The most dangerous disease is garlic rust. The spicy plant garlic is a favorite on our table and garden. You can’t do without it when canning vegetables, cooking various dishes. Thanks to its phytoncidal properties, it also protects other garden crops growing nearby. Unfortunately, it is also susceptible to disease. How to treat garlic seedlings and how to prevent the development of rust, we will consider below.
Planting on your own summer cottage one culture or another, we always dream of good harvest. We try to surround plants with attention and care, we strive to warn in advance possible diseases. When affected by rust, the leaves are the first to suffer. Slightly convex, pale yellowish spots form on the surface of the stems. They look more like rust spots on garlic leaves. After some time, the spots (pustules) darken, acquire a brown tint, and their surface membrane is destroyed. In windy weather, spores inside can spread throughout the entire area, affecting neighboring areas. Thus, garlic rust affects other plants.
This disease can cause significant damage to the crop: garlic loses its foliage (it dries out), the rhizome (bulb) does not receive enough nutrients, does not develop, and there is no need to talk about taste. The causes of rust on garlic lie in fungal spores, which are incredibly tenacious and frost-resistant. If, for example, some remnants from the previous harvest remained, and with the arrival of spring the beds were not properly processed, new plantings may become infected with rust spores. Heat and moisture only contribute to the activation of the disease, and the spores, as mentioned above, are easily transported by air. The disease affects not only onions and garlic, but also most other garden crops.
Based on the fact that this scourge is very common in our open spaces, prevention should be taken care of in advance. The first stage is the processing of cloves for sowing. It will be good if you first place the seed under the rays of the scorching sun. This kind of treatment will be quite long (about 10 hours), the air temperature should be 35-38°C. Garlic cloves can also be treated with Furacilin. To prepare the preparation for spraying, you need to crush and dissolve 10 tablets in 1 liter of water.
A ten-minute immersion of the teeth in a 40% formaldehyde solution diluted with water (1:250) gives a good preventive effect. For this method, the garlic is peeled and placed in a fabric bag. After 10 minutes of exposure in the solution, the bag with the cloves is placed inside a plastic bag for a couple of hours to prevent air from entering. And then ventilate well in a shaded place.
If you already have perennial onions, try to keep your garlic plantings as far away from your onion beds as possible. A preventive measure is also high-quality cleaning of plants, deep digging of the soil where garlic will be planted in the spring. If you notice that rust has already appeared on garlic, all affected leaves should be removed or destroyed (for example, burned) as quickly as possible. A quick reaction at the very beginning of the disease can stop its further development.
If the situation is serious, treatment will be required. chemicals, such as HOM, Ridomil Gold MC 68 WG, Oksikhom, copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, crushed tar soap (dissolved in water). Irrigation should be done weekly. To make Bordeaux mixture (1%) better in contact with the garlic stalks, add a paste (brewed starch with water) to the composition.
Garlic rust – treatment, preventive methods:
A kind of soil protection before sowing the tines will not hurt; the drug Fitosporin-M is excellent for this matter. Whatever chemical treatment you carry out, remember that irrigation should be stopped a month before the harvest day. Many components of chemicals (for example, copper) can cause significant harm to human health.
Garlic rust disease, how to treat it additionally? How to treat garlic against rust? Pay attention to these two fungicides - Alirin-B and Gamair. These drugs showed good results in the fight against another, no less dangerous disease - peronosporosis. As practice has shown, the protective effect of these compounds has a detrimental effect on rust fungus. The bacterial immunomodulator Alirin-B has wide range defeat of multiple fungal manifestations, used for the treatment and protection of various garden crops. The bacterial fungicide Gamair has a similar effect to Alirin-B, and its spectrum of “activity” is also similar.
It is worth mentioning folk methods of combating this scourge. If your garden has been visited by garlic rust disease, folk remedies, such as saline solution, ammonia, tar soap may well help. The use of these components can muffle the manifestation of the disease on initial stage. They give a good complex effect together with other fungicidal drugs. Thus, salt is dissolved in water - 1 glass per bucket of water. The first spots on the leaves are treated with the resulting solution. The sooner you notice them, the better. This treatment should be carried out as often as possible, regularly.
You can spray the leaves and soil around the garlic seedlings with ammonia (3 tablespoons/1 bucket of water). The affected areas, as well as the soil near the plants, are thoroughly treated with grated tar soap dissolved in water. 
Based on the information above, if rust suddenly appears on garlic, you will already know what to treat, but it is better that it avoids your garden.
The main damage to garlic is caused by diseases caused by fungi. The reason for their appearance often lies in violations of agricultural cultivation techniques.
These are just some of the reasons for the development of fungal diseases.
As you know, the quality of the harvest directly depends on the quality of the planting material. And if for sowing the gardener used seeds with own plot or purchased from a random seller, then the closest attention must be paid to storing the harvested crop. It is in the storage facility that the disease manifests itself most actively.
If the air temperature in the room is 18˚C or higher, the fungal spores will become active and the destruction of the bulb will begin.
The defeat begins with the upper covering scales; small gray-black spots form on them - mold. Then the fungal spores penetrate deep into the bulb, and the garlic cloves soften.
Controversy black mold quickly increase their numbers and very quickly populate the entire bulb. This leads to its complete destruction. In addition, neighboring root crops become infected and, if the problem is not detected in time, this threatens the loss of the entire crop.
Green mold(penicillosis) This disease also appears during the storage stage of the crop. Wet spots form on the bottom of the bulb Brown, and depressed yellowish marks appear on the cloves. As the disease progresses, the garlic softens and a light coating appears on it, which subsequently turns green.
The disease progresses inside the bulb and, when neglected, leads to complete destruction of the cloves. The bulb becomes empty from the inside.
To prevent the spread of both types of mold, it is necessary to regularly inspect the crop stored for storage and remove root crops with signs of damage.
The fungus that causes this disease can infect garlic both during its cultivation in the garden and during storage of the crop. During the growing season, the leaves begin to yellow. Appears on root crops and roots white coating. This is a mycelium of white rot. The cloves become watery and quickly rot.
Activation of the fungus is facilitated by lowering the temperature to +10˚С. The pathogen overwinters either in the soil or on root crops.
Bottom rot (fusarium) Fungus that affects root system garlic, called Fisarium. Plant infection occurs both through the soil and through seed material. The first sign of the disease is yellowed leaves, followed by rotting of the roots. A yellow-pink coating appears on root vegetables, and mold can be found between the layers of husk. If the disease is not treated, the plant may die. And elevated air temperatures contribute to the active development of the disease.
Treating the soil with Hom (according to the instructions) will destroy the harmful fungus and protect the crop.
Garlic infection occurs before harvesting, most often during the period of leaf lodging. Excessive soil moisture, sudden cold snap, excess nitrogen fertilizers- These are the main causes of cervical rot.
Garlic begins to soften at the base of the leaf growth and during storage this process continues, infecting neighboring root crops.
To avoid this problem, you must:
False powdery mildew(peronosporosis) On occurrence of this disease garlic reacts by yellowing the tops of the leaves. The development of the plant slows down, the leaves completely turn yellow and dry out.
Most often, the occurrence of peronosporosis is promoted by wet weather - in rainy summers, garlic crops are at increased risk. And in the dry hot weather the causative agent of the disease dies.
The cause of the disease is the affected planting material and pathogens that overwintered in the soil on plant debris. In addition, fungal spores are easily carried by the wind and, in collective gardens, infection can occur even if nothing foreshadowed the appearance of downy mildew on the site.
To prevent the disease, it is necessary to carry out thorough treatment seed material. Warm up in the sun for 1-2 days. It can be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate or the drug “Thiram”, at a concentration of 2-3%. Soaking the seed material in these solutions for thirty minutes will protect the garlic from downy mildew.
Young garlic shoots are treated with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%.
The harvested crop must also be well dried. However, it should be taken into account that exposure to direct sunlight shortens the shelf life of garlic.
This disease is characterized by the appearance of yellow spots on garlic leaves. The dots increase in size and over time cover the entire surface. Damaged leaves die, the plant weakens, which leads to a decrease in the development of garlic heads.
To avoid rust on garlic, use healthy seed. But if signs of the disease appear, then the beds with garlic must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture (1%) or the drug “Fitosporin-M”, at the rate of 15 ml per 10-liter bucket of water.
This is the name of the garlic disease, which is caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas xanthochlora Stapp and Erwinia carotovora Holland. During garlic cultivation, bacteriosis is combined with fungal diseases and harms the plantings. And it fully manifests itself during harvest storage. Defects in the form of grooves and ulcers appear on the garlic, it changes its color - it becomes yellowish.
The cause of bacteriosis may be poor drying of root crops before storage. High humidity And heat in storage can also become factors contributing to the development of the disease.
Creation optimal conditions storing garlic will guarantee the safety of the crop.
Insects are carriers of many diseases. In addition, among them there are many species that themselves are not averse to enjoying garlic juice, despite the piquant taste.
She wakes up in the second half of May and lays eggs at the base of garlic leaves or on the ground, in close proximity to garlic and onion plantings. The hatched larvae penetrate inside the garlic head and eat the young, juicy scales. The plant slows down, then withers and gradually dries out. The root crop itself softens and rots, emitting a very unpleasant odor.
To prevent the harm that onion flies can cause, first of all, you should:
To spray garlic beds against onion flies, you can use the following infusion:
Pour makhorka hot water, add pepper and leave for three days to infuse. For greater efficiency, the container with the contents can be wrapped in something warm. After the time has passed, strain the mixture, increase the volume to 10 l and pour liquid soap. It is used for better adhesion of the solution to the leaves.
The healing procedure should be carried out every 10-14 days, starting from the emergence of seedlings.
This pest prefers dry and warm weather. It overwinters in the ground, and with the onset of warmth it begins to fly. Onion moths lay eggs on garlic beds or between the leaves, at their very base. The first generation of caterpillars appears in May-June. Their vital activity is indicated by longitudinal stripes on the leaves of garlic.
Prevention measures.
You can and should use the same folk remedies against onion moths as against onion flies.
The appearance of stem nematode is accompanied by yellow-brown spots on the leaves. The above-ground part of the plant becomes twisted and deformed.
When infected with a root-knot nematode, new growths (galls) appear on the roots of garlic. Their diameter does not exceed 2 mm. A close inspection of the head of garlic may also reveal light brown oviposition.
Root nematode is more difficult to recognize. It develops in close intertwining with fungal and viral diseases. When garlic is damaged by a root nematode, the following occurs:
To protect garlic from uninvited guests, preventive measures should be taken.
Weeds and seedlings from random crops are most often host plants for nematodes.
Prevention of horse nematode includes rotation of vegetable crops. (Sowing after carrots and beets.)
If affected by root-knot nematode, garlic can be returned to the same bed no earlier than after 5 years.
When planting garlic in the fall, soaking the seed material will protect against stem nematodes.
The effectiveness of these methods is 95-98% and increases the adaptation of the plant after planting.
To avoid the appearance of pests on garlic, you must adhere to the following recommendations.
When thrips appear, you can spray the plants with celandine infusion. Leave 1 kg of dry raw material in 10 liters of water for 2 days.
Root (or onion) mite This pest is widespread everywhere. Damage occurs to a greater extent in storage, but it happens that damage to plants is also caused during the cultivation of garlic on the site. It enters the garden bed along with the planting material.
Penetrating inside the bulb through the bottom, the mite eats away the fleshy scales, which leads to rotting of the root crop.
To avoid introducing insects to the site, it is necessary to purchase healthy planting material. It is also necessary to burn plant residues and ensure the cleanliness of garden tools.
The storage facility where the garlic will overwinter is treated with sulfur dioxide, which is formed when Gamma pellets are burned. Disinfection will be effective if the room is hermetically sealed and the treatment time is 2 days.
To summarize all of the above, we can highlight the basic rules for growing a healthy garlic crop.
Garlic is not a capricious vegetable and its cultivation does not cause much trouble, but in winter the gardener will fully provide himself and his loved ones with a vitamin product and protect against colds.
Rust on garlic- a disease that often affects this plant. By observing certain measures and conditions, you can prevent the occurrence of this disease or completely cure it.
Almost all gardeners grow garlic in their gardens every season. This spicy plant gives benefits and special taste to dishes. The vegetable is added to canned and pickled foods. When grown in a garden bed, it allows you to provide protection for crops that grow next to it. But diseases often damage garlic crops. For example, rust is common.
It is better to prevent diseases that may appear on the plant in advance. Garlic rust first damages the leaves. The stems acquire pustules (small spots) only after a certain period of time. They are convex in shape and pale yellow. Then they begin to darken, becoming brown. The upper frill of the pustules is destroyed. Inside the spots there are spores, which during the wind can spread throughout dacha area, also covering neighboring areas. Therefore, garlic rust is also dangerous because it can affect other crops.
The damage caused by garlic rust is considerable. The leaves dry out completely and lose their attractive appearance. The bulb, which serves as the root system, does not absorb useful microelements, due to which it stops developing.
The taste qualities of such garlic are also lost. The cause of rust formation is the reproduction of frost-resistant fungi in spores. Most often this happens if the beds were not properly processed in the spring. Then bacteria may remain from last season, causing the plant to rust. High humidity and warm weather contribute to the rapid and intensive development of the disease. Rust can damage garlic, onions and others vegetable crops in the garden.
In Russian regions, rust on garlic often appears. Therefore, special precautions can be taken to minimize the risk of a problem occurring. First, you need to carry out special treatment of the cloves before sowing. For these purposes, planting material must be placed under straight lines. Sun rays for a fairly long period of time: approximately ten hours. Temperature readings in this case should be thirty-five to thirty-eight degrees Celsius. It is also good to treat with furatsilin solution. To do this, ten tablets of the drug are dissolved in water (one liter).
Another precaution to prevent garlic from rusting is to prepare a forty percent solution with formaldehyde. This is an excellent disease prevention. To do this, carefully peel the garlic and put it in a tight bag made of fabric material. Ten minutes are allotted for exposure. Then the bag is placed inside a polyethylene bag, preventing air from entering. Next, it is ventilated in a shaded area.
You should not plant perennial onions next to garlic crops. High-quality cleaning of plants is also good prevention. For such purposes, it is necessary to dig up the soil in the spring season before planting garlic. If you observe rust already formed on the leaves, you should immediately destroy them (for example, burn them).
In the event that rust on garlic has managed to spread over a large area of planting, it is necessary to resort to the help of chemicals. These are copper sulfate, HOM, Oxychom, and crushed tar soap. Irrigation is carried out with similar solutions. The procedure should be carried out once a week.
You cannot plant garlic in the same area every year. Also, you should not plant this crop in those beds where plants that were susceptible to rust previously grew. Before planting garlic, the soil needs to be dug deep. The beds must be inspected every week, removing suspicious foliage. Attention should be paid to timely weeding and loosening. Before sowing, garlic cloves must undergo heat treatment.
Despite the many varieties of diseases and pests in garlic, these vegetables are still resistant to them. But, garlic is occasionally affected by certain diseases and overcome by various insect pests.
In this case, weakened plants are often attacked simultaneously by several pathogenic microorganisms or pests. To prevent certain diseases of vegetables and attacks by various pests, before planting in a summer cottage, we disinfect the cloves in warm water(45 - 50 degrees) for 15 minutes.
After this, sprinkle them with chalk at the rate of 20 g per 1 kg of garlic. To prevent the spread of diseases, we immediately destroy all diseased plant specimens. To prevent the appearance of certain diseases and pests, we plant garlic in the same place no earlier than 3 years from the previous planting.
Signs: yellowing, brittle leaves of vegetables, with the appearance of light green spots on them. The causative agent of this disease spreads most actively in damp weather. Control measures: spray garden garlic beds with the microbiological preparation Fitosporin-M (15 ml/10 l of water), 1% solutions of copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate (these measures also help zucchini well) . Warming up the cloves in warm water (50 degrees) before planting for 15 minutes, with further cooling in cold water and drying.
Signs: yellowish streaks appear on the leaves of garlic, which grow as the disease progresses. After a few days, they become dark and the leaves dry out. Control measures: to obtain a good harvest of vegetables, we use high-quality planting material. We treat the beds with Fitosporin-M (15 ml/10 l of water) and 1% copper-containing solutions of copper oxychloride or Bordeaux mixture.
Signs: when storing the harvested crop, the neck of the bulb rots. Over time, the vegetable becomes soft and acquires a fetid odor. Control measures: leave only fully ripened and healthy garlic for the winter.
Signs: Garlic becomes soft and rots during storage. A light coating of fungus is visible on the bottom of the diseased bulb. It is also visible between the scales. Control measures: we use only high-quality planting material.
Before drying the garlic before storage, treat it with Fitosporin-M (1 teaspoon/1 liter of water).
Signs: deepened stripes and ulcers form on the cloves of vegetables, running from the bottom to the top of the clove. The fabrics acquire a pearlescent yellow color. Penicillin fungi actively multiply in the affected areas of the plant.
When storing crops, bacteriosis often affects poorly ripened and under-dried garlic. Control measures: before planting, pickle the cloves for 5 - 10 minutes in a salt solution (3 tbsp/5 l of water), and then in a solution of copper sulfate (1 tsp. l./10 l of water). We remove garlic only when it is fully ripe. During storage, we regularly sort through the crop, removing diseased heads.
Signs: this fungal disease affects the heads during storage. At the same time, watery spots appear on the bottom and outer scales of the bulb. The cloves wither and turn yellow.
Over time, the affected tissues become soft and become covered with a white-green coating. Control measures: we remove the bulbs affected by the disease in a timely manner, since the fungi released from them will infect the rest. We observe normal storage conditions for garlic. Dry the vegetables thoroughly before storing them.
Signs: with this disease, caused by fungi, the leaves turn yellow, starting from the tip, and then the plant dies completely. Control measures: we plant only high-quality planting material at the dacha. Leave only fully ripened garlic for storage.
Signs: In rooms with a temperature of 18 - 25 degrees, black mold appears on garlic. Diseased vegetable heads rot and a black spore mass is released from them. Control measures: we harvest only after the crop has fully ripened. Before storing, dry the plants well in the sun.
Signs: This dangerous disease, caused by a virus, is manifested by the formation of elongated spots on the leaves of garlic. Often the leaves become corrugated. Control measures: for planting we use only high-quality planting material. We regularly control pests.
We burn plant specimens affected by the mosaic. We follow the rules of crop rotation.
Signs: this small pest is very dangerous. Plant specimens damaged by it turn yellow and dry out over time. The head becomes loose and wet. It has a very unpleasant smell.
Over time, the bottom becomes rotten. Control measures: since these vegetable pests overwinter in the soil, we never plant this crop on the same summer cottage for two years in a row. Before planting garlic, we disinfect it by heating the planting material in warm water (50 degrees) for 15 minutes.
We regularly weed the plantings and promptly remove weeds and damaged vegetables. We treat the holes affected by nematodes with the drug Gromoboy. In the fall, we burn all plant remains.
Signs: these vegetable pests penetrate the bulb through its bottom. Gradually it becomes rotten and falls off.
These mites damage the crop stored for storage. Control measures: sprinkle the stored garlic with powdered chalk or aqueous iron phosphate, called vivianite (200 g/70 kg of bulbs). During the growing season, we promptly remove weeds and plant debris. We treat the plantings with acaricides such as Omite (1.5 ml/1 liter of water).
Signs: pest larvae penetrate the head and destroy it. Ultimately, it rots. Control measures: we use high-quality planting material. We isolate garden plantings of garlic from the places where this crop was grown last year. Mulch the rows with peat.
When we detect clutches of eggs of this insect, we treat the vegetable plantings with mixtures of ash and slaked lime (1:1), naphthalene and fine sand (1:10). We process the beds several times every week. We remove damaged plant specimens.
In the fall we carry out deep digging of the soil.
Signs: Pest caterpillars feed on plant tissue. The leaves of affected garlic turn yellow and dry out. Control measures: follow the rules of crop rotation. We regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds.
During the summer of adult pests and the appearance of caterpillars, we treat garden plantings of vegetables with Karbofos (60 g/10 l of water). Regularly receiving good harvests of garlic, every fall I make sure to make a couple or three jars of garlic snacks, which are amazingly good goes a long way in winter.
Diseases appear on garlic both during the growing season and during storage. In the first case, one of the most harmful diseases is rust. Symptoms of this disease may vary depending on the causative agent of the disease.
In addition to garlic, they infect onion crops. The main signs of the onset of rust development when attacked by the first two pathogens are the formation of numerous light spots on the leaves followed by the appearance of brown or light brown urudinopustules (pads). In the latter, spherical or elliptical urediniospores mature.
When the shells of the pustules are destroyed, the spores are carried by the wind, affecting new plants. Garlic leaves turn yellow and dry out prematurely. When growing aerial bulbs (shooting varieties of garlic), similar symptoms appear on the stem.
At the end of the growing season, telopustules appear on the affected parts of plants - black pads with overwintering spores (teliospores). When plants are infected with a fungus, yellow oval or round spots with orange-red pads appear on the leaves and stems (spermogonial and aecial stages of the pathogen ). Uredinio- and teliostages of the fungus are formed on poplar. The harmfulness of rust is expressed in the premature death of leaves (Fig.
4). This leads to less accumulation of plastic substances, as a result of which the bulbs are underdeveloped and their yield is reduced.
Weakened bulbs are more susceptible to rot during storage. The development of the disease is facilitated by the presence of drip moisture (dew, irrigation) and increased air temperature. The main sources of infection are affected plant debris with fungal teliospores and perennial onions with uredini mycelium in the tissues. In the fight against rust, careful cleaning and destruction of all plant residues, plowing the field, spatial isolation between the crops of garlic and onions, and crop rotation with the garlic returning to its original place after 2-3 years are of primary importance. Seed crops can be treated with the fungicide Ridomil Gold MC 68 \L/S, v.g. at the rate of 25 g per 4-5 liters of water per hundred square meters, but no later than 30 days before harvesting. To increase productivity and plant immunity, garlic crops during the growing season are treated with one of the growth regulators: Biocrop, p. (1 l/ha), Vermistim-K, r. (5-8 l/t), Huminate, v.r. (5-7 l/ha, 0.01% aqueous solution is prepared for spraying), etc.
Greetings, dear friends! This rather dangerous disease can affect not only garlic and other bulbous plants, but also many garden crops. It develops on the upper part of plants - stems and leaves. Symptoms may vary slightly.
This is partly because rust is caused by microscopic fungi of three various types: Puccinia porri, Puccinia allii and Melampsora allii. However, all of them can also attack garlic.
For him, the symptoms look something like this: the most common species of Puccinia affected is initial stage diseases when garlic leaves become covered with light yellow, slightly convex round spots; then bright brown-red swellings appear on them, in which fungal spores develop; later the swellings turn black, and if the affected area is large, the leaves dry out; on the stems and leaves of plants infected with the fungus Melampsora allii, light red-orange pads appear on top of yellow spots. The distribution area of this disease is very wide. However, it is most often found in Moldova, Ukraine and Central Asia.
IN central Russia and Moscow region Specifically, garlic is affected somewhat less frequently. The disease, as a rule, does not lead to complete loss of the crop, but losses from it can be quite significant, since premature loss of foliage leads to less accumulation of organic and nutrients. This leads to underdevelopment of the heads and reduced yield.
In addition, the taste properties, as well as keeping quality, sharply decrease and, as a result, garlic loses its commercial quality. Fungal spores are very frost-resistant, so they can overwinter in plant debris in the beds. The mycelium (mycelium) of the fungus may also remain there, which may begin to develop again in the spring.
It is plant residues that are the main source of infection of garlic. Infection can also occur if there is an infected onion field nearby.
After all, do not forget that spores are very easily carried by the wind. strict adherence to the sequence of crop rotation with a minimum time distance of 3–4 years; in crop rotation, predecessors that can be a source of infection, that is, species affected by rust, should be avoided; last year's plant residues should either be removed and burned, or destroyed by deep plowing of the soil in the fall; garlic and onions, especially different ages, must be distributed geographically; Unnecessarily, excessive thickening of both garlic and onion crops should be avoided; During the growing season, weeds should be removed and the soil should be periodically loosened; produce once every 10–12 days preventive examination crops and remove diseased specimens. the crop must be warmed up before storage - 10 hours at +40 °C is quite enough. Good results in the fight against garlic rust chemical treatment cloves and single cloves before planting. In addition to commercially available drugs, a solution of 40 percent formaldehyde at the rate of 40 ml per 120 liters of water is suitable.
Garlic, divided into cloves, is soaked in this solution for 2 hours. To combat the disease that has already appeared on the leaves, Bordeaux mixture with a concentration of 1% is used. For better adhesion with poorly wetted garlic leaves, you can add paste to the solution.
For the same purposes, you can use copper sulfate or a fungicide produced under the name “Hom” - copper oxychloride mixed with liquid tar soap. Spraying should be repeated after 10–12 days, but stopped 3–4 weeks before the expected harvest.
It should be remembered that copper is a heavy metal and its salts are unsafe for humans. To treat plants, you can also use those fungicides that are used to combat peronosporosis. These include the following drugs: 1.
Alirin-B is a healing and immunizing bacterial fungicide with a protective effect. Created on the basis of the bacterial strain B-10 by the Institute of Plant Protection (VIZR). Works against quite a lot of fungal diseases.
It can be used not only to treat crops such as onions and garlic, but also for many other garden plants.
I wish you to bypass your beds. See you again, friends!
Then what to process with? Or maybe he is missing something? How and what to feed? We usually see garlic leaves starting to turn yellow from the tips.
Then this yellowing increases, the development of the plant is accordingly delayed, and the bulbs form smaller. The reasons may be different. Firstly, the leaves of winter garlic turn yellow in early spring, after he gets caught in a hard freeze.
This is one of the reasons. Secondly, this can happen if the bulb is infected with some kind of fungal disease. These are only two reasons. They seem to be obvious; we can ourselves determine the reason for the yellowing of garlic leaves.
In the morning we woke up, and there was frost on the grass and the puddles were covered with thin ice. Or they pulled out an onion and saw that on the bottom, the roots had turned black, and mold had appeared.
If the garlic has been caught by a light frost or there has been a frost, then it is advisable to immediately treat it, spray the leaves with a solution of any stimulant - HB-101, Epin, Zircon and others.
At the very beginning, I said that garlic can turn yellow from fungal diseases. They may be the cause of yellow leaves. It is difficult to treat fusarium and bacterial rot - it is easier to prevent. What to do?
Before planting, the garlic cloves had to be disinfected - soaked in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate, or the drug "Maxim", or the drug "Fitosporin" (15-25 minutes). If you did not do this before planting, then you can water the beds with these solutions for prevention. But sometimes such obvious signs of the cause of yellowing of garlic are not observed.
There were no frosts, the root on the bulb was clean. What's going on? What to do? What to process?
Or maybe you need to feed it?
One of the reasons why leaves turn yellow is a lack of nutrients. Basically, it lacks nitrogen or potassium. What to do? For fertilizing, you can use mineral or organic fertilizers. Carefully loosen the rows.
Make a shallow (1-2 cm) groove. Pour (sow) granular fertilizers into it, for example, urea (carbamide) or some complex mineral fertilizer. Sprinkle the granules with soil.
After this, water the entire bed generously so that the fertilizer dissolves, since any plants absorb nutrients only in dissolved form. After this, you can mulch the wet bed with dry soil or compost so that the soil remains moist for as long as possible. This is one option for using mineral fertilizer in a bed with garlic. The second option.
First dissolve dry mineral fertilizer in water (1 tablespoon of urea or Fertika Lux per 10 liters of water), pour over the garlic - 10 liters of solution per 1 sq. m. m. This option is even preferable, since the liquid fertilizer immediately reaches the roots of the plants. What else can be done? You can do foliar feeding.
It is especially useful for young plants. Can be fed with complex mineral fertilizer or potassium sulfate, which garlic also often lacks. The norm of potassium sulfate is 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water.
Set your sprayer to a fine spray and spray all the garlic leaves generously. This should be done in the evening, in dry, windless weather, so that the droplets nutrient solution fell on the leaves, did not dry out in the wind, but were completely absorbed. From organic fertilizers For feeding, I use an infusion of cut green grass or weeds, to which wood ash is added.
I described in detail how to make such a green fertilizer in the article “Tomatoes - what to feed and what types of fertilizers are available.” A solution of this liquid “green fertilizer” can be used to water the garlic at the root or to do foliar feeding.
There is another reason why the leaves turn yellow. This is a failure to comply with planting deadlines. Beginning gardeners plant garlic early in the fall, for example, in early September.
And it needs to be planted approximately two to three weeks before the onset of persistent cold weather. For Krasnodar region this is November, for the middle zone - the end of September-October. Why is that? Garlic should only have time to take root, but not grow.
If we plant it early in the fall, then in the spring - after the snow melts - they will appear yellow leaves. They just froze.
Pests can cause yellowing of garlic leaves. Examine the plants carefully. You notice small worms at the base of the leaves.
These are onion fly larvae. How to get rid of it? What to process? You can get rid of them using a saline solution. For this we take 200 g table salt, dilute it in 10 liters of water.
We spray with this solution. The worms will disappear. The reason that the garlic leaves have turned yellow may be the onion stem nematode. This is perhaps the biggest nuisance.
There is no use fighting her. Can live in soil, without water or food, for 8-10 years. What does an infected plant look like? The plant begins to wither. The leaves lighten, curl, and the cracked bulb begins to rot. Dig up one head of garlic with yellowed, curled leaves.
If it is damaged by a nematode, then at the bottom of the bulb there will be rotten roots and a white or pinkish coating - these are small worms that can only be seen through a magnifying glass with 10-20x magnification - they are 1.5 mm long and 0.5 mm thick. A white or pinkish coating on the bottom of the bulb is an accumulation of the pest.
What to do? Such plants will have to be destroyed. Next year, plant garlic and onions in another bed. How to treat?
Currently no effective means fighting nematodes. Before planting, it is recommended to soak the garlic cloves in hot (40-45°C) water for at least 2 hours or in a 3% solution of table salt for 25-30 minutes at a temperature of 20-22°C.
Such treatment will not completely destroy the nematode, but will significantly reduce its number and curb the spread of the pest. In the future, be more attentive to the selection of planting material. The nematode loves acidic soils.
Therefore, deoxidize the infected area with lime or dolomite flour. The nematode lives in plant debris, in lumps of earth. In infected areas, sow marigolds and calendula (marigolds).
The fact is that marigolds and calendula attract the nematode with their smell; it follows this smell, sticks to the roots, and the juice of these plants is poisonous to it and it dies. Let’s now summarize, briefly list the reasons why garlic can turn yellow.
All gardeners dream of a good harvest. However, it is not enough to create good conditions for the growth of certain crops, water and feed them on time. It is also important to combat pests, fungi and infectious diseases. Garlic is one of the crops that is most often damaged by insects or infected with unpleasant diseases. Don’t get upset ahead of time, because not every garlic disease causes damage to the crop, and many of them can be successfully combated. Prevention also plays an important role.
Rust is called so because of the manifestation of the disease. It can be detected by leaves that are covered with light yellow or red spots. With serious types of disease, the leaves look “rusty” entirely. The spots are convex in shape and look like red spores on garlic leaves. Subsequently, the leaves turn black and dry out completely.
Rust is a fungal disease. The entire cycle of the appearance and development of the fungus takes place on one plant. It can develop due to an infection that remains in the garden after planting the garlic before. Often the cause of rust can be perennial onions planted next to a bed of garlic.
This disease is very common in middle lane Russia. It is dangerous because it leads to a significant reduction in garlic yield.
Due to the fact that garlic rust is widespread in Russia, it makes sense to think about disease prevention before planting the crop. Before planting, the seed must be heated for about 12 hours in the oven, in the sun or in another way. The air temperature for warming up should be from 35 to 40°C.
Also, before planting, garlic cloves can be disinfected with a formaldehyde solution. Immediately before sowing, the cloves must be peeled and placed in a bag. The solution is prepared as follows: take one part of formaldehyde (40%) to 250 parts of water. Keep the bag of garlic in the solution for 10 minutes. After this, the bag must be placed in an airtight material (tarpaulin, rubber, etc.) for two hours. The last stage of processing is ventilation in the shade.
Also preventive measures can be called removing a bed of garlic on considerable distance from planting perennial onions. After harvesting, you should carefully remove all plant debris from the bed where the garlic will subsequently be planted.
If the disease has already begun to develop in the garden bed, then the first step is to tear off and destroy the affected leaves. If you notice the onset of the disease in a timely manner and remove the causative agent in time, then there is a good chance of stopping the spread of rust.
For more severe cases, you should use chemicals. You can spray the leaves copper sulfate, HOM product, tar soap solution, Bordeaux mixture. A week after the first treatment, spraying should be repeated.
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