Only the yellow plum tree, which belongs to the variety of self-fertile plums, can bear fruit, however, it would be good for their representatives to have additional pollinators. Therefore, it is recommended to plant some other “suitable” plum variety close to each other. If for some reason it is impossible to plant other plums in the same area, then you can graft several branches onto the main tree.
Yellow plum inflorescences are treated with a honey solution, thereby attracting insects, allowing pollination to take place, even in unfavorable days. But to improve fruiting, you can add about one gram of boric acid to the honey solution.
Feed the yellow plum. The periods of fertilizing, as well as their composition, may vary, but preference should be given to substances that contain phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen and calcium. In addition, do not forget to treat the trunk and crown of the yellow plum from pests and various diseases in spring and autumn.
If you do not promptly prune old and diseased parts of the tree, the yellow plum will stop bearing fruit. Therefore, it is best to do this gradually, cutting off part of the branches annually.
In addition to all of the above, it should be noted that the yellow plum needs to be watered periodically if there is not enough rain. Be sure to water abundantly in the spring, when the plant is about to bloom, after flowering, and already in the fall.
Next to sea buckthorn, the same plums will bear fruit poorly.
I would advise removing the top layer of turf, watering the tree generously before flowering, and sprinkle soil on top.
1. There are varieties that begin to bear fruit late and increase the yield very slowly, BUT, as a rule, these are varieties with very tasty fruits, because it's worth the wait.
2. plums, with very rare exceptions, are self-sterile, i.e. A pollinator variety is needed. If the variety is known, look in the literature for the desired pollinating variety. If you took seedlings from a nursery, consult there. If you don’t know anything and took it from your friends, then plant Red Skorospelka (its pollen pollinates many varieties, except for thorns, cherry plums and all kinds of hybrids).
3. Is this actually Domestic Plum or Russian Plum (a hybrid of S. domestica with cherry plum and Ussuri plum)? In this case, you will have to verify your identity correct selection pollinator.
4. All plums are very willing to eat, feed them and water them before winter, the harvest and quality of the fruit will improve
Shedding of plums - this could be plum fatty stem.
Today, purely by chance, I discovered a ring made of something semi-transparent on the stem. The color is like dried office glue. I went through the list of diseases and pests of plums, nothing similar. I knocked off part of the ring, it moved away along with top part bark. Now I’m thinking what to do: pick it out and cover it with varnish, or with a clay mash with mullein and vitriol? And what is it anyway? Definitely not gum, I had it on an old cherry tree - I cured it.
Could this be the clutch of a ringed silkworm? If it's not gum.
Not everything, of course, but mostly the same. All my life I thought that silkworms lived in the south. I’ll scrape it off, cover it up and keep an eye on it.
Try bending branches.
In the spring you need to fertilize the soil with nitrogen, and in the fall it is recommended to use phosphorus and potassium. Humus is added even less frequently - once every 3-4 years. Its quantity per 1 m2 should be no more than 12 kilograms.
In dry years, it should be watered regularly throughout the summer, once or twice a month. At the same time, for one mature tree It should take up to 10 buckets of water; for a young one, 4-6 buckets will be enough. It is necessary to water the plum tree in September, because if it becomes exhausted even before winter frosts, the winter will be doubly difficult for the tree to survive. After watering, it is recommended to mulch the soil near the tree trunk in order to retain moisture in it longer.
To protect the tree from damage by clasterosporia, the tree is sprayed with urea in the fall. Until the air temperature reaches the thermometer above 10 degrees, it is recommended to shake off and destroy such a plum pest as the sawfly. About 6 sprayings with a period of 7-10 days should be carried out in order to get rid of the plum moth. For spraying, it is recommended to use preparations such as Biotoxibacillin or Gaupsin.
aphid control
But main enemy“Plums are aphids,” the agronomist emphasizes. - If you don’t fight it, you can not only lose the harvest, but also destroy the plant. It is very advisable to carry out a special treatment of plums in early spring, even before the buds open, namely, spray them with a urea solution (1 kg per bucket of water). But now it’s too late to do this! If pests do attack the plum in the summer, you can carry out emergency treatment by spraying the plant with an infusion of garlic, tomato tops, or a solution of the Fitoverm preparation.
Plum does not bear fruit in depleted soil. Every 2-3 years make a comprehensive mineral fertilizer. Make a circle 25 cm deep near the trunk and add a handful of fertilizer into each. Fill the holes with soil.
Frost damage on a tree reduces yield, so choose seedlings for planting zoned varieties, although this is not a 100% solution to the problem. Clean the wounds and cover them with garden varnish. Harden the tree - in the fall, when the leaves fall, water abundantly, but without stagnating water.
At the beginning of summer, I lay old cardboard around the trunk and throughout the summer I dump cut grass on it, but in a thin layer, so that each layer wilts well and does not rot. By autumn, the cardboard rots, organic matter slowly decomposes, and so balanced diet for plums, and there is enough moisture, even in the most drought. I recommend this method not only for plums, but also for all other fruit and ornamental shrubs. There is only one problem: to make such mulching clothes for everyone, there is not enough grass.
I sprinkle sawdust or peat (whatever is available) on top of the grass. The main thing is that the thickness is at least 8-12 cm. During the summer, the layers settle and I add organic matter.
A woman gardener called the editorial office and asked to answer about the beginning of fruiting of plum and apricot seedlings. She motivated her request for an answer by the fact that she already had a five-year-old apricot seedling growing and there were plum seedlings of the same age that had not yet begun to bear fruit. It was not me who spoke to this woman on the phone. Therefore, many details about the nature of the grown apricot and plum seedlings and the conditions for their cultivation remained unknown to me. And without such data it is difficult to answer such a question.
First of all, it is not clear from the seeds of which varieties of plum and apricot the seedlings were grown by the author of the call to the editor. If these are southern varieties of domestic plum, Chinese plum, cherry plum, apricot, the fruits of which are large quantities are present on the shelves of our trading enterprises, then due to the very low winter hardiness of the seedlings obtained from their seeds, the beginning of fruiting of these seedlings cannot be waited at all. Since these seedlings, due to the lack of heat in our country and their low winter hardiness, will be varying degrees freeze or freeze out to the snow level. I would like to warn US readers about the complete futility of growing seedlings in our conditions from the seeds of fruits of southern varieties of plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach, almond, and cherry for their open culture.
To grow plum and apricot seedlings in order to obtain fruit-bearing plants from them in an open form, we must use pits from the fruits of Ussuri, Chinese and Canadian plums of the Far Eastern, Siberian or Ural varieties and pits from the fruits of apricots also from the Far Eastern, Siberian or Ural varieties. The beginning of the first flowering, and, consequently, the first fruiting of plum and apricot seedlings is associated with the genetic characteristics of the mother variety and the pollinator variety, as well as with the growing conditions of the seedling. The more early-fruiting the seedling's parents are, the more early-fruiting it will be and vice versa. As practice has shown, under conditions good growing seedlings of Ussuri, Chinese and Canadian plums, as well as seedlings of apricots of the Far Eastern, Siberian and Ural selection, begin to bear fruit mainly in 4-5 years. To speed up the onset of fruiting, seedlings should be transplanted from place to place as rarely as possible and should be provided with annual good care. Seedlings should have a large annual increase in shoots and should be grown not as a bush, but as a tree with a small number of main branches. Since it is known that the beginning of fruiting of any fruit tree, occurs only when its shoots, starting from the first year of growth and ending with the beginning of fruiting, reach a certain number internodes of the buds. That is, if you grow a seedling into one trunk with one shoot, which, of course, is practically impossible, then you can achieve the earliest possible start of fruiting.
It is really possible to accelerate the onset of fruiting by forming a crown with a limited number of skeletal branches and leaving a limited number of shoots each year when creating a seedling for maximum growth of shoots. good regime nutrition and moisture.
I have extensive experience in growing plum seedlings and have brought at least a hundred of them to fruiting. I can say that any transplant, especially after a two-year growth period, delays the beginning of fruiting by at least 1-2 years. A lot depends on the precocity of the parents and especially on the quality of care for the seedlings. In order to select seedlings from best qualities and for better cross-pollination, I usually plant them in one landing hole 3-4 seedlings. With this planting, seedlings in one planting hole with the same growth rate begin to bear fruit in 4-6 years. Sometimes seedlings with a slower growth rate begin to bear fruit even in the 7th year. So, if the author of the call to the editor meets the conditions the right choice plum and apricot seeds for growing seedlings, then the absence of the beginning of fruiting of these five-year-old seedlings cannot yet constitute any crime. The possibility of damage to seedlings during wintering should also be taken into account. Any single, and if the seedling’s winter hardiness is not very high, and repeated winter damage, delays the start of its fruiting. To assess the reasons for the delay in the start of fruiting of plum and apricot seedlings, which turn six years old this year, the author of the call to the editor must analyze all the conditions set out in this response.
When choosing a variety to grow, it is worth remembering what year the plum bears fruit after planting. This will allow you to prepare for harvest and make it easier. Each variety is characterized by its own ripening time, depending on the climate of the region and the characteristics of the variety.
Descriptions of plum crops indicate that there are several time frames for ripening.
It is not enough to know what year the plum bears fruit. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that there are certain problems that do not allow the tree to develop and produce a timely harvest. There are several main reasons why fruiting is delayed:
Each variety takes root in certain conditions. Early varieties and varieties with medium ripening times need large quantities sunlight, so they need to be planted in the southeastern part garden plot where the most sun gets during the day.
Late varieties can be planted in any part of the garden, since the sun does not affect their ripening time.
To speed up the process of fruit appearance, you need to choose high-quality soil. They should be light, but contain a large amount of nutrients. Ideal option Chernozems and loamy soils are considered suitable for growing plums. Fruiting is delayed if the acid level in the soil exceeds 4%, so you need to add per 1 square meter. m. 3 kg of lime. When the plum tree begins to bear fruit after planting depends on how correctly the planting is carried out.
The optimal depth of the planting hole should be 60 cm. The root collar must be left above the ground at a height of 5-9 cm. This will provide air exchange to the root system.
When digging a hole in the fall, you need to add organic fertilizers. Pour 5 kg of humus and 3 kg of wood ash into each hole. It is prohibited to use fresh manure, as it increases the acidity of the soil.
The quality of care directly affects how many years it takes for a plum tree to bear fruit. Caring for plum crops is not difficult.
The characteristics of a particular variety determine which year the plum begins to bear fruit. This parameter is also influenced by a large number of factors: how the person will land and where. It is necessary to provide the culture with proper care. If everything is done correctly, then ripening will take place within the time frame specified when purchasing the seedling.
