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Natalya Dishuk 02/12/2014 | 6340
If brown spots appear on the leaves of a lily, then the plant is suffering from gray rot. How to deal with it?
Gray mold develops especially often in climate zones with moderate temperatures and big amount precipitation. Most often it affects perennial flower crops (lilies, peonies, tulips) in open ground. The pathogenic infection accumulates in the soil, roots, bulbs, and especially on the above-ground parts of the plant when grown for a long time in one place. In summer and spring, the infection spreads from diseased plants to healthy ones through water and air. During the growing season, spores scatter and land on healthy plants and settle on the soil and weeds. Mycelium and spores overwinter on plant debris in the soil and in the rosette of leaves. The optimal temperature for their development is 16-21°C.
Gray rot often affects the entire plant: leaves, buds, stems, flowers and seed pods, and sometimes bulbs. Dark brown spots appear first, later fading in the center. On the leaves they become transparent with darker watery edges. The spots increase in size, merge, cover all leaves and cause them to die. When the bulbs are damaged, the same spots appear on the upper lobules. When the stem is damaged, the entire upstream part of the plant turns brown and dries out. Sick buds do not open and turn brown. In wet weather, all diseased parts of plants become covered with sporulation of the fungus.
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Nutritious lily bulbs are loved not only by rodents, but also by more small pests. In addition, the succulent stems and fleshy leaves of plants are affected by viral and fungal diseases that spoil appearance flowers and can even completely destroy them.
To cure a lily, you first need to correctly determine the cause of its damage. Read this article to learn how to determine which pest has settled on your beauties, as well as distinguish between fungal and viral diseases.
Lilies are affected by fungal infections that occur in many flower crops. Increased humidity promotes the spread of rot. improper care, absence preventive measures.
Of all fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous. Initially, the disease affects the lower leaves of plants, but very quickly covers all parts of the flower.
Signs
The first signs of gray rot are brown round spots, which during development transform into brown mucous tissue with a gray coating. Gray rot spreads in rainy and damp weather, as well as during sudden temperature changes. Affected lilies do not die, but only slow down in growth and lose their decorative properties.
Control measures
It is difficult to stop the disease, since the pathogen overwinters in bulbs and plant debris. Therefore, before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in a 0.5-1% solution of the TMTD disinfectant or in a 0.25-0.5% suspension of Fundazol. When the first signs of the disease appear, the flowers are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or another fungicide (Fundazol, Khom, Oksikh) once every 1-1.5 weeks.
Fusarium is a rot that affects the bottom of the lily bulb. A plant that develops normally during the growing season dies during wintering. The cause of the disease is dampness, application organic fertilizers containing fungal spores.
Signs
Fungal infection begins from the bottom of the bulb. At the point where the scales are attached to it, the lily bulb turns brown and falls apart. It is almost impossible to recognize this disease on a growing flower, since it can develop normally due to supra-bulb roots that are not damaged by the fungus. However, in winter the plant is doomed to inevitable death.
Control measures
Disinfect the soil with copper sulfate and formaldehyde 2-3 weeks before planting the bulbs. Soak the bulbs themselves for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. Spray the plantings with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol or Bavistin every 1-1.5 weeks. You can also carry out treatments with a 0.2% solution of Topsin-M or Euparen.
Phythium is a disease of lilies that causes rotting of the roots, as a result of which the development of the crop is disrupted: the plant does not receive enough nutrients and moisture. The affected lily loses its decorative effect and blooms weakly.
Signs
The tops of the leaves turn yellow and the lily dries out. The roots of the bulb become covered with brown spots.
Control measures
Remove affected parts of the plant. Before planting, disinfect the soil with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, soak the bulbs for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.
Blue mold affects the bulbs during storage.
Signs
White spots of fungal hyphae with a greenish coating on the bulbs. When digging up the bulbs, you may notice that they have turned yellow and their roots have died.
Control measures
Rejection of diseased bulbs. Compliance with storage rules. Ventilation and disinfection of storage.
Penicillosis affects all parts of lilies and causes them to rot.
Signs
Bulbs, flowers, stems become covered with a green coating. Sick plants are stunted and form weak flower stalks.
Control measures
Follow storage rules. When the first signs appear, etch the affected bulbs in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate.
This disease is transmitted through plant debris contaminated with fungal spores.
Signs
The first signs of the disease are small colorless spots that turn yellow over time. Pads of red spores appear on the surface of the spots. As a result, the stems and leaves of lilies dry out.
Control measures
Remove and burn affected leaves. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Zineb and regularly feed them with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Replant lilies in the area where rust-affected bulbs grew, no earlier than after 3 years.
Viral diseases of bulbous plants are spread by insect pests (aphids and thrips) or by flower growers themselves through infected garden tools.
A fairly common disease of lilies, which is carried by aphids.
Signs
Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses appear as light streaks and ring spots on leaves and flowers. As a result of the defeat, the lily's stem becomes deformed and stops growing.
Control measures
Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by the mosaic. Disinfect garden tools. In order to combat the disease carrier (aphids), spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos.
This virus settles inside lily cells. Most often carried by aphids from tulips.
Signs
The variegation virus disrupts the pigmentation of the petals, resulting in flowers with streaks, strokes, and spots of a different color. Diseased bulbs of the next generation decrease in size, plants weaken, and the variety gradually degenerates.
Control measures
Spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by the mosaic. Disinfect garden tools.
The occurrence of this disease in lilies is provoked by a whole complex of viruses.
Signs
Lilies affected by this virus are characterized by thickening and yellowing of the stem and the absence of flowers.
Control measures
Spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by the mosaic. Disinfect garden tools before any manipulations with bulbs and above-ground parts of plants.
There are about 15 types of pests that attack lilies. These small insects weaken plants and are carriers of viruses. Let's list the most dangerous of them.
This pest feeds on the sap of young shoots, which inhibits the growth of lilies. Eggs red spider mite can live in soil for up to 5 years.
Signs
The lily leaves curl and the plant itself gradually dries out. Upon closer inspection, white eggs and adult red spider mites are visible on the leaves.
Control measures
If a pest is detected, spray the plants with a soap solution, 0.2% Karbofos solution or an acaricide (Apollo, Actofit, etc.).
A bright red squeak beetle lays larvae on lily leaves Pink colour, covered with green-brown mucus, which can deprive the plant of almost all leaves.
Signs
Larvae and adults of the pest visible to the naked eye.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, Decis).
The lily fly starts inside an uncolored lily bud. Damage will become noticeable when the fly larva has already done “its job” and pupated in the ground.
Signs
Corroded pistils and anthers of stamens of flowers.
Control measures
Destroy damaged buds. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Ditox, EC, etc.).
The mole cricket eats the roots, bulbs and stems of lilies.
Signs
The presence of a mole cricket in the area can be seen by holes in the soil. If you notice that the lily is dying, and numerous passages appear on the surface of the earth around the plant, most likely the reason is the defeat of the mole cricket.
Control measures
Set up mole cricket traps in the ground. For example, pits with manure or slate shelters, where the insect will crawl to warm itself and lay eggs. Mole crickets collected in one place will be easy to destroy. Late autumn you need to dig deep into the soil to destroy the overwintering stages of the pest.
Like the mole cricket, the mole cricket larva eats the underground parts of the flower, which leads to its death.
Signs
White fleshy larvae are visible in the ground. When damaged, the plant dies.
Control measures
Dig the soil deeply before planting and select beetle larvae from it manually.
This pest lays eggs on the soil surface in May-June. The eggs hatch into young individuals that burrow into the bulb, causing it to rot.
Signs
At the end of spring - beginning of summer, small black flies begin to circle around the lilies, hovering in flight and making a characteristic gurgling sound. If you notice these pests, they have most likely already laid their larvae in the soil.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, etc.). In the fall, dig up the ground and mulch with peat. Before planting, dust the bulbs with Bazudin.
To reduce the number of pests, lily plantings should be kept clean, maintain normal soil moisture, remove plant debris, destroy pests, and spray plants with insecticides.
We hope that now, if your lilies suddenly begin to “mope,” you can easily determine the cause of their ill health, clearly identify the pest or disease, and “declare war on them” in time. Take care of your plants properly and don't let them get sick.
Lilies, people appreciated their elegance and grace back in ancient times, which we call the period “BC.” Until now, lilies that do not have a blue color, nevertheless, are replete with a variety of varieties that delight with a wide range of colors. Even the shape of the flower began to differ - lilies are ordinary, turban-shaped and even double. However, all this beauty can be ruined in an instant by a disease; it often occurs due to an oversight on the part of the owner, sometimes due to his carelessness and disregard for plants, and sometimes colonies of aphids or an ordinary garden knife, which was used to cut them, can become carriers of diseases that are fatal to lilies. diseased plant.
Do not thicken the plantings too much; lilies love space; they will feel better when blown by a fresh wind and warmed by the sun. If the plantings are too thick, this can lead to the appearance of gray rot. This disease destroys leaves, stems and buds, spreading especially actively in wet weather or when excessive watering. The first signs of the disease appear in the form of spots on lower leaves, from light spots turn into brown and grow very quickly, merging into huge ones covered with a gray coating. Just a couple of days and your lily may die, and the infection will penetrate into the bulb and may be transferred with it to the neighboring area.
From preventive measures First of all, we should mention the mandatory removal of plant residues in the fall, because it is in them that the disease overwinters. Before planting on your site, be sure to disinfect all unfamiliar bulbs in a foundationazole solution. Change the place where lilies are planted more often, this will revive the landscape and eliminate the accumulation of disease in the soil. And finally, do not overwater the plants, only water them in the morning and pour the water under the roots.
In spring, also for prevention, you can treat plants with a 0.5% solution copper sulfate, it is safe and effective, and in rainy weather You can cover the plants by constructing a canopy from greenhouse film.
Lily bulbs are also affected by another dangerous disease - fusarium.. Most often, the disease appears exactly where the bulb was damaged during digging, so careful, leisurely digging of the bulbs can eliminate its occurrence. It is natural to notice the disease on initial stage is possible only during the storage period of the bulbs, so check the storage often, revising planting material. If you notice yellow-brown spots on the bulbs, then it’s time to sound the alarm, because in just a week the bulb can rot, falling apart.
Among the control measures, the first thing that should be mentioned is the simple removal of onion scales that are starting to rot, or the treatment of the more severely damaged ones with a foundation solution.
Lily leaves, stems and bulbs are affected by rust. The first signs of this disease appear in the form of small, colorless spots on the leaves, which gradually turn yellow and increase in size. Yellow color is the most dangerous stage; it indicates that the fungal spores have matured and can be carried by the wind to long distances, infecting still healthy plants. If you don’t take any action, the plant and a dozen others around it will simply dry out.
Simple potassium-phosphorus fertilizers can get rid of rust from lilies. If you notice the presence of colorless spots at the very beginning of the development of the disease, then immediately remove these parts of the plants and destroy them. Spraying also helps. Bordeaux mixture, which is carried out on seedlings in the spring, and with mild damage, treatment with 0.5% Zineb helps.
Sclerotial rot is also considered a rather dangerous disease., it manifests itself in the form of uneven shoots early in the spring. The bulbs do not sprout because a white felt coating forms at the neck and bottom - traces of the vital activity of the fungus. If the disease develops a little later, when the bulb has already taken root and produced growth, then they will simply die off.
The fungus develops most actively in cool and humid weather, therefore, in order to maximally protect your lilies from the occurrence of such a serious disease, it is necessary to select only well-warmed, open areas with loose soil, perfectly absorbs moisture.
Unfamiliar bulbs must be pickled and the soil disinfected before planting. Sick plants or suspicious bulbs should be immediately removed from the site and destroyed. In the place where they grow, you need to dig a hole, remove part of the soil and fill the free space with ash or bleach.
Often other people are carriers of the disease. bulbous plants, for example, tulips or hyacinths, so it is better not to plant lilies after them.
Diseases affecting the roots of bulbs include root rot.. As a rule, at the beginning of the development of rot, the roots become covered with dark spots and then begin to die, which leads to lag and weakening of the plants and their subsequent death. Naturally, the roots are in the soil and it is impossible to determine the onset of the development of the disease from them, but signs of it also appear on the leaves - their tops begin to turn yellow and dry out.
For prevention purposes, we can recommend careful selection of planting material, regular disinfection of the soil with a solution of 0.4% colloidal sulfur, as well as the removal of affected plants from the site and their destruction.
According to the damage to the leaves, in early spring, by formation they are oval brown spots one can judge the presence of another dangerous disease - bacterial rot. If you do not start treating infected plants with fungicides, then within a few days they may die due to the active activity of the fungus, leading to rotting and falling of leaves and peduncles.
Bulbs are also affected by this disease; if you take such a bulb in your hands and try to lightly squeeze it with your fingers, it will collapse, revealing a rotten core that has an extremely unpleasant odor.
If an infected bulb is discovered, all those stored with it must be examined and treated with a fungicide.
Before planting, if there is a risk of such a disease, the soil and bulbs must be treated with any fungicide in a weak concentration.
However, in addition to common fungal diseases, which can be easily combated by observing crop rotation, ventilating and drying storage areas, not thickening or flooding the plantings, and using only proven planting material, there are also viral diseases that are extremely difficult to combat. Aphid infestation or dirty garden tools- and your pets will begin to wither and quickly lose most of their attractiveness. Viral diseases can manifest themselves suddenly, the color of the flower suddenly changes, it becomes ugly, the stems or leaves become bent...
It is necessary to combat viral diseases radically - the first thing to do is to dig up and remove the suspicious plant from the site, because in case further development viruses can kill your entire collection.
There are actually quite a few viral diseases, but the most common and found on lilies are the following:
transmitted from tulips variegation virus– the first sign of its presence is the spotted color of the flowers, which is atypical for the variety being grown. The disease is carried by aphid colonies and is also transmitted through cutting tools.
A whole complex of viruses causes the disease - rosette infection. It manifests itself in a sharp delay in the growth of flowering plants. The shoot becomes flatter and the stem becomes deformed, at the same time the leaves become bent and become chlorotic. The plant slows down and fades. The main carrier of the virus is aphids.
Well, the mosaic, known to many, is often effectively disguised as a milder disease - gray rot. The first signs are pale gray stripes and spots on the leaves, after which the disease seems to stop developing. The lily grows, blooms and can even exist for quite a long time, but in the end it will die, and the infection will spread further with the help of aphids or a cutting tool.
Fighting viral diseases, as already mentioned, consists in the mandatory removal of all suspicious plants from the site. Well, prevention is much more humane, so if you are growing cut lilies, be sure to have two or three on hand cutting tools. After cutting one flower, simply dip the tool in a disinfectant liquid (alcohol, boiling water) using another, and then repeat the procedure.
Using clean tools in combination with the fight against aphids and ants, which are their carriers, you will save your area as much as possible from the occurrence of very dangerous viral diseases.
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Caring for lilies after flowering consists of cutting them and covering them for the winter or digging up the bulbs and their proper storage. At the beginning of autumn, an examination of the stems, leaves and bulbs is carried out.
When diseases are detected, flowers are treated. To prevent the occurrence of diseases, the soil is enriched with fertilizers and regular feeding of lilies throughout the year.
At the end of summer, lilies, in their natural way of life, fade. The stem and leaves turn yellow and fall off, and some of the roots also die. Garden lilies need to prepare for winter.
Frost-resistant lilies are cut 15 cm from the root, sprinkled with a small layer of peat (up to 10 cm), and covered with fallen leaves in the fall. Oriental lily hybrids do not tolerate excess moisture. To avoid getting the bulbs and roots wet during the spring snow melt, the plantings are covered with plastic film.
Tubular and Orléans hybrids, some other lilies cannot be tolerated cold winter V middle lane. Their bulbs need to be dug up. All lilies require replanting every 3-5 years. Their tubers also need to be dug up and stored.
Once the lilies are dug up, they should not be left in the sun. The bulbs are immediately removed to a cool place. If the roots of the bulb dry out, the flower will not sprout when planted. If the roots lie under sun rays a short time, you need to cover them with wet rags and wait a while until they absorb the water.
Bulbs with roots removed from the ground must be thoroughly washed and treated in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole. To store the bulbs, you need to choose a container, often a plastic bag with perforations. The bulbs are wrapped in it without tying it and stored all winter at a temperature of 5°C.
Lilies, like other flowers, are susceptible various diseases. Caring for lilies after flowering includes curing them from dangerous diseases that the flower could have contracted in the summer or early autumn. While the lily is growing in the garden, only external manifestations of the disease can indicate the presence of ill health.
If you notice strange pigmentation or any damage to the stem, leaves or flowers, bulbs of any variety of lilies will not be left in the ground by autumn. Depending on the symptoms of the disease, after flowering, and sometimes without waiting for its end, treatment measures are carried out.
Diseases of lilies that need to be treated after flowering:
Botrytis - gray rot.
Fusarium is a bacterial soft rot.
Mosaic is a viral disease.
The appearance of slightly noticeable spots yellow tint, spreading along the bottom of the sheets, is replaced by distinctly bright gray spots, fluffy in texture. They gradually grow and cover the leaves completely, soon moving onto the stems and flower heads.
Wet weather allows fungal spores to completely cover all parts of the lilies. As a result, the entire above-ground part of the plant is affected. The leaves and stem become covered with brown spots and then fall off.
Prevention of gray rot carried out immediately after the lilies bloom.
The fungus multiplies especially actively in humid environments.
The most favorable environment is wet plants that do not have time to dry before night and moist, cool air after rain. The wind easily carries the spores of fungi that cause gray rot.
From strong wind or hypothermia, lilies become stressed, their immunoresistance is reduced, and as a result, the leaves are easily affected by botrytis.
Heavy rainfall begins in the fall, at a time when lilies are already fading. Many lilies are not dug out of the ground every year. Even when digging, you need to let the lilies stand for a while without flowers, so that the bulb gets stronger before the next planting. You can protect lilies from fungus after flowering by adhering to traditional preventive methods.
Before the onset of the rainy season, you need to install a wooden or metal carcass- just drive four pegs along the edges of the lily beds. Stretch plastic film over the pegs with a slight slope in one direction. Precipitation will not accumulate on the flowers and will not provoke the appearance of fungus. Do not use agrofibre as a cover; it allows water to pass through well. If necessary, water the lilies yourself only at the root in the morning.
If the plants are already sick, you need to immediately cut off the affected parts of the plant or its entire above-ground part. Affected vegetation must be burned or disposed of in another way. The main thing is that the fungus, whose spores are always present on affected plants, does not get into the ground. It will wait out the winter in the ground, move to newly planted plants and destroy new sprouts of lilies or other plantings.
In case of disease, a white, saliva-like mass will form on the tubers and roots. If left untreated, the aboveground and underground parts of the plant become covered with sclerotia. Such plants can be saved from disease. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the tubers with roots running water and soak them in a suspension of foundationazole (0.5%) or TMTD pesticides (1%) for 20-30 minutes.
If the bulbs are slightly damaged or infection is not yet visible, but there is suspicion of its presence, sprinkle the bulbs with sulfur and charcoal in a 1:1 ratio.
Soft rot occurs when there is damage to the bulb. Most often it occurs from improper storage. The best prevention is careful handling when digging and packing the bulbs, storing them in optimal temperature. A lily gets fusarium if it is not thoroughly dried after digging.
Bulbs and roots rot from heavy rainfall. Methods for protecting bulbs from high humidity on the street - the construction of a frame covered with plastic film. Some lily hybrids, for example Asiatic and LA hybrids, are dug up in the second ten days of August, since they are very difficult to preserve from moisture.
Along the edges of lily leaves, oval, elongated, white, sometimes black spots with white streaks appear. Leaves and flowers grow skewed, crooked, flowers and buds have irregular shape, sometimes white streaks form on them. Soon the entire above-ground part of the flower rots and dies. The disease is caused by aphids, mites and viruses entering the lily juice into the stem through pruning shears.
There is no cure for this disease, but preventive precautions must be taken. The stem of a lily is always cut off before wintering, regardless of whether the bulb and roots are removed. To trim the stem, you need to use pruners with replaceable metal blades, which must be changed after cutting each flower and disinfected in alcohol or boiling water.
Slightly but noticeably drooping, limp plants, even without characteristic spots on the leaves, may already be infected viral disease. At the slightest suspicion, you need to examine the plant very carefully; if none of the symptoms are detected, it is advisable to dig up the bulb and soak it in phytosporin (4 drops per 200 ml).
Careful plant prevention is necessary, as mites and aphids multiply very quickly. In spring they quickly fly from one flower to another. Over the summer, more than half of all plants can become infected with a viral disease.
The application of mineral fertilizers is beneficial for lilies. In spring, fertilizers with the addition of nitrogen are used:
ammonium nitrate 1 tsp. per 1 m²;
nitroammophoska 1 matchbox per bucket of water.
Liquid complex fertilizers- suspensions or solutions containing 1-3 active ingredients. For example, superphosphate - 20 g per 10 liters of water; liquid potassium fertilizer - 15-20 g of potassium chloride or potassium salt per 10 liters of water, in dry form 15-25 g per 1 m².
In summer it is recommended:
wood ash 5-6 times per season;
mullein infusion.
Nitrogen-free foods are useful in autumn mineral fertilizers
from the solution, mix 30-40g of superphosphate with 15-20g of potassium salt.
Organic fertilizers for lilies are contraindicated. They do not bring any benefits, but they cause the development of fungal diseases.
As a preventive measure against diseases, home lilies should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (1%) every 3 years.
Lilies are prepared for winter in two ways. Frost-resistant hybrids are cut, left in the ground and carefully covered with peat, leaves, and sometimes film. Lilies that cannot tolerate frost, require replanting, or are sick are also pruned and dug up. Each dug up bulb is carefully examined, if symptoms of the disease are detected, treatment is carried out, and if necessary, burned. Bulbs must be handled with care to keep the planting material in good condition.
For domestic lilies, you need to regularly introduce complementary foods and add fertilizers to the soil.
Proper care of lilies will help preserve beautiful flowers in your garden and home for a long time.
