It has long since ceased to be a curiosity. Many owners of houses and apartments are increasingly resorting to this method of space heating, planning its use in conjunction with classical system heating or even instead. There are many advantages - this is efficiency, and special comfort, and optimal distribution of heat in the volume of the room.
If we compare the two main types of warm floors”, and, then the second one is much simpler and cheaper in arrangement, easier to set up and operate. Many scare away high price electricity. But this criterion is also rather conditional, if the apartment or house is well insulated, and the operation of the heating system is well organized. The function of controlling the electric "warm floor" is assigned to special device- thermostat. He is obligatory element system, and the level of created comfort and economic operation.
Installing such a “brain” of the system is not at all so difficult task. Let's figure out how to connect a warm floor to a thermostat.
Just a few words about the importance of a high-quality, correctly functioning electric floor heating control system.
Such a heating system cannot simply be connected to the network and operated according to the principle “the warmer the better”. The surface heating temperature is always strictly limited, and usually does not exceed a maximum of +27 degrees in residential premises. It can be somewhat higher in bathrooms and showers, in corridors or hallways, but also within + 30 ÷ 33 degrees. And why?
Not only that, the total consumption, even in such a continuous mode of operation, is very small. Savings are also achieved by fine-tuning the modes. That is, heating will be carried out exactly when it is really needed.
All these control functions are taken over by a special device - a thermostat.
Thermoregulators are compact devices designed for installation in a standard socket (built-in models) or directly on the wall (overhead). To work in underfloor heating systems, they must be equipped with a temperature sensor with a signal cable. Many thermostats also have a built-in temperature sensor that monitors the air temperature in the room. Such models are usually used when the system electric heating becomes the main heat source. But they always provide for the possibility of connecting an external temperature sensor and using the “on the floor” mode of operation.
warm floor
The whole variety of modern temperature controllers can be divided into three groups:
All controls of such devices are usually limited to the power key and the setting wheel with a printed temperature scale. A simple indication is provided - an LED that indicates whether the power to the heating elements is currently on.
The advantages of such devices are simplicity and affordable price. But insertion accuracy temperature regime can "limp" - however, this is quickly solved by the user on an intuitive level. And the second drawback, more important, can be considered the lack of the possibility of programming operating modes. That is, it will not be possible to achieve a sensitive saving in energy consumption with an electromechanical thermostat.
Such devices are certainly more convenient to use, but their functionality is not much different from electromechanical ones. Neither programming capabilities nor non-volatile memory is provided. Apparently, this circumstance just limits their popularity. They are already much more expensive than their electromechanical "brothers". But to achieve real energy savings with them is also not possible.
For example, the floor warms up in the morning when the owners wake up and remains in this state until they leave for work (study). During the day, the system will simply maintain the minimum required temperature value - there is no need to waste energy in vain. But by the time the residents come home, the most comfortable conditions will be created again.
Several such cycles can be programmed during the day. And taking into account the schedule of their work, pre-arrange the days off when the heating modes will be different. There is always an opportunity to correct the given settings if there have been certain changes in the way of life of the family. Or simply - temporarily switch to manual mode. And the programmed modes will be saved in the memory of the device, and you can return to them at any time.
Modern models, in addition, can be equipped with remote control from the remote control, or even remotely, via Internet or GSM communication channels.
Most of the models on sale are designed to control the "warm floor" system in one room. But if conditions allow, then you can purchase a two-channel device. It is able to independently control heating in adjacent rooms. It is equipped with two remote temperature sensors, and its terminals allow you to connect two heating circuits from one supplied power line.
You can also add that in addition to built-in and overhead devices, thermostats are also produced with installation on a DIN rail.
floor heating thermostat
But there is no particular convenience for operation in an apartment or house. Unless - there is no need to pull the power line to the location of the thermostat - it is already in the distribution cabinet. But more problems with laying a signal cable from a temperature sensor and "cold ends" from a heating cable or mat. So the gain is doubtful. And all room regulators have a fairly neat design. So they will not spoil the interior - they fit perfectly, for example, into groups or switches.
I place this device on the wall in a place convenient for the user - so that setting the modes and visual control does not cause difficulties. True, there are several rules-recommendations that should be followed:
For a built-in thermostat (in the diagram - item 1), a socket is cut out in the wall for a conventional socket box with a diameter of 68 mm. True, most masters recommend using not a standard socket box with a depth of 45 mm, but with an increased depth of 60 mm. This is to ensure that the thermostat housing and all groups of wires connected to the terminals fit seamlessly into it.
A dedicated power line should be connected to this socket, taking into account the power of the planned load. As a rule, for electric "warm floors" a cable with a core cross section of 2.5 mm² is enough, which can easily withstand a load of up to 3.5 kW. The line must be protected in a 16 amp switchboard. (Meaning, of course, copper wires- aluminum for the home has long been "outlawed").
A groove is cut vertically to the floor from the socket (pos. 2). It will accommodate "cold ends" connected through couplings (pos. 3) to the heating cable or mats, and the cable of the temperature sensor. The depth and width of the groove is usually made such that two corrugated tubes with a diameter of 10 mm fit in it. One of them will house power wires- "cold ends", just for security reasons. And the second tube is for the temperature sensor, and it goes from the wall to the floor (item 4) up to the point of its installation.
This installation is explained by the fact that temperature sensors fail from time to time. And in order to be able to replace it, it is placed in the pipe. Its cable is quite rigid, and it can be pushed a considerable length in this channel.
On the floor, a tube with a temperature sensor is located openly if it is planned to fill the screed with a thickness of 35 ÷ 50 mm. It turns out that the sensor will control the heating temperature of this concrete monolith, which plays the role of an effective heat accumulator. In the same cases, when tiles will be laid directly on the heating mat (some types of systems require this method of installation), a streak is cut into the floor surface for and in the floor surface.
The corrugated tube is not used only with a film electric "warm floor". There is no screed, that is, the replacement of a failed sensor can be carried out by dismantling the section of the floor covering. Yes, and the temperature readings are taken here in a slightly different way - directly from the heating element. This will be dismantled below.
The end of the corrugated tube, so that the solution does not get into it during the pouring of the screed, is jammed with a cork (pos. 5). The plug can be included in the kit, or it can be made independently, for example, from several layers of waterproof tape.
The illustration below shows the thermostat kit. In addition to the temperature sensor, it includes not only a piece of corrugated pipe, but also a plug to it.
And, pay attention to one interesting nuance. The manufacturer completes the set with a brass plug. It is in it that the head of the temperature sensor, that is, the temperature-sensitive element itself, should enter. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, the readings that the sensor will take are more correct in this case.
Any thermostat, if it was purchased in a store, is accompanied by detailed instructions for connecting it. But with the switching of wires at the terminals of the device, it is quite possible to figure it out yourself, focusing on the marking of the contacts. Despite the wide variety of models, most retain approximately the same scheme. So let's look at it with an example.
By the way, it will never be superfluous to check with an ohmmeter that the specified resistance is real before installation. If a match is obtained (± 5-10%), then the sensor is working, and it can be safely installed in place. If the value obtained is clearly different, then this may indicate a malfunction of the sensor. And it is better to replace it immediately so that you do not have to mess with it later.
So, there is no wisdom, everything is simple. But when carrying out switching, care is still needed special.
A common mistake of inexperienced users is that the power wires are installed on the load connection terminals. After applying voltage, the thermostat with a probability close to 100% will fail.
Before connecting, it never hurts to check the instructions and the applied symbols again. The fact is that some models of thermostats have a different terminal arrangement. In particular, first two zeros, power and load, are located nearby, and then two phase contacts in the same order. And if you apply the "stereotypical" wiring diagram shown above, this will mean a guaranteed short circuit.
Where to put the ground wire?
Infrequently, but there are models of thermostats in which a separate terminal is allocated for connecting the ground wire and the shielding braid of the heating cable.
But more often they do it differently. The green-yellow conductor of the power cable is connected to the shielding braid through a terminal or crimp sleeve directly to each other, directly. And they place this connection in the space of the socket.
IN modern models temperature controllers, for example, with remote and remote control, there may be additional terminals for connecting communication channels or other devices. This option is not considered, as it is somewhat beyond the scope of our article. In such a case, you should clearly follow the attached instructions. Or, if there is no experience of such robots, it is better to invite a specialist.
This section of the article discusses three examples, each of which has its own characteristics.
This example was chosen because such a thermostat belongs to the most, perhaps, mass models. When installing it, there are a number of nuances that you should know in advance. Trial switching is shown to check the operability of the device, that is, so far without a permanent installation in the socket. But well, the operation of the thermostat is very clearly demonstrated.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | So, a very popular model due to its cost (less than 1000 rubles) and sufficient reliability and unpretentiousness is the RTC 70.26. A test connection and function check will be carried out. An incandescent lamp will act as a connected load (it stands on the table). |
 | Rear view - terminals for connecting pairs of wires are located on the case. The mounting frame with arcuate slots is clearly visible - for mounting the thermostat in a standard socket box. |
 | A feature of this model, and very inconvenient - before disassembling the thermostat, it is necessary to remove the adjusting wheel. It has to be hooked with a screwdriver and moved along the axis progressively upwards. |
 | A screw is hidden under the wheel, which fixes the cover on the device body. It is shown in the photo with a screwdriver. The right screw does not need to be touched - this is just a wheel rotation limiter. |
 | After unscrewing the screw, the cover is carefully removed by a progressive upward movement. |
 | Here it is - a nuance. The wheel rotates on a plastic axle, which, after removing the cover, is very easy to remove from its seat. Care must be taken because: - the axis can be broken by a careless movement; - such small details have harmful property fall out and roll into the most hard-to-reach places so that they are not easy to find. So it is better to immediately carefully pull it out yourself and put it in a safe place. |
 | Frame with mounting holes. Naturally, in a real installation, one should be installed first - all the wires will pass through its window ... |
 | ... and then the thermostat itself will be superimposed on top of it. As you can clearly see, their mounting holes match. |
 | Let's move on to switching. First you need to loosen the screws in all the terminals that will be used. When working with the terminals, use a screwdriver with a narrow (3 mm) sting so as not to damage the plastic edges of the round sockets. |
 | The power supply wires are connected to terminals 1 and 2. Important - do not forget to comply correct location zero and phase - this is indicated on the case near each of the terminals. In this case, just to test the thermostat, a piece of cable with a mains plug is connected, which, when tested, will be plugged into the outlet. |
 | Terminals 3 and 4 are connected to the wires going to the load. Instead of a warm floor circuit, an incandescent lamp will be used for the test. |
 | Finally, the ends of the temperature sensor signal cable are installed and clamped into terminals 6 and 7. Their relative position does not matter. |
 | Switching completed. Please note that the wires suitable for the terminals can be multi-wire, and directly clamping their stripped ends is undesirable, since the contact may turn out to be initially unreliable, and even weaken over time. All such wires are immediately put on terminal lugs and crimped. The exception is the copper wires of the power line, if they are solid. But if a stranded wire is also used there (for example, PVA 3 × 2.5), then the tips are definitely needed. |
 | Imagine that the thermostat is connected, installed in the socket, and it needs to be assembled. |
 | First, a plastic axle is carefully inserted into its socket. It is necessary to feel that its lower slot has entered the existing connection on the board. |
 | After that, the top cover is put on. The switch key must enter its window, the axis must pass through the hole. |
 | Next, the cover is fixed with a screw. The plastic is quite brittle, so you should not try to tighten the screw tightly - this way you can achieve a crack or even a break under the head. |
 | Gently put on the axle and slide the temperature setting wheel all the way down. You can immediately check the correctness of its installation - the risk printed on it should move in the range of the applied scale. |
 | Everything is ready for testing. The power wire is connected to the network. The start key switches to the upper position - "on". |
 | Nothing happens - there is no power to the load. But this is because the temperature is set to only 10 degrees on the regulator, and the room is clearly more. It is clear that the temperature sensor does not give a command to turn on. |
 | Let's try to move the slider but the mark of 30 degrees. Yes, the light turned on, that is, the thermostat turned on the power to the load, which it should have done! |
 | Let's start to gradually reduce the value of the set temperature on the regulator. When the level is lower than the actual temperature in the room, the thermostat will turn off - heating is not required. It is obvious that the device works correctly. |
You can modify the experiment a little. Set the same heating level to 30 degrees, and then hold the head of the temperature sensor in your palm. Since the human body temperature is higher, when the heating level reaches more than 30 degrees, the thermostat must turn off the power.
But all this was shown more for a better understanding of the principle of connection and operation of the thermostat. And now we need to look at the process of installing this device, as they say, in place.
underfloor heating film
This example shows the process of connecting and installing an electric cable "warm floor" thermostat. The heating elements have been laid and filled with screed for a long time. On the walls of the room, even the decoration has already been completed. The socket box is walled in, and all the cables and wires necessary for connection are brought into it.
Naturally, before starting work, you should once again check whether the power line going to the warm floor is de-energized - the machine must be turned off.
The thermostat "DEVIreg Touch" of electronic type is used, the removable cover of which is simultaneously a touch-sensitive digital display. It is mounted on the body with snaps, while simultaneously commuting with it through the existing connector.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | The socket box opens if it was covered for the duration of the finish. The wires are brought out. So, there are three types of wires - a single-core copper power cable VVG 3 × 2.5, a two-core heating cable in a shielding braid and a temperature sensor signal cable. |
 | All wires are cut so that they come out of the socket beyond the wall level by 80 ÷ 100 mm - this is enough. |
 | To begin with, it is best to immediately deal with grounding. It is necessary to connect the green-yellow wire of the power cable to the copper shielding braid of the heating cable. The connection will be made by the Wago terminal. Since the braid consists of many thin wires, for a quality connection in the terminal, it must be tinned. |
 | The end of the braid is neatly twisted tightly, treated with flux, and then covered with a thin layer of solder. |
 | The green/yellow ground wire end of the power cable is stripped. It's best to do this special tool- insulation stripper. |
 | Then both prepared conductors are alternately inserted and clamped in the Wago terminal. |
 | After that, the wires are carefully bent, and this connecting node is removed to the socket. |
 | The terminal should be located at the very bottom of the socket. As already mentioned, for a thermostat it is better to use an increased depth socket. With switching of grounding it is finished. |
 | The remaining wires are being prepared for connection. Their ends are cleaned from insulation, by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. |
 | Since the "cold ends" of the heating cable have a multi-wire structure, for a quality connection in the screw terminals of the temperature controller, they should be "put on" in crimped lugs. |
 | The monofilament wires of the VVG power cable will be perfectly clamped in the terminal without any lugs. The temperature sensor wires may have terminal lugs installed at the factory. However, just here there is practically no load, so you can get by with tinning the tips - this will be enough. If there are tips desired diameter- you can put them. The main thing is that the end of the wires is not fluffy, so that good contact is ensured. |
 | If all the wires are prepared, you can proceed to their switching. The order in which the pairs are connected does not matter. In this example, the wizard started by connecting the temperature sensor cable. As stated earlier, mutual arrangement temperature sensor wires in the terminals (NTS) is not regulated. The wires are inserted into the terminals and tightened with screws. By applying a pulling force, the reliability of their fixation is checked. |
 | Further, the "cold ends" of the heating cable, dressed in tips, are brought into the terminals and then tightened. Here, the color marking of the conductors is already observed. Please note: just such an example is shown, when the power and heating cable wires are installed “in a crossover” - two phases side by side, and then two zeros. It is important to be very careful about this, focusing on the applied designations. |
 | After that, they are brought into their terminals and the power wires are also clamped, also in strict accordance with color coding and applied markings. |
 | All wires are connected. You can go through again to be sure - check the quality of the tightening of the contacts on all terminals. |
 | Now the thermostat housing must be carefully inserted into the socket. In order not to interfere with the wires, which have a fairly significant rigidity, proceed as follows. First, the device is taken as shown in the illustration. |
 | Then gently turn it up so that all the wires below get the first uniform bend. |
 | After that index fingers on both sides, the wires are pressed to the back of the thermostat housing ... |
 | ... and the device itself is rotated a little back. |
 | The result should be such a zigzag bend of all wires ... |
 | ... and the thermostat will easily fit into the socket. |
 | If necessary, it is trimmed horizontally using the building level ... |
 | ... and then fixed to the socket with self-tapping screws. Masters recommend using not the self-tapping screws that come with the kit, but somewhat longer, 25 or 30 mm - this will be more reliable. After baiting the screws, the evenness of the installation is again checked - and then they are completely tightened. |
 | Everything, the device case is installed, it remains to attach the front touch panel to it. There are no difficulties here - it is installed in place and gently sags forward until the latches work. |
 | Everything, the thermostat is installed. If conditions allow, you can turn on the power and conduct a test run of the "warm floor" system. Well, then - setting up and programming the device, in accordance with the instruction manual attached to it. |
It can be added that the start-up of the “warm floor” system, if the heaters are covered with a screed, can only be carried out after it has fully gained strength. It is absolutely unacceptable to "stimulate" the hardening and maturation of concrete by turning on the heating. And even after the complete readiness of the screed and the floor covering, the launch is still not carried out at once at the rated power. It is necessary to start, for example, with heating to 15 degrees, and then increase the temperature by 5 degrees daily until the planned mode is reached. This achieves the most smooth adaptation of all the components of the "warm floor pie" to normal operation at elevated temperatures.
Finally, in the third example, the connection of the thermostat to the floor heating system with infrared film elements is dismantled. There are differences in the installation of the temperature sensor, and the thermostat itself will not be installed on the main wall, but on a hard cladding (MDF lining).
The example shows personal experience the work of the author of this article.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | For a warm floor in this example, 3 running meters film heater "Teplonog" of South Korean production. Specific power - 220 W / m². that is, with a film width of 500 mm, the total maximum power of the entire floor heating system will be only 330 watts. Laying will be carried out in small room private house. The room is a former nursery. The former because the daughter has grown to student age. |
 | More in this case is not required. "Heat floor" is created solely to increase the level of comfort, and not to replace the existing water heating system. It is planned to place heaters in two lines. Longer, two-meter (pos.4) captures the area from front door through the center of the room to desk(pos.2). The second, meter section (pos.3) will be located along the bed (pos.1). After installing the heating system, the floor will be covered with laminate. |
 | A power cable was laid from a dedicated machine located in an adjacent room. I had to break through the wall and remove part of the cladding to let the wires through. It was decided to leave a high shelf on the left wall - it is behind its MDF lining that the power wire will pass, and the thermostat with a parallel socket connected will be located in the area shown by the blue arrow. Film heaters do not require connection to ground, therefore, PVA 2 × 1.5 wires are used. With such a low power of heaters and with the expectation that the socket is intended for charging gadgets, this is quite enough. For the future installation of a thermostat and an outlet, two cladding panels- in them, after a slight alteration, windows will be cut out for installing socket boxes. |
 | Carefully leveled with OSB sheets, the floor surface is covered with a foil substrate made of polyethylene foam. All joints are sealed with foil tape. The illustration clearly shows the area where the thermostat will be installed. The cladding panels are shortened - a small niche-shelf will be equipped there. Windows are cut out in the panels and socket boxes are installed (as for drywall - with presser feet at the back). Immediately installed socket, connected to the power cable. A piece of cable goes from it with a loop, which will be connected to the thermostat. The installation height of the socket boxes in this case was 450 mm, with an acceptable minimum of 400 mm. A small arched window is cut out under the panel with a socket (shown by an arrow) - the wires of the "warm floor" and the temperature sensor will pass through it. |
 | The switching of heating film elements will be carried out according to the following scheme: 1 - temperature sensor; 2 - points of connection to the busbars of phase wires; 3 - points of connection of neutral wires; 4 - points of isolation of the remaining unused cut ends of the tires. All wires do not intersect anywhere and converge at one point - they must pass through the carved arched window. |
 | The heating film is cut into two fragments, which are laid on the places intended for them. The "copper" side of the tires should face down. |
 | Along the long edges, the heaters are fixed to the floor surface with strips of building tape. |
 | First of all, the cut ends of the tires, which will not be involved in switching, are insulated. For this, special rubber-bitumen-based pads are used, which came with the film. On one side, the protective paper backing is removed ... |
 | ... then the insulating strip is glued from below to the busbar ... |
 | ... bent over and crimped tightly. And so - at all four points in accordance with the scheme. |
 | So that the places of insulation do not protrude upward above the surface of the film, a neat window is cut out in the foil substrate exactly along the contour of the insulating lining. |
 | Further, the switching of the supply of film heaters begins. For this, wires are used, which are also included in the "warm floor" kit. |
 | Special terminal contacts are inserted into the busbar cuts. To do this, you can slightly push the gap between the two layers of film with a screwdriver. |
 | The upper lobe of the contact is inserted into this slot ... |
 | ... and the bottom one is simply pressed with a finger at first ... |
 | ... and then finally crimped with pliers. And so - at all points, according to the diagram, where the wires will be connected. |
 | Then, again, strictly according to the scheme, wires are connected to these terminals. Their ends, stripped of insulation, are inserted into the terminal, and then its petals are successively crimped with pliers. |
 | After the terminal is crimped, it is insulated with the same rubber-bitumen pads. Only one sticks on the bottom as shown in the illustration... |
 | ... and the second one is opposite - from above. After careful compression, a neat insulating "cocoon" is obtained. |
 | Under it, a window is also cut out in a foil substrate. In addition, in order to “drown” the wire, a groove is cut out under it. Similarly, operations are repeated at all points of connection of wires, according to the scheme. |
 | It's time to install the thermostat. It will be located in the center of the black heating strip, pressed against it from below (the place is shown by an arrow). |
 | Reliable fixation is provided by a strip of reinforced construction tape. |
 | For the signal cable, a groove is cut in the substrate, and for the head of the temperature sensor, even a small recess had to be made in the plywood flooring. |
 | The switching of the heaters is over, all the wires converge at one point - they dive under the lining. |
 | And film heaters are completely around the perimeter, and all grooves with laid wires are “sealed” with strips of construction tape. |
 | The wires are wound up behind the lining, and you can proceed with the installation of the thermostat. |
 | The wires are stranded, so crimp terminal lugs were installed on all stripped ends. |
 | The wires are passed through the windows cut out in the socket ... |
 | ... and then the panel with the socket box is installed in its place and finally fixed there. |
 | Such a thermostat will be installed, of an electronic type with the possibility of weekly programming of the “warm floor” operating modes. |
 | First of all, it needs to be disassembled. |
 | First, the facing frame is removed - it is fastened with latches, and it is easy to dismantle it. And the thermostat itself must be removed from the metal caliper. It is fixed on it with a movable metal bracket - it is clearly visible in the photograph. |
 | This bracket is moved upwards with a screwdriver and enters from the ground with a support. |
 | Caliper and thermostat after disassembly. |
 | The caliper is immediately put in place - fastened with screws to the socket. Wires run through it. |
 | The location of the terminals on the thermostat is nothing special, the standard scheme. |
 | First of all, the contacts of the temperature sensor cable are connected. |
 | Then - the load wires, that is, coming from the heating film elements. And finally, the wires of the power cable - their connection simply did not get into the frame. |
 | Before the final installation of the thermostat in place, it makes sense to check the performance of the assembled system. |
 | To do this, the machine turns on, that is, power is supplied, and the inscription “Off” appears on the display of the thermostat. So far everything is going according to plan. |
 | The thermostat turns on. But the heating does not start, since the work was carried out in the summer, in hot weather, and the factory preset on the device is 24 degrees. On the right side of the screen, there are real temperature readings on the temperature sensor, and this is more than 28 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary for the experiment to temporarily set the heating level to 33 degrees. And the “warm floor” works instantly - the heating icon appears on the indicator (indicated by an arrow), and bare feet feel a rapid rise in temperature on the floor. Everything is working! |
 | You can turn off the system, just in case - temporarily de-energize it and finally install the thermostat. Installing it is no longer difficult - it is attached to the caliper, and then a decorative frame is installed. After that, the power of this line was turned on again. The thermostat will be in the off position before the cold weather, but the socket may well be used for its intended purpose. |
 | And finally, to complete this example logically, it shows what happened after the laminate flooring and final finishing thermostat installation site. |
* * * * * * *
So, in the publication, examples of installing an electric floor heating thermostat were considered in detail. Only moments related to the fine tuning and programming of such devices fell out of sight. But this is done on purpose so as not to cause confusion. It’s just that different models may have their own characteristics, and there are no universal “recipes”. Therefore, here you will have to strictly follow the instructions attached to the thermostat. Or search for more detailed description performed operations on programming on the Internet.
As an example, we recommend watching a detailed video tutorial posted on YouTube by one of the users. By the way, the fine tuning of the model is demonstrated, which almost completely coincides with the one shown in the last installation example.
In the presence of an infrared heater, the thermostat performs the functions of controlling the set temperature parameters for a certain time. With it, you can schedule the preheating of the room, minimize the likelihood of a fire and create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere in the house. To do this, it is enough to know how to connect the thermostat to an infrared heater.
The operation of the thermostat is based on the cyclic process of closing and opening electrical circuit. The regulation of the microclimate by this parameter is based on the signals sent by the temperature sensor. Let's look at this process in more detail:
This cycle continues for a predetermined time and allows you to talk about automatically setting the temperature in a room equipped with an infrared heater. Its advantage is in heating the surrounding objects, and the thermostat makes it easier to control this process.
Despite the universal nature of the principle of operation of the thermostat, there are several classifications for these auxiliary devices that determine the algorithm for their connection, control and configuration. So, according to the mechanism of action, thermostats can be divided into two large types:
Mechanical thermostats are simple and reliable
Reliable and easy to manage mechanical thermostats remind by appearance a plastic box with a lever that controls the temperature parameters. Adds convenience in operation, the presence of a scale, the divisions of which are plotted in increments of 1 degree. Inside the device is a sensitive membrane, the heating or cooling of which form the basis of climate control. The popularity of these models has its own reasons:
Electronic thermostats are more modern, but require a special approach
The main features of electronic thermostats are as follows:
To increase service life electronic device direct contact should be avoided. sun rays, and also take care of the absence of drafts in the room.
Before proceeding with the connection of the thermostat, it is necessary to make sure that there are favorable conditions for its operation:
The standard thermostat connection scheme fits into the framework of the following algorithm:
If it is required to equip two adjacent heaters with a thermostat, then a parallel connection option is used, in which two wires also come to the thermostat from the shield, and a wiring is formed at the output to each of the heaters.
To connect two heaters, the circuit will look like this:
The model of the heater will determine the specifics of connecting the thermostat.
Ballu is one of the most well-known manufacturers thermostats
So, the instruction from the manufacturer Ballu contains the following important additions:
For infrared heaters of the "warm floor" system, thermostats with a remote sensor are used, which imposes its own characteristics during installation and subsequent connection:
Being engaged in self-installation of the thermostat, you should take care of observing elementary safety rules:
Thus, infrared heater, equipped with a thermostat, allows you to save electricity, warm up the room in advance and facilitate the process of climate control. It is important to correctly connect the thermostat to the heating device. Strict observance of the requirements of the instructions guarantees safe and long-term operation of the device.
To create comfort inside a dwelling, there are many devices, among which are various devices that take on the function of adjusting the temperature of water or ambient air. This type of device includes a thermostat, this product is designed, after setting, to independently maintain the temperature of a heater or other heating element by turning the power supply on and off. This article discusses the question of how to connect a thermostat, and also provides a diagram for connecting the controller to a floor heating system.
There are two main types of thermostats, which differ depending on the principle of operation:
In both cases, the control is carried out manually, by setting the required temperature on the controller case. You can also distinguish the classification of thermostats based on visualization and control keys. Thermostats are available with rotary dials with a scale, setting buttons or a touch screen. The principle of operation of all these products is not significantly different from each other.
There is also a classification of thermostats according to the type of placement: external or internal. Depending on the task to be solved, the device can be installed into the wall in a pre-made niche. Construction size such a device coincides with an ordinary socket, so it is often mounted in a hole cut by a crown.
The outdoor thermostat has a thicker body that is closed on all sides plastic plates. The disadvantage of such a device is its size, due to the inability to place the device inside the wall, it will protrude on a plane, moreover, when connecting a cable to it, you will have to arrange an additional channel from corrugated pipe or penal.
Thermostats are widely used in various fields, both in industry and in everyday life. Most often, these devices can be found in underfloor heating systems with a heating element in the form of a heating bundle, which is located in the screed. When power is applied to the electrodes, the wires heat up and give off heat to all surrounding layers, for correct operation the system is equipped with a temperature sensor built into the screed. The controller can be used for electric or water underfloor heating, the principle of its operation does not change from this.
The thermostat is also used in heating or heating boilers for automatic adjustment of the heating level of the internal environment. These devices are supplied by many manufacturers. heating appliances already at the manufacturing stage, but even if the boiler design does not provide for this, the controller can be installed on the line yourself.
Since thermostats can be used both to control heating elements and to control a cooler, there are two types of contacts and terminals in the design of the device. During self connection devices into the system, it is necessary to strictly observe the polarity of the contacts and avoid contradictions in the circuit.
No electrical connection is required to connect a mechanical thermostat, since all control and opening of the switch is done by physically changing the characteristics of the heating plate. To connect this device, you need to follow the algorithm below:
There is also a thermostat connection scheme using a magnetic circuit breaker, most often this scheme is used when there are several controlled devices that require current from high voltage. In this case, the machine is connected to an open network of a positive cable in parallel with a thermostat, in addition there is a connecting cable with a control device. Current is supplied to consumer devices through circuit breaker but it is controlled by the thermostat. The heating elements are connected to the controller only on a parallel line and through the machine, this allows the system to be operated with high voltage without interruption and in a safe mode. In case of occurrence emergency the switch will trip and completely de-energize all devices.
Thus, it can be seen from the diagram that the thermostat is connected to heating or cooling devices immediately before applying voltage to them, that is, the controller will be the first element in the system. Many thermostats are equipped with an electronic microcircuit and a processor that, in addition to temperature readings, provide additional data on various indicators, such as the state of humidity in the room, pressure and the time required to reach the set parameters. Such devices have a cost much higher than mechanical household thermostats.
Depending on the type of heating cable in the underfloor heating system, the connection scheme will be different. There are two types of floor: with a single-core and two-core harness, the principle of operation between them is similar, but a multi-core cable has a working life, as well as technical indicators in terms of speed and height of heating is much higher.
Connecting a thermostat to a single-core system is easier - just connect two neutral cables to one terminal, and a phase to the appropriate socket. In this case, the current will pass through the entire length in series along the ring of the bundle.
In a two-core cable, all wires exit from one side, so the connection is made in series - one wire to one terminal. The current in this circuit passes along the entire length of the heating element and returns along the same path in one direction.
Thus, subject to all the rules and the algorithm for connecting a thermostat to any circuit, all that remains is to set the device to the desired parameters by rotating the wheel on the temperature scale.
Efficient heating control is a vital part of the efficient operation of the boiler and home heating system. Proper use of the controls will reduce the energy consumption of the unit, while creating a comfortable temperature in every room of the house, avoiding overheating of the premises. And the thermostat (or programmer) controls the operation of the boiler, depending on the temperature in the room.
Up to 20% of the volume of consumed energy carriers can be saved using this kind of automation. And energy prices are quite high and the desire of every normal person to reduce their costs.
We consider the situation when the boiler is designed correctly, the necessary insulation of the premises has been completed, and the heating system is functioning normally.
There are several types of boilers: solid fuel, gas, electric and liquid fuel.
Boilers are widely used all over the world. There are domestic samples, there are boilers and imported ones. The material of manufacture is steel or cast iron. Easy to operate, economical, with the function of adjusting the temperature of the coolant. In cheaper models, this function is implemented using a special device - a thermocouple.
Structurally, the thermoelement is a metal product, geometric dimensions which under the influence of temperatures decreases or increases (depending on the degree of heating). And this, in turn, changes the position of a special lever that closes and opens the draft damper. The photo shows an example of such a regulator:
Photo: sample thermostatThe more the damper is open, the stronger the combustion process, and vice versa. Thus, the volume of air that enters the combustion chamber closed type, is fully controlled by a thermostat, and if necessary, its supply stops and the combustion process dies out. In more modern models, controllers are installed that, depending on the specified thermal conditions, control the air flow, turning on (or turning off) a special fan (see photo below):
gas boilers- the most common and cheapest to operate units. Boilers are single-circuit and double-circuit. Single-circuit boilers have one heat exchanger and are intended only for heating. The switching circuit is shown in the figure below:
Scheme of switching on a single-circuit boiler Double-circuit boilers have two heat exchangers and are designed for heating and receiving hot water. The boiler connection diagram is shown below:
Some boilers have separate controls for heating and hot water temperature.
A fairly common alternative to gas and solid fuel boilers. A lot of advantages, high efficiency, but a long payback period. The connection is simple, like for gas boilers, but without a supply cold water. Temperature control and overheating protection are provided.
Boiler mechanical timer Using a simple mechanical electric boiler timer There are three options for starting the central heating system:
Mechanical timers usually have a large round dial with a 24-hour scale in the center. By turning the dial, you can set the desired time and then leave it at that position. The boiler will turn on at the right time. The outer part consists of a set of tabs with a 15-minute period, which are inserted for the convenience of adjusting the operation and setting modes. An emergency reconfiguration is possible, which is performed when the boiler is connected to the network.
Mechanical timers are easy to set, but the boiler always turns on and off at the same time every day, and this may not satisfy the owners if the family is large, and bath procedures held several times a day at different times.
According to the type of functions, they can be divided into several groups:
- with one function (temperature maintenance);
- With big amount functions (programmable).
By design, thermostats are divided into types: wireless and with wires for communication with the boiler. Install thermostats in comfortable spot, connect the temperature sensor, connect it to the boiler control system and use it.
Room thermostats need a constant supply of air to function properly, so they should not be covered by curtains or blocked by furniture. Neighboring with electric thermostat devices may interfere with the correct operation of the device: lamps, TVs, heating appliances nearby.
The programmable electronic room thermostat allows you to select the desired and comfortable temperature at any time, it is easy to reconfigure and change the mode of operation. The timer allows you to set a different heating pattern for weekdays and weekends. Some timers allow you to set different settings for each day of the week, which can be useful for people who work part-time or in shifts. Many Terneo and KChM models are equipped with such thermostats.
A programmable room thermostat allows you to set individual heating standards for each day in accordance with your lifestyle and maintain the temperature at home all the time, regardless of the presence or departure of the owners.
Video: Connecting a room thermostat to gas boiler
If a boiler with a radiator is responsible for the heating system, as a rule, only one programmable room thermostat is needed to control the entire house. Some patterns need to be adjusted in the spring and fall when the clocks have gone back and forth or there has been a certain change. climatic conditions. We also recommend changing the temperature settings when changing day and night.
Such a climate controller has several options that expand its capabilities:
Such a thermostat is located far from your boiler and usually allows you to turn the heating on or off throughout the house. Older versions are wired to the boiler, newer systems tend to send signals to the device's command post. It is with devices of a new type that quite expensive, but effective devices are equipped: double-circuit boilers Ferroli, Beretta and domestic AOGV.
Most famous room thermostats for double-circuit boiler trademark GSM and Protherm. They have a built-in dilatometric thermostat for the boiler, which, depending on the model, can work remotely, often this technology is used for an electric boiler or solid fuel units.
The room thermostat turns off the heating of the system as needed. It works by measuring the air temperature and turning the heating on when the air temperature drops below the thermostat setting and turning it off when the set temperature is reached.
Adviсe:
As a rule, the temperature of the whole house or individual rooms is based on only one climate microcontroller in the heating system. The best option its location in the living room or bedroom, which should probably be the most visited place in the house.
Room thermostats need a free flow of air to sense the temperature, so they should not be covered by curtains or blocked by furniture. Appliances adjacent to the electric thermostat may interfere with the correct operation of the device. These include lamps, televisions, neighbor's boilers through the wall, touch switches.
A thermostatic valve is a simple solution to the problem of obtaining a coolant of a given temperature by mixing colder water with warmer water. View three-way valve presented below:
The thermostatic radiator valve allows you to control the temperature in the room by changing the flow of hot water through the radiator. They regulate the flow of hot water through the radiator, but do not control the boiler. Such devices must be installed in order to adjust the temperature that is needed in each individual room.
This idea should be considered as an addition to a thermal control plant. Also, such devices need periodic readjustment and regular performance checks (every six months during the change of operating modes).
Below is a diagram of a home-made thermostat for a boiler, which is assembled on Atmega-8 and 566 series microcircuits, a liquid crystal display, a photocell and several temperature sensors. The programmable Atmega-8 chip is responsible for compliance with the set parameters of the thermostat settings.
In fact, this circuit turns the boiler on or off when the outdoor temperature drops (rises) (sensor U2), and also performs these actions when the temperature in the room changes (sensor U1). Adjustment of the work of two timers is provided, which allow you to adjust the time of these processes. A piece of circuit with a photoresistor affects the process of turning on the boiler according to the time of day.
Sensor U1 is located directly in the room, and sensor U2 is outside. It is connected to the boiler and installed next to it. You can add if necessary electrical part schemes that allow you to turn on and off high-power units:
Another thermostat circuit with one control parameter based on the K561LA7 chip:
The assembled thermostat based on the K651LA7 chip is simple and easy to adjust. Our thermostat is a special thermistor that significantly reduces resistance when heated. This resistor is connected to the electricity voltage divider network. This circuit also contains a resistor R2, with which we can set desired temperature. Based on such a scheme, you can make a thermostat for any boiler: Baksi, Ariston, Evp, Don.
Another circuit for a thermostat based on a microcontroller:
The device is assembled on the basis of the PIC16F84A microcontroller. The role of the sensor is performed by a digital thermometer DS18B20. A small relay controls the load. Microswitches set the temperature that is displayed on the indicators. Before assembly, you will need to program the microcontroller. First, erase everything from the chip and then reprogram, and then assemble and use it to your health. The device is not capricious and works fine.
The cost of parts is 300-400 rubles. A similar regulator model costs five times more.
A few last tips:
Behind last years, in our age of high technology, items with minimal indicators of energy consumption for their work are of particular value. These products are especially suitable for heating devices, effectively adjusting their performance. One of these items is a thermostat for an infrared type heater, which will be discussed in this article.
A thermostat is a device that allows you to fix the temperature in a room after a certain period of time and at the same time adjust the device settings to the required values. For example, when the temperature reaches a certain figure, the heating is forced to end the cycle. And, conversely, with its decrease, the device resumes its work.
The design characteristics and principle of operation of thermostats can be different. There are two main types of thermostats for heaters:
