Often, ordinary abrasive stones are used to sharpen knives at home. But their use requires special practice, since if the angle for sharpening is incorrect, the result will be disastrous. The blade will not have proper sharpness, which will require additional processing.
Layout of the bar relative to the blade
Before you start making homemade device To sharpen knives, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of specialists. At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the angle between the working part of the blade and the block. This can be done individually for each model.
The knife should be positioned strictly perpendicular to the direction of the block. The angle can be equal to half sharpening. This is due to the fact that during processing, grooves are formed on the surface of the blade. They appear due to exposure to abrasive components. With minimal tool grit, they will be negligible. But there will also be a small degree of impact on the knife.
In addition to this factor, when sharpening a knife with your own hands, you should consider:
It should be remembered that the deformation along the entire length of the working blade will be non-uniform. Therefore, when sharpening with your own hands, the “point of reference” should be the bluntest part of the knife.
The grooves formed due to the impact of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to the line of the knife. This is the main condition for proper sharpening.
Knife sharpening stones
The main component of a homemade sharpening machine will be a block. This is an abrasive material that, when applied to the blade, thins it, increasing its sharpness. Therefore, before choosing a design, you should choose the right bars.
The main indicator of the bar is the grain size, but the dimensions should also be taken into account. Ideally, the length of the tool should be no less than the length of the knife. This will ensure uniform processing and reduce the likelihood of defects.
To sharpen knives with your own hands, you will need the following types of whetstones:
The main task of drawing up a design diagram is the correct arrangement of the bars. Therefore, we will consider several options for fixing them relative to the knife blade.
For sharpening ordinary kitchen knives Two types of bars will be enough - with high and medium grain size. In addition to them you will need a touchstone.
Simple knife sharpening machine
The simplest version of the machine design consists of two pairs wooden slats, connected to each other using adjustable screws. A block is attached between these components.
The main condition for the manufacture of this structure is stability. While working, it should not change its location on the desktop. For better fixation of the beam, it is recommended to provide support strips located between the wooden components.
Despite the ease of making it yourself, this machine has a number of disadvantages:
The main advantage of this scheme is its ease of manufacture. The design is suitable for sharpening kitchen knives at home. Touchstone will be required as additional components.
The thickness of the wooden slats may vary. In fact, to make such a structure yourself, you can use any available materials.
Sharpening machine with the ability to adjust the position of the whetstone
For achievement best result It is recommended to take drawings of factory tool models as a basis. Their difference from the instructions described above lies in the rigid fixation of the knife, but this will require great effort to manufacture.
The design consists of a support table on which the knife blade is mounted. A screw stand is installed in a vertical position. A bar with a slot is attached to it. The whetstone is mounted on a guide rod. The sharpening angle is changed by moving the slotted bar along the screw post.
Features of operating a machine of this type:
The main problem with using this design is the long adjustment of the sharpening angle. This may affect the speed of work completion if several types of knives are processed. Each of them requires a long setup of the machine.
To increase the quality, you can use water or oil. They are applied to the abrasive surface, thereby reducing the impact of chipped stone particles on the blade.
An alternative knife sharpening machine
An alternative option for manufacturing the machine is to change the position of the knife relative to the stone. In general, the design is largely similar to that described above, but is much simpler to manufacture.
A movable fastening block for a pin with a stone is installed on the base. Two clamps are mounted on the same plane. One of them will be persistent, and the second will be adjustable. By changing the distances between the clamps you can adjust the sharpening angle.
The main disadvantage of this design is the wear of the bar in one place. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a long pin to adjust the position of the edge relative to the blade.
In addition to the schemes described above, there are a lot of sharpening machines that you can make yourself. When choosing the optimal model, you should proceed from the actual availability of available materials. It is also recommended to analyze factory machines. Often they are the basis for the manufacture of a unique design.
To get acquainted with the manufacturing features, it is recommended to watch thematic video material, which describes in detail a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands:
DIY knife sharpener drawings. Lansky knife sharpener drawing. How to make a Lansky knife sharpener.
I needed a sharpener to sharpen knives. Mainly out of curiosity, what kind of animal it is and what to eat it with. I can sharpen any knife with my hands, but the convenience and necessity of what kind of device in the household should be clarified. After searching the Internet, I found several suitable designs. The simplest and most famous of all was the LANSKY knife sharpener. Anyone can sharpen a knife using such a device without any special knowledge or skills. It is enough to understand the principle, but it is elementary and any knife will be razor sharp. As it turns out, the Lansky sharpener is quite expensive. 1400 rubles minimum for basic set
from a clamp, three stones and a jar of oil. The photo is presented below.
Damn greed: They ask for a lot of money for a sharpener, and there are three pieces of iron bent on the knees, two screws, and several stones. The hucksters are real. Additional sharpening stones can be purchased separately, but not yet.
It seems like you need a sharpener, but you really don’t want to pay money for it. Therefore, you need to do it yourself. I carefully examined the design of the Lansky sharpener and came to the conclusion that there are no problems making such a piece of iron at home from scrap materials.
The principle of operation of the sharpener is very simple and can be seen in the picture. By progressive movements of the sharpening stone we form a smooth cutting edge on the blade of a knife fixed in the jaws of a special clamp. Consistently changing sharpening stones with coarse grain to fine and very fine, we bring the knife to razor sharpness. Movement of the stone
By rearranging the guide from the sharpening stone in the holes in the terminals, you can obtain several strict sharpening angles on the cutting edge. But since the cutting edge of the knife can be fixed at different distances from the clamp jaws, the sharpening angles float. And they are, in fact, close to necessary. This, in turn, affects the cut of the knife, but only slightly so that the user does not notice the difference, so you can close your eyes to the floating angle.
I drew in detail my own design of a clamp for a whetstone on the computer. And I detailed the details. This design has a number of advantages. Sharpening stones can be of different lengths; a stone can work alternately on four sides, and not on one like Lansky’s branded stones, which affects the sharpening time. The greasy side of the whetstone can be quickly replaced with a clean one, but the Lansky stones will have to be cleaned.
I bought a pin with an M6 thread in a store, this pleasure cost 20 rubles per meter rod, I sawed off a 160 mm long pin with a hacksaw and processed the ends with a file, removing the burrs.
I made a guide from an electrode for manual electric welding, asked it at the welding shop, and they gave me several pieces without any problems. Electrodes can also be purchased at construction market, they are sold individually, they cost mere pennies, they give 3-5 rubles apiece. The brand of electrode is not important, the main thing is a straight, elastic, smooth and thin cylinder. I hammered on the flux and lightly cleaned it with sandpaper, removing burrs and flux residues. I bent it into an L shape using pliers and sawed off the excess with a hacksaw, according to the drawing.
Taking advantage of his official position, he ran to the machine shop, rummaged through a box with scraps of metal, fortunately there were a lot of scraps, and found suitable pieces of iron, made of some kind of raw carbon steel, type steel 3. I sawed it to size with a hacksaw for metal, processed the burrs with a file, and Marked the centers of the holes. Using drilling machine, drilled holes in the clamps and then cut the threads with a hand tap, not forgetting to add a drop of machine oil to the hole to reduce friction. I cut out the steps on the clamps with a hacksaw and adjusted them with a file, after which I sanded the surfaces of the clamps with sandpaper.
I washed the glands in soapy water, thereby getting rid of any remaining oil and chips on the threads, dried them and heated them over a flame. gas stove, buried in liquid machine oil. For this event I used a “fishing rod” made from an electrode for manual welding and a piece of steel wire found in wire supplies. The "bait" was clamps. Each part was blued separately. I cleaned the threads of any remaining oil using a long bolt and thoroughly washed the finished parts in a soapy solution.
I twisted the clamps and the hairpin together, according to the drawing, not forgetting to drop a drop of nail polish (he stole the bottle from my wife) into the connection of the left clamp and the hairpin. To prevent the pin from unwinding spontaneously and to eliminate backlash. After the varnish had dried, I inserted the stone between the clamps, carefully tightened the nut and aligned the guide pin with the bottom plane of the stone.
At a nearby construction site I found a piece of a regular metal corner with a shelf width of 90 mm and a thickness of 6 mm. However, such iron can be purchased on the construction market or found at the nearest construction site. If you ask politely, they will cut the blanks to size for a small fee or “liquid” currency. This kind of stuff is also available in bulk at construction waste dumps; at scrap metal collection points you can ask for a small amount of money, that is, finding suitable blanks is not a problem.
I redrawn the original dimensions of the Lansky sharpener for a corner 90x90x6 mm. Since I already had an M6 tap at my disposal, I replaced the threads in the original Lansky clamp with an M6 thread for my sharpener. The uniformity of fastener sizes reduces the cost of production of the structure. In addition, there were small stocks of M6 screws for an internal hexagon of a suitable size.
And I drew the entire assembled structure and drew a detailed 3D model of the sharpener on the computer. This is what happened
Having filed the corners with a grinder, I processed the cuts with a file to remove burrs and cleaned the surfaces of paint with a wire brush and sandpaper. I leveled the planes from unevenness with a file and placed sandpaper on a piece of chipboard to create an ideal plane. I marked and drilled holes in the horizontal shelves according to the drawing. Using a grinder and a file, I ground down the bevels on the jaws so as not to interfere with the movement of the whetstone. I carefully sanded the scratches with sandpaper. I removed the radii at the corners with a file. I found a long bolt and wing nut M10 in the fastener supplies.
I marked and drilled holes in the vertical shelves. WITH outside corner using a drill large diameter I removed large chamfers and bored out the holes with needle files to an elongated groove.
I screwed holes in the jaws and cut an M10 thread for the stand. The stand will be a large bolt with a nut. This bolt will secure the entire system into a table vise. A tightened nut on the stand will protect the structure from rotation and play.
I put everything together, secured the knife, that’s it, you can use it.
After several days of operation, I made minor adjustments to the design of the terminals. I drilled a couple of holes in the side planes and cut an M6 thread. I inserted spare screws into these holes. Knives come in different thicknesses, and the sharpener guide catches the screws. Selecting short screws from the supply of fasteners, I screwed them into place in the terminals. The reserve does not stretch the pocket and is always at hand.
By chance I got hold of a wing nut with an M6 thread. This nut makes it easier and faster to tighten sharpening stones on a stud.
For a complete set, I will purchase whetstones of various grain sizes. They are not expensive, from 20 to 50 rubles apiece, and are sold at any construction market or depot. Again, you can use Lansky's signature stones.
All that remains is to find a suitable box to store the sharpener. Gift tin and plastic boxes of sweets or cookies, which are widely available in confectionery stores, are suitable for this role. Finding the right one is not difficult. Gobble up some goodies for finishing the creation of the sharpener, and put the jar to work. To prevent the sharpener from hitting the walls in the jar and the stones from deteriorating, it is useful to glue pieces to the walls and bottom thick fabric or thin foam rubber. Or cut grooves in a piece of plywood and pack all the iron and stones into them.
The sharpener is on my desk, and I spent minimal money, mostly on whetstones. You can say that I only paid for the touchstones and the M6 threaded rod.
I don’t see any point in paying our huckster sellers. The sharpening takes several hours, half a day at most, and only because the paint takes a long time to dry.
In online stores, which is much cheaper than in regular stores, a Lansky sharpener costs at least 1,400 rubles. And here it’s practically a useful device.
Of course, the Lansky sharpener has a number of disadvantages, such as a limited number of sharpening angles, which are slightly compensated by the position of the cutting blade relative to the clamp, and the high cost of the branded product. These shortcomings can be relatively easily eliminated at home if you have basic plumbing tools, ingenuity and a little free time.
During the production of the clamp, when the terminals were almost ready, I was given a real Lansky sharpener. So, there was no need for a homemade device. Thanks KonstP. Terrible revenge, for this unconscious element, came in the form of delicious dark beer.
In the process of producing terminals, I came up with a simpler and more functional design for a knife clamp, but more on that in the next chapter of the Notes.
The finishing of the surfaces of the terminals is far from perfect, since there was no task to clean up the mess. The product can be painted, fortunately there is paint in a can.
Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using a special device for sharpening knives.
A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.
For efficient and long-term use of the knife the most important factor when sharpening it is angle between blade edges. During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and effectively cut the material.
Each blade has its own optimal angle:
Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the desired angle. While holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure required tilt angle cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.
There are many types of knife sharpeners, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.
All devices consist of two parts:
You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.
There are several types of stones on sale:
Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.
Oil The structure and shape of the stone resembles that of water, but its surface is the most oily.
Natural instruments are made from natural stones that undergo industrial processing.
Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.
Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working with them is not very convenient.
To make your own abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates with a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. Sandpaper of different grits should be glued to the surface of the plates using double-sided tape. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.
However, when using a glass bar, you should be very careful carefully tighten the nuts. otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.
It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.
For greater stability of the sharpening device to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber .
The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.
Instead of a sharpening machine, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.
Stages of making a sharpener:
This knife sharpening device has enough wide range degrees of clamping angle and is most convenient to use.
With your own hands, you can imitate a knife sharpening device from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. This knife is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and on the side there is a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod. This is a very convenient device with which you can sharpen any cutting tools very efficiently.
Required materials and tools:
The sharpening angle on such a device adjustable using bar and thumb. which fixes the part at the desired height.
Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing the appropriate option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.
IN household There are always cutting, sawing and planing tools. During the work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives and planes to a workshop, but this costs money and takes up extra time. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool with their own hands.
Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness above 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.
You can buy a device for sharpening knives or other household utensils at the store. Save time, but spend a considerable amount of money - good sharpening is expensive. 
By the way, there are different opinions about what the knife sharpening device is called. Emery, whetstone, whetstone, sharpener, musat...
These definitions may refer to the same thing, or various products? We will talk about this and how to make such a device yourself in the article.
Since the advent of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), man has been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Ages it was easy.
Homemade knife sharpener made by yourself. The knife cuts paper like a razor! A simple design can be made at home.
Soft metals were adjusted to any stone. With the advent of steel blades, special rocks, usually of volcanic origin, were used for sharpening.
Some of them are still used today: the American "Arkansas" and the Japanese "water stone". These are expensive devices, so most craftsmen use artificial sandpaper.
A simple whetstone can sharpen both the knife and the cutting edge of the plane. However, the quality will leave much to be desired.
The golden rule of sharpening: Each blade has its own edge angle, and it should not change along its entire length.
This principle lies in the design of all sharpening devices. By following this rule, you can make such a device yourself. 
In order for the blade edge to be processed evenly, several conditions are necessary:
For production you will need:
We assemble a frame from plywood, resting on legs at an angle of 15°-20°. We screw a 30-40 cm long pin into the part below. For strength, you can secure the thread with glue or sealant. 
We fix an aluminum plate in the middle of the working surface. First we make a groove in it, along the diameter of the fixing bolt. Why aluminum? To avoid damaging the steel blade of the knife.
We make a lever to secure the emery. It is assembled from the remaining part of the hairpin. We cut out the bar holders from two textolite bars. On one side the stop is secured with a nut. 
It is more convenient to make a spring-loaded block on the side of the handle - for quickly changing the sandpaper.
We use homemade bars as the main element - we glue sandpaper with different grain sizes onto an aluminum plate. Such devices are easily fixed in the lever. 
A special feature of the design is a hinge with two degrees of freedom. It is assembled from two identical PCB bars. One is screwed onto a vertical pin, and serves both as a horizontal rotary axis and as an adjuster for the height of the lever support (this is how the sharpening angle is set).
The second block, with a horizontal hole for the lever, is screwed to the first. This ensures free movement of the lever vertically. 
The knife can be clamped using a plate, or mounted on a neodymium magnet. When removing the first layer with coarse sandpaper, the blade should be firmly fixed.
For fine-tuning, you can install the blade on a magnet and sharpen it with little effort. The magnet horseshoe should be recessed flush with the table top and glued with epoxy glue. 
The homemade knife sharpening device is ready. We set the required angle of attack and sharpen the edge with smooth movements along the blade. 
Electric emery not only speeds up work, but also allows you to obtain a high-quality concave blade edge profile. This is the so-called dolovaya sharpening. It will not be possible to obtain such a shape on a linear block, so these two devices do not replace, but complement each other.
Important! If, when working with a manual sharpening device, you completely control the intensity of the process, then the high speed of rotation of the emery wheel can damage the knife.
Due to friction, the metal on the tip heats up, and hardening occurs. Steel loses hardness and wears off torn edges. Another problem is that a “released” knife quickly loses its sharpness. Therefore, you should work with an electric sharpener carefully. Bring the blade to a short time, and take breaks to cool down.
Do-it-yourself knife sharpener - video with explanations and manufacturing example
In this mode it is difficult to maintain a constant angle, so fixing the knife is mandatory. 
The design is quite simple - along the axis of rotation of the emery there is a guide along which the carriage with the knife moves. The angle is maintained mechanically, and the force is determined by the operator.
The device is easy to make with your own hands - and it is not necessary to perform precise work on processing metal parts. The guide is literally made from the base material. 
On the workbench, next to the sharpener, guides are attached, with the help of which you can change the distance from the knife stop to the rotating circle. This distance determines the sharpening angle. The vertical rod must have free movement up and down with a strong position fixation. 
The knife is held horizontally, pressing against the stop. The force of contact with the emery is adjusted directly during sharpening. Processing occurs symmetrically, you simply change the side of the knife and sharpen at the same angle. 
This method is only suitable for processing classic knives. Kitchen, hunting, tourist. The cutting planes of other tools require a different approach.
Design for sharpening knives, say a jointer:
A specialized sandpaper with an end working surface is used. The guide for the carriage is located at the bottom, away from the axis of rotation.
It is in this part of the disk that the abrasive works most effectively. The guide with the cutting element is moved manually, the pressure is provided by the knife’s own weight.
Drawings of all structural elements are presented in the illustration. 
This machine was used almost 100 years ago, and the technology has not changed since then. Simplicity of execution allows you to repeat the device in a home workshop. Any materials - metal, plastic, wood. 
Instead of using the cutting elements of a jointer, you can sharpen the knives of an ice ax for winter fishing. Only the angle is shallower. The scissor attachment works in the same way. The design (like the emery wheel) is significantly smaller in size.
You can also use an electric sander and a locking carriage to sharpen chisels and plane knives. However, these tools are compact and can be handled by a mechanical tool.
There are two equivalent methods - along the edge and across. The quality of processing is approximately the same, so it is impossible to give preference to a specific device.
The factory product involves transverse straightening of the blade. 
By analogy, we make a carriage from thick plywood. We use any rollers as guides, preferably more than two. By moving the machine along the sandpaper, you can give the tip of the chisel an ideal shape. 
If you don't need serious sharpening, a simpler device will do just fine for minor adjustments. Attach a block with the required angle of inclination to the chisels. Place sandpaper and a piece of glass nearby. Apply soap solution to the glass. 
The effectiveness of the device will pleasantly surprise you.
And for transverse sharpening, you can make an equally simple device. The guide is also a support. The blade is mounted vertically on the moving part. The only drawback is that the angle is fixed and is determined during manufacture. 
True, unlike a knife, deviation from the ideal is not so critical.
The same device is suitable for sharpening plane knives. Just because of the width of the blade, the process is quite labor-intensive. Therefore, you can use an electric sander with an end working surface.
The emphasis is made of a wooden block. All you need to do is change the angle. The clamp is provided by the operator, and semicircular sharpening can be performed - carpenters will appreciate this option. 
Of course, this same device is convenient for tidying up the edge of a chisel. Given the high performance, you will restore the tool even after serious nicks.
Homemade device for sharpening knives and tools from a sharpening machine
When you again manually rub a knife on an old whetstone, remember this article and create a homemade sharpening installation for your home workshop.
Every man in the house will benefit from a convenient machine for sharpening knives with his own hands. After all, the owner is often judged by how sharp this kitchen tool is.
There are many techniques for sharpening knife blades. For example, for a process carried out at home, only a turning block or ready-made devices with an angular gap shape will be sufficient.
To adjust expensive hunters' knives, European manufacturers produce devices in the form of solid bars, the basis of which is a high-strength alloy.
This article will describe how to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.
What is the reason why a knife becomes dull when cutting? This can be explained by the fact that the cutting edge is negatively affected by abrasive particles that are present in the material being cut. For example, they are present on vegetables and paper. Speaking in simple language, the blade is subject to gradual wear.
The next reason is the inability to hold the blade in the desired position all the time. Any trembling of the hand causes the knife to tilt, which entails a lateral load.
The sharpening technique consists of unified, but at the same time quite labor-intensive methods. The main task is to eliminate damage to the blade. It should be noted that for many, such a procedure as sharpening knives provides good location spirit and peace.
The basic rule in this process is compliance with the exactly specified constant angle. No force required here. The main thing is that the block and blade meet at a certain angle. This is the basic rule of the sharpening technique.
In order for the angle to have a constant indicator, there are two ways. The first is to acquire the sharpening skill. The angle indicator can be controlled using a regular marker. They should paint over the connections and, after several sharpening cycles, see how well the paint is preserved. If it is worn unevenly, then the blade is not processed well.
If the knife you are sharpening is decorative, then you should seal the blade with tape so that only the cutting edge remains open. Even if you misdirect your hand, there will be no scratches left on the blade.
An important point is that the direction of the blade along the block is perpendicular to the edge at the points of contact. This is actually quite difficult to do. It is acceptable for the angle between the edge and the blade to be less than 90 degrees. But when directed along the cutting edge, this indicator is not suitable.
The abrasive particles of the stone can leave grooves on the blade that will never be sharpened, but will play a positive role when cutting. If the grooves are oriented along the cutting edge, then they will be of no use during cutting. The worst thing is that the cutting edge may break off altogether.
It is important that the bar is long. It should be one and a half or two lengths of the blade. It is allowed for the diamond block to be somewhat shorter, as it grinds faster and better. Its width does not play a significant role. If it is wider, then it is more convenient to work on it and there is less chance of the blade moving beyond the limits of the device. It might damage him lateral surface or a blade.
There are homemade devices for sharpening knives different designs. All that is required from the manufacturer is availability the required material and tool skills.
The principle of operation of such a device as a manual machine for sharpening knives with your own hands is to hold the knife blade in a vertical position and drive it along a block fixed at the desired angle. This is much easier than placing the sharpening stone horizontally and holding the knife at the desired angle.
In order to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need a piece of laminate, a wooden strip, sandpaper and a pair of bots with wings. Chipboard or plywood can serve as a replacement for laminate.
To make a knife holder, you need to cut off some of the material. To prevent the block from touching the holder when sharpening, you should sand its edge at an angle using sandpaper.
It is necessary to mark and cut off the top of the vertical post, which will serve as a support for the block. The angle chosen is half that at which the knife will be sharpened. For kitchen knives, it is recommended to take an angle of 10-15 degrees.
A machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, the drawings of which are prepared in advance, requires the correct calculation of the length of the base of the racks. Please note that the height indicator will be affected by the subsequent installation of the transverse support. After this, all parts are trimmed and the edges are cleaned.
Holes are marked and drilled in the base and plate for pressing the bolts that secure the blade. When marking, the distance of the holes from the edge of the base is maintained. This is necessary for the versatility of the device, since all knives have their own width. The pressure plate is secured with bolts.
Vertical posts are secured with screws. It is also taken into account that the load on the bottom is small. In this case, it is better to resort to using thermal glue. The horizontal crossbar is attached in exactly this way. The sharpening device is almost ready. All that remains is to make the block.
To make it, a strip of the required length is cut. Sandpaper is glued to one edge with the right size abrasive To optimize the result, you can resort to making several bars with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered the best. To protect your hands from cuts, you need to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.
The result is a homemade machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, characterized by high functionality and practicality. When working, the device rests against the edge of the table, which is quite comfortable when using it.
There are also other types of machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. In this case, it is based on an M8 threaded rod. Two large washers and nuts are used, which serve to hold a bar 200 mm long.
Heat shrink tubing covers the threads. A pair of paper clips serve to secure the guide stand at the desired height. This ensures smooth adjustment of the sharpening angle. The base is made of timber, the thickness of which is 40 mm. It is supported by hand.
Every owner who has a plane or jointer has probably encountered the problem of sharpening their knives. It is expensive to purchase new ones periodically. Knives can be easily sharpened with your own hands. In this case, specialized machines or sharpening stones are used. If the jointer is used constantly, then it would be better to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.
To sharpen a jointer knife, special sharpening equipment is used. The machine for sharpening knives with your own hands has a compact size. It can be installed in a garage or on a personal plot.
Many people are interested in how to make a knife sharpening machine with their own hands. To make a device you need to find certain parts. Perhaps similar spare parts are lying around in your barn or garage. They can also be purchased via the Internet.
A do-it-yourself machine for sharpening jointing knives consists of:
The first thing you should do is find the faceplate. This is the most important component of future equipment. She is the one responsible for the sharpening process. The jointer knives are narrow, and the faceplate guarantees complete and safe sharpening. You will have to buy this part new, but the rest can be used even as old ones.
It is better to purchase faceplates of German or American production. average cost parts is 25,000 rubles.
The next step is to find a motor whose power should be 1-1.5 kW. There is no need to buy it. Anyone will do, even old ones washing machine. But everyone probably has a table, a casing and a vacuum cleaner.
When the table is selected, the engine is fixed directly below it. A faceplate is attached to the moving part. The engine must initially be equipped with a button that turns the unit on and off. It should be conveniently located.
For reliable protection the faceplate is covered with a square-shaped casing with one corner cut out. It is this area that needs to be sharpened.
A hole of the same diameter as the vacuum cleaner hose is made on the lower surface of the table in the sharpening area. The presence of a vacuum cleaner is not essential, but it is advisable to install it. It removes unnecessary dirt from blade processing.
The engine mount under the base of the faceplate is not prerequisite. You can make sure that the parts are connected using a belt. In this case, the design will be more complex.
A do-it-yourself jointer knife sharpening machine is also suitable for saws and axes.
The sharp knives of the ice drill enable the fisherman to quickly make holes in the ice of reservoirs. However, over time, any cutting tools become dull and require sharpening.
For fishermen, a high-quality ice auger is a great source of pride. Often, true competitions on the speed of drilling ice holes are held on reservoirs. And victory does not always smile on young and strong fishermen who are armed with imported equipment. There are times when experienced fishermen, equipped with simple tools Soviet made. The reason for the high hole drilling speed lies in the good sharpening of the knives and the correct settings of the device. Beginner fishermen, having bought new Swedish devices, do not even have time to blink an eye before their knives become dull. Tiny grains of sand and pebbles in the ice contribute to the formation of chips and gouges on the blade.
Sharpening of devices is carried out in a variety of ways. Many of our ancestors did not even know what a professional grinding machine was. In most cases, sharpening was carried out using hand-made devices.
To make a device such as a machine for sharpening ice drill knives with your own hands, you will need two strips of steel, the thickness of which is 4 mm, the width is 60 mm, and the length is 200 mm. A spring from a car is often used as a strip. But it is very difficult to bend.
First you need to make the device case. The steel strips are bent in such a way that the chamfers of the knives pressed to the ends of the arc are not only parallel, but also in the same plane.
After making an arc from the same steel strip, a pressure plate is bent, serving as a clamp for the knives being sharpened
Holes for M12 or M14 bolts are drilled in the body and pressure plate. Having tightened the body and the pressure plate using a bolt and nut, we clamp the knives between them and check the strength of their adherence to the surface of the end of the emery circle.
If the knives are not located at the required angle (the chamfers do not fit exactly to the circle), then the device is modified by bending the body arc to the appropriate level. If the knives are positioned correctly, then the structure is disassembled, and stiffeners are welded to the body arc on both sides.
Sharpening knives is best done on an emery stone that rotates horizontally. In this case, when wetting the knives with water, the latter remains on the blade and stone longer, ensuring their safety. Dip knives in water frequently. This will help prevent the steel from overheating.
The disadvantages of the device include the impossibility of sharpening knives with different cutting chamfer angles. But each ice drill manufacturer offers its own models. In this case, a universal device is suitable.
The universal design allows you to sharpen knives at any cutting edge angle. By smoothly changing the angle between the arms of the unit, on which the knives are fastened with screws, you can fix the desired position of the knives in relation to the plane of the grindstone.
To make this device, you need to find a door hinge with minimal play, as well as an M8 or M10 screw with its own nut. Holes are drilled in the canopy arms. Their diameter is 6-7 mm (for attaching knives to them with screws).
A fixing plate with a slot for a fastening screw is made from a steel strip, the thickness of which is 3 mm. The plate and screw are welded to the canopy arms.
It happens that knives are sharpened, the location of the holes does not correspond to the holes in the canopy. In this case, additional holes are drilled in the arms for non-standard knives. In this case, the device has greater versatility.
Tools such as planers and surface thicknessers can often be seen in country houses. Through them, raw lumber is brought to the desired state. The knives of these devices, like any other, become dull. If you use them often, then the best solution would be to sharpen the knives for planer with your own hands. To make sharpening equipment at home, you will need various materials: metal, aluminum or wood.
A knife holder can be made from a wooden block. By making 45-degree cuts with a circular saw, you can sharpen the knives with a belt sander or a large whetstone. If the latter is not available, then sandpaper is attached to a smooth surface made of metal, wood, chipboard or glass.
Knife holders can be made from scrap materials. The optimal solution would be to use metal corners, which have an indicator of 90 degrees. When placing two knives on the sides, the sharpening angle of each will be 45 degrees. Using screws, you can secure the knives with a second corner.
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I wanted to learn how to sharpen knives, but I won’t say that I didn’t know how to do it at all. Of course, I sharpened it with my hands on the stones, and tried to maintain the angle, but it seemed to work—the knives shredded the paper.
I decided to take this process more seriously. And, as is usual here in Russia, do everything yourself from what is at hand, and even for free. We have such lovers and I am like that. For such people, in fact, this article is.
I looked at sharpening machines on the Internet and settled on Apex. The first thing I did was look for it on Chinese sites, there are, of course, copies and they were inexpensive (before the dollar exchange rate changed), now even Chinese ones are a bit expensive for us. I looked at how it works, what the nuances are. Yes, it looks like it can be repeated.
Looking ahead, I will say that it was not possible to do it completely for free; I still had to spend money, but quite a bit. About 150 rubles.
Instead of a base, I took a 2 mm galvanized sheet. I bent it by eye (for some reason I guessed exactly 20 degrees into the corner). Fixed it on a sheet of chipboard. I quickly glued magnets from old hard drives, it took 3 magnets. 
I looked at the knife rests on the Internet, they are convenient and a great idea. I found a support for the hinge in the garage, it has an 8mm thread.
At first I thought about changing the angle with nuts, but I decided that the angle changes often and it would be inconvenient to move the nuts back and forth and tighten the locknuts each time so that there is no play.
Where can I get a stone guide? An old bed, or rather a headboard, caught my eye; you probably remember what they had during the USSR. Why not a barbell from the back? I attached a 25x25 mm square profile to the rod (after sanding it first). Remember there are curly bushings. With their help (it took three pieces), in one you need to drill a hole to 11 mm (rod diameter). I added a nut for 10 and a pin with a ball from the same bed, and it turned out to be a comfortable handle.
I decided to sharpen it with sandpaper, there is such a method, it seems to work out very inexpensively and quite well. I bought several sheets of sandpaper of different grain sizes. To avoid any sandpaper residue, the length of the square profile was made to match the width of the sandpaper sheet to 230 mm. I made a cut on the rod and drove an engraving washer of a suitable size into it. Everything came together perfectly, as if it was intended for this.
I was afraid it would be difficult to center the profile, but in this way, the profile fell into place on its own. I glue the sandpaper onto the pencil with stationery glue.
I thought for a long time about this unit, how to make it so that there was no backlash. I thought of doing this. I went to a bearing store and it turned out that there are such bearings as SHS (in my opinion, the sliding ball stands for). There are sizes 10, 12, 15 according to the inner diameter of the hole. But the rod is 11 mm. It's hard without a turner. But a way out was found. In the store across the road they sold spare parts for KAMAZ trucks, and there I found a brass bushing for 10mm brake pipes. I bought ShS-12 (65 rubles) and a bushing (8 rubles). At home I drove the bushing onto the rod, with a hammer it expanded remarkably, I ground it a little to the rod, which is what happened here. I inserted it into the joint (with glue, just in case, to eliminate play) and flared it. Everything has grown together again. There is still a little play left in the ShS itself, it is made in Russia and is a little loose (I went through about a dozen in the store - all of them are the same). I wanted to weld the welding joint to the nut for fastening, but another idea came to mind, how to do without welding. I went to a plumbing store and bought pipe fasteners. It says 3/8” costs 27 rubles. I sanded it a little so that the working angle of the joint did not decrease. Next, using a pin with an 8 mm thread, I connected the clamp with a long nut and in the right place I drilled a 9 mm hole using a long nut. The lamb was made from a purchased lamb for 5 rubles. Nuts and studs are the same at 8 mm.
When I assembled it (clamped the joint into the clamp), the play disappeared, the bolts of the clamp compress the joint and the play goes away completely. It turned out better than welding. And when worn out it is easy to replace.
Oddly enough, all the details fell perfectly into place. I had to do a minimum of alterations. There is no play. Everything turned out to be very simple, I even made a second rod to polish the cutting edge.
According to what I have learned, it took about half an hour on the second barbell. I glued it on the edge:
I use them in different sequences.
I want to say that the idea was a success, in two days I sharpened all the knives I could find. Angles can be measured using a household inclinometer, or a telephone with an installed program for measuring angles
Compared to the manual method on stones, sharpening is much easier and sharper. The paper is planed, the hair is shaved. I haven’t tried trimming my hair, I think it’s too sharp and has no use in life, although with due diligence you can achieve it.
Total: 134 rubles. The rest was found in the garage for nothing. And plus work with your hands and head.
Who is too lazy to tinker, I found an inexpensive sharpener of the same type, the reviews are good, you can buy it.
Also made by hand.
Sharp knives for you.
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This article is found by the words:
Sharpening video.
The simplest variation of sharpening is a homemade device made from wooden and abrasive bars. To make it, you will need two bars of each type - they must be strictly the same dimensions. Wooden products must first be treated with sandpaper to remove all burrs from their surface.
The manufacturing procedure itself will not cause any difficulties. First, mark the wooden blocks: taking into account the required sharpening angle of the knives, draw lines for future fastenings of abrasive workpieces. Then apply sharpening stones to the resulting lines and mark their width on the wood. The next step is the cuts: make them according to the markings on both wooden products cuts of the required slope and depth of 1-1.5 cm. Insert abrasive bars into the recesses and secure them with bolts.
Advice. To prevent the resulting device from slipping on the surface while servicing the knives, attach a rubber gasket to it from below - it will give the device the necessary stability.
A more complex variation of the knife is a stand with a separate support and a sharpening rod attachment. To make it you will need:
Sharpener construction diagram:
For quality, it is not enough to build one of the above-mentioned devices - you also need to master the rules manual sharpening, and understand the order of work.
First, the required sharpening angle of the tool is calculated - it must be maintained throughout the entire sharpening process. Next, using smooth movements alternately “from yourself” and “towards you”, begin to move the blade along the sharpening element - an abrasive or a rod. In one movement it should go along the sharpener from edge to edge. In this case, movements are performed perpendicular to the edge of the blade.
Important! At the end of each pass, the blade should remain on the sharpener and not tear off, otherwise you can not only dull the knife even more, but also deform its side surface.
Move the blade along the sharpener with one side until it reverse side If a burr does not appear, then turn the knife over and begin sharpening the other side of the blade in the same way. Continue sharpening alternating sides until the burrs are completely gone. Gradually reduce the pressure of the knife.
The most important parameter for sharpening a knife is the required blade angle. It depends on the scope of application of a particular tool and the range of tasks assigned to it:
Please note that there are also combination knives: they are divided into several zones with different sharpening angles. The advantage of such tools is versatility, the disadvantage is the complexity of maintenance.
So, assembling a knife sharpening device yourself is an excellent way out of a situation where you don’t want to buy a professional device or regularly contact craftsmen to service the tools. Before you are two options for making sharpeners of different levels of complexity - choose which one you can handle, and use it strictly according to the indicated rules, so that the sharpening is not only of high quality, but also safe.
Almost every person in life is faced with the question of sharpening knives. After all, any knife, regardless of its quality, sooner or later becomes dull. Therefore, the blade must be carefully maintained.
In stores today you can choose any sharpener from a huge variety.
In general, there are several main types of such devices. Namely:
Oil-based, on the surface of which there is oil, specifically to save material.
Water, similar to the previous one, but water is used here.
Natural, industrially processed.
Artificial, made from non-natural materials.
Rubber, extremely rare. Completely inconvenient to use.
Every knife sharpening has its moments.
For example, Japanese self-sharpening requires special attention quite an experienced specialist, since the Japanese type of steel is quite fragile. To sharpen them, manufacturers recommend using different water stones with different grain sizes.
Housewives use store-bought sharpeners for sharpening. When using several knives, their sharpness remains longer.
But this is very important, even though it takes a lot of time and effort.
For this it is necessary to create special conditions. Thanks to them, the knife will remain sharp for a very long time.
Therefore, it is important to choose the right angle at which you will sharpen your knives. According to the basic rule in this matter, the smaller the angle at which the knife is sharpened, the stronger the cutting edge will be.
It is important not to forget that the next sharpening depends on maximum sharpness. The sharper the knife, the faster you will have to sharpen it. At the same time, making it “workable” again will be much more difficult.
The purpose of sharpening is to restore the sharpness of the blade. To do this, take care of the correct sharpening angle. That is, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which complies with the standards from a technological point of view.
To check how well the sharpening is done, cut the material that is cut by the blade of this particular knife. If the material is cut simply, you will do everything absolutely correctly.
In order to choose the right angle correctly, it is important to have some experience, without which it is quite difficult to cope with this issue. And even more so if there is no special equipment for this.
After all, if you hold a knife with your hands during the sharpening process, it is quite difficult to achieve its ideal “sharpness” as a result.
Sometimes it happens that the knife needs to be sharpened quickly. A block of wood, a hacksaw, sandpaper, a ceramic plate, a chisel, etc. may come in handy here.
And there are even those who can sharpen them on a foundation made of cement and sand. But this method is not recommended at all. After all, there are a lot of other and more proven ones!
The best of all is to make a homemade device. This is not only convenient, but also hardly distinguishable from the factory one.
Knives of this type can be handled by an experienced professional craftsman who has not only knowledge, but also skills in this matter. The process is actually quite complicated.
At the same time, it is quite difficult to find equipment for sharpening such a knife in a simple store. You should know what will help here modern instrument, in which you can set low speed with water cooling.
You need to use a new stone with a flat surface. The best will be aquatic view stone
In addition, if you do not have specific experience and skills in sharpening planing knives, you can also contact a service station, which probably has equipment such as a sharpener.
Currently, there are several types: a machine for sharpening knives, a machine for a hairdressing machine, and others. This article talks about how to make a machine for sharpening knives at home: detailed drawings with dimensions, photos and videos (2-3 videos) are presented.
Often, when sharpening knives at home, household members use abrasive whetstones. However, in order to use them in practice, you need the necessary skills and experience working with them. After all, if the knife is sharpened at the wrong angle, the blade remains dull.
Layout of the block to the blade.
Before actually manufacturing the machine, you need to listen to the advice of sharpeners.
When sharpening a knife, the master performs the following actions:
Defines the angle between the working area of the blade and the block. Moreover, for each model the angles are different;
The knife is located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the block. The grooves that are formed when the razor blade of the knife rubs against the block should be at 90 degrees to the knife line. The angle in such a situation is equal to half the sharpening;
Typically the angle is 25 degrees;
The mechanic begins processing from the beginning of the foot blade;
When adjusting the sharpening angle, the master paints over part of the foot blade with any marker. As a result, the mechanic directly controls the work area.
As a rule, after sharpening the working blade has non-uniform deformations. Therefore, when processing independently, the “point of reference” should not be the sharp part of the knife.
The main indicator of a block is its grain size.
The whetstone is the main component that makes the blade thin and sharp. As a result, before choosing a design, you need to select the necessary blocks.
When sharpening knives on their own, household members use these types of whetstones
which have a high grain size. Using such bars, the shape of the leg blade is corrected.
having medium grain size. With the help of such bars, the mechanic removes the grooves that are formed during the initial processing of the knife
whetstone, which is covered with GOM paste. In such a situation, the mechanic polishes the blade.
When processing knives for the kitchen, you can use two types - with medium and high grain. And also in this case it is necessary to use a touchstone.
When making a sharpening machine at home, you can use various parts. In particular, you can use laminated box plywood 12 mm thick, which was previously used to create radio equipment housings.
When constructing a machine at home, a household member performs the following actions:
Selects a base for such an installation, which must weigh at least 5 kg. Otherwise, it will be impossible to sharpen chopping devices and tools on the machine. Therefore, in the manufacture of such equipment, the tenant uses various steel angles measuring 20x20 mm;
Next, 2 parts are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw, which have a trapezoidal shape, the base is 170 by 60 mm, and the height is 230 mm. When cutting, the mechanic makes an allowance of 0.7 mm for sharpening the ends: they end up straight and fit according to the markings;
Sets between inclined walls on the sides there is a 3rd part - an inclined surface made of plywood with dimensions of 230 x 150 mm.
In such a situation, the trapezoidal sides are located laterally on a rectangular surface.
The result is a base - a wedge. In such a situation, a protrusion of an inclined surface measuring 40 mm is formed in the front part;
Then, along the side wall ends, the mechanic marks 2 lines with a thicknesser. At the same time, it retreats by half the thickness of the plywood;
Drills the ends of the inclined surface and connects the base parts for a while;
At the back of the structure, the mechanic connects the side walls using a 60x60 mm block, which is attached to the end with two screws on both sides; - makes a 10 mm gap in the block.
In such a situation, it retreats 50 mm from the center - 25 mm from the edge. To maintain a vertical position, first drill with a thin drill from 2 edges, and then expand;
Then, at the top and bottom, two threaded fittings are screwed into the slot, and in the fittings - a 10 mm pin, the length of which is 250 mm.
If the threads do not match the studs, the lower fitting is adjusted.
When making a handhold device, the following steps are performed:
Removes the flat inclined part from the base, modifies it and installs a fixation device on it, as well as the clamp of the device used;
Measures 40 mm from the edge in front and at this mark, using a garden hacksaw, cuts out a groove, the depth of which is 2 mm;
Using a shoemaker's knife, chip off the top 2 veneer layers from the end of the board. The result is a sample into which the mechanic inserts a 2 mm steel plate at the same level as the general surface;
The tool rest consists of 2 steel strips measuring 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. The machine operator connects them along the large end, which has equal edge indentations, and makes 3 through slots of 6 mm.
Using bolts, tighten the planks along the cracks made. In such a situation, the machine operator leaves the bolt heads on the side of the large top plate;
Then he removes metal defects of the weld in the form of beads and grinds the plate to give it a smooth surface;
Applies a small striker plate to the edge recess, moves the slots with a drill and secures the support with bolts.
Second important detail The tool rest is considered to be a clamping bar. It can be made from 2 parts.
L-shaped plank measuring 150x180 mm, the width of the shelves is 50 mm (top);
A rectangle-shaped strike plate measuring 50x100 mm (bottom).
When making a clamping bar, the machine operator performs the following actions:
Places the bottom bar on the far edge of the top bar;
Makes 2 holes in the center and retreats 25 mm from the edges of the part, connects the parts through the holes with two 8 mm bolts;
Screws in 8 mm bolts on 2 sides. In such a situation, the head of the nearest bolt is located near the top bar;
Welds the bolt heads to the plates and grinds them in advance until roundness is formed;
Yes, the inclined board retreats 40 mm from the edge and draws a line with a thicknesser;
Makes one 8 mm 25 mm gap at the bottom and top edges;
Using markings, he connects the edges of the slots and uses a jigsaw to make a cut with an allowance. Use a file to expand the groove to a width of 8.5 mm;
It fastens the planks using a groove that is in the board; the top bolt is tightened with a nut and thus firmly fastens the plank.
Then tightens connection 2 with nut;
When pressing the bottom bar (in the niche of the base), screw a wing nut onto the second bolt.
When adjusting the sharpening angle, the mechanic performs the following actions:
Throw a large washer onto the pin, which is located in the block of the machine base, and tighten the nut.
The rod does not rotate in the foot; the block for adjusting the sharpening angle is made from a small carbolite block, the dimensions of which are 20x40x80 mm.
15 mm from the block edge, drill a 20 mm end on both sides, widen the gap to 9 mm, then make a thread inside;
He steps back 50 mm from the axis of the new slot and drills another one in the flat part of the workpiece - 90 degrees to the previous one. Such a slot has a diameter of 14 mm. In such a situation, the mechanic strongly flares the hole using a round rasp;
Screws the block onto the pin - installs the desired height lugs without the use of fixing screws;
Secures the block on both sides with M10 hex nuts.
When making a sharpening carriage, the machine operator performs the following actions:
Welds 30 cm M10 threaded rods with a smooth rod whose thickness is 10 mm;
Uses 2 solid bars 50x80 mm and the thickness is 20 mm. In all blocks, in the center and on top, 20 mm is retreated from the edge, and then a gap is made 10 mm wide;
Screws a wing nut onto the rod, then a large washer and 2 bars, then a nut and washer;
Clamps rectangular sharpening stones between the stones or makes several replaceable sharpening stones.
As a timber base, the machine operator uses a rectangular tube from a profile or a piece of cornice, the width of which is 50 mm;
He sands the flat machine part and cleans it of grease, and glues strips of sandpaper with a grain size of up to 1200 grit using Super Moment glue.
The sandpaper should have a fabric base, and on 1 of the blocks you need to glue a strip of suede to apply polish to the blades.
The most common type of machine design is considered to be 2 pairs of wooden slats, which are fastened together with screws. The machine operator installs a block between such parts.
The main reason for the popularity of usemanual homemade sharpening machine various knives- this is its stability. During operation, the machine structure does not move in any way on the workbench.
When fixing the block, the mechanic uses support strips that are located between the wooden elements.
However, such a homemade machine has the following disadvantages:
The master positions the blade to the stone manually. When working for a long time, it is difficult to keep track of the sharpening angle;
When making such an installation, it is necessary to use a fixing unit. The machine structure must be stable, so it must be firmly mounted on the workbench;
During the work, the ties loosen and the location of the block changes.
Another advantage of such a scheme is ease of manufacture. This machine design is most often used when sharpening knives for jointers and for the kitchen.
Wood slats can be of different thicknesses. When making a simple sharpening machine yourself, you can use various available components.
When first studying all the nuances of manufacturing, you need to watch thematic videos that describe in detail how to make a machine at home.
