What you need to pay attention to when taking measurements before installing the door:
1. Measure the height of the opening in three places: right - middle - left.
2. Measure the width of the doorway in three places: at the bottom - at half the height - at the top.
3. Material and design of walls, floors, on all sides of the doorway.
4. When measuring a doorway, pay attention to the verticality, straightness and perpendicularity of the sides of the opening.
5. The thickness of the walls of the opening if it is necessary to make a frame (measure the minimum and maximum thickness of the wall - pay special attention to the corners of the opening).
6. The presence of embedded bars, thick metal channels etc.
7. The passage of wires and cables in the walls, floors, the proximity of electrical outlets and switches in the area of door movement.
Installation of interior sliding door: requirements for the doorway
1. Before starting to install the interior door, make sure that the opening is formed (i.e., has clear dimensions: height, width and thickness), is decorated in its pure form (plasterboard is cut, there are no protruding bricks, foam concrete, tongue-and-groove slabs or plastered).
https://pandia.ru/text/78/058/images/image002_170.jpg" width="197" height="201 src=">
3. In order for the door to hang evenly and not cling to the floor, before installing it, you need to make sure that the sides of the opening must be parallel and vertical (checked with a plumb line, the deviation is no more than 5 mm per 2 m).
https://pandia.ru/text/78/058/images/image004_84.jpg" width="210" height="176 src=">
5. An interior sliding door can be hung evenly only if the opening has no narrowings, that is, its dimensions on both sides of the wall can differ by no more than 5 mm per side (checked with a tape measure).
https://pandia.ru/text/78/058/images/image006_58.jpg" width="134" height="184 src=">
7. The width of the doorway prepared for the installation of a sliding leaf should be 40 mm less than the width of the interior door, and the height of the doorway should be 20 mm less than the height of the door.
8. The plinth in the area adjacent to the installed frame of the opening must be removed by the Customer at the time of installation. The plinth is installed after the doors are installed. The thickness of the plinth is specified in the Contract; by default, the thickness of the plinth is no more than 20 mm across the floor.
9. Installation of doors is the final stage of repair and is carried out after all wet work and flooring have been completed.
Failure to comply with these requirements for the opening may result in both a deterioration in the quality of installation of the interior door and a complete impossibility of its implementation!
Installation technology for sliding panels
when using the “V-104” mechanism
1. Before installing the sliding door, you must make a mark upwards at a distance of 60 mm from the edge of the doorway - the lower edge of the spacer will be at this height. Using the mark, draw a horizontal line above the doorway and in the direction of sliding the door to the length of the aluminum guide. The length of the aluminum guide on the installed canvas must correspond to the data in Table 1. A wooden beam is used as a spacer coniferous species 50 mm wide, the length of the spacer is equal to the length of the aluminum guide (see table 1).
Table 1.
A - width of the interior door leaf
B - distance from the middle of the holder to the end of the guide
C - distance between holders
D - distance from the middle of the grip to the edge door leaf
L - guide length
X - number of holders
The thickness of the spacer should provide a gap of 5-6 mm between the extreme point of the door leaf plane and the wall (platband or plinth if installed).
When installing an interior door leaf without a protruding “baguette” into the opening without installing a platband and plinth, the thickness of the spacer should be 8 mm;
when installing a door leaf in a “baguette” design in an opening without installing a platband and plinth, the thickness of the spacer is 14 mm;
when installing a door leaf in a “baguette” design or without, with the installation of a standard platband and a plinth 20 mm thick, the thickness of the spacer is 28 mm.
The thickness of the spacer pad is specified depending on the curvature of the wall.
3. Using self-tapping screws 4-5 mm thick and 50-60 mm long along the markings, attach the spacer pad to the wall so that its lower edge runs exactly along the marking line, and the middle of the length of the pad is above the corner of the opening on the rollback side of the door. Please note that when assembling an interior door (this is especially important for sliding wooden doors!): even with uneven wall The spacer should remain straight.
4. In the corner holders (item 1, figure 1) to attach the aluminum guide, drill two ø 4 mm holes and countersink them with a ø 10 mm drill. 
Picture 1.
5. Install holders pos. 1 into the corresponding groove of the aluminum guide at a distance according to table 1.
6. At this stage of door installation, use 3.5x20 mm self-tapping screws to attach the guide with holders to the spacer pad. The upper edge of the holders is attached flush with the upper edge of the spacer (Figure 2). 
Figure 2.
7. Attach 20x40x90 mm bars to the spacer using self-tapping screws 4-5mm thick and 50-60mm long. The bars are attached in the spaces between the holders, and the two outer ones are at the same level with the ends of the aluminum guide.
8. Attach the grips (item 2, figure 1) to the upper end of the door leaf of the interior door using the self-tapping screws included in the delivery kit at a distance D from the edge of the leaf (see Table 1). The semicircular cutouts in the grips should face the wall.
9. Make a longitudinal groove at the lower end of the door leaf (see Figure 2). The groove is made using a manual milling machine, the smoothness of the door movement depends on the accuracy of the groove milling.
10. Assemble the supporting carriages of the mechanism according to Figure 1 and insert them into the aluminum guide.
11. Insert stops with rubber shock absorbers along the edges of the guide.
12. Hang the interior door: place it against the wall under the guide, roll the right carriage to the right grip and, lifting the door, put the cutout of the grip on the adjusting screw. The nuts should be on top of the grip and the head of the screw on the bottom. Repeat this with the other carriage. Hold the bolt and tighten the nuts by hand.
13. The sliding mechanism of wooden doors requires installing a limit pin into a milled groove at the bottom of the door. The stop pin should be located in the center of the groove, ensuring smooth sliding of the door and an even gap between the door and the wall. Mark the transverse location of the limit pin on the floor. Move the door leaf in the opening direction so that the edge of the door is in line with the edge of the opening; the limiting pin must be located inside the milled groove at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the blade. Mark the longitudinal location of the stop pin on the floor. Remove the door from the grips and use self-tapping screws to secure the stop pin along the marks on the floor.
14. Inserting handles into wooden door leaves. For installation on a sliding interior door, mortise “compartment” handles are used. The center of the handle should be at a distance of 900 mm from the bottom of the blade, in the middle of the pillar part of the blade. The insertion of handles is carried out according to the instructions for installing the fittings.
15. Height adjustment of a wooden door. Place the door with the groove on the limit pin and hang it according to point 11. By rotating the adjusting screw (item 7, figure 1), achieve a uniform gap between the door and the floor of 4-6 mm; holding the adjusting screw pos. 7, using a wrench, tighten the nut pos. 3 and locknut pos. 4 (Figure 1).
16. Adjustment of a hung wooden door horizontally. Move the door leaf of the interior door towards the closing direction so that the door covers the opening with a margin of 20 mm on each side. Secure the limiter with the rubber shock absorber of the door's extreme position in the closed state using screw pos. 5 Figure 1. Move the door leaf in the opening direction so that the edge of the door is in line with the edge of the opening. Fix the limiter with the rubber shock absorber of the extreme position of the door in the open state using the screw pos. 5 Figure 1. Using adjusting screws pos. 6 Figure 1 on the limiters with rubber shock absorbers, adjust the force of fixing the door leaf in the extreme positions.
17. Installation of decorative trim. On interior doors, a standard 90 mm wide panel is used as a decorative trim (Figure 2). The overlay is attached using “finishing” nails to previously installed 20x40x90 mm bars (point 6 of these instructions). The faceplate should be 14mm longer than the aluminum guide. Ends sliding mechanism are closed with pieces of additional trim, which are attached to “finishing” nails at the same level as the front decorative overlay.
18. At the request of the customer, the doorway can be decorated using standard technology using platbands and extensions.
Regardless of the purpose of the structure, doors and doorways necessary for their installation are needed to enter it and to communicate between rooms. Russian baths are no exception. And it is unlikely that in the near future humanity will come up with another way to enter, take hygiene procedures and not lose beneficial warmth during repeated movements. The configuration and size of the doorway can be chosen arbitrarily by the owners. However, the high cost of custom-made doors with non-standard dimensions convinces you to buy ready-made designs. This means that the size of the opening in the bathhouse under construction must correspond to the product chosen for the arrangement, so that they do not have to be subsequently adjusted to each other.
In favor of purchasing door blocks made at the factory, not only the outstanding price speaks expressively, the voice of which will turn from a soft whisper to a heart-rending scream when purchasing extensions, seals and fittings.
In case of replacement during the next repair standard size doorway will provide an opportunity to quickly find and buy a similar product. And the installation itself will not require any superhuman effort, special skill, or experience.
Bathhouse owners now have the opportunity to equip their buildings with products from Russian, Belarusian or Ukrainian manufacturers or buy a door structure produced by a Spanish, Italian or French factory.
Regulate the dimensions of the doors and the corresponding dimensions doorways GOST number 6629-88, SNiPs and DINs with numbers from 18100 to 18102. The difference in the width, height of doors and openings is insignificant, since all standards are focused on the average physiological parameters of users, but taking into account the specifics of the country of origin should not be forgotten when opening calculation:
Thickness produced in the CIS door designs designed for traditional wall thickness of 75 cm. Special schemes have been developed to increase and decrease it. If they are not provided by the manufacturer, you will need to purchase and install an additional strip.
note that maximum thickness factory door block 128 mm. If you don’t have the money and the desire to install additional additions on excessively “thick” walls, you can cash in the opening only with front side, and make a slope on the reverse side or install a self-adhesive strip.
In principle, thickness does not affect the choice of door and the calculation of the opening for it. The basic indicators of height and width, the so-called door clearance, are important, based on which the necessary values are calculated.
If there are no overly well-fed people in the owner’s family or among his acquaintances, you should not get carried away with wide bath doors. They will not retain heat in the same way as walls:
If possible, it is advisable to buy a special door made of linden for the steam room, and use its dimensions to calculate the dimensions of the opening with scrupulous accuracy.
In order to calculate the size of doorways, we will use simple arithmetic. Let’s simply denote the height of the door clearance by the letter B, and the width by W. We also need thickness, that is, the size of a quarter of a box beam. Usually its side is 25 or 30 mm.
It is desirable that the doors in the same room are at the same level, for which the floors need to be perfectly leveled. If you plan to place the doors close, do not forget that their arrangement will also require the installation of platbands.
They can be formed during the construction of crowns from logs or timber. It will be necessary to preliminary mark the elements of the log house and make additional grooves for attaching the boxes. After which you will still need to wait the time required for the traditional shrinkage of a wooden structure.
A year and a half post-construction break must be endured in any case. Installation of door blocks in a wooden bathhouse is permissible only after intensive shrinkage has ended.
It is much easier, after taking the required technological break, to cut out the openings with a chainsaw according to precisely calibrated markings. When using this method, in order to prevent the crowns from moving apart, a groove is made along the vertical axis of the wall for the installation of reinforcing beams. The door frame is nailed to it.
Between top line doorway and the frame should definitely be left 3-5 cm, since wooden structure will settle slightly afterwards.
It is absolutely easy to calculate the dimensions of doors and doorways. Specialists who thoroughly know the algorithm for installing door blocks will calculate all the necessary values at the moment. It is somewhat more difficult for inexperienced performers, since they need to understand why this or that gap is needed.
If there is an error in the calculations, the opening in a wooden box can be easily corrected. If we need more, we'll use a chainsaw. But to reduce too much clearance, carpenters recommend installing an additional box - a counter box.
GOST, SNiP: installation
After installation in the opening, door block becomes integral part walls or partitions. Therefore, the main regulatory document that installers should be guided by is the standard numbered 3.03.01*87, which combines the requirements for all types of load-bearing and enclosing structures.
Many people mistakenly believe that there is a certain general document, such as: “GOST Installation of doors.” In fact, a separate standard is provided for the manufacture of each type of block, but in the appendices to them, recommendations for installation are given.
We will introduce you to them, and, using the video in this article, we will give recommendations to those who plan to install doors themselves.
Production of outdoor and internal doors made of wood (see), is regulated by different standards, and they do not contain applications with installation recommendations. But there is routing(STO) number 43.32.10, according to which GOST doors are installed.
So:
GOST and snip for installation
When the door is located at the entrance to the house - that is, in direct contact with the atmosphere, for its comfortable operation, measures must be taken to protect the structure from gusts of wind and water leakage. To do this, a canopy will be installed at the entrance, or a vestibule will be installed, which will serve as a kind of buffer zone.
Whatever you say, the most popular - at least when it comes to residential premises - were and remain. That is why our instructions begin with them.
Usually, entrance structure It can be solid and has a panel or panel construction. The price of the product may depend on this, but not the technology of its installation.
Product installation diagram
In principle, be it entrance doors to an apartment, or in offices - GOST, or rather STO (technological map), provide for a similar procedure for installing them.
And the order is like this:
Let's look at the stages of work in a little more detail. Note that the moisture content of the wood from which any joinery product is made should not exceed 12%.
If you purchased products without front finishing - the so-called a budget option, then with a large share chances are this percentage will be exceeded. Therefore, before installation, the product needs to lie for a day or two in warm room to adapt and dry out.
Installation of SNiP
So:
In multi-apartment city buildings, the height of the doorway is clearly regulated by the relevant GOSTs and SNiPs, but how to determine the dimensions of the doorway if you are building a house yourself and is it really that important? Next, we will analyze the existing standards for doorways, and finally we will talk about how to correctly choose a door block for a specific “hole” in the wall.
General diagram for measuring a standard opening for a single-leaf door.
Indeed, who needs standard sizes of doorways, wouldn’t it be easier to arrange a doorway, the size of which will be exclusive and made specifically to your taste.
The trick is that the standard size is more of a recommendation than a mandatory parameter, but believe me, it’s worth listening to these recommendations and there are several reasons for this:
First of all, remember: there are standards for interior and exterior doors. In the Soviet Union there was GOST 6629-88, which is still alive today, but now DIN 18100, DIN 18101 and DIN 18102 have been added to it, which already takes into account the dimensions of the opening taking into account European requirements, as well as standards for iron doors.
Currently working GOST 6629-88..
If the documents on the doors indicate that they were assembled according to some technical specifications (TU), and not according to generally accepted GOSTs, be careful. Specifications They are developed by the manufacturer themselves and they are only remotely related to standards, therefore, sizes can vary over a fairly wide range.
If you live in an apartment or house with ceilings up to 2.7 m, then there standard height the opening often fluctuates around 2 m, with a tolerance in one direction or another of about 100 mm.
Dimensions of openings in residential premises with high ceilings can reach up to 2.3 m. Anything higher, for example arches, does not fall under the generally accepted standard and belongs to the scope of individual orders.
There is one more nuance. Block houses, that is, brick, cinder block, foam concrete, and so on, are considered stable. Shrinkage in such buildings is minimal and lasts a maximum of a couple of years. This means that you can leave a gap of 10 - 15 mm around the perimeter of the door block and this will be quite enough.
It's a completely different matter wooden houses. For example, in log cabins shrinkage of a house lasts at least 3 years, and if the forest is poorly dried, then shrinkage can take 7–10 years.
Therefore, a gap of at least 30 - 50 mm must be left above the door frame. This gap is filled with foam and closed with platbands, but if it is not there, the frame can become distorted and even crushed.
To select a door, you must first of all focus on the size of the door leaf. If you follow our standards, then the width of the canvas for interior doors starts from 600 mm and ends at 900 mm, graduation occurs in increments of 10 cm.
In addition, narrow doors for small apartments and technical rooms, as a rule, they are installed in bathrooms.
The width of the canvas here is 550 mm and the height is 1900 mm. They are included in the standard, but they are not particularly popular, so the assortment there is “poor”.
Doors with a leaf width of 60–70 cm are usually installed in the kitchen and services; for rooms it is better to choose a leaf with a width of 80–90 cm.
The height of the installed frame with the door leaf and threshold.
Many owners often get burned by imported doors. To tell the truth, the single European standard is a beautiful myth; it practically does not concern doors. In the vastness of the former Soviet Union and the camp of the socialist camp there is more order, here the goods are made according to the above-mentioned GOSTs.
The Germans and Spaniards also adhere to our standards, but the French make doors 10 mm narrower than everyone else’s, that is, 690 mm, 790 mm and 890 mm.
Solid Italian producers They are more oriented towards our market, but they are often counterfeited, so don’t be lazy, take a tape measure and measure the door block, you will agree that it will be a shame to pay a lot of money for a supposedly Italian thing, which then will not fit in or, on the contrary, will “dangle” in the doorway.
A selection of sizes for the most common doorways.
In addition to the height and width of the doorway, you also need to take into account the thickness of the walls and the thickness of the doors themselves. Standard thickness for interior partitions is 75 mm, but if the opening is made in load-bearing wall, then the thickness there can reach half a meter or more.
The maximum thickness of a serial door block is 128 mm. Ideally, the door should be mounted in the center of the opening, but on thick walls it will be necessary to install additional strips on both sides.
As an option, you can install the door block along any edge and cover it with platbands on one side, and instead of extensions, on the other side, arrange slopes and cover the non-joint with a self-adhesive strip.
The width of the installed frame with the door leaf.
Interior door leaves have several thickness gradations:
Every year the size of the opening for the front door moves further and further away from fixed standards. And if the owners of city apartments are forced to adapt to the finished opening, then in private houses each owner has his own views, because often entrance the door is made to specific order and changes extremely rarely.
If we talk about standards, the height here is no different from interior option, that is, from 2000 mm to 2300 mm.
And here minimum width the doorway for the entrance door starts from 900 mm. An exception is made only for wooden canvases, which can be 800 mm.
But entrance doors are not only for apartments or houses; there are also doors for entrances, offices, small shops, etc. In these cases opening width may be unpredictable, but there is a way out.
According to the standard, the minimum for the entrance door you choose cannot be less than 80 cm, the maximum for single-leaf structures is 90 cm.
Equal-sized structures, that is, those doors where both leaves are the same size, are often installed on wide openings administrative buildings, semi-trucks are usually chosen for entrances and private houses, but they also have their own standardization:
(Main sash width + auxiliary sash width)
Double metal doors for an apartment with different doors.
When installing doors there are 3 main questions:
The front door is a reliable barrier to intruders entering the house. An important point is the choice of a lock for such a design, which allows for increased protection. Locks come in different types and classes of resistance to burglary. It is necessary to correctly approach the process of selecting and installing locking products. Installation is not difficult, but follow the instructions.
Installing a suitable lock into a wooden door
Attention! IN country houses Wooden doors are often installed. The question arises, how to embed. The process itself is typical, so it is important to follow the instructions, selecting the appropriate tools for this. The lock itself must fit the door to achieve positive results and longevity.
The first thing you need to do is select the lock itself and the required tools for installation. Among the most necessary are the following:
After the tools are prepared, they begin to work. Installation is considered more difficult than installing an overhead. In the latter case, there is no need to cut a hole of a suitable size, so installing the lock or latch in the door is simple. In any case, it is important to know how to do it correctly and what to consider.
Installed lock with handle in a wooden door
The insertion of a lock of any type into a wooden door may be necessary for various reasons. The most common is the construction of a house and the installation of doors, mechanisms, handles and latches. However, replacing the lock on a wooden door is also common. The reasons are long-term use, breakdown, problems with functioning or hacking. In any of these cases, it becomes necessary to establish mortise lock through a wooden door.
The first stage of installation is the creation of a special groove or hole for the lock body. To do this, you need to make markings to determine at what height to mount the product. Most often, the height reaches 90-100 cm from the floor. But this size varies depending on ease of use. The height is selected for the people who will use the lock or latch and handle.
Creating a groove for the plank using a chisel
Once you have determined the height, marking is done. To do this, the lock is applied to the door with the part that will be mounted in the hole on the door leaf. Using chalk or a pencil, outline the body of the product. The result is a mark that allows you to understand where the locking mechanism will be located.
The hole is cut using a feather drill. In this case, it is worth giving preference to the product that corresponds in width to the thickness of the lock. Drilling a hole is done in different ways. The first method involves carefully and gradually moving the drill inside the door leaf by 1-2 centimeters until the required mark is reached. The second method involves immediately drilling a hole.
The hole itself should be 1-2 mm larger than the width of the lock body. This will ensure unhindered entry of the lock into the created hole. It is recommended to hold the drill perpendicular to the end of the door and parallel to the surface. Align the edges of the hole using a hammer and chisel.
Marking the lock on the end of the door leaf
Important! To hide the lock in the hole, make it 2-3 mm deeper than the width of the case.
Marking the strip and its installation is carried out in the same way. To do this, it is applied to the resulting hole and traced along the contour using a pencil. It is better to knock out along the intended lines using a chisel so as not to spoil the edges of the hole for the lock.
To install it in a wooden door, you should make sure there is a hole for the mechanism of the product. Only after this can you install a lock or latch on the door and begin installing the handle. Installation of the mechanism or cylinder itself requires precise markings. To do this, the lock body is placed opposite the previously obtained groove. The fastening elements are marked on the door leaf with a pencil. After this, the holes are drilled using a drill that matches the diameter.
Attaching a latch to a wooden door
The result is grooves, the edges of which should be carefully leveled. It is best to use a file for these purposes, which will help you quickly deal with the problem. If you additionally plan to install a latch or handle, it is important to know how to properly embed the lock in this case. Installation involves drilling additional holes for the rods and screws that act as fasteners for the latch or handle.
We can assume that preparations for inserting the lock are complete. The lock should be inserted into the prepared grooves and secured using appropriate fasteners. All elements are attached using self-tapping screws and bolts, the need for use additional elements No.
The final stage of the work is to create a hole in the door frame for the normal functioning of the lock, latch or door handle itself. If you omit this moment, the door will not close properly and fit tightly. This should be done only after you have verified that the lock is functioning normally and that there are no problems or jams.
To mark the hole, apply to the tongue or crossbars of the mechanism a small amount of chalk. After this, the door is closed by turning the mechanism. As a result, you can see a chalk mark on the jamb. Here it is necessary to create holes for the crossbars of the mechanism or the tongue of the handle.
The principle of cutting holes is similar to cutting a hole for the lock or latch itself. There are no differences here. You can use a drill or hammer with a chisel, being careful not to remove excess material. If the markings are done correctly, you will end up with holes into which the lock bolts fit without problems. Now attach the locking plate in accordance with the markings. Special screws are used as fasteners. At this point, the installation of the lock is considered complete, and the door is ready for use.
Final stage installation work how to install a lock on a wooden door
Now you know how to insert the lock and handle to it. In general, installation of the mechanism is not difficult and can be done independently. Experts recommend that you carefully read the instructions before installing the lock, latch, handle and other mechanisms. This will allow you to understand how to install the lock and handle with the latch correctly, how to avoid problems and ensure long-term operation. If you have problems, you should contact professionals who will quickly correct the situation, ensuring your home reliable protection from intruders.
A man should be able to do any housework: nail a shelf, fix a faucet, or cut a lock into a door. All this work requires not only skillful hands, but also knowledge. The following will provide instructions on how to fit the lock into the door correctly. This process is not that complicated, but it does require a certain level of preparation that any home owner should have.
A set of necessary elements for inserting a lock
In order to insert the locking element into the door correctly the first time, without damaging the material or deforming the surface, you need to have the necessary set of tools on hand. You cannot do without a drill or screwdriver, which must have a drilling function. This is necessary in order to make a hole in the door. To cut a hole correct form and the desired size, you will need a set of round crown attachments.
They are well suited for drilling wood. You also need to have a hammer and chisel on hand, with which you can easily sand the hole and place the door closing device in it. In order to take the necessary measurements, you will need a tape measure, ruler or centimeter. To note necessary points on the very surface of the door, you can use a simple pencil. To fix the lock, you cannot do without a screwdriver. That's all the basic tools you need to mortise a lock yourself.
Before inserting the closing mechanism, it is necessary to determine its location on the surface of the door. To choose the most convenient position for the lock and handle, you should simply try to open an imaginary door while standing in front of the surface of the door without a lock. At what level the hand is, that’s where you need to make a hole so that opening and closing is simple and comfortable. If there is a child in the family, the lock needs to be installed a little lower so that the child does not experience discomfort when manipulating the lock handle. The place that was determined experimentally must be marked with a pencil directly on the surface of the door. The preparatory work is finished!
The next step in the closure mortising process is to make a hole in the door material. Before drilling, you need to accurately determine the place where the drill bit with the crown should be located. To do this correctly, you need to take the closing mechanism itself and use a tape measure to determine the distance from its visible edge to the hole for the pin, which organizes the entire operation of this device.
It is this distance from the edge of the door that needs to be marked at the height that was previously determined. Once the drilling location has been determined, you need to choose the right bit for the drill.
The main difficulty when choosing a crown for drilling is correct selection its diameter. It should be wide enough to accommodate the closing mechanism, but narrow enough that the hole will not be visible from the outside of the latch. To do this, you need to measure the height of the visible part of the latch and subtract a few centimeters from this distance. With such a hole diameter, the mechanism should go inside the door space, but the hole will not be noticeable under the cover of the lock body.
For those who are afraid of making mistakes in their calculations, there are special crowns that are made for making holes for door locks. Typically, such crowns are sold in a set of 2 instruments of different diameters. After the necessary measurements of the hole diameter have been made, you can begin drilling. There is one trick in the drilling process that allows you to produce high-quality work. To do this, you need to drill not on one side, but on both. First we drill one side to the middle, then the other. This will make the hole as even and smooth as possible.
After the hole on the plane has been cut, you should do the same at the end of the door. The mechanism itself for closing the door will be inserted into this space, so you need to make the hole carefully and carefully. The drill bit must be directed so that it is exactly in the middle of the door end. The size of the crown must be selected according to a principle similar to the process of selecting the diameter of the hole on the surface. In order for the lock insert to be considered complete, you need to make one more small touch. It is necessary to make a small recess so that the latch can be completely hidden at the end. If this is not done, it may cling to the door frame, which will create problems with opening the door.
Then you need to insert the closing mechanism into the hole and circle its entire visible part with a simple pencil. After this, the latch can be pulled out. Now you need to scrape out the void inside the door using a chisel. The recess which should result from this work must be sufficient to accurately accommodate the outer plate. This work must be done as carefully as possible, since too much empty space can damage the door, and the mechanism will wobble. Therefore, it is advisable to have experience working with a chisel.
When all the holes and recesses are ready, you can move on to the final part - installing the lock. It is very important not to make mistakes. At first it may seem that there is no difference between the sides of the locking device. However, if it is equipped with a stopper, then there is this difference. The lock handles most often actually rotate in both directions, but the stopper only works in one direction. Therefore, it is necessary that it be directed towards the end. The stopper can be operated using a key or a separate latch.
Hole for locking tongue in door jamb
The main thing is not to forget that the hole for the latch tongue should also be on the door jamb. To do it correctly, you need to start taking measurements after the lock has been cut in and the door itself has been hung on its hinges. This hole should be where the tongue meets the door frame. The depth of the hole should be no less than the lock tongue. The most convenient way to make a recess in a door jamb is with a chisel.
Every man should know how to fit a lock inside a door himself.
Of course, many would entrust this task to a professional, but it is always more pleasant to do difficult work yourself. Then the result will bring real pleasure, and the person will gain invaluable experience.
You bought, say, a new interior door and decided to assemble the door frame yourself and install this very door, without any experience. Well, it happens that you have to do some things for the first time. The most important thing here is to take your time and be attentive to what you are doing.
When I had to install interior doors in one of the apartments for the first time, I must admit, while sawing the first frame, I made a mistake. As a result, I had to buy a new box set. Since then, I have been very attentive and careful when performing work on assembling and installing doors.
When sawing door frame elements there is no room for error, you need to remember this. As they say, measure twice - cut once!
So, the door was delivered and has been standing in the corridor, perhaps for the second week. There’s nowhere else to put it off and it’s time to get down to business. A reasonable question arises. Where to start?
You should start by marking the place on the door leaf where it will be built-in handle with latch. The door leaf is, in fact, the door itself without additional elements, frames, extensions and trim.
First, decide in which direction the door will open; the position of the bevel of the latch tongue will depend on this. Now you need to determine the height at which the door handle will be located. As a rule, the handle is embedded at a height of 90-100 cm from the floor or threshold. There are, of course, no thresholds in the rooms. But in the bathroom or toilet, they are very possible.
In box with door handle , you will almost certainly find instructions with the dimensions by which you need to mark. Often the dimensions are indicated on the box itself. Ordinary handles are almost always installed in the same pattern. Construction tool stores sell special kits for inserting handles into interior door leaves. The set consists of a feather drill with a diameter of 23 mm. and wood crowns with a diameter of 50-54 mm.
So, mark a distance of 95 cm at the end of the door leaf. Using a square, draw a clear line perpendicular to the end of the door leaf. Mark the middle on it and mark it. You can use any sharp object, an awl, a nail or a self-tapping screw. At this point you will need to drill a hole for the latch. But don't rush, it's not time yet!
Need to continue markings for pen, or speaking professionally, for knoba. To do this, you need to extend the line at the end further onto the canvas itself on both sides. This must be done strictly perpendicular to the door leaf, using a square. It would be useful to remind you that the pencil must be sharpened.
Here you should pay attention to one detail. The handle can be positioned at a distance of 60 or 70 mm. from the edge. This can be done using the adjustable latch length design. Decide which distance suits you best and mark the desired distance on both sides of the canvas on the lines drawn earlier.
Please note that on a blank canvas, that is, one that does not have decorative elements in the form of slats, glass, etc., the distance from the edge where the handle will be embedded is not critical. After all, the canvas is absolutely even and smooth. But the presence of decorative inserts can limit the position of the handle. And if you decide to embed the handle at a distance of 70 mm. from the edge of the door leaf, be sure to make sure that the handle does not block decorative elements. Otherwise, make a mark of 60 mm. from the edge.
Drills first hole for pen, then for latches. It is more comfortable. Firstly, when you start drilling the end, you will know exactly when to stop, and secondly, all the chips when drilling the end will simply fall down, and you will not need to sweep or blow them out with a vacuum cleaner, which is very inconvenient.
So, take a drill, attach a wood bit (50-54 mm) to the chuck and start drilling from one side, having previously marked the marked point. Do not try to drill through the entire canvas “in one go.” Firstly, the depth of the crown itself will not be enough, and secondly, the teeth of the crown will become clogged with sawdust, the crown will get very hot and burn the wood, and the deeper, the stronger. All we needed was a fire!
Having drilled 4-6 mm, without turning off the drill, pull it towards you, removing the crown from drilled hole. There is no need to turn on the reverse and generally make sudden movements. Everything should happen smoothly but confidently.
Clean the teeth of the crown from sawdust. Be careful, it can be very hot! It all depends on the material of the door leaf and the degree of its humidity. The denser the material and the moister, the more the crown heats up. But the crown with blunt, ground teeth heats up the most. Never use this! Buy a new one is my advice.
Having cleaned the teeth of the bit, and allowed it to cool if necessary, immerse it in the same place where it was removed some time ago, and continue this important mechanical operation to obtain the hole we need so much. As I already mentioned, the crown, due to its limited depth, will not allow the canvas to pass through. Having drilled halfway, you should go to the other side and repeat the entire operation again. You need to be careful here. When approaching the middle of the canvas, do not press too hard, let yourself enjoy the last seconds of this exciting process! Otherwise, you risk the bit going through and hitting the door leaf hard with the drill. But we don’t want to scratch it or leave a dent, right?
Let's move on to the next stage. We remove the bit from the drill chuck, not forgetting about its elevated temperature. We clamp a feather drill with a diameter of 23 mm into the chuck. Pay attention to the photo. It shows that the drill is stamped with a size of 25 mm. But rest assured, no deception! I just didn't have a drill required diameter, and I used a 25 mm “perk”, having previously ground its edges with a grinder to the desired diameter. Here's a little trick, take note.
You need to drill strictly perpendicular to the end of the door leaf. At first I thought it was very difficult to control. I mean, perpendicularity. But then I realized that it was easy to do, just by observing how smoothly the drill selects the circle. This is especially noticeable at the beginning of drilling, and having gone a little deeper, you can hardly worry that the drill will deviate from the specified course. But this does not mean at all that you can relax and look not at the drill, but at a cat covered in sawdust passing by.
Well then! The drilling of the holes is completed, now you need to recess the latch bar into the end of the door leaf so that it is “flush” with the plane. Professionals do this using manual milling machine, but not everyone has one, so you’ll have to work with a hammer and chisel.
Insert the latch into the hole and trace it with a sharpened pencil. To ensure that the strip stays in place while tracing, I usually immediately drill holes for the fastening screws and lightly tighten them, fixing the strip. Having traced the bar, remove the latch and take a chisel. Need I say that the chisel should not just be sharp, but very sharp?!
Installing a lock on an interior door will increase the comfort of your stay. This is very convenient as it allows you to restrict access small child into rooms where he could disturb adults or get injured. Therefore, cutting into a lock is a fairly common job that almost any homeowner can do.
When performing work on cutting into a lock, you will need the following tools:
Having a full set of tools will allow you to complete all stages of the work quickly and accurately. If something is missing, it is better to ask friends or acquaintances for a tool than to try to do without them, as this will lead to poor quality work and unsatisfactory appearance.
Usually the handle is located at a height of about a meter from the floor, so it will be convenient for use by people of any height. Therefore, we measure 95 - 100 cm from the bottom edge of the canvas and make a mark. Then, at the selected level, using a square, we mark the centers of future holes. On the end plane the center of the lock will be in the middle, and on the side plane it is necessary to retreat 6 - 10 cm from the edge. This is the place of the future lock and handle.
Drilling holes for the lock starts from the end. A feather drill is installed in the drill and a hole about three centimeters deep is drilled exactly at the marked center. This is the place for the lock tongue.
After this, a core drill with a diameter of 5 centimeters is installed in the drill. Use it to drill holes on the sides. If you are not sure that you will be able to drill the hole horizontally, without distortion, then you need to mark it and drill on both sides. In this case, the drilling depth is equal to half the thickness of the door. If everything is done correctly, you will get a round through hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters, which has a side hole with a diameter of 23 millimeters.
Before installing the lock, you must cut out a recess for the latch. To do this, the lock is inserted into the door and the latch plate is outlined with a pencil. Along this contour, using a chisel and hammer, a recess with a depth of approximately 3 - 5 mm is selected, depending on the thickness of the plate. At the same time, a recess for the tongue is cut out on the door jamb according to the size of the special trim. This is where the lock tongue will go and hold the door closed. When both recesses are ready, the lock and recess are fixed to the jamb using the self-tapping screws that usually come with the kit.
The further process does not cause any difficulties. The handle with screws is put into place first. The screws are unscrewed and the handle is inserted into the lock. The pen has a special rod for this purpose. square section, which passes through the corresponding hole in the lock. After that, a second handle is put on this rod on the other side and secured with screws. Then put on decorative overlays and the pens themselves. This completes the installation process.
After this, all that remains is to remove the debris and tools.
Even if you are confident in your abilities and know how to drill, it is better to work with a core drill from both sides. This will ensure a neat cut and there will be no chips or burrs on the surface of the door that will spoil its appearance.
It is better to drill a recess for the lock in the end of the door after the hole for the handles has been drilled. This way you will be sure that the hole is completely connected to the main one. Otherwise, you may need to drill out a hole for the lock.
When choosing a recess for the lock plate, work must begin with the outline. The entire contour is outlined with gentle blows, and only after this the wood is selected. This will prevent chips and cracks from appearing.
Do not over-tighten the screws on the handles. The fixation should be tight, but not excessive. Otherwise, dents may appear on the surface of the door, spoiling its appearance.
After installation, the question inevitably arises of how to fit a lock into an interior door. The door should close tightly, open easily and fit securely in the opening. All these tasks are easily handled by a lock or latch with a latch.
If possible, it is better to purchase doors with already built-in locks and handles. Otherwise, this issue will have to be resolved by inviting a master or installing locks yourself.
Just like the fittings, the lock should be in harmony with the interior, combined with the texture and color scheme of the decor. This largely depends on the design of the linings and handles.
As for functionality, two types of mechanisms are suitable for interior doors:
Recently, the installation of magnetic door lock. Such a device often eliminates the need to install push- or rotary-type handles.
Using the magnetic mechanism is simple, and installing a magnetic lock with your own hands does not require the use of special tool. The installation of a magnetic device is used in cases where it is necessary to ensure quiet operation and complete absence of the risk of being scratched on the tongue or crossbars.
However, installing a lock on an interior door, depending on its type, has its own characteristics.
The thickness of the embedded door device should be no more than a third of the width of the end. It is recommended to work exclusively with well-sharpened tools. It is not recommended to install the lock at the junction of door bars.
To correctly insert a lock into the door with your own hands, you should prepare the appropriate tool:
The door material can be very different. Solid wood products are the easiest to work with. The fabric is homogeneous, you can assemble the structure yourself and it is impossible to make a mistake with the insertion location. Wood is more difficult to drill, but the likelihood of errors and flaws when working with your own hands is greatly reduced.
MDF doors are the most problematic in this matter. This is due to the fact that it is very important to hit the power beam, which is located by default at a height of one meter from the floor. But it’s easy to remove the old one and install a new one.
It is not recommended to install a mortise lock on PVC doors yourself. Without good skills and professional tool Not sure it's going to happen. The fact is that mistakes are almost impossible to correct.
To do this, use the same tools plus carbon paper or plasticine. With their help, marks of the crossbar are made on the jamb in full closed position doors.
For do-it-yourself installation, there is a special algorithm or operating technology. To do everything correctly, you need to do the work in the following order:
First, the insertion location is marked. This is done using the paper template supplied in the kit. As a rule, the latch is placed at the intersection of the following lines:
You can see the installation in the video:
Then the handle mechanism is inserted and the size of the opening under the lock plate is marked with a pencil. The sample can be made with a chisel. The handle is attached with self-tapping screws.
After this, the parts of the knob are connected with screws and a decorative ring is mounted. Then the door is closed and the position of the strike plate is marked on the jamb. A sample is made on the box for the tongue. A 2 mm cut is made under the rebate strip. Everything is fixed with self-tapping screws.
As you can see, there is nothing supernatural. It is quite possible to install a lock with your own hands if you do everything slowly and carefully. After installation, it makes sense to check the tightness of the fasteners, the fixation of the linings, the handle and the lock body. If all is well, the lock will last a long time.
