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» Manual machine for sharpening knives and scissors. How to make a machine for sharpening planing knives? DIY sharpener drawings

Manual machine for sharpening knives and scissors. How to make a machine for sharpening planing knives? DIY sharpener drawings

Everyone knows that working with a dull knife is not only difficult, but also dangerous. Due to the slowdown in the work process, tension in the muscles increases and the blade, just like that, will come off, causing serious injury. Alternatively, you can use the services of a workshop, but this will take some time, which is often not enough and will require financial costs. But if you have a knife sharpening machine at home, the process will speed up significantly.

Why do knives lose their sharpness?

Cutting products, no matter what their quality, become dull over time. This occurs due to the blades changing shape as a result of the loss of microscopic particles of the material from which the blade is made when interacting with the object being cut. In addition, under pressure, which is sometimes quite strong, the cutting edge is deformed as a result of deflection in any direction.

In addition, the cutting direction is not always maintained, which causes curvature of the very edge of the knife surface and makes it difficult to pass along the cut line. This is especially evident in blades made from low-grade raw materials.

Many people think that in hot water knives get dull much faster. This assumption is partly correct, although it is not decisive. Such tap liquid is saturated with salts and metals much more strongly than cold liquid, therefore their interaction with the cutting surface has a negative, although not decisive, effect.

How to sharpen a blade

Household cutting accessories are made from special and powder grades of steel. The structure of their sharpening resembles the teeth of rodents: the further from the edge, the less hardness of the cutting layer.

Therefore, ideal manual sharpening of knives occurs according to the push-pull principle or the push-pull method (from English push-pull sharpening):

  • The cutting blade is first pushed away from itself with a scraping motion, with a slight turn to the side.
  • Further, without lifting the blade from the sharpener, the movement occurs towards itself, with a turn in the opposite direction.
  • This continues until sharpening is complete, with a gradual weakening of the pressure.

This technique requires certain skills from the sharpener, as well as careful treatment of the blade itself. This method requires:

  • Clearly maintain the tilt of the knife, gradually changing it depending on the curvature of the knife.
  • The contact spot of the blade must coincide with the tangent line of the whetstone and be perpendicular to its longitudinal axis.
  • The pressure on the surface must be changed smoothly.

It is difficult to carry out the process, observing all the rules when moving the blade in both directions, and an incorrect result renders the blade unusable. To relieve the sharpener from constantly monitoring the sharpening process, they came up with machines for sharpening knives.

Necessary conditions for sharpening

Maintaining the angle between the edges of the blade when sharpening it is the key to effective use and long service life of household accessories. It must be restored in accordance with technological standards, then there will be no problems with cutting. For knives for various purposes there is a sharpening angle:

It is difficult to maintain the required parameters without using a special device. Therefore, there are many ways to make them yourself. It’s easy to do, and you won’t have to spend much time at all.

Sharpener parts

No matter how many such devices are invented, they have the same common features. The main and constant parts of any sharpening tool are;

  • Abrasive component.
  • The thrust part.

All sharpening components that are used at home and at work are presented in stores. Here are the main ones:

  • Ceramic bars.
  • A natural stone.
  • Diamond sharpener.
  • Japanese water devices.

The most popular and affordable abrasive is a ceramic stone, which is most common in retail outlets. Most often this is an ordinary boat for rough sharpening the blade. There are double-sided bars, which are preferable for household. This is an inexpensive device, the replacement of which as it wears out will not bring large financial costs.

Grinding using diamond stones is more complex and expensive. In addition to the high price, such sharpeners quickly wear out the working part of the blade.

The best whetstones for sharpening are natural and Japanese stones. However, their price is very high and they are not produced in our country.

Homemade sharpening device

In order to make sharpening machine For knives with your own hands, the first thing you need to do is find a suitable drawing. There are many modifications for its production.

The easiest way

This option does not require special skill or the use of expensive components. To make it you will need:

  • Wooden corners with a side of 20-30 centimeters: 2 pieces.
  • Screws with nuts in the amount of 10 pieces.
  • Protractor for precise angle setting.
  • In addition, you will need a drill and drill bits.

To make it, you need to mark the corners and drill 3-4 holes at identical points. Place a block between them at the desired angle and secure with bolts.

To sharpen a knife or scissors, you simply need to run the blade along the surface of the block, holding it strictly vertically.

To change the sharpening angle, you simply need to loosen the fasteners and modify the position of the abrasive part. In order not to pick up a protractor every time, it is recommended to put marks on the base, marking the main positions of the block.

The ability to change the sharpening angle is the only advantage of this manual machine for sharpening knives. In terms of convenience, it is not far from an ordinary bar.

Sharpening machine is more complicated

For more comfortable work a more complex device will be required . To make it, you need the following parts and tools:

  • Plywood, laminate or chipboard.
  • A meter strip with a thickness and height of 2-4 centimeters. You can take two pieces, one longer, the other shorter.
  • Bolts with nuts - 2 pieces.
  • Hacksaw and marking tool.

First you need to make a knife holder. To do this, from a piece of plywood, or whatever is available, you need to cut a rectangle measuring 10 by 4 centimeters (dimensions are approximate). The wide part needs to be ground down acute angle to prevent the block from touching its edge when sharpening.

For the base, you need to cut out another piece of plywood with dimensions of 30 by 25 centimeters.

At a distance of 1-2 centimeters from its edge, a holder is placed with the cut outward and secured with bolts. The blade will be located between them.

The next stage is the manufacture of a stand from a long rail, along which the bar moves at a fixed angle. It needs to be installed vertically on the base and the angle measured in relation to the holder. The upper part is cut at the appropriate angle. The second post is cut in a similar way and connected with the rest of the rail on top, so that the result is a U-shaped part.

The assembled structure is attached to the base on the side opposite to the holder. This can be done using screws or wood glue.

All that remains is to make the base for the abrasive part. To do this, stick sandpaper with a grit from P600 to P2000 onto a short strip.

To work with such a sharpener, it is better to place it on the edge of the table in such a way that the protruding bolts connecting the base and the blade holder rest against it, thus preventing the device from sliding.

Electrical devices

These are the most versatile devices. When using them, the sharpening angle is selected independently; just select the desired position of the blade. Main part electric machine for sharpening knives - sanding wheels with different grain sizes and slopes. The discs are driven by an electric motor. Therefore, energy dependence is a disadvantage, although not the main one in the use of such equipment.

The main disadvantage of this method of sharpening is the inability to visually control the process, since to ensure safety during sharpening, all rotating mechanisms are completely closed.

It is impossible to make such a device at home. Therefore, it is simpler: a disk or belt abrasive is attached to a conventional electric motor. When using a round stone, a stop is installed with the ability to change the inclination of the blade. On such a machine, any cutting tools can be restored.

Errors during manual work

Not every family has professional specialists to do this kind of work. In order to properly sharpen a blade, you need to avoid typical mistakes that beginners do:

Brief overview of models

Except homemade devices for sharpening, there are many similar devices available in the factory. The most popular of them are:

These are the most well-known brand names, and cheaper and simpler devices can be purchased for 20-30 dollars.

Much more convenient, but also more expensive electrical installations. Small Chief’s Choice devices of various modifications cost from 120 to 250-300 dollars. Their sharpening angle is fixed, 20 degrees, and is used for sharpening flat knives in cafes and restaurants.

The same company offers a large number of mechanical devices, which are an abrasive bar in a housing, installed at a certain angle. For them you will have to pay from 40 to 50 dollars.

With repeated use of knives, every housewife faces a problem when they begin to become dull and it becomes simply impossible to work with them. In addition, this is unsafe, since the knife can slip while cutting and injure you. To prevent this from happening, knives should be sharpened in a timely manner using a special sharpening device.

You can buy a knife sharpener at your nearest hardware store or at the market, where they will offer you different kinds devices. You will have to choose yourself. But in order not to make a mistake, you need to know how to correctly evaluate them in terms of convenience and quality of use.

The offered options do not always satisfy consumers, so many make sharpeners with their own hands, using special stones, tools and drawing sketches with dimensions. The photo shows options for homemade knife sharpeners.

Features of knife sharpening

When sharpening knives, the main thing to do is correct angle contact between the edges of the blades so that they serve you long and efficiently. Therefore, when sharpening knives yourself, it is necessary to maintain the existing angle of the blades.

Each knife blade has its own optimal angles:

  • from 10 to 15 degrees - for a medical scalpel or straight razor;
  • from 15 to 20 degrees – for household knives used for cutting bread products, vegetables or fruits;
  • from 20 to 25 degrees – for multifunctional knives for cutting a variety of products;
  • from 25 to 30 degrees – for reliable companions of hunters and tourists on long hikes;
  • from 30 to 40 degrees - for cutting materials that are particularly hard.


To sharpen the correct angle of the blade, you cannot do without special tools, since it is difficult to do this manually.

The design of such devices is not complicated, so it is easy and quick to make it yourself, and detailed instructions for making sharpeners you can borrow from the Internet.

Types of knife sharpeners

From a large assortment of different types of knife sharpeners, choosing the right option for yourself is quite simple.

The main elements of the sharpening device are a stop for fixing the knife and an abrasive stone, which is used as ready-made abrasive materials (stones) or self-made. But before you get to work, you need to learn how to properly make a knife sharpener with your own hands.

Types of sharpening stones

There are several types of whetstones:

  • aquatic. Sharpening stones used in water are less likely to wear out during use.
  • oil The structure and configuration are similar to aquatic ones, but with a more oily surface.
  • natural. For their production, only natural raw materials are used with pre-treatment during the production process.
  • artificial. In this case, the name speaks for itself, i.e. the abrasive material is created artificially.
  • rubber. They are not as common as the previous ones, and they are also inconvenient during use.

What can you make a sharpener from?

To make a whetstone with your own hands, you can use the most in a simple way. Take a small glass plate rectangular shape about 5 mm thick. Using double-sided tape, attach strips of coarse and medium-grit sandpaper to it on both sides.

The block is ready for use; if necessary, worn sandpaper can be easily replaced with a new one. This method is the most budget-friendly.


The disadvantages of this device include:

  • rapid wear of the abrasive and fragility of the product (when fastening the timber you need to be careful that the glass does not crack).
  • possible overheating of the material during rapid movements during the sharpening process.

You can find the best ideas for knife sharpeners on their respective websites.

Wooden bars

This method of making a tool for sharpening knives is also simple and accessible to everyone. You will need four identical bars: two abrasive and two wooden.

Before starting work, sand the wood blocks with sandpaper so that their surface becomes smooth without burrs. Mark the block according to the required angle of inclination. Apply a whetstone and mark its width on a block of wood.

Note!

Make cuts 1.5 cm deep according to the mark and insert abrasives into the grooves. Secure the stones with bolts. A piece of rubber attached to the bottom will give the structure stability.

In addition, you can make an adjustable sharpener with your own hands, but the next article will tell you how to do this.

Photos of DIY knife sharpeners

Note!

Note!

General issues

Any cutting tools require proper care, as they gradually begin to lose their former sharpness, and working with such products becomes painful, almost unbearable. The biggest irritant is a dull knife, which turns into an absolutely useless object. To avoid similar situations, it needs to be sharpened periodically, and sharpeners help a lot with this, buying which is not at all a problem. However, not all owners are inspired by this option, because quality devices they cost a lot. An elegant and logical way out of the situation is a device for sharpening knives with your own hands. Functionally homemade tools They are in no way inferior to their competitors - factory models, but they allow you to achieve significant savings.

Introduction to the concept of “sharpening angle”

The purpose of the process is known to everyone - to give the blade sharpness. However, this operation is slightly different for each type of instrument. The reason is the purpose of the knife - household, hunting, fishing. The difference between them is not at all visible at first glance, but it is precisely this that determines what the tools are used for. This is the sharpening angle, but it can only be seen and compared for those knives that have not yet been sharpened at home. The following values ​​are accepted:

  • 8-12° - for scalpels, straight razors;
  • 10-15° - for fillet knives (fillet knives);
  • 15-20° - for cutting food;
  • 20-25° - for general purpose tools;
  • 20-40° - for hunting knives;
  • 30-50° - for massive special knives (for example, for a machete).

Smaller angles are designed to work with soft materials, large - with solid substances.

There is no single standard for all instruments. Some Western manufacturers of hunting weapons consider a sharpening angle of 23° to be ideal. There are companies in America that sharpen similar and combat knives at 40°. There are tools with different sharpening angles for parts of the blade. A serious military example is the Russian saber (40 and 30°). Such weapons become universal, but for home handyman There is a drawback to this sharpening - the work is much more difficult.

In order to be able to sharpen knives correctly, making an almost professional device for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need to provide for the possibility of changing its angle. This task is the most difficult: both during design and during manufacturing.

Grinding stone grit

Abrasive whetstones differ in grain size. There is a conditional division: small stones, medium stones and coarse stones. The accepted classification is numbers - the number of grains located in a unit area. Some manufacturers (for example, Chinese) make duplicate inscriptions in English for the convenience of customers.

  1. Extra coarse: 200-250 - extremely coarse. They are completely unsuitable for sharpening knives.
  2. Coarse: 300-350 - rough. These stones are used only for severely dull or damaged blades.
  3. Medium: 400-500 - average. You can get by quite easily without an abrasive of this grain size.
  4. Fine: 600-700 - small (thin). This is the most popular type of whetstone for sharpening knives, including at home.
  5. Ultra/extra fine: 1000-1200 - very fine. They are used for final processing of the blade, which they want to bring to shine.

Sharpening stones should have a convenient shape. It is optimal if the length of the stone significantly (1.5-2 times) exceeds this parameter of the blade. The most practical products are those that have different grain sizes: coarse on one side, fine on the other. For ordinary household knives, a modest set of sharpening stones will suffice. It consists of 2 medium-grain bars (different) and the same number of small-grain stones, one of them can be ultra-fine.

The bars differ in origin. Natural sharpening stones (corundum, slate) have several disadvantages - quick grinding and, as a rule, the absence of fine-grained products. These materials are soaked (or just wetted) in water before work. After this procedure, an abrasive paste is formed on the surface, which guarantees greater sharpening efficiency.

How to sharpen knives by hand?

Without mastering the techniques manual sharpening A craftsman will not be able to sharpen a knife correctly, since any device for sharpening knives with your own hands will only make his work a little easier when sharpening the edge of the tool. The process looks like this:

  1. A block of medium or coarse grain is placed on the work table and then fixed.
  2. Calculate the sharpening angle. Begin to sharpen the knife away from you, keeping the angle constant. The movements are uniform and smooth; strong pressure is not required here.
  3. In one movement, the tool is carried to the end of the stone. The edge of the knife being processed must always be perpendicular to the center line of the block, therefore, when approaching the rounded part (towards the tip), the blade is turned, trying to maintain the required perpendicularity as much as possible.
  4. When the movement is completed, the tip is not removed from the surface, but the “walk” begins in the opposite direction. The steps are repeated until back side the blade will not have a thin continuous “burr”, which is checked with a finger, it is drawn perpendicular to the edge. If it is smooth along the entire length of the blade, then this part of the operation is completed. Otherwise, work continues along the entire length until the ideal is achieved.
  5. Change the block to a second product - with a finer grain size. Sharpening continues away from you, but without the reverse movement. The second side is treated in the same way.
  6. Switch to another pair of sharpening stones - small ones. In the first of them, the process with movement is repeated only from oneself.
  7. When the burr edge can hardly be felt, they move on to the last sharpening stone - the smallest one. On it, the movement away from you is done only once on each side, while simultaneously reducing the pressure to a minimum.

The remaining mini-defects are dealt with using a belt glued to the beam, rubbed with GOI paste. They do this by alternating sides, turning the edge back. Many people saw such a simple process in old Soviet films.

Homemade machines

A device for sharpening knives with your own hands makes it relatively easy to solve the main task - to guarantee constant angle inclination of the blade relative to the block. Some simple devices It's easy to do. Those sharpeners that provide greater comfort are already more demanding of the master.

Elementary vertical device

It consists of a corner frame and a keystone. Despite the primitive design, the prices for these store-bought goods are quite high, and replacement sharpening stones have to be purchased separately. Any craftsman who has the following on his farm can make this device for sharpening knives with his own hands:

  • four bars of the same size;
  • grindstone;
  • drill, drill bits;
  • protractor;
  • bolts, nuts.

This sharpening device allows you to hold the knife strictly vertically, which will greatly facilitate the work with the cutting tool. The process goes like this:

  1. First of all, two wooden corners are made from timber, the elements of which are placed at an angle of 90° to each other.
  2. Having accurately connected both parts and fixed them, make marks for the holes corresponding to the diameter of the bolts. Then they are drilled.
  3. The parts are connected with bolts, and the elements are slightly tightened with nuts.

The device is ready for use. The most important thing in it is the correct determination of the required angle for sharpening the blade. This is done using a protractor. After setting the angle of inclination, the block is inserted and the nuts are tightened until the stone is securely fixed. If you modify the tool a little, the sharpening stone and knife can be swapped. The device has one downside: it is impossible to smoothly adjust the angle of the whetstone.

Sharpener from mounting angles

To make this sharpening device you need to prepare:

  • metal corners (material thickness - 6 mm, size - 90x90 mm);
  • whetstone;
  • 2 small metal rectangles (jaws for clamping stones);
  • threaded rod M6, length - 160 mm;
  • a knitting needle, electrode or other thin rod;
  • drill, screwdriver;
  • file, hacksaw, pliers;
  • bolts, nuts.

The work itself is performed according to the following algorithm:

  1. Holes are made in the corners into which threads are cut.
  2. Grind off the bevels on the jaws, which are designed to fix the blade. Otherwise, they will become an obstacle to the movement of the grindstone.
  3. All sharp edges and corners are processed with a file.
  4. Holes are drilled in the metal sponge rectangles, then a thread is made for the connecting bolt. The touchstone is fixed.
  5. A knitting needle bent at an angle of 90° is inserted into the hole of one of the jaws and then fixed.

This spoke part will play the role of fixing the angle of inclination of the sharpening stone. The advantage of this model is the ability to change the angle of inclination over a wide range, which will be an additional advantage for processing various knives, as well as other cutting tools.

Plywood sharpening machine

Most parts of this device can be made from scrap materials, but in this case plywood was used for its manufacture. The master is free to take polished or laminated material. You will need:

  • sheet of plywood, its thickness is 8-12 mm;
  • wood (hardwood), carbolite or textolite for the adjusting block (20x40x80 mm);
  • sheet steel, thickness - 1 mm;
  • grindstone;
  • timber (60x60 mm);
  • metal pin (diameter - 10-12 mm, length 250 mm);
  • hacksaw (jigsaw, grinder);
  • shoemaker (sectional) knife;
  • drill (screwdriver);
  • 2 footers for hairpins ( internal thread- M10);
  • rasp;
  • thicknesser;
  • self-tapping screws, bolts, nuts (plus M10 wing nuts), washers.

Plywood - light material. In order for the base to be stable, it is better to make it heavy enough. “Horseshoes” made of metal corner 20x20 mm.

Base

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. Parts are made from plywood - 2 sidewalls and an inclined plane. Having drilled three holes in the side elements and 6 in the ends (3 in each) of the inclined part, they are temporarily connected with self-tapping screws.
  2. In the rear part, between the sidewalls, four self-tapping screws (2 on each side) secure the timber. In it, stepping back 25 mm from the edge, holes are made for the pin: first they work from above and below with a thin drill, then they are expanded. The fittings are screwed in on both sides. Insert the adjusting pin.

Podruchnik

Filming top part base, since it is necessary to build a device for pressing and fixing on it cutting tool. The support is assembled from 2 steel strips: 60x170 and 40x150 mm.

  1. Stepping back 40 mm from the front edge, use a hacksaw to saw down the groove; its depth is 2 mm. Use a shoemaker's knife to get rid of two upper layers plywood so that a steel plate 2 mm thick fits into the sample.
  2. The metal elements are folded together (the smaller one is at the bottom), making equal indentations along the edges, then 3 through holes (6 mm) are drilled. The plates are tightened with bolts, the heads of which are placed on top. They are welded to the plate, the beads are removed, and they are ground.
  3. Mark and drill holes in the sample of the inclined part, then secure the tool rest with nuts.

Pressure bar

The fixation mechanism also consists of 2 parts: the upper bar has L-shape(80x150 mm, width 45-50 mm), bottom - rectangle (50x100 mm).

  1. The smaller part is placed below, at the far edge of the larger one. 2 holes are made in both: 25 mm away from the edges of the bottom plate, then the top plate is drilled. Both elements are tightened with bolts (8 mm), inserted into opposite directions. The caps are processed in a similar way: they are welded and then ground.
  2. On the inclined part, stepping back from the edge where the adjusting pin is located, 40 mm, use a thickness planer to draw a line. Holes are made at a distance of 25 mm from the top and bottom ends (8 mm). They connect their edges with lines, then make a cut with a jigsaw and widen it with a file to 8.2-8.5 mm.
  3. Both planks are connected through a groove, the elements are tightened with bolts, and a lamb is screwed onto the plank from below.

Adjustment system

To secure it, place a washer on the stud and screw on a nut, which is tightened so that the rod cannot turn.

  1. 15 mm are retreated from the edge of the block; a through hole is drilled in the end on both sides, which is expanded to 9 mm. Then a thread is cut into it.
  2. Stepping back 50 mm from the resulting axis, drill a hole (approximate diameter - 14 mm) in the flat part of the part, it is perpendicular to the first, vertical one. It is well flared with a rasp.
  3. The resulting block is screwed onto a stud. To ensure its fixation, it is controlled from below and above with lambs.

Sharpening carriage

It is made from a 30 cm pin and a rod, the thickness of which is the same 10 mm. They are welded together. To fix the block, 2 elements (20x50x80 mm) are cut out of solid material. A hole is made in the central part of each of them, the distance from the top edge is 20 mm, the diameter is 10 mm.

First, a wing is screwed onto the carriage, then a washer, bars, again a washer, and then a nut. In such a bar you can easily fix sharpening stones, but craftsmen strongly recommend making your own set of replacement whetstones.

The basis for them will be a rectangular aluminum profile, the width of the flat side of which is 40-50 mm. It is sanded, degreased, then Moment is applied to the surface, then sandpaper of different grain sizes is glued on. It is better to take the material on a fabric basis. You can glue suede fabric to one element from the set to be able to straighten the blades with GOI paste.

“Rules for correct” sharpening

  1. The blade is fixed parallel to the edge of the tool rest, then it is pressed with a bar. After inserting the template, adjust the angle between the plane of the working tool and the sharpening block.
  2. If the blade is already very far from ideal, sharpening begins with a coarse whetstone (400). Once the runway is free of ripples or creases, the grain is reduced by sanding the sides in both directions with minimal effort.
  3. The final stage of the operation is straightening with a block of suede cloth and abrasive paste applied to it. In this case, the movement can only be done in one direction - towards you.

It’s not difficult to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, especially if you choose a very simple model. More advanced devices will take much longer, but they are certainly worth every minute spent, because the savings are serious. What models you can create on your own can be seen in the photos and videos. One of them is here:

I wanted to learn how to sharpen knives, but I won’t say that I didn’t know how to do it at all. Of course, I sharpened it with my hands on the stones, and tried to maintain the angle, but it seemed to work—the knives shredded the paper.

I decided to take this process more seriously. And, as is usual here in Russia, do everything yourself from what is at hand, and even for free. We have such lovers and I am like that. For such people, in fact, this article is.

I looked at sharpening machines on the Internet and settled on Apex. The first thing I did was look for it on Chinese sites, there are, of course, copies and they were inexpensive (before the dollar exchange rate changed), now even Chinese ones are a bit expensive for us. I looked at how it works, what the nuances are. Yes, it looks like it can be repeated.

Making Apex

Looking ahead, I will say that it was not possible to do it completely for free; I still had to spend money, but quite a bit. About 150 rubles.

Instead of a base, I took a 2 mm galvanized sheet. I bent it by eye (for some reason I guessed exactly 20 degrees in the corner). Fixed it on a sheet of chipboard. I quickly glued magnets from old hard drives, it took 3 magnets. I looked at the knife rests on the Internet, they are convenient and a great idea. I found a support for the hinge in the garage, it has an 8mm thread.

At first I thought about changing the angle with nuts, but I decided that the angle changes often and it would be inconvenient to move the nuts back and forth and tighten the locknuts each time so that there is no play.

Where can I get a stone guide? An old bed, or rather a headboard, caught my eye; you probably remember what they had during the USSR. Why not a barbell from the back? I attached a 25x25 mm square profile to the rod (after sanding it first). Remember there are curly bushings. With their help (it took three pieces), in one you need to drill a hole to 11 mm (rod diameter). I added a nut for 10 and a pin with a ball from the same bed, and it turned out to be a comfortable handle.

I decided to sharpen it with sandpaper, there is such a method, it seems to work out very inexpensively and quite well. I bought several sheets of sandpaper of different grain sizes. To avoid any sandpaper residue, the length of the square profile was made to match the width of the sandpaper sheet to 230 mm. I made a cut on the rod and drove an engraving washer there suitable size. Everything came together perfectly, as if it was intended for this.

I was afraid it would be difficult to center the profile, but in this way, the profile fell into place on its own. I glue the sandpaper onto the pencil with stationery glue.

Sharpener hinge

I thought for a long time about this unit, how to make it so that there was no backlash. I thought of doing this. I went to a bearing store and it turned out that there are such bearings as SHS (in my opinion, the sliding ball stands for). There are sizes 10, 12, 15 according to the inner diameter of the hole. But the rod is 11 mm. It's hard without a turner. But a way out was found. In the store across the road they sold spare parts for KAMAZ trucks, and there I found a brass bushing for 10mm brake pipes. I bought ShS-12 (65 rubles) and a bushing (8 rubles). At home I drove the bushing onto the rod, with a hammer it expanded remarkably, I ground it a little to the rod, which is what happened here. I inserted it into the joint (with glue, just in case, to eliminate play) and flared it. Everything has grown together again. There is still a little play left in the ShS itself, it is made in Russia and is a little loose (I went through about a dozen in the store - all of them are the same). I wanted to weld the welding joint to the nut for fastening, but another idea came to mind, how to do without welding. I went to a plumbing store and bought pipe fasteners. It says 3/8” costs 27 rubles. I sanded it a little so that the working angle of the joint did not decrease. Next, using a pin with an 8 mm thread, I connected the clamp with a long nut and in the right place I drilled a 9 mm hole using a long nut. The lamb was made from a purchased lamb for 5 rubles. Nuts and studs are the same at 8 mm.

When I assembled it (clamped the joint into the clamp), the play disappeared, the bolts of the clamp compress the joint and the play goes away completely. It turned out better than welding. And when worn out it is easy to replace.

Oddly enough, all the details fell perfectly into place. I had to do a minimum of alterations. There is no backlash. Everything turned out to be very simple, I even made a second rod to polish the cutting edge.

According to what I've learned, it took about half an hour on the second barbell. I glued it on the edge:

  • skin for Goya paste
  • clean skin
  • wooden ruler with Goya paste
  • clean wooden ruler

I use them in different sequences.

I want to say that the idea was a success, in two days I sharpened all the knives I could find. Angles can be measured using a household inclinometer, or a telephone with an installed program for measuring angles

Compared with manual method on stones, sharpens much easier and sharper. The paper is planed, the hair is shaved. I haven’t tried trimming my hair, I think it’s too sharp and has no use in life, although with due diligence you can achieve it.

Spent:

  • ShS-12 – 65 rubles;
  • brass bushing - 8 rubles;
  • clamp - 27 rubles;
  • lamb - 5 rubles;
  • long nut - 5 rubles;
  • a sheet of sandpaper 240 - 2 rubles;
  • sheet of sandpaper 600 - 2 rubles;
  • sheet of sandpaper 1000 - 10 rubles;
  • sheet of sandpaper 2000 - 10 rub..

Total: 134 rubles. The rest was found in the garage for nothing. And plus work with your hands and head.

Who is too lazy to tinker, I found an inexpensive sharpener of the same type, the reviews are good, you can buy it.

Also made by hand.

Sharp knives for you.

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  • sharpening machine.

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  • DIY knife sharpener

Sharpening video.

Every housewife at least once in her life has encountered the fact that the knives with which she usually cuts bread, butchers meat or chops vegetables become dull in her kitchen. Using such knives is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous, because the blade can fall off the product and injure you. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically sharpen the tool using special devices. In stores, such devices are presented in a huge assortment, but for certain reasons they do not suit consumers. In such a situation, you can make a knife sharpener with your own hands. In principle, it is not difficult to find drawings and diagrams for work, but detailed master classes we will present in this article.

What conditions must be observed when sharpening knives?

Do you know how to sharpen knives correctly? In fact, there are a number of rules, following which you can achieve an ideal result.

The necessary conditions look like this:

  • For long-term and efficient operation of knives, when sharpening them, it is necessary to pay maximum attention to the angle between the edges of the blade. During sharpening, it is imperative to restore the initially specified angle so that it meets technological standards and allows you to cut products quickly, efficiently, and freely.
  • Need to pick up optimal angle for each blade. So, for example, a scalpel or razor should have an angle of 10-15 degrees, devices for cutting fruits, bread and vegetables - 15-20 degrees. Knives for working with hard materials need to be sharpened at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
  • Without a special device, sharpening a blade is quite difficult. Holding the knife with your hands only, it is difficult to achieve the desired angle of inclination. So, it is precisely to facilitate this process that sharpeners exist.

In fact, making a knife with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears, because all such devices have simple design and it won’t take you much time to create them.

Types and production of sharpening stones

There are a large number of stones available for sale for sharpening knives, but the most popular types are the following:

  • Water tools. Working with them necessarily involves the use of water, thereby saving the surface of the stones.
  • Oil stone. It is very similar in shape and structure to water, the only difference is that its surface is slightly oily.
  • Natural stones. They are produced from natural materials, previously undergoing industrial processing.
  • Artificial tools. They are made from non-natural components.
  • Rubber devices. They are no less often found on sale, but working with them is extremely inconvenient.

Before you make a knife in the form of an abrasive bar, you need to purchase several glass plates 4-5 mm thick, rectangular in shape.

Then make a sharpener according to the scheme:

  1. Using double-sided tape, apply sandpaper of different grit levels to the surface of the plates.
  2. Tighten the nuts carefully to prevent the glass from cracking.

Important! During the operation of such a device, water is not used, which is why the abrasive wears out quite quickly.

When sharpening knives with an abrasive stone, you should avoid too sudden movements, otherwise it will overheat and the blade will lose its useful properties.

Products for sharpening knives made from wooden blocks

Making a sharpener from two abrasive and two wooden blocks is quite simple, the main thing is that starting materials were the same size.

You will need to do the following:

  • Thoroughly sand the wooden blocks with sandpaper and remove all burrs.
  • Pre-mark the bars, taking into account the required angle of inclination.
  • Attach a stone to the resulting line, on both sides wooden block mark its width.
  • Make cuts according to the markings on the wooden workpiece.

Important! Make sure that their depth does not exceed 1.5 cm.

  • Insert the abrasive stones into the resulting recesses so that they align with the grooves.
  • Secure the sharpening stones with bolts and attach a piece of rubber to the bottom.

Do-it-yourself knife from mounting corners

Use this master class to make a high-quality knife with your own hands. You can get the drawings on the Internet.

Tools and materials required for work:

  • Metal plates 4 by 11 cm.
  • Standard size aluminum corners.
  • Metal rods 15 cm long.
  • Sharpening machine with vice.
  • Needle file.
  • Set of bolts and nuts.
  • File.

Make a sharpener according to these instructions:

  1. Make markings according to the drawing for the holes in the plates.
  2. Drill holes, cut threads.
  3. Round off sharp edges and corners with a file.
  4. In accordance with the diagram, make holes in the corner.
  5. Use a file to widen the spoke support.
  6. Tap the holes for the studs.
  7. Insert the rods into the outer holes and secure them with nuts.
  8. Screw the bolt into the widest hole with the nut pre-screwed onto it.
  9. Insert bolts to clamp the knife into the remaining holes.
  10. Screw the nuts onto the ends of the rods, and place a corner on top to secure the nuts.
  11. Using a thin metal rod, a wing nut and two holders, assemble a device to hold the sharpening stone.

Important! Such a sharpener can have widest range degrees of clamping angle, it is incredibly convenient to use.

Making an electric knife sharpener at home

Making an electric knife with your own hands is a little more complicated, because the device itself has a complex design.

Prepare the following materials and devices:

  • Vacuum cleaner.
  • Plan-puck.
  • Electrical engine.
  • Stanin.
  • Fencing.

Complete the work strictly following the diagram.