The technology of laying an electric underfloor heating under a tile is quite laborious, but even an inexperienced person can do it. So that readers of "" can independently install the heating cable (or thermomat), then we will consider detailed instructions with a connection diagram and a video!
Underfloor heating from the network can be represented by a heating cable or a thermomat. We discussed in detail the advantages and disadvantages of each of them in the corresponding article. Now let's briefly talk about which option is better to choose.
An electric underfloor heating from a cable under a tile is cheaper, but at the same time, the calculation of its length and the installation itself are more difficult. It is recommended to use it if you can sacrifice the height of the ceiling (because the screed will be thicker).
As for the heating mat, it has a number of advantages, because in fact, it is an improved version of the explorer. The design feature is that the same cable is already placed on a special fiberglass mesh, which allows you to maintain an even pitch between turns. 
In addition, the convenience of the thermomat is that to calculate the material, you just need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and, based on this parameter, select a roll of a suitable size.
It is up to you to decide which option to give preference to, but we still recommend using the installation of an electric mat, in addition, this option has many positive reviews on the Internet.
If you decide to choose heating mats for installing underfloor heating, we advise you to pay attention to the products of the EKF company, and in particular to the UYUT underfloor heating system. You can choose heating mats exactly for your conditions - ready-made kits vary in size and power. Choice of mechanical or electronic temperature controller with weekly programming function. Speaking about the thermomats themselves, I would like to highlight the full shielding of the current-carrying conductors, due to which the floor surface is evenly heated. You can find out more about EKF heating mats by clicking on the link: https://ekfgroup.com/catalog/sistemy-obogreva/sistema-teplyy-pol.
In this article, we will consider laying a warm electric floor under tiles using a heating cable, as well as a special mat. The preparatory work will be similar, the difference will be only in the main process.
First you need to remove the old flooring and clean the surface of debris. If there are no defects, you can do without a screed (rough). In the event that the floor has irregularities, it is necessary to initially level them with a solution, with a thickness of 3 to 7 cm.
Before calculation work, it is necessary to draw up a diagram for connecting an electric underfloor heating under a tile, on which to mark the step of laying wires or a heating mat.
If you decide to make a warm floor under the tiles with your own hands as the main heating, it is necessary to carry out the calculation taking into account that a heater with a power of at least 140-180 W is required for 1 m 2. For an auxiliary heating system, you can use a power of not more than 140 W / m 2 (80 W is also possible, it all depends on how well the room is insulated).
All you need is to calculate the area of the room (length * width) and subtract from given value the area occupied by furniture without legs and household appliances (because it is forbidden to lay material under them). As a result, you will get a useful heating area. After that, based on the result obtained, the required total power of the heating element and its length are determined. The linear power of one meter of heating cable can vary from 16 to 21 W/m.
For example, if the area of the room is 10 m 2 and you have chosen a heater with a power of 100 W/m 2, then the result will be a total required power of 1 kW. We choose a cable of 20 W / m, the length of which should be 50 m (1000/20).
The thermostat is selected according to the same principle, based on usable area And required power. Additionally, you need to purchase a mounting tape, with which the heater will be attached to the concrete screed.
As you understand, for a room with an area of 25-30 m 2, you will need a sufficiently powerful electric underfloor heating under the tile, which will put a noticeable load on. You must exercise and determine if your wiring is suitable for the new heating system. If it turns out that the diameter of the cores does not match, it is necessary to use a new, more powerful one. Also check that the circuit breaker and RCD are suitable for the new current load.
Now we turn to the installation and the first thing to do is to qualitatively insulate the surface for laying the electric floor heating. This will affect the efficiency of using the system, as well as its economy. The best insulation V this case penofol is considered - roll material with self-adhesive layer and foil coating. All you need is a butt joint to glue the entire concrete surface, then seal the joints with foil tape. It should be noted that penofol should go a few centimeters onto the walls to increase the thermal insulation of the room.
If you want to slightly reduce the height of the room, then instead of penofol, you can put another insulation, for example, polypropylene or expanded polystyrene.
At the end of the robot, it is recommended to glue a damper tape around the perimeter of the walls on top of the insulation, the purpose of which is to compensate for the expansion of the coating when heated. You also need to put a metal mesh on top of the heat-insulating layer, which will prevent direct contact with the heater and will simplify the process of installing an electric underfloor heating under the tile. 
To monitor and control the system, it is necessary to install a special thermostat and temperature sensor. The thermostat is a regulator (mechanical or electronic) with which you can set the optimal temperature regime, as well as the on / off time of the system. It is mounted in the wall, next to the sockets.
As for the temperature sensor, it must be installed in the floor itself. To do this, a special strobe is created in the wall from the thermostat, which is directed strictly vertically to the ceiling. Next, the sensor is placed in a corrugated pipe and led to the temperature control point of the electric underfloor heating under the tile. This place is the middle between two turns of the cable, while there should not be any intersections near. The corrugation protects the sensor from damage, and also allows access to it at any time (for example, when it fails). For reliability, it is recommended that the end of the corrugation that will be in the screed be filled with sealant so that the solution does not get inside. 
Before laying a cable (or mat), it is necessary to measure its resistance. This value should not differ from the passport data by more than 10%. To do this, you need to use a special device - a multimeter (shown in the photo below), which also determines where the phase is, if absent. If the resistance corresponds to the nominal, then it is possible to install an electric underfloor heating under the tile. 
Now that the surface is already fully prepared, it is necessary to fix the heating element. If you use a cable, fasten with a mounting tape, as shown in the photo:
The distance between the turns must be the same over the entire area, otherwise the electric heating of the floor will be uneven. Heating mats are easier to install, because the distance between the turns is maintained along the entire length. All that is needed is to spread the material according to the diagram and connect it correctly to the thermostat.
When the laying of the electric underfloor heating under the tiles is completed, it is necessary to check the correct connection by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. The resulting value should match the one you measured before laying.
To do concrete mortar You need to prepare the following ratio of materials:
It should be noted that the amount of water must be small, otherwise cracks in the screed may occur. As for expanded clay and perlite, it is strictly forbidden to add them to the solution, because. these materials disrupt heat transfer and are one of the causes of conductor overheating.
The thickness of the screed cake should be from 3 to 5 cm. It is not recommended to go beyond these values. After pouring, you must wait until the solution has completely solidified. Despite the fact that the screed will harden in a couple of days, it will completely dry out only after 4 weeks (or maybe more). Until this time, it is forbidden to turn on the electric floor heating.
We also draw your attention to the fact that a screed is required only if it is used heating cable. The thermomat can immediately after laying serve as a base for tile adhesive.
After the screed has set (2-3 days), you can move on to tiling the floor without wasting time. It is recommended to do this only if you have experience, because you need to ensure that the surface is strictly horizontal. The tile "sits" on a special glue, after which the installation of an electric underfloor heating under the tile is considered complete! 
That's the whole do-it-yourself laying technology. We recommend that you watch the video in which you can see some of the nuances of the event:
Video instructions for installing a warm electric floor
Heating cable laying
Also read:
In a modern bathroom, there are necessarily lamps, sockets, fans, a washing machine, less often boilers and other household appliances. About 20-30 years ago, the electrical wiring in the bathroom was not as loaded as it is now. However, in addition to the load, the power grid is also in conditions of high humidity. All this requires special care and compliance with all norms and rules during installation with your own hands.
A wet floor or wall conducts current, since any moisture is an excellent conductor. In order to avoid various incidents and injuries in the future, the following rules must be observed:
Before starting work, you need to acquire some tools, namely:
If in some places it is not possible to use a wall chaser or a puncher, you can make gates (cavities) with a hammer and chisel.
In order for the wiring in the bathroom to last a long time, you need to choose high-quality materials: moisture-proof type sockets, preferably copper wires with triple insulation and a cross section of 2.5 mm and other equipment that ensures the safety of the electrical network. Wires with strong bends and damaged insulation are not allowed.
Was the wiring in the bathroom more than 15 years old? It is recommended to replace it with a new one in order to avoid overheating, fires and frequent knocking out of the machine. When combining a toilet and bathroom, replace the wires in both rooms. It is likely that power was supplied to the premises separately. Feel free to inspect all the wires.
The correct circuit is a reliable assistant to an electrician. Consider installation location electrical appliances, wires, sockets, decide on the type of lighting, in addition to this, you should think about how the room will be heated. Due to the high humidity in the bathroom, the wiring must be hidden.
For hollow walls that are sheathed with plasterboard or other panels, the wires must be in the void between the wall and the cladding, for walls that do not have voids under the sheathing, strobing is performed.
After the walls have been marked out, and the calculations have been carried out, it is necessary to prepare the places for lamps, switches and sockets as accurately as possible. Further, depending on the type of finish, there are several options for how to place the wires in the wall:
The first option assumes the presence of voids in which wires are placed in a corrugated sleeve, passed through drilled holes in vertical profiles.
The second option involves strobe walls directly with laying the cable in the sleeve into the strobe and fixing it with special brackets.
In the third case, as in the second, cavities are created, however, they must be of such depth that the wiring in the corrugated sleeve fits completely there. After that, the strobes should be covered with alabaster mortar and leveled.
Later, a socket box is installed, followed by fixing it with alabaster and attaching triple wires (one core is grounding, the others are zero and phase) to sockets, lamps and other devices.
Modern electrical wiring is grounded and consists of three cores: two of them are zero and phase, the third is ground. In ancient times, when the wiring consisted of two components, they additionally grounded the room by running a cable with a large cross section from the bathroom to the distribution block on the flight of stairs. Now the wires are three-core and go directly to the distributor.
The use of a residual current device contributes to safety during the operation of electrical appliances and is mandatory for connection to the bathroom circuit. The inlet shield is the place where the RCD is located. As the name implies, the device cuts off the electricity supply if the indicators of the outgoing and passing current do not match, so that the person is not shocked. Without experience, it is better not to install this device with your own hands.
Together with the RCD they put automatic machines. Do not confuse the RCD with a separate machine, which stops conducting current during short circuits and overloads. In electrical panels, a different number of machines are installed depending on the number of electrical appliances: for lighting in any rooms - one, for sockets - another, etc. For lighting, the recommended power of switches is 10 A with a load of at least 2200 W per hour. For example, one light bulb consumes no more than 60 watts, washing machines- from 2000 W per hour or more, so for more powerful devices you will have to install a 25 A automatic machine with a load of at least 5500 W.
In new houses or houses with upgraded networks, the floor box is usually equipped with Switchgear, you can also find the main ground bus there. Determine what is being used new system, it is possible along the riser: a five-wire cable is routed through it. The tire is made only of copper and steel. It includes 5 or more places for connection, it is from them that the ground wires come: one is mounted in the shield, all the rest - to the current conductors (there may be a different number). When replacing old wiring the phase wire is connected instead of the old one, and zero - together with the neutral wires. It is forbidden to connect all ground wires on one bolt (clamp).
The electric floor also requires grounding. This is done by laying a metal mesh over the screed, and a ground cable is connected to the mesh with a terminal.
Sockets require the installation of a separate RCD with rated current the same or a little more (but not less) than the machine. With a large gap in the rated voltage, the device simply will not work.
Modern standard wattage washing machines require 16 amp waterproof type ceramic sockets. outer surface. Sockets must be equipped with special covers and protected from splashes.
In the junction box there are connections for several electrical lines, which are connected using twisting or terminal blocks, from there one wire goes to the shield. It is located outside the bathroom. The main plus is the saving of cable and material resources. But there is a significant drawback - unreliability, because the terminal blocks and twists do not tolerate high voltage quite well.
Electrical wiring installed in a private house can be grounded independently with your own hands thanks to a cable connected to a triangle that goes into the ground or a three-piece fitting. After that, the necessary wire is attached to the welded bolt with a nut.
Do-it-yourself wiring installation is within the power of everyone, but before that you need to study many nuances, from the choice of material to safety precautions. Without the proper tools, knowledge and self-confidence, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.
Everything today more people give preference to the arrangement of a water-heated floor. If you are among this number, then, most likely, ceramic tiles have been chosen as the facing material.
This material has excellent technical characteristics. For example, tiles have a high level of thermal conductivity. Thanks to this, the heat does not linger, but quickly enters the room.
However, many are interested in the question of how tiles are laid on a warm floor. The technology is practically no different from laying on a regular floor. Moreover, laying tiles on an electric underfloor heating is similar to laying tiles on a water heated floor.
The only difference is that the water circuit is immediately hidden by the floor screed, and the electric heating can be open. Therefore, the tile is placed directly on the electric heating. In this article, we will tell you about the technology of this process.
Installation on a warm floor tile requires knowledge of some points:
These are the main nuances that are taken into account when laying tiles and making a warm floor with your own hands.
A set of such tools is being prepared for work:
For laying tiles on a warm water floor, the following material is required:
All work consists of several successive stages:
The technology of laying tiles on a warm floor is no different from laying on a regular floor. Let's consider each of these stages separately.
Make sure that the installation work of the warm floor has come to an end. The system is working properly and has been tested/tested. The base for the tiles must be dry and even.
Putting tiles on the screed is much easier. To do this, try to fill it in level. In this case, the tile layer will be minimal. Any contamination and sagging of the solution is removed.
The cleaned and prepared screed is covered with a primer. The use of a deep penetration primer is recommended. After two hours, the surface is primed again for better adhesion of the tile adhesive.
Important! Don't forget to turn off the underfloor heating. Otherwise, the glue will dry out abruptly and it will not hold the tile..
Before laying tiles on a warm floor, marking is performed. It is necessary to decide on what scheme to lay it. For example, there will be a lot of cuts along the diagonal. Can be laid apart so that the vertical seams do not match. With normal masonry, all seams, vertical and horizontal, will match.
Important! The choice of laying scheme does not affect the quality of floor heating. Focus on personal preference.
Having decided on the layout scheme, markings are applied to the floor. With a chopping cord with paint, beat off the line of the first row. This guide will help lay out the entire tile evenly. If there is a pattern, lay the coating on the floor dry. This will help you mark up correctly.
After marking, tile adhesive is prepared. The kneading is done based on the manufacturer's recommendations. Pour water into a mixing container. Add a mixture of a given proportion to it.
If you do the opposite, then the glue will be taken in a lump that is difficult to break. The tile adhesive is mixed with a construction mixer. The finished consistency should resemble a creamy mass.
Check the quality of the glue: put the mixture on the spatula, it should not drain or fall when the spatula is tilted. The mixture should be held on the spatula.
note
After preparing the tile adhesive, allow it to rest for 15 minutes. After this time, re-mix the adhesive.
In the absence of practice, the speed of laying tiles will be small. Therefore, do not knead the glue in large volumes. Calculate the batch for 30 minutes of work. During this time, the glue will not dry out and a crust will not form on it.
note
A gap of up to 20 mm is left between the wall and the cladding. It is needed as an expansion joint.
After laying the tiles and curing the glue, all the crosses are carefully removed. While the adhesive has not completely set, make sure that there are no residues of the mixture in the seams. Otherwise, the grout will not hold well.
When laying near walls, pipes and other elements, pruning is necessary. For cutting, a manual or automatic tile cutter is used. All cuts must be straight and without burrs.
For grouting, a special mixture is used. For the floor, it is recommended to purchase a moisture-resistant grout. With the prepared mixture, evenly fill all the seams. Do not leave sagging on the front side of the cladding.
After drying, it will be difficult to wash it off. After 30 minutes, the surface is washed with a damp cloth and cold water. The floor must be free of stains and other contaminants.
On this, laying tiles on a warm floor can be considered complete. This coverage:
When the lining has dried, you can turn on the warm floor. The drying time of the adhesive mixture can be determined by the instructions on the bag from the manufacturer.
So, from this article it was possible to learn how the installation of tiles on a heating surface is carried out. With all the tips in this article, you should be able to do a great job.
We hope that you have received useful food for thought. Share your experience in the comments at the end of the article. Your experience will be useful for beginners.
Laying tiles on a warm floor - video
obplitke.ru
Underfloor heating is gaining more and more popularity. For its finishing coating use a laminate, parquet board or ceramic tile. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. For flooring in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, hallway, ceramic tiles are often used. Proper styling tiles on a warm floor - a guarantee of its reliability and durability.
General view of the warm floor, lined with ceramic tiles
First of all, you need to figure out what a warm floor is, what types of it are, how they are mounted. This information will help you post it correctly.
Underfloor heating is a multilayer system consisting of a heater, a heating element, a supporting cement-sand screed and a top coat.
There are two types of underfloor heating suitable for laying ceramic tiles:
It is worth considering the features of installing an electric underfloor heating under ceramic tiles. It is a suitable system for ceramic veneering.
There are two types of heating:
Underfloor heating electric cable laid on a metal mesh
This is a type of electric heating. The infrared floor consists of bimetallic or carbon plates sewn into a polyethylene film.
Installation of infrared mats on a warm floor
For a porcelain stoneware base, it is better to use carbon plate mats. Bimetallic - prone to corrosion.
First of all, the surface for laying mats is checked. All irregularities are sealed, or a leveling screed is poured. Then a layer of heat-reflecting material is laid. A fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 30 × 30 mm is mounted on it.
Rolls of infrared floor 1000 mm wide are rolled onto the finished base. The whole system is then connected to electrical circuit. On the finished floor, ceramic granite is laid on a special glue.
The power cable must be directly under the tiles.
He did not find application in apartments. Suitable for heating large areas in private houses and public buildings.
Installation example polypropylene pipes on prepared ground
First of all, the base is leveled. The screed is poured over the entire surface of the floor. Then a damper tape is laid, on which a layer of insulation 50-70 mm thick is mounted. The most common heat-insulating material is mineral wool or expanded polystyrene.
Pipes for hot water are mounted on the prepared base and connected to the general heating system. A cement-sand screed is poured from above. You can use a ready-made self-leveling floor. At the final stage, ceramic granite is laid. Water heating floor "eats" up to 150 mm of room height.
The optimal base for laying porcelain stoneware is an electrically heated floor. It is suitable for small living spaces, baths, toilets, hallways. The technology of tiling electric and water heated floors is the same.
The rules for laying it on a warm floor do not differ from the rules for facing a conventional surface. The exception is the choice of tile adhesive. For a warm floor, there is a special adhesive with increased plasticity. It contains thermoregulating additives.
First of all, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is calculated. Then the number of boxes with tiles is determined. Each one has an area. A margin of 10% is added to the result obtained for trimming and fitting.
The amount of adhesive depends on the unevenness of the base and the thickness of the layer. Average values for consumption per square meter are given on the packaging. Soil norm 200-300 gr./m2.
Before laying tiles, carry out preparatory work. Most often, the base of a warm floor under a tile is a cement-sand screed. It is impregnated with deep penetration soil or concrete contact. Concrete heated floors are covered with plastic wrap or impregnated with bituminous mastic.
Application of a deep penetration primer on a cement-sand screed
The drying time of the soil is 2-3 hours. To improve adhesion, the floor can be treated 2 times.
Drawing guide lines for laying tiles
There are two main ways to lay tiles on a warm floor: in rows or in a run. In the first case, all horizontal and vertical seams of the rows coincide. In the second - the warm floor is laid in a checkerboard pattern. The laying method does not affect performance.
The layout of the room starts from the very long wall. With the help of chalk and a thin lace, the first row is beaten off. From it the rest of the room is marked. This method is suitable for classic styling without additional patterns.
When it is necessary to lay ceramic granite with a pattern, then diagonals are beaten off. This is done with rope and chalk. The intersection point is the center of the room. The whole drawing is laid out from it.
If you plan to lay out a drawing or a diagonal, then first the entire tile is laid out “dry”. This is done to check the calculations and the actual layout.
Mixing tile adhesive in a plastic bucket with a drill
Pilot glue sets quickly. Therefore, a small volume is kneaded at a time - for 30-40 minutes of work.
The setting time of tile adhesive for underfloor heating is 24 hours. After 72 hours, the floor can be loaded with furniture.
Using a glass cutter to cut porcelain stoneware
Ceramic granite is cut only from a smooth face.
They are of two types:
Sealing joints between tiles with a rubber trowel
30-40 minutes after grouting, the seams are washed with cold water.
This completes the laying of ceramic tiles. This is a durable and reliable coating that:
heatplota.guru
Heated floors are one of the types of modern heating equipment used, depending on the region of residence, as the main or additional means of heating houses or apartments.
The so-called warm floors are divided into electric and water - according to the design of the heating circuit included in their design, mounted under the finishing of the base. IN electrical systems the circuit is made of a self-heating cable or infrared film elements, and in water ones it is a hollow tube with a coolant circulating through it (water, antifreeze). Installation of contours of these types warm floors performed using technologies linked to wide range factors - the characteristics of the base and the room, and therefore differ from each other, but at the end of the installation, the heating elements of any of these devices need a protective coating and finish.
The task of this heating system is to heat the floor covering arranged over the contour and then maintain the temperature of its surface at a certain level, so that the heat from the floor is transferred to the air of the room, and contact with the structure, previously always cold to the touch, becomes comfortable for residents. To provide these features floor cladding must be made of materials with a sufficient degree of thermal conductivity, so the best option for finishing underfloor heating is ceramic flooring.
How to properly lay tiles on a warm floor, we will consider in more detail, taking into account the most common situations and factors.
Most types of tiles are made from materials that are less dense than concrete. The difference in density causes different odds thermal expansion of the finished base and tiles, which is fraught with peeling of the cladding at the onset and end of the heating season - at the moments of temperature fluctuations caused by turning on or off the heating equipment. Accordingly, the concentrated heating of the floor structure by the underfloor heating system causes even more significant thermal expansion of these materials. Given these factors, the question of whether it is possible to lay ceramic tiles on a warm floor is quite natural.
The answer is unequivocal - yes, you can. And that's why:
Thus, laying tiles on a warm electric floor or a base with water heating is a completely reasonable and justified decision.
The technology of laying tiles on a warm floor is selected depending on how the heating elements were installed - “wet” or “dry”.
With the “wet” method, a cement-sand mortar screed is made over the heating circuit, water or electric. The question of how to lay tiles on a warm floor, in this case, is solved in the same way as facing a floor surface without heating.
There are several "dry" methods for installing underfloor heating. Here are the most common ones:
In the listed “dry” methods of installing underfloor heating, the material for arranging the heating circuits is different, but in all three cases, the clad base is not concrete, but organic material, which is tiled using special technologies.
It doesn’t matter if the “wet” method was used for laying heating elements or the “dry” method - laying tiles on a warm water floor is carried out in the same way as on a base with electric heating.
The main point in preparing for this work is the choice of material - ceramics and adhesives.
Natural stone, porcelain stoneware, monocottura are facing materials high density and hardness, meeting all requirements for underfloor heating. But ceramic tiles should also not have geometry defects. Any deviation of the sheets from the configuration and dimensions declared by the manufacturer will lead to visual defects in the finish - protruding or recessed corners of ceramics, a difference in the width of the seams.
When choosing between seam or seamless laying of ceramics, it is better to focus on the first option - the grouting material of the joints will partially take over the thermal expansion of each element of the cladding, and the total increase in the size of the decorative shell with this method of finishing will be less than with seamless installation.
Laying and grouting compounds for ceramics on heated floors must have sufficient elasticity, good thermal conductivity and high adhesion to the materials to be glued.
Adhesives from manufacturers Knauf, Prospectors, Unis, Litokol are in no less demand. The choice of the required material is not difficult - the characteristics, scope and consumption of each type of the listed adhesive mixtures are described in detail on the packaging.
Before laying ceramics, the evenness of the supporting screed is checked using bubble level and a flat rail 2 m long - at a given length, differences in height should not exceed 5 mm. If irregularities are detected in excess of this value, the screed is leveled with wide spatula, for this purpose, you can use tile adhesive.
Having decided on the method of laying the tiles (straight, diagonal), it is better to make a preliminary marking of the location of the ceramics on the floor. This is done so that the trimmed elements, if any, are located symmetrically with respect to the selected axes of symmetry of the room - diagonals or lines connecting the midpoints of opposite walls. In some cases, with artistic floor cladding, the installation of ceramics begins from the middle of the floor or its most open zone.
If the walls of the room are also tiled, then the tiles of the vertical surfaces should rest on the floor ceramics - such a joint forms a “lock” that ensures the impermeability of the interface to water.
Summing up the above, we note that all the rules used when laying ceramics on ordinary bases must also be followed when finishing heated floors. But, in addition to these rules, there are specific, obligatory nuances of laying tiles on a warm floor:
Laying ceramic tiles in this case requires more complex and time-consuming preparation of the base.
The joints of the HWP, DSP or multilayer plywood, under which the heating circuit is mounted, are sealed with silicone. Along the perimeter of the room along the sheet flooring, a damper tape 5 cm wide is attached to the wall - it will take on the temperature expansion of the future cement screed.
A day later, after the silicone has cured, a reinforcing mesh is mounted to the sheet flooring. Reinforcement will allow the concrete layer to work better in bending and tension.
It is better to use a steel mesh, with a cell size from 20x20 to 50x50 mm and a wire thickness of 1.5-2.0 mm. The grid is attached to the slabs with self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 150-200 mm. Then, a screed must be made on top of the grid - a cement-sand mortar is laid with a layer of 3-4 cm. After laying the concrete, the room is closed to avoid drafts, and, starting from the 4th day , the screed is moistened daily with water without flooding. In 4 weeks, the screed should completely harden and dry, acquiring a light gray color over the entire surface. Before laying ceramic tiles, the screed is primed with an aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1: 4 or one of the ready-made primers. The tile should be laid on tile adhesive, the layer of which, after tile correction, should be no more than 1 cm.
The base of GWP or CSP is inferior in strength characteristics to concrete, therefore, they should not be lined with heavy natural materials.
And, accordingly, vice versa - laying a mosaic on a warm floor, mounted under a sheet flooring, is a reasonable solution, since the specific gravity of such a finish is small, the small size of the mosaic elements determines their strength, and big square seams compensates for a significant proportion of the thermal expansion of the cladding.
Laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands is an operation, the complexity of which is not much higher than finishing a conventional floor base. Its main feature is right choice materials, to be afraid of which, if available detailed instructions on modern packaging does not follow.
zonaplitki.ru
To finish the floor, in which the heated floors are concreted, ceramic tiles are most often used. This material is an excellent solution, as it has a high level of thermal conductivity. So, the heat passing through it will practically not linger and be lost. However, before proceeding with the tiling of the floor, it is necessary to learn some details. In this article, we will tell you about how tiles are laid on a warm floor.
When laying tiles on the floor, it is important to understand that in the case of underfloor heating, a special approach is required. Moreover, the technology directly depends on the installation method. For example, when installing a water-heated floor, concreting is carried out. On smooth screed laying tiles is very easy. It is a completely different matter when it comes to electric heating. The screed is not always poured. So, you can immediately lay tiles on the laid heating mats. It turns out that the heating element will be located directly in the tile adhesive. In the first and second cases, it is quite possible to do all the work with your own hands.
So, if you decide to carry out the work yourself, then you need to take into account several important nuances, which will be described in this article. First of all, you need to remember that the height of the tile finish must be on the same level with all other rooms. Therefore, even at the stage of manufacturing a warm floor, you should make the appropriate measurements.
Advice! If the floor height of other rooms is initially much higher, then the heating cake may be thicker. For example, you can increase the layer on thermal insulation, but not only due to the screed. In this case, the heating efficiency will be reduced to zero.
If the screed is already ready, then when laying the tiles, the minimum layer of tile adhesive should be at least 10 mm. Otherwise, the generated heat will not be dissipated over the entire surface of the floor, and the floor heating will be in strips, only in those places where the heating cable or pipe is laid. Therefore, you should not strive to make the smallest possible layer of tile adhesive or floor screed. So, if you have already taken into account all these details, you can proceed directly to work. Next, we provide you step by step instructions all work.
First of all, you need to choose a special adhesive for combination with underfloor heating. The packaging of the adhesive must have a corresponding sign indicating the possibility of using the mixture with floor heating.
So, for work you will need the following set of tools and material:
First of all, you need to correctly calculate required material. To do this, you need to know the floor area. Remember that you should not buy tiles and tile adhesive back to back. Be sure to make a small margin up to 10% of the amount received.
After that, the foundation is prepared. We will consider the option when the warm floor is already filled with a screed. Considering that in most cases the screed is made on the basis of a cement-sand composition, its surface must be impregnated with a primer. You can use a deep penetration primer, for example, concrete contact. It will also be useful to make waterproofing. In order not to create an additional barrier to overcome thermal energy, it is better to use coating waterproofing.
After applying the primer, the floors should dry, about three hours. After that, apply a layer of primer again. This will increase the quality of adhesion of the tile adhesive to the floor. The next step is marking the floor. Here you should immediately decide according to which scheme the tiles will be laid. For example, diagonally, apart, or just in a straight line, seam to seam. Having decided on the scheme, you can mark the floor to make it easier to lay tiles on a warm floor. Remember that the quality of underfloor heating does not depend on the method of laying tiles you choose. Now consider the technology of laying tiles on a warm floor.
So, first of all, prepare the tile adhesive. Mix according to the manufacturer's instructions. There is a recipe on the packaging of the glue. By sticking to it, you will be able to prepare the glue of the perfect consistency. Mixing is carried out using a drill and a construction mixer.
Advice! When the adhesive is thoroughly mixed, leave it for 15 minutes. Then stir again and it's ready to use.
If you do not have experience in laying tiles, then do not make a big batch. So, glue must be applied to the tile itself. It is leveled with a spatula with teeth. Also glue should be applied to the floor. At one time, spread the glue on one square meter. Apply additional adhesive to the edges and corners of the tiles.
One of the main features of laying tiles is that the space between the tiles and the floor must be completely filled with adhesive. There shouldn't be any gaps. Therefore, this moment you should strictly control. Some experts intentionally put a few millimeters more glue on the tile, and then press it in. Due to these actions, excess glue comes out through the seam, which will be an indicator that the glue has completely filled the entire space.
So, according to the markup, apply the tiles to the floor. Press it moderately. Immediately lay a few more tiles. This will allow you to apply a level and align them on all sides of the plane. Lightly pressing down on the tile will cause the adhesive to come out of the seams. It should be removed immediately, as a special grout will be placed in the seams. To form the same seam, be sure to use crosses. When laying, the adhesive may get on the front side of the tile. It must be removed immediately with a damp sponge or soft cloth. If the adhesive is left on, it will dry out, and then there is a risk of damaging the flooring.
Important! A small gap of up to 20 mm must be left between the tile and the wall. This gap will serve as an expansion joint. When exposed to thermal energy, the surface can expand. For this reason, this gap should be carefully controlled.
When the floor surface is completely tiled, it is unacceptable to turn on underfloor heating. Tile adhesive must acquire the necessary hardness in natural conditions. This is the only way to achieve perfect quality. During the laying process, you will also need to trim the tiles; for this, a special tile cutter is used, it can be mechanical or automatic.
After the masonry is completed, when the tile adhesive has dried, it remains for you to grout the joints. For a warm floor, it is necessary to use a special grout that does not allow moisture to pass through. This will be an additional barrier to moisture penetration. When grouting joints, do not rush. It is extremely important to carefully fill all the seams so that there are no voids. When grouting is done, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the tile. But this should not be done immediately after grouting, because it can be washed all over. Wait a little while for the grout to set.
Advice! The resulting gap between the tile and the wall should not be filled with grout. This expansion joint should be filled with silicone sealant.
So, here we have considered all the features of how tiles are installed on underfloor heating. There are no special differences from ordinary masonry, however, there are small nuances. If you listen to the advice from the article, then you will be able to do quality coating on top of the warm floor. As a result, during the heating season you will enjoy the warmth and comfort indoors. We hope that this article has helped you figure out how to handle all the work yourself. In addition, we invite you to watch the prepared video material. It will help you consolidate all the provided theory from this article. And if you already had experience of similar work, then share it by leaving comments at the end of the article.
bouw.ru
Laying tiles on a warm floor requires certain knowledge and preparation. The technology is not particularly complicated, but there are certain points, non-observance of which will nullify all efforts and lead to damage to expensive material.
Before embarking on laying work, it is necessary to understand the specifics of each type of underfloor heating, what it consists of and what types it is. Such insulation of the house is not expensive and almost everyone can afford it.
First you need to decide which type of heating is the most suitable:
Types of underfloor heating
Electric underfloor heating is a multi-layer complex consisting of a heater, a heating element, a screed and a final coating. For the final layer, especially in the bathroom or kitchen, tiles are most suitable.
Depending on the heating element used, the electrical coating can be of the following types:
Types of electric underfloor heating
Each type has its own characteristics and characteristics. To determine the type of floor, the consumer most often starts from two aspects - the initial costs of its installation, subsequent operating costs.
Infrared heating is the most beneficial. At the initial stage, you will have to spend a little more than for the installation of other coatings, but subsequently the family budget is seriously saved when paying for electricity.
This coating is the least "capricious", suitable for any ceramic tile or laminate.
Installation of a water floor is very expensive, but it pays off with subsequent operation. Experts believe that such a coating is not very effective and unsafe.
For its installation, a set of pipes of a certain section is used. The principle is the same as for a central heating system. Only in this case heater It is not mounted on the wall, but on the floor. circulates through pipes hot water. They can be filled with a screed or a dry installation system can be applied, and then the final layer - ceramic tiles - can be placed.
Of course, it is better to entrust the laying of tiles to specialists, but this is associated with high financial costs. Therefore, with a certain preparation and study of the rules, this business will be within the power of everyone.
Before starting work, consider the following points:
Laying tiles begins only after the completion of all installation work and fixing elements. Actions are carried out in the following sequence:
Step by step tiling
Before starting work, you must carefully read the instructions for use adhesive composition. The main point is the drying time.
While the glue has not dried up, you can remove the curvature in the installation and pull out the cross. After it has completely dried, this will not be possible.
For professional work on your own you will need the following tools and materials:
Necessary tools for laying tiles
When buying tiles, add 15% to the surface area to be covered. Since part of the purchased volume will go to pruning or battle.
When choosing a grout color, it is worth starting from the tone of the tile. The grout should be slightly darker.
Until all the components are completely dry, it is absolutely impossible to turn on the floor heating system. It takes up to three weeks for complete drying.
Before you start laying the tiled layer, you need to make sure that the “warm floor” system is working. All wires and communications must be completely hidden.
Floor cement screed
Usually, a cement-sand screed is used to hide the elements. It should be smooth, even and completely dry.
Any contamination from the surface is removed, the irregularities are overwritten. The main thing is that the screed is filled in level, then laying the tiles will be much easier.
The screed must be covered with a deep penetration primer or concrete contact. It takes two hours to dry the compositions. Then the procedure should be repeated, this will ensure better adhesion of the tiles.
Do not carry out priming or tiling work immediately after checking the system. It must be turned off and wait for the surface to cool completely. Otherwise, the adhesive base will dry out and will not hold the top layer.
Before laying tiles, you need to mark the floor.
It is even worth drawing a layout. This is especially important when using multi-colored tiles or laying patterns, piping.
Tiling scheme
There are three main laying patterns:
In the first case, a large amount of material goes into residues. You can, in general, use squares of different sizes and lay them out in a run.
All this must be clearly marked on a piece of paper, where the layout scheme should be displayed in a reduced size.
Then the scheme is proportionally transferred to the floor. Beginners should completely mark the entire surface, with a bright selection of points. Marking is carried out using a chopping cord with paint or chalk.
The main thing is to determine the line of the first row. It is measured from the longest wall. Then the rest of the surface of the room is marked. This method is relevant for tiles without a pattern.
Tile laying options
For a tiled layer with a pattern, you need to draw not a horizontal, but a diagonal.
With the help of a long tape measure or rope, we connect the corners of the room diagonally. The point of intersection of the lines is the center of the room. It is from this place that the markup begins.
After marking is completed, it is worth laying out the tiles and checking how correctly the main lines are drawn.
The method of laying the tiles does not affect the functional features of the warm floor at all. Therefore, you can follow your individual preferences.
After marking and laying out the tiles in a dry way, you can proceed to the main work. It all starts with the preparation of tile adhesive.
For this you need:
Cooking rules are displayed in the instructions from the manufacturer. Strict adherence to it will ensure the receipt of a good adhesive substance. Do not mix the entire composition at once. It is better to do this in small portions, since after drying, it can no longer be used.
Preparing tile adhesive
The required amount of water is poured into the prepared container. The mixture is then added and mixed thoroughly. If you do the opposite, you get a large number of lumps that will be difficult to break. The finished glue has the consistency of thick sour cream.
A small amount of the mixture can be mixed manually using a conventional stick. This will take a longer time. It is better to use a drill, puncher or construction mixer.
The composition should not be liquid. This is checked as follows: you need to put a small amount of the prepared mass on the spatula and tilt it. If the mixture holds, does not run or drip, a quality adhesive is obtained.
After kneading, the mass should stand for 10-15 minutes. Then it mixes again. After that, the composition is ready for use.
After laying the tiles and its complete drying, the seams are processed. For this, a special moisture-resistant grout is purchased. It can be sold in the store already ready for use.
The mixture is applied to a rubber spatula, with which all joints are evenly filled. The grout should be slightly lower than the main tiled flooring, that is, do not protrude above the surface.
Scheme of the location and movement of the rubber spatula when grouting
Do not wait for the grout to dry completely. Not later than half an hour, excess stains must be washed off with warm water and a soft cloth. If you delay a little, the dirt will dry out and it will be very difficult to remove it.
Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands does not require any in-depth knowledge. You need some skill and free time.
Subsequently, you can get the perfect ceramic surface that will hold firmly on the warm floor for many years.
promzn.ru
Is it possible to install an electric underfloor heating without dismantling the tile and cover it with ceramic tiles?
Marina
Good afternoon, Marina!
Laying a new ceramic coating on top of an electric underfloor heating laid on an old tile is allowed. In this case, it is important to follow a few rules.
As you can see, the difficulty lies only in preparing the base of the floor. Nevertheless, if possible, it is better to remove the old tile, and lay a layer of thermal insulation in its place. This will prevent heat leakage into the ceiling and will reduce energy costs.
Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, as I try to do everything with my own hands.
aqua-rmnt.com
IN modern dwelling Underfloor heating is not a luxury, but an objective necessity. Especially if the family has small children. It creates coziness in the house and can help reduce heating costs.
Systems "Warm floor" according to the type of heating element are divided into water and electric. Each of them has both advantages and weak sides, analyzing which each person makes his choice.
Having decided on the type of heating, the owner of the house again finds himself in a dilemma - which type of flooring is more suitable for his new floor.
What is this article about
Of all the known coating options for underfloor heating, linoleum is the least suitable. After all, when heated, it becomes soft and can be easily deformed with the least mechanical impact. In addition, inexpensive types of linoleum have a large proportion of the synthetic component and can release toxic substances from heating.
It is acceptable to cover the TP with carpet. It is good to use laminate for these purposes, but when choosing it, you need to pay attention to the markings. Many grades of material have recently begun to indicate the permissible heating temperature.
The most suitable flooring in this case is ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and stone. This is because specified species materials have a high degree of thermal conductivity and thermal inertia, according to these indicators they are many times superior to all other types of flooring.
Before you figure out how to lay tiles on a warm floor, you should find out which of the above types is preferable for a home.
When choosing between ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and stone, it is worth analyzing them in different aspects. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, stone wins slightly, porcelain stoneware is in second place and tile is somewhat behind, since this characteristic depends on the porosity of the material - the higher the porosity, the lower the thermal conductivity. But the difference in performance is small.
Wear resistance in our case is not significant, because even the lowest indicator that ceramics has is sufficient for non-commercial premises. And if you compare the price, then ceramic tiles definitely win.
In any case, it is up to the customer to decide based on financial capabilities.
Depending on the type of floors, there are some differences in the technology of laying tiles. If you take into account all the possible nuances, then laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands will be within the power of every person, and not just a master tiler.
On a warm electric floor, mounted using infrared film, tiles can be laid in two ways:
In the first variant, a hydrobarrier should be placed on the heating film, then a GVL or LSU sheet. And on top of the sheets, tiles are already being laid. These materials are good because they have an ideal flat surface, so the tile lays down without flaws.
It is worth noting that this method is faster, because before laying the tiles, you do not have to wait for the screed to dry. But there are also disadvantages - a layer of sheets will prevent the floors from warming up, the process of heating the tile will be longer.
In the case of pouring a wet screed, the technological process is longer, but such installation will cost a little less. For greater strength, the screed should be reinforced. It is important to use for this not metal, but plastic mesh. The layer of concrete in this case can be small - about 5 mm, you can replace it with liquid tile adhesive. After the screed has dried, the tile is laid.
This type of underfloor heating is the easiest to install and does not require any special knowledge and skills. In addition, before laying the tiles, it is not necessary to make a sand-cement screed. The laid mat is covered with a thin layer of tile adhesive and the tile is laid.
This type of underfloor heating is rarely used in apartment buildings. The reason for this is the need to lay a rather thick cement-sand layer (4-5 cm) under the tile. As a result, the whole structure “steals” about 8 cm of the height of the room.
A water floor is more often used in private houses, since for its installation it is necessary to deepen the floors. This is due to the fact that the screed with this option requires at least 8 cm, plus the pipes themselves in the underfloor heating system add height. Thus, the floor can be raised by more than 10 cm. But this type of TP is the cheapest to operate, therefore it is quite popular.
The process of laying tiles on a warm water floor is the same as when laying it on ordinary floors. The only difference is that you need to apply glue to both the base and the back of the tile.
As can be seen from the information presented in the article, laying tiles on a warm floor is no more difficult than on a regular one. The main thing is to follow some simple rules:
izplitki.com
Conducting hidden wiring is not as difficult as it might seem. And today we will talk about exactly this, because it is the conduct of electrical wiring “closed” that is much more aesthetic and, accordingly, a popular way.
What is important: by installing hidden wiring, you save the interior of your own apartment. We will undertake to tell you how to conduct high-quality hidden electrical wiring in the walls in your home with our own efforts, without spending money on inviting an electrician.
Hidden wiring is a great option for major repairs or total replacement of wiring in the house.
The most tangible benefits are as follows:
However, there was a place for shortcomings. The most noticeable of them is some complexity of installation in comparison with open way(although it’s worth it), as well as the complexity, if necessary, of repair work. The reason for this, of course, is clear - in the event of any malfunction (for example, a wire break or burnout), the wall finish will have to be destroyed. But anyway, closed way wiring is much more reliable. So, we figured out the disadvantages and advantages - this means that you can get down to business.
Consider the procedure for laying electrical wiring using the example of a house with concrete or brick walls.
Creating a diagram involves drawing a special plan, which marks: the path of the power line, the location of sockets, switches, power boxes and lighting devices in each individual room. Such a scheme is also useful for calculating the volume of materials used. illustrative example For one-room apartment or at home:
This stage involves counting the number of switches, sockets, the required cable length and other network elements. It will also be necessary to perform to determine the diameter of the cores.
Under no circumstances should the calculation be neglected.- this is fraught with the fact that a too thin conductor will not cope with the load coming to it from powerful household appliances.
When the calculation is completed, select the necessary switches and sockets (for example, only waterproof product models are installed in the bathroom).
The minimum set of materials is as follows:
The minimum set of tools, in turn, looks like this:
When all the necessary set of tools and materials is ready, we proceed to chasing. To do this, special markings are applied to the walls, thanks to which you can conveniently navigate when making recesses. By the way, the procedure can be simplified by using a rope painted with chalk or a special marking cord.
When the markup is applied, we take the tool and use it to make grooves in the walls. If you have a grinder in your hands, you need to cut two parallel lines with a distance of 3-4 centimeters between them, after which it remains to gouge the strobe with a hammer and chisel. The depth of the groove depends on the cross section of the cable and is determined taking into account a small margin (it is associated with subsequent plastering).
Of course, the best device for wall chasing is a specialized tool, also known as a chasing cutter. The wall chaser will make recesses quickly and without extra hassle. The only catch is that the cost of the tool is quite high and it makes no sense to purchase it for a one-time use.
The last step of the gating stage is the creation of special recesses for sockets and junction boxes. A drill with a crown nozzle with a diameter of 6.8 centimeters will save here. And when the recesses are ready, we proceed to the installation. For reliability, socket boxes and boxes “sit down” on a gypsum mortar, which securely fastens the plastic to the concrete wall. At the same time, the edges of the products are placed flush with the surface - this will facilitate the procedure for decorating the walls in the future.
Next, we lay the line, placing the cable along the strobe. First, the conductor mode into segments of the length we need (for example, a segment from a distribution box to an outlet, and so on), leaving a margin for connecting the cores. Next, we fix the cable in strobes with gypsum mortar. When the work is done, it remains to make a hidden wiring call to check the correctness of the connections, as well as the overall health of the network. Are you sure everything is fine? So, you can safely putty the wall!
I would like to make a separate reservation regarding the use of corrugated tubes when laying the cable. The protective corrugation is intended to save the line from all kinds of detrimental mechanical loads, shocks and similar phenomena. However, the use of such material is a purely individual thing.
This concludes the hidden wiring in the house or apartment. We can make sure that there is nothing particularly difficult or incomprehensible in the procedure. The main thing is to be careful, as well as observe color coding wires when making connections. At the end, it remains to install sockets with switches, as well as protective automation in the shield (after which you can start installing chandeliers and arranging the premises).
We talked about wiring in concrete and brick walls. However, they did not mention the now common material - drywall, in which laying the cable is much easier. Easier because there is no need to perform gating.
The power line is drawn under the drywall sheets between the metal profiles:
When it is planned to install electrical wiring in a house from scratch, it often becomes a question of choosing a laying method. Everyone wants to do all this with a minimum of effort and as efficiently as possible.
In other articles on our site, we have already considered options for hidden and open wiring for different options. building materials. In this article, we will take a closer look at the rules for installing hidden wiring under a screed layer.
This option has recently become increasingly popular, because when replacing the screed, the rough work on wall chasing is significantly reduced.
Laying electrical wiring under the floor has its drawbacks. And in order to minimize them as much as possible, it is very important to properly plan the wiring and accurately determine the number of electrical points. After all, it will be almost impossible to make changes in the future.
So:
Based on the foregoing, let's look at the most common wiring scheme when laying it under the floor. In most cases, the method of using embedded socket boxes as distribution boxes is used.
And in order to minimize the disadvantages this method, it is very important to apply correct scheme wiring for each separate room.
Wiring on the floor has a number of limitations and in most cases depends on the material of the floors themselves. For wooden floors, they make the same requirements, and for embedding in a screed, they are somewhat lower.
We will first look at the general requirements and then for each of these cases.
So:
Note! Many videos on the Internet suggest using steel corrugation or even metal pipe, but these are unnecessary precautions. According to the norms of the PUE, a plastic corrugation is quite enough for this.
Note! Electrical wiring on the floor wooden house can also be made in a plastic corrugated pipe. But in this case, it should be covered on all sides with fireproof material. This is quite troublesome and time-consuming, so this method is used extremely rarely.
Now you know how to mount the wiring in the house under the floors with your own hands.
As you can see, this installation method has its own nuances and is far from always optimal. This is especially true for apartments and private one-story houses, although much here depends on each individual case and your wishes. But with a two-story private construction, this installation option can be very profitable. After all, it will allow you to place all the electrical network engineering In one place.
