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» Turnkey prefabricated houses: how construction technologies differ, how to choose the right one, photos of projects. Prefabricated houses: types, prices, advantages and disadvantages Construction of prefabricated houses on a turnkey basis

Turnkey prefabricated houses: how construction technologies differ, how to choose the right one, photos of projects. Prefabricated houses: types, prices, advantages and disadvantages Construction of prefabricated houses on a turnkey basis

  • Best price
    from 2000 RUR/m2
  • Work guarantee
    5 years
  • Project development
    up to 15 days
  • Project documentation
    not paid
  • Your decision
    turnkey tasks
  • Manufacturing
    structures up to 15 days

The Swedish technology for building prefabricated houses from metal structures has gained great popularity, since such houses and cottages have many advantages compared to houses built from brick or concrete.

The StalProfilGroup Group of Companies manufactures load-bearing frames of houses and buildings from galvanized profiles on a turnkey basis. As walls interfloor ceilings lungs are used building profiles, rack and guides. At a construction site, the installation of a metal frame can be carried out by a small team of semi-skilled workers, without the need to use heavy equipment.

Prefabricated houses made of metal structures are lightweight, so they do not need a thoroughly buried heavy foundation. As a result, inexpensive prefabricated houses made of metal structures allow you to significantly save on metal and concrete.

Prefabricated frame-panel houses are built much faster than houses made from other building materials. LSTK technology - the construction of houses from a metal frame without the use of liquids, solutions, mixtures - allows you to build low-rise houses from a thermoprofile in any weather. Finishing interior walls You can start immediately after the construction of the main walls is completed. Homes from metal frames do not require shrinkage and can withstand heavy loads. All internal communications are located within the walls of the building.

BASIC BUILDING KIT OPTION:

Foundation:
  • strip shallow - monolithic reinforced concrete
Exterior walls:
  • supporting frame – galvanized steel thermal profile 150/200-2.0 mm
  • cladding - siding
Internal walls:
  • load-bearing – galvanized steel thermal profile 150/200-2.0 mm
  • partitions - galvanized steel thermoprofile" 100/150-1.0/1.2 mm
  • sheathing – SML boards or plasterboard
  • insulation – mineral wool board based on basalt fibers (at the customer’s request - monolithic foam concrete)
Floors with subfloor:
  • light beams - galvanized steel thermal profile 200/250-2.0 mm
  • moisture-resistant plywood or OSB-3
  • insulation – mineral wool board based on basalt fibers (at the customer’s request - monolithic foam concrete)
Roof:
  • light beams - galvanized steel thermal profile 200-2.0 mm + lathing
  • cladding – moisture-resistant plywood FSF
  • insulation – mineral wool board based on basalt fibers + wind insulation
  • covering (finishing) - bitumen shingles

Mineral wool is usually used as insulation in prefabricated frame houses made of metal profiles, and for wind protection, frame houses made of LGSK are sheathed with glass-magnesium sheets (GMS) or cement-bonded particle boards (CSP). All other finishing of prefabricated houses is carried out taking into account the tastes and wishes of the Customer. The choice on the building materials market is huge. By connecting your imagination and common sense, you can build a unique prefabricated prefabricated house made of LSTK - warm, versatile, spacious, and most importantly, inexpensive!

Buy a prefabricated metal frame house on a turnkey basis

Uses laminated veneer lumber and frame technology

Frame houses do not shrink, and the shrinkage of houses made of laminated veneer lumber is extremely insignificant, so there is no need to wait for the house to stand. Glued laminated timber is a material that does not require finishing, but frame house can be finished immediately, during the construction process. This saves a lot of time.

Always has building materials available

Laminated timber and all lumber are produced at the company's own factories. Moreover, they are produced from wood, which is harvested only in winter and for the whole year. A powerful production base including workshops with an area of ​​28,000 m2 and giant warehouses, the total area of ​​which is more than 20,000 m2, allows us to annually process up to 180,000 cubic meters of wood and store lumber in necessary conditions without loss of quality. Products purchased, e.g. soft roof, siding, etc. are ordered only from reliable suppliers who have proven themselves over many years of successful cooperation with Zodchiy.

An annual analysis of macro- and microeconomic indicators helps to formulate a forecast and plan the company’s work for the short and long term, so that all production is always provided with everything necessary for smooth operation.

It is profitable for the “architect” to build houses on time!

“Zodchiy” builds houses without prepayment. The customer pays for the work only after completion of each stage of construction. Therefore, it is not profitable for the company to violate deadlines, especially since after signing an agreement with the customer, which strictly fixes the date of delivery of the object, Zodchy officially bears legal responsibility for the obligations undertaken and the timely completion of all work.

Experienced builders work on sites

80% of the builders who are involved in the construction of prefabricated houses have been working at Zodchy for several years. But despite this, they still undergo annual recertification. Newcomers are sent to the site only after training and begin working in the company under the guidance of experienced craftsmen.

All this applies not only to prefabricated large cottages, but also to inexpensive country houses economy class. You can see prefabricated houses from Zodchego, find out their cost and buy the one you like at an attractive price at the company’s exhibition sites.

Prefabricated houses are attractive because once the foundation is ready, the house itself can be erected very quickly. For example, building frame house with your own hands, with the help of two people, it is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved in the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. This is because the assembly occurs step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to correctly assemble each unit. Having instructions and understanding the principle of construction, anyone can assemble a frame house on their own.

No less attractive frame construction that you can get by minimal costs. How much money will be required for construction depends on the size of the house, the materials used (type and type of wood, Decoration Materials). But in any case, this is one of the cheapest methods. (

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions where wood is a luxury. They put it there. Despite the fact that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

One more thing. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to leave a frame house unfinished, and if so, at what stages. The answer is yes, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to winter. The following wintering options are also possible:

  • foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
  • foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection;
  • foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection + mounted and insulated floor and ceiling + partitions.

It is dangerous to leave windows and doors unattended over the winter. In other options, delaying the completion of construction is even a good idea: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, there is low humidity and drying is active. At the same time, identify all the jambs in the already assembled part.

After pouring the piles, a grillage is installed, and the reinforcement is laid and tied into it. Longitudinal rods are connected to bent reinforcement outlets from the piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and (insert pieces plastic pipes across the tape).

The strapping beam will subsequently be attached to the foundation strip. To install it, studs are fixed in the tape. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. From each corner, 30 cm are retreated in both directions. Here, studs are required, the rest depending on the dimensions of the house, but at least every 2 meters. Please note that it is the studs that connect the frame of the house to the foundation. That’s why it’s better to deliver more often. And one more thing: no matter how short the wall is, there must be at least two studs.

When everything is ready, the concrete is poured.

After pouring the concrete, so that it does not dry out, but gains strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (look at the photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation remains within +20°C, construction can continue after about 3-5 days. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will gain more than 50% of its strength. You can work with it freely. When the temperature drops, the period increases significantly. So at +17°C you need to wait about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

To prevent the wood of the frame from drawing moisture from the concrete, cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The safest way to do this is bitumen mastic. And it’s better - in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. Roofing felt is cheaper, but it breaks over time. Waterproofing or other similar modern material is more reliable.

You can coat the grillage once with mastic, and roll out waterproofing on top. Another option for cut-off waterproofing under a frame house is two layers of waterproofing coated with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

First layer - liquid waterproofing, While it is not dry, you can glue a layer of rolled paper onto it

Then the beds are laid - boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and fire-retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. In the necessary places, holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is placed so as to cover the joint of the first row. It turns out to be a castle.

The second board is laid so that the joints overlap

In general, you can lay one beam of 100-150 cm, but its price is much higher than two boards, which together give the same thickness, and properly fastened two boards have a larger bearing capacity, although it takes longer to install them. To make them work as a single beam, they are knocked down with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

We install the harness and logs

The next stage is installation and installation of the logs. These are the same 150*50 mm boards placed on edge. They are attached with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the trim board, two nails on the right and left to the bed. So each lag is on both sides.

The photo shows that the first joist is installed close to the second - this way the load is better transferred to the foundation. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the length of the span and the cross-section of the lumber used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

If the logs are long and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, to prevent the logs from “moving away,” jumpers are placed above the cross beam. Their length is equal to the step of installing the logs minus the double thickness of the board: if the step of the log is 55 cm, the thickness of the board is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base for the flooring has been installed, it is time to insulate the floor. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We will show you an economical option - with polystyrene foam boards with a density of 15 kg/m3 (more is possible, less is not possible). It is, of course, not environmentally friendly, but it is the only one that is not afraid of moisture and can be installed without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (they shift).

To begin with, a 50*50 mm cranial block is packed along the lower edge of the log. It will hold the foam.

The foam is cut with a regular hacksaw. You can take the blade for wood - it cuts faster, but it turns out torn edge or on metal - it goes slower, but the edge is smoother. The cut slabs are laid in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they seal the perimeter with sealant to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay the subfloor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). To prevent the rough flooring of boards from warping, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to look up and down (see photo).

You can do without plank flooring. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your region and choose.

In any case, the sheets should be laid in a spaced pattern - the seams should not match (as in brickwork). Also, do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets of plywood to compensate for changes in size when humidity changes.

The plywood is attached with self-tapping screws 35 mm long (preferably white ones - less waste) around the perimeter in increments of 12 cm, inside in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 40 cm.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part, depending on the size) on the floor, then raised, positioned and secured. Sometimes with this method, OSB, gypsum fiber board, plywood with outside frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-panel or “platform”. Factories generally operate according to this principle: they build ready-made panels according to the design in the workshop, bring them to the site and only install them there. But frame-panel house construction is possible with your own hands.

The second method: everything is assembled gradually, locally. The beam of the bottom frame is nailed, the corner posts are set, then the intermediate posts, the top frame, etc. This is the technology called “frame house construction” or “balloon”.

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract help. Working on the floor is faster and more convenient than jumping up/down a stepladder countless times. But if the section is assembled large, then it will be difficult even for two people to lift it. The solution is either to call help or to break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation step and cross-section of racks

Corner posts should be 150*150 mm or 100*100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house - at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner posts, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.

The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will be insulating with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, no gaps and cracks through which heat will escape. The density of installation of insulation in frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

Mounting the racks is possible in several ways: wooden dowels, with a notch or on the corners. The cut into the board of the bottom trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. The corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels - old technology, but difficult to execute: long dowels are planed, a hole is drilled diagonally through the stand and beam of the lower trim, a wooden tenon is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood used is dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity is possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

According to Canadian technology, the beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore the support must be more powerful.

Reinforced counters near windows and doors are a must. This is the only way a frame house built with your own hands will be reliable

Bevels or braces

If the outer cladding is planned from slab material high strength - OSB, GVL, GVK, plywood - the cuts are placed temporarily and from inside the room. They are needed to level and maintain geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is sufficient to create the required structural rigidity.

If the cladding is planned to be made up of linings, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. Moreover the best option- not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Please note that in the photo above the racks are prefabricated: two boards are nailed together along the entire length in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones and cost less. This real way reduce construction costs without losing quality. But construction time increases: you have to hammer in a lot of nails.

Corners of a frame house

The most questions arise when constructing corners. If you place a beam in a corner, then there seem to be no difficulties, except that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winter this is not a problem, but already in middle lane Russia requires some kind of solution.

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so it’s clearer.

After assembling the frame, it is most often sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Covering

Floor beams rest on timber top harness. There are several mounting methods:

  • on supporting steel brackets;
  • on the corners;
  • with insert;

Notching - the depth of the cut should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the top frame timber. It is hammered in from above with two nails, which must go into the harness at least 10 cm. Corners are the usual method. You can use reinforced, but not necessarily perforated staples - the shape may vary

The dimensions of the beams and the pitch of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or, the cross-section is taken larger, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and attic on top are assumed to be non-residential, these are completely different calculations and dimensions.

If a second floor is being built, the ceiling is sheathed with the subfloor of the second floor. This will make it easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first one. The only reason is that all the lumber has to be hauled to the second floor.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project according to frame technology the most popular are or. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only limitation concerns weight roofing: it must be lightweight material, the load from which they can withstand wooden beams and floors.

To fix the rafters in a given position before the sheathing was filled, temporary jibs were used

Another relatively inexpensive technology

Step 6: Insulation

A frame house can be insulated with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is available in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the pushing force. To do this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm more distance between the frame posts. The mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work with than with a soft roll.

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and good sound insulation. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected on all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room it is covered with a layer vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from getting inside.

On the street side, the thermal insulation made of mineral wool is covered with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-protective vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown, does not allow moisture in liquid or gaseous states to pass through from the street, and vapors can escape from the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only Finishing work. Actually, that's it, construction is over.

Now you know how to build a frame house. The detail of some processes is far from complete, but you have a general assembly sequence. Perhaps another video from a professional carpenter who has been building for decades will help you frame houses(see below).

Video instructions for installing frame houses

These are three videos of excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each of them lasts more than an hour. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.

According to this instructions self-construction possible without any questions: all stages of building a frame house and small details are commented on and explained, down to what nails, what length, how many pieces in what increments, should be hammered into each node. The main problems that may arise and methods for correcting them are demonstrated. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clearer to you.

The first part is the lower trim and the floor.

The second part of the video is the design and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is building the roof of a frame house.

If you still doubt whether to build a frame house, it’s probably because you’ve heard that this is a bad technology, that it doesn’t work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are built from dry wood, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood is brought from the sawmill almost natural humidity, and this is up to 60%. That’s why the houses twist and turn, they become cold.

But if you are planning to build a house with your own hands, what will stop you from using dry wood? Kiln drying is expensive, the difference per cubic meter is very significant - almost twice. But by stacking the wood on the site in ventilated piles, it can be dried to the same 20-22% within a year. You decide for yourself whether or not to impregnate it with bioprotection before drying. Dry wood does not rot or be damaged by fungi, but it is advisable to impregnate it with bioprotection against insects.

An example of this opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad...

Construction using traditional “brick” technology is a long and labor-intensive process. When starting it, the owners do not know when they will celebrate the housewarming. Additional costs, change of contractors, problems family budget delay the move-in date for months and years.

A reasonable alternative to long waits is the construction of prefabricated houses. Its cost and timing can be determined at the stage of ordering a house kit.

An efficient contractor installs a panel or frame “box” in two to three weeks. Interior decoration takes a minimum of time, since the walls of such a house are already sheathed sheet material and do not require plastering work.

The only problem for the developer is choosing the optimal construction technology. In this article we will look at the most common installation methods, as well as evaluate the advantages and weak sides such houses.

The main idea and options for its implementation

The construction process is accelerated by three factors:

  1. High installation readiness of structures.
  2. Large panel area.
  3. Using effective insulation.

While the mason spends several hours on brickwork 1 m2 of wall, installers install a slab with an area of ​​6 square meters in a few minutes. The insulation placed between the sheathing lightens the weight of the wall several times and gives it excellent thermal insulation properties.

The spatial rigidity of prefabricated buildings is achieved in two ways:

The following types of high-speed construction are most widespread these days:

  • prefabricated houses made of sandwich panels (Canadian, German and Finnish);
  • frame buildings (insulated wooden frame, sheathed on the construction site with sheet material);
  • LSTK metal frame technology;
  • modular buildings.

High-speed construction from reinforced concrete panels is most often implemented in the field of multi-storey urban housing. In the private sector this technology rarely used.

Frame-panel technology (sandwich panels made of metal profiles hung on a steel frame) has not taken root in housing construction. It is used in the construction of workshops, warehouses and other industrial facilities.

Despite different names, Canadian, Finnish and German technology high-speed housing construction are based on general idea. It consists in the fact that the floor, walls and roof of the house are assembled from factory-ready insulated panels.

Structural diagram of a house wall made of insulated panels

The differences between the listed methods lie not in the installation method, but in the insulation. The Canadian SIP board uses polystyrene foam, while the Finnish and German ones most often use mineral wool. In addition, the Germans at the factory “stuff” their panels with utility lines and apply the final finish, thereby reducing the duration of construction.

The frame structure is a wooden frame made of timber, filled with insulation. Plywood, slab or wooden lining is used as cladding.

Option for installing a frame house wall

Prefabricated ones are assembled not in the workshop, but on the site. In the factory, a house kit is made for them. It consists of frame beams, cut to design dimensions, cladding sheets, floor beams and trusses. At the site, installers assemble the frame, then sheathe it on the outside, insulate it and install internal lining. The assembly time of such a building is longer than that of a panel building and requires high qualifications.

In addition to wood, galvanized steel is increasingly being used to make frames. A bent metal profile for a prefabricated building is similar in configuration and joining methods to plasterboard. Its thickness is 2-3 mm. This is enough to make the frame strong and light.

The abbreviated name of such a profile is LSTK ( light steel thin-walled design).

House frame assembled from LSTK

In Russia, houses built using this technology are best known under the INSI brand.

The process of installing a frame from an INSI profile

This is the same galvanized steel profile from which the load-bearing spatial lattice of the building is assembled. After completing the installation operations, the frame honeycombs are sheathed and filled with mineral wool insulation.

Wall design and options exterior finishing house built from metal profiles

Concluding our short review, we note that the leaders in construction speed are prefabricated modular houses.

In most cases, they are completely assembled in a factory. Each residential module has a floor, walls and ceiling. All communications are laid in it, doors, windows are installed and finishing. At the construction site all that remains is to install modular blocks on the foundation and connect them together.

Advantages, disadvantages of prefabricated houses and reviews from owners

The main advantage of such buildings is the high speed of construction. It is also important that the customer knows the final cost of his home when purchasing, which does not increase by the time it is completed.

Prefabricated buildings are light in weight, so they can be erected on inexpensive piles, columns or shallow foundations strip foundation. The insulation of such a house meets strict thermal standards, so its heating costs are minimal.

The disadvantages of prefabricated buildings in which it is used include a low level of noise insulation. Mineral wool is better in this regard. Unlike expanded polystyrene, it does not resonate, but absorbs sound.

Another disadvantage is low thermal inertia. Lightweight thermal panels cannot store much heat, so after turning off the heating, such a house cools down very quickly.

The use of metal siding, OSB boards and other “non-breathable” materials in the cladding necessitates the installation of mechanical ventilation (additional costs). Without it, the building will be stuffy and damp.

Reviews from owners contain positive assessments of the energy savings of prefabricated houses. Even in areas with harsh winters, they retain heat well and do not require large heating costs.

Self-assembly of prefabricated buildings is not as simple and easy as it might seem at first glance. Therefore, developers who have completed this work on their own admit that without professional skills it will not be possible to do it efficiently and quickly.

Approximate prices

The main motivation for buying a prefabricated house is that it saves time and money.

If in principle everything is clear with the timing of the work, with intensive construction in 2-3 months you will get a house in which you can already live, then with financial side The issue is much more complicated.

To understand the estimated cost of building a turnkey house using the chosen technology, you need to carefully analyze the information from construction companies.

In 2016, the cost of 1 m2 of a house made of SIP panels for finishing starts at 22 thousand rubles. At the same time, when planning your budget, it is worth considering that this price correctly includes only Construction Materials and work, engineering Communication will be a separate expense item.

A simple frame house with a foundation, installation of all main structures and elements, as well as finishing will cost from 15 thousand rubles per square.

A prefabricated house made from INSI metal structures in the simplest configuration will cost an average of 12 thousand rubles per 1 m2.

Canadian houses are warm and cozy houses, which, at their very low cost, are excellent for permanent residence. Due to the fact that developers are constantly improving the construction technologies used, they have virtually no disadvantages.

Frame house design

Among the most significant advantages of prefabricated construction, it is worth noting the assembly, which, due to its simplicity and convenience, is accessible even to beginners. Design Canadian home consists of a frame covered with wooden SIP panels, which saves additional funds on the construction of the foundation. Houses of this type are durable structures with excellent sound and thermal insulation characteristics. They are reliable and durable, characterized by high installation speed, precision joints and ease of assembly, low cost and great finishing capabilities.

Scheme of finishing and insulation of a frame prefabricated house

You can build houses from SIP panels even in winter time of the year. Thanks to the preparation of the necessary solutions, as well as the absence of freezing processes of the material, housing construction proceeds quickly and without difficulties.


Project of a prefabricated house from SIP panels

From SIP, houses with an attic, as well as two- and three-story houses. Structures in the construction of which ECOPAN panels are used will cost approximately 6,500 rubles/m2, for one set for self-installation. When purchasing a box house that will be on a foundation screw piles, focus on prices starting from 12,000 rubles/m2. Canadian house on pile foundation with a door, windows and a roof made of ondulin it will cost about 14,500 rubles/m2. If the home will be held engineering systems, then the cost will increase to 19,000 rubles per 1 square meter. Fully finished building(turnkey) will cost about 23,000 rubles/m2.

The construction of a frame house takes approximately 1-2 months, while finished design does not require additional time for shrinkage.

In this video you can learn about the features of constructing a frame house

You can build the structure with your own hands, but only professional specialists should develop it, or you can use already finished project, if its layout suits you completely.

If you want to tackle design issues yourself, then you will need to work. The most popular among them are Floor Plan 3D, ArchiCAD, ArCon, Google SketchUp, AutodeskAutoCad. should be carried out taking into account the needs of all family members, since redevelopment in the future can be very expensive.

Prefabricated house project

The project of a one-story frame house can undoubtedly be classified as economical and at the same time comfortable housing, with a rational layout and all the necessary premises.


Project of a prefabricated one-story frame house

The standard rooms in any residential building are a living room, an entrance hall, two bedrooms, a bathroom and a kitchen-dining room. If desired, you can allocate one of the premises for traditional element Finnish frame house - sauna. Housing with this layout is ideal for small areas.

Read also

Individual house design

Tools and materials for building a house using Canadian technology

Before you start building a house, you need to prepare all the materials and tools.

Tools:

  • chisel,
  • nail puller,
  • screwdrivers,
  • jigsaw,
  • drill with drill bits,
  • hammers,
  • plumb and level,
  • tassels,
  • electric plane,
  • construction pencil or chalk,
  • ladder and scaffolding,
  • circular saw for wood.

Construction Materials:

  • steel reinforcement;
  • boards for load-bearing walls(5x15x400);
  • waterproofing materials;
  • wind protection film;
  • metal roof tiles;
  • OSB boards 22 mm thick;
  • concrete for the foundation;
  • board for internal partitions(5x10x400);
  • drywall for interior decoration walls;
  • materials for external wall cladding;
  • pine board for the floor frame (5x2x400);
  • communications;
  • insulating materials.

Foundation for a frame house

In order to ensure greater reliability and stability of the structure, it is recommended to build concrete foundation. During the execution of work, care should be taken in advance to carry out high-quality waterproofing the material used.

Due to the light weight of the structure of a prefabricated frame house, shrinkage of the soil under the foundation, as a rule, does not occur. A pillar foundation made of asbestos pipes is perfect as a base (see photo). In the soil layers approximately every 80 cm it is necessary to make holes a meter deep and with a diameter of 20 cm. Pipes are installed in them, the height of which reaches 1.4 meters. Each of the pipes should be carefully covered with earth, which is then compacted. Then in inner space Concrete is poured into the pipes.


Pillar foundation made of pipes for a frame house

Frame house floor

When constructing a floor, boards are first laid (for example, timber with a cross-section of 5x20 cm), which make it possible to determine the location of future premises. In order to prevent wood rotting, treatment is carried out wooden elements using an antiseptic. To protect the boards from contact with moisture from the foundation, a layer of roofing material is placed under them.

The geometry of your future home directly depends on the accuracy with which the boards will be laid on the foundation, so do not forget to carefully check their position using a level. Maximum tolerance from the horizontal at the corners is about 10 mm. The boards are fastened to the foundation using anchor bolts, the distance between which does not exceed two meters.

In houses using Finnish technology, the floor is made from the same type of wood that was used to build the walls. When making a base floor, uncut boards are usually used, which are low in cost. Then logs are laid on the floor, where the flooring boards will be attached in the future. Any suitable insulation (for example, polystyrene foam or mineral wool) is placed in the free space between the joists.

The floor covering is made of smooth and neat boards 5x15 cm, which are nailed to the joists and sealed with staples.


Scheme for laying a wooden floor from planks

Frame house walls

Before you begin assembling the walls, you must carefully ensure that the floor is smooth and flat surface. Otherwise, existing irregularities can cause distortions that are very difficult to eliminate. If everything is in order, you can start assembling the frame.