A diametrically opposite solution would be to install conventional wooden frames with single panes. The big advantage of this solution is the low price, but there are incomparably more disadvantages. The main thing is very high thermal conductivity. Gone are the days when heating costs were not taken into account in our country; now, in a market situation, this will be money thrown away. In addition, such frames need to be constantly tinted, tightened, etc.

A reasonable compromise is to install metal plastic windows . But the Customer did not want to see them in the traditional white design, so it was decided to tint, or rather laminate them to match the color of “golden oak”. Of course, this increased the cost somewhat, but left complete moral satisfaction, especially since, on the advice of the gene. Director of "Rus' Log" I turned to our partner company, where I received a very significant discount on windows.

Let us remind you that the log house is like Living being, lives his own life. In frosty winters and hot summers it dries out slightly, decreasing in height. In spring and autumn, on the contrary, it absorbs moisture and “grows”. Not to mention the significant shrinkage of the log house in the first 2-3 years. We must not forget about this, otherwise you will have to “pick out” your windows from under the sagging logs, or observe the surrounding nature in the cracks between the crowns (if you have rigidly secured the casing to the logs with nails).

To solve these problems there are cranial bars(photo on the right) which are inserted (precisely inserted - without rigid fastening) into specially cut grooves at the ends of window and door openings.

Please note once again that the height of the bars is slightly less than the height of the groove; this was done specifically so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the frame.

Everything is clear with the cranial bars - you can’t go anywhere without them. But how to attach window unit into the structure described above.

Now be careful. Elements of the external casing (and these are fragments of the same board 2 cm thick, usually about 2 cm wide - to be placed under the outer cut of the log house) are attached to the window itself! Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws. The outer casing is shown as number 1 in the lower left photo. Don’t forget to lay insulation between the casing and the window opening.

We attach external platbands to the ends of the outer casing with self-tapping screws (number 2 in the lower left photo). The bottom right photo shows the top corner of the outside of the window opening.

That's it, the window is completely ready. Of course, before installation it is necessary to properly paint the casing elements and trims several times.

Now I would bet front door, similar to the one shown in the photo on the right. Deglazing (dividing the window into parts) allows you to make the door safer from burglary.

Another problem that emerged after the door was installed - this is the height of the door.

At surveyor's departure, he traditionally counted 2-3 cm from the floor level and calculated the height of the door from this level. But the fact of the matter is that there was no floor as such yet, there were only floor beams. And a normal “pie” for a floor is at least 5-7 cm (lathing, plywood, finished floor, etc.).

Therefore, when, when installing the casing and platbands, I asked the builders how we would actually organize the floor in the future, then this problem came to light. The only solution was to expand the doorway upward and lift the doors. The result was a not very straight line of the door and window casings, but this is less evil than a door not opening.

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Windows in log house: even the hut needs good eyes

October 18, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

In this article we will talk about windows in a wooden log house. I will tell you which models can be used to arrange such a home, and also describe in detail their features, advantages and disadvantages.

And the instructions given at the end of the material will help you figure out how to install plastic window blocks in a log house yourself. This process has certain nuances that you should be aware of.

Types of windows used

First, let's look at what windows can be used for cottages built from logs. All existing varieties can be divided into several groups-categories. I have drawn a small diagram to help you navigate.

And now about each variety in more detail.

By material

I’ll start my story with a description of the materials from which you can make windows for a wooden home. There are three varieties that are most popular here.

Wooden windows

This can be inexpensive coniferous and deciduous lumber (spruce, pine and others), as well as valuable wood (red, oak, wenge, teak).

Not so long ago, exclusively wooden windows were used in private and commercial construction, but now they have given way to more modern designs made of aluminum and plastic.

However, many people use wood window units. And this is understandable, because such windows have many advantages.

Here it is necessary to clarify that all the shortcomings inherent in wooden windows that were installed in houses built in the middle of the last century have now been eliminated. If previously the described products were deformed over time, had many cracks and quickly dried out, now, thanks to new technologies, this is out of the question.

For the manufacture of wooden windows hardwood or laminated veneer lumber is used, which does not deform during operation. For glazing, multi-chamber sealed double-glazed windows are used, which have a low thermal conductivity coefficient and a high degree of sound insulation. The fittings on which the doors are hung allow them to open in any plane, including for slot ventilation.

All window blocks that are sold in construction stores, are treated with fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the material and prevent further spread of flame during a fire.

Modern plastic windows are far from the cheapest pleasure. The price of high-quality window blocks made of wood, even of not very valuable species, is higher than similar structures made of plastic.

Plastic and metal-plastic windows

Such structures first saw the light of day in the 50s of the 20th century, but their active use in civil engineering began only in the 2000s. Polyvinyl chloride is used to make window blocks, so the cost of the products is not so high.

A metal-plastic window consists of the following parts:

• profile made of polyvinyl chloride;
• galvanized reinforcing structure installed in the internal chambers of the window block;
• fittings for opening and closing;
• glass unit.

Due to the ease of processing of plastic, models of any shape, configuration and size can be made from it. However, in this case, you will have to take care of further textile decoration of the window. For example, buy curtains with beveled frames or something similar.

The window itself has many advantages and several disadvantages. For comparison, I made a small table.

In order for plastic windows to blend seamlessly with walls built from logs, the windows may not be white, as in most cases, but painted in other colors. Also, the surface of the frames can be decorated with films that imitate the color and texture of wood.

Aluminum windows

Windows made from this material were previously used only in commercial construction for furnishing shopping centers, production premises etc. But now they can be seen more and more often; they are also used in the construction of log houses.

The characteristics of the material are as follows:

However, to choose a suitable design, it is not enough to decide only on the materials. There are also other criteria.

By opening type

Another the most important criterion window selection - type of opening of the sashes. Unlike buildings of the last century, where they simply swung open to the sides, now there are many more ways.

The following options exist:

1. Hinged window. Classic opening option. The doors can swing open only in one plane, which depends on the mounted fittings. You can swing them left and right, out and in, as well as up. Didn't meet downstairs.

The disadvantage of this solution is that to open the window it is necessary to provide free space. You will also have to remove all items placed on the windowsill and near the window. And the last drawback is that there is no possibility of slot ventilation, which complicates the operation of the window in winter.

1. A type of construction when the window sashes are completely absent, and the double-glazed window is inserted directly into the window block. Usually completely blind window rarely used (for example, in pantries, baths, etc.). More often you can find one or several blind sections of the window, which are combined with opening parts.

Another option for using a blind window is the need to glaze a large area. For example, if you want to make a log gazebo with a lot of glass walls.

1. Thanks to special fittings, the window sash opens in a vertical plane, forming an access gap in the upper part fresh air into the room.

These types of windows are the safest from the point of view of use in children's and other similar institutions. It is impossible to open the window completely, so no one can fall out.

1. Tilt and turn window. The product is a combination of the first and third varieties. By turning the handle in a certain direction, you can either open the sash for slot ventilation, or open the window completely.

In my opinion this is optimal scheme windows for arrangement log house. You can open the windows in the summer, enjoying the sounds of nature, and provide ventilation in the winter, avoiding significant heat loss.

1. Perfect for a residential building, but more suitable for arranging a gazebo or veranda.

The product has two independent doors, but does not have a partition in the middle (it is called an impost). As a result, when you open a window, no details of the window block prevent you from contemplating the opening landscape.

There are also other windows, in particular sliding and folding windows.

Installation of a plastic window in a log wall

Despite the huge selection of windows, as you can see, the most popular are plastic products thanks to optimal ratio performance properties and cost.

Some nuances of the process

First, about the principles of installation. I note that the service life of a PVC window block directly depends on the quality of construction of a log dwelling. In particular, it is necessary that the structure completely shrinks and is preserved.

Otherwise installed products can be deformed and sometimes completely destroyed due to changes in the geometry of the walls and window openings. Therefore, I strongly recommend starting to install windows only after at least 9 months have passed after the completion of the construction of the “box”.

Before installing plastic windows, it is necessary to install the so-called frame (casing). It is made from boards and takes on the load when the structure deforms, preserving the plastic product from damage.

There are several ways to design a pigtail:

1. With a mortgage block.

In this case, in window opening A groove is made at the ends of the logs of the log house, into which a beam with a cross section of 5 by 5 cm is inserted. To avoid the embedded element falling out and to reduce the thermal conductivity coefficient, the structure can be insulated with felt, jute or flax fiber.

Then from edged boards with a cross section of 5 by 15 or 5 by 20 cm, a U-shaped pigtail is assembled, which is already assembled form installed in the window opening. At the same time, it must be attached not to the walls of the house, but to the embedded beam. Only the lower parts of the pigtail can be attached to the crown.

Between the top part of the window frame and the top log of the wall, it is necessary to leave a gap of 8 cm thick, which is later filled with insulating material ( Under no circumstances should you use polyurethane foam).

1. Spike monolith.

To make this type of frame, it is best to use laminated veneer lumber, which does not change its geometric dimensions during operation. Its cross-section should be 10 by 15 or 10 by 20 cm, depending on the thickness of the walls. A tenon measuring 5 by 5 cm is cut into the timber itself (that is, the same as the embedding timber described in the previous paragraph).

First, you need to place jute insulation in the pre-cut recess, and then insert the two side casing parts. They, as in the previous case, are attached only to the lower rim of the opening.

Then in top part of the opening, the last one (third board) is inserted. It is fixed side by side between two side casing parts. It is not firmly fixed in order to be able to “walk” during the further shrinkage of the house.

1. Into the deck.

The difference with the previous options is that the tenon is located at the ends of the wall, and the recess under it is in the beams of the frame. The size of the element protruding on the logs should be the same - 5 by 5 cm. The selected recess on the casing corresponds to it.

After preparing the parts, the protruding part is insulated with insulation, after which two side elements with a recess are stuffed onto it. The further scheme is similar to that described in paragraph 2.

The lower part of the parts is attached to the lower beam of the log house, and the upper element is placed apart between the side ones. A thermal gap in the upper part is also required and is filled with thermal insulation material.

1. With a quarter. It differs in that the casing box does not have additional elements for fastening. At its core, this method of installing a pigtail is a modification of the first type (with an embedded bar).

This installation method is used in cases where you want to make casing elements of a special shape. They usually repeat window quarter in standard buildings and allow for more accurate and visually attractive installation of windows in the log house.

For decoration in this case, additional decorative elements– – which decorate the uneven edges of the window opening from the outside and inside of the house.

Installation technology

From all the variety described above, I chose the third design of the casing of a plastic window, so I’ll tell you about it further.

Sequencing:

1. I am making two parts for the side elements of the casing. Considering that there are usually a lot of window and door openings in a house, I wonder how this process can be accelerated and automated.

So, for my work I will need a beam with a cross-section of 15 by 10 cm. The dimensions of the selected groove should be 5 by 5 cm. As for the length, it can be adjusted during the installation process. But the parts need to be cut so that they are 5-7 cm less than the height of the window opening of the log house.

The groove selection scheme is as follows:

• First, on the wide part of the beam, I draw two parallel lines at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Since the width of the beam is 150 cm, the width of the inner part will also be 5 cm, which is what we need.
• Then I set the cutting depth circular saw by 52 mm, after which I make two parallel cuts, focusing on the pre-made markings.

• Then I make many cuts (the more, the better) inside the marked part (there will be a recess there). The more cuts you make, the easier it will be to remove the excess wood.
• Then I take an ax (you can also use a chisel, but it will take longer) and use its blade to select large pieces of wood from the future groove. Thanks to the fact that I made a lot of cuts in advance, the work will progress very quickly.

• After rough work finished, you can start finishing. Here you will need a chisel. You need to use it to select the remains of wood from the bottom of the recess. In this case, it will no longer be possible to use an ax.

1. I make a ledge for installing the casing. As you understand, I will do it in a window or doorway. You will need a gas or electric saw. Remember safety precautions when working with it.

You need to start, as everywhere else, with markings. First of all, I draw an even vertical line along the ends of the logs, along which the center of the window block will be located.

In my case, the line falls exactly on the center of the end of the wall, but this is not necessary. You can shift the central axis to outside, then it will be possible to install a wider window sill inside.

Afterwards, it is necessary to set aside 25 mm from this line in two directions (the thickness of the ridge on which the casing will be placed) and draw two more parallel lines. They will be used for cutting.

The production of the comb itself is carried out as follows:

• First, you need to make two cuts from the end of the wall using an electric or chainsaw, focusing on the outer lines. The cutting depth should be about 5.5 cm. If you do less, the casing will not sit completely on the tenon. If it is larger, the window opening will not look very nice. More precisely, very ugly.

• Then you can move on to the external and inner surface walls Set aside a distance of 55 mm on the surface of the log, draw a vertical line, and then make a cut. If everything is done correctly, then part of the wood will immediately fall off and, as a result, a spike will form, on which the pigtail will be placed in the future.

• Usually, after working with a saw, you do not need to further process the tenon with a chisel, but if you find some defect, you can correct it with this tool.

1. I'm making the top part of the casing. It will be somewhat different from the generally accepted one, but this way, in my opinion, it will be even stronger. The point is that it will not be installed in space between the side parts, but directly on the tenon selected in the walls.

How to do it:

• I take a well-dried board (so that it does not move during the drying process) measuring 15 by 4 cm with evenly cut ends. Its length should correspond to the distance between the ridges at the ends of the window opening plus 5 cm on each side.
• I make cutouts in the sidewalls that follow the shape of the spike. It turns out that at the end of the board I cut out a square inside with a side of 5 cm, which is also 5 cm away from the long edge.

• I place the prepared board on the ridges of the window opening. To do this, you first need to put on one edge, then place the board diagonally and put it on the other edge. Then, tapping on the board, you need to move it to the top of the opening, placing it at a distance of 5 cm from the top beam.

1. I am installing the vertical parts of the frame. To do this, from the prepared timber with the selected recess, I cut out two parts, the length of which corresponds to the distance between the upper installed board (see point 3) and the lower edge (log) of the window opening.

Then you need to install these details:

• I put it on the crest of the wall. You can, as I said, use tow, jute or others thermal insulation materials. The insulation not only reduces heat loss through the window opening, but also serves as a seal for the window frame, and also avoids the occurrence of unpleasant squeaks during the operation of the home.

• Then I put two vertical parts of the future pigtail on top of the insulated comb. To make them fit tightly, I use a hammer (the main thing is not to make noticeable dents on the surface). The pigtail should fit tightly so that there is only a gap of a few millimeters between the timber and the log (this is possible if you did all the previous work correctly and carefully).

Pay special attention to securing the parts to each other. You only need to use self-tapping screws to screw together the vertical beams and the horizontal board, never getting into a tenon on the wall. Otherwise it will be tough related design, which is what we are trying to avoid with the help of a pigtail.

1. I am installing a plastic window. It is already mounted in the casing and the scheme itself is not much different from attaching a PVC block to mineral wall. However, I will point out a few nuances:

• The ordered finished window block must be inserted into the window opening with a frame. Since its dimensions will be smaller than the height of the window, it is necessary to substitute wooden blocks, which will hold the part in place until installation is completed.

• After alignment, you can screw the block onto the brackets. Again, make sure that the screws only go into the casing, without affecting the main walls of the home. Otherwise, the block may become deformed during the shrinkage of the house.

Then all that remains is to execute final installation, foaming the gaps between the window frame and the window with polyurethane polyurethane foam. The gap between the casing and the wall (above) is insulated with tow or jute, and not with foam.

Some methods of combining plastic windows with a window opening require special consideration. This is, of course, not about visual combination, but about how to install these plastic windows in window openings. For example, typical way installation is strictly not applicable when installing windows from PVC profiles into wooden log house or a cottage made of laminated timber.

How to install windows in a wooden house correctly?

The key to the long service life of PVC windows in a wooden house is, firstly, the quality of construction of the building itself - that is, the house. If you are a builder, then you probably don’t need to explain what shrinkage is and why conservation is needed wooden house. For those who don’t know, let us inform you that in order for the house to “not warp”, so that the window openings do not “walk”, it is important to let it stand so that the logs (or beams) from which the building is built can get rid of excess moisture and acquire some semblance of static.

Only after following this important condition, you can start finishing, or rather, installing windows. This condition, let us make a reservation, should be put forward when installing windows not only in the house, but also windows in the bathhouse, gazebos, and for other buildings of small architectural forms made of wood, logs and timber.

Technology for installing a window opening in a wooden house provides for the installation of a frame or casing in the opening(which essentially means the same thing) from boards, which will take the load from wooden elements to myself.

There are several basic types of casing (casing) device. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Video on installing plastic windows in a wooden house.

PVC windows are salvation from cold, drafts and noise. But to window design served properly, it is not enough to choose a quality product, the correct installation of plastic windows is also important.

Installation in a regular opening

1. Before starting work, the opening needs to be prepared: dismantled old window, clean off loose plaster, dirt and anything that will interfere with the installation of the window. It is advisable to maximize the walls in accordance with the horizontal and vertical. All large holes and seal the cracks with plaster mortar.

2. Remove the sashes from the windows and remove the double-glazed windows from the stationary frames. First, pull out the glazing beads (in factory windows they are usually not pushed in all the way so that they can be easily removed during installation). Place the glass units vertically on a flat, clean surface.

Correct installation plastic windows are available in 2 options: fastening with anchors through (see photo below) or on anchor plates.

3. Install mounting angles on the frame five centimeters from the edge.

4. Place the frame in the opening on wooden wedges and level it vertically using a level.

5. Mark points on the walls through the mounting holes in the plates.

6. Drill holes according to the marks. Secure the frame.

7. Foam the installation gaps, wait until the foam hardens and cut off the excess.

8. Treat the slopes from the outside, install a drip.

9. Return the double-glazed windows and sashes to their place.

10. Treat the slopes from the inside, install the window sill and trim.

Installation technology in a log house

Correct installation of plastic windows in a wooden house has its own characteristics. Wooden buildings tend to shrink throughout their life. This harms any built-in structures, primarily windows: the frames become deformed.

To prevent this from happening, windows are not placed immediately in the opening. First, additional compensation is made for them wooden frame- a pigtail. It performs two functions at once:

Protects window frames from deformation;

Windows installed in this way provide a kind of rigidity frame for the walls and prevent uncontrolled horizontal movement of the logs during shrinkage.

How to install a pigtail

Installing windows in a log house is possible in two ways:

Video “How to install plastic windows correctly”:

Grooves are selected in the opening posts, and ridges are cut out at the ends of the beams for an additional frame;

On the contrary: the ridges are cut out in the pillars of the opening, and the grooves are selected in the bars.

Attention: the timber for the frame must be a couple of centimeters thicker than the wall beams.

Instructions for installing a plastic window:

1. The comb (or spike) is made square section with sides five by five centimeters. A groove is adjusted under it, with a small allowance: before installing additional (movable) racks, the ridge is covered with insulation (jute). During the shrinkage of the house, the timber with the ridge slides along the groove and remains vertically oriented.

2. Horizontal bars with selected grooves are installed at the top and bottom to align with the posts. A gap is left between the top beam and the log to compensate for shrinkage. Upon completion of installation, it should be filled with tow or other similar material.

3. The lower beam can also serve as a window sill. To do this, select a beam of appropriate width.

4. After installing the pigtail, select a quarter in the bars and insert window frame. The gaps between the frame and the beams should be minimal. They should not be filled with polyurethane foam; it is better to plug all the cracks in a wooden house with tow.

5. Correct installation of plastic windows in a log house means that when attaching the frames, you need to select hardware of the appropriate length: they must securely fix the frame to the frame beams, but not reach the log house logs.

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