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» Removable pipe box. How and from what to beautifully make a box for pipes in the bathroom. Application of finished polymer products

Removable pipe box. How and from what to beautifully make a box for pipes in the bathroom. Application of finished polymer products

Communications located in the bathrooms look unattractive, so in most cases, when starting an apartment renovation, the owners of the living space also want to build a plasterboard box for the pipes. Someone invites a master for this, but if there is even a minimal understanding of construction tool You can close the pipes yourself.





Selection of material and necessary tools

Building a box is not a complicated process, but there are some nuances in this work that are worth knowing for a positive result. For installation you need to buy materials, and:

  • fasteners – connection elements, “seeds”, dowel-nails;
  • plaster;
  • silicone-based sealant - useful for sealing joints with the floor;
  • inspection hatch;
  • drywall
  • profile – and .

Material for creating plasterboard construction

To work you will need tools, there are not many of them, so preparing it will not be difficult:

  • spatula;
  • screwdriver;
  • perforator;
  • drill 6 mm;
  • metal scissors;
  • screwdriver;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • knife and hacksaw;
  • bath;
  • container for mixing the mixture.

Tools for working with drywall

Once everything is ready, you can assemble the plasterboard box, let's look at the step-by-step instructions.

Step-by-step instructions for making a pipe box

Before you start assembling a drywall box, you need to draw up a project. You should not ignore this stage, as it is one of the important ones, since the quality of the box made on your own depends on it.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a plasterboard box to hide waste pipes will be described using the example of a bathroom and toilet; the process of installing a structure to hide pipes in the kitchen is identical to that described.

There is no need to create an exact drawing; it is enough to simply make a schematic drawing with the dimensions of the future structure transferred to it.


Diagram of a plasterboard box for pipes

Watch the video: how to cover pipes with a plasterboard box.


  • Next, you need to mark on the floor and ceiling the location of the guide profile; for this you need a construction corner. Place the corner with the short edge to the corner at the intersection of the floor and the wall, and draw a straight line on the floor. The angle between the strip on the wall and the strip on the floor should be 90 degrees;

  • The same should be done on the ceiling.

The marking is ready, you can proceed to the next stage.

Mounting and installation of a frame made of profiles

Before the construction metal frame needs to be cut required quantity profile segments equal to the marked lines.

Watch the video: assembling the frame for the future gypsum plasterboard box.

How to install:

  • You need to start by installing guide profiles on the floor and ceiling, and then on the walls. They are installed strictly along the lines and secured with dowel nails. To do this, press the profile firmly to the floor and drill holes in the floor directly through it at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Insert dowels into the holes and screw in self-tapping screws;

  • After this, you can begin installing the rack profiles. It is inserted along guides at the top and bottom. The profile is pressed and secured using dowel nails. The ends of the flexible connection are bent inward or cut off. The main requirement in this situation is that the profile must be level;
  • The next step will be to install the corner connecting profile, it is screwed with small screws to the intersection of the guides at the corner of the future box;


Attaching the rack profile to the guide using self-tapping screws

  • Then the stiffening frame is mounted in the pipe box - the profile at the wall and the profile at the corner are connected in small sections. The segments are located strictly parallel to the floor at a distance of 30 cm from each other, along the entire height of the frame on both sides.

Important! The entire assembly must be controlled by level, even a small deviation, which can lead to poor-quality assembly of the structure. This instruction will help you assemble and install a box that can cover heating pipes.

Firstly, for this structure, reinforcement is made from profiles, according to size.

Secondly, such hatches are quite heavy, so you need to secure it carefully, sparing no screws.

Also at this stage you need to determine where it will be installed ventilation grille, it is necessary to prevent condensation from forming inside the box.

Communications are required in the bathroom. Open sewer and water pipes They don't look aesthetically pleasing. A box made of plastic panels allows you to optimally hide the water supply and sewer risers. It looks great, can be easily dismantled if necessary, and provides access to all elements for Maintenance.

Advantages of using a plastic box

Hiding unsightly details is very useful. This allows you to refine the interior of the room, depriving it of awkward details. If you hide everything that spoils the decoration of the bathroom, then it will be joyful and complete. She will become neater and more presentable. A box made of plastic panels will best solve this problem.

When constructing this finishing element, it is important to take into account many points and ensure that it does not interfere with the ability to take meter readings. Known situations require decisive action without delay, it is necessary to be able to quickly implement renovation work to eliminate the accident. With this in mind, it is worth thinking about multifunctionality created product.

Exist various options execution. Especially often, eye protection is made of plasterboard; and are often used. These options are each good in their own way, but the last solution turns out to be more reasonable and effective. The question of how to cover the pipes in the bathroom with plastic panels is more relevant. This method is more justified and easier to implement.


Its positive qualities are as follows:

  • A bathroom frame made of this material does not require further finishing.
  • Easy to dismantle while preserving all components. This can be useful when using pipelines with fittings and threaded connections.
  • Simple installation of the structure makes it a good decision. It is easy to build it yourself without using unavailable resources.
  • High resistance to deformation and maintenance. The material has high flexibility and strength. The damage will not be fatal. Any panel can be easily replaced with a new one.
  • The compactness of the design is achieved by the insignificant thickness of the material.
  • A functional, convenient product will withstand repeated assembly and disassembly; you can store a variety of items and accessories inside it, since there are all the conditions for this.

Despite all the huge number of advantages, this solution demonstrates minor disadvantages, one of which is low resistance to temperature deformation. A persistent odor cannot be a virtue either. Plastic degrades over time, and the air contains some components of this decomposition that are undesirable.

Preparatory stage of installation


Be sure to check all pipes before installing the box!

Immediately before hiding the pipes in the bathroom, you will need to do some preparatory activities. All pipes are carefully inspected. If problem areas are detected, the defect should be eliminated while it is possible.

Advice! If new communications are carried out before installation, they should be carried out with maximum care with a minimum of complexity of connections. Any element can be at risk of breakdown, which may be accompanied by leaks.

  1. The dimensions and shape of the product must be carefully analyzed. Masking can be done in several ways. In some of them everything is closed completely, in others you can limit yourself to only a part, which allows you to leave more free space and consume material in smaller quantities. When completely closed, it becomes possible to get additional storage space for brushes, detergents and other substances.
  2. After taking accurate measurements, you can create an accurate design drawing. In it, carefully work out all the details regarding the location of inspection hatches and their parameters. This will ensure unobstructed elements and counters.
  3. When subsequently finishing the walls with tiles, the first step is to install a protective structure. Then the tiles will only need to be laid on open surfaces. This allows you to reduce ceramic consumption. According to the drawing, it is worth calculating the material consumption; its supply should be 8% higher than the calculated one.
  4. For the case you will need to use sheet or rack panels. The installation will require metal profiles of rack and guide types. Seam joints are supposed to be covered with skirting boards. In stock you need to have silicone sealant, self-tapping screws, a mounting knife, and inspection hatches.

Features of frame installation

First, guides are placed on the walls adjacent to the corner. This must be done in compliance with the level. These profiles determine the size of the entire structure. For control, you can use a bubble or tube building level.

Important point! Fastening the steel profile will be more reliable if you attach it to the wall with dowels and European screws. For installation on tiles, you will need metal screws installed in the seams between the tiles. In this case, you can only install it on already dry tiles. It is important to twist the screws extremely carefully and carefully. If the self-tapping screw becomes jammed while rotating, the process should be stopped. The screw will not hold when twisted.

It makes sense to make the design more compact, since it is important to save a small bathroom space. For this reason, it is better to install guides closer to the pipes.

After installing the guides on the walls, you can begin to form the corner from the outside. A tight angle is required. The corner post is twisted from two guide-type profiles. In this case, the shelves are directed at right angles to each other. You can screw them together using small self-tapping screws. Next, the resulting product is placed in place. For these purposes, the supporting profile type cd is cut into pieces corresponding to the length and width of the structure.

First, a corner stiffener is attached to one wall. The profile pieces are inserted into a guide mounted on the wall and the corner rib profile. Additional jumpers are needed in the middle; they will allow you to attach plastic panels. A building level must be used in the work; the box should not turn out crooked, it should look perfect.

How to sheathe the resulting frame with plastic panels

When the frame for the plastic box is completely ready, it can be immediately sheathed with plastic panels. You need to start by installing a starting profile. It is secured using self-tapping screws to one of the guides on the wall. You only need to attach it to one guide. If you fix starting profile on two guides on both walls, then installing the last plastic strip will be a real challenge. When securing, great care will be required, since the starting strip must not be damaged.


Then a small strip of plastic is measured and cut from its sheet. It is possible that the strip will be measured in length and width. To cut plastic, it is best to use a regular construction knife; it copes well with this manipulation.

One side of the plastic strip is inserted into the starting profile. On the other side you need to put on a plastic corner profile and secure it to the frame with self-tapping screws. The other side of the plastic box is sheathed in exactly the same way, with one exception. The last strip of plastic must be installed with the starting profile on. It is better not to secure this strip with self-tapping screws. It is much more convenient to install using silicone. She will hold on tight. If dismantling is necessary, the silicone can simply be cut off with a knife.

After installing the plastic, it’s time for the inspection holes. They need to be cut in predetermined places. Hatches are installed in the holes to provide access to meters and taps. Inspection hatches should also not be screwed down. It is much more practical to glue the hatches onto the plastic box using a good sealant. At this point the work can be considered completed.

Video: Pipe box in 30 minutes!

It is impossible to imagine a modern bathroom without communications. But sewer and water pipes will not make the room attractive. Therefore, during the renovation process, apartment and house owners hide these systems under boxes. It is quite possible to carry out such designs independently, without the involvement of professionals. Just to start, you need to select the material. To implement the described task, you can use one of several methods and complete the installation:

  • boxes;
  • furniture;
  • roller blinds;
  • pipes in the wall.

When choosing an option, it is worth considering the possibility of pipe maintenance. If they break, the decor of the room should not be affected. Once the box can be installed, you can mount a collapsible structure or make access doors.

The pipe box in the bathroom can be installed depending on the location of the lines. You can cover just the pipes or the entire wall. The first option involves decorating individual areas, so there is an opportunity to save on materials.

If you sew up the entire plane, the room will look more attractive, but such a design will reduce usable area. You can use the space partially occupied by pipes to store various things there.

Preparation of tools and materials

Like all other rooms in your home, the bathroom should look attractive. The indoor pipe box can be made from different materials- it can be drywall, plastic or wood. However, before starting work, you should make sure that you have some tools, including:

  • roulette;
  • hammer drill;
  • construction knife;
  • plumb line;
  • construction corner;
  • hammer;
  • bubble level.

It will be enough to make boxes standard sheet plasterboard with dimensions 2500x1200 mm. The thickness can range from 9 to 12.5 mm. It is better to purchase moisture-resistant material, because the sewer riser and water pipes are covered with perspiration, so the humidity will be significant.

The frame can be made from square wooden blocks with a side of 40 or 50 mm. An alternative solution is a galvanized profile designed for working with drywall. The latter option is more practical, because the profile does not require special training, and it is much easier to install.

Material selection

Before making a box for pipes in the bathroom, you should select the material. It must be moisture-resistant, have a small thickness and weight, and also be based on environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit into the atmosphere. harmful substances. According to these requirements, you can choose plywood, plastic, MDF or moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Conducting training

Before you install a pipe box in your bathroom, you need to think about where problems are most likely to occur. Problems with the plumbing or sewer system occur at the connections. If you plan to install the box after laying the pipes, then you should make sure that the main has fewer connections.

If it is not planned to replace the pipeline, then before hiding the pipes, it is necessary to inspect them. Without fear of leaks, you can close welded or soldered connections. As for fittings, they should be easily accessible. Their inspection should be carried out periodically. This indicates that threaded connections cannot be bricked up. Access must also be guaranteed to valves, filters and meters.

Making a box: determining dimensions

The pipe box in the bathroom should be made only after its future dimensions can be determined. The distance from the walls of the box to the pipes should not be less than 3 cm. Once the markings on the floor have been completed, using a plumb line, the contours of the future box can be transferred to the ceiling and walls.

Frame installation

Before backfilling the communication system, the frame should be installed. It is better to make it from a galvanized profile, because the air in the room will be constantly humid, so wood is not suitable. If last option If it is still preferable for you, you should choose bars made from rocks that are resistant to rotting. Before use, the elements are treated with an antiseptic.

The components of the frame are fastened together with self-tapping screws or cutters. To fix the profile to the wall, you can stock up on European screws or dowels. The box covering the bathroom pipes must initially be mounted on the walls. At the next stage, the racks that will form the front edge are mounted. Next, guides are installed on the floor and ceiling.

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, jumpers should be made between them. They are required for a frame with a width of more than 0.25 m. Between the jumpers you need to leave a distance of not more than a meter. How to make a pipe box in the bathroom so that it lasts for many years? You must treat the cut area with mastic if you use wooden elements. This will not only protect the material from damage, but also prevent its deformation.

Frame covering

When preparing parts for the box, it is necessary to form entire elements. First you need to cut the side walls. They are cut so that the edges do not extend beyond the frame profile. Then the front part of the box is cut out, which should cover the sides. After cutting, the material is installed on the posts. To do this, use 3.5 cm screws. The step between them should be 2.5 cm. This will provide the frame with strength, so there is no need to fix the material to the jumpers.

To make doors, you can use elements that will be fixed with magnets. Sometimes the box for pipes in the bathroom is made completely collapsible. To do this, sheets of material are fastened with self-tapping screws at the very edge. Final finishing does not involve decorating them; this is necessary if final stage ceramic tiles are used. In order to make the box complete, you can use a plinth or If it is necessary to dismantle the box, the plinth is removed, the screws are unscrewed, and the finishing material is removed.

A plasterboard pipe box in a bathroom is the most common solution for decorating communications. To cover the frame, you should prepare plasterboard, the thickness of which will be 9.5 mm. The joints should be puttied, and then the surface is painted or covered with another material as desired.

Making a plastic box

The first thing you need to do before going into the bathroom is to cover the pipes with a frame. This was discussed above. However, if you want to use polystyrene panels as the lining of the box, then the lining will be done slightly differently. The advantage of this solution is the ability to adjust the structure in height.

The panels have legs, which allows you to level out uneven floors. With the help of these legs you can cover irregularities up to 10 cm. Installation of the panels will look like this. An end support is mounted on the wall. The top and side edges need to be coated with glue and installed in place. Wrench will allow you to tighten the legs of the panels. A plastic pipe box in the bathroom is not only easy to install, but is also durable and reliable.

Recommendations from a specialist for covering the frame of the box with PVC panels

After installing the starting profile, in order to avoid deformation, it is necessary to fix it with fleas on the guide profile. You need to measure the required size on the plastic panel, then cut it with a sharp knife. In the start profile, the first panel is fixed, while the other is attached to corner profile.

For connection it is necessary to use bugs or fleas. The second side of the box is assembled according to the same principle. On last panel you need to fix the starting profile. By using silicone, you will ensure ease of dismantling when emergencies arise. In those places where it is necessary to ensure unobstructed access to pipeline elements, it is necessary to cut inspection holes. Special hatches are installed using silicone sealant.

Conclusion

Before making a box, you need to think about what material the frame will be made from. If you plan to use a profile, you should purchase UD and CD guides. If you prefer wood, then to connect elements from it it is better to purchase hardened self-tapping screws, the length of which will be twice the size of the timber used.

In each of these cases, to secure plasterboard sheets It’s better to stock up on hardened self-tapping screws, the dimensions of which are 35-45 mm. It is important to choose fasteners that have a piercing tip. It will be easier to work with, and it will not damage the material.

Wanting to make their bathroom more neat and convenient, many people decide to hide the plumbing and sewer pipes. The best way to do this without transferring communications and with a minimum of dust - build a box for pipes in the bathroom. You can assemble a plumbing box with your own hands; there are several options available for this.

The most common option for hiding pipes is to assemble a box from moisture-resistant plasterboard. This is due to the fact that ceramic tiles, which are most often used to decorate bathrooms, can then be glued onto the drywall. Let's consider the main stages of constructing a gypsum plasterboard box.

Stage 1: marking

Before starting to assemble the frame, markings are made at the installation site of the box. The initial mark is placed at a distance of 30–50 mm from the most protruding element of communications.


The frame stand is located at a distance of at least 3 cm from pipes and other communication units.

Next, using a level, a vertical line is drawn along the surface of the wall, indicating the line of fastening of the frame. A similar mark is placed on the other wall, as well as in areas where horizontal pipes are closed.

Note! It is advisable to select the size of the box for tiling in such a way that whole tiles are used to cover all protruding parts. In addition to saving tiles, this allows you to create a neat and complete cladding.

Stage 2: frame construction

Assembly of the frame begins with the installation of a guide profile, which is attached to the walls with dowels along the marking lines. The step between the attachment points is 20–30 cm. The guide profile is also attached to the ceiling and floor to form the angle of the frame and install the front pillar. To ensure that the corners of the frame below and above are located in the same plane, first the guide profile is attached at right angles to the ceiling. Then a plumb line is tied to it and a point is marked on the floor where the lower corner of the frame should be located.

A rack profile is screwed to the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling with self-tapping screws, which is fixed with 3-4 horizontal jumpers for additional mounting rigidity.

Note! Reinforcing jumpers are mounted taking into account the future location of inspection hatches that provide access to valves and meters.

After assembling the vertical part of the frame, if there are horizontal pipes for them, the frame is assembled according to a similar scheme:

  • A guide profile is attached to the wall and floor, which sets the dimensions of the future box.
  • The front frame element is attached to the guides using jumpers cut from the rack profile.

All jumpers are also installed taking into account the location of the sewer outlet for connecting the toilet, inspection hatches and shut-off valves.

Stage 3: framing the frame

The finished frame is sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard, cut into pieces of the required size. GKLV is cut with a sharp knife: first, the cardboard is cut along the line on one side (with a slight penetration into the gypsum core), then the sheet is broken along the cut line and the cardboard is cut on the second side. The sheathing is fastened to the frame using black self-tapping screws in increments of 15–20 cm. The place where the inspection hatch will be installed is not covered with plasterboard or a hole is then cut out.

Note! It is advisable that at this stage the inspection hatch has already been selected by type and size and purchased so that you can immediately try it on for a tight fit.

Types of hatches used for plasterboard boxes:


Stage 4: finishing

Before finishing the box, it is necessary to prepare it, this is done in the following sequence:

  1. All seams between the drywall are opened with a knife, then, along with the corners and other edges, they are sanded.
  2. The seams are filled with putty, and sickle tape is glued on top.
  3. The corners are also treated with a putty mixture and glued with sickle tape.
  4. After the putty has dried, the box is treated with a primer in two passes, with a break for each layer to dry.

The plasterboard box is most often lined ceramic tiles: A continuous layer of tile adhesive is applied to the back of the tile, which is smoothed with a notched trowel. The tile is applied to the drywall and pressed, then the next one is glued. Having completed the installation, the seams are rubbed using conventional technology, and the corners are closed. decorative elements color suitable for finishing.

It is written in detail about laying tiles on drywall.

Plastic box

Another frequently used material for hiding communications is PVC panels. A plastic box for pipes in the bathroom is most often constructed if the walls and/or ceiling are covered or planned to be covered with plastic. Let's look at how to properly make a plastic box with your own hands when hiding a sewer riser in a Khrushchev building.

Frame assembly

The frame, as for a gypsum plasterboard box, is assembled from guides and rack profiles according to a similar scheme:

  • The guides are attached to the wall using dowels.
  • The outer corner is formed using a profile secured with jumpers. Fastening of all elements of the metal frame is carried out with so-called bugs or fleas - metal screws 13 or 16 mm long.

Advice! If there is free space behind the pipes, you can use any corners to secure a wooden shelf, and then install an additional hatch in the casing. This simple way will create a convenient storage space. household chemicals or other items.


Frame covering

Conventional plastic panels are used to cover the frame. Depending on the size of the frame, you can choose a strip width of 10 or 25 cm. The frame is sewn in the following order:


If pipes pass through the box that are not planned to be closed (for example, heating pipes or a heated towel rail), then to carefully handle them proceed as follows:

  • The starting profile is attached to the frame close to the wall.
  • Cutouts are made in the plastic panel at one edge for approximately half the diameter of the pipe.
  • The panel is cut to width and inserted into the space behind the pipe.
  • A cutout is also made in the next panel for the remaining diameter, and the panels are connected to each other.

This method allows you to make a neat outline of the pipe, and the remaining gap is subsequently filled with sealant.

Note! During the covering, marks are made on the plastic panels where the hole for the hatch will be located and its size.

Final stage

When the box is completely sheathed, according to the marks made in advance, holes for hatches are cut using a jigsaw with fine teeth.

For installation on plastic boxes, plastic folding or rotating hatches are used, which are selected according to size. The hatch is secured using silicone sealant, which is applied along the edges of the product. The hatch is then pressed against plastic sheathing, and the protruding sealant is removed.

If there is no handle in the opening hatch cover, opening it is not very convenient. For convenience, you can use a regular self-tapping screw to screw on a plastic furniture handle that matches the color.


To make it more convenient to open the hatch, a handle is screwed onto the door.

The outer corner is covered with a plastic plinth, which is fixed with silicone sealant.

Advice! It is recommended to fix the outer corner while the sealant sets masking tape so that he doesn't leave.

The final touch is to fill the gaps between the pipe and the plastic lining with white sealant.

Collapsible box options

In conclusion, we will look at four ways to make a collapsible box in the bathroom, so that in case of emergencies or replacement of risers, you can provide access to them and do not have to break the entire structure.

Method 1

The plasterboard box is assembled independently frame structure, which is not attached to the wall. The box itself is glued to the already laid tile with a one-component polyurethane glue. To remove the box in the pipes that come out of it, quick-release connections of the “American” type are provided. If full access to the riser is necessary, the glue is carefully cut with a knife or other sharp object, and the box is carefully set aside.

Method 2

Another option for a removable box is that the frame is attached to the walls, as usual. Then plasterboard blanks are cut out along the frame to cover it, but are not screwed to the guides. The sheathing is fixed to the frame after gluing the tiles to the drywall: to do this, a hole is made in it and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. If access to the pipes is necessary, the screws are unscrewed, and all cladding (plasterboard + tiles) is carefully removed.

Method 3

To make it easier to disassemble and dismantle the plasterboard box, some craftsmen suggest setting the tiles on transparent silicone instead of cement tile adhesive. This method of fixation works fine if the base is drywall. When a thin layer of silicone is applied to the tile, it does not float on the base, and if a thick layer of sealant is needed, it is necessary to use plastic crosses to prevent the tile from sliding. If necessary, disassembling such a box is much easier than when the tiles are glued with cement glue. The layer of sealant is cut off from the edge of the inspection hatch hacksaw blade. Moreover, due to the fact that transparent silicone is used, it is visible where the screws securing the drywall are located and the entire structure can be disassembled.

Method 4

The simplest and most cost-effective option for a collapsible structure is to assemble a box from PVC panels without installing a rigid frame. The essence of the method is as follows:

  • The guide profiles are glued to the tile cladding using liquid nails.
  • The starting profile is attached to the guides in the same way.
  • Plastic panels are inserted into the guides, and the front corner is connected using the outer corner to a wide shelf.

This design has no rigidity, but if access to the riser is necessary, it can be disassembled in just one minute.

Communications passing through the bathroom most often present an unattractive sight. The simplest solution in this case may be to invite a repairman. However, if you have the skills to work with tools and have an idea of ​​how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom, then you can do it yourself.

Box made of moisture-resistant plasterboard

There is only one solution for improving communications - covering it with a decorative box. Occasionally, when the pipe distribution is dispersed over the surface of the wall, it is possible to use a false wall. In most apartments, the layouts are not particularly spacious. When the risers are located in the corners or in the case of compact localization of the wiring the best solution there will be a use of a bathroom box. This way you can get the most compact arrangement, creating the illusion of a more spacious room.

Sewer and water pipes without a duct look unsightly

There are two more questions that need to be resolved before starting work - what can the bathtub box be made from and what size should it be. The main requirement for materials is resistance to high humidity:

  • Moisture-resistant drywall;
  • PVC wall panels;
  • Plastic channel box.

Pipes hidden in a plasterboard box

Pipes are hidden under the frame for PVC panels

Pipes in a plastic channel box

As for the dimensions of the bathtub box, they should be determined by the principle of reasonable expediency. The pipes must be completely covered with decorative walls with a small margin. The size of the internal empty space should provide, if repairs are necessary, the possibility of access through a removable hatch to key components (audits, gasket installation locations, threaded pipeline connections).

Pipe box with inspection door

Disadvantages of drywall

A do-it-yourself bathroom box is most often made from moisture-resistant plasterboard. This is due to the low cost, availability and ease of processing of the material. For finishing assembled structure Moisture-resistant paints or tiles can be used.

When purchasing material, you should pay attention to the color of the sheet - moisture resistant drywall It has green color outer paper layer.

The main disadvantage that should be taken into account is the relatively small mechanical strength. When making a box for a bathroom, a sheet of drywall is quite easy to accidentally break. In addition, the resistance of the material to prolonged exposure to moisture is quite limited. Protective compounds Only the outer paper layer is impregnated. When cutting large sheet, the resulting edges will be unprotected.

Appearance of moisture-resistant drywall

The most critical is the formation of puddles on the floor near the wall of the box under the bathtub. In this case, quite a long time may pass from the moment water appears to detection. Through micro-slits at the junction of the box wall and the floor, moisture can seep inside. When installing the box in the bathroom, you can protect the bottom edge of the drywall sheet from getting wet using a strip of silicone sealant.

What tools and materials will be needed for the job?

Making a decorative box for a bathtub is not the most difficult, but still quite labor-intensive process. In addition to the drywall itself, you will need a number of auxiliary materials:

  • Galvanized metal profiles - the frame is assembled from them;
  • Fasteners - self-tapping screws and dowel-nails for connecting elements supporting structure, attaching it to the surface of the floor and walls, fixing sheets of drywall;
  • Silicone sealant - for treating joints with the floor;
  • Serpyanka and putty - they are necessary for masking screw heads and sealing sheet joints (used when preparing the surface of a bathroom frame for painting);
  • Inspection hatch – for performing maintenance.

Assembling a frame from a metal profile

The set of tools that will be needed to complete the work is not that large. It is quite possible to get by with the necessary minimum, consisting of a screwdriver with a set of bits, a hammer drill, construction knife and metal scissors.

Necessary tools for making a box

Execution of the frame

Work begins with marking the walls, floor, and, if necessary, the ceiling. The size and location of the lines will indicate the position of the walls of the box. To prevent frame distortions, the markings must be checked with a level. Situations should be avoided where the walls of the plasterboard box in the bathroom will interfere with the opening of the furniture door or the entrance door.

Frame components are mounted level

If all the rules are followed and the markings are done correctly, you can begin assembling the frame of the box for the bathtub. Metal profiles are cut to the required size using metal scissors. First, the sections are attached to the floor and walls - they create reference points for attaching the frame. Then, the vertical posts of the supporting frame of the box under the bathtub are installed. The assembly is completed by installing the top guide, which combines all the elements into a single rigid structure. To service metering devices and sewer inspection, auxiliary guides are installed. In the future, they will serve as the basis on which the inspection hatch will be attached.

The frame is assembled from metal guides

The profiles are connected to each other using self-tapping screws (“seeds”). There is a notch on the surface of the metal that prevents the tip of the screw from slipping. By resting against these recesses, you can easily install the fasteners.

Assembling the frame

The frame is assembled around pipes laid on the floor

It is necessary to provide places for passing pipes in the frame

Frame covering

Standard sheets of drywall are cut to the required, pre-calculated size. It's a fairly simple process:

  • The sheet is placed on flat surface(as a last resort, cutting in a vertical or slightly inclined position is allowed);
  • Measures using a tape measure required size and use a knife to make small marks on the surface;
  • A metal ruler or a flat, long wooden strip is applied to the resulting marks;
  • A construction knife is used to make a cut along the guide;
  • The drywall breaks off along the resulting line;
  • The resulting edge is trimmed with a knife if necessary.

The frame is covered with plasterboard

Cut sheets of drywall are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. The sheet is pressed tightly, the screw is screwed first into the sheet and then into the metal profile. As a result, the entire area of ​​the frame (except for the space provided for the hatch) must be sewn up. To facilitate puttying, the fastener heads must be recessed when screwing. To avoid cracking at the edges, fastening must be done with a slight indentation (2-3 cm).

We check all elements for evenness

We apply mineral wool for sound insulation

Ready frame

Preparation for finishing

In order to protect the material of the bathroom box from exposure to water, all joints and junctions are treated with sealant. It is best to use silicone with fungicide additives that prevent the development of mold. The junctions should be sealed especially carefully for the box under the bathtub, where access will be difficult.

Surface preparation before tiling is limited to treatment with a primer solution. The entire area of ​​the box under the bathtub and along the walls in an open space is covered with the working composition using a brush or roller. In internal and external corners the perforated corners are fixed, and then the tiles are glued using specialized compounds. These can be either dry mixtures that need to be diluted with water, or ready-to-use mastics. Sometimes to save money Supplies the box under the bathtub is covered with paint instead of tiles. Preparation for this type of work involves gluing the joints of individual sheets with sickle tape. A leveling layer of putty is applied over the reinforcing tape and recessed fastener heads.

In conclusion finishing an inspection hatch is installed. Its installation is carried out using standard mounting lugs. It is necessary that the hatch dimensions coincide with the hole left for it, and its size is sufficient for servicing.

Tiled plasterboard box with hatch

Application of finished polymer products

The pipe box in the bathroom can be assembled using plastic finishing materials wall panels and channels. In the first case, the sequence of work is almost identical to that already discussed - the frame is assembled and its sheathing is performed. Installation of plastic panels is carried out using construction adhesives “liquid nails”. To make the entire structure look neat, the joints and corners are masked with decorative strips. The inspection hatch is installed on its seat in the bathroom box, secured with fastening tabs to the surface of the panel profiles.

A good solution is to use standard plastic channels to make a bathroom box in which you can hide the pipework. For this purpose, both specialized products and air duct elements are used. Dignity this method is that there is no need to perform additional operations (frame assembly, material cutting, finishing). It is enough to choose a plastic box for the bathroom that is suitable in color for pipes of the required dimensions and fix them on the wall using a hammer drill.

Difficulties arise when it is necessary to cover the sewer riser. Find shaped parts from which you can make a tub box for pipes the right size it can be quite difficult. Another point to consider is the installation of metering devices. It will have to be done either open or using a plastic box.

Regardless of what material is chosen for the manufacture of the box, all operations (cutting, installation, finishing) must be performed carefully. Otherwise, there is no point in taking on, there is no need to complete the work - the best option will invite a hired master.

The pipes are hidden in a box made of PVC panels

Pipes in the bathroom always interfere with the perception of its interior. In some cases, there is no other option but to make a pipe box in the bathroom to hide unsightly details of the furnishings. But this method of solving the problem has its own characteristics that it is advisable to keep in mind.

How to choose the right materials?

Making a box in the bathroom with your own hands is not technically difficult, but you should take into account the features of this room. High humidity and possible splashes on the walls dictate the owner to give preference to moisture-resistant materials. These include:

  • moisture-resistant drywall;

    Moisture-resistant drywall

  • plastic panels;

    Plastic panels

  • special grades of plywood.

    Moisture-resistant plywood

Having a low ability to absorb moisture, sheet materials are easy to cut and process. They can be decorated to match the overall design of the bathroom by painting, tiling or plastering if necessary.

It is necessary to fasten the sheet material to the frame, so in addition to gypsum board or other sheets, you also need to select the material for the guides. It is most convenient to use ready-made profiles for installing drywall. These are metal structures, durable and light at the same time. They are easy to cut and attach to each other and walls. Installation of sheet material is carried out using self-tapping screws.

An alternative to profiles can be wooden block. The 3-5 cm thick planks do not weigh down the structure and are easily connected with self-tapping screws. Their only drawback may be their susceptibility to rotting when exposed to moist bathroom air.

How to prepare a workplace?

Before you make a box in the bathroom with your own hands, you need to determine whether it will directly cover the communications or cover the entire adjacent wall. In each individual case, any option may seem preferable. Each of them has its own characteristics:

  1. If you hide the entire wall on which the ugly pipe is located under the panels of the box, then anyone design solution nothing will interfere. A neat, flat false wall can be finished in any way you like. But this method also has a drawback: the panels are located at a distance of about 20 cm from the bathroom wall. It is by this amount that the length or width of the room will decrease. In small apartments this can be significant.

    Frame for false wall

  2. By covering with a box only that part of the wall where communications pass, you can save some space in the bathroom. But the box will remain a prominent and disturbing interior detail.

To radically solve the problem, some place an entire storage system for necessary things in the space behind the panels. This bathroom box for pipes turns into a kind of shelving unit with doors.

How to make a box from plasterboard, panels, plywood or other material is a personal matter for each owner. In order to imagine the possibilities of each method, you need to first draw a sketch and draw from it rough plan bathroom furnishings. Based on the drawings, the amount of necessary materials is also calculated, taking into account the height of the room, the width of the box and the presence of additional parts in it.

After this, you can proceed to purchasing and preparing everything you need; you will need the following tools and materials:

  • profiles (bar);
  • self-tapping screws for connecting and fastening sheets or panels;
  • dowels for attaching the profile to a concrete wall;
  • hammer drill with attachments for drilling concrete and metal, with a screwdriver;
  • a hacksaw for wood or metal, depending on the frame material;
  • plumb line, level, tape measure.

Before installing the pipe box in the bathroom, you need to find out the state of the communications. In a closed space, any minor leak may go unnoticed for some time until an emergency occurs. An undetected defect may result in the need for bathroom repairs in the future, so it is best to identify the problem early and fix it.

Marking the frame for the box

Most often, the sewerage and water supply risers are located side by side and run vertically in one of the corners. Therefore, you need to start marking the space for the box in the bathroom with your own hands from the ceiling. This will make it possible to subsequently lower the exact vertical to the floor and make the planes perfectly flat.

If you plan to cover the entire wall with panels, then near the pipes in the bathroom with your own hands you need to measure the depth of the space between the wall and the location of the profile for the gypsum board or bar. It is necessary to take into account that the guide must be at least 5 cm away from the communications. Remember the found distance in order to make a mark in the opposite corner. Connect the points with a straight line along the ceiling.

At two randomly selected points on this line, lower the plumb line to the floor. Place marks corresponding to the points selected on the ceiling. Draw a straight line through them on the floor.

It is advisable to perform the same algorithm of actions if the pipes run horizontally. Accurate markings will help make the frame for the bathroom box very neatly and without distortions. In this case, a line on the ceiling will not be needed, so it is better not to draw it, but to place marks near opposite walls. When lowering the plumb line, you will need to mark the points of the front edge of the box on the floor, and the junction of its edges with the walls - on them themselves. The height of the box is determined depending on the height of the pipes above the floor, taking into account a gap of 5-7 cm.

Horizontal box

In order to mark the frame of a vertical corner box made of plasterboard in the bathroom, you will have to act a little differently:

  • set aside the distance along the ceiling from one of the adjacent walls parallel to the adjacent one, taking into account gaps of 5-7 cm from the pipes to the guides;
  • do the same from the adjacent wall, at the intersection of the lines, put a point from which a plumb line will be lowered;
  • Using this tool, mark the projections of 3 points (junctions to walls and intersections of lines) on the floor.

Drawing an angle using the marked marks is quite simple. You need to connect the junction point with the intersection point and repeat this from the adjacent wall. The resulting rectangle will be identical to the one drawn on the ceiling.

Frame installation

The marked lines indicate the location of the inner edge of the profile. Cut the material according to the measured lengths of the sides of the parallelepiped, which will serve as a box for pipes in a plasterboard bathroom. Attach with dowels in advance drilled holes profiles on the ceiling, floor and walls. The frame slats need to be aligned according to the markings and additionally checked for their verticality and horizontality, eliminating defects.

Profile fastening

The location of rigidly fixed parts will be different:

  1. For a completely wired wall, install horizontal guides on the ceiling and floor. Then 2 verticals are attached between them on opposite walls. If it is necessary to build shelves inside this space, you will need to additionally install profiles on the wall being closed.
  2. If you are making a horizontal box in the bathroom, you need to strengthen the planks with your own hands on the floor, on the wall above the pipe and on the walls adjacent to it (vertically and horizontally).
  3. The vertical frame for the box in the bathroom is assembled with your own hands from racks on adjacent walls and squares on the ceiling and floor.

After the parts adjacent to the walls and ceilings are secured, you can install connecting elements that form an angle or plane. In this case, for a vertical box, the same front post is installed, for a horizontal box, it is secured in the appropriate position. On a completely lined wall without internal space equipment, you will need to install several verticals with a step that will allow you to attach the panels used (gypsum plasterboard, plastic or plywood) along the edges and in the center.

To ensure structural rigidity, cross members are installed connecting long parallel profiles. Their location depends on the orientation of the box itself. In any case, the orientation of the crossbars should be perpendicular to the main guides.

Box lining

Depending on the location of the pipe box in the bathroom, the installation of the casing will differ in each case. This is dictated by the nuances of joining gypsum board or plywood panels. The assembly of plastic parts is carried out using its own special technology.

To install sheet materials on a frame made by yourself, you should cut them according to the measurements taken from it - this is the length and width of each flat part. To make a plasterboard box in the bathroom, it is advisable to use whole sheets so that there are as few joints as possible.

If the pipes have a fitting, tap, or other place where a possible leak may occur, then a convenient hole should be provided in the wall of the plasterboard box. It will give access to a responsible place. In order to close it, a small secret door can be made. It is advisable to install additional crossbars along the edges of the hole.

Hole in the box

GKL or plywood are attached to a completely sewn-up wall in the same way as during normal leveling: fasteners are screwed into the corners of the sheet, along the edges in increments of about 20 cm and in the center. In this case, the joint of adjacent sheets necessarily falls on the profile strip. The heads of the screws need to be recessed into the material so that they are not noticeable after finishing.

When covering a vertical frame that covers only the pipes, first install the side parts that make up the box in the bathroom made of plasterboard or plywood. Measuring and cutting must be done so that the outer edges perfectly match the profile angle. If necessary, they can be cut with a sharp knife flush with the corresponding plane.

The front panel must be cut so that it covers the edges of the side sheets. You can attach the gypsum board to the frame with special short self-tapping screws, using a screwdriver attachment for this purpose.

If the pipe is installed horizontally in the bathroom, you must first screw the vertical front panel onto the frame. After this, install the horizontal one so that it overlaps the edge of the previous one. This measure will make the plasterboard box for pipes less vulnerable to splashes when taking a shower and other hygiene procedures. You can tile gypsum board or plywood. The tile will reliably protect the material.

Plastic panels as cladding

Making a plastic box for pipes in the bathroom is much easier. Lightweight, moisture-resistant material will not require additional protection.

Plastic box

To cover the pipes in the bathroom, a box of panels can be made like this:

  • install the starting profile on the guides, fastening with self-tapping screws;
  • measure and cut the panel, insert into the profile, secure with screws;
  • glue or screw the adjacent element to the corner profile and connect it to the installed PVC panel;
  • attach the profile to the frame and assemble the other side.

You can purchase a hatch for PVC panels from construction companies. It will be required if it is necessary to make an inspection hole in the panel.

Currently, trade organizations also offer EPS panels that do not require the installation of a frame. They are fastened using an end strip installed on the ceiling and threaded legs that lift and fix the panel.

Video instruction

You cannot do without communication systems in the bathroom. However, water and sewer pipes are unlikely to give your premises aesthetic appearance. Therefore, most residents, during the renovation process, try to hide all communications. There are several ways to implement your plan: hide the pipes using furniture, boxes, roller shutters, or wall them up in the wall. When choosing a camouflage option, it is worth considering the possibility of maintaining communications. So that in case of a breakdown you don’t have to destroy the decor of the room. By installing a pipe box in the bathroom, you can make a collapsible structure or build small doors for access to communications.

Depending on the location of the pipes, the box can be installed in two ways: covering only the pipes or the entire wall on which they are located. In the first option, by covering only those areas where there are pipes, you save on material. Sewing up the entire plane on which the lines are located looks more aesthetically pleasing, but reduces the usable area of ​​the bathroom. In order to somehow use the space in the box not occupied by pipes, small storage facilities are built there for various things.

What is the best way to make a box?

Before closing unsightly communications, you need to choose the right material for the box, behind which the pipes in the bathroom will be hidden. It must meet several requirements:

  • have sufficient resistance to moisture;
  • have low weight and thickness;
  • made from environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit harmful substances.

According to these criteria, from the commercially available materials for making a box in the bathroom, you can use: MDF, moisture-resistant plywood, moisture-resistant plasterboard or plastic.

Preparatory stage

Most often, pipeline problems occur at the joints. Therefore, the fewer there are, the better. If the box is installed after laying new pipes, care must be taken to ensure that the main has as few connections as possible. If replacing the pipeline is not part of your plans, before hiding the pipes in the bathroom, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of them. Inspect all lines for defects and, if any, repair them.

It is believed that soldered and welded joints can be closed without fear of leaks. But fittings with threaded connections must have easy access. It is necessary to periodically inspect them. Therefore, threaded connections cannot be bricked up. It is also necessary to ensure free access to valves, sewer inspections, meters, and filters.

Making a box step by step

Installation of a box in a bathroom consists of several stages. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Measurements and sizing of structures

Before sealing the pipes, you need to take the necessary measurements and clarify the location of the box. In places of unreliable connections, to meters and valves, it is necessary to provide a removable part or door. It wouldn't hurt to have a scale plan of the room on which all the structural details will be marked. When measuring, do not forget about the thickness finishing material.

Having determined the outline of the future structure on the floor, use a plumb line to transfer it to the ceiling, and then make markings on the walls.

Installation of the frame for subsequent cladding

Before sewing communications into the box, it is necessary to install a frame around the pipes. It is best to make it from a galvanized profile. Since the air in the bathroom is constantly humid, the use of wooden blocks is undesirable. If you do decide to use them, choose bars made from rot-resistant rocks. Treat everything before use wooden parts antiseptic.

The frame elements are connected to each other using self-tapping screws or using a cutter. To secure the profile to the wall, dowels and European screws are used.

It is necessary to mount profiles to the wall, taking into account that the finishing material does not subsequently adhere closely to the pipes

The first step is to mount the profile on the walls. Then the racks forming the front edge are installed.

Depending on the design of the future box, there may be several or only one front pillars. They are attached using their own curved edge or hangers

Then the guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor.

It is convenient to fasten vertical and horizontal profiles together using a cutter

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to make jumpers between them. They will also be needed for a frame whose width is more than 0.25 m. The distance between the jumpers is no more than a meter.

For structural strength, jumpers are attached to racks with a height of more than 1.5 m

Using wooden frame treat the cut areas with construction mastic. This will protect the box from damage and prevent its deformation during temperature and humidity fluctuations.

Sheathing the box frame with sheet material

When cutting out parts for the box, try to make solid elements and not from pieces. First, cut the side parts. They are cut in such a way that the edges do not protrude beyond the frame profiles, but are flush with them. After this, cut out the front part of the box. It should cover the side elements.

After cutting the material, it is mounted to the racks. This is done with self-tapping screws (3.5-4.5 cm). The distance between them should be no more than 2.5 cm. Such a box will have sufficient strength, so it is not necessary to attach the material to the jumpers. To monitor weak points in the pipeline, inspection holes with doors are left.

It is necessary to leave a hole in the box for free access to valves, meters and filters. It can be buried with a door purchased from a hardware store.

You can build them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. For handmade For access points to the pipes, a door is made from the material that is used for the box itself. To prevent it from opening, furniture magnets are attached to them.

The door for the control hole can be finished with the same material as the entire box. This way it will be less noticeable

You can make a completely collapsible box. To do this, sheets of finishing material are attached to the very edge with self-tapping screws. Producing final finishing, they are not covered with tiles.

Finally, plastic corners or plinths are secured. When it is necessary to dismantle the box, remove the baseboard, unscrew the screws and remove the finishing material.

Self-tapping screws, closed plastic corner, can be easily unscrewed to dismantle the box in emergency cases. After this, the box remains intact and can be mounted in place

Final decorative finishing

The final stage of box installation is its finishing. It depends on the material from which the structure is made. Plywood, drywall and MDF can be faced with ceramic tiles or painted. Plastic panels do not require further finishing. They look quite attractive on their own. Unlike drywall, plastic does not reduce the area of ​​the room.

To decorate the bathtub, a frame is built from a profile

In the same way, the pipes under the bathroom itself are closed. First, the frame is mounted, and then it is sheathed, leaving control doors.

Moisture-resistant plasterboard is mounted on top of the profile frame and tiles are placed on it. Be sure to leave a door for pipe maintenance

Now knowing how to install a box, you can decorate any pipes in the bathroom and make the room more attractive from an aesthetic point of view. Hiding communications in the bathroom improves the design of the room. In addition, after covering the pipes with a box, the noise level emanating from them is reduced.

Video example of these finishing works

Pipes left in sight are not the best addition to a bathroom interior. In order for the room to have a neat and complete look, communications need to be hidden. Moreover, it is advisable to do this in such a way as to have access to pipe connections, valves, meters and filters. The optimal solution to this problem would be to make a box. Let's look at how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom from plastic panels.

Advantages of a plastic box

The structure for masking pipes can be made of plastic or plasterboard. Each of these options is good in its own way, but in terms of practicality, the plastic box is the leader. It has many undeniable advantages:

  • Possibility of quick disassembly without damaging the material. This property of plastic construction is especially important for pipes joined using fittings and threaded connections, which are not insured against leaks. After repairing a breakdown or scheduled maintenance of pipes, the box is easily reassembled.
  • No need for further finishing. Plastic panels themselves are already a finishing decorative material, unlike drywall, which requires final processing.
  • Resistance to deformation and ease of repair. The plastic used to make the panels is strong and flexible, so it is less likely to be damaged than tiles, which can be accidentally broken. Even if one panel is damaged, it can be easily replaced with a new one without damaging the entire structure.
  • Moisture resistance. PVC is not afraid of water, does not rot, nothing will happen to the box, even if it is installed close to the bathtub or gets wet due to condensation forming on the pipes.
  • Easy to install. Installation of the box will take only a few hours and will not require the use of expensive or specific tools.
  • Affordable price. Plastic panels for bathrooms are one of the most inexpensive finishing materials.
  • Spacious and compact. Due to the small thickness of the panels plastic construction it is very roomy and will not take up much extra space in the bathroom, which is especially important for a small room.

The plastic box is very practical: it can be disassembled and assembled as many times as necessary.

Preparatory work

Before you begin assembling the box, you need to carry out several preliminary activities.

  • Inspect all pipes that will be hidden. Eliminate defects while communications are visible. If a new pipeline is being installed at the same time, try to keep the number of connections to a minimum.
  • Decide what appearance the box will have in the bathroom. It can hide only a small area where the pipes pass, or take up enough large area. The advantage of the first option is the saving of material and the absence of the need to sacrifice free space. When choosing a more voluminous modification, additional space inside the structure can be adapted for storing things.

Advice: if you are going to lay the walls with tiles, it will be more convenient to make a box first. It will hide part of the ceiling, and there will be no need to lay tiles in this place.

  • Take the necessary measurements and make a drawing of the box. At this stage, consider such important additional elements, as hatches for access to meters, valves and unreliable connections.
  • Calculate quantity required material with a small margin.

It will be more convenient to join the panels horizontally. At vertical version To ensure structural rigidity, additional transverse frame strips will have to be installed every 40 cm.

Necessary materials

To make a plastic box you will need:

  • metal profiles for frames such as UD and CD;
  • polymer panels;
  • silicone sealant;
  • PVC skirting boards for masking joints;
  • inspection doors;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • sharp construction knife.

Making the frame of the box

When installing the structure frame, follow the following instructions.

  • On the walls adjacent to the corner, install guides (UD profiles) that will determine the dimensions of the box. Don't forget to use a level. To attach load-bearing profiles to the wall, use European screws and dowels. If the surface is tiled, you can take metal screws 2.5 centimeters long and 3.5 millimeters in diameter. They are screwed into the seams between the tiles.

Tip: To save space in the bathroom, install profiles closer to the pipes. Minimum distance– 3 centimeters.

  • If the pipes run horizontally, place the profile parallel to the floor and secure it to it.
  • Start forming outside corner. Twist a corner post from two UD profiles. Send their shelves to different sides at a right angle and connect with small screws - “fleas”.
  • Cut the CD supporting profile into pieces, the length of which will correspond to the dimensions of the structure. Attach the corner stiffener to the wall. Insert the finished profile pieces with one end into the guide installed at the first stage, and the other into the stiffening rib. Thus, both parts of the corner are connected to the profile.
  • Every 50 centimeters, add jumpers, which are necessary for the subsequent fastening of PVC panels.
  • The second corner profile is attached in a similar way to another wall.

We cover the frame with PVC panels

Once the supporting structure is ready, you can begin covering it. This should be done in the following sequence:

  • Set up a starting profile. Carefully, avoiding deformation, secure it with fleas to the installed guide.
  • Measure a strip of plastic panel to the required length and cut it with a sharp knife.
  • Fix one panel in the starting profile, attach the second to the corner profile and install it to another plane of the box. To connect, use the same “fleas” or “bugs”.
  • Assemble the second side of the box in the same way. Fix the starting profile on the last plastic panel, then secure it. If you do this with silicone, you can ensure ease of dismantling in the future if an emergency arises.
  • Cut inspection holes in places where you need unobstructed access to important elements pipeline: taps, meters and joints. Using silicone sealant, secure special hatches in the holes.
  • The last step will be installation plastic skirting boards in places where panels join each other, as well as with the floor, walls and ceiling.

The pipe box in the bathroom is ready. With the right coloring of the panels, it looks neat and harmonious even in combination with tiled finishing.