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» Simple beds on the site. How to make garden beds correctly. How to make beds in the garden. Layout features for different regions

Simple beds on the site. How to make garden beds correctly. How to make beds in the garden. Layout features for different regions

The bed is the basis of the vegetable garden; the yield, the effort and time spent on processing and agricultural techniques for growing crops depend on its laying. When thinking about how to arrange beds on a site correctly and conveniently, it is important to take into account a complex of factors: location and topography, climate, soil characteristics, cardinal directions and a number of other factors. Research in advance theoretical aspects to avoid problems in practice and increase the yield of each hundred square meters.

Basic rules for creating beds

For optimization garden work even before starting field work it is necessary:

  • decide on the types of vegetables that will be grown, as well as their quantity;
  • using special tables, calculate the required area;
  • draw up a plan of the site and the location of the beds on it.

The right beds are functional and beautiful

Such simple preparation will help to avoid unnecessary labor costs and, perhaps, will allow you to allocate a place on the territory for recreation or fruit and berry crops.

Area and location of the site

To establish the required garden area, first of all, decide whether you will grow vegetables only for your family, or also for sale. Kurdyumov N.I., author of the book “Encyclopedia of a Smart Summer Resident,” claims that for a family of five people, 90 square meters of plantings will be enough, excluding the paths between them. He uses ridges 0.5 m wide with wide passages of 1 m each, that is, the occupied area is about 4 acres.

It is not necessary to rely on other people's advice. Using special tables, calculate the annual need for vegetables per family, as well as the required area for growing them. To save space and increase yield, grow crops such as cucumbers, tomatoes, beans and the like on a trellis, or tie them up.

Table of vegetable needs and area of ​​their cultivation

Having calculated the size of the garden, proceed to its location on the plan. Consider here:

  • grow vegetables on the south side of the dacha, there is more sunlight and the earth warms up better;
  • trees and buildings should not shade the garden; place them on the north side of it;
  • the terrain of the plot should be as smooth as possible; if this cannot be achieved, take care of drainage grooves in low-lying areas, or think about a terraced garden.

An example of a site layout on paper

The shape of the allotment for growing vegetables can be any, do not get hung up on standard rectangles. However, keep in mind that when processing, it is undesirable to walk between plantings, so do not make the beds too large. Ideally, if you stand on the path, you can process the entire width of the plantings, or at least more than half.

If the garden area is small, provide high, vertical or multi-level plantings. They are especially popular for growing strawberries, wild strawberries, herbs. Keep in mind vertical structures With perennial plants, it is better to make them mobile so that you can hide them for the winter, otherwise the vegetables may freeze.

Non-standard multi-level beds

Rules and features of planning

A serious approach to growing vegetables requires a little preparation and proper planning of the beds in the garden and their location.

  1. Prepare a separate notebook where you will write down how to distribute the beds on the site.
  2. Write down the plan of the dacha in your notebook and mark the location of the beds on it.
  3. Number the ridges.
  4. On clean slate write down the year of sowing and the numbering of the islands with the crops you will grow.

Such a notebook and diagram will serve for many years, preserving important information for the gardener. It helps to navigate between crops, adhere to planting shifts and correctly select neighboring plants, which is extremely important even for a small area. After all, failure to observe crop rotation of vegetables and ignoring their compatibility threatens soil depletion and a significant reduction in yield.

For the convenience of sowing shifts, conditionally divide the territory into four zones where you will grow crops with different requirements for soil nutrition, as well as perennials.

  • Very demanding - cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, potatoes, garlic.
  • Moderately demanding - onions, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, kohlrabi, radishes, peppers, potatoes, melon.
  • Undemanding - the legume family.
  • Perennials - strawberries, wild strawberries, rhubarb, perennial herbs.

Proper layout makes crop rotation easier

When adding a garden diagram to your plan, do not forget to note the location compost heap. If you don't want to spoil the appearance of your landscape, install a composter. The remains of plants and other organic matter piled here are processed better than in a regular heap. To enhance the effect of rotting, use special bacteriological additives.

Layout of a cottage on a slope

The location of the cottage on a slope is not an obstacle to growing garden crops. Sound advice from experts will make this process easier:

  • Place the beds across the slope to reduce erosion.
  • On a slope with a steepness of up to 50, place vegetable crops in its upper part. Plant shrubs below or make high beds if the soil there is excessively moist.
  • On a slope steeper than 5.10, equip terraces on which to place plantings. The recommended ratio of their length and width in this arrangement is 4:1 or 5:1.
  • On a slope steeper than 70, make ditches up to 20 cm deep in the middle of the garden and at a distance of 1 m from the edge of the terrace. This will additionally protect the soil from erosion.

Terraced vegetable garden

Creating new beds

Raised or deep fenced plantings are very popular among modern gardeners. They are easier to process, you can use special earthen mixtures with the right composition, it is easier to calculate the required amount of fertilizer, and a fine mesh at the bottom will protect you from rodents. Make such beds “warm” and harvest two crops a year, because the vegetables will ripen a couple of weeks faster.

If you are planning to locate a vegetable garden on an unplowed virgin plot, use one of the methods:

  1. Remove the layer of turf, but do not throw it away, but chop it up and compost it. Dig up the bare soil and, if possible, add new fertile soil. Reinforce the edges with sides.
  2. A less labor-intensive method: dig up a vegetable garden area and plant it with potatoes. The number of weeds will decrease significantly, but do not rely on bountiful harvest in the first year.
  3. Make raised beds: dig up a space for a vegetable garden or simply trample (mow) the grass. Equip the sides required height. Place branches, thick plant stems, cardboard, paper at the bottom, and cover with quickly digestible organic matter and soil. In dry climatic conditions, it is better to deepen such ridges into the ground.

Creating raised “warm” beds

There is a wide variety of techniques for arranging beds:

  • high - very popular among American farmers;
  • mound;
  • according to the Mittleider method;
  • multi-tiered and others.

In each case, be sure to place edges along the edges; this prevents the soil from spreading and prevents weeds from spreading onto them from the paths. For edging, purchase ready-made garden borders or use any available materials:

  • wood, pre-treat it with an antiseptic;
  • concrete;
  • plastic;
  • metal;
  • brick;
  • slate.

Be sure to follow the order of planting your beds as noted on your layout plan. To save space and increase yield, plant new plants in the areas vacated after collecting predecessors. This way you can grow not only vegetables with a short growing season, but also, for example, potatoes if you dig them up young.

Parameters of beds - a little geometry and mathematics

Professional gardeners advise abandoning traditional continuous planting of land in favor of separate rather narrow beds with wide paths. They say that the yield of crops in such a garden is higher, since, thanks to a thoughtful arrangement, the illumination of each plant increases significantly. In addition, correctly selected planting parameters make them easier to care for.

Comfortable wide aisles are a must

How to calculate the optimal width

The recommended optimal width of garden beds differs in different sources. The only thing that all farmers agree on is that it should be such that it can easily process vegetables without going into the soil.

Thus, the width of the last strip should not exceed 1 m. There must be passages between plantings optimal width 90-100 cm. There is no need to create a distance between the beds, because spreading tops of plants will significantly reduce this area.

Narrow beds according to Mittleider are also popular. This American farmer developed the “ideal garden” system, according to which 45 cm wide beds alternate with 90 cm wide passages. Plants planted using this method receive maximum sunlight and are well ventilated. These factors, together with balanced feeding, guarantee a high yield even in the absence of good weather conditions.

Location in greenhouses

What should be the ideal length

Focus more attention not on the length, but on ensuring that all the ribbons are the same size, this will greatly simplify the care of crops. However, some amateurs ignore this point, creating entire compositions from plantings of different lengths, thus improving the design of the site.

An original approach to form

What height to choose

The height depends on climatic conditions and soil characteristics on the site. On light sandy loam soil should not be raised, especially if the climate is arid. High beds warm up better, but also dry out faster, so they will require frequent watering. In such conditions, make the “warm” bed deep rather than raised.

Heavy clay soils, especially in areas that are frequently flooded or where groundwater is close, require elevated structures. The optimal height for processing is 40 cm, but sometimes they are made higher - 60-70 cm.

In small areas it is possible to place a vegetable garden at different levels. At the same time, make the lowest plantings on the south side, gradually increasing their height, so the plants will not shade each other.

Raised beds are easy to work with

Raised beds have a number of advantages:

  • convenient watering;
  • water does not stagnate;
  • no need for hilling;
  • if you mulch, no weeding is needed;
  • no need to dig, just loosen by 7 - 10 cm;
  • early planting of vegetables is possible;
  • easy to do crop rotation;
  • when planting, there is no need to apply fertilizer to the hole;
  • with smart use of organic matter there is no need for inorganic fertilizers;
  • can be used forever.

The location of the beds relative to the cardinal points

Experts recommend drawing up a diagram of garden beds, taking into account the characteristics of the site, climatic factors and orientation to the cardinal points. Considering the latter, many often violate the standard arrangement along or across the site, replacing it with oblique or diagonal placement of the beds in relation to the sun. The unusualness and aesthetic imperfection of this arrangement is compensated by a number of advantages.

What does an accurate calculation provide?

Correct orientation of plantings contributes to:

  • reducing the number of sick and underdeveloped plants;
  • uniform lighting of crops;
  • reducing the frequency of watering;
  • increase in yield by 10-15%;
  • reducing the ripening time of some crops by 3-5 days.

Orientation from north to south with predominantly cloudy days

In addition, some gardeners claim that vegetables grown in the correct planting direction store better.

Layout features for different regions

Thus, residents of the northern and central regions, where there is less sunlight and more cloudy days, as well as insufficient heat and excess moisture, are advised to orient their plantings from north to south. Plants planted in this way will not shade each other.

Vegetable gardens in the southern hot and dry regions need beds oriented from west to east. With this planting, crops shade the soil between the rows, which means it dries out less, and the negative impact of overheated soil is reduced. Farmers' experiences show that in conditions of insufficient rainfall, the yield of corn sown in this way was 20-25% higher than that grown in rows from north to south.

The location of the beds on the cardinal points is not always justified. The presence of strong constant winds in the region or the location of the site at an angle significantly corrects this scheme. Thus, the negative impact of dry winds on plants is compensated by planting across the direction of air flows. In this case, the plantings dry out less and retain more carbon dioxide, which promotes photosynthesis. Ridges on an uneven area are made only across the slope.

Mitlider layout diagram

Paths between beds

The width of the paths between the beds is described above (at least 90 cm), but it is important not only to correctly calculate the parameters of this zone, but also to arrange passages to exclude weeds. These can be either permanent paths or temporary decking. Such floorings not only hinder the growth weeds, but also make the gardener’s work more convenient.

What to make garden paths from

What to put between the beds to prevent grass from growing:

  • wide boards or flooring made of narrow boards, knocked down in one line for strength;
  • fiberboard sheets;
  • roofing felt;
  • mulch from sawdust, hay, grass from the lawn. It is important to remember that fresh sawdust oxidizes the soil;
  • embankment of pebbles, crushed stone, broken bricks– such paths between the beds are very decorative and decorate the landscape;
  • old linoleum;
  • carton boxes.

Tree cuts

If the location of the plantings does not change and the paths always remain in place, it makes sense to make permanent paths. The most reliable covering between beds against weeds is concrete. Concrete passages can be monolithic, under artificial stone or under tiles.

You can also lay out the paths with tiles and not only concrete. Looks very nice rubber tiles In addition, it does not slip, which makes the summer resident’s movement safe.

Aisles decorated with tree cuts look impressive, but grass will still grow between the cuts if you do not follow the recommendations below.

Capital approach

How to prevent weeds from sprouting

This method is suitable for designing permanent passages, that is, for those who do not plan to change the location of the beds.

How to make paths between the beds to prevent weeds from growing:

  1. Having worked out a clear plan for the garden, mark the passages.
  2. Film in the aisles upper layer soil. If the beds are raised or have high borders, you don’t have to remove them.
  3. Lay cardboard, layers of paper, rags, black film for beds or geotextiles - a special material for grass.
  4. Cover with sand or sawdust.
  5. Make a hard coating on top that is resistant to erosion by rain, for example, cover it with pebbles or broken bricks.

Hill beds located taking into account a complex of factors

The result will be capital passages in which nothing will grow. In case of redevelopment, all this must be removed and the passages filled with fertile soil.

You don’t have to spend a lot of time figuring out how to place the beds on the site and how to cover the paths from weeds. Consider climatic conditions region, cardinal directions, soil and relief features, as well as the developments of famous farmers and, as a result, collect good harvests without unnecessary expenditure of strength, energy and time for processing.

Spring is the time to look at your dacha acres with a fresh look.

Now it is very important to correctly plan the location of future beds and plantings on them. This is one of the main components of summer success.

Change orientation

It is believed that the beds should be located according to the compass - from north to south. But this general recommendation Not suitable for everyone.

It is much more important that the morning and evening rays of the sun can illuminate the rows of plants, so that high plantings do not shade low ones in the morning. After all, it’s not the hot mornings and partly the evenings Sun rays most favorable for the best photosynthesis, for the development and fruiting of plants. If the plants are tall, then the optimal location of the ridges will be in the direction from west to east, so that the low morning rays of the sun can freely “slide” along the rows of plants, illuminating each of them.

Here's what's important to know when choosing a location and preparing beds:

1 Ridges stretching from north to south are good only for low plants and horizontal areas, where water does not stagnate during irrigation (or rain) and does not roll down faster than expected.

2 If the site has a slight slope, then it is more important to place the plantings horizontally, that is, across the slope. This way the plants will receive the same amount of moisture. Small uneven areas should be leveled by adding soil.

3 Make beds of equal length and width. U experienced gardeners they measure nine, four and a half or three meters long. And the optimal and most “fashionable” width among specialists today, which allows you to comfortably cultivate the land, is 45 centimeters for all crops. This standardization helps in calculating the plants to be planted and the consumption of fertilizers.

4 If the plot is uneven, the southern side is considered ideal for growing vegetables - due to more intense solar activity, crops ripen there much faster.

5 For one family (with a properly planned plot), it is enough to allocate one hundred square meters of land for vegetables. With proper care, it will provide a surplus harvest.

Onion friend

Plants have a special relationship with each other. Plant beets next to the cucumber and you will get an excellent harvest. But it’s better not to plant tomatoes next to cucumbers - they have different views on life: one loves constant humidity, while the other gets sick from it.

Properly planted crops nearby even help each other get rid of pests.

For example, experienced summer residents practice such an unusual neighborhood: among garden strawberries onions and garlic are planted. This - reliable means from gray rot and strawberry weevil. And if you plant parsley along the edges of the bed, the number of slugs will noticeably decrease. What else do you need to know about the proximity of plants?

Garlic- has a beneficial effect on many plants. Plant it between rows of different crops, and the strong smell of garlic will repel pests. It is especially effective for combating aphids; from such proximity they disappear within a few days.

Beet- stimulates the growth of spinach, beans, tomatoes, potatoes. One of interesting features This culture is that the secretions of its root crops have antibiotic properties, therefore planting it next to some vegetables, in particular carrots, has a healing effect.

Bush beans- significantly reduces the number of Colorado potato beetles on potato beds. Beans are also “friends” with carrots, beets, eggplant, pumpkin, and feel comfortable next to corn. If you plant radishes next to bush beans, the root vegetables will be especially tender. Beans also have a beneficial effect on tomatoes.

Tomatoes- grow well next to celery, radishes, radishes, lettuce, corn, cabbage, onions, garlic, spinach, parsley. The proximity of white cabbage and tomatoes is favorable; cabbage butterflies do not like the smell of tomato tops.

Cabbage- grows well next to most crops, but ideal neighbors for it are potatoes and onions, as well as celery and lettuce (protect cabbage from flea beetles), dill (the plant fights aphids and improves the taste of cabbage).

Dill- growing in the same bed with cucumbers, it prolongs their fruiting period. And the proximity to garlic and onions protects cucumbers from many diseases.

cucumbers- are favorable to beans: they grow faster from living together. Plant beans along the edge of the cucumber bed - you won't be disappointed.

But cucumbers have many competitors - potatoes, corn, radishes, radishes, spinach, and basil are no less coveted next to beans. Basil itself is even ready to help its desired neighbor - it reduces the damage to beans by weevil.

Pepper- a wonderful “partner” for basil and thyme. Eggplants can be safely planted next to beans, onions, thyme, and herbs.

Carrot- feels good next to peas, beets, onions, tomatoes, radishes, parsley, spinach, lettuce, marjoram, and sage.

Onion- best friend and carrots. Planted nearby, they successfully protect themselves from pests. Each of them has its own pest - the carrot fly and the onion fly, respectively. But the onion fly cannot tolerate the smell of carrots, and the carrot fly disappears if onions grow nearby.

Onions also get rid of many other pests, and also help in nitrogen nutrition of cabbage, carrots, beets, parsley, celery, radishes, spinach, and chicory.

Hatred is just one step away

Sometimes the plant neighborhood, on the contrary, turns out to be unfavorable. So, all legumes grow poorly next to onions and garlic. Grapes cannot stand proximity to cabbage. Garlic develops slowly if beets are planted nearby.

Cucumber does not tolerate living together with essential oil crops. And he doesn't like tomatoes. It’s only in a salad that tomatoes and cucumbers go well together. And in the garden their relationship is close to hostile.

For successful growth, tomatoes need dry, hot air and infrequent but abundant watering. Excessive soil moisture provokes late blight in tomatoes.

Cucumbers prefer warm, damp conditions. But you can plant tomatoes in those beds where cucumbers grew last year, and vice versa.

Many gardeners in early spring scatter the ash over the snow-covered beds as soon as the sun warms up. At the same time, the earth is freed from snow and melt water two weeks earlier and warms up faster.

Melting snow is very useful. Melt water contains a large number of various microelements that are easily absorbed by plants. Therefore, try to retain this moisture by making furrows and windrows across the slopes. Install drainage ditches in low areas.

Don't make the common mistake: don't delay the melting of snow under the treetops with manure, sawdust, etc. You will not get any benefit from this technique, and the harm can be significant. Under the influence of positive air temperatures, the above-ground part of plants awakens and requires nutrition and moisture. At this time, the roots are in frozen soil and are not able to “work.” As a result, so-called physiological drying of the crown may occur.

You can quickly and easily dry the cellar from spring dampness using a mini-fan installed on the suction ventilation pipe.

A box with a removable bottom is well suited for growing seedlings. When transplanted into the ground, the plants are not damaged at all.

A plastic bottle makes a convenient watering can for seedlings. To do this, use a hot nail to make a hole in the lid and insert a cocktail straw with a bendable tip.

Two polyethylene strips laid crosswise on the bottom of a container with soil for seedlings will help remove the plant quickly, easily and without damaging the root when planting it in the garden.

To prevent the seedlings from stretching too long, they should be moved to a cooler place at night. For example, from the window heating battery- on the floor or to the balcony doors.

If every morning you touch the seedlings on the windowsill or in the greenhouse with cardboard or your hand several times (5, 10 or 20), then your plants will grow stockier and stronger.

When thinking about how best to decorate a country house, many people forget that the beds on the site are no less important in this matter than other aspects. Exactly from correct design beds depends on how attractive and well-groomed the plot will be and whether it will be able to please you with its appearance. To create a suitable composition, it is necessary to take into account a number of important factors, each of which has a special meaning. These include the shape of the beds, their height, location and much more. Only by devoting all your attention to this issue can you achieve the desired result, which will delight you for many years.

Creating the shape and determining the size for the bed

Forming beds at the dacha, first of all, requires determining the shape. In this matter, everything depends solely on your imagination, since this is your plot and only you can decide which beds can surround it. These can be classic stripes, round flower beds or some special shapes that together will create a single composition. It is not at all necessary to adhere to strict forms, dividing the area into squares and rectangles.

On the contrary, using irregular shapes allows for more efficient use of free space. For example, you can follow the features of the relief, or even create a shape that repeats an object. The main thing here is not to overdo it, since too much clutter of shaped beds on the site will create a cluttering effect and, most likely, will cause negative emotions.

If we talk in more detail about the size of the beds created, there are also no restrictions here. However, it is important to understand that a garden bed is not only a decoration for a site, but also a functional piece of land on which something grows. The plant will need to be looked after, which means you should be able to reach anywhere without much effort. That is why the size of garden beds, as a rule, does not exceed one meter in width. Also, do not forget about the paths, which should be below the beds and provide easy access to any area.

Organizing beds: what features should be taken into account

Despite complete freedom of action, organizing beds on a site involves taking into account a number of rules, thanks to which you can significantly facilitate the process of both the formation of these sites and their further use. Such rules include the following:

It is best to place the beds from north to south, since in this case the soil will warm up better, which will have a beneficial effect on the condition of the plants, which will not experience discomfort.

Situations where the site is located on a gentle slope deserve special attention. In this case, many are concerned with the question of how to design the beds as efficiently as possible? The best solution will be located across the slope.


If the slope is too steep, special terraces, also placed across, will help you. This way you can protect the soil from being washed away during floods and rains.

Regardless of the shape you choose, do not forget that the bed must be strictly horizontal. In this case, you can avoid the accumulation of excess moisture in any particular place and protect your plants from unnecessary problems.

Owners of small plots should not be upset because they do not have the opportunity to place the desired number of beds. This problem has a simple solution, because you can make multi-level structures and use various tricks. For example, a suspended structure designed in a recreation area will not only provide an additional garden bed, but also give the site additional attractiveness.

Everyone can adhere to the basic rules. At the same time, you will be able to avoid unnecessary difficulties and create beds on your site that will satisfy all existing characteristics.

Non-standard conditions: how to avoid mistakes

In addition to classic situations, you can always be faced with the need to arrange a garden bed in a low-lying area. How to enter similar situation? There are a huge number of options for designing garden beds and such an important issue has not been overlooked. Low-lying areas tend to be different increased dampness, therefore, when registering them, you must follow the following rules:

The beds should be compact. It is best to make small zones measuring one meter by one meter and no more than 30 centimeters high. This way you can get a functional flowerbed and at the same time protect the soil, which will warm up better and quickly get rid of melting snow. In addition, crops can be planted a couple of weeks earlier than the generally accepted date.

The process of creating such a bed requires a minimum of effort, since it is enough to create a square of the desired shape from the boards, lay it on a flat horizontal surface and cover it with soil to which the necessary fertilizers have been added. Then everything depends on your imagination. For example, you can beautifully decorate the resulting borders to make the garden bed more attractive.

In addition to low-lying areas, raised beds deserve attention - these are beds located at some elevation and have sides that prevent spillage.

Every year they become more and more popular. This popularity is due not only to undoubted aesthetic advantages, but also to practicality, because with the help of a raised bed you can get a ripe harvest earlier.

If you want to build a similar structure on own plot, That Special attention You need to pay attention to the question of what the garden beds are made of and what the principle of operation is. There are several main stages:

  • At the chosen location, you need to dig a hole about 40 centimeters deep and put the soil aside.
  • When it comes to the size of the bed, it is better to be guided by standard principles and not make the width more than a meter, since otherwise you risk not reaching all the plants placed here.
  • A frame is installed along the perimeter of the resulting pit at the height you require, up to 50 centimeters. Bricks, beams, stones or anything else can be used as material for the frame.
  • The frame is covered from the inside with a film, and the bottom of the pit is covered with a wire mesh, which will protect you from rodents.

  • After the mesh is laid, fill the hole about one third with some long-decomposing materials, be it wood shavings, fabrics or paper. Sprinkle this layer with soil and water thoroughly. You cannot use synthetics in this case, since then you will not be able to achieve the expected effect.
  • Fill the remaining space with soil mixed with all the necessary fertilizers, be it special minerals, compost or manure.
  • It is also worth leaving fertile soil in reserve, since after a year the soil in such a bed will shrink a little and the top layer will require updating.

Garden bed - main part plot, and the entire future harvest depends on its correct location.

At first glance, there is nothing complicated in placing beds, but in practice everything is much more complicated, because you need to know what was previously grown on the site, analyze soil fertility. In addition, it is necessary to know the characteristics of the crops that will grow here. Light-loving plants They grow very poorly in the shade, and they are moisture-loving and require frequent watering.

Preparatory stages

Before placing the beds, the gardener must solve several problems:

  • determine the types of vegetables and in what quantities need to be grown;
  • calculate the size of the beds and their number;
  • draw up a site plan showing all the beds.

This scheme will last for many years to come. It will help you comply with the rules of plant proximity and adhere to the correct sequence of crop rotation, which will allow maintain soil fertility and increase the productivity of the site.

To understand how to correctly position a ridge on a site, you need to consider the following factors:

  1. All vegetables love light, so it is better to plant them on the south side of the site.
  2. Vegetable compatibility. Potatoes get along well with cabbage, eggplant, peas, and horseradish. Tomatoes grow well with basil, spinach, and dill. Carrots get along well with onions, peas, and beans. Cabbage will not grow well next to tomatoes, cucumbers - with potatoes, peas and beans - with onions and garlic.
  3. No bow required large quantity light for growth, so it can be planted along a fence or under trees.
  4. Each crop has different soil nutritional requirements. For convenience, you need to divide the site into 4 zones. In the first zone with very nutritious soil It is better to plant potatoes, cabbage, pumpkins, and cucumbers. In the second zone, onions, carrots, beets, radishes, and peppers will grow well. In the third zone it is best to plant beans, peas, and beans. They will feel good in the fourth zone perennials(berries and herbs).
  5. The specific smell of some plants (onions, sage, thyme, dill, garlic) can protect nearby plants from pests and diseases. Dill will protect cucumbers from diseases, and onions will repel carrot fly. Sage can cover up the smell of cabbage, and pests will pay less attention to it.
  6. In one bed you can only grow those plants whose roots are located at different levels.

You cannot plant the same crop every year in the same place. Correct alternation should occur as follows: first, fruit plants can be planted on one bed, root crops on the second, legumes on the third, and legumes on the fourth. - deciduous. In the second year, fruit crops should be transferred to the fourth ridge, root crops to the first, legumes to the second, and deciduous crops to the third. It is possible to return to the original version only after 3-4 years, since root crops greatly deplete the soil, and it requires time to recover.

The location of the beds depending on the cardinal directions

Largest quantity sunlight and warmth located on the south side of the site. This is where all heat-loving plants need to be planted.

The central part is also well suited for growing many crops. The sun will move across the sky, illuminate every corner of the site and all plants will receive the required amount of light.

The northern side of the site receives the least amount of light and heat. Here it is best to install outbuildings and plant trees so that they do not interfere with other plants receiving enough light.

Beds with low plants are best placed in a direction from north to south. It is especially important to follow this rule if the site is located in a lowland.

The beds located on sunny side plot or on hills, it is better to place it in the direction from east to west. Plants will shade the paths, therefore, the soil will retain greatest number moisture.

To determine the correct location of the beds, it is necessary to take into account the region of the country in which the site is located. Residents of the northern and central regions, which are the rainiest, are advised to orient their plantings from north to south so that the plants do not shade each other. In vegetable gardens in the southern part of the country, where it is constantly hot, it is recommended to place the beds from west to east. The tops of the plants will shade the soil between the rows and retain more moisture.

Correct placement of beds bears fruit on the site:

Types of beds

Before you start digging a bed, you need to decide what shape it will be. Basically, gardeners prefer to make beds in the form of a rectangle. But the bed can be of absolutely any shape. The main thing is to rationally distribute the area of ​​the plot in order to grow more vegetables and berries.

beds There are several varieties:

Each gardener decides for himself what size his garden bed will be. The width can be any, but the most convenient width is considered to be from 60 to 100 cm. The length of the bed can also vary depending on the wishes of the owner.

It is necessary to leave a distance of 90 cm between the beds. It is not recommended to make the paths narrower, because the vegetables will grow and tops will significantly reduce this area.

After the most successful location of the bed has been chosen, the shape and size have been determined, you need to mark the area on which it will be located. Then the bed is dug up, cleared of debris, and treated with solutions that will protect the plants from diseases. You can use a solution for treatment copper sulfate or Fungicide Topaz. Next, the soil needs to be loosened and large lumps of earth broken up.

It is recommended to place currants, gooseberries and raspberries in well-lit and moist areas of the site. First, you definitely need to dig up the ground, remove weeds and spread fertilizer. In this case you should not use nitrogen fertilizers, because they make it difficult for plants to survive. Phosphate fertilizers will be used here (for berry crops only 15 g is enough), potassium (for black currants 15 g, for all other berries 30 g). After the hole is dug, it is filled with fertile soil and the above fertilizers. Wood ash can be used instead of fertilizers. Next, add organic fertilizers and mix everything thoroughly.

Experienced gardeners advise place currant bushes at a distance of 1.5 m from each other, and gooseberries at a distance of at least 2 m. Failure to comply with this rule will lead to a decrease in yield and a decrease in the life expectancy of these bushes. Maintaining this distance is also necessary to make the beds more convenient to process and harvest.

First, all seedlings must be carefully examined. If there are damaged or dry roots, they need to be trimmed.

Currant seedlings must be planted at an angle to create favorable conditions for the appearance of new roots.

Raspberries and sea buckthorn are planted separately in specially designated areas. The distance between the rows of raspberries should be at least 1.5 m. They produce many root shoots, while sea buckthorn grows long roots. If these types of shrubs are planted close to other plants, the root system of the vegetables will be damaged and they may die.

Strawberries can feel good and bear fruit in one place for about 3 years without any problems. Then it must be completely eliminated. You can plant vegetables in its place, and transplant strawberries in place of vegetables. Currants, gooseberries and raspberries can remain in one place for many years and bear fruit successfully if they are properly cared for (systematically pruned so that new young branches grow and sprayed). And if you do not give them the necessary attention, they will wither away from disease. And then there will be no point in transplanting them to another place.

In order for the garden to produce a good harvest, you should not place trees randomly, because this complicates maintenance.

There are several schemes that can be used to position the trees correctly:

  1. Quadratic. They are planted in several even rows. The distance between trees should be at least 6 meters.
  2. In a checkerboard pattern. Here the plot is represented as a chessboard, and in the center of each square is a tree. This scheme is used for plants with a small crown.

It is better to plant fruit trees on a hill on the south side of the site. If there are several of them, then you need to do this so that the height of the trunks increases in the north direction.

It is undesirable to plant trees closer to the house than 5 meters, as their root system can damage the foundation. It’s also better not to plant trees along garden paths. The crown and falling fruit will interfere with movement.

Gardeners should always keep an eye on their garden. Of course, now all vegetables and fruits can be easily purchased in stores, but having your own garden allows you not only to save family budget, but also a guarantee that all products were grown without the use of nitrates and other harmful substances.

The correct location of the beds, compliance with the rules and sequence of planting crops, timely care of plants will allow the gardener to grow a good harvest and provide his family with a full range of all necessary vitamins and microelements until the next harvest season.