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» Make your home comfortable if age or health fails. How to make a double bed with your own hands, as well as assembling diagrams and drawings How to enlarge a crib yourself

Make your home comfortable if age or health fails. How to make a double bed with your own hands, as well as assembling diagrams and drawings How to enlarge a crib yourself

A broken bed is not a reason to run to the store, especially if you have beams and screws at home. With the help of simple materials, anyone can make a double bed with their own hands, and personal preferences and wishes will serve as a guide.

The original bed will exactly match the required size, height and weight of the owner, and will also fit perfectly into the overall interior design.

The base is wood

The bed frame can be made of iron or wood. And if the first option requires special skills in working with iron and hard-to-find materials in the form profile pipes, then everyone can find bars economic person along with the ability to operate a screwdriver and tighten screws.

The assembly of such furniture will take no more than 10 days, and only safe and high-quality materials are used: self-tapping screws, sheet plywood, MDF panel, metal corners, PVA glue, beams and dowels.

Some recommendations will help you competently and quickly assemble a strong and stable bed:

  • It is better to give preference flat timber on laminated pine about 200 cm long;
  • It is recommended to compare the dimensions of the future frame with a pre-purchased mattress;
  • To complement the design of the drawers, you should purchase chipboard sheets;
  • Self-tapping screws and other fasteners are purchased with a reserve;
  • There should be no roughness at the base of the bends of metal corners, indicating poor quality.

Let's start assembling

Once everything you need is ready, you can start assembling the bed. The manufacturing diagram below will serve as the algorithm. constituent elements DIY beds.

Frame and stiffeners

The first step is to make a rectangular frame, each side of which consists of three beams fastened in height. Next, the following manipulations are necessary:

  • A beam measuring 4x5 cm is sawn into 4 parts: two 16 cm and two 21 cm, which are laid out on the floor along with the frame and secured with PVA furniture glue.
  • The second layer is laid out parallel to the beams, firmly fixed with self-tapping screws on both sides. Periodically it is necessary to check the evenness of the structure with a tape measure or rope. Excess glue that appears should be immediately wiped off with a cloth, not allowing it to dry.
  • For the base of the bed, slats with a thickness of at least 3 cm are taken. To enhance the load-carrying capacity, a “stiffening rib” is made in the center, running along the bed and having two supports.

Legs and supports

Four supports are needed in each corner. Each leg is made from two pieces of 4x5 cm timber, gluing their seams with PVA, connecting them together with self-tapping screws and attaching them to the main frame. After which the product is turned over and installed on its legs.

Mattress base

Support bars are provided in the bed drawing and depending on suitable option come in various thicknesses, heights and locations. Most often they are equal to the internal length of the frame and are attached at the level of the second row.

To create an optimal orthopedic base, the slats are fixed at a distance of about 20 mm, fixing them at the edges and in the center with two self-tapping screws in each place. Afterwards, the future bed is left to allow the glue to dry.

Sanding and painting

The final treatment consists of sanding the entire surface and thoroughly washing the product. Before painting, a protective wood primer is applied to the perimeter of the structure, and the bed is painted with high-quality wear-resistant varnish in 3-4 layers.

Modernizing standards

One bed is good, but a children’s bed and a bunk bed are even better, especially since making it with your own hands is as easy as a standard model.

When choosing a suitable scheme, you can experiment with the dimensions and design: make two beds, place them on the ground floor desk, sofa or cabinets.

Experienced and motivated craftsmen will also be interested in another modern and functional model– bed-podium. In this case, you will have to accurately measure all the dimensions of the room and prepare lumber in strict accordance with the required area.

Drawers at the bottom of the bed are required hidden by panels sidewalls.

If your soul and body require a new bed, then don’t rush to the store. Making this piece of furniture with your own hands is simple and quick, and the final result will directly depend on individual wishes, taste and space.

DIY bed photo

Note!

During the gardening and holiday season, I want to spend more time on fresh air near your favorite beds, spruce forest and river. But we have to waste time returning to the apartment under the roof of a city high-rise building, because garden house no comfortable beds , and yours living room without a bedroom and a night bed stands right next to dining table. Do not despair!

It all depends on how and where you want to use it. For your teenage child, a single bed will be enough beds . If you are of a large build, then comfortable sleep will only come with a semi-truck.

Are you married? This means you need a double bed made of solid wood.

If there is enough space, then install it under the podium pull-out bed, and place on top cozy area lounge with a coffee table, to which steps lead. IN small room where everyone is precious square meter, build bed on the podium.

Build in drawers to store bedding, clothes and other items.

For bed linen, place a tall narrow drawer with a hinged top lid at the head. It is convenient to store pillows and blankets during the day and a cape at night.Assemble a beautiful decorative backrest and nail it to the wall above the headboard. Place night lights on it.

This will give your bed aristocratic chic and comfort.

Select material and decide on price

Metal is too expensive and requires a specially equipped workshop, welding machine, has a high specific gravity and does not retain heat well. Nice furniture you can assemble houses from quite affordable lumber without overpaying for a well-known brand.

Construction wooden bed Doing it yourself will cost less than buying it ready-made in a store.

How to make a wooden bed with your own hands

Best suited for beds wood of medium density (from 550 to 760 kg/m³) and high density - over 760 kg/m³. It wears out less, but is harder to process.

Pine is optimal for strength and ease of processing.

IMPORTANT! Spruce is not suitable for load-bearing elements And bed legs . It quickly collapses under stress.

For the supporting frame, select boards or timber made of dense wood - larch, birch. The legs can be made from bars, and the slats for the mattress can be made from cheap pine boards 2 cm thick. For decorative finishing thin ones will do spruce boards 0.5 cm. Carefully check the material for knots, unevenness and roughness.

The fewer such defects, the easier it is to process it with a grinding machine.

Check the curvature of workpieces in a simple and effective way.

  1. Lift it by one of the ends to eye level.
  2. The ribs running from the near to the far end should present a straight line in perspective - their curvature will be noticeable immediately.

ATTENTION! Be sure to make a drawing. Consider the dimensions of your mattress. They may not match the ones below. Inner space frames beds there should be a little more. An allowance of 30 mm is allowed.

Immediately decide on the presence and height of the legs.

Bed solid wood can be made without them by gluing fabric pads at the corners to protect the floor from scratches. For light single and one-and-a-half-bed rooms optimal height will be 35-40 cm - you can vacuum and wash the floor or build drawer for storing things and clothes.

ADVICE! Try to strengthen the joints with furniture corners where possible.

Making a bed out of wood with your own hands may not be the most simple solution, but the most profitable.

Entry level bed

Under a mattress measuring 80x190 or 90x200 cm, build a simple single bed DIY wooden bed . It is suitable for an adult or teenager. For production you will need:

  • B rus for four legs with a section of 50x50mm;
  • D frame 25x245 mm for side edges and footboard, 25x100 mm - for making overlapping slats, 25x200 mm- for the headboard wall;
  • B rus with a section of 50x25mm for the manufacture of support beams for floor slats;

Materials for making a bed.

Except good lumber buy:

  • Furniture corners or bed ties.
  • TO fastening screws 60 mm;
  • Shingles length 80 and section diameter 8 mm;
  • With wood glue;
  • M orilka or impregnation for wood;
  • A krill water varnish.

Materials required for work.

During the assembly of this and other options beds use tools:

  • D rail and screwdriver;
  • N small hand plane;
  • R circular saw or furniture hacksaw;
  • Sh lifting machine or grinding machine;
  • N several clamps;
  • TO sources for applying glue, varnish and stain;
  • R sliding joiner's square;
  • WITH construction level;
  • M alka - a device for quickly marking corners to be cut;
  • WITH tuslo - a tool for quickly and accurately cutting workpieces at an angle of 45 and 90°;
  • AND measuring tape.

Tools that will come in handy at work.

First, assemble the headboard. Cut out two legs up to 80 cm high from a beam with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. Drill 4-6 holes with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 30 mm in their upper part from the inner sides. From boards 25x200 mm, cut two blanks 950 mm wide. At the ends, make holes up to 50 mm deep, matching those you made on the legs.

Lubricate the parts with wood glue at the joints and fasten them with dowels, carefully hammering them in with a mallet.

The footboard is made from boards 25x240x950 mm and two pieces of timber 400 mm high.

They are fastened in the same way.

The backs are fastened to the side walls 25x250x1900 mm with furniture corners or ties, aligned along the outer edge legs

FOR YOUR INFORMATION! Ties will make it easy to disassemble furniture when moving.

Along the lower edge of the right and left walls, using wood glue and clamps, install support beams 25x50 mm and length 190-200 cm. After drying, before removing the clamps, the beams are additionally screwed with self-tapping screws.

Assembling the side wall of the bed.

Make 12-14 transverse slats from 25x100 mm boards length 95 cm. From the left and right ends, through holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled at a distance of 12 mm from the edge. Lay them across the support beams at a distance of 35-50 mm and tighten the screws.

Final assembly of the bed.

IMPORTANT! All parts must be sanded before assembly. Using a sliding square, check the “straightness” of the corners between the side walls and backs beds . Construction level control the horizontal arrangement of frame structural elements.

Sand the rough surface with a sander. From the outer edges of the backrests and other parts to prevent wood chipping and improve appearance you can remove the chamfer. To increase service life, treat wood stain and dry. Cover acrylic varnish.

As you can see, making a wooden single bed is not at all difficult.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION! To the ends legs When moving, they did not scratch the floor; you can glue felt pads to them.

Single bed

There are differences in the design of the backrests, and its longitudinal axis is reinforced with a jumper with a leg that prevents the mattress from sagging.

Made for a mattress with dimensions 140x200 cm.

The headboard of the lorry consists of a wall and two legs . Make a wall from 2-3 boards length 1400 mm and 25 mm thick, reaching up to required height(30-40 cm). The legs are made of timber 50x50x800 mm. Fastening wall elements and legs made with 8x80 mm dowels, wood glue and reinforced with long self-tapping screws from 65 mm.

The footboard is assembled in the same way.

Side rails of the bed - the one-and-a-half-length frames should be located on the same level with the lower boards of the backrests and have the same height.Change the design of the backrests for variety beds . The middle board of the wall can be replaced with short vertical inserts from the same boards fastened with tongues.

You can cut off the corners at the outer edge of the top board.

To do this using special tool– small ones – make markings with a pencil. The malka consists of a handle pressed to the edge boards , a narrow metal plate with a longitudinal cutout, and a fastening bolt that allows you to fix the plate by setting the desired angle and length of the cut. In this simple way you will quickly draw symmetrical cutting lines on the left and right ends. To prevent the hacksaw from leaving the line, press a wooden guide block along the marking with clamps.

To give interesting looking Before varnishing a bed, you can limit yourself to applying stain only to the surface of the legs and backs.

How to make a double bed out of wood

Two adults is a serious weight, which requires a more thorough approach in choosing the material and assembly method. Make a sleeping bed from solid wood.

The basis is a standard double mattress measuring 200 by 160 cm.

You will need the following materials:

  • Used 50x50 mm lining for bed legs and frame, 3x3 cm – for support beams for mattress slats;
  • D boards 20x100 mm for cross-section under the mattress;
  • M metal furniture corner with shelf width from 50 mm;
  • With amorez 40 and 65 mm long.

Tools you will need electric jigsaw, equipped with a file with large and widely spaced teeth.

First we assemble the frame for beds With internal dimensions 210x170 cm and a height of at least 15-20 cm. To do this, we glue together three or four pieces of timber and tighten them with clamps. After drying, we saw it in such a way as to obtain two blanks for the side edges. length 220 cm each and two for the backs - 180 cm each.

In the same way, we assemble a longitudinal jumper 10 cm high and 210 cm long.

When assembling, use a lock type connection. To do this, cut out a notch on short workpieces using a jigsaw, removing a section from the middle length 5 cm. On long side wall blanks beds , leave a “thorn” by sawing off 5 cm at the top and bottom.

Apply glue to the grooves and spikes and connect them at right angles, checking with a sliding “square”.

Attach the longitudinal jumper with additional support in the middle using metal corner with a shelf width of 50 mm, aligned with the bottom edge of the frame. Attach timber legs up to 40 cm high in the corners. Fasten with glue and self-tapping screws.

For strength, secure the connections with clamps.

For greater reliability, make legs beds from a thicker bar. To give them an elegant look, chamfer the inside at an angle of 45° using a miter box. Don't overdo it - the support area should be large enough to support the heavy weight. When installing the legs, use long countersunk head bolts with washers and wood glue.

At the bottom of each corner, place triangular inserts to prevent deformation of the structure.

Glue beams made of 3x3x210 cm timber along the long side walls.

Their top edge must be in the same plane with top edge jumpers.

Slats are made from 20x100 mm boards length 170 cm. They are laid and secured across the lintel and longitudinal support beams at intervals of 3 cm.

The first and last slats must be adjacent to the front and back walls frame, the rest are evenly distributed between them.

IMPORTANT! To prevent the slats from squeaking, make them 1 cm shorter than the internal width of the frame.

After completing the assembly, carefully sand the surface with a sander or drill with a special attachment using medium and fine-grained sandpaper.Cover with stain, and after drying, apply several layers of water-based acrylic varnish.

For double bed you can make a wall-mounted headboard from 2-3 boards length 25x100x1800 mm and 10-12 boards 25x100x450 mm. The first row that will be in contact with the back will be short boards . Hidden fasteners must be installed on the reverse side. At the corresponding places of the headboard, screw metal plates with self-tapping screws, the free lower edge of which will be inserted into the grooves of the tires when hanging.

The most reliable solution would be to fix the tires with dowels on the wall. wall cabinets- by the number of short boards.

If you don’t like a hard headboard, assemble it with upholstery from the following layers:

  • D SP or plywood 1 cm;
  • Foam rubber from 3 cm;
  • In atin;
  • ABOUT beating fabric with an interesting pattern;

Cut out a base 45x180 cm from a piece of plywood or chipboard.

Bevel the ribs and sand them thoroughly so as not to tear the upholstery and batting.

From polystyrene foam or foam rubber, cut out a blank that matches in size and shape. Attach it to the chipboard and make several symmetrical holes for decorative buttons. Measure and cut the batting and upholstery fabric according to the shape of the workpiece with an allowance, equal to the amount thickness of all workpieces, multiplied by two.

Make sure that the holes are located symmetrically.

Using glue or a special spray, glue the foam rubber to the base. Carefully lay the batting on the floor. Place the chipboard blank on it.

Fold the seamed edges, starting from the bottom, and nail them to the chipboard using a furniture stapler.

Repeat this operation with the upholstery. To prevent the fabric from wrinkling, iron it with an iron and tighten it properly using clamps screwed to the middle of the workpiece.

IMPORTANT! Don't skimp on staples. Nobody will see them anyway.

Finally, “sew on” the sofa buttons. From the underside of the headboard, pierce the upholstery with a large “shoe” needle and drag a thick, coarse thread, thread it through the eye of the button and bring it back through the same hole.

Secure the ends of the thread with a stapler on the wrong side of the back.

Hang the upholstered headboard on the wall using rails for wall cabinets.

A do-it-yourself wooden bed, made according to a personal project, will cost less than a purchased one.

Remember, the lack of extra money and the shortage of living space are not an obstacle to the fulfillment of the desire to sleep comfortably.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself wooden double bed.

On modern market You can find absolutely everything in goods and services, but many people prefer to make a piece of furniture themselves, without the help of specialists. A self-made double bed, drawings and diagrams of which are attached, can become a real decoration of the bedroom interior. To make such a bed, you need to familiarize yourself with general recommendations specialists, make a drawing and a plan of sequential actions. The drawing is needed for calculations necessary materials, funds for their purchase and drawing up the sequence of installation work.

Preparatory work

A do-it-yourself double bed has a number of advantages - this is the ability to choose required size, design, shape of the legs, as well as quality finished product the end result, thanks to which, the bedroom turns into a masterpiece.

The main details in its manufacture are:

  • design, which can be classic or with a lifting system;
  • a drawing to assist in the preparation and manufacture of parts;
  • plan of sequential actions.
Layout of a double bed including mattress

Drawings and diagrams

No work on the manufacture of interior items is complete without drawings and diagrams. The production of a double design was no exception. Below you can see several options for drawings and diagrams often used in the manufacture of double models.

Having decided on the type and size of the double bed, you need to make a detailed drawing. The scheme allows you to buy the required amount of building materials of a certain size or order their production in a furniture workshop. The drawing is also used throughout construction process, for the manufacture of individual elements with your own hands and their fastenings.

Double bed with several drawers
Assembly diagram
Bed with two drawers on the sides


Main details


Beds with nightstands


Side view
Frame assembly

Materials and tools for work

The double bed can be regular or with lifting mechanism. Their manufacturing technique is slightly different from each other, since a product with a lifting mechanism has an additional box for storing things and a lifting bed frame.In order to determine the size of the product, you need to take into account the dimensions of the factory mattress that you plan to purchase.To make a standard double bed with your own hands, you will need the following materials.

When choosing a material, many are faced with wood of different quality. Experts recommend choosing high-quality wood only for the supporting structure. For the legs and bottom slats, you can purchase second-rate material. If you don’t have enough money for quality material, you can purchase chipboard or plywood.

If you plan to make a product with a lifting mechanism, then you will need a little more materials. Since, in addition to the main frame, it is also necessary to make a lifting frame for the berth. For its manufacture, you can use metal building material. The drawing should include not only construction material, and also the type of lifting mechanism, because its installation plays a big role.

Choosing a board

Tools you will need:

  • roulette;
  • pencil or marker;
  • brushes;
  • sandpaper;
  • wood putty;
  • varnish, stain;
  • wood glue;
  • self-tapping screws (30, 50, 60 mm);
  • measuring square;
  • drill;
  • jigsaw;
  • clamps;
  • grinding machine;
  • construction stapler;
  • hacksaw.

When cutting parts according to the dimensions of the drawing, you need to mark them as accurately as possible.

Main frame

The process of making a double bed with your own hands begins with the main frame. A product with a lifting mechanism is also made from its base, which consists not only of four boards, but also of the bottom, as in the photo.


Frame assembly

Frame manufacturing steps:

  • in the prepared parts it is necessary to make holes for fastenings using a drill. The diameter must correspond to the 30 mm screws that are used to fasten the boards;

Prepare holes for fastening
  • clean the ends of the boards using sandpaper or grinder;

We clean the ends of the boards with a sander
  • open them with wood glue;
  • V drilled holes insert self-tapping screws and fasten the boards using a screwdriver or screwdriver;
We fasten the boards using self-tapping screws
  • Having finished fastening, you need to remove all excess glue using damp cloth;
Remove excess glue with a damp cloth
  • upon completion, it is necessary to check all the corners of the structure, make sure that they are straight, using a construction square;
  • After the frame has dried, you need to paint it. The color of the stain is chosen solely from the personal preferences of the owner;

Finished frame after painting
  • if the frame is made in the form of a box, it is necessary to make a bottom, which can be solid (made of plywood) or slatted.

Attaching supports for slatted bottom

The supports for laying the slats are attached according to the same principle as the frame.

Technology for fastening supports for slatted bottom:

  • in the support boards it is necessary to drill holes for the thickness of the screws, in increments of 25 cm;
  • to fasten the boards, it is better to place the frame on its side and, having drawn a line at a distance of 5 cm from its bottom, you can proceed to the installation steps;
To attach the boards, I placed the frame on its side
  • Before attaching the support boards, they must be lubricated with wood glue;
  • fastening is carried out along the frame along its edges, using 50 mm self-tapping screws;
  • For stability while the glue dries, the support block must be pressed; for this you can use clamps. An example can be seen in the photo;

The frame with the block was fixed until completely dry.
  • the middle support board is attached parallel to the previous two, at the same height, by drilling holes in its ends;
  • the remaining holes from the fasteners must be sealed with putty and cleaned with sandpaper after it dries.

Legs

Making legs with your own hands is the most simple step throughout the entire construction process.

The whole manufacturing process:

  • the prepared timber with a cross-section of 10x10 cm needs to be cut into 6 bars 10.5 cm long;

Blank for future legs
  • fastening is carried out to the support bars;
  • to strengthen the frame, two additional legs are attached under the central support, at a distance of 50 cm from the edges of the frame;
  • To decorate them, you can give them any shape. You can saw off one of the corners approximately 3 cm from the bottom, at an angle of 45 degrees, as in the photo;
  • Upon completion of the work, all sides must be sanded.

Fastening all created elements:

  • as mentioned above, the legs are attached to the frame support boards. To do this, you need to use 60 mm self-tapping screws. You need to spend at least two on each leg;
This is what the leg mounting looks like from the inside
  • holes are pre-drilled with a drill, a drill whose diameter coincides with the cross-section of the screws.

Legs attached to frame

Before screwing in the screws, you must first drill holes, which will reduce the risk of splitting the boards.

Decorative elements

Decorative elements play a big role in finishing the product; thanks to them, the bedroom will sparkle with new colors. One of the options for finishing elements is wooden slats, 5 by 2.5 cm thick, which should also be included in the drawing.

Manufacturing process:

  • it is necessary to make the required size of slats from the prepared materials;
  • the prepared slats must be sanded and painted with stain, the color of which is chosen based on personal preferences and the design of the room;
  • after drying, they are coated with varnish on water based;
  • After opening the first layer of varnish, you need to sand the slats to prevent the appearance of all kinds of bubbles. Next, apply two more layers of varnish;
  • The painting procedure must also be carried out with the legs.

Fastening:

  • decorative trim is attached with glue;
  • it is necessary to apply glue to the surface of the frame and finishing slats;
  • using clamps, press them for a while, preferably until the glue dries completely;
  • all excess glue must be wiped off with a damp cloth;
  • The slats can be fastened using either nails or self-tapping screws.

Fastening the lifting mechanism requires additional skills, since its installation must be of high quality and safe. There are three types of mechanisms, each of which is installed differently. Therefore, having chosen a certain type, you need to carefully study its installation diagram or seek the help of specialists.

Reiki

For the manufacture of classic beds with your own hands, the slats are laid on the frame support boards. And in products with a lifting mechanism, they are placed on a lifting frame. Or it is possible to lay them on two frames at the same time, since on the frame they are used for the bottom, and on the lifting frame, for laying the mattress.

The slats are made very simply:

  • according to the given dimensions, it is necessary to measure the length of the slats and cut them from purchased boards;
Marking boards for making slats
  • for convenience and practicality, so that there are no discrepancies in the length of the slats, the first plank can be used as a sample, and subsequent planks can be marked on its basis;
  • Having finished the process of making slats, you need to sand each one.


How to make a headboard and what you need for it

A headboard in a double bed is necessary for three main reasons:

  • it is a decorative element;
  • protects wall coverings from rubbing;
  • for comfort.

The headboard can be different sizes, shapes and coatings, it all depends on personal preferences, the interior of the room and financial capabilities. Here are photos of several examples.

Before making it, you also need to make a drawing with your own hands, which will indicate the dimensions and necessary materials. Mainly plywood sheet is used, upholstery fabric and foam rubber to create a soft and airy headboard.

Complete manufacturing technology:

  • The first thing to do is measure the width and height of the headboard. Transfer all dimensions to a sheet of plywood and cut out the parts;

Cut the foam according to the dimensions of the workpiece
  • If rectangular shape you are not satisfied with the headboard, it can be made round or ornate. To do this, prepare a template and a jigsaw in advance;
  • irregularities and notches resulting from the cutting process must be treated with sandpaper;
  • for the manufacture of soft headboard you will need foam rubber, a stapler and upholstery fabric. Attach the foam rubber to the headboard blank using a stapler and cover it with the prepared fabric;

Foam rubber must be stapled and covered with upholstery fabric
  • if you plan to make a regular headboard, then the plywood blank needs to be opened with varnish or paint;
  • the finished headboard can be attached directly to sleeping place or against the wall.

The bedroom should create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, which is achieved with design design and furniture attributes. Nice bed needed not only to decorate the room, but also to ensure a sound, comfortable sleep, which can be achieved with a properly selected bed. You can not only purchase it, but also make it yourself. Having fulfilled all the requirements, the product will serve for a long time, performing all its intended functions.

The beginning was as banal as always: the bed underneath me fell apart again. There is nothing surprising in this event (especially if you take into account my considerable weight, as well as the fact that the bed was practically the same age as me).

I will also not hide that in furniture store, when I saw some kind of bed, which was quite shaky and consisted of compressed sawdust, a toad literally began to choke me. Moreover, these “beds” cost as much as if they were a real marble bed with gilding... It’s not in my rules to pay for something that will then have to be modified, improved and corrected, as well as repaired.

That’s when the thought came to me: why not make such a bed yourself? By the way, I subsequently implemented this idea, however, not everything turned out to be as simple as it seemed to me at first glance. It is worth noting the fact that it took almost two months to build the bed (but, of course, taking into account the factor of human laziness, the need to do basic work and many other circumstances). But let's start in order.

Will be presented here step by step photos and some text that will describe each step.


So, first I purchased boards for this good cause. It took me 14 linear meters a good (but as it turned out later, damp) floorboard, the width of which was 120 mm and the thickness - 30 mm. All this cost 990 rubles. I also bought 2 sheets of 10 mm plywood (its size is 1.5x1.5 meters) - 1230 rubles, wood glue, paint, brushes, various screws, sandpaper, edge tape (it’s still a mystery to me why I needed it?), legs (which I also didn’t use), a set of corners that was only partially needed. 2354 rubles were spent on all this.

As a result, the total cost was 4,574 rubles, but that was not all, as there were also bolts, nuts, stud screws, a can of paint, and a sheet of hardboard. This also cost about 850-1000 rubles; more precise information cannot be given now.

Yes, now it no longer surprises me why furniture prices are so high in our country. But it’s too late to change anything, moreover, for this whole thing I also bought a jigsaw. As it turns out, this is amazing. useful thing in any home. The money spent on it was returned incredibly quickly, and therefore this tool was not included in the list of expenses incurred. I already had a screwdriver and a drill.

But let's return to the work process itself.

My first task was to cut out the plywood. It was then that I realized that I had purchased two whole sheets in vain. A rectangle 195 by 92 could easily be cut out from one sheet of plywood, the size of which was 150 by 150. Then I actually found plywood, measuring 2x1.5 meters, so you can even cut out a whole sheet, but that was later...

Next we had to start working with the boards. This is where the crookedness of my hands first became apparent, because I couldn’t make the cut straight. Well, what can you do, although this fact is not particularly pleasant.

Frame fabrication is complete!

The plywood is attached to the frame with glue and screws.

Using glue, we attach the side members with screws at the ends.

The glue turned out to be quite good. For testing, I glued together two pieces of plywood. In the end, I simply could not break them. The plywood was cracking and delaminating, but there was nothing to the seam.

Here the consequences of my crooked hands are already clearly visible. And the tree showed that it was not dry enough, as it seemed, because now it was dry and slightly warped.

There's nothing you can do - you'll have to cover the joint with a mixture of glue and sawdust.

The boards began to literally “go by helicopter.” But I also planned to make bed legs out of them.

Well, there’s nothing terrible about it, besides, I have leftover plywood.

We make the base for the legs from plywood, and then we make the legs themselves from short pieces of boards. By the way, they need to be made in such a way that they do not bend.

The legs of the bed will be removable and secured with screws. I drilled holes in the boards so that a thick hairpin screw (8 mm) would not tear it. I also drilled holes in the plywood that will be fastened with them, so that everything would be tolerable. Next, I simply drilled holes in the plywood to 9 mm so that everything would fit without problems.

In order not to waste time with a wrench over each stud, I decided to screw two nuts onto each and simply locked them. Next, everything was done using a cordless screwdriver.

Don't wonder why cordless screwdriver the wire. It just leads to the battery (car).

That's it, now you can start final assembly. Glue…

...nuts...

...glue again...

...and, of course, screws!

As I already said, there was not enough paint. Moreover, there was a lot of work to do, but then my mother came to visit, she bought the paint herself and painted everything herself.

According to her, the pink one is really okay. But, as for me, it’s not very good. But nothing can be done; it will still be practically invisible.

And I have already started attaching the heels.

The heels are ready. They also act as adjustable feet.

At first, I planned to level the plywood with glue, and only then sand it - that’s why I bought sandpaper. But then I decided not to do this, bought a sheet of hardboard, cut it to size...

... and then pasted it on. It's hard to get it to stick smoothly. By the way, there was barely enough glue for this task. But at first I scolded myself for buying a large bottle. I thought there would still be half of the glue left.

I decided to take the backs and sides from an old bed. The backs were just the right size, but the sides were too short. This happened because I decided to lengthen the bed a little. But at the same time, I did not take into account that the sides are attached to the bed through planks. This added another 3 centimeters. Well, never mind, I decided to go to the store and buy a panel that matched the color (plus another 420 rubles). It is worth noting, however, the fact that even the narrowest one turned out to be twice as wide as the old one...

...but it turned out much more beautiful this way!

...and I decided to seal the joint edge tape, it was not in vain that it was bought. True, it turned out to be a little darker, but nothing. It is convenient to glue it - glue is already applied to it, and therefore you just need to iron it with a warm iron.

I decided to also add a ribbon to the side.

It didn’t take much time to install the rear backrest; I already have experience with this.

We can summarize: the whole apartment is littered with sawdust, about 6,000 rubles were spent, it turned out a little clumsily, but nothing is visible under the panels (of course, if you don’t look closely). But most importantly, it is impossible to convey the feeling of how good it was when my bed did not even creak after I climbed onto it.