Correct installation of a kitchen sink. Installation of a mortise kitchen sink. Installation of overhead sink One of the main places in design
tightness of connections;
hygiene of the installation. Diagram of a standard sink fastening to the countertop from below. Choosing a new one
invoice: mounting the panel on a special cabinet without a tabletop;
The following instructions on how to install a kitchen sink in different ways will help you complete the installation correctly.
Preparatory work Before carrying out work in the kitchen to dismantle the old sink and install a new one, it is necessary to shut off the water supply from the hot and cold water supply risers. Dismantle
: disconnect the mixer fastening nut, the connection, remove the mixer; disconnect the siphon from the drain hole, then from the sewer pipe, plug the pipe hole with improvised means; remove the sink.
Bracket mounting
self-tapping screws with plastic dowels;
brackets for attaching the sink. Step 1. Make markings. Mark a horizontal line at a convenient height. Horizontalness is checked using a building level. Step 2. Turn the sink upside down, place the brackets the way they will stand when
Step 3. Drill holes for fastenings according to the marks. Hammer plastic dowel inserts into the holes. Attach the brackets with screws.
Step 4. Install the sink, secure it according to the design. Connect the mixer and siphon to the sink. Instructions for their installation are usually included in the package. Make connections to water supply and sewerage. Turn on the water and check the connections for tightness. If a leak is detected, disassemble unreliable elements, dry them and reassemble them again, using additional sealing with silicone, carefully installing the gaskets included in the kit.
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Scheme for installing a sink into a countertop.
Overhead sinks are mounted in cabinets specially designed for this purpose, often without internal structures, in order not to create interference when connecting water and sewer pipes. The countertop in such a cabinet is the sink panel. Therefore, assembling the cabinet with your own hands should be carried out as reliably and correctly as possible. Inside the cabinet, if necessary, additionally install fastenings for jumpers that add rigidity to the structure. They can be made from planks or pieces of board and used as small shelves.
Tools you will need for work:
When choosing a place to install the cabinet, it may turn out that the existing water supply and sewage connections in the kitchen are located on the side of one of the walls of the sink, and for some reason it is impossible to carry them to the place from the rear, open side of the cabinet. In this case, installation of the sink will require preliminary marking and cutting of holes into which communications can be supplied (Fig. 1 a) and b)).
Installation diagram of an overhead sink.
The sink panel, which is installed on the cabinet, can be an overhead panel or slide in from the front. In the second case, the cabinet has grooves for the curved “slides” of the panel, along which it moves until it stops.
When installing the sink overlay panel on top of the cabinet, here are some brief instructions to help you avoid mistakes:
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A sink purchased for installation by inserting into a countertop should be selected with the template included in the kit.
Otherwise, marking and cutting out the hole for the sink can be difficult and not precise enough, which will lead to moisture penetrating under the sink and ruining the wooden countertop. Making a hole for a sink in a countertop from artificial stone you will have to trust a specialist. It’s quite difficult to do this with your own hands without having the necessary tool
for processing such material.
Installing a sink with your own hands is technologically quite simple. Some significant nuances will be described further in the relevant sections. Plumbers also charge inexpensively for installing a sink - the work is simple. At the same time, a washbasin and a kitchen sink are a responsible matter: not only aesthetics and convenience, but also the general sanitary and hygienic situation in the apartment depend on them. Therefore, before you undertake installation or order it, you need to thoroughly understand the designs of these plumbing fixtures and choose the right one for yourself. Let's start with the general technical features. The simplest siphon is an S-shaped bend of a corrugated outlet hose, rotated 90 degrees in a vertical plane. For a washbasin, in theory, it is quite enough: used water does not end up in the sink. toilet paper, sanitary pads and dish scraps. However, there is a “but” - when cleaning a sewer with a plunger, the corrugation plays a lot and breaks over time, and when cleaning with a pneumatic plunger (powered by a can of compressed inert gas), it often breaks immediately. Corrugations cannot be cleaned with a cable at all. Therefore, if the sewage system in the apartment is unimportant and you have to “break through” it often, you need a rigid siphon with an inspection (removable lid for inspection and cleaning), and in the kitchen it is absolutely necessary. There are two types of rigid siphons: an elbow with a removable hatch (obsolete) and a bottle siphon. The last one is two concentric pipes, of larger and smaller diameter. The smaller one is inserted into the larger one with a gap at the bottom. The bottom cover of the bottle siphon is a threaded hatch; outlet - on the side. Cleaning the bottle is simple: put on gloves, place a bucket, unscrew the bottom hatch and all the “bad stuff” plops into the bucket. You just need to make sure when purchasing that the outer pipe has some narrowing towards the top, otherwise the dirt may get stuck and you will have to pick it out. The pinnacle of the evolution of siphons and at the same time tulip washbasins (see below) is a decorative chrome siphon with revision (see picture on the right). Among other things, it is also absolutely hygienic and functional. But the cost is an order of magnitude higher than usual, the sewerage installation for it is only built into the walls, which is also not cheap, and installation requires professional work. Installation of the siphon with revision is always carried out before hanging the sink; corrugated siphon - whatever is more convenient for the location. In both cases, a transition collar is required from 32 mm (the diameter of the sink outlet) to the existing diameter of the sewer pipes, from 40 to 100 mm; you need to look locally. The best mixer is one with a ball valve and a swing lever. When purchasing it, you need to make sure that the faceted parts of the threaded fittings of the flexible supply pipes - henok - are located at different levels, otherwise during installation they will not fit on the mixer pipes. This problem does not arise in a mixer with separate taps. Henks are more durable and reliable than metal-plastic ones, but installing a mixer with them is only possible in an already suspended sink, which is inconvenient. Plastic henki in a woven fabric shell can be pulled out through the opening under the sink and attached without bending over and in the light, but they sometimes tear. How to properly install a faucet on a sink or sink - . Installation of the sink in the bathroom is carried out by hanging it from the wall using standard brackets and self-tapping screws in dowels. Remember that even a complete pedestal, from the bottom of the sink to the floor, is not a load-bearing part! Self-tapping screws must enter the body of the wall at least 70 mm, so we take them at least 100 mm long if the wall has plaster under the tiles, and even longer for thicker coatings. Dowels are propylene. Polyethylene is fragile, metal rusts, PVC cracks due to changes in temperature and humidity. Sometimes a sink with a cabinet is installed in bathrooms (see top picture). But it requires a spacious bathroom, dirt can accumulate under the cabinet and inside it, and the capacity of a solid-looking dressing table is actually small: a siphon with pipes takes up a lot of space, so this solution is more of a tribute to tradition. Installing a kitchen sink in terms of strength is easier because it has a reliable support in the form of a countertop. An exception is a sink with sinks under the countertop, see below, but these are practically not found in everyday life and require highly professional work for installation. But technologically, a kitchen sink is more difficult, since you have to work inside kitchen furniture, bent over, in the dark, and need to do carpentry. Accordingly, hired craftsmen charge quite a lot for such work. Therefore, if you are accustomed to tinkering, it makes sense to install the sink in the kitchen yourself. Installation features different types washers All modern plumbing Comes with standard gaskets. When working with them, the following rules should be observed: The latter requires some explanation. Separately, rubber and silicone last for several years, but together they are surprisingly durable. As it turned out, the point is the difference in their coefficients of thermal expansion: the materials all the time seem to knead each other, preventing them from hardening tightly and cracking. If the plumbing installation was carried out taking into account the above, you won’t have to think about leaks for many years. Sink installation height regulatory documents not strictly regulated. SNiP give recommendations of 80-85 cm, but this is based on average height data. Scandinavian construction sites recommend 85-90 cm, and in Trondheim, the homeland of the Viking giants, even 90-95 cm. In Ecuador and Colombia, where most of the population are short Indians and mestizos, they recommend, on the contrary, 75-80 cm. So do what is most convenient - in a small family you can hang it lower; in the Bogatyrskaya - higher. True, if you plan to install a washbasin with a pedestal, you will have to be tied to its height. The usual wall-hung sink is familiar to everyone, so let’s move straight to more modern varieties. Semi-pedestal sinks The tulip washbasin first appeared in railway carriages and exists there in its original form to this day. His distinctive feature not a pedestal at all, but a narrow, deep shell. It had to be deepened to reduce splashing. In the small bathrooms of apartments built in the post-war years, this design was just right, and for aesthetics (the siphon was in plain sight), the tulip sink was equipped with a pedestal. Appearing en masse in bombed-out England and Germany, the innovation spread widely throughout the world, and soon all the shells on the pedestal began to be called tulips, although they already looked no more like a tulip than a dahlia or odontoglossum orchid. Long-term and extensive practice has shown that the tulip, in general, did not justify itself, primarily from a sanitary and hygienic point of view. The cavity in the pedestal is a favorite habitat of small domestic animals, and under a microscope, smears from the floor along the perimeter of the pedestal can make even a seasoned sanitary doctor's face stretch out. Modern sanitation and hygiene are based on the fact that the floor in the bathroom and toilet should be as free and accessible for cleaning as possible. Any, even the smallest nook, becomes a source of infection, which is why tulip shells in Lately are being replaced by sinks with a half-pedestal - half-tulips (see figure), no less aesthetic, but not cluttering the floor. Half-tulips have one drawback: to clean the siphon, you have to remove either the entire shell (in the picture below) or its rather heavy and fragile part in the air, risking dropping it and breaking it (in the picture above). But the washbasin siphon gets clogged extremely rarely, so this drawback is very relative. It is completely eliminated in sinks with a decorative siphon-semi-pedestal, which are mentioned above. Washbasin above washing machine(see figure on the right) is a relatively recent innovation and, I must say, it was invented superbly. Everything ingenious is simple - for centuries no one even guessed that it was quite possible to place the grille of a washbasin behind the bowl or in its far corner. For residents small apartments This solution is just a godsend. Unfortunately, the price of this popular product is still disproportionately high. But you can make a plastic sink yourself, and select a mixer with a siphon separately. An approximate installation diagram for such a sink is shown in the following figure. A siphon for such a sink requires a bottle siphon, with an additional pipe for connecting the washing machine drain. The double or two-cup sink first appeared as an attribute of luxury apartments with a spacious bathroom. But manufacturers soon realized that a double washbasin, to paraphrase Ostap Bender, is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene: most of all, it is needed in a working family living on a salary. Here, the price of minutes of morning toilet on a working day is higher than some hustle and bustle in the bathroom. Double washbasin Currently, double washbasins with a total width of up to 80 cm are produced, which allows them to be installed in standard bathrooms. Ease of use (although quite relative) is achieved by turning the horizontal axes of the spouts by 45 degrees in different sides, see fig. The water supply and drainage from the siphons are common to both bowls, so installing such a sink does not present any additional difficulties. Recently, washbasins with heated water have been quite actively advertised. Although the supply hot water they really don’t need it, such a device is nothing more than the fruit of the tricks of marketers. Flow-through electric heating requires prohibitive amounts of electricity, expensive and complex rewiring for higher current, and the same for a shower. It’s easier to find or free a nook and cranny in the utility room. The main types of kitchen sinks are shown in the figure. The most common and familiar overhead sink; in the picture - on the left. It completely replaces the countertop; the methods and features of its installation are well known and described many times. The next view, in the picture in the center, is a sink embedded in a cutting table. Its advantage over the overlay is only aesthetic; installation is quite complicated, and the countertop must be made of water- and chemically resistant material. A mortise sink can be without a wing, as in the picture, or with a wet wing - semi-overhead. A template for cutting out an opening for it must be printed on the packaging of a built-in sink. Check when purchasing and, if there is none, do not buy: it is almost impossible to remove the template yourself; you need a height gauge with a parallelogram copier or a laser spatial scanner. Built-in sinks are also installed under the countertop (in the top picture on the right); This sink is held in place by overhead brackets and silicone. The tabletop should be made of natural stone or modified wood of valuable and durable species: teak, ebony, red quebracho. Hello, friends. In this article, we will look at one very serious operation, which greatly affects the quality of the kitchen set. We will talk about installing a sink. We will look at this entire process from start to finish with all its nuances. Before installing the sink, you need to decide in which part of the countertop it should be located. To do this, the countertop must be placed on the lower modules of the kitchen, and the box in which the sink should be placed, from the inside, must be traced with a pencil (along the countertop) to determine inner space for her. After this, you need to place the table bottom up and mark the place for cutting the hole. This is done as follows: To do this, you need to inner surface stick on the adhesive tape that always comes with the kit (plus fasteners and plus plastic tubes for draining). And it is glued correctly so that there is a small distance between it and the side of the sink itself (it looks like a gutter there) where the silicone is poured. So, when all this is done and the silicone is poured, the sink is inserted into the hole cut in the countertop (from bottom to top). If the tabletop is located, for example, on two chairs, then one of them can be immediately placed under the sink, thus fixing it. I would like to note that this is one of the most popular kitchen units to install. The fasteners that attach it to the tabletop are usually poor (meaning poorly thought out). Problems almost always arise with it (for this, you must always have spare versions of this fastener for installation). No matter how much we bent the tendrils of the fastener itself, it stubbornly jumped off the tabletop (and, of course, did not fix it). The easiest way out of this situation is as shown in the pictures: you need to insert a piece of chipboard, or something else, between the sink and the fastener itself. Thus, the fastener is fixed and, twisting, attracts the sink. When it is pulled to the tabletop, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between it and the tabletop. If they are, it means she is poorly attracted. That's basically all. This is where I end, see you in new articles. Kitchen sinks differ in material, size, shape, design and installation method. Overlay models are considered outdated against the background of a variety of fashionable mortise products. However, they have a number of advantages for self-installation and are still used in summer cottages and temporary apartments. In this article, we will look at how to install an overhead sink with your own hands, what needs to be prepared for this, and what installation methods are best to use. To make it easier for you to understand the main stages of installation, we have selected visual photos and useful video recommendations for installation. If we do not take into account sinks that are a thing of the past, which are attached directly to the wall on special brackets and do not require a cabinet or countertop as a support, all products for washing kitchen utensils can be divided into 2 categories: overhead and mortise. The main difference between the two types is the installation method. The first ones, chosen exactly to size, are “put on” the top of the cabinet, and to install the second ones, you need to cut a hole in the tabletop. From here it follows distinctive features expressed in design, material, form. Image gallery But it still occurs in cheap kitchens. It is installed on the box from above, and the box must have standard sizes, exactly matching the dimensions of the sink. The most common standard sizes of sinks are 600x600 mm and 800x600 mm, small-sized 500x600 mm are also found, they say there are also 1000x600, but I haven’t seen them. For fastening we will need plastic clamps (4 pcs.) These are corners with a jagged slot ending with a hole for the screw head on one of the sides. You need 4-5 of them. (often you have to take them separately, since they are not included in the kit). Now we move on to marking the clamps: place the clamp on the box and draw a line in the jagged slot with a pencil. Move the clamp to the side and tighten the short self-tapping screw (not all the way) 5 mm above the marked hole for the cap. This manipulation is repeated for each clamp. To waterproof the edges of the sink, as well as to attach it to the box, we coat the edges of the box with silicone sealant. Before installation, it is advisable to assemble the sink, that is, install a mixer and siphon on it, since this will be much more difficult to do later. We place the sink on the box, aligning it along the edges. We place the clamps on the edges of the sink (which lie on the end of the box), insert the heads of the screws into the holes and move the fasteners forward (as shown in the photo). The self-tapping screw, moving along the toothed slot, lowers the clamp along with the sink, pulling the sink to the box.Siphon
Mixer and fittings
Installation of a washbasin
The diameter of the screws is the maximum possible that the brackets allow. Remember that the sink of any washbasin is suspended, and the lever, even with light pressure on its edge, becomes powerful. If the diameter of the holes for the screws turns out to be less than 6 mm, then they need to be drilled out, or not to take such a sink at all, especially since such “alternative” products most often turn out to be silumin (very fragile) or plastic, fragile.Video: installing a wall-hung sink
Sink installation
Sealing
Sink installation height
Types of shells and their features
Tulip
Half tulip
Sink above the washing machine
Double sink
Heated sink
Types of sinks
When the hole is made, its inside needs to be covered with silicone, since this place is the most problematic place in the kitchen. It should be protected as much as possible from moisture getting inside the tabletop, since in this case, the tabletop can simply “tear” from moisture - and this is its complete replacement.
So, after the hole is “siliconized”, we begin to prepare the sink for insertion.
Please note before you buy a sink: The adhesive tape (which needs to be glued inside) should not be glued to it. It should come included. On almost all sinks in which it was previously glued duct tape, it was not glued correctly.
It turns out that there are two barriers at the same time: adhesive tape and silicone.
After this, fasteners are inserted into it.
There are situations when it simply does not fix the countertop, but slides off to the sink (which is what happened during the installation, photographs from which are posted in this article as an example).
But, you shouldn’t forget one detail: you need to practice installation, if possible, not for very long, since the silicone that was poured inside the sink, when it was pressed to the countertop, partially “came out” out. It should not have time to harden, since in this case, when removing it, you can also remove part of the silicone located under the sink.
At the end, you need to wipe off the silicone that has protruded from under the sink and the sink itself.
