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» Training course. Do-it-yourself water heated floor. For Dummies. Do-it-yourself water heated floor in a private house under tiles: calculating the length of pipes How to make a water heated floor

Training course. Do-it-yourself water heated floor. For Dummies. Do-it-yourself water heated floor in a private house under tiles: calculating the length of pipes How to make a water heated floor

Warm floors are no longer a new thing. This technology is used for heating floors in apartments, private houses, offices and various other premises. Their operating principle is simple - they heat the base under your feet, as well as the air in the room, which allows you to warm up any room quite well. They are usually installed in addition to the main heating system. Installing them is not as complicated as it seems, but it is quite a troublesome task. How to make a heated floor correctly? This process will largely depend on what type of system has been chosen for installation.

Now there are three main types of heated floors, which differ in the type of coolant, and also have different technology of arrangement. However, in general they have one main advantage in common - the heating element is installed directly into the floor pie, due to which it is heated. At the same time, the air masses in the room also warm up, but near the floor the air will be warmer, while above this limit, at the level of a person’s head, the air remains slightly cool, which allows you to create an optimal microclimate in the room.

On a note! In certain cases, underfloor heating can completely replace a central heating system. But this is not always possible, and you still shouldn’t give up on basic radiators.

Water based heating

In this case, the coolant is ordinary heated water, which flows inside pipes laid according to a certain pattern and filled with concrete screed. The service life of such a system is approximately 20 years. A fairly reliable and safe option, but it is used either in private homes or in new buildings where it is possible to connect such a floor. In old multi-storey buildings, it will not be possible to connect a water floor without the permission of the management company, since installation will involve connecting it to central system heating that is not designed for additional loads - in other apartments it can become very cold.

The disadvantages of this design may be the likelihood of leaks and the risk of flooding of rooms located below, as well as the tendency of some types of pipeline to corrosion. Installation, of course, is labor-intensive, but it is one of the most economical options floor. This type of heating can be installed at any time. finishing coat. However, if you want to use the capabilities of water-heated floors as efficiently as possible, study the features of different coatings. Find perfect option will help .

Heating with cable

Such floors can be installed in absolutely any room - be it in old or new apartments, houses, offices, etc. This option has become a real salvation for those who, for some reason, cannot install a water-heated floor. The system is quite simple to install and consists of a specially laid electrical cable, located inside the screed. It converts electricity into heat.

Can be used for heating self-regulating and resistive cables . In the latter case, a two-core one is usually used (single-core ones often become sources of radiation harmful to the body, which is why they are not preferred to be used). Self-regulating wires do not have the disadvantages that resistive wires have. Typically, cable flooring is used if the finishing coating is made of tiles or linoleum.

IR floor

This is perhaps the most popular floor heating system, as it does not require pouring a new screed, is easy to install, but is not inferior in quality to other heating options. It is represented by thin mats with carbon strips connected to each other by wires. Such floors heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly (sometimes this function is needed), are very thin, allow you to quickly adjust the heating temperature, are economical in terms of energy consumption, are easy to repair and are completely safe for humans. This system also works thanks to electricity. There is a drawback - a little static and because of this - the attraction of dust to the base. Read more about infrared heated floors depending on the finish coating in separate articles on the portal: under laminate, and under tiles.

Table. Comparison of characteristics of different systems.

CharacteristicWater floorElectric floor
Availability of EMRNoPossibly depending on cable type
Possibility of arrangement in apartment buildingsOnly in new buildings with a separate connectionYes
Quickly manage settingsNoYes
Dependence on heating seasonYes - in apartments and no - in private housesNo
Installation timeLong due to the need to fill the screedShort
Possibility of laying any finishing coatingYesCertain types of coverings cannot be laid over an electric floor
Easy to repairComplex repairIn the case of IR floors - quick repair

Prices for electric heated floor "Teplolux"

electric heated floor teplolux

If you have not yet decided on the type of heated floor, read. There we examined in detail the advantages and disadvantages different materials and compiled a list of recommendations.

Making a warm water floor with your own hands

Let's take a closer look at the work process when installing water floor heating. It includes a number of stages - preparation of the rough base, installation of the system itself, as well as pouring the screed and laying the finishing coating. IN in this case will be considered a budget option creating a heating system.

Warm floors are a serious cost item during renovation, so it is important to accurately calculate how much and what materials will be needed. To ease your labor costs, we have prepared a guide that tells you how to calculate a heated floor - water or electric. Online calculators included. And in the article “” you will find full list everything you might need during installation.

Preparing the base

Let's look at how to make a subfloor for installing a water system based on expanded clay.

Step 1. First of all, the old wooden floor is completely dismantled. Boards and joists are removed. Remnants of bricks and oversized construction debris may be left on the foundation.

Step 2. A laser level is used to determine the height of the final floor. The main guideline for the required level is Entrance door. The marking should be 1.5-2 cm below the threshold.

Step 3. Markings are applied to the walls. The first mark marks the boundary of the screed with the installed heating pipes (the thickness of the screed should not be less than 6 cm thick). The second indicates the thickness of the expanded clay insulation (in this case, the thickness of this layer will be 10 cm).

Step 4. Along the laser level line, marks are applied to the walls along the entire perimeter according to the level of the finished floor.

Step 5. Markings of two other levels are applied to the walls - expanded clay bedding and screed. The reference point in this case is the finished floor mark.

Step 6. The rough concrete floor is covered with sand, which is evenly distributed over it. You can focus on the lower mark.

Step 8

Step 9 Holes in the walls left from the logs are sealed with pieces of brick and cement mortar.

Step 10 Waterproofing is laid on a layer of sand. In this case, it is a thick polyethylene film that is factory-installed on the walls. For convenience, the film is fixed with tape.

Step 11 The installation of beacons begins. For this purpose, high-density foam block cubes are used, on which metal beacons will then be installed. The cubes are placed on polyethylene at a distance of about 1 m from each other. The height of one cube is 9 cm.

Step 12 Metal beacon profiles 1 cm high are installed on the cubes.

Step 13 A cube must be installed at the joints of the beacons. For proper docking, the beacons are trimmed. When docked correctly, the beacons overlap each other in the direction of the future movement of the rule.

Step 14 Beacons are set according to level. Landmark - a line on the wall indicating the height of the screed. To level them, you can use plywood pads.

Step 15 When the beacons are level, they are fixed to the cubes using self-tapping screws.

Step 16 The subfloor should have a slight slope (the difference is up to 5 mm for each meter of base length). If necessary, the cubes can be pressed into the sand to achieve desired result. The operation is carried out along the entire length of the beacons.

Step 17 Additional cubes are installed between the main cubes.

Step 18 Expanded clay is mixed with a small amount cement mixture. This will result in a stronger floor. For a bag of expanded clay, a bucket of sand, 2 kg of cement and about 3 liters of water are used.

Step 19 The prepared expanded clay is laid out on the base and leveled. Backfilling is done starting from the far corner of the room. There should be about 1.5 cm of free space left to the top level of the beacons.

Step 20. The expanded clay layer is covered with cement mortar. The solution is leveled with a trowel over the entire surface.

Step 21 The screed is aligned using the beacon rule. Ideal evenness may not be achieved. To make it easy to remove the beacons from the screed, their surface is not covered.

Step 22 After two days, when the screed has dried, the beacons are removed. To do this, the screws securing them are unscrewed. Wooden linings are removed along with the beacons.

Step 23 After this, the resulting cracks are cleared of debris and sealed with cement mortar.

Laying the pipe system and connecting

After preparation, the installation of the heating system itself begins.

Step 1. In this case, the existing heating system will be retained at the base gas boiler. The battery is powered by a supply circuit located on the second floor. The water leaving the radiator is directed to the return circuit, which is located in the basement. The warm floor will be connected to the second output of the battery and to the return circuit. Taps will be installed to turn off the radiator and heated floor. At the entrance to the return circuit there will be installed circulation pump.

Step 2. The radiator is equipped with the necessary fittings. These are connectors and pipes. Plumbing flax and sealant are used to seal the connection.

Step 3. This is what the finished battery outputs will look like. One of them will be used to connect the heated floor.

Step 4. Before further installation of pipes, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the room (we have already discussed its choice). She sticks to the walls using glue.

Step 5. On rough screed multifoil is laid - a special insulation. Individual strips of material are fixed to each other using tape.

Step 6. A reinforcing mesh with 10x10 cm cells is placed on top of the foil. Individual pieces are overlapped by 1-2 cells. The mesh is connected to each other using wire.

Step 7 The pipe leading to the return line is installed and connected.

Step 8 A water floor pipe with a cross-section of 20 mm is mounted to the other exit from the battery. You can put a piece of protective corrugation on the initial section of the pipe.

Step 9 The pipe is laid on the floor and fixed to the reinforcing mesh using plastic clamps. When laying, it is important to ensure that there are no kinks in the pipe. To form the elbows, you can use a hairdryer to heat the pipe. The distance in the circuit between adjacent pipes should be about 20 cm in this case.

Step 10 The heated floor pipe is laid in a snake pattern.

Step 11 The ends of the return pipe and the heated floor are directed into metal pipes leading to the basement. Voids can be sealed with foam.

Step 12 Sections of the metal mesh that rise above the floor level are fixed to the base of the floor using dowels and metal plates.

Step 13 Further work will be carried out in the basement. A circulation pump is being installed. It connects to the return pipe. Two taps are also installed in the system. One of them will block natural circulation. The lower valve completely closes the entrance to the return pipe.

Step 14 The control unit is assembled and all pipes are connected. In mode natural circulation water flows through the heated floor pipe into the return line with both taps open. If you turn off the top tap, water from the heated floor will move through an additional pipe towards the pump - this is a mode for quickly warming up the floor. If bottom tap When the pump is turned off, it is closed, then the heated floor will be completely turned off.

Filling the screed

The final stage of installing a water floor is pouring the screed and laying the floor covering.

Step 1. To make the screed even, metal beacons are installed. They are located on pieces of concrete.

Step 2. Pieces of concrete are fixed to the base using cement mortar.

Step 3. The beacons are fixed to the concrete using self-tapping screws in pre-made holes. All of them must be strictly level.

Advice! It is better to start installing the first beacons from the side of the door. This will allow you to more correctly select their height relative to the doorway.

Step 4. The concrete solution is prepared according to exact proportions.

Step 5. The concrete is evenly distributed over the prepared floor.

Important! At the time of laying the screed, the floor pipes must be filled with water.

Step 6. The concrete solution is leveled along the beacons using a rule.

Step 7 The screed is dried for 28 days. The floor is covered with a finishing coating.

Video - Installation of a water floor

Video - Installation of infrared floor heating

The complexity and entire process of making a heated floor will depend on which heating option is chosen. A water floor is perhaps the most best option for arranging base heating in a private house or new building. For those who don’t want to bother with screeds, we can recommend using infrared floors.

The most common way to implement underfloor heating systems is monolithic concrete floors, made by the so-called “wet” method. The floor structure is “ layered cake” from various materials (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1 Laying underfloor heating loops with a single coil

System installation heated floors begins with preparing the surface for installation of a heated floor. The surface must be level, unevenness in area should not exceed ±5 mm. Irregularities and protrusions of no more than 10 mm are allowed. If necessary, the surface is leveled with an additional screed. Failure to comply with this requirement may lead to air-filling of the pipes. If there is high humidity in the room below, it is advisable to install waterproofing (polyethylene film).

After leveling the surface, it is necessary to lay a damper tape at least 5 mm wide along the side walls to compensate for the thermal expansion of the heated floor monolith. It should be laid along all walls framing the room, racks, door frames, bends, etc. The tape should protrude above the planned height of the floor structure by at least 20 mm.

After which a layer of thermal insulation is laid to prevent heat leakage into the lower rooms. It is recommended to use foam materials (polystyrene, polyethylene, etc.) with a density of at least 25 kg/m 3 as thermal insulation. If it is impossible to lay thick layers of thermal insulation, then in this case foil thermal insulation materials with a thickness of 5 or 10 mm are used. It is important that foil thermal insulation materials have protective film on aluminum. Otherwise, the alkaline environment of the concrete screed destroys the foil layer within 3–5 weeks.

The pipes are laid out with a certain step and in the desired configuration. It is recommended that the supply pipeline should be laid closer to the outer walls.

When laying a “single coil” (Fig. 2), the temperature distribution of the floor surface is not uniform.


Fig.2 Laying underfloor heating loops with a single coil

When laying in spirals (Fig. 3), pipes with in opposite directions flows alternate, with the hottest section of the pipe adjacent to the coldest. This leads to an even temperature distribution over the floor surface.


Fig.3 Laying heated floor loops in a spiral.

The pipe is laid according to the markings applied to the heat insulator, with anchor brackets every 0.3 - 0.5 m, or between special protrusions of the heat insulator. The laying step is calculated and ranges from 10 to 30 cm, but should not exceed 30 cm, otherwise uneven heating of the floor surface will occur with the appearance of warm and cold stripes. Areas near the exterior walls of a building are called boundary zones. Here it is recommended to reduce the pipe laying step in order to compensate for heat loss through the walls. The length of one circuit (loop) of a heated floor should not exceed 100–120 m, the pressure loss per loop (including fittings) should not exceed 20 kPa; the minimum speed of water movement is 0.2 m/s (to avoid the formation of air pockets in the system).

After laying out the loops, immediately before pouring the screed, the system is pressure tested at a pressure of 1.5 of the working pressure, but not less than 0.3 MPa.

When pouring cement-sand screed, the pipe must be under water pressure of 0.3 MPa at room temperature. The minimum pouring height above the pipe surface must be at least 3 cm (the maximum recommended height, according to European standards, is 7 cm). The cement-sand mixture must be at least grade 400 with a plasticizer. After pouring, it is recommended to “vibrate” the screed. At length monolithic slab more than 8 m or an area greater than 40 m 2 it is necessary to provide seams between the slabs minimum thickness 5 mm, to compensate for the thermal expansion of the monolith. When pipes pass through seams, they must have a protective sheath of at least 1 m in length.

The system is started only after the concrete has completely dried (approximately 4 days per 1 cm of screed thickness). The water temperature when starting the system should be room temperature. After starting the system, increase the supply water temperature daily by 5°C to operating temperature.

Basic temperature requirements for underfloor heating systems

    Recommended average temperature floor surface should not be higher (according to SNiP 41-01-2003, clause 6.5.12):
  • 26°C for rooms with constant occupancy
  • 31°C for rooms with temporary occupancy and bypass paths of swimming pools
  • The temperature of the floor surface along the axis of the heating element in children's institutions, residential buildings and swimming pools should not exceed 35°C

According to SP 41-102-98, the temperature difference in certain areas of the floor should not exceed 10°C (optimally 5°C). The coolant temperature in the underfloor heating system should not exceed 55°C (SP 41-102-98 clause 3.5 a).

Set of water heated floors for 15 m 2

Heated floor kit for heating rooms with an area of ​​15-20 m 2 with mixing unit with manual adjustment of the coolant temperature based on the mixing and separating valve MIX 03. The operating temperature of the coolant is adjusted manually by turning the valve handle.

Name vendor code Qty. Price
MP pipe Valtec16(2,0) 100 m3 580
PlasticizerSilar (10l)2x10 l1 611
Damper tapeEnergoflex Super 10/0.1-252x10 m1 316
Thermal insulationTP - 5/1.2-1618 m22 648
MIX 03 ¾”1 1 400
Circulation pumpUPC 25-401 2 715
Nipple adapterVT 580 1”x3/4”1 56.6
Nipple adapterVT 580 1”x1/2”1 56.6
Ball valveVT 218 ½”1 93.4
VTm 302 16x ½”2 135.4
Ball valveVT 219 ½”1 93.4
TeeVT 130 ½”1 63.0
BarrelVT 652 ½”x601 63.0
H-B adapterVT 581 ¾”x ½”1 30.1
Total

13 861.5

Set of water heated floors for 15 m2 (with reinforced thermal insulation, for unheated lower rooms)

Heated floor kit for heating rooms with an area of ​​15-20 m2 with a mixing unit with manual adjustment of the coolant temperature based on the mixing and separating valve MIX 03. The operating temperature of the coolant is adjusted manually by turning the valve handle. Reinforced thermal insulation allows you to install a heated floor system over unheated rooms.

When laying a heated floor loop in a spiral (screed thickness 3 cm with a floor covering made of ceramic tiles) with a step of 15-20 cm and a design coolant temperature of 30°C - floor surface temperature 24-26°C, coolant flow rate of about 0.2 m 3 /h, flow speed 0.2-0.5 m/s, pressure loss in the loop approximately 5 kPa (0.5 m).

Accurate calculation of thermal and hydraulic parameters can be carried out using free program calculations for underfloor heating Valtec Prog.

Name vendor code Qty. Price
MP pipe Valtec16(2,0) 100 m3 580
PlasticizerSilar (10l)2x10 l1 611
Damper tapeEnergoflex Super 10/0.1-252x10 m1 316
Thermal insulationTP - 25/1.0-53x5 m 24 281
Three way mixing valveMIX 03 ¾”1 1 400
Circulation pumpUPC 25-401 2 715
Nipple adapterVT 580 1”x3/4”1 56.6
Nipple adapterVT 580 1”x1/2”1 56.6
Ball valveVT 218 ½”1 93.4
Straight connector with transition to internal threadVTm 302 16x ½”2 135.4
Ball valveVT 219 ½”1 93.4
TeeVT 130 ½”1 63.0
BarrelVT 652 ½”x601 63.0
H-B adapterVT 581 ¾”x ½”1 30.1
Total

15 494.5

Set of water heated floors up to 30 m 2 - 1

Heated floor kit for heating rooms with an area of ​​30-40 m2 with a mixing unit with manual adjustment of the coolant temperature based on the mixing and separating valve MIX 03. The operating temperature of the coolant is adjusted manually by turning the valve handle. To ensure equal coolant flow in the heated floor loops, their length and laying pattern must be the same.

When laying a heated floor loop in a spiral (screed thickness 3 cm with a ceramic tile floor covering) in increments of 15-20 cm and an estimated coolant temperature of 30°C, the floor surface temperature is 24-26°C, coolant flow is about 0.2 m 3 / h, flow speed 0.2-0.5 m/s, pressure loss in the loop approximately 5 kPa (0.5 m).

Accurate calculations of thermal and hydraulic parameters can be carried out using the free underfloor heating calculation program Valtec Prog.

Name vendor code Qty. Price
MP pipe Valtec16(2,0) 200 m7 160
PlasticizerSilar (10l)4x10 l3 222
Damper tapeEnergoflex Super 10/0.1-253x10 m1 974
Thermal insulationTP - 5/1.2-162x18 m 25 296
Three way mixing valveMIX 03 ¾”1 1 400
Nipple adapterVT 580 1”x3/4”2 113.2
NippleVT 582 3/4”1 30.8
TeeVT 130 ¾”1 96.7
SquareVT 93 ¾”1 104.9
Direct driveVT 341 ¾”1 104.9
Circulation pumpUPC 25-401 2 715
Ball valveVT 217 ¾”2 266.4
CollectorVT 500n 2 outlets x ¾” x ½”2 320
CorkVT 583 ¾”2 61.6
Fitting for MP pipeVT 710 16(2.0)4 247.6
Fitting for MP pipeVTm 301 20 x ¾”1 92.4
Fitting for MP pipeVTm 302 20 x ¾”1 101.0
Total

23 306.5

Set of water heated floors up to 30 m 2 - 2

Heated floor kit for heating rooms with an area of ​​30-40 m2 with a mixing unit with manual adjustment of the coolant temperature based on the mixing and separating valve MIX 03. The operating temperature of the coolant is adjusted manually by turning the valve handle. To facilitate air release, the system is supplemented with automatic air vents and drain valves. To ensure equal coolant flow in the heated floor loops, their length and laying pattern must be the same. Reinforced thermal insulation allows you to install a heated floor system over unheated rooms.

When laying a heated floor loop in a spiral (screed thickness 3 cm with a ceramic tile floor covering) in increments of 15-20 cm and an estimated coolant temperature of 30°C, the floor surface temperature is 24-26°C, coolant flow is about 0.2 m 3 / h, flow speed 0.2-0.5 m/s, pressure loss in the loop approximately 5 kPa (0.5 m).

Accurate calculations of thermal and hydraulic parameters can be carried out using the free underfloor heating calculation program Valtec Prog.

Name vendor code Qty. Price
MP pipe Valtec16(2,0) 200 m7 160
PlasticizerSilar (10l)4x10 l3 222
Damper tapeEnergoflex Super 10/0.1-253x10 m1 974
Thermal insulationTP - 25/1.0-56x5 m 28 562
Three way mixing valveMIX 03 ¾”1 1 400
Nipple adapterVT 580 1”x3/4”2 113.2
NippleVT 582 3/4”1 30.8
TeeVT 130 ¾”1 96.7
SquareVT 93 ¾”1 104.9
Direct driveVT 341 ¾”1 104.9
Circulation pumpUPC 25-401 2 715
Ball valveVT 217 ¾”2 266.4
CollectorVT 500n 2 outlets x ¾” x ½”2 320
Fitting for MP pipeVT 710 16(2.0)4 247.6
Fitting for MP pipeVTm 302 20 x ¾”1 101
Fitting for MP pipeVTm 301 20 x ¾”1 92.4
VT 530 3/4”x 1/2”x3/8”2 238.4
Shut-off valveVT 539 3/8"2 97.4
Adapter V-NVT 592 1/2”x3/8”2 49.4
VT 502 1/2”2 320.8
Drain tapVT 430 1/2”2 209.8
Total

27 446.7

Set of water heated floors up to 60 m 2 - 1

Heated floor kit for heating rooms with an area of ​​60-80 m2 with a mixing unit with manual adjustment of the coolant temperature based on the mixing and separating valve MIX 03. The operating temperature of the coolant is adjusted manually by turning the valve handle. To facilitate air release, the system is supplemented with automatic air vents and drain valves. To ensure equal coolant flow in the underfloor heating loops (hydraulic balancing of the loops), manifolds with integrated shut-off and control valves are used. Reinforced thermal insulation allows you to install a heated floor system over unheated rooms.

When laying a heated floor loop in a spiral (screed thickness 3 cm with a ceramic tile floor covering) in increments of 15-20 cm and an estimated coolant temperature of 30°C, the floor surface temperature is 24-26°C, coolant flow is about 0.2 m 3 / h, flow speed 0.2-0.5 m/s, pressure loss in the loop approximately 5 kPa (0.5 m).

Accurate calculations of thermal and hydraulic parameters can be carried out using the free underfloor heating calculation program Valtec Prog.

Name vendor code Qty. Price
MP pipe Valtec16(2,0) 400 m14 320
PlasticizerSilar (10l)8x10 l6 444
Damper tapeEnergoflex Super 10/0.1-256x10 m3 948
Thermal insulationTP - 25/1.0-512x5 m 217 124
Three way mixing valveMIX 03 ¾”1 1 400
Nipple adapterVT 580 1”x3/4”2 113.2
NippleVT 582 3/4”1 30.8
TeeVT 130 ¾”1 96.7
SquareVT 93 ¾”1 104.9
Direct driveVT 341 ¾”1 104.9
Circulation pumpUPC 25-401 2 715
Ball valveVT 217 ¾”2 266.4
CollectorVT 560n 4 outlets x ¾” x ½”1 632.9
CollectorVT 580n 2 outlets x ¾” x ½”2 741.8
Fitting for MP pipeVT 710 16(2.0)8 495.2
Fitting for MP pipeVTm 302 20 x ¾”1 101
Fitting for MP pipeVTm 301 20 x ¾”1 92.4
Manifold tee for mounting an air vent and drain valveVT 530 3/4”x 1/2”x3/8”2 238.4
Shut-off valveVT 539 3/8"2 97.4
Adapter V-NVT 592 1/2”x3/8”2 49.4
Automatic air ventVT 502 1/2”2 320.8
Drain tapVT 430 1/2”2 209.8
Bracket for manifoldVT 130 3/4”2 266.4
Total


Set of water heated floors up to 60 m 2 - 2. (automatic temperature control)

Heated floor kit for heating rooms with an area of ​​60-80 m2 with a mixing unit with manual adjustment of the coolant temperature based on the mixing and separating valve MIX 03. The operating temperature of the coolant is adjusted automatically by the valve servomotor, depending on the value of the coolant temperature set on the scale of the overhead thermostat. To facilitate air release, the system is supplemented with automatic air vents and drain valves. To ensure equal coolant flow in the underfloor heating loops (hydraulic balancing of the loops), manifolds with integrated shut-off and control valves are used. Reinforced thermal insulation allows you to install a heated floor system over unheated rooms.

When laying a heated floor loop in a spiral (screed thickness 3 cm with a ceramic tile floor covering) in increments of 15-20 cm and an estimated coolant temperature of 30°C, the floor surface temperature is 24-26°C, coolant flow is about 0.2 m 3 / h, flow speed 0.2-0.5 m/s, pressure loss in the loop approximately 5 kPa (0.5 m).

Accurate calculations of thermal and hydraulic parameters can be carried out using the free underfloor heating calculation program Valtec Prog.

Name vendor code Qty. Price
MP pipe Valtec16(2,0) 400 m14 320
PlasticizerSilar (10l)8x10 l6 444
Damper tapeEnergoflex Super 10/0.1-256x10 m3 948
Thermal insulationTP - 25/1.0-512x5 m217 124
Three way mixing valveMIX 03 ¾”1 1 400
Nipple adapterVT 580 1”x3/4”2 113.2
NippleVT 582 3/4”1 30.8
TeeVT 130 ¾”1 96.7
SquareVT 93 ¾”1 104.9
Direct driveVT 341 ¾”1 104.9
Circulation pumpUPC 25-401 2 715
Ball valveVT 217 ¾”2 266.4
CollectorVT 560n 4 outlets x ¾” x ½”1 632.9
CollectorVT 580n 2 outlets x ¾” x ½”2 741.8
Fitting for MP pipeVT 710 16(2.0)8 495.2
Fitting for MP pipeVTm 302 20 x ¾”1 101
Fitting for MP pipeVTm 301 20 x ¾”1 92.4
Manifold tee for mounting an air vent and drain valveVT 530 3/4”x 1/2”x3/8”2 238.4
Shut-off valveVT 539 3/8"2 97.4
Adapter V-NVT 592 1/2”x3/8”2 49.4
Automatic air ventVT 502 1/2”2 320.8
Drain tapVT 430 1/2”2 209.8
NR 2301 3 919
EM 5481 550.3
Bracket for manifoldVT 130 3/4”2 266.4
Total


Set of water heated floors up to 60 m 2 - 3. (automatic temperature control)

Heated floor kit for heating rooms with an area of ​​60-80 m2 with a mixing unit with manual adjustment of the coolant temperature based on the mixing and separating valve MIX 03. The operating temperature of the coolant is adjusted automatically by the valve servomotor, depending on the value of the coolant temperature set on the scale of the overhead thermostat. The system uses a manifold block with control valves with flow meters (optional) to ensure equal coolant flow in the underfloor heating loops (hydraulic balancing of the loops). The use of a manifold adjustable bypass allows you to redirect the coolant flow from the supply to the return manifold in the case when the flow through the manifold loops decreases below the value set on the bypass bypass valve. This allows maintaining hydraulic characteristics collector system regardless of the influence of the collector loop controls (manual, thermostatic valves or servos).

When laying a heated floor loop in a spiral (screed thickness 3 cm with a ceramic tile floor covering) in increments of 15-20 cm and an estimated coolant temperature of 30°C, the floor surface temperature is 24-26°C, coolant flow is about 0.2 m 3 / h, flow speed 0.2-0.5 m/s, pressure loss in the loop approximately 5 kPa (0.5 m).

Accurate calculations of thermal and hydraulic parameters can be carried out using the free underfloor heating calculation program Valtec Prog.

Name vendor code Qty. Price
MP pipe Valtec16(2,0) 400 m14 320
PlasticizerSilar (10l)8x10 l6 444
Damper tapeEnergoflex Super 10/0.1-256x10 m3 948
Thermal insulationTP - 25/1.0-512x5 m 217 124
Three way mixing valveMIX 03 ¾”1 1 400
Straight line V-NVT 341 1”1 189.4
Circulation pumpUPC 25-401 2 715
Ball valveVT 219 1”3 733.5
Collector block 1**VT 594 MNX 4x 1”1 4 036.1
Collector block 2**VT 595 MNX 4x 1”1 5 714.8
Dead-end bypass *VT 6661 884.6
VT TA 4420 16(2.0)x¾”8 549.6
TeeVT 130 1”1 177.2
Servomotor for mixing valveNR 2301 3 919
Thermostat regulating overheadEM 5481 550.3
Total 1

56 990.7
Total 2

58 669.4

** - optional

A set of water heated floors with an area of ​​more than 60 m2. (Combimix pumping and mixing unit)

Heated floor kit for heating rooms with an area of ​​more than 60 m2 with a pumping and mixing unit with automatic maintenance coolant temperature. The maximum power of the underfloor heating system is 20 kW. The system uses a manifold block with control valves with flow meters (optional) to ensure equal coolant flow in the underfloor heating loops (hydraulic balancing of the loops).

An accurate calculation of the thermal and hydraulic parameters of underfloor heating loops can be carried out using the free underfloor heating calculation program Valtec Prog.

Name vendor code Qty. Price
MP pipe Valtec16(2,0) from the area
PlasticizerSilar (10l)from the area
Damper tapeEnergoflex Super 10/0.1-25from the area
Thermal insulationTP - 25/1.0-5from the area
Pumping and mixing unitCombimix1 9 010
Circulation pump 1**Wilo Star RS 25/41 3 551
Circulation pump 2**Wilo Star RS 25/61 4 308
Ball valveVT 219 1”2 489
Collector block 1**VT 594 MNX1 from the area
Collector block 2**VT 595 MNX1 from the area
Fitting for MP pipe EuroconeVT TA 4420 16(2.0)x¾”from area (1)
Servo*VT TE 30401 1 058.47
Programmable thermostat *F1511 2 940
Electromechanical thermostat *F2571 604.3

An underfloor heating system is the most comfortable and economical option for heating a private home. back side medals - a decent price for components and installation compared to the cost of a radiator circuit. We offer significant savings - purchase materials, install a water-heated floor with your own hands and pour a cement screed. To help, we provide step-by-step instructions for installing heating circuits at the lowest financial cost.

Stages of work

Installing a heated floor in an apartment or private house is a set of measures that are carried out in a strict order:

  1. Design - calculation of the required heat transfer, laying pitch and length of pipes, breakdown into contours. Depending on the type of base (floor), the composition of the heated floor “pie” is selected.
  2. Selection of components and building materials - insulation, pipes, manifold with mixing unit and other auxiliary elements.
  3. Preparing the base.
  4. Installation work - laying out insulation and pipelines, installing and connecting the distribution comb.
  5. Filling the system with coolant, hydraulic testing - pressure testing.
  6. Pouring a monolithic screed using cement-sand mortar, initial start-up and warm-up.

Recommendation. Install the TP during the construction of the building, immediately after the construction of partitions between rooms. This will allow us to provide the desired height thresholds and freely fit the “pie” under the floor covering. If doorways with low thresholds have already been formed in residential premises, try to get out of the situation.

Let's move on to a detailed consideration of each stage of arranging heated floors.

Calculation and development of underfloor heating scheme

To properly install a heated floor under a screed with your own hands, consider the following: important points and requirements:

  • the maximum temperature of the finishing coating is 26 degrees; a hotter surface often causes discomfort and a feeling of stuffiness in residents;
  • accordingly, the water in the reproductive tubes is heated to a maximum of 55 ° C, so directly to central heating apartments cannot be connected;
  • under stationary furniture, for example, a set in the kitchen, the floor is not heated;
  • the length of the pipe of one circuit does not exceed 100 meters (optimally 80 m), otherwise you will get uneven heat distribution, excessive cooling of the water and the cost of a more powerful circulation pump;
  • in order to comply with the previous rule, large rooms are divided into 2-3 heating plates, between which an expansion joint is placed, as shown in the figure.

In this case, the total length of the heating thread was 110 m, so the screed was divided into 2 slabs with an expansion joint in the middle

First, we will propose a more correct, albeit complex, design option. instructions, calculate heating power in any of 3 ways - by volume, area or heat loss of the room. Then determine the laying pattern, diameter and distance between adjacent pipes, taking into account thermal resistance coverings - laminate, linoleum or tiles.

Note. The method for calculating the pitch of laying pipes under tiles and other types of coatings is explained in the manual.

Let us present a simplified version of the scheme development practiced by many builders:

  1. If you live in regions with a cold climate, lay the pipe at intervals of 10 cm. For the middle zone and south, the step is taken to be 15 cm; in the bathroom under the tiles, 200 mm is enough.
  2. We calculate the length of the pipeline for 1 room. With a distance between threads of 100 mm at square meter will lay 10 m of pipe, with a step of 15 cm - 6.5 m.p. If the total length exceeds 100 m, we divide the area into 2 equal parts - two separate heating monoliths.
  3. Among existing schemes installations - “snail” and “snake” - it is better for a beginner to choose the latter - it is easier to install.
  4. We determine the number of heating circuits and select a manifold with the appropriate number of leads. More cheap option- on one's own.
  5. We place the collector in convenient location home (for example, a corridor). It is recommended to maintain the same distance to all rooms; for an example, see the drawing of a one-story house.
  6. The pipes in the corridor will probably lie too close - they need to be insulated with a polyethylene sleeve.
  7. Be sure to provide two-pipe wiring in the floor from the boiler to the heating radiators.

An important nuance. When calculating the length of the heated floor branches, do not forget to add the distance from the room to the point of installation of the comb with a pump mixing unit. To avoid making mistakes with loop lengths, watch the training video:

Let us explain why to install wiring for batteries. Having laid pipe loops without calculation, you do not know in advance whether the power of the TP will be enough on the coldest winter days. If a problem arises, you should not heat heated floors above 55 °C; it is better to turn on the high-temperature radiator network.

Composition of the “pie” of heated floors on the ground

There are many schemes published on the Internet, varying in composition. Confusion is usually caused by the use of film vapor and waterproofing between different layers of the “pie”. Let's explain each element classical scheme warm water floor installed on the ground (the list of layers goes from bottom to top):


Important point. The described scheme is correct when using polymer insulators that do not allow moisture to pass through - extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. If the rules fire safety require putting basalt wool, an additional layer of film must be laid under the screed to protect the insulation from getting wet on top.

Craftsmen often simplify the design of heated floors - they place the insulation directly on the sand cushion, without pouring rough concrete. The solution is acceptable under one condition - the sand must be carefully leveled and compacted mechanized way- vibrating plate.


The top film prevents moisture from penetrating from the screed into the mineral wool; from there it has nowhere to go

When installing a wooden floor on joists, it is better to avoid screeding. Use the “dry” method of installing the TP - padding from boards or chipboard and metal dissipating plates. Thermal insulation material- mineral wool.

Scheme of TP on a concrete floor

This method of floor heating is advisable to use in rooms above cold basements or on insulated balconies (loggias). Do water TP over living rooms apartment buildings are unacceptable, although some owners ignore the ban.

Advice. In multi-storey buildings or dachas with periodic heating, it is easier and cheaper to install electric heated floors - cable or infrared made of carbon heating film.

The TP “pie”, arranged above a cold room, is made in the same way as heating on the ground, but without a sand cushion and rough screed. If the surface is too uneven, thermal insulation boards are laid on a dry mixture of cement and sand (ratio 1: 8) with a height of 1-5 cm. Heating circuits above heated rooms can be laid without waterproofing.

Here is a list of equipment and building materials that will be used to install a water heated floor:


Why you shouldn’t invest in thermal insulation of floors mineral wool. Firstly, you will need expensive slabs high density 135 kg/m³, secondly, porous basalt fiber will have to be protected on top with an additional layer of film. And the last thing: it is inconvenient to attach pipelines to the cotton wool - you will have to put a metal mesh.

Explanation about the use of masonry welded mesh from wire Ø4-5 mm. Remember: the building material does not reinforce the screed, but acts as a substrate for securely fastening pipes with plastic clamps when the “harpoons” do not adhere well to the insulation.


Option for attaching pipelines to a mesh of smooth steel wire

The thickness of the thermal insulation is taken depending on the location of the heated floors and the climate in the place of residence:

  1. Ceilings above heated rooms are 30...50 mm.
  2. On the ground or above the basement, southern regions - 50...80 mm.
  3. The same in middle lane– 10 cm, in the north – 15...20 cm.

IN warm floors 3 types of pipes with a diameter of 16 and 20 mm (DN10, DN15) are used:

  • made of metal-plastic;
  • made of cross-linked polyethylene;
  • metal - copper or corrugated stainless steel.

Pipelines made of polypropylene cannot be used in TP. Thick-walled polymer does not transfer heat well and elongates significantly when heated. Soldered joints, which will definitely end up inside the monolith, will not withstand the stresses that arise, will become deformed and will leak.


Usually metal-plastic (left) or polyethylene pipes with oxygen barrier (right)

For beginners, we recommend using metal-plastic pipes to install heated floors on their own. Causes:

  1. The material bends easily with the help of a limiting spring; after bending, the pipe “remembers” new uniform. Cross-linked polyethylene tends to return to the original coil radius, so it is more difficult to install.
  2. Metal-plastic is cheaper than polyethylene pipelines (with equal quality of products).
  3. Copper is an expensive material; it is connected by soldering and heating the joint with a torch. High-quality work requires a lot of experience.
  4. Corrugation from of stainless steel Installs without problems, but has increased hydraulic resistance.

To successfully select and assemble a manifold block, we suggest studying a separate manual. Here's the catch: the price of the comb depends on the method of temperature control and the mixing valve used - three-way or two-way. The cheapest option is RTL thermal heads, which operate without mixing and a separate pump. After reading the publication, you will definitely do right choice control unit for heated floors.


Homemade distribution block with RTL thermal heads that regulate flow based on return flow temperature

Preparing the base

The purpose of the preliminary work is to level the surface of the base, lay a cushion and make a rough screed. The preparation of the soil base is carried out as follows:

  1. Level the ground along the entire floor plane and measure the height from the bottom of the pit to the top of the threshold. The recess should accommodate a layer of sand of 10 cm, a footing of 4-5 cm, thermal insulation of 80...200 mm (depending on the climate) and a full screed of 8...10 cm, minimum 60 mm. So, the minimum pit depth will be 10 + 4 + 8 + 6 = 28 cm, the optimal one is 32 cm.
  2. Dig a pit to the required depth and compact the soil. Place elevation marks on the walls and add 100 mm of sand, maybe mixed with gravel. Seal the pillow.
  3. Prepare M100 concrete by mixing 4.5 parts sand with one part M400 cement and adding 7 parts crushed stone.
  4. After installing the beacons, pour a 4-5 cm rough base and let the concrete harden for 4-7 days, depending on the ambient temperature.

Advice. If the height of the thresholds is not enough, sacrifice the subfloor 40 mm and reduce the thickness of the screed to 6 cm. As a last resort, add 6-7 cm of sand instead of ten, compact the cushion with a vibrating plate. Thermal insulation layer cannot be reduced.

Preparing the concrete floor involves removing dust and sealing the cracks between the slabs. If there is a clear difference in heights along the plane, prepare a garter - a leveling dry mixture of Portland cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 8. How to correctly lay the insulation on the garter, watch the video:

Installation of heating circuits - step-by-step instructions

First of all, the base is covered with a waterproofing film with an overlap of 15...25 cm on the walls (thickness of thermal insulation + screed). The overlap of adjacent panels is at least 10 cm, the joints are taped. Then the insulation is tightly laid, the seams are filled with polyurethane foam.

  1. Cover the walls with a damper strip to the height of the monolith. Place the waterproofing overlap over the expansion tape.
  2. Mount a distribution cabinet with a pump and manifold inside.
  3. Lay out the circuit pipes according to the diagram, using measuring instrument and observing the laying interval. Immediately bring the ends of the loops and connect them to the comb.
  4. Attach the pipe to the thermal insulation by inserting plastic “harpoons” in increments of 50 cm. If the structure of the insulation does not hold the clamps well, before rolling out the pipelines, place a metal mesh and tie it to it with clamps.
  5. Install expansion tape on the expansion joints, as shown in the photo. The latter are installed along the boundaries of concrete monoliths, between individual heating circuits and in doorways.
  6. Lay the lines to the radiators by wrapping the pipes with heat-insulating sleeves. The connections to the comb should also be insulated - in this place the loops are located too close, there is absolutely no need to heat the floors in the corridor.

    In the photo on the left, the hinges are laid correctly - tightened into heat-insulating covers. The area of ​​future overheating is shown on the right - uninsulated pipes lie close together

  7. Connect the collector to the heating network of a private house, supply electricity to the cabinet for the circulation pump and other automation (if available).

Advice. During the heating process, the monoliths will expand and move relative to each other. Therefore, it is better to pack pipes crossing the boundaries of slabs in special protective covers or put on thermal insulation sleeves.


The passage through the deformation joint - it is better to cover the pipes with covers or wrap them with insulation

It also wouldn’t hurt to start the boiler, warm up the heated floors without screed and visually verify proper operation systems. How to install underfloor water heating is shown in the video:

Filling the screed and adjusting the collector

To install heating monoliths of heated floors, a cement-sand mortar of grade 200 is made with the obligatory addition of a plasticizing composition. Proportions of components: cement M400 / sand - 1: 3, the amount of liquid plasticizer is indicated in the instructions on the package.

Work order:

  1. Buy beacons - metal perforated slats, prepare 2-3 buckets of a thick solution without plasticizer. It is not recommended to make restrictive strips from wood.
  2. Using a trowel and building level, install the beacons at the required height, as shown in the photo.
  3. Mix a portion of the main solution, pour it in the far corner on top of the “pie” and stretch along the beacons as a rule. If depressions with puddles form, add solution, and the next time you mix, reduce the volume of mixing water.
  4. Repeat mixing until you have filled the entire area of ​​the room. It is allowed to walk on the monolith and carry out further work when the strength has reached 50%, and to start heating - at 75%. Below is a table of concrete hardness gain depending on time and air temperature.

    The minimum strength values ​​are highlighted in red, and the optimal strength for continuing work in green.

After hardening to 75% strength, you can start the boiler and begin to slowly warm up the heated floors at minimum temperature. Open the flow meters or valves on the manifold 100%. Full heating of the screed will take 8-12 hours. summer period, in the fall - up to a day.

The most convenient way to balance the loops is by calculation. If you know the required amount of heat for the room, determine the water flow in the circuit and set this value on the rotameter. The calculation formula is simple:

  • G – amount of coolant flowing through the loop, l/hour;
  • Δt – temperature difference between return and supply, take 10 °C;
  • Q – thermal power contour, W.

Note. The flowmeter scale is marked in liters per minute, so before setting, the resulting figure must be divided by 60 minutes.

The final adjustment is made after the fact, when the finishing coating is ready - epoxy self-leveling flooring, laminate, tiles, and so on. If you do not want to get involved with calculations, you will have to balance the contours of the heated floor using the “scientific poke” method. Methods for adjusting the manifold, including using the Valtec program, are described in the latest video:

Conclusion

Installation of water heated floors in a small one-story house- the problem is completely solvable. It is better to carry out the work at the beginning of the warm period in order to have a reserve of time to eliminate possible errors. If you want to make work easier and speed up installation, buy special mats with bosses for TP, which allow you to quickly attach pipes without additional fixation with brackets and clamps. You won't need wire mesh either.

A warm water floor is excellent option heating of any apartment or house. Many people know about its effectiveness, and therefore they decide to install it. They can do this either with the help of appropriately qualified specialists or with their own hands. This article will answer the question of how to make a water heated floor with your own hands.


Pipe laying options

The biggest benefit is saving money. The home owner does not need to spend money on paying for services provided by specialized organizations. All he needs to do is determine the required amount of materials, purchase them and begin installation.

Of course, the use of services construction companies is a simpler process, because all the routine work will be done by their specialists. However, it often happens that organizations are unscrupulous, that is, they perform each operation poorly. Moreover, some of them enter into contracts with manufacturers building materials and therefore may not always be offered to the owner quality pipes, insulation, as well as other elements. Of course, such situations are rare.

Also, the advantage of self-installation is that to carry it out you need to become familiar with many secrets, reading various information and watching a lot of videos.

It seems like a waste of time, but in the future these secrets will allow us to develop rules for proper operation.

Preparing the base

In addition, by carrying out independent installation, a person fully controls all processes. At the same time, he performs them as best as possible, because he does it just for himself. The main requirement for the base on which the heated floor will “perch” is its evenness. It should not have differences greater than 10 millimeters. In this case, the base refers to the concrete floor. Therefore, if there is old parquet


or wooden floor, they need to be dismantled. The main goal is to obtain a clean surface of the concrete floor itself.

Preparing the base In many cases, there are differences with values ​​exceeding the permissible values. This drawback is often eliminated by pouring a concrete screed. There is a simpler option.

It involves filling up uneven areas with screenings (fine-grained stone sand). After such actions, the surface is ready for installation of insulating and insulating materials, which can be different.


Base insulation

Base insulation

The prepared surface is insulated with polystyrene foam board. It is important that its density is greater than 35 km/m³. A material with such parameters will cope perfectly with the load that a warm floor with a person will create. If the density is less, the slab will simply collapse and cease to perform the function of thermal insulation. The width of the slab depends on the location of the housing.

If it is located on the ground floor and the room below is not heated, then the thickness of the polystyrene foam should be more than 100 millimeters. A slab with a thickness of 50 millimeters is placed on the floor between the second and first, as well as the highest floors. It is possible to use thinner insulation (at least 30 millimeters), but this should not be done.

Either plastic film or foil penofol is placed on top of the polystyrene foam plate. The process is simple and notified different videos. The second material is polyethylene foam, onto which the manufacturer applies foil. Penofol with foil, like polyethylene film, is a good waterproofing agent. Moisture insulation is important to improve the climate's thermal insulation properties. In addition, the foil reflects heat upward, which improves the heating of the concrete screed, flooring, and the entire room. She also doesn't miss most of the harmful substances from expanded polystyrene.


Pouring screed

Here it is worth dwelling on one point that is often missed. Open foil is destroyed chemical reactions concrete mortar. This happens while pouring the screed. In cases where the thickness of the foil is very small, the solution simply “eats” it. The salvation is a specially designed one for creating warm floors. wet method foil penofol. It has protection or very thick foil.


Foil penofol

This point is unimportant if the installation of a warm water floor does not involve pouring a cement screed. As you know, warm water floors can also be laid and wooden. In the first case, a special gasket is placed on top of the tubes and aluminum sheets, on top of which there is either linoleum. In the second case, an old wooden floor is used as a base. A special coating is also placed on top of the contour.

Calculation and distribution of pipes

Regardless of the type of heated water floor, pipe calculations can be carried out in the same way. The process is quite complex. It requires taking into account various factors. They are presented:

  • the size of the room;
  • materials of walls, ceilings and thermal insulation;
  • type of flooring;
  • type of thermal insulation for underfloor heating;
  • diameter of the tubes used;
  • power of a gas or electric boiler.

Calculation and distribution of pipes

All this data is taken into account for one purpose - determining the length of the circuit, that is, one pipe with which one branch is created and which is connected to the collector. Often the length of the circuit is determined taking into account the diameter of the tube and the climate.

Tubes with a diameter of 16 and 20 mm are used; practice shows that a pipe with a larger diameter is the best. Reasons: better heating of the screed and less resistance to water while driving. Thanks to this, the boiler operates with less load.

The optimal length with a diameter of 16 mm is up to 80 meters. It is best if it does not exceed 65 meters. As for a product with a diameter of 20 mm, its length should not exceed 100 meters. The most optimal option is 75 meters.

Depending on the weather conditions select the distance between the pipes. If winter “pleases” with frosts no stronger than -22 degrees Celsius, then the distance should be equal to 150 millimeters. For heating in more very coldy the step must be reduced to 100 millimeters. In the case where the conditions do not differ from the climate in the north, additional radiators should be installed and used (they can be heated using a boiler).

To calculate the length of one branch, you need to draw a plan for their placement in the room, taking into account the above features. The intricacies of this process are often noted in our video. At the same time, it is convenient to divide the room into many squares. One side of the square should be proportional to the distance between the tubes. This makes it easier to develop a project and also calculate the required length of the contour. This procedure can be seen in the video.

You can place the outline:

  • in a spiral;
  • along a double spiral;
  • snake

It is worth adding that the first circuit meters placed near the boiler should be placed near the cold walls. The warmest water will float there. In this case, “snake” installation is perfect. If all the walls are internal, then you need to distribute the heat evenly. Spiral placement is suitable for this.


Contour calculation

If you don’t want to bother with calculations, you can entrust this work to specialists or use the appropriate programs, where the video shows the automation of laying out pipes for the floor.


Grid installation

Installation begins with placing the reinforcing mesh on foil foam. It helps to increase the strength of the concrete screed, which, when heated, expands and can crack. In addition, it serves as a basis for securing the tubes. The mesh must be attached to the floor slab. This is done using dowel nails that will pass through the insulating layer.

Tubes are placed on the mesh in accordance with the developed project. Each circuit must be a complete pipe, without connections. It is not allowed to place connections in the screed. Attach the pipes using plastic clamps. The clamps should easily fit the main element of the system. You should not tighten them too much, since the tube will expand and the clamp will crush it.

The mounted tubes are connected to the manifold, which leads to the boiler. The latter is included. Water is supplied under pressure equal to 6 atmospheres. This is to check the integrity of the system.


Water floor system

The screed is filled with cement mortar with a special “plasticizer”. It will not allow the tie to crack. The thickness of the screed should be less than 5-7 centimeters. Its thickness above the heating system should be 1-3 centimeters (if using tiles as a floor covering) or 3-4 centimeters (if there are no tiles).

Video

With this video you will get a lot of useful information about the warm water field. You will also learn about installing underfloor heating loops.

Sources of photographs.

For many years, standard heating schemes using traditional radiators were considered the only possible and most convenient source of heat. Appearance on the market of heat-resistant and durable plastic pipes made it possible to create warm water floors in the heating circuits of homes, which initially played the role of an additional source of heat. It is not known who was the first to decide to radically modernize the heating system and make the created heated water floor with his own hands the main heating of the home. But nowadays this heating method is very popular.

To the question - where to start, how to make a water heated floor with your own hands, the answer is clear. You need to start with thermal calculations and creation detailed diagram laying pipelines for using the system as the main heating. First, calculations are made of the heat losses of the premises and required power water floor heating. In the absence of experience and knowledge, it is strongly recommended to entrust this difficult work to professionals in order to avoid disappointment and significant material losses in the future.

To carry out thermal calculations, you can use specialized computer programs or use a warm water floor calculator.
The practice of using heated floors, the obtained statistical data and experience made it possible to systematize recommendations on how to make heated floors from water heating in a house.

Doing thermal calculations, it is necessary to take into account first of all:

Having the initial data you can easily draw general scheme, on which to mark the main highways and the location of the collector unit. A special (three-way or two-way) valve is usually installed in the manifold for a warm water floor to regulate the temperature of the coolant using the mixing method. The circuits have a considerable length (up to 80 meters), so the system is supplied. For large areas premises, the system should not be simplified; it is better to make several heating circuits with a pipeline length of no more than 100 meters.

Designers and heating system specialists give a number of recommendations, in particular, before you make a water heated floor yourself, you need to follow certain rules for installing the circuit as the main method of heating your home.

The essence of these rules is as follows:

These recommendations must be followed precisely and taken into account when creating a preliminary design, which on a sheet of paper will reflect the installation of a water heated floor with your own hands and prevent possible mistakes when installing the circuit.


The main elements of the heating system "warm floors"

The home heating system, which is based on water-heated floors, operates according to simple principle. They are laid under the floor, along which hot coolant moves through a circulation pump from the distribution manifold. It gives off its heat to the floor, which evenly heats the room. It should be noted that the interior of the room changes beyond recognition, because there are no heating radiators, return and supply pipes, which allows you to create unusual design solutions on housing arrangement.

The main elements of the system and what is needed for a warm water floor in the house:

Requirements for the main elements of the heating system "warm floors"

As with any heating scheme, the main element on which the efficiency and reliability of the heating system depends is the boiler that heats the water or other coolant in the system. Another element that is necessary for such a heating system is assembled, installed and connected. The third element for creating a warm floor is pipes for connecting and laying heating circuits.

Properties of the main elements of this heating method in more detail:

Laying water floors indoors

In the practice of installing underfloor heating systems, two main methods of laying heating circuits are used - concreting and the laying method. But before you start laying the contour you need to do some preparatory work. The efficiency of heating will largely depend on their correct implementation.

Works requiring increased attention in preparation for installation:


Creating a warm floor using concreting

Before you do it, that is, start laying pipes and creating a heating circuit, you need to install the collector in the place that was determined when creating the project. Then a damper tape is installed to compensate for temperature fluctuations in the screed. The pipes are attached either to the reinforcing mesh or to special thermal insulation for heated floors, which has grooves and fastenings for the circuit pipes.

Laying is done in several ways: snake, loops, spiral or snail-type laying. These are the main ones wiring diagrams warm water floors in an apartment or in a private house. Laying step for different regions and external conditions are different, from 10 to 40 centimeters. The distance from the wall of the room to the nearest circuit pipe is at least 8 centimeters.

After careful and careful installation, testing of the installed circuit during the day is necessary. Water is supplied to the circuit at a pressure of 5 - 6 bar and it remains under pressure for at least 24 hours. Then everything is carefully and carefully checked for defects or leaks. Only after a successful test of the circuit does the warm water floor begin to be poured with your own hands, with pipes filled with water under operating pressure. Under no circumstances should the concrete screed be dried using heating from a heating boiler due to possible cracking. The screed must harden naturally within 28 days.

The thickness of the concrete layer above the poured circuit pipes depends on the type of floor covering used.

If you are planning warm water floors under tiles with your own hands, then in this case the thickness of the screed should be from 3 to 5 centimeters, and the distance between the circuit pipes from 10 to 40 centimeters. In the same case, if a laminate is used for a warm water floor, the thickness of the screed should be reduced to a reasonable minimum, and for strength, a reinforcing mesh should be laid over the circuit pipes. The mesh will add rigidity, strengthen the structure and reduce thermal resistance screeds.

Laying pipes

If the house has wooden floors, then the installation of a warm water floor is carried out using the so-called laying method. This method involves laying pipes in a specially prepared flooring.

There are many plastic modules on sale with seats and pipe mounts already prepared in them.

Wood blocks with longitudinal channels and fastenings are also produced. With this installation method, to reduce heat losses, a special underlay for a warm water floor is installed on the prepared base, which has high waterproofing and thermal insulation properties.

There are a lot of tips and recommendations, even step-by-step instructions for creating warm water floors with your own hands on the Internet. This topic is popular, despite the presence of other systems of heated floors and ceilings - infrared and electric (laying a special cable in a screed). The price per square meter of a warm water floor is the lowest among all existing ones. But it should be borne in mind that this is a very difficult and responsible job that requires knowledge, skills and abilities.