The scenery is an important detail of the model. railway. They can be purchased at the store or made by yourself. The big advantage of DIY crafts is realism, as well as saving money. In addition to the trees themselves, a complete landscape requires some shrubs and grass. To make them, you need to prepare the necessary material in advance. Of course, all this can be purchased at a specialized store, but if the model of the railway is large-scale and the number of trees exceeds 100, purchasing them can cost a pretty penny. Moreover, most of the goods presented in the store are distinguished by artificiality, which attracts attention at first sight. Considering all of the above, you can purchase several trees to later compare them with the products self-made and feel the difference specific example, for our part, we will try to make your work as easy as possible by offering detailed instructions. It's just a matter of starting!
The railway will pass through a dense forest, so in total we will need 200 - 300 trees. The layout assumes the presence of mountains, so most specimens will be conifers.
After reading the below step by step description, you can easily make an artificial tree and you will find that it is very, very simple to do. However, given the fact that we have to create an entire forest, we need to prepare in advance for the fact that the procedure will take a lot of time.
First, we need to decide on the dimensions, using real trees as samples. Taking into account that the scale is 1:87, the length of the tall tree will be 30 cm, and the lowest 8 cm. In addition, it will be useful to make several stumps to give our forest realistic features.
Necessary materials:
Required tools:
First of all, rods of the required length are prepared for tree trunks. With the help of a steel knife they are performed very easily, since Cork tree represents a very soft material. Then using sandpaper the rods are shaped into a conical shape, and the remaining dust may be useful later, so it needs to be saved.
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At the second stage, using Carpenter pliers, we cut the wire nails into pieces of the required sizes, after which, using gentle pressure, they are inserted into the wooden workpiece, and glue is poured into the resulting gap.
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We cut the knitting wire into several pieces from 4 to 10 cm long. They will serve as the basis for branches, as well as small trees and shrubs.
We adjust the branches so that they are the same length on all sides. We start with the lower branches, for which we take the longest 10 cm segments. A little higher we make another row of smaller segments, etc. We also crown the crown with a piece of wire.
At the fifth stage, the branches are fixed with glue. Here you can use special samples or use super glue.
At this stage, we are faced with the task of producing a mixture of clay, water, paint, pigment and sawdust. Here you can also use a latex mixture of brown or black color, mixed with sand and sawdust (remaining from us after the production of wooden trunks at the first stage). Shake the resulting solution thoroughly with a wooden stick until thick. The most important thing is that the mixture is not liquid.
Using a brush, apply the resulting mixture to the trunk and branches and let it dry; if necessary, apply several layers.
Using scissors, we make small strips of fibrous material, and then using wood glue we place them on the branches and let them dry thoroughly.
After the workpiece has dried, we use an aerosol to apply dark green or brown paint to the wood.
At this stage, a layer of glue is applied to the fibers, but it is advisable to avoid getting it on the tree trunk. Considering that some of the material is more liquid, it should be carefully scattered over the entire area of the branch. After this, the tree is given a few minutes to dry, and then using a cotton swab, alcohol or gasoline, it is necessary to remove glue and fibers from the trunk, since needles do not grow on it.
Now the tree can be used as decoration. Considering that a living forest is distinguished by its richness of form and content, it is advisable to paint the trees in different shades to avoid monotony.
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It would be useful to create small details, for example, broken branches, dead wood, so that the work looks natural.
Alternative design.
This technique assumes that the branches are located exclusively on the upper part of the tree, by analogy with pine forests. To do this, several pieces of wire are attached to the barrel, which takes a little time. The branches are fixed using quick-acting glue.
Bark paste is made from latex paint with the addition of brown and black pigment, as well as sand and sawdust remaining after the production of the cone. This allows the wood to look natural, reminiscent of wild specimens.
The next step, as in the first case, is attaching the fibrous material and painting it in green color. In this case, the pine should be larger than the spruce, so that the length of the trunks will reach 25 cm.
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Making trees and bushes for dioramas, vignettes and simply stands for work. This is just one line of text, but there are so many questions hidden inside. Especially if the professional experience of the old layout designer is completely absent. But good and often realistic work in terms of making equipment and figures also requires realistic vegetation. Especially if you need to do something on a small scale.
This happened in my case when making one small but rather labor-intensive work using a small copy of a natural landscape as a base.
The idea of doing something relatively large-scale in plot, but small in actual size and always with a textured look of nature, was thought out for a long time. Probably, it was the city dweller’s ineradicable craving for living corners of nature, which we, unfortunately, mostly see only on a TV screen or computer monitor.
In the end, I settled on a scale of 1:72. Inspired by the films “Storm Gates” and “Special Forces”, I decided to make a work on the theme of special operations of federal forces in the North Caucasus in the so-called “Zelenka”. And that’s when questions arose: how to actually make realistic vegetation, that very “green stuff”, on a 72nd scale? And two main ones: what kind of trees need to be made and, most importantly, HOW?
The first question was resolved quite simply. An Internet search yielded a lot useful information on the flora of the Caucasus in general and the North Caucasus in particular (including the Chechen Republic). Let me briefly note that the information itself was very interesting in terms of general development. What a diversity of flora and landscapes it forms in one relatively small region! But I return to the topic of the article.
So, the idea was chosen, information about the flora was found and here.... The main question arises in full force. How to actually make trees on a 72nd scale? I immediately abandoned the idea of using ready-made vegetation from recognized modeling companies, since I wanted to do everything with my own hands. Again I turned to modeling literature and the Internet. Having studied the material found (including thanks for the help to Andrey Yanchik for providing scans of articles by Valery Serdyuk) and the available materials, I began my own experiments with the production deciduous trees. The ideas of recognized modelers using wire are certainly good, but I didn’t really like the results of working with this material. Therefore, I decided to use existing blanks of natural origin with the addition of real building materials, some model special equipment and other available materials. In principle, all materials used are available to every modeler, no matter where he lives. Even branded special equipment can be replaced with publicly available analogues.
To make a model of a birch tree in 72nd scale you will need the following:
1) tools: hand collet mini drill (photo 1), stationery or modeling knife (photo 2), plasticine spatula and a simple flat brush with stiff bristles.
2) materials: tile grout (photo 3), masking tape (photo 4), quick-drying glue (photo 5), dry moss (photo 6), a piece of a natural birch branch of a suitable shape (photo 7), powder imitating foliage ( photo 8), model acrylic paints - black and white (photo 9), green-swamp paint (photo 10), matte artistic varnish with strong hold to protect the surface of the paintings (photo 11).
Instead of branded model powder, you can use available similar materials. For example, finely chopped colored paper or colored ground tea leaves. But I liked the proprietary powder for simulating foliage from Noch more. Instead of matte artistic varnish, you can use PVA glue, but it does not form a shiny film.
So, the tools and materials have been selected. Let's start making a model of the tree. The process itself can be divided into three parts.
Part 1. Let's start with making the barrel.
We sharpen the upper ends of a selected piece of a real birch twig (photo 12). After which, with a pre-prepared narrow tape of paper masking tape carefully wrap the barrel blank in several layers, starting from the bottom (photo 13). Masking tape will serve as a base for applying grout. Don’t forget to make the base of the tree model thicker, with a butt. But be sure to leave a thin petiole about 1 cm long, which will be recessed into the base of your work in order to firmly secure the tree model itself to it (photo 14).
Now we are preparing grout to imitate the bark of a future birch tree. In addition, grout allows you to hide tape marks from masking tape. It is desirable that the grout be finely ground and without lumps. We dilute the grout in a small container (in my case a film can) with white paint (photo 15). Stir until it reaches a creamy consistency and coat the birch trunk blank with a spatula or a brush with stiff bristles (photo 16). There should be no lumps in the mixed grout. Otherwise, their presence will result in lumpy defects on the trunk of the birch model. Let the workpiece dry while hanging by the butt. After the grout has dried, we get a white birch trunk (photo 17).
The next step is to apply black stripes and dots to the workpiece with a thin brush, like on real birch. The future base of the trunk at the butt should be carefully painted in places with diluted marsh-green paint. Because in reality, birch trees are overgrown with small moss at the roots. The barrel blank is ready (photo 18).
Part 2. Now we move on to making branches for our trunk.
To make branches, we use small bushy branches of moss as a base (photo 19). We paint the moss branches with black paint (photo 20). After the paint has dried, coat the fluffy part of the moss branch with the above varnish or PVA glue and sprinkle with pinches of the prepared imitation foliage (photo 21 and photo 22). The output is a birch branch (photo 23). We repeat the described procedure as many times as there are branches needed (photo 24).
Part 3. We assemble the trunk blank and the branch blanks into a single structure.
We carry out the assembly from bottom to top. First, we drill shallow holes in the trunk blank for future branches. But not strictly perpendicular to the trunk, but slightly from top to bottom in relation to the butt. The exception is the holes for securing the uppermost branches at the end of the trunk. They are drilled strictly into the tip of the barrel blank. Then we begin to glue the branch blanks onto a drop of quick-drying glue into the prepared holes (photo 25). Glue the branch, let the glue dry (1-2 minutes), holding the branch in the desired direction. And we repeat this until we use the last branches to form the final upper branches of the birch tree layout.
As a result, we get a model of a birch tree in 72nd scale (photo 26). A machine gunner figurine in 72nd scale has been added to demonstrate the relationship between the size of the birch model and the figurine in 72nd scale.
In principle, the considered method is suitable, with a slight change in technology, both for making models of other deciduous trees on a 72nd scale, and for making models of birch or other deciduous trees on a 35th scale.
To make a model of a deciduous tree (unspecified species) in 72nd scale, you will need the following:
1) tools: hand model file (photo 27), but you can also use a stationery or model knife (photo 2).
2). an aerosol can (since hairspray is sensitive to humidity); purified PVA stationery glue (photo 29); dried formed lump of moss (photo 30); piece of branch natural wood suitable shape and suitable type(photo 31); powder imitating foliage, similar in size to that shown in photo 8; brown gouache paint.
So, let's start making wood.
We saw off or cut off the part required by texture from a pre-prepared suitable branch of a real tree suitable size and shapes. It is better to select a part with small tubercles or remnants of branch branches, or to make a trunk blank from a branch with a branch at the upper end of the future trunk.
After which we proceed to making the crown of our tree model. Formed ball of moss the right size soak in a container with diluted brown gouache. Let the gouache soak into the moss. We take out the lump, squeeze it out of the moisture, forming it more densely, but without overdoing it. Let it dry. Then first pour PVA glue into the center of the lump and carefully insert the stem blank into the lump of moss (photo 32) or wrap the moss around the trunk (if the trunk is in the shape of a flyer). Carefully wrap everything in a paper tube, secure the tube from unfolding, and let the PVA dry. As a result, we get the following (photo 33).
There is a rough layout of a tree with a crown. Now we need to fix the imitation leaves in the resulting crown. To do this, use an aerosol can to fill only the crown with the above-mentioned varnish, or special model glue, or aerosol office glue. We pour it so that the moss is completely saturated, and even more than that, the fixing composition should come out in excess on the moss. And we begin to sprinkle everything with imitation foliage, with the expectation that the powder gets into all the cracks in the future crown. It's better to sprinkle over cardboard box or other wide flat container with small sides. You should not skimp on the powder; anyway, all the excess will fall off on its own and be used for reuse.
We hang the tree sprinkled with imitation leaves on a clothespin with the crown down and let it dry. After drying, we get our model of a deciduous tree with a spherical crown (photo 34). The trees in photo 35, photo 36 and photo 37 were made in a similar way. A 1/72 scale machine gunner figurine has also been added to the photo to visually display the size of the tree layout.
For a more reliable image of the tree, already on the basis of the model, we first make a hole 0.5-1 cm deep to secure the tree. Glue the tree model. Then, from very thin natural twigs, we make several segments about 0.5 cm long. We make cuts at the ends under acute angle. We glue one end tightly without a gap using quick-drying glue to the tree fixed to the base of the model at the junction of the trunk and the base. Cover the second end of the segment with a bark flake carefully removed from a similar thin branch. Then, if desired, we add imitation grass vegetation around the trunk and near the protruding roots. The result is a very reliable model of a tree with roots protruding from the ground (photo 38 and photo 39).
The complete set of all four trees in the finished work can be seen in my work “,” also exhibited at DiShow2009.
Nature is magnificent in its diversity. The methods described above are suitable for producing only part of the species diversity of trees. Therefore, to produce a deciduous tree with an umbrella crown, the following method is proposed, which will require the following:
1) tools: a simple flat brush with hard bristles and a flat brush with soft bristles.
2) materials: a means for fixing imitation leaves, in my case I used artistic varnish (photo 11), but you can also use office purified PVA glue (photo 29), green acrylic paint that matches the color of the imitation foliage; dry inflorescence of decorative garden flower umbrella-shaped (photo 40); powder imitating foliage, similar to that shown in photo 8, but in a suitable shade of color.
And again we start making wood.
First, using a brush with soft bristles, paint the green inflorescence box in the upper part of the dried flower in the desired shade (photo 41). In my case, I used Tamiya acrylic green paint. Let it dry.
Now, using a brush with stiff bristles, apply an adhesive fixing composition to the painted inflorescence boxes, so that there is an excess of it (photo 42) and sprinkle the coated areas with imitation foliage. Let it dry again, securing everything in the same clothespin. The result is a good imitation of a tree with an umbrella crown (photo 43 and photo 43). Again, a 1/72 scale machine gunner figurine was added to show the actual size of the tree layout.
Sometimes you need to make a lot of trees, but not necessarily as detailed as in the methods described above. Or you will be limited in the selection and availability of the above natural materials. For example, moss. Therefore, I will briefly describe four more methods of making trees and one method of making bushes.
First way fast production tree layout.
According to the already classic scheme, described more than once both in the literature and by fellow modelers, we make a model of a tree with a crown from small pieces of foam rubber, painted in the desired color of the foliage. But I personally didn’t really like the foam foliage. Therefore, I used the foam crown only as a base for attaching imitation foliage from Noch to PVA glue (photo 29). The result is a tree like this (photo 45).
The second way to quickly make a tree model.
This method allows you to make a fairly similar poplar model, which will be especially important for dioramas and vignettes with a southern flavor.
To do this, we will prepare and dry a twig of thuja, cypress or other similar coniferous real tree or shrub in advance. We leave with a natural brown color the part of the branch that will be the open part of the trunk of our poplar model. Fill the other part of the branch, which should become the crown, with a fixing compound from an aerosol can using the technology already described above. Sprinkle the flooded areas with imitation foliage. In my case, the same material from Noch. The result is a poplar model like this (photo 46).
The third way to quickly make a tree model.
This method allows you to make a simple model of a tree with a spherical crown. Not the best in appearance, but for novice modelers, for large urban dioramas or in the absence suitable materials as an ersatz replacement for a realistic tree mockup this method can also be applied.
For the trunk, select a piece of a natural tree branch (preferably at least with a flyer at the place where the crown is formed). In the upper part of the future trunk, we form a fluffy, but not transparent, spherical crown from a lump of medical cotton wool. We pre-fix the cotton wool with quick-drying glue to the upper parts of the future trunk. Carefully coat the cotton ball with PVA glue using a flat brush with stiff bristles. The cotton ball will eventually decrease in volume. But it will be covered with a thin film of PVA glue. We dry the workpiece on a clothespin with the future crown down. After the PVA has dried, we paint the surface with model paint with good adhesion in the desired shade of color, taking into account the color of the future foliage imitation. Let the paint dry. Coat the resulting crown ball with a thin layer of stationery purified PVA, previously mixed with paint of the same color as the crown was painted. Then we sprinkle the crown of our model with imitation foliage. In my case it was the same material from Noch. The result is a model of a tree with a spherical crown (photo 47).
The fourth way to quickly make a tree model.
Also not the most successful in appearance, but again by novice modelers, for large urban dioramas or in the absence of suitable materials as an ersatz replacement for a tree model, this method can also be used to make a tree model with a horizontal crown or tall bush.
Need a twig coniferous tree with small needles, a little cotton wool, PVA glue and powder to imitate foliage. To begin with, we cut off the sharp tips of the needles on the branch and clear the future open part of the trunk of our model from the needles. We carefully wrap a small amount of cotton wool around the branch in the place where the future crown will form and fix the cotton wool on PVA. Let the PVA dry. After the PVA has dried, we paint the crown of cotton wool using an airbrush.
After the paint has dried, we literally fill the crown of the model tree from an aerosol can with a fixing compound to secure the imitation foliage and immediately sprinkle it with the imitation foliage. Let it dry again. The result is this model of a tree or tall bush (photo 48).
Let's make a bush.
To make a bush, you can use either dried northern lichen moss (sold in model stores) or dried roots of small plants. In my example, it was moss that was used. If necessary, paint the blank of the future bush in the desired shade of brown or woody color. For example, an airbrush. Let the paint dry.
Then we fill the bush blank from an aerosol can with a fixing compound to secure the imitation foliage and immediately sprinkle it with the imitation foliage. Let it dry again. The result is this bush layout (photo 49).
As a small bonus to the main article about making trees and bushes on the 72nd scale, I will additionally describe my technologies for making a waterfall and rocks on the 72nd scale, which were tested and implemented by me all in the same work “”
DIY rocks on a small scale.
Currently, thanks to railway modellers, the technology of casting rocks from gypsum into a finished form is being actively used. There is no doubt that the technology is convenient, but it has its own specific disadvantages. Firstly, all the rocks come out of the same shape like twin brothers. Secondly, the rocks big size have a fair amount of weight due to the significant amount of gypsum used.
In principle, my version of making rocks ended up being quite simple to make, although it took time and several attempts to work with different materials to develop it.
When I had a question about choosing a material for making a rock base, the first thing I thought about was the material for making the base part of the rock. In the end, the choice settled on foam ceiling panels. They are made of finely inflated foam and allow the base of any height to be made like a sandwich panel. However, polystyrene foam is not a textured material at all for depicting a finished rock. Therefore, for finishing you will need the same universal tile grout (finely ground cement is fine) and construction putty type "Rotband".
Thus, to make a rock in parts necessary materials You only need five components:
First, a cube-shaped blank is glued from polystyrene foam using PVA glue, similar to sandwich panels, to make a rock base. Let the glue dry. If desired, you can use a ready-made cube of monolithic foam with similar characteristics (finely swollen and does not crumble into balls). For greater rigidity, we glue plywood cut along the contour of the base of the rock onto the lower edge of the rock blank.
After that, a rock with a basic rough relief is cut out of the resulting workpiece. In my case, the bed of a stream and a waterfall was additionally cut out in the blank.
So, the basic rock preparation is ready. But it requires bringing the rock to a realistic texture. Therefore, the workpiece must be coated with a layer of 1-2 mm (but without foam peeking out) with grout or cement. Grout or cement should be diluted with a mixture of water and gray or dark gray model or artistic paint. Let the grout on the foam dry. We get a foam base in a hard stone shell.
But even now the foundation does not look very realistically like a rock. Therefore, we apply putty in one or several layers. Coats should be allowed to dry between applications. If necessary, we build up individual sections by reinforcing the base with toothpicks or bamboo kebab sticks. In general, this operation resembles the construction of houses made of monolithic concrete.
We dilute the putty before use in the same way as diluting grout. On the semi-wet putty of the last layer, use a spatula to form large folds and cracks. After the last layer of putty has dried, carefully form thin cracks, small chips, etc. on the workpiece with a sharp tool (for example, a stationery or modeling knife). characteristics appearance real rocks. We get an empty rock in the required scale (photo 50). But a rock without vegetation looks unnatural.
Therefore, we add vegetation (trees and bushes), imitate small grass vegetation with small pieces of moss, special powders or finely ground colored foam rubber glued to a thin layer of PVA (photo 51 and photo 52). Selected areas of the rock are tinted with a brush using grated pastel crayons of the desired shade. When finalizing the base, it is better to use photographs of real rocks with vegetation as a visual reference.
Note: if you make rocks with water (river, stream, waterfall), then you first need to make water, and then only add vegetation.
Waterfall.
I turn to the description of my technology for manufacturing water objects on the 72nd scale. In my case it is a stream with a waterfall. The base of the rock with the bed of the stream and waterfall was already made when making the rock, only the water had to be made. You can, of course, use ready-made model mixtures that imitate water or transparent epoxy. But the question is how to apply them in an even layer on vertical surfaces. The law of gravity has not yet been canceled.
The experience of renovating an apartment turned out to be very useful for me, when I learned in practice more than once all the intricacies of working with construction plumbing transparent silicone. Therefore, I turned to using material that had long been known to me. First, I prepared the bed of the stream with the waterfall, painting the bed with a brush with bright blue Tamiya acrylic paint. Then I used cyacrine to glue pebbles onto the bed of the stream and the ledges of the waterfall to imitate boulders and battlements.
Then, using a construction gun, I carefully squeezed out the transparent plumbing silicone from the tube. Especially carefully where he formed the jets of the waterfall. Made rollers strictly vertical rows. In two layers. The second layer is in the spaces between the rollers of the first layer.
The upper part of the stream and the stream of the waterfall was leveled with an artist's spatula, periodically rubbed with slightly damp soap. In this way we avoid the silicone sticking to the spatula. Again, the silicone is leveled exclusively with light movements from top to bottom. The pool below was first leveled and tamped a little with a finger wrapped in a disposable plastic bag, also slightly rubbed with damp soap. Then, using a spatula without soap, I formed waves in the creek and, very carefully, the breakers in general on the waterfall.
After the silicone had hardened, I painted the entire surface of the “water” using a brush with an artistic transparent semi-gloss varnish (varnish for painting paintings to protect the paint). Varnish is needed for white adhesion to appear. acrylic paint. Because without such a primer, acrylic will not adhere to silicone. I added some blue Star acrylic to the varnish. As a result, I got a shiny “water” surface with an additional transparent pale blue tint in addition to the illumination effect from the bottom painted with bright blue paint. After the varnish has dried, use a brush to form foam. in the right places I applied white artistic acrylic in a gel-like consistency using dotted touches or light streaks. The light film of foam was imitated by light glazing with a brush using white acrylic paint “Stars”. After which I added vegetation to the banks of the stream: imitation moss from finely crushed colored foam rubber glued to PVA, along the banks of the stream with a waterfall and on the teeth. At the end I got this waterfall (photo 53, photo 54).
In conclusion, I would like to express my gratitude to my modeler friends who helped with their comments on the need to refine various elements of the waterfall.
It's interesting to make a big one for children's games volumetric tree from cardboard with your own hands. This can be a product made of corrugated material, compressed paper, fabric, or balloons. We’ll also fantasize about this topic, teach you how to cut out a template and assemble trees that can be placed in the middle of the room. We also recommend that you big tree or game room at home or in kindergarten.
Children can a big tree decorate with leaves and flowers, plant birds on branches and install birdhouses. We'll show you how you can decorate it. There are also decorative samples. They can decorate entrance or interior doors. For such a do-it-yourself three-dimensional cardboard tree, you will need many additional elements.
To create such a branched tree, you will need a piece corrugated cardboard, a simple pencil and large scissors or a sharp knife. You need to divide the sheet into two equal parts. On one side they draw a trunk, a wide stand at the bottom and several branches. All this is cut along the contour with scissors. Then the cut out template must be attached to the second half and outlined with a pencil. The barrel and stand must match exactly. Branches may be different.
In order for a three-dimensional tree to stand stably, you need to draw a line in the middle on one part. The trunk is cut along it from top to center. On the other part, on the contrary, along the drawn line, a cut is made from below to the center. In order for the two parts to connect freely, the cut lines should be equal to the thickness of the cardboard, approximately 0.5 cm.
All that remains is to put the parts together by putting one part on top of the other. From below, all stands must be at the same level so that the product stands firmly and does not wobble. When the main part of the work is prepared, you can start decorating the branches. The guys will do this.
To decorate a three-dimensional cardboard tree with your own hands, you need to cut out a lot of leaves and glue them to the branches. If the tree will be used in a kindergarten or other institutions, and for different cases, then it is better if decorative elements will be removable. Pay attention to the photo below. All the leaves hang on threads, and the lush green crown is generally represented by wide satin ribbons that hang in coils from the ceiling tiles. You can also string all the leaves onto a long rope and hang them on the branches like a garland.
Larger items, such as a birdhouse or an owl perched on a branch, can be secured with staples or paper clips. Then the elements can be easily removed and put in a box for the next holidays.
For such a voluminous tree made of cardboard with your own hands, the template that you see in the photo below is quite simple to build. The tree is made in the same way as the previous tree. But the pattern shows the lines of the central cuts for assembling the structure. This is the general principle for making three-dimensional crafts. After all, in this way you can make a whole forest of spruce and deciduous trees, for example, for board games or for display puppet theater. Children love such entertainment very much. Small products can be made from thick cardboard. The crown can be represented by a simple circle.
If you made such a voluminous tree to decorate a group kindergarten, then you need to cover it with green colored paper, each child can make a Christmas tree toy and hang it on the branches using a paper clip. This is an excellent replacement for store-bought balls and living beauty. Needles will not fall on the floor, and children will learn from childhood to take care of wildlife and do not damage the trees.
To ensure that the tree stands firmly on the floor surface, do not forget to add a stand at the bottom of the template, expanding the trunk at an angle.
In a kindergarten or in an art studio where children are engaged in creativity, you can decorate entrance doors such interesting craft. It's voluminous Blooming tree from cardboard on which bird nests are made from plastic or paper disposable plates. This composition looks very interesting and is easy to make. To make the tree stand out against the background of the white door, first glue the background blue color. This is heaven. Next, the trunk and branches are made from brown compressed paper. The plates are cut in half, you can evenly, more beautifully with notches, as in the photo. These are nests in which little chicks wait for their parents. The picture is very symbolic for the premises of the kindergarten. After all, there, too, children eagerly await their parents. The chicks are made from plastic spoons painted black.
The eyes and beak can be made with applique. Children also make flowers with leaves and place them throughout the tree. There is grass glued to the bottom of the door. To make the lawn with flowers also voluminous, the edges are cut and curled a little with a pencil.
Nowadays, many hand-made artists are fond of quilling. This is curling strips of paper. This method was also used to create such an unusual three-dimensional tree. The craft master class is described below.
This kind of decoration tree, made with your own hands from cardboard, can be placed in the form of a picture on the wall. First, they make a background and glue on a simple, even tree trunk. Grass grows below the tree. It is cut into strips and decorated with large flowers. The free space of the blue sky can be filled with flying birds or butterflies.
A crown made of balls adds volume to the tree itself. different color. If this autumn tree from paper and cardboard, then add to the green balls a small amount of yellow or orange.
You can also decorate the room with a symbolic image of a tree made from branches attached to the wall. They can be laid out in a ladder in increasing order, similar to a Christmas tree, or they can be laid out differently, making the shape of a deciduous tree. Leaves cut out of colored paper are attached to each branch with buttons. In our photo the leaves are yellow, it is clear that an autumn tree is depicted, which means that mushrooms can be placed under it.
The article presents only a few options for making three-dimensional wood for decorating rooms. After looking at the template, you can make a similar version by adding your own creative ideas. Create with your children!
Not long ago I became interested in making models for the railway on a scale of 1:87 BUT
The first experience is visible in the photographs. It looks more like a palm tree...
Some options were more attractive
It looks like a deciduous tree. There are even leaves there.
For production, wire of different diameters is taken. For the trunk 1.5 - 2.5 squares, for winding branches thin.
A thin wire is wound around the trunk, from which branches periodically move away. So little by little there is no thin wire left towards the top and the tree naturally becomes thinner. This technology is best suited for deciduous trees with a gradually thinning trunk.
The pine trunk is made a little differently. The wire is being wound, but the branches move away and come back, and the winding continues. This way you get a uniform pine trunk. You can gradually reduce the amount of thinning wire. You can also wind the branches additionally, regardless of the winding of the trunk. Here is an example of such a winding of a pine tree growing in an open space.
Next, I sprinkle the trunk with fine sand and glue and paint it with acrylic paint.
The needles are formed using "grass" for the "seeder" called gross. Next it is sprinkled with fine peat. This came to me later. Here is an example of such a pine, by the way, finished from the above blank:
I like this option better.
Here with the trailer.
Deciduous trees are additionally sprinkled with small leaves, which are also sold in model stores. For deciduous trees there is various options sprinkles, many are very realistic, but they are not always on sale...
Trees, bushes and flower beds can be crafted different ways. We will tell you about one of them.
This option is the simplest and therefore more often used. The trees are made from stranded copper wire.
The thickness of the wire must be selected so that it matches the thickness of the trunk of future trees.
The next step is to separate the wire into separate branches.
Next, you need to take a suitable piece of polystyrene foam and paint them brown (or any other color, depending on the task).
It will be good if you fix the paint with a layer of varnish, you can even use simple hairspray.
After the paint has dried, you need to coat it with glue. You can use Uranium, Cosmofen, PVA or any other. with whom you have already worked. Here you need to take into account the drying speed of a particular glue.
You can buy foliage for covering trees or shrubs or make it yourself.
You can make your own foliage from an ordinary sponge. To do this, you need to paint the sponge in different shades of green. To make the foliage look natural, you need to paint it chaotically and haphazardly. When painting, water-soluble paints are used.
When the paint dries, you can knead the sponge with your hands, or even in a blender. The main thing is not to overdo it and not grind it into dust.
Now all that remains is to coat the trunks of trees and shrubs with glue and sprinkle with the prepared foliage.
If we want to show autumn, we color our foliage in more red and yellow tones. If we are making a winter layout, we can glue cotton wool and also sprinkle it with soda or semolina.
The article was prepared by the center’s specialists
