The problem of cracking of plastic products is very relevant nowadays, when of this material Most of the little things needed in everyday life are manufactured.
After all, in fact, it’s stupid to throw away a completely new dustpan or bucket. It's just a pity for the money and time spent. It’s especially disappointing to throw away a favorite, albeit inexpensive, vase. To cope with this problem and extend, even if only briefly, the service life of plastic products, it is necessary to quickly repair them. One way to quickly and efficiently fix a leak in a plastic bucket or make a garbage disposal operational is to use a caustic substance called trichlor. Of course, it is not sold in all hardware stores and you will have to go around a lot retail outlets to purchase the coveted bottle, but it's worth it.
Trichlor is quite dangerous chemical agent, which is a light and very caustic liquid. Therefore, it is necessary to work with it only in protective gloves.
A small amount of the substance must be poured onto natural cotton wool or the same rag and wipe the problem area. In a matter of seconds, the plastic treated in this way will become soft and the crack can be smoothed out. If one treatment was not enough, the plastic is too strong or, on the contrary, very thin, then you can repeat the process, using a piece of additional plastic for insurance. After joining, you will receive a product without a crack, as if it never existed. At the same time, the quality of the patch is quite high. You can use the item for its intended purpose. There will be no leaks.
But it must be remembered that all work should be carried out in a room with open windows or outdoors. This is necessary so as not to get poisoned yourself and not cause harm to others. More in a simple way A quick way to eliminate a leak in a plastic vessel is to use paraffin. To work you will need a paraffin candle. It needs to be lit and when it starts to melt, bring it to the problem area. Paraffin will firmly seal the crack. It is safer and quite reliable.
After such a quick repair, the product will last for quite a long time, if you do not keep it near an open fire or in the sun. In addition, cold welding can be used. It will securely glue the product. After treatment you need to wait about half an hour. You need to wear protective gloves when working.
Since we deal with batteries and there is a lot of acidic electrolyte around us, we use plastic containers for storage. It is clear that these tanks periodically need repairs, so to speak. Plastic containers are not small in size and restoring their integrity using these methods is quite labor-intensive. Therefore, we purchased a manual welding extruder for more professional work. It is clear that it costs a lot of money, but its performance is higher and it welds plastic much more reliably. We actually bought a German-made extruder, but now we also have one of our Russian production, and we would like to recommend one of the models to you.
Chapter: Educational program
Writes Anatoly Nikolaevich MOSKALEV, Ekaterinburg
A metal barrel is one of the most useful items on our site. But time takes its toll, and gradually they become unusable. Should I throw them away?
Our dacha specialists confidently say: no!
In 1982 I bought 10 steel barrels with a volume of 200 l (inner diameter - 54 cm and height - 88 cm) to store water for irrigation. They served well at the dacha for 20 years, since every two years I painted them with waterproof paint. But nothing, as they say, lasts forever. Small holes gradually began to appear in the bottom and on the side cylindrical surface; I sealed them with cold welding and tar. But year after year the holes increased in size and their number grew. By 2010, all the barrels were completely unusable, no repairs could help them - not the barrels, but the sieve! Suitable only for collecting and burning waste, preparing compost or disposing of it in a landfill.
The idea was suggested to me by summer resident Yuri Stepanov: “Holes are not at all a reason not to keep water in barrels.” I decided to put this into practice and got wonderful result. I had to bring the idea to mind myself.
In the store I bought plastic garbage bags - 60 microns, volume 240 liters. It is very important that the volume of the bag is significantly larger than the volume of the barrel, and its perimeter equal to the perimeter its outer cylindrical surface (if more, this is welcome; if less, then no more than 2-3 cm - polyethylene is elastic and stretches a little). I think you guessed it: the water will be stored in a bag, and the barrel should only serve as a supporting frame for it.
At first I wanted to finish writing here, but after thinking about it, I decided: no, I need to convey some nuances, then you will save both time and nervous energy. The technology is simple.
Cleaning inner surface barrels from sharp peelings of paint and rust that can pierce a plastic bag.
We do this using a metal brush, or even better, a metal frame used to shave off the weeds (just use the frame mounted on the handle). And don't overdo it! Carefully check the inner surface of the barrel with your palm: if there are no sharp spots, just clean it. Any non-sharp protrusions do not matter. There is no need to paint the inside of the barrel - do not waste money, effort and time.
If you can’t smooth out sharp protrusions, or you want to insure yourself against troubles in the future, there is such a move: from thick polyethylene (cardboard, plastic, etc.) we cut out a circle whose diameter is equal to the inner diameter of the barrel or even slightly larger. Place the circle on the bottom of the barrel. We cut out a rectangle, the width of which is equal to the distance from the bottom of the barrel to its upper edge, and the length is slightly greater than its perimeter. We roll the rectangle into a cylinder, overlap the edges and fasten them along with threads.
We place the cylinder in the barrel. The circle and cylinder will reliably protect the bags from punctures!
For strength, it is better to use two bags. We put one into the other so that the corners on the bottom match. We put the packages on flat surface(table, floor) and expel the air from them, stroking them with our palms from the bottom to the top edge. Of course, some air will still remain, but it doesn’t matter. We align the upper edges and use narrow tape (8-15 mm) to fasten the bags over the edge along the perimeter along their upper edge every 10-15 cm. The length of the fastening adhesive tape is enough to be 4 cm. Now the interlocked edges of the bags will not move relative to each other, and we will get a double package. Do not seal the edges of the bags along the entire length - this is very important, and you will appreciate it later, since the air remaining between the bags will be able to freely escape when water is poured into the inner bag.
Place the double bag into the barrel. We bend its upper edge (5-15 cm) onto the outer surface of the barrel along its entire perimeter.
If the length of the bag allows, it is better to bend the edges as much as possible, but make sure that the bag in the barrel does not hang in the air, as the water will simply tear it apart.
To prevent the bag from sliding to the bottom of the barrel when we start pouring water into it, you need to wide tape(60-80 mm) attach the curved part of the bag to outer surface barrels. This is a very important operation, it is better to do it together. For example, a husband places a barrel on an inclined beam, a round block or a box and slowly turns it around its axis, and at this time the wife, slowly, glues the package with tape: half the width of the tape to the package, the other to the barrel. The operation requires care; the tape must lie flat and tight, without swelling or distortion. Of course, you can perform this procedure alone, but it’s difficult. In the photo next to me is a barrel, which I wrapped with tape absolutely alone (before this, the operation was carried out together with my wife as I described above). Look how great I did! And you, dear readers, I am sure, are incomparably more talented than me, you will do even better!
And here’s another very serious nuance! A lot of air remains between the double bag and the barrel body. You will be tortured to delete it. And if you do not remove it, the poured water, gradually pressing the bag against the barrel, will squeeze the air upward: the bag will swell, and since there is no way out for the air, it may tear as a result, or the curved edge of the bag together with the tape will pull the water inside the barrel, which is what happens. we had at first. The bag falls to the bottom, water flows out through the holes. Goodbye idea...
Having failed on the first barrel, I found the next way out. From aluminum wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm, we cut pieces 15-20 cm long and make hooks. To do this, press a piece of wire vertically against the outside of the barrel. The upper end of the wire should be 5-6 cm higher than the edge of the barrel. We hold the wire with one hand, bend it inside the barrel with the other hand and also press it tightly against the wall. A short part of the hook 4-5 cm long is enough.
Before lowering the double bag into the barrel, I hung one hook on each barrel with the long side of the hook on the outside. If you have inserted a cylinder into the barrel, the short end of the hook must be on top of it. When wrapping with tape, you cannot seal the outer end of the hook; the tape should be at least slightly above the tip. The hook will create two air outlet channels.
The bag will be pressed tightly against the barrel under the pressure of the water, and even if you scoop the water out of the barrel, the bag will still remain pressed tightly.
Please note: with this method, water is perfectly stored throughout the season. It is clean, there is no rust in it. It can even be used for washing clothes and initially washing vegetables.
The bags can be removed for the winter and stored warmly, for example in a city apartment, their weight and volume are insignificant. Polyethylene will retain its properties and last at least one more season. Saving! Barrels should be stored in a dry place after the season closes, and they will last for many years without any repairs.
By the way, to store water like this way will fit not just a leaky barrel. It can be any container, as long as it serves as a reliable frame for the package. For example, you can put together wooden box, the cross-sectional area of which and its height are consistent with the dimensions of the package.
I wanted to seal the letter in an envelope, but my wife said: “What if the summer resident is unable to buy packages? What should I do? And here’s her advice: instead of bags, you can use film for greenhouses in the form of a sleeve - bend the sleeve lengthwise, bend it across, lower it into a barrel, cut it at the top with a margin... Then, I think, it’s clear.
If we fill all the leaky barrels and other leaky containers with water, we will have something to water our gardens and vegetable gardens, and there will be good harvests even in dry years. I urge everyone to follow my example. I wish everyone health and sufficient water - the basis of life on earth (of course, God forbid you from floods).
Magazine “My Beautiful Dacha”.
See also:
When republishing materials on other sites, a direct hyperlink to www.domruss.ru is required.
3 actual benefits!
fugitive 08-04-2010 16:11
Friends.
Here's what happened.
After the Weekend Journey (Easter Procession, if you will), the collapsible canister was found to be leaking. Polyethylene canister from Tatonka. A small leak formed in the area where the hollow handle was attached - they filled it to capacity, 10 liters, apparently it barked while carrying it.
It's a pity for the canister - it's been like this for four or five years, it's a good thing.
And it’s no good to write off everything and throw away money.
That's the question. Polyethylene generally does not adhere well. Maybe someone glued it? And if so, then with what? I look at the device and think - either heat it, or glue it, or stick the base of the handle with epoxy slag (it seems like epoxy adheres to everything except fluoroplastic; I once had experience gluing plastic - polypropylene).
Before I break the canister, maybe someone will remember something? A?
ummka 08-04-2010 16:22
Try soldering with a regular electric soldering iron, and to relieve the handle, carry it in a light cloth string bag. We've been using a folding canister for three years like this
minorite 08-04-2010 16:29
I also soldered it with a soldering iron. I wiped it with gasoline on both sides, dried it, and with a small 25-watt soldering iron, carefully, like stretching polyethylene, “sealed” the crack.
After this operation, the wall was thinner in that place, of course, but it seemed to withstand water.
fugitive 08-04-2010 17:02
Thank you, colleagues.
Of course, like a normal man, I went through the question along the way.
You're right - welding. Is there some more chemical methods, but I don’t have such crap like a chrome pick.
But. While the canister was drying, I ran through the properties of polyethylene and something else. In general, it’s easy to cook polyethylene - no problem. Destructurizes and depolymerizes when melted, resulting in more brittleness at that location. And then there’s the load (after all, no matter how you pack the handle in a string bag, some crazy thread will still pull on the handle).
But hot melt adhesive, as it turned out, is a copolymer of polyethylene, it polymerizes just when melted and also has a lower melting point. Just what you need. I have several types, just found the most elastic one.
Once the canister is thoroughly dry, I’ll try to weld hot glue with a soldering iron through the fume tape (it seems to be fluoroplastic, it won’t stick to either the soldering iron or the polyethylene, so as not to make snot), without melting the polyethylene base too much. At the same time, I’m thinking about what kind of trick I can use from within...
evgenstr 08-04-2010 17:42
if the place with the hole does not bear a load, you can simply weld it with a soldering iron. if under load, try something like " cold welding", which, if memory serves, does not stick to ordinary tracing paper...
It would be nice to look at the photo...
ummka 08-04-2010 18:18quote: I’ll try welding hot glue with a soldering iron through fume tape (it seems to be fluoroplastic, not suitable for a soldering iron,
I would like to remind you that when heated above 200 degrees, fluoroplastic disintegrates with the release of phosgene group gas Susliks 08-04-2010 18:20quote:Originally posted by evgenstr:
It would be nice to look at the photo...
I think this is a standard canister:
fugitive 08-04-2010 21:03quote: I think this is a standard canister:
Absolutely right. Just bigger in volume.
There is a crack near the handle next to the tap cap.
I had to leave here. Just got back. Let's figure it out.
ummka 08-04-2010 22:00
If you haven’t soldered it, you can melt a piece of iron mesh into the problem area instead of reinforcement.
ZedkiN 09-04-2010 12:10
So cover it with epoxy or paxipol and that’s it!
fugitive 09-04-2010 01:20
They drove me around the house here.
Haven't glued it yet. Postponed until tomorrow. I will definitely share the result.
quote: So cover it with epoxy or paxipol and that’s it!
Not. It won't roll. Work on a polypropylene cover showed that epoxy adheres to it, but it is too hard. Without at least partially repeating the bends of the product during use, it either breaks and flies off, or a new unnatural bend is formed and again a crack... And then - due to the fragility of the resin, they will not hold the flexible section if they are “smeared”. The layer is too thin. If the part is motionless, then I use a thick clapper to glue it together. But it won’t work here.
And this despite the fact that out of everything available at hand, only the good old domestic resin, which is sold on the market for “pouring” (I can’t remember the name, like EN-8 or something like that, transparent-matte, without filler).
Imported "plasticines" in general...
Has the author seen this glue himself?
evgenstr 04/09/2010 09:04quote:Originally posted by Susliks:
I think this is a standard canister here
It would be nice to look at the photo of the breakdown site...))
If possible, use a patch made of the same material as the canister.
13mm 09-04-2010 09:31
I'm feeling sentimental today...
Maybe tell her “thank you” and send her to rest.
ek-burger 09-04-2010 12:46
IMHO after 4-5 years of use it’s easier to throw it away and buy a new one. stick it in one place, it will rub off in another.
Some kind of rodent bit me like this in the parking lot at night. on one of the folds of the accordion. sealed with silver epoxy tape.
proba999 09-04-2010 13:19
We have been using such canisters successfully for a long time, and we have used Tatonka and other manufacturers. It has been noticed, and not only by me, that canisters up to 5 liters inclusive last longer, 2-3 years, but 10 liter ones fail in the handle area, unless there is a puncture, of course.
Throw away the canister and buy a new one. And make a reserve. Don't take 10 liter ones, better a couple 5 liters each.
Very decent canisters, considering the volume and weight
No, don’t throw it away, repair it, post a photo report to the comrades, test it and then throw it away. For me personally, it would be relevant - renovation is not at home
HomoSapiens 09-04-2010 14:05
The place subject to the greatest load has cracked (at least that’s what I understood from the description), so it’s useless to repair without removing the load from this place, even if the place of repair itself remains intact; if it cracks nearby, it’s probably time. The only option is repair and simultaneous unloading of the handle.
ZedkiN 09-04-2010 20:57quote: And with poxyple it’s generally strange advice, however...
Has the author seen this glue himself?
Hmm... I used Paxipol and epoxy... and in extreme conditions (I sealed the radiator of a car, there was a fairly large crack and I drove it for more than 3 months, and you know, after all, the pressure is high and the temperature is decent). You just need to not just spread it, but also first apply a piece of cloth (this applies to epoxy).
GPMS 09-04-2010 20:58
I glue plastic using construction hair dryer and plastic sticks (for glue guns - I don’t know what they are called correctly). Use a hairdryer to heat up the plastic and glue stick. You spread the glue over the crack and heat it up a little more, it turns out that the plastic of the canister and the plastic of the glue stick are integrated into each other. The main thing is not to overdo it.
put 09-04-2010 21:17
And if you cut off the hollow handles: one mount, where the hole is completely, and the second one is cut off so that the resulting piece of tube near the canister can be soldered or glued by squeezing or with a cork inward using glue. And where the hole is: cut it flush and clamp it between two rubber and two metal washers onto a bolt and nut (you can probably use glue). Well, of course, carry it in a net or bag. Something like this. If the solid joint between the handle and the body could not withstand it, then a repair one, even more so.
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Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44
like this - provided that all the pieces are selected. Don’t suggest going to a car service center for bumpers - it’s very expensive and in general I want to try it myself
Ann 14-01-2010 11:49
I myself didn’t believe that it had burst plastic shelf from the refrigerator you can stupidly glue it with a hot-melt gun, and it continues to work perfectly. They just taped the seam and that's it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and “plaster” it with a layer of glue to make it stronger.
Well, of course you need to look at what kind of plastic, some stick just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13
How many pieces?
Sometimes epoxy on a fabric base works.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17
I don't know yet
TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22
dichloroethane sticks well... if you first dissolve part of this plastic in it...
but provided that this plastic dissolves in this substance...
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?
alchemist 01/14/2010 12:40quote:Originally posted by Sportsist:
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
buy a heat gun and apply heated glue through fiberglass or other reinforcement. Old buckets are made of polyethylene, everything will stick together.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42quote:Originally posted by Sportsist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?
yes how how...
You stupidly take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - glue it right along the seam, it sets quickly, after assembling it, glue the mesh on the inside, fiberglass along the seams.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43
forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then polyethylene is there with a large share probability, or polypropylene, and EDC will not take it.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13
Dichloroethane most likely won’t work here... What is a heat gun? In my understanding, this is a Chinese piece of junk for 50 rubles, which spits hot-melt adhesive (hot-melt adhesive in rods)
alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18
yeah, that's it, the casing will be heavily loaded with heat? if yes, then there is dandyl heat-resistant compound
Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49
How much heat is the casing on outboard motor? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. You should try hot melt glue with mesh.
makarkharp 14-01-2010 15:24
I saw somewhere on motorcycle sites a comprehensive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that it was even duplicated here... search, maybe you’ll find it.
alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25
then there is a supply, take rods from 160 and that’s it.
I have experience in repairing two FUCKING holes in the plastic of the radiator using Dandil compound, heat-resistant, black. It collapsed like a monolith, and withstood the shaking blows with honor.
Insert a plastic bag into the bucket.
The small size of the crack will prevent water from leaking through the bag. If the bucket is stationary, then this is the best method in terms of simplicity and implementation. This is how I repaired it plastic barrel. The instillation of molten polyethylene begins to proceed when deformed.
I haven’t tried to seal plastic buckets myself, but I have seen how it’s done. Take an ordinary plastic bag and, using a soldering iron, seal the crack with it, smearing it. You can also do this with a piece of plastic using a soldering iron. At the dacha they watered with such a bucket: the water did not leak.
Try sealing it using cold welding. If it holds water in the car radiator, then it will probably hold plastic. But I tried to melt it, but it doesn’t work, some of the plastics now being produced are incorrect))) You’ll excuse me, previous authors.
So, how to repair a hole or crack in a plastic bucket? I don’t know, what about soldering plastic, small holes in a plastic bucket can still be soldered somehow, but large cracks are unlikely to be done well. There are other options for how to seal a crack in a plastic bucket, I don’t deal with such nonsense myself, so I read it on the forum. To do this, you need to take some extra piece of plastic, then put it in some container (not a plastic one), fill it with acetone, close the lid and wait a little until the piece of plastic softens. Then add Moment glue and quickly seal everything.
And also, in special stores they sell liquid plastic in tubes, you can also use it to seal a crack in a plastic bucket or whatever you have...
Some advise applying epoxy glue to a degreased surface and fiberglass on top, and for reliability it is better to do this twice.
I would try to use a regular soldering iron in this situation! Carefully soldering the crack on both sides!) True, molten plastic would not have a very beneficial effect on the tip of this device!)
Hardware stores sell so-called welding for plastic products. The surface to be sealed must be cleaned of dust, degreased with alcohol and dried thoroughly. After this, prepare the welding: a small amount of Mix the mixture according to the instructions and apply to the crack with neat, precise strokes. Level the seam with a knife or spatula and allow time for shrinkage and drying. Do not deviate from the instructions, follow safety precautions and everything will work out as it should.
I had such a problem with a basin. A hole formed and I cauterized it with a soldering iron. The plastic melted and sealed the hole. It's been in service for 4 years now. I also repaired a bucket at the dacha. I simply covered the hole with chewed gum and smeared it across the bottom. All so-called repairs were done with outside vessels. Everything lasts for more than one year.
cold welding for plastic. Clean the surface from dust and dirt and dry. Mix the mixture for no more than 5-6 minutes with your fingers. It is better to wear gloves. Use a spatula to seal the seam in the bucket.
I once repaired a hole, quite a big one, in a plastic bucket using an old soldering iron. I selected a piece of plastic that was suitable in consistency and quality, and, heating it with a soldering iron, spread it over the hole, starting from the edges, gradually, allowing it to harden. The only problem is that overheated plastic becomes more fragile in this way. But for some time this was enough.
I think that if it’s just a crack that hasn’t yet opened up and turned into a hole, you can simply run a soldering iron along the crack from the inside and outside. This should be enough to ensure strength and restore tightness)
I tried sealing plastic items by melting and dripping onto the damage. Thus, it was impossible to seal anything. Then I just started soldering holes in the plastic with a soldering iron. This method can help seal the hole.
take a mesh from, say, a car speaker, cut it off required size slightly wider than the crack and solder it on the inside of the bucket so that the mesh is not soldered deeply by about 1-2 mm. solder a small piece of another plastic over that place, as if you flood this area and it will hold water, and you can sit upside down.
A plastic tank is a convenient water reservoir that ensures the preservation of liquid parameters for a long time. It is not destroyed by moisture and is not prone to rust, but can be deformed under the influence of external factors. What to seal with plastic tank for water? The choice of method depends on the nature of the damage and the type of polymer.
Before sealing a plastic water tank, you need to know the composition of the material that was used to make it. Depending on the source raw material there are the following types polymers:
To repair plastic tanks, there must be no water in them.
The container is emptied of liquid, and the damaged area is cleaned and degreased. Then perform the following operations:
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44
like this - provided that all the pieces are selected. Don’t suggest going to a car service center for bumpers - it’s very expensive and in general I want to try it myself
Ann 14-01-2010 11:49
I myself did not believe that a broken plastic shelf from a refrigerator could be stupidly glued together with a heat gun, and it would continue to work perfectly. They just taped the seam and that’s it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and “plaster” it with a layer of glue to make it stronger.
Well, of course you need to look at what kind of plastic, some stick just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13
How many pieces?
Sometimes epoxy on a fabric base works.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17
I don't know yet
TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22
Dichloroethane is a good adhesive...
if you first dissolve part of this plastic in it... but provided that this plastic dissolves in this substance...
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
buy a heat gun and apply heated glue through fiberglass or other reinforcement. Old buckets are made of polyethylene, everything will stick together.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42
Originally posted by Sportsist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?
yes, how... stupidly you take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - glue it right along the seam, it sets quickly, after assembling it, glue the mesh on the inside, fiberglass along the seams.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43
Forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, the plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then there is a high probability of polyethylene, or polypropylene, and EDC will not take it.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13
Dichloroethane most likely won’t work here... What is a heat gun? In my understanding, this is a Chinese piece of junk for 50 rubles, which spits hot-melt adhesive (hot-melt adhesive in rods)
alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18
yeah, that's it, the casing will be heavily loaded with heat? if yes, then there is dandyl heat-resistant compound
Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49
How much heat does the casing on a boat motor have? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. You should try hot melt glue with mesh.
makarkharp 14-01-2010 15:24
I saw somewhere on motorcycle sites a comprehensive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that it was even duplicated here... search, maybe you’ll find it.
alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25
then there is a supply, take rods from 160 and that’s it.
I have experience in repairing two FUCKING holes in the plastic of the radiator using Dandil compound, heat-resistant, black. It collapsed like a monolith, and withstood the shaking blows with honor.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 17:26
from 160 what is it? Temperature? Price?
alchemist 14-01-2010 17:43
temperature, the price of a kilo of rods in Leroy Choate is about 110 rubles, extrostronk
Sportsman 15-01-2010 09:44
I don’t know what Leroy is, I’ll look at our radio stores to see what they have
op-tu-mat 15-01-2010 22:31
which one did you mean?
demon 15-01-2010 22:40
cyanoacrylate type Loctite 401
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Even the most experienced driver cannot be insured against damage to the bumper of your car. If not you, then you. If it can be resolved through the insurance company, good. If the insurance doesn’t work, then there are two options: trust the professionals (here, too, it often happens) and shell out a considerable amount, or repair the bumper yourself.
It all starts with assessing the damage. Usually a bumper is not very expensive, especially if you buy a Chinese analogue. If the bumper is damaged quite seriously, then restoring it is out of the question - it will cost more. Repair work It is advisable to restore a plastic bumper if there is a small crack or cracks, scratches, chips, dents, or if a replacement cannot be found at all.
Before repairs, it is advisable to remove the bumper for convenience. The entire restoration process, right down to painting, can be conveniently performed on a separate stand.
— Remove the damaged bumper;
- Wash it well;
- Delete paintwork damaged area;
— Clean the outer and inner surfaces with a coverage of 10-15 mm on the sides from damage. The paint layer removed during cleaning must be at least 0.2 mm, since upper layer surfaces often change their properties during operation, which may affect the quality of our repair seam;
— Drill the ends of the cracks (this will prevent them further growth). This is the same as when repairing cracks and chips on the windshield with your own hands;
- Carry out the actual repairs - we will consider the methods below;
— Primer and painting will be required in most cases.
— Car hair dryer. This is a special device, in appearance and principle of operation no different from a regular hair dryer. The only difference is that the flow of hot air from such a hair dryer has more high temperature and may soften or melt the plastic.
— Soldering iron. You can use any soldering iron, preferably a more powerful one. Rosin and tin are not required, this is not the case.
— Metal mesh. These are sold in specialized stores. The mesh will allow you to hold pieces of plastic together. You can use an old air filter.
— Priming. A regular can of automotive primer will do just fine. If you have a compressor and a spray gun, then that's even better. Choose for yourself - it doesn’t matter.
— Putty. No matter how perfect you are at sealing the cracks, you will still need putty. The exception is if this place is not visible.
— Sandpaper. For rubbing putty numbers 40 and 80, and for rubbing primer already 800.
— Any rag. It will be needed when washing the bumper, and when working with a hairdryer, because straightening hot plastic bare hands are not always comfortable. It is also good to use gloves.
— A piece of an old bumper. It will be needed in exceptional cases when there is not enough plastic.
It may be advisable to buy a repair kit, which includes such items as sandpaper, various touch-up paints, and fillers. Such kits are not that expensive and may turn out to be cheaper than taking everything separately, since the kits use small packaging - why do you need a whole bottle of primer for a small crack? Also putty, etc.
First, a high-quality inspection is carried out in good lighting. Determine how many cracks, scratches, chips and dents there are on your bumper. We immediately calculate the amount of mesh, putty and other Supplies. It is best to do this before purchasing consumables and missing tools.
Now let's carefully examine the inside of the bumper. There you need to find extruded (in some cases melted) information about the material of the product. Depending on the type of marking, the following conclusions can be drawn:
PP type designations (PPTV20 and analogues) – the bumper is made of propylene;
mark PUR – polyurethane bumper;
PAG 6 (GF, ABS) – designation of hard plastics.
But this is not a complete list of materials from which car bumpers are made. You can also find parts made of fiberglass and similar carbon, but markings are applied to them very rarely and the most that can be found is information about the manufacturer. But if your bumper is made of hard (thermosetting) plastic or carbon fiber, then repair plastic bumpers This type of repair is different from repairing products made from other materials.
Cracks.
If there is a crack on the bumper, then we will need a soldering iron and a mesh. Turn the bumper over so the wrong side is facing you and cut the mesh. It is worth making oblong pieces 2-3 centimeters wide and the cracks long in size. Bring the edges of the crack together and solder one end of the mesh. We need to drown it in plastic, but don’t get too carried away, you can just make a hole. After this, the end of the mesh should be covered with molten plastic. Next, in this way, we solder the entire crack.
Let's evaluate the outer side of the bumper. If everything is ideal there, then there is no need to do anything. Otherwise, we pass through the mesh and along outside. The main thing is to hide the ends of the mesh so that nothing sticks out. When you sharpen the putty with sandpaper, you will regret the protruding mesh hairs.
Small cracks, instead of mesh, can be reinforced with staples from a furniture stapler. The size of the paper clips should be chosen so that their legs do not pierce the body. If there are no suitable staples, then you can take others and shorten them to the desired length. Use tweezers when soldering fittings, this way you will protect yourself from burns.
We place the staples perpendicular to the seam at a distance of 1-2 cm along the entire length of the fracture. We also fuse barely visible cracks and branches. Otherwise, in the future, due to vibration, they will develop into splits. To protect the staples from corrosion, completely cover them with heated plastic, pulling it from adjacent areas. After you fuse the bumper along inside, the front surface should take its original shape.
If the cracks on the bumper are large or there are fasteners nearby (places where the bumper is attached to the body), since the nearby surface of the bumper often breaks, it is advisable to tighten the crack with screws before soldering. A fairly simple but very effective method is proposed.
We take a suspension - it’s exactly called a “metal suspension for attaching guides”, there are such in any hardware store. We need it to tighten the crack with screws.
We cut it with a hacksaw or a grinder as shown in the photo, depending on the type of crack in the bumper. Usually parts 1 or 2 are used - the holes used are painted blue. Although it happens that when two cracks come together, piece of iron No. 3 is used. Below is an example of the location of the plates on a bumper crack.
In the figure, the working holes for the bolts are shown in blue. We drill holes in the bumper for screws, with reverse side We place the plate, insert a screw into the holes and secure the entire structure with nuts.
If you are repairing a bumper for the first time, then be sure to carry out this procedure from the inside (and it’s better not the first time either).
Place a plate on the crack. Through the holes in the plate, drill holes in the bumper with a drill with a diameter of 3.6 to 3.8 mm. Drill so that the drill bit is closer to the outer edge of the plate hole.
the drilled hole in the bumper must be countersinked so that the screw head “sinks” into the bumper. If there is no countersink, you can use a drill instead, with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the screw head. When countersinking, do not overdo it, do not countersink right through! But you also don’t need to make the hole too small. And one more thing - you can countersink by hand, just with your hand, make a couple of turns with a large drill in the hole drilled for the screw - and the desired angle for the head is ready.
We check the quality of the soldering. Stagger around the crack after it dries.
If everything is flimsy, you will have to resolder it. However, this cannot be allowed; everything must be done for sure. After healing the crack, the surface of the bumper should also be degreased and covered with fiberglass and then putty.
Dents
If the dent turns out without a scratch, that is, the paintwork remains intact, you are very lucky. You can straighten it in minutes. This will complete the restoration of the bumper. All you need to do is wet a regular rag, turn on the hairdryer and heat the dent on the back side. They usually warm up for no more than thirty seconds. Then we reel damp cloth onto your fist and begin to bend the plastic back. We do everything carefully and without using great strength. The main thing is not to push everything out. You can do several approaches with a break of ten minutes, allowing the plastic to cool.
In the case where, in addition to the dent, there is also a crack, we perform the same actions, but with the expectation of further puttying and painting the surface.
Chips and scratches
You can fight them with sandpaper. We take the largest one (number 40) and start rubbing. It is necessary to sharpen the pits, turning everything into a more or less flat surface. The hole, in fact, increases in diameter, but loses in depth. Then we will fill this depth with putty. It is advisable to use body bars if available, but you can also rub with the palm of your hand.
Detailed instructions for removing chips and scratches on a car - for those who need it.
A good result is obtained by using liquid plastic that matches your type of plastic on the bumper. Be sure to consult with the seller, first writing down the type of material of your bumper.
Apply masking tape (preferably self-adhesive fiberglass tape) to front surface bumper Mix the adhesive and thickener on the cardboard. Apply the resulting mixture onto the masking tape. This is done to level the surface of the bumper. Next, the masking tape is removed, and the surface is again cleaned and sanded. Liquid plastic is applied to this place. After the plastic has hardened, you need to sand the surface.
Putty
Let's prepare the putty by adding a hardener to it. After this, we will immediately apply to the place of dents (if the paintwork is damaged), cracks, scratches or chips. This is done naturally after the above-mentioned measures to eliminate breakdowns.
You should wait ten minutes before starting work. Let's take it sandpaper number 80. Using movements directed towards the left and right edges of the bumper, begins to rub in the putty. Sooner or later you will come to the desired result. Of course, you should respect the geometry of the body if the breakdown occurs in some not very convenient location. You can apply several additional layers of putty to make the surface more even.
We prime
Let's take a rubber rag, wash the bumper and let it dry. Let's check the result one last time. If you are happy with everything, then you can start priming. We take the cans or turn on the compressor. You need to apply the primer with movements directed, again, towards the left and right edges of the bumper. Basically, you need to draw a horizontal line when spraying.
Let the soil dry completely. After this, you will need to take eight-hundred-grit sandpaper and wash it thoroughly. This is done with a bottle of water. No matter how local the damage is, the entire bumper is completely washed out. It should become matte after drying. And the first layer of primer will be completely washed away, leaving only gray dots in the marks and pores on the putty.
Let's apply another layer of primer, which we will also wash off. Check the evenness of the surface under the lamp. There should be no small pores or marks left. The surface at this stage should be perfectly flat.
Now the bumper is completely ready for painting. We advise you to paint everything as soon as possible.
On the one hand, this method does not require great skills and abilities from you, but on the other hand, you must strictly follow all the instructions. Only in this case can you achieve a good result.
Procedure for carrying out repairs:
we combine the cracked parts, fix them with any quick-drying glue;
prepare the epoxy resin for further use;
take a brush and coat the area of the crack ranging from 5 cm wide from the inside of the bumper;
soak epoxy resin fiberglass mat and lay it on the prepared area. If such material is not available, the mesh used to seal plasterboard joints may be suitable. In the latter case, you will have to apply another layer of epoxy.
It should be noted that during this procedure it is necessary to repeatedly apply fiberglass layer by layer so that the approximate thickness of the glued patch corresponds to the thickness of the bumper in this area. Front side the product remains unglued. The putty used to hide solder marks and other irregularities must be designed specifically for plastic in any case. Next, you should paint the finished bumper and screw it into place. If you believe the statistics and try the method in practice, then in subsequent operation, if cracks appear on it, then in some other place, but definitely not in the place of the seam we sealed.
In any case, you should not forget that the bumper is, first of all, the face of the car and requires proper care and timely repairs. Will this be do-it-yourself repair or repairing a bumper at a car service center - it’s up to you.
I haven’t tried to seal plastic buckets myself, but I have seen how it’s done. 5. The neck is glued to the bath using hot glue. We trim the edges of the holes slightly with a drill of a larger diameter; there should be no burrs! 4. In the intended circle, drill 5-7 drain holes with a diameter of 4-5 millimeters.
ATTENTION! Washcloths and sponges need to be changed quite often, especially if they have lost their integrity and begun to crumble. Please note: You can bathe a child in a large shared bath only after pre-treating its surface with soda, baby soap or special detergents. Suction cup accessories must be secured before the bath is filled with water.
Water getting under them and detergents reduces the reliability of fixation.
This steel structure, adjustable in height at which the bath is installed.
In the design of the bathtub, the factor of its stability is important.
This position makes it easier to pass gas and makes colic pain easier to bear. The product meets all safety and hygiene requirements.
Microban is not released into the water and does not lose its properties over time.
The material of the product contains the Microban additive, which disinfects the water when bathing.
If the bath is stationary, then there should be anti-slip pads on the legs. The accessory provides the baby with soft support and prevents him from slipping. The sponge bath shape has a profile that matches the baby's anatomical contours. Its shape includes supports between the legs and under the arms. The anatomical slide is attached to the bathtub with suction cups. A hanging hammock, made of fine mesh, is hung over the bottom of the bath using hooks.
It is a removable stand that fixes the child’s position and makes bathing safe and comfortable.
The anatomical bathtub has a built-in support slide inside that follows the contours of the child’s body, so when bathing, he feels more confident. Armed with knowledge about the types and properties of baby baths and additional items for them, you will make right choice at the time of buying. To fall asleep faster, it is recommended to give your baby a general massage; you can watch a video tutorial in this publication.
This allows you to fix the baby in a comfortable position.
Very comfortable for newborns.
The built-in drain increases convenience. It allows you to quickly and easily change the water during bathing without disturbing your child.
The bath should not be too small so that the baby can use it for at least six months.
It’s strange that almost all the accessories are mentioned here, but they forgot about swimming circles - this is about swimming in the bathroom. And when the baby grows up, you can bathe him in a spacious common bath, and leave the nursery for future offspring. Swimming slide.
Therefore everything is available.
In some models, the stops are adjustable to suit the child's height. After use, it folds up compactly. Buying these items separately will cost less. But you can become the owner of things that you personally do not need.
