement-sand base. Let us remind you that styling tiles on a wooden floor, the event is not entirely standard, and therefore, in order to obtain a high-quality result, it is necessary to strictly follow the process technology and all recommendations and instructions.
If you are deciding whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, kitchen or other home, you should take into account the properties of the materials and their compatibility. In order for the tiling to serve for a long time, it is necessary to prepare a solid base that will not deform. For this reason, a concrete floor screed is best suited for this purpose.
However, this is not a hard limitation. If desired, it is permissible to use other materials (plank structure as a base or particle boards). However, in this case, you need to follow the technology for laying tiles and porcelain stoneware.
When combining ceramics and wood, moisture-resistant plywood or other wood-containing materials, a number of problems arise, in particular:
If for some reason only wood is considered as a material for flooring and tiles for cladding, such a combination can be used. However, in this case it is necessary to ensure suitable conditions to avoid the appearance of defects and pay special attention to the strength of the base.
So, when choosing a material (wood or particle boards), its quality is checked. There should be no rot or knots on the boards. Only beams of equal size are selected. As a result, tile distortion can be avoided. At correct installation the foundation should be provided with a sufficient level of staticity.
In addition, it is possible to reduce the intensity of the negative manifestation of the difference in the linear expansion of materials. Achieved desired result by using an adhesive composition suitable for its properties.
If you lay the tiles correctly using an adhesive containing polymer additives, you can do without a screed.
In a private home, ventilation is important, allowing air flow to circulate without delay. Violation of this process entails the appearance of dampness. If the waterproofing is not done well enough, the tree will soon be destroyed due to the developing process of rotting. High-quality moisture protection will help reduce the risk of this phenomenon. If all these recommendations are taken into account, the cladding will last a long time.
A wooden floor in a private house is characterized by complex design. Considering the difficulties described above that arise when installing the cladding, it is necessary to more carefully prepare the base. Before making a screed or taking on the final flooring, it is necessary to assess the condition of the boards and joists.
An external inspection will not provide the required result, since major defects (cracks, mold, rot, etc.) may be hidden inside the structure.
It is recommended to remove the boards covering the base. This measure will provide the desired result, provided that you plan to lay tiles on an old wooden floor. If the base is new, and the cladding is installed immediately after completing the work on the rough structure, there is no need to additionally check the condition of the boards.
It is a mistake to believe that the absence of extraneous sounds when walking (creaks, etc.), as well as the strong fastening of the boards, is a sign of the reliability of the base. Some problems can only be identified after opening the upper floorboards, for example: the presence of mold, non-compliance with the technology for laying joists (increasing the distance between the beams). When the logs are installed in violation of the standards (there should be 50 cm between them), the entire structure is shifted. This rule should be followed, since the surface of the finished floor should be smooth.
Preparing a wooden floor involves the need to process the material. For this purpose, special compounds are used to prevent rotting and destruction of wood, for example, antiseptics and fire retardants. It is advisable to assemble the base for the tiles from pre-treated lumber. At the same time, a special composition penetrates into any cracks, covers the boards on all sides, reducing the risk of damage to the wood due to developing mold.
To lay tiles, you need to make sure that the design meets the requirements. For example, when installing joists, as well as during the process of laying a finished floor (plank flooring), it is recommended to constantly check the position of the boards using a building level.
The slightest distortion will lead to a reduction in the service life of the cladding.
Moreover, during the installation of the logs, it is permissible to place wedges to level the structure, since in this case significant shortcomings of the subfloor, which is the soil cover or concrete screed, may arise. And the boardwalk is leveled after fixing it on the joists. In this case, improvement of the surface quality of the finished floor is carried out by grinding. Special tool cut off areas that protrude above the surface of the boards (knots, waves).
If the general condition of the tree is normal, but there are several defects (cracks, crevices), you can avoid additional costs and eliminate leaks. This solution is used only when the design flaws are minor. This is done to prevent the gap from growing. Significant defects are eliminated by replacing a separate (deformed) beam/board. Other shortcomings of the subfloor are hidden in different ways:
The old boardwalk is removed. On at this stage check the position of the joists; if there are irregularities, they are eliminated using wedges and additional boards with smaller dimensions. The new flooring is laid only after the gaps between the joists are filled with expanded clay. This measure helps strengthen the structure. In addition, expanded clay fractions intensively retain heat in the room.
A gap of at least 5 cm thick is left between the bulk material and the boardwalk.
Paul in wooden house It is mounted with leaks, due to which air circulation inside the structure is normalized. However, in cases where it is planned to lay tiles, the gaps between the boards can be minimal.
If the methods discussed above (grinding, replacing boards or beams) are impractical to use for some reason (there is no special equipment for removing a layer of wood, there is no possibility of installing new boards), you can consider other options based on the use of sheets of moisture-resistant gypsum fiber board (plasterboard), particle boards (plywood, chipboard). You can also fill the screed with your own hands. This is the most suitable method, as it ensures static, reliable coverage.
This option allows you to level and strengthen the surface of the subfloor. However, porcelain tiles or porcelain tiles are not laid over untreated plywood sheets. It should be protected from moisture contained in the adhesive. It is also impossible to lay ceramic tiles on fiberboard/chipboard without a special coating.
Step-by-step instructions for finishing wood-based material before installing the cladding:
CSP board (cement-bonded particle board) withstands exposure to water better than others. This option is advisable to use when arranging a bathroom floor in a wooden house. It is suitable for the toilet, kitchen and other rooms where the air humidity level is often increased.
Before laying drywall over wooden joists, it must rest in the room for at least 24 hours before starting work.
A multilayer structure will allow you to strengthen the structure and provide a static base. When installing the second layer, you need to take into account the need to bandage the seams. This means that there should not be less than 20 cm between the edges of the sheets of the first and second layer. In order to lay the floor tiles, 3 layers of plasterboard are laid. They are attached with glue. Additionally, the sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws of sufficient length. After puttying, the tiles are laid on the DSP.
This method has the advantage of no contact of wood with moisture, which negatively affects the properties of such a material. In this case, ready-made plasterboard blocks (GVL) are used. They are made in the form of a multilayer structure. Moreover, such blocks take into account the dressing of seams.
The principle of laying products of this type is similar to how plywood is laid on a wooden floor, but there is no need to seal the joints.
Instructions for performing the screed:
If you plan to install the cladding in a bathhouse or other room with high humidity, it is prohibited to use coloring compounds. Under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, the paint will crack and lose its properties. Available and effective options:
To lay porcelain stoneware or tiles on the floor, consider mixtures suitable for installing these materials. When choosing, it is important to consider the ability of the mixture to withstand the expansion of the boards. If you miss this moment, cracks will soon appear in the cladding.
To compensate for the linear expansion of wood, special tile adhesive is used. It must contain polymer additives. A high elasticity index is the second most important criterion after compliance with the type of decorative coating. You can stick tiles onto a concrete floor (screed over a wooden structure) using a cement-based compound.
To carry out work on wood, with cement (if it is planned to fill the wooden structure with concrete), preparation is carried out with waterproofing. You will need:
Assess the room for the presence of free zones where the cladding is best visible. It is recommended to start work from one of these areas, since here you will not have to cut the tiles. After preliminary installation of the cladding, the room is divided into zones; for clarity, they are separated from each other by a coated cord. This will make your work easier. The adhesive composition is prepared immediately before laying the tiles.
The glue is applied either to the floor or to the back of the porcelain tiles/tiles. Then the tiles are laid in accordance with the previously drawn up sketch. Cross-shaped stops are installed between adjacent products. During the process, the position of the products is regularly checked using a level. When the glue dries, it is recommended to grout the seams.
Electric cables and water heating systems are installed in several various schemes. A warm electric floor is installed according to the following instructions:
Water systems are connected to centralized heating, which is associated with a number of difficulties, so this option is used less frequently. Installation features:
The level of comfort in our homes is constantly increasing. Even wooden houses must have bathrooms. What kind of floor should be in the bathroom? From tiles or porcelain stoneware. But to avoid problems, you need to know how to lay tiles on a wooden floor. There are techniques and rules that allow tile and wood to coexist peacefully.
Floor tiles are one of the most convenient coverings for the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen. Some people prefer this covering on the hallway floor. Owners of floor joists often wonder whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Can. There are materials that make the idea real, but first let’s look at the difficulties that can be expected.
If you do not take into account the mobility of the floor, the tiles may bounce off
To decide whether it is possible to lay tiles on your wooden floor, you need to inspect the joists and boards. If the joists and boards are in good condition, the floor under your feet does not “walk”, the tiles or porcelain tiles will also lie without problems. Is there a slight deflection? Perhaps it will be eliminated sheet material, which is still placed on the boards under the tiles. If the deflection is large, it is better not to take risks. Still, the materials cost a lot.
If the floor boards are poor condition or they sag, and the logs will stand for another thirty years, there are three options:
The first option is the least realistic - this is an almost complete overhaul of the floor. In this case, it’s better to do it. All the same, after all, the floor was practically dismantled, and a cement base is always more reliable, and not only for tiles. And you can make a warm floor. Just one note. A screed can be made if the load-bearing capacity of the floor or foundation or both allows it.
If the logs are no good and the board is no good, it is best to make a screed. You can have a lightweight one, or you can have a regular one. You need to look, as we have already said, at the load-bearing capacity, but laying tiles on rotten joists and boards will not lead to anything good.
Wooden floors and tiles or porcelain tiles have different values of temperature and humidity deformations. To put it simply, when temperature and humidity change, they change their sizes in different ways. Wood changes a lot, ceramics - only slightly. The difference is significant. If you do not pay attention to this, the tiles will crack or cracks will appear in the seams. But there are methods for laying tiles on an unstable base and materials that can compensate for this difference.
This is how the problem of different expansion of wooden floors and ceramics is solved. Let's say right away that tile adhesive and grout for wood floors are more expensive than usual. This is due to the polymers that give elasticity to the compounds. But it’s clearly not worth saving and buying regular glue.
When humidity is high, wood rots. While the wood is open, covered only with paint or varnish, moisture evaporates. But if there are ways for moisture to leak in, you can’t lock it in the floor. It is necessary to eliminate the sources, dry the structure and only after that, lay the tiles on a dry floor.
If you are going to lay tiles on a plank floor in an apartment, and it is on the second floor or higher, there are no questions at all. Inspect the joists and boards, if everything is fine, then continue using the chosen technology. How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor in a house? If the floor is ventilated, has been sitting for several years and nothing has happened to it, the insulation (if any) is dry, the boards do not rot, the house is dry... There are also no problems. You can lay tiles on the sheet material fixed to the boards with glue. Just like that, without much fuss.
If problems are found during the audit, or there is high humidity in the house, this problem is solved first. Then, after time has passed, you can lay the tiles on the floor.
Proper laying of tiles must meet several conditions. First. The cake must be thought out so that the boards and insulation (if any) are not in a humid environment. That is, if there is a possibility of increased humidity, care must be taken to ensure that the moisture is removed. Second. Different thermal expansions must be compensated for. For this purpose, special tile adhesive and grout are used for wood and unstable substrates.
To minimize the possibility of cracks in the tiles, it is better to take tiles that are not too large in size. Perfect option- mosaic. When laying, do not forget about the technological gap around the perimeter of the room - the coating should not rest against the walls.
If you are going to lay tiles on a wooden floor in the bathroom, waterproofing is a must. It is placed on leveled and prepared boards, under sheet material. The waterproofing is laid out over the entire area, extending onto the walls, where it is hermetically sealed. Moreover, the material must simultaneously perform the functions of a vapor barrier. That is, it should not allow water and water vapor to pass through. The cheapest option is polyethylene film with a density of 200 kg/m². But it should be laid in two layers, not in one. They sell it by the sleeve, so they put it away. Without cutting. You can also use other materials. There are many different ones, but keep in mind that it should be a vapor barrier.
There is no need for waterproofing in the corridor. There's no need to put it there. There is no such amount of water that can cause any harm. It is better to use hydrophobic grout for joints (which does not allow water to pass through). It will be better and more reliable.
In the kitchen, installing a hydro-vapor barrier is desirable. But you have to look at how the floor is designed. If it is without insulation and there is a well-ventilated underground underneath, it is possible without waterproofing. Take waterproof sheet material, go through the joints of the sheets with silicone, use hydrophobic tile adhesive and seal the seams with hydrophobic putty. This will be sufficient even for short-term emergencies.
If the wooden floor is insulated mineral wool, you need to take measures to prevent water from getting into it, but you also need to organize everything so that moisture is not trapped inside the insulation. This means that in each specific case a different solution is chosen. But the correct sequence of layers is this (bottom to top):
With this device, it turns out that moisture that somehow got into the insulation will be removed through a vapor-permeable membrane from below. This arrangement is typical for ventilated subfloors. If you don't know how to lay tiles on wooden floor second floor, a counter-lattice and ceiling lining of the first floor will be added below.
First you need to level the floor as much as possible. Old boards can bend and it is advisable to remove these irregularities. Sanding, plane, putty. Than there is a possibility. There are ways to lay it this way, but it’s safer to use level base. Less problems will be during operation.
The second stage is to additionally secure the boards with self-tapping screws to the joists. This will reduce the possibility of sagging. The result is an almost monolithic slab. If only some boards sag, you can connect them to the neighboring ones by screwing in self-tapping screws at an angle or driving in nails.
Sheet material is placed on cleaned and leveled boards in two layers, spacing the seams. Everyone chooses what they like. Most often used:
Plywood remains the most popular. It is the most durable and does not bend, but its cost is now inhumane. There are cheaper materials - the same, gypsum board, . They have their drawbacks, but they are also used. A combination of materials can be used. For example, for rigidity, lay plywood on the boards, and on it - DSP. This cement-based material is good for tile adhesive. But if you lay it directly on the boards, over time it will repeat the shape of the base. If the floor is uneven, the same unevenness will appear on the sheet. If there is a tile on it, it will either break or bounce off. So this combination - plywood + fiberboard - is more optimal in terms of costs and characteristics.
There are three options for attaching sheet material to the floor:
Instead of foam, you can use tile adhesive. Apply to the floor, spread with a comb (notched trowel). Under the weight of the slab, the glue will be redistributed, filling the gaps. The sheets of the second row are laid at intervals between the seams (so that the seams are shifted at least 50 cm). They are attached to the first one with self-tapping screws. You can also immediately use foam and screws. They do this, but there is no particular need for it.
In order for the flooring to be sufficiently strong and reliable, the sheet material is laid in two layers. The sheets are cut so that the seams in the layers are spaced 50 cm apart. This will reduce the likelihood of through cracks and prevent water (in case it somehow gets into the gap) from getting onto the boards. The sheets are not placed end to end, but leaving gaps of 3-7 mm. These are so-called expansion joints. The width of the seam depends on the type of material. The joints under the tiles do not need to be puttied, but if you want to achieve complete tightness, fill them with elastic sealant.
When laying sheets around the perimeter of the room - between the flooring and the walls - leave a gap of at least 1 cm wide. This is a compensation gap. It will allow the coating to change size with changes in humidity and temperature. To prevent the gap from remaining empty (this reduces sound insulation), it is filled with foamed polyethylene (used as a backing for laminate). The height of the damper tape is not lower than the level of the tile. The tiles should not rest against the walls. If you forget about it, it will fly off.
Before laying ceramic tiles, consider choosing a tile adhesive. There is tile adhesive for unstable substrates. This is just wood. It differs from the usual composition in that it remains elastic.
If you are laying tiles on a wooden floor in the bathroom, make sure that the adhesive has improved water-repellent characteristics. Paired with hydrophobic grout for joints, such a coating will be completely waterproof. Otherwise, laying tiles is no different. The whole process is identical to laying tiles on concrete.
There are, perhaps, a couple of points. But this is not necessary, but from the “how to do better” series. First, it will be easier if the tiles are small in size. Smaller tiles are less likely to cause cracks. There are more seams, they remain elastic. All advances are compensated at their expense. Mosaic is ideal in this regard, but not everyone can afford the price. Second. If you do use large-format tiles, when designing the tile layout, try to select it so that the seams of the tiles are above the seams in the base. It is desirable that the spacing of the seams be no more than 5 cm. This, again, will ensure that the seam “plays out” and the tile remains intact.
If the bearing capacity of the foundation or floor allows, you can pour a screed on top of the wooden floor, and then lay tiles on it. Why is this tile laying technology better? The fact that all movements of the floor are taken over by the screed. It also ensures tightness. The concrete is simply laid with tiles as usual. Using regular tile adhesive.
If the bearing capacity of the foundation, joists and boards allows, a hydro-vapor barrier is laid on the floor surface. It must be placed on the walls and secured there. On this layer you can lay the same PVC film in two layers, but it will most likely tear. But torn insulation doesn't work. Therefore, it is better to take something more durable. Membranes or reinforced films are much stronger, although more expensive. But redoing the entire floor because it will rot will cost more.
When laying waterproofing in the corners, where the material is lifted onto the wall, make small folds. This margin will not allow the film/membrane to stretch. This will increase the likelihood that it will remain intact. Reinforcing material is placed on the laid waterproofing metal mesh. For a regular floor, 100*100*3 mm is suitable. The mesh is welded, not chain-link. You don't want to have a trampoline instead of a floor. Therefore, you definitely need a welded one - with welded joints. The mesh sheets are laid overlapping one another by 15-20 cm. It is not necessary to tie them together.
Next, the beacons are placed and the screed is poured or laid. Wet or semi-dry - your choice. Minimum thickness 35-40 mm. By the way, you can lay heated floor pipes in this screed, but then you will need to lay a layer of insulation under the film.
The composition of the mortar for floor screed under tiles is standard. Cement + 4 parts sand + water. To reduce cracking, reinforcing fiber is added. This combination - reinforcement in the screed and micro-fiber reinforcement - increases the likelihood that the tiles on the floor in a wooden house will lie without problems. After the screed has matured - after 28 days - you can lay the tiles. There are no restrictions here. All movements will be leveled by a concrete slab.
Ceramic tiles are considered ideal material for walls and floors of rooms exposed to moisture and temperature changes. These are, as a rule, kitchens, bathrooms, baths. True, the process of laying it itself is fraught with certain difficulties due to the need for a suitable foundation and some experience of such work for a home craftsman. As for the second, skillful hands and the desire to carry out your plans at any cost will come to the rescue. But regarding the basis, the issue is controversial. You cannot do without proper knowledge; all work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements technological process, non-compliance with which may result in flooring It will turn out to be of poor quality and will not be able to perform the necessary functions. In principle, today, carrying out repairs with your own hands is an activity, one might say, even fashionable, so many home craftsmen have at least rudimentary knowledge in this regard regarding the technologies for carrying out certain works. Nevertheless, sometimes there are situations that are perplexing due to the originality of the question. For example: “Can it be laid on tiles?” Agree, this will not come to everyone’s mind, because, as a rule, ceramics are usually laid on a concrete base. And not for wood. However, sometimes there are still situations when it is literally vital to lay tiles on a wooden floor - in a bathhouse, for example, or in the kitchen of a private house. What to do in this case? Is this just a whim of the owner who doesn’t understand anything about finishing work or is this really possible? Let's try to answer this difficult question. So, is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?
In principle, here you can get by with just a few words. These two materials are practically incompatible. And you can “make friends” with each other only by creating special conditions. The tree cannot tolerate instability of the temperature background, constantly changing its size as it changes. It is not difficult to imagine what will happen to the ceramics, under which, so to speak, lumber lives its own special life, being in constant motion. The tile will naturally begin to crack, move away from the base, and chips will appear on it under the influence of loads. In turn, the tree, tightly “packed” under the ceramics, will not be able to receive the much-needed air, which is why it will begin to rot and deform. In general, it turns out to be a kind of vicious circle. Is it possible to break it? How can the owner of a private house, who can no longer watch without tears how his wood flooring becomes less and less attractive every day from constant exposure to moisture or temperature changes, install tiles on wood or in the kitchen? Let's say right away: this can be done. But it should be done only if there are really compelling reasons, because the procedure for preparing a wooden base will take a lot of time, in addition, it will require very significant expenses, effort and money. Are you ready to part with both the first and the second? Well, good luck. As they say, nothing is impossible. If you really want it, why not try it. True, you will have to thoroughly study the process technology and choose the appropriate option for your case.
Our home craftsmen are sometimes quite capricious and stubborn. A man needs ceramic tiles for wooden floor- and that’s it. And the last one was installed quite recently; the house was occupied almost a few days ago. This is the option when, unfortunately, you won’t be able to please yourself. Such an idea will have to be abandoned in any case. Because a new wooden floor covering will still have to acclimatize for at least three years, getting used to unusual conditions, and shrink, the end of which must certainly be waited for. And only then implement your plans.
So, what does someone who sets out to lay tiles on a wooden floor have in their assets as a basic foundation? We have already said that the new coating is not subject to such arrangement. So, as a base House master, most likely, will have three types of flooring. These are worn-out and unattractive boards lying on relatively strong joists, a floor made of plywood or fiberboard, which also causes despondency with its appearance, but still amenable to reincarnation, and a relatively strong plank covering that is in normal condition, which requires laying tiles due to the prevailing circumstances. Regardless of which option is available, the home craftsman will be faced with one task: to create a strong and even base suitable for laying ceramics. The difference will be the appearance repair work and their volume. Therefore, before laying tiles on a wooden floor - in a bathroom, bathhouse, hallway, kitchen, it doesn’t matter - you need to carefully study the existing base and choose the appropriate preparation method. Actually, there are two of them. This is dry leveling and wet leveling. But in any case, you need to remember one thing: laying tiles on a wooden floor without a screed and careful preparation of the base will not work. As a matter of fact, difficulties, especially ones created with one’s own hands, will have to be overcome in any case. And so that home craftsman it was easier, then we will tell you in detail about all the preparation options.
Its principle is to create an additional rough layer for cladding on an existing base. This can be done by installing sheets of plywood - always moisture-resistant - directly on the existing “original” base, creating an additional floor covering on joists with insulation between the old and new floors, and using ready-made sets of adjustable floors mounted on top of the existing worn-out base. In addition, today there is another material at the disposal of those who want to lay tiles on a wooden floor - gypsum fiber boards. They will not only successfully replace plywood, but also, thanks to their special composition, will help create a normal microclimate for the base boards.
This tile option is considered the most common. Which is not surprising, since it has a lot of advantages and only one drawback. The first concerns primarily the speed of work. You can level the floor in this way quite quickly, without breaks between stages, which most often slow down the repair process. In addition, if you choose the option with logs, then by laying insulation you can significantly increase the insulating qualities of the surface. Well, the third plus is the creation minimum load on an already not particularly special quality characteristics As for the disadvantages, as we have already mentioned, there is only one - this method of leveling “eats up” the height of the room. Therefore, in rooms with low ceilings It is sometimes inappropriate to use it.
Essentially, this is the same screed, the difference is that it is made on a wooden surface and with some reservations. The latter include the fact that, firstly, it should be lightweight (no more than three centimeters) due to the not very good condition of the wooden floor and its inability to bear significant loads, and secondly, it is not made over the entire surface, but with gaps along the perimeter. This is a kind of floating option. Thanks to this trick ceramic coating will not suffer from movement wooden elements, which in any case cannot be calmed down in any way.
Here, in principle, everything is quite conditional. The undoubted advantage of this method is that it will have virtually no effect on the height of the room, but a huge disadvantage is that the procedure itself is quite lengthy, requiring significant breaks between stages. But sometimes those who are looking for an answer to the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor have no choice. If a screed is the only acceptable option, then you will have to put up with temporary losses.
Well, now that we’ve sorted out the theory, let’s move on directly to the process itself.
Whatever leveling method the home craftsman prefers, the old plank base requires preparation in any case. Lay the tiles on a wooden floor in the bathroom, and even in a room less exposed to moisture, without carrying out preliminary repair and cleaning work base surface it won't work.
First of all, you need to check the integrity of the floorboards and the joists themselves. If any elements become unusable, they need to be replaced. Then you need to remove all the paint. If you plan to make additional flooring on joists, then the base leveling is not required, but if you use plywood, gypsum fiber board, chipboard or wet screed, you will have to arm yourself grinder and carefully cut off all the humps. Then the old one floorboard should be treated with an antiseptic and existing cracks should be filled with putty if possible. And then be sure to drill ventilation holes. And only then start leveling.
In principle, there is nothing complicated here. If an additional floor covering is created on joists, then first the supports are installed with a step between them of 30 cm, then the insulation is laid, after which everything is covered with moisture-resistant plywood. If you plan to level the prepared board base with just plywood or GVL sheets, then they are attached directly to the base surface with self-tapping screws. All resulting seams and cracks around the perimeter must be sealed. Foam is excellent for these purposes. At the end installation work new surface primed. Experts advise not to save money and purchase “Betonokontakt”.
Important point! If the master decides to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathhouse with his own hands or in a bathroom, that is, in those rooms that are most susceptible to moisture, then before leveling it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer on the wooden surface. It can be thick polyethylene, bitumen paper, or roofing felt.
In this case, regardless of the room in which the work is carried out, a layer of waterproofing is required. After this, a reinforcing mesh is applied to it, and sides made of a special tape, which in the language of experts is called damper tape, are installed around the perimeter of the room. Remember we mentioned that the screed should not be monolithic, but floating? This limiter will create the necessary conditions. After this, you can fill in any suitable mixture for the screed. It is best, of course, to take a leveling compound. After drying (this process should take at least two weeks), the surface is primed. At this point, the question “is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor” is considered closed. Now you can. Which, in fact, is the time to start after the primer has dried.
So, on a wooden (photo of the final result below) floor? Yes, just like what everyone is used to. Now, after proper preparation, there will be no problems. The only nuance that you should pay attention to: it is better to buy tile adhesive not ordinary, but more durable, intended for porcelain tiles.
Choose the laying pattern that you like best (traditional, diagonal, brick, etc.) and begin the process. If you select a diagonal, then start from the center. If there is another way, then from the most visible angle, so that the trimming is not noticeable. Adhesive composition applied directly to the base, the rows are laid strictly under level control. Try not to have a very thick layer of glue, as it creates additional stress on an already insufficiently strong base, which is a wooden floor. After installation, the joints are grouted. This can be done a day after the end of the whole process.
What conclusion can be drawn? As we found out, it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. The main thing is to correctly carry out all the necessary preparatory work and create a reliable and even base for the tiles.