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» DIY welding nozzle for a hair dryer. Soldering using a hair dryer and making attachments. What is a hair dryer

DIY welding nozzle for a hair dryer. Soldering using a hair dryer and making attachments. What is a hair dryer

A construction hairdryer is necessary to perform a number of finishing and other works. The need for a powerful professional device does not always arise. You can make an electrical appliance with your own hands, using an old household hairdryer, even a broken one.

What is a hair dryer

They call it a construction hairdryer professional tool, issuing hot air. The temperature maximum can reach 650 degrees. The device is equipped with attachments that help perform a number of specific operations:

  1. Heating and removing old paintwork.
  2. Heating and soldering of various plastic parts.
  3. Melting frozen compounds.
  4. Welding the film.
  5. Drying the surface after painting.
  6. Removing glue, linoleum and similar materials from the heated surface.
  7. Soldering metal parts.
  8. Bending plastic pipes.

A construction hairdryer, factory-made or made independently, is indispensable when carrying out construction and repair work.

With open pistol grip

Covered handle protects your hand from hot air

Design and design drawings

The design of a technical hair dryer differs little from household models used for drying hair. The main components of this unit are the housing, the heating element and the device with which the hot air is redirected to a given location.

Unlike other thermal appliances, there is no open flame in a hair dryer. This reduces the fire hazard of the device and eliminates the need to burn fuel. The device contains the following structural parts:

  1. Electric motor.
  2. A heating element.
  3. Fan.

Hot air comes out of the narrow nozzle of the unit, due to which a powerful directed jet is formed. The volume of air that the device produces per unit of time is its performance.

All major details shown

Modern construction hair dryers developed at industrial production, have several additional functions. Their number varies depending on the specific model:

  1. Controlling the force of hot air passing through the nozzle.
  2. Temperature adjustment. As you know, a regular household hair dryer produces up to 60 degrees. In powerful technical devices, this figure can reach 650–700 degrees, but such ultra-high temperatures are not always required.
  3. Select the mode in which the device will operate.

Diagram of a hair dryer using the example of a Makita product

Many modern models have built-in LED indicators, showing the heating temperature of the air stream. This allows you to control the operation of the device. Also construction hair dryer is equipped with a number of attachments, many of which can be made independently. They change the shape of the air stream depending on where the unit is used.

Tools and materials

Many amateurs with some knowledge in the field of electrical engineering can make a hair dryer themselves. Such a unit can hardly be called professional, but it is quite suitable for cleaning a door from dried paint.

Most often, a homemade hair dryer is based on a conventional device for drying hair. The body must be made of ceramic. All plastic parts are removed from it. If this procedure is not done, the wires may short out during operation with further melting of plastic particles and failure of the electronics. For the same reason, the use of a plastic case is not allowed: plastic does not withstand high temperatures.

Other materials you will need:

  1. Spiral nichrome wire needed to create a heating element.
  2. Metal plates. These are used to create the blades necessary for the operation of the ventilation system.
  3. Electrical cable. The wire cross-section is more than 4 millimeters, otherwise overload is possible.
  4. Rubber pipe. This small detail will provide thermal protection to the handle of a homemade hair dryer.
  5. Metal tip that forms an air stream.

How to make a hair dryer with your own hands

To make a construction electrical appliance from a regular hair dryer, it is necessary to modernize the device.

  1. First of all, you need to disassemble the case.
  2. After disassembling a household electrical appliance, it is necessary to remove all plastic parts that may melt under the influence of high temperatures. They can be replaced with products made of textolite and ebonite.
  3. The spent heating element is also removed. Instead, a ceramic part is installed on which a nichrome spiral is wound. The operating temperature of the device depends on the number of its turns. The denser they are, the more degrees the output will be. There are some features here:
    • Nichrome turns should not touch each other. Otherwise, a short circuit may occur during operation.
    • In household homemade devices Do not lay the coils too tightly: the electrician may not be able to withstand it.
  4. The easiest way is to make a heating element from the body of a powerful halogen lamp and a nichrome spiral. Lamp glass can withstand very high temperatures without any damage. The twisted wire is placed in a glass case.
  5. ends nichrome wire screwed to the transformer wire and insulated. The hairdryer is first switched to fan mode. Working with a soldering iron is excluded: the material from which the spiral is made cannot be soldered.

    All plastic parts are removed

  6. The finished heating element is wrapped in foil. Reflected radiation is created, increasing the power of the electrical appliance. In addition, heat loss from the heating element is minimized.
  7. As an alternative to the lamp body, you can use fiberglass wound over a nichrome spiral. A durable steel tube is placed on top, through which hot air will escape out.
  8. The heating element is placed in the body of a hair dryer and connected to a transformer. The device must be positioned exactly in the center. It is first wrapped in several layers of asbestos thread, which evenly increases its diameter.

    A part from an old computer will do

  9. A pre-prepared rubber tube is placed on the handle of the hair dryer. This prevents hand burns from touching hot ceramics. For this purpose, you can use an old corrugation from a vacuum cleaner, rubberized on the inside and made of fabric on the outside. This material will reliably protect the worker.

Creation video

Safety during production and operation

A construction hair dryer is a rather complex electrical appliance. Its production and further operation require compliance with a number of safety rules:

  1. It is unacceptable to use an electrical appliance, especially a homemade one, in conjunction with gas equipment. It is used with particular caution in kitchen area. At improper use and sparking, an explosion is possible.
  2. When carrying out any work with a construction hairdryer, it is necessary to prepare fire extinguishing means in advance.
  3. Do not place a hot electrical appliance on an unprotected surface: there is a risk of damaging the coating.
  4. If you plan to use a hair dryer to work with paint, you should equip an additional source of ventilation. Otherwise, the volatile components of the paint will spread through the air and have a negative impact on health.
  5. The finished construction hair dryer must be checked in operation. Initially, the device is turned on at a safe distance. Only when you are convinced of its normal operation (red-hot nichrome spiral, air intake and output), can you try it on a low-value product.

When working with any construction hair dryers, you need to remember one rule: first of all, the air supply is turned on, then the heat. Shutdown occurs in reverse order, otherwise overheating and melting of parts is possible.

Nozzle shapes

The area of ​​use of a construction hair dryer is determined by the shapes of the nozzles that are available. They are called nozzles, injectors or nozzles. Each product is intended for specific work:

  1. Flat nozzles are designed to remove remnants of old paint, wallpaper, and deformation of plastic sheets.
  2. Round nozzles allow you to process copper pipe.
  3. A reflector nozzle with a rounded bend is used for bending polymer pipes.
  4. Using special crevice nozzles, you can overlap PVC sheets.
  5. Side nozzles with built-in glass protection allow you to clean the window frame without overheating the glass.
  6. The cutting nozzle is made in the form of a flattened pipe. It is used for cutting foam plastic.
  7. Mirror nozzles are used for welding plastic parts.

Examples in the photo

Self-production

Most nozzles can be made independently from leftover chrome pipes. Let us take two forms as an example: tapering towards the exit and flat, in the form of a vacuum cleaner nozzle.

  1. We take two pieces of pipe of the required length (depending on the planned size of the nozzle).
  2. We make four small cuts on one of the cuts.
  3. Using a hacksaw for metal, we cut out isosceles triangles based on the cuts. We make a similar cut on the other side, resulting in an equilateral angle.

    All edges must be smooth

  4. The joined sides are welded to each other.
  5. If desired, you can clean up the weld. This is done to give the part a more aesthetic appearance.

    Part after grinding, ready for use

  6. We put it on the fan nozzle, if necessary, make two cuts (if the diameter of the pipe does not match the requirements of the hair dryer), we work.

To make a flat nozzle for a hair dryer, just tap one side of the pipe cut a little with a hammer. If necessary, cuts are made on the reverse part for more convenient contact with the nozzle of the electrical appliance.

To make it, just flatten a piece of pipe a little with a hammer

Making a hair dryer yourself is quite a complicated matter and requires skills in working with electrical appliances. If the basic requirements of the technology are not met, electrical failure may occur.

For dismantling and SMD mounting parts and also microcircuits made in SOP, QFP, PLCC packages, as was written in the first article, a regular soldering iron is not suitable. For these purposes, soldering stations are used, model PS-902, on the left, and SR-979, from Solomon, on the right, shown in the photographs. The station is equipped with a temperature controller, an air flow controller, an automatic static electricity removal function, and an automatic cooling system after turning off the power. The soldering station, in particular the SR-979, allows you to carry out soldering and suction without changing attachments. The stations consist of a main unit and soldering irons. Additionally, nozzles are supplied for different types of housings (15 varieties). The stations are designed for supply voltage: 220 volts 50 Hz. Adjustable temperature in the range 100C - 400C. That, in brief, is everything I wanted to say about the industrial soldering station. The dream of many radio amateurs and workshops, which until recently was a “Blue Dream” and now can be purchased in different models and at different prices.
Here are a set of photographs of the factory attachments. To enlarge a photo, just click on it with the mouse.

This article is not about the factory installation. Not everyone has the means, although the station pays for itself quickly with a large amount of work; many people just want to “construct” it, do it with their own hands. And even if such a setting is rarely used. So far there is no description anywhere for making a soldering station and attachments for it.
Here we will tell you, together with the author of homemade attachments, about making them yourself. “With your own hands,” it is said loudly, you will have to involve a turner-miller in the production, preferably, of course, someone you know. Yes, and you will have to solder the nozzles to the disks (not soldered in the photo) with a soldering iron, but it is better to contact a specialist refrigeration units. They solder the tubes with a special refractory silver-based solder. But it’s probably possible with copper, I’m not an expert in this. I don’t think it’s possible to weld very thin nozzle walls using gas welding or, especially, electric welding.
And so, the photographs show homemade nozzle with hairdryer.


What material is the cone nozzle and rings with milled holes?
-Everything is made of steel, and the guide nozzles are made of tin, some kind of tin plate, thickness 0.4mm. Later, when I have made all the attachments, I will give them to be plated with nickel; they will be no worse than the branded ones.
-Model of your hair dryer?
-We have these hair dryers on sale, they are not for construction purposes, but specifically for radio equipment. There are three types, the price is $10-12, they have a temperature regulator, a wheel, it’s simple, of course, but it’s better than nothing, in principle it will do.
-I think that you can use one conical nozzle and screw in different ring inserts. Just make the carving. Or without thread, but so that they fit tightly.
-It won’t work, during operation the nozzle gets very hot, and accordingly scale forms, it will be inconvenient to screw the bottom with the nozzles into this cone, and I also specifically tried to reduce the diameter of the cone so that the nozzle would be as narrow as possible, so that it would not interfere with its fields, i.e. The diameter of the lower part of the cone is as small as possible, see pictures.
-The thickness of the walls of the parts, indicate for all, the sizes of the nozzles and the distance between them for different nozzles. The diameter of the part that is screwed in, the thread pitch, in short, everything regarding dimensions.
-I took the dimensions from the original nozzles that come with the soldering stations, I sent a PDF, everything is indicated there, for different types of nozzles.
-How is the air temperature regulated? As far as I understand, there is no such possibility. Or the air supply speed of the hair dryer itself?
-The temperature is adjusted using a hairdryer, as I wrote above. I won’t remake this hair dryer for now, I’m starting to work out how to make another element for supplying hot air, more aesthetically pleasing and convenient.

That seems to be all for now. There will be additions, we will definitely add them and, if possible, describe them in more detail.

I give the dimensions of the factory nozzles.

Practicality and safety of using manual thermal equipment on electric power have been proven many times, but today we will not talk about it itself, but about additional devices and operations performed with their help.

Yes, yes, you understood everything correctly - today we will talk about what attachments exist for and how to use them.

Use of additional equipment

Depending on the purpose, there are several types of tools. Let's look at them in a little more detail.

Construction hair dryer with attachments

The first type is a wide nozzle. Used to heat and remove old paint from a wooden surface. Removal is carried out using a spatula or scraper included in the kit. Sometimes the nozzle also has a platinum in the form of a scraper, which can be used to remove old composition during the heating process. The advantage of the tool is that one hand of the worker remains free.

The second type is a ring with a mirrored rounded screen. Used with an upward jet of hot air to heat and bend plastic or copper pipes OK. The tool is also convenient if it becomes necessary to heat up and unscrew a heating or water supply pipe located fairly close to the wall, when there is no easy access from the back side.

Hair dryer attachments

The third type is round nozzles of various diameters. Used for spot heating of an object.

The fourth type is a nozzle flattened at the end, reminiscent of the tip of an electric soldering iron.. As an option, this attachment is used on a construction hair dryer for welding polypropylene or polyethylene. That is, sheets of the first or two films of the second are laid overlapping, then heated with a “sting” while simultaneously uniform motion hands along the entire length of the joint. Polyethylene can additionally be rolled with a roller.

Fifth type - nozzles for a construction hair dryer for rod welding. Used for sealing, e.g. plastic containers, details washing machines or connecting sheets of plastic when you need to get flat surface. Outwardly they resemble the previous type, but the tip is somewhat narrower and a tube is welded to it on top, through which the rod is fed.

Read more: Handheld pool vacuum cleaner - operating instructions

A small note. When soldering in this way, it is necessary to use rods made of the same plastic as the surface to be soldered. Otherwise, the connection of dissimilar materials will not last long, or worse, it will not “set” at all.


For a better understanding of how to perform this type of work, we show a video.

A technical or construction hair dryer is far from the last place in the tool kit. home handyman. Using a hairdryer you can easily remove old paint, dry the surfaces, defrost the water in the pipeline, give the plastic parts the desired shape. A hairdryer is indispensable when laying roofing felt - a hairdryer can be used to cut the roofing felt, heat it up, or melt it. A hairdryer is used when installing heat-shrinkable insulation, welding linoleum, and when soldering with tin or silver.

If you really want to, you can make a technical hair dryer with your own hands, but the problem may arise already at the first stage - what to make a reliable and safe case from. If there is a sufficient selection of hair dryers on sale, it is better to buy a ready-made hair dryer.

Be careful when working with a technical hair dryer. The hair dryer heats the air from 300 to 600 degrees. Protective gloves will save your hands. When paint softens with hot air, toxic substances are released. Wear a respirator with a carbon filter.

Use a technical hair dryer correctly, then it will serve you for a long time.

  • Do not overheat the hair dryer while working; take a break from working every 10-15 minutes.
  • The closer you hold the hair dryer to the surface being treated, the more it overheats.
  • Do not immediately turn on the hair dryer to maximum operating mode.
  • Before turning off your hairdryer, turn it to low heat to cool it down.
  • Hair dryer attachments get very hot, so don't place your hair dryer on surfaces you don't want to damage.
  • Do not change the attachment until it has cooled down - you may get severely burned.
  • When removing paint from window frame Unfasten the glazing beads and remove the glass. Glass can easily crack when exposed to a blast of air.
  • Be careful when cleaning old paint from the floor. Hot paint particles can fall between the floorboards and cause a fire.

DIY hair dryer repair

All electric tools tend to break. If there are minor problems, you can repair the hair dryer yourself. The main working parts of a hair dryer are a heating coil, a fan, and an electric motor.

  • Try to find the cause of the problem. Perhaps the power cord is broken, or the wires are burnt, or the coil is burnt out.
  • Arm yourself with a screwdriver, soldering iron, find the hair dryer diagram, which is in the instructions for working with the hair dryer.
  • Prepare the surface on which you will disassemble the tool.
  • Remember in what order you disassemble the hair dryer. It is very good to use a camera to photograph all stages of disassembly. This will help you not to rack your brains over where to place the extra parts left after assembly.
  • Start by checking the plug, power cord, and contacts. Replacing the cord, buttons or soldering wires is not difficult if you have certain skills.
  • If the motor or fan breaks down, it is better to take the hair dryer to a workshop.

Nozzles for technical hair dryer

For ease of use, there are special attachments for a technical hair dryer. The nozzles are made of steel and can withstand high temperatures.

Also included in the sales kit are devices that will help remove paint from hard to reach places.

There are nozzles for welding, soldering and heat shrinking of pipes. A reflective nozzle is suitable for soldering thin pipes.

To heat and bend a plastic pipe, use reflex nozzles.

A wide flat nozzle works well for removing old paint from a surface. The protective and reducing nozzles are used to remove paint from the window - they help direct the air stream into Right place and protect the glass from overheating.

How to remove old paint

There are many options for removing old varnishes and paints. chemicals. The composition is applied to the surface to be treated, after the paint has softened, it is removed with a spatula. The disadvantages of this method include a pungent odor. chemical composition, the inability to properly remove paint from large areas. Old paint is difficult to remove even with advertised chemical paint removers.

The surface can be cleaned mechanically using grinder or a grinder with special attachments.

Removing old paint using a hair dryer is more practical and convenient compared to other methods of cleaning surfaces.

For work you will need

  • technical hair dryer
  • extension
  • hair dryer attachments
  • spatula and special tools for scraping paint
  • brush
  • protective equipment - gloves, respirator

Don't hold the hair dryer too close to the surface. Warm up from a distance of 5-10 cm small areas. When the paint begins to bubble, it must be removed with a spatula. A spatula, unlike a spatula, is more rigid and is more convenient for removing peeling paint. You can take a narrow spatula.

Do not heat a large surface at once. For ease of use, take an extension cord. WITH wooden surfaces paint is removed more easily than from metal or plastered and painted ones. Ventilate the room often.
Hold the hair dryer by the handle and do not cover the air intake holes with your hand - it can quickly overheat. When removing paint from a window, it is better to remove the frame - it’s more convenient to work and it’s easier to get to hard-to-reach places on the window block.

IN right hand hold the hair dryer, directing the air flow to the desired location. When the paint begins to swell and bubble, use your left hand to immediately remove the softened paint using a spatula.

Use a brush to remove small frozen pieces of paint.

Nozzles for a construction hair dryer. Expanding the possibilities! Execution of many types construction work For quite some time now, it has not been possible to do without the use of the functions of forced hot air flow. These characteristics are increasingly required in applications the latest materials high degree of efficiency in modern construction technologies. It is for this reason that the use of a hair dryer has become so relevant. With just one functionality, a hair dryer can solve dozens of problems - from standard drying of products to welding linoleum. Carrying out such a variety of work became possible only thanks to the existence of a whole range of attachments for a construction hair dryer.

Modern types of nozzles for a hair dryer Often, the construction hair dryer comes with one to several specialized attachments for carrying out various types works They can also be called nozzles, nozzles or nozzles. Some of them are quite often very individual (designed for specific work) and are sold only separately from the tool, so when purchasing a construction hair dryer, you should be prepared for additional purchases. This is especially true when purchasing certain models. professional level, quite different high cost. Availability more attachments makes it possible to perform many more types and volumes of work with different types materials. It is the nozzles that are able to form the necessary air flow in a certain way, which allows you to significantly expand the standard capabilities.

In the existing list of the most common construction market nozzles include: round focusing nozzle (1) - most often designed for sealing cracks of various thicknesses using special plastic welding tapes. The nozzle is used for soldering copper pipes based on the non-contact method of processing materials, as well as for repairing skis, veneer, boats, etc.; flat nozzle (2) – used when it is necessary to remove old putty or residues colorful materials, films, wallpaper, including for the purpose of deforming polystyrene boards (under the supervision of a specialist), PVC structures and plastic products. For example, if polystyrene or plexiglass plates were deformed; reflex nozzle (3) – warms up plastic pipes before their further deformation; crevice or spline nozzles (4) – used for PVC welding products using the cap method; carved (cutting) attachments (5) – a similar attachment was once developed for performing figured or straight cutting of foam plastic; glass protective nozzle (6) – this nozzle is designed to work with surfaces that cannot withstand high temperatures (for example, glass and various products made from it). The glass-protective nozzle for a hair dryer allows you to remove residues of varnish, paint or putty from surfaces; welded mirror (7) – used when processing joints of products using the contact welding method of various plastic materials; a wide-spray nozzle is one of the types of flat nozzles that are used to remove paint from large areas; gear nozzle - considered an adapter for carved or slotted nozzles. In addition, the gear nozzle can be safely used for spot welding; welding nozzle - the purpose of this nozzle is to directly connect synthetic type welding cables. As a rule, the most common among users are wide-jet, reflex, flat, cutting, focusing and spline nozzles.

Due to the fact that the attachments are made of metals that have a thin structure and which can heat up very strongly and quickly during use, it is important to remember that the hair dryer must be allowed to cool after finishing use. A hot nozzle can cause damage or spoil the material being processed. Therefore, when working with a hair dryer, you should use a special metal stand. Do-it-yourself nozzle for a construction hair dryer The average price in stores for nozzles ranges from 298 rubles. up to 2000 rub. However, if desired, each master can make some types of attachments with my own hands. For this, even pieces of chrome pipe with the required diameter suitable for a construction hair dryer can be useful. To create a nozzle-shaped nozzle, you will need to make 4 identical cuts on the pipe and cut out right triangles from all sides, then bend all the resulting parts inward, as in the pictures.