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» Finishing work on the construction of a warm attic with your own hands. How to insulate an attic for winter living Warm attic

Finishing work on the construction of a warm attic with your own hands. How to insulate an attic for winter living Warm attic

Each owner uses the space under the roof differently, depending on their goals. Some people set up a bedroom here, others - a spacious living room, others - a hall intended for playing table tennis or billiards. Some owners have quite successfully equipped a children's room in this area. And some are sure that the best option for this space is winter Garden. How many people, so many decisions. But everyone comes to the same conclusion: the view that opens from the windows of the top floor is definitely amazing.

Insulation installation diagram.

Who was the first to use the attic for residential purposes?

The load on the “attic” floor, compared to the floors below, is too small, so there is a minimum number of load-bearing structures here. This helps create the most spacious, even “airy” rooms. - This is a living space located in the attic space. It received this name after the name of the French architect F. Mansart. It was he who first began to use the attic for residential and commercial purposes.

Attic insulation

In order for the attic to turn into an attic, you will need to complete some complex work simple work. First you need to think through the important question of how to make sure that the room gets daylight. Before equipping the attic, the owner needs to decide whether this space will be used profitably during the cold period. If you need a warm attic, then you need to properly insulate the attic space.

We create a reliable protective screen

Since the attic, as a rule, has a fairly large total area for contact with the external environment, its heat loss, especially in winter months, are too large and represent somewhere around 20 - 25% of the heat loss of the entire building. The goal of a true owner will be to ensure that costly energy leakage is kept to a minimum. Achieving such an effect will become quite possible provided that the most reliable protective screen made of high-quality material designed for thermal insulation.

We withstand insulation technologies

However, no less an important condition Its achievement is its application in the most precise accordance with established insulation technologies. The warm screen will also perform a rescue function for the attic in the summer in case of possible overheating.

Consequences of poor-quality insulation

  • excessively high humidity inside the attic;
  • icing of overhanging roof eaves;
  • freezing of window junctions;
  • constant occurrence of leaks and the formation of icicles.

Thermal insulation of the attic is extremely important and necessary construction process. In many ways, the durability and reliability of a given room depends on it, so the option of saving money spent on purchasing materials for insulation is completely inappropriate here.

Choosing the right insulation

Modern market thermal insulation materials rich and varied. Attic construction will require, first of all, insulation materials with properties such as high environmental friendliness, fire safety, minimal hygroscopicity, and also very high water resistance.

Wherein important point It is mandatory to have absolutely all of the above characteristics. The absence of any of the listed qualities in a given thermal insulation material, for example, not very good water resistance or not being highly hygroscopic, worsens it thermal resistance and, as a consequence, leads to a serious change not only in its dimensions, but also in the deterioration of its strength characteristics. All these shortcomings will manifest themselves in heat loss and a significant deterioration in living conditions.

What to remember when creating thermal protection for the attic?

When creating thermal protection for the attic, it is necessary to join the insulation boards as carefully as possible, remembering that even the slightest gap will manifest itself and serve as a source through which precious heat leaks out of the room. Remember that thermal insulation material is laid both under and above the rafters, and not just between them. A combined method is also possible. In this case, the slabs are mounted side by side between the rafters, as well as above (under) them in the sheathing of the attic itself.

We protect the insulation from water ingress

When installing insulation boards, there is a need to protect it from the possibility of water ingress and leaks, wind penetration and steam droplets that form inside the room. For this purpose, reliable water and wind protection, as well as vapor barrier (vapor barrier and waterproofing film, superdiffusion membrane ISOROC, etc.).

We insulate attic windows

Another important point to remember when constructing a roof is the need for ventilation. Speaking about, we need to remind you that special attention should be paid to the implementation of insulation skylights. It is especially important to ensure that the calculated thickness of the insulation is absolutely the same along the entire contour of the window opening, otherwise freezing is quite possible in those places where there will be a lower thickness of the insulation.

We insulate the gables of the attic

We do it using insulation in layered masonry located between the outer protective decorative layer of finishing and load-bearing wall. In order to prevent possible accumulation of moisture in the insulation, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier.

We insulate the attic walls

If, in the construction of the walls of a given room, a system called a “ventilated facade” has been used, when there is a gap of approximately 40–150 mm between the insulation and the protective and decorative cladding, then in order to provide maximum protection for such thermal insulation from heat and moisture blowing out of the gap, As a rule, a waterproof membrane is used. It is not at all necessary to insulate if the roof of this room has been insulated, starting from the top and continuing to the very bottom. We produce only after the floor has been insulated.

Thermal insulation of walls is carried out as follows: on the back side of the racks, which are the supports of the future wall, they are filled with wooden slats. It is on them that thermal insulation needs to be laid. Sheets of thermal insulation, pre-cut to the required size, are placed very tightly between the supports. On top, the entire surface of the future wall is covered with a vapor barrier and hemmed with slats in the same way as the ceiling is decorated.

Pay attention to the joints

The attic vapor barrier can ensure maximum tightness, and its joints must be taped with tape. Ceiling insulation is usually carried out by laying the following layers: vapor barrier, insulation, hydrobarrier, floor, flooring. Such " layered cake” will 100% prevent exit warm air from the rooms below. Typically, either mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used as insulation.

We insulate the attic using mineral wool

If you decide to insulate the attic space using mineral wool, a better option would be to use mats made from mineral wool. They do not settle over time and keep their shape much better. Mineral wool needs to be laid in two layers.

We insulate the attic using polystyrene foam

Option, compared to using mineral wool, is a less desirable option. Definitely, foam retains heat well, but, in turn, it does not prevent mice from entering and appearing. However, the use of polystyrene foam is completely acceptable. It is advisable to lay the foam sheets in two layers. Therefore, it turns out that you need to purchase sheets 50 mm thick. And then they are laid between the rafters so that the joints belonging to the sheets of the first layer do not coincide with the joints of the sheets from the other layer.

An attic is a comfortable attic, which is often used as a living room or additional technical space. It differs in that it requires enhanced thermal insulation, since it has large area contact with cold atmospheric environment.

Depending on the purpose of using the attic, insulation materials are chosen that differ in the degree of thermal conductivity, density, and flammability. Let's figure out how best to insulate the attic so that it turns from a cold attic into a room suitable for living or storing things.

No matter how large the room is, there is always a need for one more room - a guest bedroom, a playroom, a gym, or just a convenient storage room.

By regulatory documentation, the attic is a room formed by a facade and roofing. According to sanitary standards, the distance from the floor to the line of intersection of the wall with the roof should be at least 1.5 m, and to the ceiling - 2.5 m. In this case, the area with a “high” ceiling (2.5 m or more) should occupy 50% of the total area attics.

It is obvious that in private housing construction there are deviations from the standards. For example, for the configuration attic space factors such as the shape and size of the roof can influence: houses with a high roof have higher attic ceilings, but the floor area is narrower.

However, with all the advantages of an additional comfortable room, there are nuances that increase the cost of construction and finishing work:

  • window installation;
  • hydro- and thermal insulation.

The last point is also important because literally everything will have to be insulated: the floor, gables, walls, often consisting of two parts - the facade and the roof. At the same time, the same requirements apply to thermal insulation materials as to insulation for residential premises. In addition to suitable technical characteristics they must be absolutely safe.

An example of how the shape and height of the roof can affect the size of the attic - therefore, the features of the under-roof space must be taken into account when planning the living space

Review of thermal insulation materials for roofing

Today on the market you can find everything: from long-proven glass wool to natural and foil materials, which are still less commonly used in practice. Let's consider the best way to insulate the walls and floor of the attic from the inside so that the attic space becomes warm and does not have to be repaired in the near future.

Option #1 – glass wool

Glass wool has gained popularity due to its low cost, so if you want to save on thermal insulation, you can use roll mats or more convenient slabs for installation. The raw materials for production are specially purified quartz sand and glass industry waste.

In addition to the affordable price and light weight the material has the following advantages:

  • elasticity, which allows you to lay slabs or mats with a tight fit to each other and to the rafters;
  • flexibility, useful for insulating complex roof areas;
  • unattractiveness to rodents, which is explained by the lack of natural materials in the composition.

However, there are also plenty of shortcomings. For example, these include high hygroscopicity, requiring the use of vapor barrier with inside and ventilation for moisture evaporation - from the outside.

Due to its fragility, fiberglass breaks down and tiny particles of dust spread into the air, creating a hazardous environment for health. In addition, dubious companies are used in production as binder formaldehyde, so it is better to use a more expensive but safe material.

Option #6 – sprayed polyurethane foam

Spraying foam thermal insulation on the inside of the roof is an excellent opportunity to create seamless, durable insulation without cold bridges and seams that require filling. One of the highest quality “sprayers” is polyurethane foam, which creates an effective thermal insulation layer.

Advantages of sprayed insulation:

  • thermal conductivity coefficient – ​​0.03 W/m×°C and less;
  • optional use of vapor barrier;
  • good adhesion to various surfaces;
  • lack of preliminary preparation;

The thin but dense layer created by hardened polyurethane foam is also excellent soundproofing protection, which is important for an attic used as a bedroom.

One of the key issues that needs to be resolved at the design stage of a house made of laminated veneer lumber is the installation of the roof.
The developer is faced with the question: what is better, more functional and economically feasible: a warm attic or an attic.

The attic is the non-residential space between the ceiling last floor and the roof of the building.

The attic is also the space between the ceiling of the top floor and the roof of the building, which is already used as a living space. On two sides, the attic has vertically straight pediments, and on the other two, the facades are formed by the surfaces of a sloping or sloping roof. Thus, the attic ceiling is at the same time the roof. To make a space habitable, it is necessary to fulfill a number of requirements and apply special technologies to create a living space.

Advantages and disadvantages of the attic and attic.

When installing an attic, you get an uninhabitable void between interfloor covering and roofing. The advantage of an attic is savings. The insulation is laid only on the ceiling, reducing its consumption, and the resulting attic space creates air gap. The gables can remain cold, which also leads to savings.
Unlike an attic, a warm attic requires insulation of the gables. The insulation of the roof is carried out according to the topography of the roof, which results in a much higher consumption of insulation than in the case of an attic.
The attic floor implies a straight ceiling of the last floor, which greatly limits the design possibilities of the room.
When installing an attic, the rafter system can be made visible, which gives a unique design to the room and gives a special flavor to the space.
The ceiling is not made straight, but according to the internal relief of the roof, and you get a large volumetric space that can be beautifully played out in the interior.

Cold attic or full second floor?

The main benefit of this solution is the usable area of ​​the second floor. You get a second floor of equal height, comfortable for living. You don’t face the problem of whether the cabinet will fit against the wall, you don’t have low “pockets” that need to be played up in the interior and thought about how they can be used functionally. You have more mercy!
well and non-residential premises the attic can be used as a storage room, which also significantly increases usable area Houses.

Probably the most The best way increase usable area own home- this is to replace the gable roof of the house with a mansard one. In this way, you can purchase one, two or even three additional rooms without carving out additional space on the site and without dealing with the very labor-intensive processes of pouring a new foundation and erecting walls. And to find out how to make an attic correctly, you need to consider all the stages of its arrangement, starting with calculations and ending with roof covering and finishing of the resulting additional rooms.

In order for all the work to be successful, first of all you need to make sure that the existing walls (if the superstructure is being built in an old house) are able to withstand the additional load. This factor will determine whether such a construction project is worth undertaking, and if so, which attic roof design would be best to choose.

It should be noted that the load on load-bearing walls will increase significantly - due to more rafters, due to the mass interior decoration walls and floors, windows and doors, insulation systems, as well as all elements of the interior filling of attic rooms. All of these factors indicate that you need to start with choosing the optimal attic design, carrying out calculations, drawing up a project and drawings of the future superstructure.

Types of attic superstructures

According to current building codes, an attic is considered to be a room under a roof that has a height from the ceiling to the ridge of at least 2500 mm. If this parameter is less than the specified limit, then the room is considered an ordinary attic.

  • If the vertical posts that determine the height of the walls of the room are 1500 mm in size, then the attic space can be considered a full floor.
  • A semi-attic is an attic space in which there are no vertical posts at all, or if they have a height of 500 to 700 mm.

The basis of any roof structure is always triangles with their “rigid” structure

There are several types of attic superstructures, but the most popular of them are high gable and broken structures. Their popularity can be explained by simpler calculations, relatively simple installation work and ease of use. In third place, after gable and broken structures, we can name a single-pitch roof option, which is also sometimes used for arranging an attic. Unfortunately, not every house design can use this type of superstructure, since it requires not only reconstruction of the roof, but also raising the already built walls, which significantly increases the load on both them and the foundation.

If it is being built new house, and the second floor is planned in the form of an attic, then a pitched roof option is well suited for this purpose. In addition, this will help save on roofing material.

More complex structures - domed, hipped, and also with various cantilever projections arranged in the roof slopes (single-level and multi-level) are used extremely rarely and only in exclusive projects, since they have a complex design both in engineering calculations and in installation.


The figure below the numbers shows:

1 – Gable attic.

2 – Broken attic

3 – Single-level cantilever attic

4 – Multi-level attic.

Gable attic

Attic space under d a vuskat roof, which is arranged at an angle between the slopes of 80 ÷ 90 degrees at the ridge, can easily be converted into an attic. To create full-fledged residential premises under it, it will be necessary to carry out a number of necessary reconstructions; for example, very often it cannot be done without strengthening the attic floor. All these alterations and plus the necessary insulation will certainly “eat up” a significant part of the usable space under the roof, so you should not expect that the rooms in such an attic will be spacious and with high ceilings.


Of course, if the dimensions (length and width) of the house are large enough, and the roof has a significant angle of inclination (45 degrees or even higher), then after the alterations you can count on a relatively spacious attic space.

broken roof

The room under the sloping attic roof will be much more spacious and with a fairly high ceiling. Such an attic can be easily divided into two separate rooms.


Interior of an attic made according to the “broken” type

The sloping roof has four planes of slopes. They are placed at different angles - the upper slopes are called ridge slopes, and the lower ones are called side slopes. They, for the most part, act as walls.

This type of mansard roof is somewhat more difficult to design and install, but the result will delight you with spacious rooms and a respectable appearance Houses.

Single-level cantilever attic

This type of attic has even more complex design than the previous one, since it implies a displacement of the attic space to one side or the other.


Using this option for installing an attic, you can get spacious rooms, much larger in area than under a pitched roof.

The design of a single-level attic roof can replicate not only a gable, but also a single-slope version - this will depend on how much it is planned to move the console out of the attic and raise its ceiling.

Multi-level add-on

Multi-level construction is the most difficult to design and install. The help of qualified specialists will definitely be needed in its development and construction. The supports for the levels of the attic rooms are various rafter systems and ceilings, which are combined with the main one. A multi-level system involves the arrangement of rooms at different levels of the attic, which is why the consoles should be located this way.


Having chosen the most desirable type of attic, you need to determine whether it is possible to install it on the old walls of the house, or whether they will have to be strengthened. Therefore, you need to make accurate calculations and draw up a project.

Roof truss basics

Most roofs, and the attic roof is no exception, have one of two types rafter system, or a combination of them. Each of these varieties has its own characteristics, which depend on the location of the load-bearing walls of the building.

Hanging system

A hanging rafter system is defined by the fact that it is supported only by two external main walls located along the length of the building, in which there are no internal main partitions.


Such a system is used provided that the distance between the main supports is no more than 13 ÷ 14 meters. In any case, this design puts a fairly large load on the walls and foundation of the building.

To weaken the loads in this system, various support structures are used. elements - crossbars, headstocks, struts, tightening, racks and other parts.

For example, the headstocks seem to suspend the entire system from the ridge beam using a tightening rod, and the struts pull the overlapping beams to the rafter legs.

For the attic floor in this system, it is necessary to use thick bars, logs or boards that are installed on the edge. Their thickness can be determined from the table given in this publication, taking as a basis the distance between the support points.

So that when using hanging system the ceiling was reliable and durable, you need to make accurate calculations, and if it’s difficult to do this yourself, then it’s better

Layered design

The layered system is distinguished by the fact that it has supports not only on the external main walls, but also on internal partitions, which have a foundation.


Therefore, when starting the construction of a house in which an attic is planned, you need to think in advance about the location of the internal capital partitions.

For a house with an attic, a layered system is the best option, since the beams covering the house will be firmly and securely fixed to the walls and partitions.

When constructing a broken attic roof structure, you can use combined option rafter system, that is, use elements of both hanging and layered systems.

Attic design

When drawing up a project for the construction of any type of attic, it is recommended to consider it in different projections in order to clearly determine the location of all supporting elements. When calculating all the parameters of the attic, they must be immediately included in the project.

Based on the calculations made, the locations and methods of installation of all structural elements of the rafter system are determined. Calculation is also necessary to accurately determine the materials needed for the construction of the attic and their parameters.

Design elements

Any of wooden structures the attic roof consists of certain elements that are interconnected connecting nodes having different configurations. To better understand the design of these connections, it is recommended to draw each of them, and when making installation work- Be sure to have this drawing on hand.


The design of a sloping mansard roof includes the following components of the system:

  • Mauerlat - element, made from wooden beam and laid on the main walls of the building in its length. It serves to evenly distribute the load from the rafter system structure onto the wall and foundation. Rafter legs are installed and secured to the Mauerlat. This element is mounted both in a gable and in a sloping attic roof structure.
  • Floor beams, which are laid on the main walls of the building and form the basis for the future attic floor and the ceiling of the first floor, as well as for the installation of the entire rafter system.
  • The rafter leg consists of one straight element - bar or boards in a gable roof, or from two parts - in a broken structure. In a sloping mansard roof top part, attached to the ridge, is called the ridge, and the lower one, which forms the walls of the attic, is called the side. Obviously, the side leg will be installed according to the layered principle, while the upper ridge rafter usually becomes hanging
  • For the ridge, a beam or board of a certain thickness is used. Sometimes they do without this by connecting the upper ridge parts of the rafter legs, which form the ridge.
  • Racks are the supporting elements of the system. They support the rafter legs and relieve some of the load from the walls and foundation of the building. The racks will later become the sheathing for the walls, which will be installed during the finishing of the attic.
  • Bevels or other elements installed diagonally are additional supports that fasten the rafters and supporting beams, making the design of the system more reliable.
  • Between the rafter legs, for rigidity, bars are installed, called inter-rafter purlins - they also give rigidity to the system.

Carrying out basic calculations of the attic

It is quite difficult to independently develop a mansard roof project, since this process requires certain knowledge and skills in designing and carrying out specific architectural calculations. If you make mistakes, the attic structure will be unreliable, and in addition, its weight can damage the walls and foundation of the building.


Everything must be taken into account in the calculations - from the beginning of construction to the finishing of the premises.

However, if the design is not too complex, then you can try to cope on your own.

Calculation of ridge height

Size usable area attic space depends on the height of the roof ridge, and the latter is determined by the selected slope of the slopes - the smaller this angle, the lower the ceiling and, accordingly, the smaller effective area attic space.


N=L× tgα

N— ridge height;

L- ½ the width of the building (if we are talking about a gable symmetrical roof);

α - angle of inclination of the rafter system slope.


Diagram - for clarity

As an example, you can substitute the data used in the formula above:

Building size 8×10 m, slope angle 30°, tangent 30°= 0.58

H = 8/2 × 0.58 = 2.32 m

The height of the ridge will be equal to 2,32 m.

The process and all other related parameters are described in great detail, with all possible nuances and necessary reference tables, from a separate publication devoted specifically to this issue.

Attic interior space area

The method used to determine the area of ​​the attic space will make it possible to calculate the amount of material required for the construction of the rafter system, for insulation and finishing. Particularly accurate calculations are important if the attic will be used for arranging additional living rooms, since they require special design.

Usually the entire area of ​​the room under the roof is calculated, that is, both useful and the so-called "deaf". The living space is limited by installed racks, which will be the basis for the installation and finishing material of the walls. The area behind them is considered deaf, that is, most often not used.

The total area is calculated quite simply: the width of the overhangs on both sides is added to the width of the building. The resulting amount is multiplied by the length of the building.

The area of ​​the living space is also easy to find: to do this, you need to measure the width of the attic space between the racks installed under one and the other roof slope, and multiply the resulting parameter by the length of the attic from gable to gable.

Roofing area

In order to determine in advance the amount of roofing material, it is necessary to calculate the total area of ​​the roof slopes.

If you decide to install a broken or even more complex structure, you need to calculate the area of ​​​​all sections of the roof. To do this, you need to divide it into separate geometric shapes, and then calculate the area of ​​each of them and add up the results.

For those who do not firmly remember the formulas for calculating the areas of flat figures, a diagram is provided - a “cheat sheet”.

Shed roof area

If the attic roof is pitched, then its area can be calculated using the formula: Sabcd = Lcd × Lbd.


The area of ​​one slope - nothing could be simpler

Pay attention to the picture. When calculating, not only the length and width of the rafter structure of the slope are taken into account - we must not forget about the eaves overhangs on all sides.

Gable roof

With a symmetrical arrangement of roof slopes, to calculate a gable roof, all that remains is to multiply the value obtained above by two.

For example, let's take the same example discussed above. The size of the building is 10×8 m. The angle of the slope is 30°, the height of the ridge H = 2.32 m. It is easy to determine the length of the rafters - S

S = Н / sin α = 2.32 / 0.5 = 4.64 m

We accept cornice overhang 0,7 m, gable overhang 0,7 m. Using the formula for a pitched roof, the area of ​​one slope is calculated.

(10 + 2×0.7) × (4.64 + 0.7) = 60.88 m²

Then, to get the total area of ​​​​the two slopes, the resulting result is multiplied by two.

Q = 121.76 m²

This technique is intended for calculating the continuous surface of slopes, without taking into account windows, ventilation ducts and chimneys.


If the roof has a very complex structure, then it is better not to take risks and still seek help from professionals who will make the necessary calculations using special computer applications.

When using slate, soft roofing, others profile materials, you can use a simplified calculation formula.

Let's start from the picture:

So, the following formula is applicable for calculation:

Q= K × (B + 2A) × (L+2C)

Q— the required amount of roofing;

IN width of the building (along the gable wall);

A— the width of the planned roof eaves;

Ltotal length building;

C- width of the side overhangs of the roof.

TO is a coefficient that takes into account the angle of inclination of the slope relative to the horizon (α). By and large, it represents trigonometric function secant (sec), equal to the reciprocal of cosα.

In order not to go deep into theory, it’s easier to give a table of the coefficient TO in absolute, that is, numerical dimension:

Tilt angle, degreesFactor KTilt angle, degreesFactor KTilt angle, degreesFactor KTilt angle, degreesFactor K
1 1.0002 18 1.0515 36 1.2361 53 1.6616
2 1.0006 19 1.0576 37 1.2521 54 1.7013
3 1.0014 20 1.0642 38 1.2690 55 1.7434
4 1.0024 21 1.0711 39 1.2868 56 1.7883
5 1.0038 22 1.0785 40 1.3054 57 1.8361
6 1.0055 23 1.0864 41 1.3250 58 1.8871
7 1.0075 24 1.0946 42 1.3456 59 1.9416
8 1.0098 25 1.1034 43 1.3673 60 2.0000
9 1.0125 26 1.1126 44 1.3902 61 2.0627
10 1.0154 27 1.1223 45 1.4142 62 2.1301
11 1.0187 28 1.1326 46 1.4396 63 2.2027
12 1.0223 29 1.1434 47 1.4663 64 2.2812
13 1.0263 30 1.1547 48 1.4945 65 2.3662
14 1.0306 31 1.1666 49 1.5243 66 2.4586
15 1.0353 32 1.1792 50 1.5557 67 2.5593
16 1.0403 33 1.1924 51 1.5890 68 2.6695
17 1.0457 34 1.2062 52 1.6243 69 2.7904
35 1.2208 70 2.9238

Let's return to our example:

Q= 1.1547 × (8 + 2 × 0.7) × (10+2 × 0.7) = 123.74 m²

Taking into account overlaps slate sheets - the result is almost the same as in calculations carried out by another method. Of course, on advice experienced builders, to the resulting area when purchasing roofing material, another 10 ÷ 15 should be added %

(The picture shows gable roof However, the formula is fully suitable for calculations with the required level of accuracy for pitched or hip roofs. True, with a caveat - hip roof The steepness of the main and side slopes must match. If not, then the calculation is carried out for each pair of slopes separately, and then the value is summed).

Total weight of troping system and roofing

It is equally important to choose wisely optimal material for the roofing and correctly make the sheathing for it. This calculation is carried out taking into account the length of the rafters and their slope angle.

Lathing under roofing material can be sparse, mixed or continuous. For example, metal tiles, corrugated sheets or slate are fixed to a sparse sheathing, and a soft roof - only to a solid one.

When choosing a roof, you need to get information about it operational characteristics. The durability and reliability of the roof structure will depend on them. Roofing material must also be selected taking into account the specific region and its climatic conditions, especially factors such as temperature changes and strong winds.

An important factor is the weight of the roofing, especially if mansard roof will be installed on old walls. Therefore, you should estimate the weight of the roof in advance and find out how much the load on the building structure will increase, and whether it will be acceptable.

Roofing material for attic roofRoof slopeMaterial weight kg/m²
Asbestos cement slate sheets with medium profileFrom 1:10 to 1:211
Slate with reinforced profileFrom 1:5 to 1:113
Bituminous shinglesFrom 1:10 and more6 - 8
Soft roofing with continuous sheathingFrom 1:10 and more9 - 15
Galvanized single seam metal sheetsFrom 1:4 and more3 - 6,5
Double foldedFrom 1:5 and more3 - 6,5
Ceramic tilesFrom 1:5 to 1:0.550 - 60
Cement-sand tilesFrom 1:5 to 1:0.545 - 70
Metal tilesFrom 1:5 and more5 - 7
OndulinFrom 1:10 and more3 - 3,5

Most often, soft roofing or ondulin is used to cover attics, since these materials are among those that have the lightest weight and are easy to install.


For example, you can calculate the weight of 1 square meter of roofing, where ondulin is used for covering, taking into account the sheathing and insulation - sprayed polyurethane foam. To do this, you need to find the sum of the weight of each of the materials and multiply by a factor of 1.1 (this factor takes into account the overlap on adjacent sheets of roofing material).

  • The weight of a flat sheathing, 20 mm thick (plywood or OSB) is 14 kg/m².
  • Insulation – polyurethane foam, 100 mm thick, has an average weight of 3 kg/m²
  • The average weight of ondulin is 3.3 kg/m²

We get in total:

(14 + 3 + 3.3) × 1.1=22.3kg/m²

To calculate the total weight load of the roof on the walls, you need to multiply the weight of one square meter by the area of ​​the entire covering. In our example this will work:

M = 123.74 × 22.3 = 2751.82 kg.

A lot - almost 3 tons - only very light roof covering with lathing and also a very light type of insulation.

But this is not all! Effective on the roof snow loads V winter period, plus wind pressure, all year round. These parameters are also necessarily taken into account when calculating the necessary wooden elements the design of the rafter system and floor beams, and taking into account the total load of the roof structure on the walls and foundation of the building.

— Then, the entire system is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is secured to the joists with staples.

— Boards or plywood sheets can be laid on top of it.


— Decorative covering is laid on them — it can be linoleum, laminate, parquet board and other materials.


Additional insulation can be created by laying an electric cable or infrared heated floor under the decorative covering. It is better to read about these possibilities separately in the article dedicated to

  • If the floor is mounted on floor beams, you will have to work from the side of the first floor.

— On the side of the lower room, boards are mounted on the floor beams. It is desirable that they be smooth; you can even use a floorboard for the subfloor.

— After that, a vapor barrier film is laid on these boards from the attic side, which will cover not only the subfloor, but also the floor beams.


— Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of it and attached to the beams.

- Then, logs are attached to this covering perpendicular to the beams.

— Another layer of insulation is mounted between the joists, it is better to choose mineral wool, since, when straightened, it fits tightly between the bars, leaving no voids.

— Then it should also be covered with a vapor barrier material.


If you decide to cover the floor with one of decorative coatings, then plywood sheets are laid on top of the logs, and then laminate, linoleum or other materials are laid on them. Again, nothing prevents you from using, for example, film floor heating in this case.

Installation of insulation on the walls and ceiling of the attic

Having finished installing the floor, you can proceed to installing the insulation on the walls.


— If material in mats is chosen for this process, then before laying it, sheets of vapor barrier material are fixed to the rafters.

It is fixed in such a way as to cover the entire space and deepen it between the rafters.



If the vapor barrier is fixed on the other side of the rafters, then the mats will independently adhere between two wooden surfaces.


— If one of the is selected, then there is no need to attach vapor barrier film. Waterproofing, which is laid on the rafters on the outside of the structure, will be sufficient.


Spraying polyurethane foam - quickly and efficiently, but requires special equipment and work skills

To use this insulation technology, you must have special technological equipment, or you will have to invite a specialist who will do the work in one day. It is not easy to carry out this operation on your own without experience - in order to complete the work without harming your health, you need to know the technology of the process and have the necessary protective equipment.

After the insulation work has been carried out, the walls are sheathed.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Attic wall decoration

Before you start decorating the walls, it is necessary to resolve the issue of electrical wiring, the cable of which must be well insulated using double-layer corrugated pipes.


After the wiring is done electric cable, you can safely begin installing the finishing material.

Usually used for finishing wooden lining, drywall or plywood with a beautiful textured pattern.

For any of these materials, it is advisable to rafter legs and vertical posts, make a sheathing of slats with a cross-section of approximately 20 × 70 mm. These guides are fixed in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. In addition to the fact that the sheathing of slats becomes the basis for attaching the finishing, it also forms a ventilation gap between the finishing material and the vapor barrier.

  • made quite simply. It makes the walls smooth and neat, ready for painting, pasting with traditional wallpaper or even applying liquid wallpaper.

Therefore, plasterboard finishing should be chosen by those homeowners who like to frequently change interior design premises.


  • Finishing walls with clapboard is a longer and more labor-intensive process than. For such cladding, a lathing with the above parameters is also perfect. The only thing you need to think about is the direction of the lining boards, that is, it should be located vertically with the sheathing oriented horizontally and vice versa.

If desired, after installation the wood can be varnished water based or give it a deeper color by using stain.

Wood is an amazing material that can create a special atmosphere in a room with the aroma of the forest, which has a positive effect on the structure and well-being of the residents. That is why natural lining is very often chosen for cladding the floor, walls and ceiling of the attic.

Video: insulating an attic space and finishing it with clapboard

  • You can come up with a wonderful finish using plywood. But only if it will not be covered with paint on top, then you need to choose a high-quality material that has a beautiful natural pattern. Plywood is installed much faster than lining, and makes the walls even, covering large surfaces at once.

This material can be covered with varnish, paint or any type of wallpaper, but you can leave the walls in their natural state, only by carefully cleaning out possible defects in the form of protruding splinters or burrs.


Building an attic is a rather labor-intensive and complex process that requires high experience in the construction craft. If no one has any idea about the above-described technological operations, then you shouldn’t undertake it yourself - it’s better to invite professional craftsmen to carry out the work. They will save you from unnecessary problems and will build the attic according to the project conceived by the owner of the house.

Video: example of construction and finishing of an attic

The attic allows you to significantly expand the usable area of ​​the house. At the same time, the arrangement of the under-roof floor can be carried out even in an already finished building. At the same time, financial expenses will be relatively small, because basic necessary designs will already be present, and you can handle all the necessary activities on your own.

First of all, you must make sure that the foundation of the house can withstand the additional load from the attic floor. If necessary, the foundation must be strengthened or an attempt must be made to transfer new loads to a separate foundation. At this stage, you may need professional help.

Solve the issue of attic design. The under-roof floor can have a variety of shapes. Wherein inner space the premises are determined by the features of the roofing structure.

The attic roof must be designed in a special way. You will have to get rid of the old rafters and related materials, replacing them with a new system designed taking into account the upcoming loads, angle of inclination and other important design features.

Thus, truss structure must be calculated and designed in a separate manner, specifically for your attic floor.

The most optimal roofing option for the attic floor is a broken gable roof. A gable roof will place a much greater load on the walls compared to a lean-to system. However, more convenient option You won’t find a roof for the attic floor.

Wherein broken roof will “eat up” the least amount of free space in the attic compared to all other types of roofs.

It is important that the gable roof has a sufficient number of load-bearing supports. Typically, layered rafters are used to construct such a roof. In this case, the elements of the rafter system must rest on load-bearing walls that can normally withstand incoming vertical and horizontal loads.

Before starting construction, decide what area the under-roof floor should have, whether you will insulate it and whether you need to install heating in the attic.

In accordance with your own preferences, draw up (order, find in open sources) an attic project with sketches, drawings, calculations and explanations.

The design documentation should reflect the following important features attics:

  • the presence of additional partitions and load-bearing walls;
  • number of window openings;
  • peculiarities internal structure roofs;
  • type of roofing material, etc.

After this, calculate the required amount of materials for arranging the attic. It is best to make an attic using the same materials from which the structure itself is built (brick, blocks, etc.).

If the attic is planned to be used exclusively for seasonal residence, you can make it out of more budget materials. Typically, wood is used in such situations. This material fits perfectly with most existing building materials and is perfect for furnishing an attic.

Start setting up wooden frame– roof basics. Select suitable locations for placing the blocks needed for arranging the partitions.

First you will need to lay out the exterior and gable walls. Proceed with the arrangement of the attic roof only after the construction of the house itself has been completed.

To assemble the frame, use a high-quality wooden beam measuring 15x5 cm. When performing each stage of the work, be guided by the sketches and drawings you have. It is impossible to explain everything solely in words.

First step

Strengthen the existing structure with slings. To strengthen the purlins, use special support blocks in the shape of the letter U. Blocks are installed and poured cement mortar. This strengthening will prevent further cracking of the walls.

Second step

Build solid gable walls and begin building the attic. After installing all necessary walls start installing the elements of the rafter system.

Third step

Install the rafters according to project documentation and make sure the installed system is reliable.

First you need to install the purlins, and only after that fix the rafters. First you need to lay out the stepped wall slopes, and then arrange the partitions of the attic floor. Be sure to make sure that the elements of the rafter system are evenly positioned.

Fourth step

Align the slopes of the gable walls using a band saw.

Fifth step

Nail batten boards to the rafters to install the insulating material. Secure the waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier, and then lay another layer of boards on top of the waterproofing.

Sixth step

Lay the chosen one on the crate finishing coat. It is better that the finishing roofing material is as reliable and high quality as possible, so that the attic is cozy, warm and safe.

After completing work on the walls and roof of the attic, proceed to insulation and interior design under-roof room.

A wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the attic. For example, mineral wool insulation, expanded polystyrene, all kinds of blocks, etc. are very suitable for performing such work. One of the most preferred thermal insulation materials is fiberboard. Using this material as an example, the procedure for insulating an attic room will be considered.

In the case of using slabs with a thickness of 1.2 cm, the thermal insulation characteristics of such insulation will be similar to the properties of a wall laid in brick, or finishing made of boards about 5 cm thick.

In addition, the slabs have good noise insulation properties. Factory treatment with antiseptic preparations makes the material resistant to adverse external factors, and the relatively low price allows almost everyone to buy such slabs.

Most suitable material for attic insulation - fiberboard

On one side the slabs have a slightly corrugated texture, and on the other they are smooth. To cut slabs, you can use an ordinary sharp knife. The material is not particularly afraid of temperature and humidity changes. At the same time, work on thermal insulation of surfaces using fiberboard will not take much effort and time.

Finally, you can glue wallpaper to the smooth side of the fiberboard (the smooth side is the front side) or perform another finishing touch at your discretion.

Walls

Traditionally, thermal insulation work begins with insulating the walls. It is enough to fix the slabs with nails. First, duralumin plates should be placed under the fastener heads. Place the nails themselves staggered.

If the walls are not made of wood, you may need to use other fasteners. Focus on the situation.

To attach slabs to plastered surfaces, you can also use PVA glue or various types of adhesive mastics.

Ceiling

At the stage of covering the ceiling, try to enlist the support of at least one assistant - the slabs have quite big size and attaching them alone is not particularly convenient.

The cladding is carried out according to an extremely simple scheme: the slab is carefully applied to the fastening point and fixed using T-supports made of boards, nails and duralumin plates. Wear safety glasses at this stage.

The floor can be insulated using two methods.

In accordance with the first method, the surface is first covered with a double layer of roofing material, after which fiberboard is fixed on top, and then the finished floor is installed.

In accordance with the second option, fiberboard slabs are nailed to the floor, and carpet is glued on top of them. This coating is very convenient. For additional convenience, it is recommended to impregnate it with a special composition that makes further maintenance of the carpet easier.

Before gluing the carpet, it must be unrolled and kept in the room for 7-10 days. Fiberboard boards are pre-coated with glue. After gluing the fiberboard, you need to additionally press it to the surface using boards and leave to dry for a day.

In conclusion, all you have to do is carry out a number of works on the internal improvement of the attic. Start from the ceiling.

Ceiling

The best option– arrangement of the lung suspended ceiling. Lining is well suited for the construction of such a structure. You can also use hardboard, plywood or other suitable materials.

It is more convenient to first make the ceiling to size, and then attach it to the crossbar of the truss.

Walls

Nail crossbars made of high-quality wooden beams to the rafter posts. Nail the chosen one to the frame finishing material. The best option is wooden lining.

Niches

In places where niches form (and they will definitely be present due to the peculiarities of the roofing structure), you can nail plasterboard or other suitable material, creating compact cabinets for storing various types of accessories.

Depending on the available space on the attic floor, you can arrange a bedroom, study, or children's room. Focus on the specifics of your situation.

Lighting

Consider the procedure for arranging the attic lighting. The best option is to organize local lighting for each corner of the room. This way the interior of the attic will be most expressive.

In matters of furnishing and further arrangement of the under-roof floor, be guided by your needs and capabilities.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself attic construction